Lost Chicken Hill & Mount Fairplay, Alaska (8-19-19)

Day 15 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

2:31 AM, 30 ºF, Taylor Highway 0.5 mile SSW of Steele Creek Dome – Cold.  And deathly quiet.  Like a frozen zombie eye, a pale three-quarter moon stared down from space.  A faint glow betrayed the sun’s position far to the N as it snuck along well below the horizon.  Otherwise still a very dark night.  Sniffing intensely, Lupe wove in and out among the bushes along the edge of the big dirt pullout.

10 minutes ago the Carolina Dog had suddenly burst into a frenzied barking spree.  No sign out here now of whatever she’d detected.  Might have been anything.  SPHP never saw it.  Perhaps best that whatever it was had vanished?  As soon as the American Dingo calmed down a bit, SPHP persuaded her to retreat back into the G6.

9:23 AM, still SSW of Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.) –  Ugh!  Overslept!  The sun had been up for hours!  Hardly mattered.  If the weather held, Lupe still had time enough to complete her adventures along the Taylor Highway today.  SPHP straightened out the G6, and the American Dingo was on her way.

First stop was at the South Fork Wayside, right after crossing the bridge over the Forty Mile River.  Lupe explored the forest looking for squirrels, while SPHP heated up a can of beef stew for brunch.  The brown waters of the South Fork of the Forty Mile River were much lower than they had been a year ago.  Loop waded in for a drink.

Near the S Fork Wayside picnic gazebo.
South Fork of the Forty Mile River.

12:53 PM, 50 ºF, Mosquito Fork Dredge trailhead near Chicken, Alaska – The next stop offered a choice of adventures.  A mile or two before reaching Chicken, SPHP parked the G6 at the Mosquito Fork Dredge trailhead.  A nice-looking trail disappeared into the forest on its way to an overlook where an old gold mining dredge would be visible down on the Mosquito Fork of the Forty Mile River.

Truth is, peakbagging Carolina Dogs aren’t much into mining or dredges, and while forks are sometimes useful, SPHP isn’t keen on mosquitoes.  Right across the Taylor Highway was a better option.  Lupe could climb Lost Chicken Hill (2,150 ft.)!

Oh, let’s do that instead, SPHP!  I’ll find that lost chicken!  It’ll be wings and drumsticks for dinner tonight!

Heavily forested Lost Chicken Hill wasn’t much of a climb, a mere 80 feet of elevation gain or so from the trailhead, if that.  Nevertheless, Lupe was enthused by the thought of hunting down that lost chicken.  If she could also claim a trivial Alaskan peakbagging success as well, so much the better!  After crossing the highway, she passed through a big opening carved into the S end of Lost Chicken Hill and headed up into the forest.

Starting for Lost Chicken Hill right across the Taylor Highway from the Mosquito Fork Dredge trailhead. Photo looks NE.
Loopster’s search for the lost chicken begins!

The dense forest was littered with small diameter deadfall, the forest floor thick with soft, spongy moss.  Gently rounded Lost Chicken Hill was an easy climb.  Before long, Lupe arrived at a large flat region that had to be the summit.  The American Dingo prowled this way and that, but the lost chicken did not appear, and no single spot stood out as the absolute highest point.

This seems to be about the top, but no sign of the lost chicken yet!

Lupe sniffed and searched everywhere!  She found bright red berries, she came to a variety of mushrooms and fungi, but the famous lost chicken was nowhere to be seen.

Red berries were common on Lost Chicken Hill.
A big brown mushroom.
More mushrooms among the spongy moss.
A particularly colorful fungi.
Puzzling over which way the lost chicken might have gone.

I thought this would be a snap.  How long has this chicken been missing, anyway, SPHP?

Not exactly sure, Looper.  Probably since the gold rush days.  1880’s?  1890’s?  Something like that.

So the chicken was here 130 years ago?  No wonder I can’t pick up a scent!

Yeah, I’m really not that surprised, to tell you the truth.

The Carolina Dog pondered the situation.

The chicken can’t be too spry now, SPHP, but might have wandered quite a long way in 130 years.  The trail is stone cold.  Even if we find this chicken, it’s apt to be scrawny and tough.  We should have gotten here sooner.

No doubt you’re right, Loop.  Don’t worry about it.  My bad.  I shouldn’t have overslept.

With no chickens and no views, there didn’t seem to be much point in lingering up on Lost Chicken Hill.  What the heck, Lupe had plenty of Alpo and Taste of the Wild to eat, anyway!  Might as well return to the G6, and carry on.  Even so, the Carolina Dog didn’t give up entirely.  The whole way back she kept sniffing and exploring, just in case.

The only chickens she found, though, were the big metal ones stationed in the village of Chicken, when SPHP stopped for a quick look around.

You can’t fool me, SPHP! These chickens aren’t even real!

Lost Chicken Hill had been a fun romp, but only a warm-up exercise.  The big prize of the day was still ahead – a favorite peak, one that Lupe had been to in both 2017 and 2018 – Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.)!

Lupe had seen Mount Fairplay on the horizon from Steele Creek Dome yesterday evening.  Stopping briefly at the Mount Fairplay Wayside 30 miles S of Chicken, the mountain was now only a few miles away.

At the Mount Fairplay Wayside, MP 35 of the Taylor Highway.
Mount Fairplay (Center) from the wayside. Photo looks SE.

Mid-afternoon already, but a decent day.  This was Lupe’s big chance to visit the top of Mount Fairplay for a third time.  2,000 feet of elevation gain from the highway, but a fun and easy climb.

3:06 PM, 50 ºF, Taylor Highway pullout at MP 32.8 – Quite a few clouds around, but patches of blue sky, too.  Lupe crossed the Taylor Highway and started up an embankment on the other side.  Experience gained during her prior ascents from this same starting point would come in handy now.  The first goal was to get up on the lower end of the broad ridge leading SE toward the big saddle S of the summit.

Mount Fairplay (Center) from the pullout at Taylor Highway MP 32.8. Photo looks ESE.

The broad ridge wasn’t far from the highway, or much of a climb, but this first zone was full of small trees and dense stands of large bushes.  Instead of heading E straight for the ridge as she had done before, Lupe angled NE (L) taking a slightly longer route hoping to avoid the worst of the bushes.

This manuever should have worked.  The bushes weren’t nearly as bad this way.  Less thrashing about for SPHP ought to have saved some time, but another obstacle presented itself.  Blueberries!  The slope leading up to the ridge was full of luscious, ripe, wild blueberries.  No problem for the American Dingo, but SPHP was quickly hooked.

Are you coming, or not, SPHP?  The bushes would have been faster!  We’ll never get there at this pace!

Sorry, Loop, but wild blueberries are sooo scrumptious!  Just a few more, and I’ll be right with you.

Part of the blueberry trap.

