Dingo Vacations – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Paxson Mountain, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska (8-22-23 to 8-24-23)

Days 30-32 and Part 1 of Day 33 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-21-23, 1:15 PM, Tombstone Territorial Park –

So what did they say .. ACHOOO! … in the Interpretive Centre, SPHP?

Bless you, Loopster! Are you ever going to get over these sneezing fits?

Oh, I sure hope … ACHOOO! … so, SPHP.

Me, too, and the sooner the better, Loop. Anyway, the news is about what I figured. Registration for backcountry camping permits opens in January, and they quickly get booked up months in advance. After that, no permits are available unless they get a cancellation. So, Divide Lake is out. Likely always will be for a couple of nomads like us.

What’s the plan then, SPHP?

Guess we’re done with the Dempster Highway, Loop, so it’s on to Alaska!

Alaska! We’re … ACHOOO! … going back to Alaska?

It was the eventual plan all along, Sweet Puppy.

8-21-23, 2:36 PM, 65ºF – At the junction with North Klondike Hwy No. 2, SPHP parked near the display at the start of the Dempster Highway so Lupe could get out and stretch. At Tombstone Park, the sky had been drearily overcast. Not so here. The weather was warm and beautiful.

Back at the **start of the Dempster Highway**. Photo looks E.

We sure had a great time along the Dempster this year, Loop.

More adventures than we’ve ever had along it before, SPHP. And that’s saying something! I had a … a … ACHOOO … blast!

One last blast as we leave it, aye, Looper?

I can’t help it, SPHP.

Oh, I know. Just teasing you, Loopster.

8-21-23, 3:25 PM, 66ºF, Dawson City – Although this was a travel day, and after yesterday’s Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.) adventure Lupe was quite content to snooze on her pink blanket or look out the window, she did get to make a few more stops along the scenic drive.

A visit to Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.) was a tradition whenever passing through Dawson City. The ancient bench at the top of the mountain was in sad shape, but still there.

**Yukon River** (R) from **Midnight Dome**. Photo looks NW.

The air’s much clearer, SPHP. For the first time on this Dingo … ACHOOO! … Vacation we’ve got a terrific view of the Yukon River.

Yes, all better now that the Arctic apocalypse is over, Loop.

Upstream view of the **Yukon River** at **Dawson City**. Photo looks SW.

Leaving Dawson City, Lupe took the ferry to the Top of the World Highway. By 4:25 PM, she was back in Alaska, and by 6:48 PM, the Carolina Dog was well beyond Chicken on Taylor Hwy No. 5, admiring Mount Fairplay, which she’d already climbed once on this Dingo Vacation.

Crossing the **Yukon River** aboard the **George Black ferry**.

**Mount Fairplay** (R of Center) from **Taylor Highway No. 5**. Photo looks S.

8-23-23, 9:26 AM – Last evening’s drive had continued until after dark, then resumed early this morning. Soon there were signs of trouble. Lupe now stood on the Tok-Cutoff bridge over the Chistochina River. Looking upstream, everything seemed fine.

**Chistochina River** upstream view. Photo looks N.

Downstream, however, Mount Sanford (16,237 ft.), usually a gleaming white giant, was dimly seen through a haze.

**Mount Sanford** (Center) beyond the **Chistochina River**. Photo looks SSE.

Smoke, SPHP. The Arctic apocalypse is … ACHOOO! … still here!

The Arctic apocalypse still lived here in Alaska? That was unwelcome news. Fortunately, a little farther on, the haze didn’t seem quite as bad to the W from bluffs overlooking the Copper River.

**Mount Sanford** (Center) and **Mount Drum** (R) beyond the **Copper River**. Photo looks E.

**Copper River** downstream view. Photo looks WSW.

The smoke seems worst toward the S, Loopster. That’s good! We’ll be turning N in just a few more miles at Gakona Junction.

Where are we going, anyway, SPHP?

Denali Highway No. 8. You’ve got several peaks on your list of possibilities there.