Inexplicably, a few more turned out to be quite a few more.  Lots more, in fact, but Lupe finally did make it up onto the broad ridge.  Although blueberries were up here, too, there weren’t as many.  Overall there was far less vegetation.  The long slope leading SE toward the big saddle was now in view.

Finally up on the lower part of the broad ridge. Photo looks WNW.
The long slope higher ahead. Photo looks SE.

Staying farther NE than during her prior ascents, Lupe headed for the big saddle more than a mile away.  The slope gradually became rockier as she climbed.

Looking NW back down the slope.
Entering rockier terrain. Photo looks SE.

It was a little earlier in the year this time around.  The tundra was just beginning to change to fall colors.

The tundra wasn’t quite as colorful yet as on Lupe’s earlier ascents.
Gazing along the W flank of Mount Fairplay. Photo looks SSW.
Making progress. Photo looks SE.
Typical appearance of the lichen-covered rocks.

Before Lupe reached the start of the steeper climb up to the big saddle, she came to a broad expanse of grassy tundra.  In prior years, this area had been boggy, full of tiny trickling streams and numerous waterholes.  Now, however, the ground was noticeably drier.  Hardly any streams, and fewer waterholes.  Lupe stayed on or near the rocks as long as she could before entering the wetlands.

Approaching the boggy region. Photo looks SE.
Near the end of the rocks. The saddle beyond Lupe is the pass between HP5120 (L) and Mount Fairplay’s summit (R). Photo looks NE.
Close to a waterhole. HP5120 (R of Center) in the background. Photo looks NNE.

With less sogginess to avoid, getting to the base of the steeper climb was easier than ever before.  Here the terrain became rocky again.  In short order, Loopster was scrambling higher.

Above the boggy area. Photo looks SE.
So far, so good! Gets quite a bit steeper from here on, though!
Scrambling higher.

After a good scramble, Loop reached an area with more vegetation again above the steepest part.  She still hadn’t made it up to the big saddle SSW of the summit.

Near the end of the steepest section. Photo looks SSE.
Easier now, but still below the big saddle SSW of the summit. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe never did get to the big saddle.  Instead, the Carolina Dog turned NE heading almost directly for the summit.  This was a steeper, shorter route than she’d ever taken before.  Lanes of tundra provided paths of least resistance between rivers of rock.

Heading for the summit (L). Photo looks NE.
Glancing back at the big saddle on the S ridge after bypassing it. Photo looks S.

The final climb was rocky and moderately steep.  Following faint paths, it wasn’t long before Lupe was approaching the summit.

Still a little way to go. Photo looks NNE.
Getting close to the top. Photo looks N.

Towers, sheds, and wires came into view.  Moments later, Lupe was among them.  A big brown shed was close to where she’d come up.  Loop headed for a small wall of rock a bit NE of it.  This little rock wall still looked like the marginally highest point on the mountain.

The towers on Mount Fairplay come into sight. Photo looks NNE.
3rd annual appearance at the true summit of Mount Fairplay! Photo looks NW.

The top of Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) looked pretty much the same as before.  The same towers and sheds were grouped near the S end and along the W side of the big, rough, but otherwise almost flat summit area.  However, there was one important difference.  Lupe was sad to learn that the very entertaining squirrel that had been up here in 2018 was gone!  Not completely unexpected.  What had possessed a squirrel to traipse all the way up here more than 1,500 feet above any tree or bush had always been a mystery in the first place.

The entire summit was roughly 300 feet long N/S and 100 feet wide E/W.  Lupe’s reconnaissance started with the big rocks at the S end.

Looking down the S ridge. Photo looks SSW.
Near the E edge still looking down the S ridge. Photo looks SSW.
Same spot, but showing more of the S end of the summit region. Photo looks SW.

After enjoying the views to the S, Loop headed N along the E edge.  She got all the way to the N end, and again found the survey marker where SPHP had first learned the name of this mountain back in 2017.

At the survey marker near the N end of the summit region.
Survey marker No. 2.

An arrow on Survey marker No. 2 pointed S toward a wall of loose rock partially enclosing a shallow human-created depression several feet in diameter.  Going over for her annual check, Lupe still did not see any other survey marker, in or out of the pit.  Survey marker No. 2 was the only one she had ever found on Mount Fairplay, and that’s the way things stayed.

On the rough circular wall by the pit (L of Lupe) survey marker No. 2 points toward. Photo looks SSW.

Time for a break.  At the N end, not far from survey marker No. 2, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap.  The sky had clouded up completely, a nearly uniform indistinct gray, long before the Carolina Dog had reached the summit.  Evening now, and quite cool, about 40 ºF with a 5-10 mph breeze out of the SW.

The clouds were fairly high, but the air below was hazy.  Looking down Mount Fairplay’s broad N slope, rows of yellow-brown hills and ridges faded into oblivion.  The American Dingo could see for miles, but not sharply, details concealed by the horizon-devouring haze.

Gazing down Mount Fairplay’s N slope. Photo looks N.

Three ascents of this overgrown E Alaska hill!  Hard to believe it, but Loopster really was back.  It all seemed so familiar, yet still incredibly remote.  The scene was duller, more somber and serious than before.  Not even that peakbagging squirrel to break the solitude.  Refuge in the sky, Mount Fairplay stood besieged by a vast, empty unknown.

Lupe got hungry.  Taste of the Wild was provided.  Ahh, so much better!  Energy came surging back.  The were-puppy appeared, growling and threatening, and succeeded in snatching away SPHP’s glove.

The glove-snatching were-puppy of Mount Fairplay.

Hey, give that back!

Keep-away is a delightful game, one the were-puppy knew it would win.  Not until SPHP was sufficiently humiliated did the glove lose its strange fascination.  Abandoned among the rocks, SPHP finally retrieved it.

Well, thank you so much!  Since you’re so perky, why don’t we take a stroll around the whole summit?

The were-puppy was fine with that.

The Taylor Highway from the W edge. The gently rounded yellow slope seen beyond Lupe is the broad ridge she had come up from R to L. Photo looks W.
View to the NW. The closest hill is HP5120 (R of Center).
In the area that was Lupe’s approach to the summit. Photo looks SW.
At the S end again overlooking the big saddle along the S ridge. Photo looks SSW.
Along the E edge. Photo looks NE.

After a leisurely counter-clockwise circumnavigation, Lupe was back where she’d started.  SPHP proposed lingering a while longer at the NW end.  A bit gloomy up here, but Mount Fairplay was so fabulous!  The weather wasn’t threatening, and the sun, though sinking, still gleamed among the clouds.

The summit as seen from the NW end. Photo looks S.
The distant gleam to the W.

What are you staring at, SPHP?  You going to stand there forever?

No.  It’s just incredible to be here again, Loop.  Enjoying, that’s all.

Still enough daylight to try something different, if we get on with it, isn’t there?

Maybe, what do you have in mind?