The first part of Richardson Highway No. 4 N of Gakona Junction was a mess due to road construction, but led to beautiful new pavement. The highway eventually ran along the E shore of Paxson Lake.

See that huge ridge to the NW across the lake, Loop? That’s where we’ll be going first, Paxson Mountain (5,250 ft.).

The L turn onto Denali Highway No. 8 was only a few miles beyond the N end of Paxson Lake.

8-22-23, 5:43 PM, 64ºF – After a reconnaisance looking for the best spot, SPHP had settled on a Denali Highway pullout near the NW end of the miles long Paxson Mountain ridge. Everything was now ready to go.

Sort of late in the day to be setting out, isn’t it, SPHP? And I see you’re bringing the tiny house!

Yup. Paxson Mountain’s true summit is about 5 miles SSE as the crow flies, Loop. I’m expecting a potentially difficult bushwhack until we reach the alpine. If we can just manage that much this evening, that will put us in good shape to summit and still get back late tomorrow.

We better get after it then, SPHP. You don’t want to be trying to set the tiny house up in the bushes.

About to cross the **Denali Highway** and strike out for Paxon Mountain! Photo looks SE.

The trek started inauspiciously. After crossing the Denali Highway, tall bushes immediately greeted the American Dingo as she headed up the opposite bank. Clouds of gnats, joined by a few mosquitoes and flies, swirled in the air as SPHP fought to push past this first thick stand.

Fortunately, the gnats weren’t aggressive. Their overwhelming numbers would have made that an instant show-stopper. Lupe continued higher, climbing a rumpled, uneven slope amid lower bushes. Reaching a first rocky high point, she had a great view of Peak 4790 back to the NW.

**Peak 4790** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

Remember all the caribou we saw up on Peak 4790 years ago, SPHP?

Oh, yeah! You were so excited, Loop! The fall colors were breath-taking that day, too. Brilliant crimson carpets of alpine bearberries that were out of this world!

Continuing SSE, the territory the Carolina Dog was climbing through was full of bushes. Some were low, but most were waist high on SPHP, often leaving Lupe lost in a jungle where she couldn’t see a thing. Meanwhile, SPHP struggled to find the best routes forward. Occasional open areas provided significant assistance, but usually played out quickly.

After gaining some elevation, crowberries and blueberries appeared – ripe, sweet, and delicious. Despite these temptations, SPHP seldom paused to sample them due to the relentless annoying gnat swarm.

Lupe succeeded in reaching a series of firm or rocky high points, but gaining and keeping elevation was even more difficult than anticipated. These achievements were usually negated by an immediate descent into bush-filled ravines on the other side.

Even so, the American Dingo was making progress. A grand view of a long line of lofty snow and glacier clad peaks appeared far to the NNE. One glacier sweeping down a long valley was particularly impressive.

The line of snow and ice-capped peaks. Photo looks NNE.

Any idea what glacier that big one is, SPHP?

Not sure, but if I had to guess, I’d say it was the Gulkana Glacier, Looper.

**Gulkana Glacier** (Center & R). Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

Whether that identification was correct or not, wasn’t really important. Getting to the alpine, above both bush and gnat line, was. A quick glance at the topo map suggested that aiming for HP4626 was the best course of action. However, getting there proved way more difficult than it looked.

Heading directly SE, the bushes were so tall and dense, that something else had to be done. Lupe successfully followed a more open corridor on a long foray NE, gaining a fair amount of elevation, but then found that turning SE again wouldn’t work due to a deep, rocky ravine in the way.

This unhappy discovery forced a long march S through the wretched high bushes, eventually bringing the Carolina Dog near HP4000, a hill only a mile SSE of where she’d started after 50 minutes of effort.

Near **HP4000** (Center). Photo looks NW.

After crossing a relatively small ravine near HP4000, it looked like Lupe was past the last significant obstacle other than bushes. However, this was not true, as part of the very deep ravine was still ahead.