Let’s go down the N slope this time.  Looks easy enough, and we’ve never been that way before.

Come on! Let’s try the N slope! Photo looks NNE.

Last year, Lupe had explored part of the S ridge beyond the big saddle on what turned out to be a gorgeous evening spent roaming the blazing, brilliant tundra.  Wasn’t going to be like that today, but the Carolina Dog was right.  Although longer than going back the way she had come up, the N slope appeared perfectly feasible.  Ought to be able to reach the highway before dark.  Why not?

I like it!  Go for it, Looper.  I’ll be right behind you!

An hour and twenty minutes after reaching the top of Mount Fairplay, Lupe charged far down the N slope, greatly outdistancing SPHP.  She soon dashed back to encourage SPHP to hurry.  Some places it was rocky enough to slow things down quite a bit, but most of the way even SPHP set a fairly lively pace on the long downhill trek.

Exploring a new route took some of the sadness out of leaving Mount Fairplay behind.

Already partway down the N slope, Lupe returns to check on SPHP. Photo looks NNE.
Overlooking the saddle region (Center) between HP5120 (straight up from Lupe’s head), and Mount Fairplay’s N ridge (R). Photo looks N.

0.33 mile down the N ridge, Lupe turned NW descending into the broad saddle region leading to subpeak HP5120.  The saddle proved boggy, so she crossed it at the highest, driest part along the NE edge.

A glance back up the N ridge during the descent. Photo looks S.
About to drop down to the saddle leading to HP5120 on the other side. Lupe crossed this saddle at far R, then traveled along the base of HP5120 aiming for the little pass seen on the L. Photo looks NW.
Mount Fairplay from the saddle. Photo looks SSE.

Once across the saddle, it wouldn’t have been too difficult to go right up and over HP5120, but doing that seemed an unnecessary expenditure of precious energy.  Instead, Looper turned SW along the base of HP5120, angling slowly higher toward a minor pass.

In the small pass at the S end of HP5120. Mount Fairplay (L). Photo looks S.

Going through the pass, Lupe came to a steep, scree-covered slope.  The small rocks were loose, and often gave way underpaw.  A series of faint animal trails provided better support.

Traversing the W slope of HP5120. Photo looks NW.

The animal trails were fun to follow, and got Lupe all the way around HP5120 down to a lower part of Mount Fairplay’s NW ridge.  Ahead, a long level stretch led to a much smaller hill.  Approaching the top, a pole came into view.  Lupe soon reached a small solar-powered installation, perhaps a weather station?

The solar-powered station on the NW ridge. A little slice of Mount Fairplay’s summit (straight up from Lupe) peeks up from behind HP5120 (Center). Photo looks SSE.

All downhill from here!  From the solar-powered station, the NW ridge sloped steadily down to the Taylor Highway.  Still quite a trek, but an easy one practically all the way.

Looking down the NW ridge from close to the solar-powered station. Photo looks NW.
The big, rounded ridges of Mount Fairplay’s W slopes. Lupe had gone up the next one over. Photo looks SSW.
Solar station hill (L), HP5120 (Center), Mount Fairplay summit (R of Center). Photo looks SE.
Mount Fairplay (L of Center) from well down the NW ridge. Photo looks SE.

The only tricky part came at the end.  Leaving the NW ridge, the terrain steepened as Lupe turned W searching for a way down through forest and dense bushes.

It all worked out!  Without getting SPHP too tangled in vegetation, Lupe managed to reach the Taylor Highway.  Only an easy 0.5 mile stroll back to the G6 remained.

As she trotted along, the sky was clearing off to the N.  Two years ago, the Carolina Dog had seen the Northern Lights for the first time from the pullout at MP 32.8 W of Mount Fairplay where she’d be staying tonight.  Maybe she’d get lucky again!  (End 9:38 PM, 44 ºF)

Mount Fairplay, Alaska from the Taylor Highway after Lupe’s 3rd ascent, 8-19-19

Links:

Next Adventure                    Prior Adventure

Mount Fairplay near Chicken, Alaska (8-25-18)

Mount Fairplay & Chicken, Alaska to the Top of the World Highway & Dawson City, Yukon Territory (9-2-17 & 9-3-17)

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Mount Fairplay near Chicken, Alaska (8-25-18)

Day 22 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

9:11 AM, 38°F – Fog and light mist!  So, what else was new?  The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was leaving the Yukon, and heading for Alaska!  The border was only a couple of km W, and ought to be open by now.  A vehicle heading E on the Top of the World Highway confirmed it.  Someone had made it through.  Onward!

9:52 AM, 39°F – Lupe had made it into Alaska!  She’d breezed right on through customs, but hadn’t gone much farther.  The plan was to keep doing domes today.  In this weather, Loop seemed destined to continue yesterday’s foggy, soggy doggie escapades along the Top of the World Highway.  The G6 was parked only a short distance NE of Davis Dome (4,124 ft.), a mere mile or two W of customs.

However, the doing domes plan was off to a poor start.  Davis Dome ought to have been an easy climb.  The summit was only 0.25 mile away, and something like 300 feet higher, a situation similar to the one at Swede Dome (4,150 ft.) yesterday, but no sooner had Lupe reached the pullout near Davis Dome than the light mist turned to constant rain.  The fog was so thick, not even the closest part of Davis Dome was in sight.

Mist was one thing, rain and dense fog was another.  No sense in getting totally soaking wet to start off the day, just to see nothing at all.  Lupe and SPHP waited for a while, but the rain wouldn’t quit, and Davis Dome didn’t appear.  May as well forget it, and move on!  However, conditions were the same when Lupe reached Jack Wade Junction S of Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.).  This time she didn’t wait around.

12:59 PM, 45°F – After crossing a bridge over the South Fork of the Fortymile River, SPHP turned into a rest area on the R (N) where there were a few picnic tables.  Not foggy down here, and the rain had finally ended a couple of miles back.  Lupe and SPHP took a short walk along the river.  The South Fork was brown with sediment and running high.  Hardly surprising, considering how seldom Loop had seen the sun on this Dingo Vacation.

The South Fork of the Fortymile River is 6 or 7 miles E of Chicken, Alaska.

SPHP prepared a quick lunch at one of the picnic tables.  Looper’s joy at being released from the G6 turned to ecstasy upon discovering a squirrel in a nearby tree.  Lunch became a shrill, noisy event.

Although doing domes had been at least a partial success yesterday, the domes had been a complete flop this morning.  Lupe was beyond them now.  The weather had finally improved, though.  Loop could go back to see if conditions had changed back at the domes, but that didn’t make much sense.  If it was going to turn into a decent day, she had a much better option ahead.  Chicken, Alaska was only 6 or 7 miles farther, and 34 miles S of Chicken a fabulous peak was right along the highway.

Lupe and SPHP had discovered Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) entirely by accident while coming the opposite direction in 2017.  First seen from afar, Mount Fairplay looked like merely a barren hill, but a very high one sitting off by itself in grand isolation.  Unaware of its existence prior to catching sight of it, SPHP had been instantly impressed.  Lupe could climb that!  And the American Dingo had, too, when it turned out that the Taylor Highway (Hwy 5) went right by it.

With over 3,000 feet of prominence, Mount Fairplay is the dominant high point of a large region.  The climb from a highway pullout W of the summit involves a tad more than 2,000 feet of elevation gain.  No trail, but the trek isn’t particularly difficult, not even much of a scramble.  Lupe had such a good time last year, and the whole experience had been so magnificent, that a return to Mount Fairplay was high on the wish list for this Dingo Vacation.

1:41 PM, 50°F, Chicken, Alaska – Loop had been reluctant to leave the wonderful squirrel back at the South Fork of the Fortymile River, but SPHP had left her little choice.  The promised chickens at Chicken, Alaska were big and colorful enough, but in the Carolina Dog’s opinion completely lacking in the feisty pizazz that the squirrel had exhibited.

Chicken, Alaska at MP 66.9 of the Taylor Highway, is about the only place to get fuel or supplies between the Alaska Highway SE of Tok, Alaska and Dawson City in the Yukon.
Chickens are fine, I suppose, but I’d rather be at Squirrel, Alaska.

The sky was still overcast.  The ground was wet here, indicating it had rained recently (of course), sadly dampening SPHP’s expectations for Mount Fairplay.  Nevertheless, after checking out the chickens, Lupe hit the road again.

2:40 PM, 46°F – Fantastic!  Not a drop of rain on the way from Chicken to the pullout just S of MP 33 along the Taylor Highway.  In fact, although the summit of Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) was in the clouds as Lupe set out, a fair amount of blue sky elsewhere was quite encouraging.

The first task was to get through a large zone of tall bushes on the slope immediately E of the highway.  Lupe had a great time exploring, while SPHP thrashed around looking for the easiest route up onto a broad, open ridge above.

The bushes were wet.  So were Loop and SPHP by the time open terrain was reached.  At least there was some sunshine to help dry off a bit.

On the ridge above the bushes. Thoroughly soaked, but in sunshine and high spirits!
Approaching the tundra-covered part of the ridge. Mount Fairplay (L) in the clouds. Photo looks SE.

Once up on the open terrain, Lupe turned SE following the broad ridge higher.  This ridge is the longest part of the journey up Mount Fairplay.  At first, spongy tundra, low bushes, and scattered rocks predominated.  Lupe already had some great views, but was having way to much fun roaming and sniffing to pay them any attention.

On the way up the lower portion of the broad ridge. Lupe would head toward the L side of the high saddle beyond her. The summit of Mount Fairplay (Center) is nearly out of the clouds now. Photo looks SE.
Above the bushes with beautiful views. Photo looks S.

For a while, the summit of Mount Fairplay basked in sunshine.  Lupe made steady progress up the long slope, which slowly steepened.  The tundra was gorgeous and optimism prevailed.

For a while, Mount Fairplay basked in sunshine. Photo looks SE.

As Lupe gained elevation, she started coming to channels full of dark rocks encrusted with pale green lichens.  The rocks were a jumble, but at times SPHP could make better progress on the rocks than trying to deal with the soft tundra.

Channels of dark rocks appeared with increasing frequency. Photo looks SSE.

The tundra was somewhat boggy the entire way up the long slope.  Near the start of the steeper climb up to the saddle S of the summit, the tundra actually became wetter.  Streams trickled among the vegetation.  Lupe came to holes full of water.  Choosing routes carefully, SPHP tried to avoid the wettest areas.

Getting close to the start of the steeper climb. Photo looks ENE.
Loop in one of many waterholes hidden in the tundra.
After traveling the long slope, the next phase of the journey was an ascent of the saddle ridge beyond Lupe. Photo looks E.

Once Lupe reached the rocks at the base of the huge saddle ridge, she was beyond all the wetlands.  The climb became considerably steeper now.  The Carolina Dog scrambled up rock-strewn slopes.  She followed lanes of vegetation.  The higher she went, the sparser and drabber the vegetation became, but the tundra never disappeared entirely.

Hey look, SPHP! We’re almost to the saddle already. ….. Uh, not really, Looper. It’s a false summit. Still a long way to go yet!
The views kept improving. Photo looks SW.
Beauty underpaw.
Higher up, it was a much rockier world. The tundra became drier, drabber, and sparse. Photo looks NE.

The saddle S of the summit was another broad ridge, mostly rocky and fairly flat.  At the S end sat a prominent rock formation.  Lupe turned N toward the summit.  The final climb was no more difficult than getting up onto the saddle had been.  Soon Lupe was nearing the same towers she had seen on Mount Fairplay in 2017.

Mount Fairplay’s S ridge. This is the saddle that Lupe had been climbing toward. Photo looks SSW.
On the final ascent. Photo looks N.
Almost there! Photo looks NNW.

To SPHP, it seemed sort of incredible that Lupe had actually returned to the summit of Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.), yet here she was again!  The mountain had become an old friend.  The summit was just as it had been a year ago, an oblong shaped area covered with dark rock, towers, and associated equipment.

At first, it was often sunny, but chilly, with a W wind driving clouds and showers this way.  SPHP layered up, and even put on gloves.  Ignoring the approaching clouds for the time being, Lupe and SPHP took a tour of the summit area.  The entire summit was several hundred feet long, and no more than half as wide.

Loop at the S end of the summit area, but E of where she’d come up. Photo looks S.
On the highest rocks, which were toward the S end. Photo looks NNW.
Most of the S half of the summit. Photo looks S.
At the N edge. Photo looks NNE.
This survey benchmark is toward the N end of the summit area. SPHP hadn’t even known the name of the mountain until Lupe came across this benchmark during her first ascent in 2017.
Looking ENE with help from the telephoto lens, A bit of rainbow is on the R.
Sniffing along the SE edge. Photo looks SSW.

SPHP was amazed again by these fabulous views, yet increasingly leery of a line of showers still approaching from the W.  Blue sky could always be seen, but sunshine disappeared.  Mount Fairplay was in shadow, as a parade of large clouds began sailing overhead.

Meanwhile, having completed her tour of the summit area, Lupe was sniffing her way back toward the shed and towers near the S end, when an electrifying, unmistakable sound reached her big soft Dingo ears.

A squirrel!

What?  Unbelievable!  Not a tree within a mile in any direction.  What on earth would a squirrel be doing way up here?

Perhaps it was a peakbagging squirrel?  It was certainly a great climber, but then again, most squirrels are.  Furthermore, this particular squirrel had tremendous incentive.  Lupe was off like a shot after it, but the squirrel, which never should have broken radio silence, raced to the safety of the top of a skinny pole, and refused to budge from then on.

Lupe was beside herself, first with joy, then with frustration.  She sniffed all around a metal shed and nearby towers.  Where on earth had that squirrel disappeared to?  The squirrel couldn’t keep a secret, and soon gave its position away.

Aha!  Way up there, aye?

Searching for the Mount Fairplay peakbagging squirrel. It’s at the top of the tall pole (Center) near Lupe. Photo looks S.
A squirrel on Mount Fairplay? Why? How? Maybe it was nuts, instead of looking for them? Wasn’t crazy enough to come down, though.

The rest of her nearly hour long stay on Mount Fairplay, Lupe remained entranced by and preoccupied with that dang squirrel.  The Carolina Dog was still willing to pose for a photo or two, but once they were taken, she invariably went immediately back to trying to solve the problem of how to get at the squirrel.

Time and again, Lupe circled the pole, all the nearby towers, and sniffed around the shed.  She attacked a step ladder leaning against the shed, to no effect.  That squirrel at least had sense enough to stay put.  It wasn’t going anywhere.  Fine!  Lupe eventually laid down to wait it out.

I see you now! I know you’re up there! Why don’t you come down? We can play a game! How about a round of Predator & Prey?
Oh, fun! Kinda busy right now, though. I have other plans. Go ahead and start without me.
No worries! I’ll wait! Come down as soon as you can.

When rain showers appeared imminent, SPHP grabbed Lupe and hid with her on the downwind E side of the metal shed.  No need to.  The showers hit, but rain didn’t.  Snow!  Heh.  Snow wasn’t a problem, not enough of it to matter.  The clouds passed, and the snow ended.

Lupe went back to squirrel duty.  SPHP wandered the summit of Mount Fairplay gazing out on the incredible Alaskan scenery.  Mountains were in all directions, but for a very long way, none were as high as Mount Fairplay.  All the rolling hills nearby were much lower.

Looking down Mount Fairplay’s S ridge. Photo looks SW.
View to the SE.
Loopster gets back into the picture, while still keeping a watchful eye on the squirrel. Photo looks SSW.
The view to the W. Lupe had come up the long golden slope in sunlight from R to L. The G6 is parked at a pullout (not visible) along the Taylor Highway toward the R.
Looking NW toward distant peaks.
Same view with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

An endless stream of clouds sailed overhead.  A few were dark enough to look a bit ominous, but nothing ever happened except brief peltings by tiny snow granules.  Lupe kept up her squirrel vigilance.  The hills in all directions had a mottled appearance, partly in sunshine and partly in shadow, but Mount Fairplay remained dark and cold.

Another dark cloud sails overhead. Photo looks SW.

Looper hadn’t even started out for Mount Fairplay until mid-afternoon.  After a glorious hour, it was time to press on.  The American Dingo was reluctant to leave, chagrined that the squirrel had not come down from its spectacular perch to play.

However, if the squirrel wasn’t interested in a game of Predator & Prey, there were other fun things to do.  In 2017, Lupe had not visited the big rock formation at the S end of the saddle S of Mount Fairplay, even though it had been tempting to go check it out.  This time around, SPHP was determined that Loop was going to get a chance to explore it.

Approaching the first big rock formation on Mount Fairplay’s S ridge. Photo looks SSW.

Scrambling up was trickier than it looked.  Lupe got close to the top of the rock formation, and might have been able to reach it, but settled for a bit less.  She already had a nice view over the length of the big saddle back to the summit of Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.), and there was plenty more intriguing territory to explore farther S.

Mount Fairplay from the S.
Lots more fun territory to explore. Photo looks SSW.

The S ridge was rocky and rough.  Loop abandoned the ridgeline bound for easier terrain below.  Perhaps upset at having been led away from not one, but two, perfectly good squirrels today, the were-puppy made an appearance.  The were-puppy first attacked SPHP, then delivered a stern lecture.

I’d already found a squirrel up on Mount Fairplay! Why did we have to come down here?

Lupe soon forgave SPHP, though, as she entered a golden land.  With no goals or objectives to pursue other than to enjoy a magical evening in the trackless Alaskan wilderness, Lupe and SPHP simply wandered.

In a golden land.
Looking back along the S ridge. The rock formation Lupe had climbed nearly to the top of is on the L. Photo looks NE.
Wandering.
Another look back. Mount Fairplay’s summit (L of Center) is the high point below the small cloud. Photo looks NNE.

The evening was magical!  The Carolina Dog roamed free, far and wide.  Lupe went a long way SW before SPHP realized it was time to start N in hopes of finding a way back down to the Taylor Highway not too far from the G6.

At one point Lupe came to a column of rock on the edge of a ridge.  The skies had been clearing, and the evening had turned mostly sunny, but an impressive cloud still hung over Mount Fairplay as Lupe stood poised on the column.

Mount Fairplay (L) momentarily plagued by yet another dark cloud. Photo looks NE.
You know, SPHP, there’s a squirrel up there. If we had only waited, I bet it would have come down by now.

Though still August, this far N it was early autumn.  As the sun slid ever closer to the far horizon, its slanting rays set aglow the blazing colors of the tundra.  For a while Lupe and SPHP stopped to rest on a hillside, and ponder the sublime beauty of this precious world.

A magical evening on the W slopes of Mount Fairplay. Photo looks NW.
Loopster in evening sunlight.

During the rest of the gorgeous trek back, the clouds all disappeared.  Perhaps this magical evening was about to be followed by a magical night?

In the entire 3 weeks since the American Dingo had left Montana, Lupe hadn’t seen a single star.  A year ago in early September, an orange moon had risen over Mount Fairplay in the wee hours of the morning, and for the very first time, Lupe had seen the Northern Lights.

Wouldn’t it be a treat, if she was in for a repeat performance tonight?  (9:38 PM)

Returning from Mount Fairplay, Alaska 8-25-18

Links:

Next Adventure                             Prior Adventure

The Taylor Highway

Mount Fairplay & Chicken, Alaska to the Top of the World Highway & Dawson City, Yukon Territory (9-2-17 & 9-3-17)

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Mount Fairplay & Chicken, Alaska to the Top of The World Highway & Dawson City, Yukon Territory (9-2-17 & 9-3-17)

Days 34 & 35 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

9-2-17, 9:30 AM – Overslept!  Good grief.  For once it hadn’t rained at all overnight.  Most of the morning sky was blue.  Maybe the weather really was improving?  Easy to get fooled in Alaska, though.  SPHP was far from certain it wouldn’t rain later in the day.  Should Lupe stick around Palmer, or not?  SPHP pondered the question while buying supplies at the new Fred Meyer store.

11:02 AM, 50°F – No, Lupe wasn’t going to stay.  The day was already looking hazier than “early” on.  The Carolina Dog was going to leave Palmer seeking more reliable skies elsewhere.  September was here.  Maybe she would find fairer weather in the Yukon?  Her time in glorious Alaska was about up.  Sad, but true.  Lupe stared out the window of the G6, as SPHP drove out of Palmer on Glen Highway No. 1.

The day was spent traveling.  SPHP made a number of stops along the way so Loop could stretch her legs, and spend a few minutes appreciating the beauty of Alaska.

Lupe enjoys a view of the Copper River from a pullout along the Tok Cut-off near Gakona.
Another look at the Copper River, this time looking downstream.
Lupe on the Tok Cut-Off bridge over the Chistochina River. Photo looks SE.
Spectacular Mount Sanford is in view beyond the Chistochina River. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.
Zoomed in on Mount Sanford (16,237 ft.) from the Chistochina River bridge. Photo looks SE.
Looking N up the Chistochina River from the Tok Cut-Off bridge.

After fueling the G6 in Tok (5:43 PM, 58°F), SPHP drove ESE on the Alaska Highway.  A dozen miles later, Lupe crossed the bridge over the Tanana River.  A couple of miles beyond the river, SPHP left the Alaska Highway turning N on Taylor Highway No. 5 at Tetlin Junction.

The persistent sense of sadness over being on the way out of Alaska that SPHP had felt ever since leaving Palmer disappeared immediately.  Lupe had never been this way before!  This was all new territory to explore.  Suddenly the evening possessed an air of excitement and discovery.

Lupe was no longer near jagged or massive Alaskan peaks of the sort she had been seeing most of the afternoon.  Even so, Taylor Highway No. 5 was an interesting and beautiful drive.  The highway was paved, had virtually no traffic, and wound its way N through rounded hills and ridges of stunted, spindly forests.

After 15 miles or so, from a high point, Lupe caught sight of something exciting!   Still far to the NNE, an impressive hill stood alone, clearly much higher than anything else around.  SPHP parked the G6 at a large pullout, so Lupe could get out for a better look at it.

Roughly 15 miles from Tetlin Junction, SPHP stopped at a pullout along Taylor Highway No. 5 so Lupe could get out of the G6 for a better look at the impressive high hill seen on the L. Photo looks NNE.

The mysterious towering hill was a mountain, really, yet it was gently rounded, not jagged.  Why, Lupe could climb that peak easily enough!  Immediately, the desire to see Loopster reach the top of the mighty hill seized SPHP.  If the Taylor Highway would bring the American Dingo close enough to it to make an attempt possible, Lupe was going to try it!

SPHP immediately resolved that if Taylor Highway No. 5 would bring Lupe close enough to this mysterious towering hill, she was going to climb it!

Continuing on, Taylor Highway No. 5 did wend its way ever closer to the mysterious hill!  Before long, it became apparent the highway was going to pass along the lower W slopes of the mountain.  As Lupe drew near, SPHP parked at a pullout on the hill’s long SW ridge.  The summit was still some miles away.

It was far too late in the day to consider an ascent now.  Lupe and SPHP started up the SW ridge, anyway.  The Carolina Dog wasn’t going far.  SPHP just wanted to see what the terrain was like, and what sort of obstacles Loop might encounter.

Lupe climbed for only 8 or 9 minutes, sniffing and exploring a forest of spindly, dead trees.  The trees were thin and small, and hadn’t amounted to much even when alive.  The ground was spongy tundra, but fairly dry.  A few rocks, a little deadfall, a moderately steep slope.  That was about it for obstacles.  SPHP was certain Lupe could climb this hill.

View of E Alaska from the first pullout Looper stopped at near the mysterious high hill. This was beautiful, remote territory. Photo looks WNW.
Lupe on her short exploratory excursion up the mysterious hill’s long SW ridge. Taylor Highway No. 5 continues N beyond her. Photo looks N.
Loop’s brief initial excursion quickly convinced SPHP that the Carolina Dog shouldn’t have any problems climbing this mysterious hill. Photo looks S.

Lupe’s initial exploration was encouraging!  Returning to the G6, SPHP drove farther N on Taylor Highway No. 5 looking for the closest point from which Loop could begin an ascent tomorrow morning.  The road was about as high on the mountain as it was going to get at about milepost 32.9.  SPHP again parked the G6 at a nearby pullout.

Looper made a second exploratory excursion up the slope overlooking the highway.  The top of the mountain was in view another 2,000 feet higher.  A nearby band of live trees and high bushes appeared to be the only significant obstacle.  Lupe ought to be able to get through that easily enough.

Lupe sits on the slope where she would begin her ascent of the mysterious mountain in the morning. The summit (L) was still 2,000 feet above her. The nearby trees and tall bushes looked like the only real obstacle. Lupe shouldn’t have any problem getting through that! Photo looks E.

The tundra colors were striking in the evening light.  Lupe and SPHP stood admiring the beauty of the mountainside, and the amazing views of E Alaska.

The colorful tundra was strikingly beautiful in the evening light. Taylor Highway No. 5 is seen winding its way along the W slopes of the mysterious mountain Lupe intended to climb. Photo looks SSW.

A roasted chicken SPHP had bought this morning back in Palmer served as dinner in the G6.  Loop enjoyed the chicken feast, then spent the last hour of the evening sniffing excitedly in the jungle of tall bushes by the pullout where the G6 was parked.  Meanwhile, SPHP gathered up trash careless travelers had strewn about.

The sky was 90% clear as twilight began to fade.  (9:21 PM)  Hopes were high for a successful ascent in the morning.  After dark, a 3/4 yellow moon rose over the mountain’s ridge.

9-3-17 –  Lupe and SPHP woke hours later to see an orange moonset.  It seemed very late.  The Carolina Dog went out to sniff the air.  For the first time in a month, the night sky was clear.  Looper could see stars, but only the brightest ones.  The night wasn’t very dark.  Long stretches of the N sky were brighter than elsewhere.  Was that the Northern Lights?  The bright streaks didn’t seem to be moving or changing.

Satisfied with her sniffing, Lupe returned to the G6 to continue snoozing.  SPHP wasn’t terribly sleepy, and sat watching the night sky off and on for a couple of hours.  The bright patches of sky below the Big Dipper were indeed the Northern Lights.  They changed only slowly, gradually, except for one 10 or 15 minute period when the lights did suddenly dance and flash.

Perhaps not a particularly good display of Northern Lights for Alaska, but the best SPHP had ever seen.  Certainly worth seeing, too.  Something primal about it, especially when observed here so alone, so remote in E Alaska with Lupe resting peacefully nearby.

6:21 AM, 33°F, clear, calm – Lupe and SPHP sat sharing English muffins and cheese for breakfast.  The heater was on in the G6 to take the chill off.  The sun wasn’t up yet, but it was light enough out.  Loopster was in luck this morning!  The weather had held.  She would soon be on her way up the mysterious mountain.

7:04 AM, 33°F, clear, a light breeze – Loop was on her way!  She climbed steadily.  The band of trees and tall bushes slowed SPHP down, but Lupe was soon above it.  She was up on a broad ridge which became increasingly rocky as she gained elevation, but for a long way there was spongy tundra.  In many places, the tundra was wet or boggy.  Nothing new about that.  This area wasn’t particularly challenging compared to other places the American Dingo had been.

Lupe starts her early morning journey up the mysterious mountain. She’s already well above the band of trees and large bushes here. Photo looks NW.

Above the trees and bushes, it was easy to see where to go.  Lupe headed for a high saddle between the summit and a rocky prominence on the mountain’s S ridge.  The only factor limiting her progress was how fast SPHP could manage to trudge up the long slope.  Lupe had plenty of time to roam and explore as she pleased.

It was easy to see which way to go. Lupe headed for the high saddle seen straight up from her. Photo looks SE.
Lupe had plenty of time to roam and explore as she pleased, while SPHP trudged slowly higher.
The upper slopes of the mountain were strewn with rock. Lupe was able to avoid nearly all that sort of terrain while proceeding up to the saddle (far R). Photo looks E.

Although the sky was clear or covered only by high thin clouds, the air was hazy.  Lupe could see a long way, but the distant views weren’t as clear and crisp as they might have been.  Still, the American Dingo was fortunate to have as good a day as this one.

Despite mostly clear skies, the morning became a bit hazy. Looking down the long SW ridge after Lupe had gained considerable elevation. Taylor Highway No. 5 is seen below on the R. Photo looks SSW.

After a considerable climb, Lupe reached the high saddle she had been striving for S of the summit.  The saddle was broad, fairly rocky, but also had a fair amount of tundra vegetation.  Movement was still quite easy.  Loop had only a few hundred feet of elevation gain left to reach the top of the mountain.  It didn’t look like it would be hard to get there.

The broad saddle S of the summit was rocky, but there was still enough vegetation around to make travel far easier than an endless rock hop would have been. Photo looks S.
Once Lupe reached the high saddle, she only had a few hundred feet of elevation left to gain to reach the top of the mountain. It didn’t look hard at all. Photo looks NNE.

The climb to the mysterious mountain’s summit was cake.  Even the rocky stretches near the top weren’t bad.  The rocks were of moderate size.  No problem picking a route up through them.  Soon structures on top of the mountain that had been faintly visible from the highway were coming into view.  Looper was almost there!

Structures that had been faintly visible from down at the highway came into view again as Lupe neared the summit. She was almost there! Photo looks N.

Lupe had done it!  She arrived at the top of the mysterious mountain.  The summit area was large and quite flat, longer N/S than E/W.  Most of the summit was strewn with small to medium size dark colored rocks.  A small ridge of dark rock close to the SE end of the summit area E of the first structures looked like the true summit.  The diminutive ridge was only slightly higher than the rest of the summit.

Of course, Lupe went right on over to the true summit to claim her latest peakbagging success!

Lupe stands on the rock pile that appeared to be the true summit of the mysterious mountain to claim her peakbagging success. Photo looks ESE.
Lupe at the true summit. A majority, perhaps 75%, of the summit area is in view. Photo looks N.

Lupe’s success in reaching the top of this mountain in E Alaska was very satisfying in several ways.  When Lupe left home on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP had brought along a list of peakbagging possibilities and a few other activities she might find worthwhile.

Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) N of the Brooks Range was the only other mountain Lupe had climbed that wasn’t on this premeditated list.  The spontaneity of discovering this prominent peak only yesterday, then climbing it this morning without the aid of any roads, trails, or maps was really fun.  Such an unexpected treat!  SPHP didn’t even know what mountain Lupe was on.

Another cool thing was that this mountain felt so alone and remote.  Yesterday evening, Lupe had climbed Bodenburg Butte (886 ft.) near Palmer.  She’d had great views from there, but it really wasn’t much of a feat.  The butte wasn’t all that high, and was frequently climbed being so close to Alaska’s major population centers.  SPHP was glad this much higher and more remote peak was now destined to be the last mountain Lupe would climb in Alaska, instead of little Bodenburg Butte.

SPHP expressed such joy and enthusiasm over Lupe’s successful ascent, that Looper got into the spirit of it all, too.  She began to think maybe she ought to re-enact the final moments of her trek to the top.  After all, she had become the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood on this trip.  Perhaps this moment ought to be preserved for posterity and the Arctic Sisterhood’s archives?

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood struggles valiantly to the summit of a remote and mysterious peak in E Alaska! Photo looks SSW.
Yes! This is how I did it, coming right up this S side of the mountain from far below!

After the glorious re-enactment was complete, Lupe and SPHP wandered around exploring the summit.  The most dramatic mountains Loopster could see from here were a line of high white ones far to the SW.  They were so far away, the haze made them difficult to see very well without help from the camera’s telephoto lens.

The highest mountains that could be seen were so far away, it took assistance from the camera’s telephoto lens to get a good look at them. Photo looks SW.

Hills, ridges, and mountains as high as the one Lupe was on could be seen in most directions, but they were all many miles away.  This lone mountain dominated a large area.

Lupe along the E edge of the summit area. It was a long way down from here! Photo looks SE.
Looking NE along the E edge of the summit.

While exploring the summit, Lupe made a discovery that solved a key mystery.  On a rock close to the N edge, she found a survey benchmark.  The benchmark was stamped with the hitherto unknown name of the mountain she was on.

Loopster near the N end of the summit area, close to where she made a discovery that revealed the name of this mountain she had climbed. Photo looks S.
Lupe stands on the rock bearing the survey benchmark she found. The benchmark is seen behind her R rear paw. Photo looks N.
Mystery solved! Lupe was on Mount Fairplay!

Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.)!  SPHP had never heard of it before, but that was where Lupe was right now.  An interesting name.  SPHP wondered how the mountain came by it, and if this name had a particular meaning or story behind it?

For a while, Loopster and SPHP sat together at the N end of the summit area surveying the scenery from the last mountain the American Dingo would climb in Alaska, at least on this Dingo Vacation.

Looking NNW from Mount Fairplay. Taylor Highway No. 5 heads N toward Chicken.

The survey benchmark Lupe had found was stamped No. 2.  SPHP looked around for a No. 1, but didn’t have the same success Lupe did.

When Lupe had spent nearly an hour up on Mount Fairplay, it was time to think about moving on.  The Carolina Dog would go back down using approximately the same route she came up.  Before doing so, Loopster visited a big rock along the E edge of the summit area that appeared to be in contention for the title of true summit.

Before leaving Mount Fairplay, Looper visited this rock along the E edge of the summit area that appeared to be nearly as high as the small ridge SPHP considered to be the true summit. Photo looks S.

Lupe also returned to the true summit, which was nearby.

Lupe returns to the true summit of Mount Fairplay. Photo looks N.

Precisely an hour after she arrived on top of Mount Fairplay, Lupe began her descent from the SW end of the summit area.  The descent was fun and relaxing, with beautiful views all the way down.  The mountain’s dark rocks contrasted with yellows, golds, and reds of the tundra.

The Carolina Dog was wild and free, roaming wherever she pleased.  She returned frequently to check on SPHP before dashing off to explore new mysteries borne on the breeze.  Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) was Lupe’s last Alaskan adventure of 2017.  She made the most of it, and had a wonderful time.

Looking SW from Mount Fairplay before starting the descent.
Precisely an hour after reaching the summit, Lupe begins her descent. Photo looks SSW.
Looking back at Mount Fairplay from the high saddle along the S ridge. Photo looks N.
The rocky knob at the S end of the high saddle. Lupe didn’t go all the way over there, though SPHP thought about it. She easily could have. Photo looks S.
Looking back at Mount Fairplay from below the high S saddle. Photo looks NNE.
Mount Fairplay was the last Alaskan peak Lupe climbed in 2017. She had a wonderful time! Photo looks NE.
Looking SSW.
Happy times in Alaska in fields of gold.
Busy, busy, all the way down! Photo looks N.

12:13 PM, 50°F – Mount Fairplay had been great fun, an excellent finale to Lupe’s 2017 adventures in Alaska!  The Carolina Dog arrived back at the G6 only a little after noon.  Time to head for Yukon Territory!  Lupe and SPHP proceeded N on Taylor Highway No. 5.

The road was paved most of the time until Lupe got within 20 miles or so of Chicken.  Then Taylor “Highway” No. 5 turned to rather rough gravel.  Since Chicken was the last metropolis Lupe would visit in Alaska, SPHP stopped for fuel.

Lupe eagerly inspected the chickens in Chicken.  Disappointingly, though gigantic, they didn’t look or sniff tasty at all.  The enormous tasteless chickens appeared to be confined as suspects at a crime scene, judging by the yellow plastic tape encircling them.

Loopster arrives in Chicken, the last Alaskan metropolis she would visit in 2017.
Why the chickens were cordoned off in Chicken wasn’t clear, but Lupe joined them briefly. If these giant chickens hadn’t seemed so tasteless and bland, quite a ruckus might have ensued, though Lupe insisted to SPHP that 3 giant chickens were no match for a lone American Dingo.

Beyond Chicken, Taylor Highway No. 5 remained rough gravel.  The road eventually started climbing steadily, reaching quite a height by the time the turn to Eagle appeared.  Here, Lupe and SPHP left Taylor Highway No. 5 on a beautiful newly paved road.  This road wound around high up on ridges for 12 miles, the rest of the way to customs at the Canadian border.  Lupe crossed into Yukon Territory about 3:15 PM.

On the Canadian side, Lupe was now on the Top of the World Highway, a gravel road which goes 65 miles to the Yukon River at Dawson City.

After crossing the border into Canada, SPHP parked on a hill where Lupe could look back at the border crossing (blue buildings on the L). Photo looks NW.
On a hill just N of the top of the Top of the World Highway, Lupe found this massive cairn with a view of customs where she had just left Alaska to enter the Yukon. Photo looks NW.
Looking WNW from the same cairn.
Some miles into Canada, this sign was posted about the Top of the World Highway that Lupe was taking to Dawson City.

The Top of the World Highway was all gravel, and a bit rough for the G6 in spots, but was in good overall condition.  Most of the way to Dawson City, it wound along a series of high ridges.  Lupe was farther N in the Yukon Territory than she had ever been before.  This was an area of rounded mountains and ridges separated by deep valleys.

SPHP drove slowly, both for the sake of the G6, and to enjoy the remote scenery.  Every now and then, it was time to let Lupe out to stretch, and take an even more leisurely look at particularly beautiful sights.

From the Top of the World Highway, Lupe saw many mountains that looked easy to climb. SPHP didn’t know any way to get close enough to make such aspirations feasible.
The Top of the World Highway stayed high on a series of long ridges. Lupe had lovely Yukon Territory views along virtually the entire route to Dawson City.
Enticing distant mountains with help from the telephoto lens.
Nearby hills and ridges were separated by deep valleys.
The vivid colors seen on the hillsides this time of year were incredible!

The Top of the World Highway finally began coming down off the ridges as Lupe neared Dawson City.  The highway ended on the W bank of the Yukon River.  No bridge exists across the river here.  Lupe would have to take the ferry to get over to Dawson City.

Fortunately, although the ferry would cease its 2017 operations later this month, it was still busy taking vehicles back and forth across the river this evening.  Several other vehicles were in line, so there would be a bit of a wait.  Lupe went down to the Yukon River for a look around.

Loop reaches the E end of the Top of the World Highway at the Yukon River. Dawson City is on the far bank. Photo looks SE.
What! No bridge? Lupe would have to take the ferry to get over to Dawson City.
Looking upstream (S).
This ferry is the only way for vehicles to cross the Yukon River at Dawson City. There was a bit of a wait for a turn, but no charge for taking the ferry.
Looking downstream before crossing the Yukon River. Photo looks NE.

Lupe enjoyed the ferry ride across the Yukon River.  The Carolina Dog had never traveled by ferry before.  The ferry was tame compared to the water taxi ride she’d taken from the Homer Spit across Kachemak Bay to climb Grace Ridge back in 2016.

Upon reaching the E bank, SPHP drove into Dawson City and parked.  When Lupe got out of the G6, she wanted to go right back down to the Yukon River to see how things looked from this side.

Looking downstream (N) from the Dawson City side of the Yukon River. The ferry is in sight on the R.

Satisfied that the river looked quite similar from this bank, Lupe next visited the nearby SS Keno, a sternwheel paddle steamer preserved here in Dawson City for its historic significance.

Lupe visits the SS Keno in Dawson City.

Dawson City reminded SPHP of Skagway on a smaller scale.  It was full of historic old buildings, shops, and restaurants.  People were around, but it was already September.  Overall, things were fairly quiet.  Lupe dropped by the General Store, but it was closed.

The Dawson City General Store was closed when Lupe dropped by. Too bad! The fresh meats they were promoting sounded good to the American Dingo.

Dawson City must boast a gas station somewhere, but SPHP couldn’t find it.  A driving tour of Dawson’s main streets didn’t turn one up.  Hmm.  About sundown, Lupe and SPHP left town heading E on the Klondike Highway.  Expensive fuel was available at the intersection with the Dempster Highway.  SPHP couldn’t afford to be too picky.

After fueling up, Lupe and SPHP set off on the Dempster Highway.  Right away, Lupe crossed a bridge over the Klondike River.  She made it only another 20 kilometers before the fading light signified that it was time to call it a day.  Better get rested up!  Tomorrow the American Dingo’s adventures would take her into Tombstone Territorial Park.

Links:

Next Adventure                           Prior Adventure

Mount Fairplay near Chicken, Alaska (8-25-18)

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