Climbing out of a **ravine** (L) crossed near **HP4000**. Photo looks NNE.

Unseen from this point, the **deep ravine** was still ahead. Photo looks SE.

Forced SW of HP4000 in order to avoid the deep ravine, Lupe was high enough to see a saddle farther W that would finally get her around it. To reach this saddle required yet another descent into the tall bushes. Near the upper end of the ravine, a pond was visible down in it. The tedious bushwhack was forgotten in an instant when a lone caribou burst forth from this hidden hollow.

The **lone caribou** (Center) of **Caribou Hollow** heads for the hills. Photo looks WSW.

The **caribou** pauses. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe was excited! The caribou ran SW, then S, then back to the NNE. It was almost more than a Carolina Dog could take. Sadly, once it vanished among the tall bushes, she never saw it again.

After crossing the saddle W of Caribou Hollow, rock formations 50 to 100 feet high were in sight to the S. The terrain E of them rose in a series of small benches toward the high ground Lupe was trying to get to.

Near **Caribou Hollow**, heading for the **rock formations** (Center). Photo looks S.

Passing E of the rocks, Lupe began a steady climb on a moderately steep slope. The bushes shrank, then began to thin out. The American Dingo finally managed to reach the alpine. Once there, the rest was easy. The slope diminished as Lupe continued S, eventually leveling out at 4,300 feet. Crossing a level plain, Lupe reached the edge of a broad valley.

Mission accomplished, Loopster! This ought to do for the night.

In the **alpine**. **HP4000** (L) below. Photo looks N.

8-22-23, 8:37 PM, Base Camp, 0.75 mile WSW of HP4626 – SPHP had Lupe’s tiny house all set up on the soft, low tundra. In the alpenglow, a prominent peak was visible nearly 2 miles SSE beyond the broad valley.

**HP5226** (R) from base camp. Photo looks SSE.

What a beautiful spot! We can see for miles! Is that Paxson Mountain to the SSE, SPHP?

Nope. That’s got to be Peak 5226, Loop, which is only about half way to Paxson Mountain from here. We’ll visit it tomorrow. A bit off topic, but I notice that you haven’t suffered a single Dingo-shaking sneeze lately. Are you cured of whatever it was that’s been ailing you?

Oh, maybe so, SPHP. I don’t feel like I need to sneeze anymore.

Glad to hear it, Loopster! I was getting worried about you.

The spot where the tiny house was pitched really was a great place. Looking SW, Lake 3081 and Wait-A-Bit Lake, two of the largest in the Hungry Hollow region were in sight.

**Lake 3081** (Center) and Wait-A-Bit-Lake (L of Center) down in **Hungry Hollow**. Photo looks SW.

Loop, look off to the NW, a little R of the sun. See the highest rounded hill just beyond some others? That’s Tangle Benchmark (5,715 ft.), another mountain on your list of possibilities.

Are we going to climb it, too, SPHP?

Hope so, once we get back from Paxson Mountain. You have a few more peaks within range of the Denali Highway we’re going to try, too.

The more the merrier, SPHP!

**Tangle Benchmark** (R). Photo looks NW.

The evening wore on fair and lovely, full of promise for tomorrow. Getting past all the bushes, ravines, and gnats had been worth it.

Day’s end. **Tangle Benchmark** (R). Photo looks NW.

8-23-23, 7:45 AM, Base Camp, 0.75 mile WSW of HP4626 – Although the night sky had been clear, clouds predominated this morning. Otherwise mild with no wind. Optimism reigned. The American Dingo had already drained one of the four water bottles, and this journey was just getting started, so finding a spot to resupply might be smart.

We’re leaving the tiny house set up here, SPHP?

Yup. I’ll stash the sleeping bags in it, too, so we can travel fast and light. The terrain shouldn’t be difficult now that we’re above the tall bushes. I’m thinking we ought to be able to hit both Peak 5226 and Paxson Mountain, and still get back to the RAV4 before dark.

What about water, SPHP? Does your map show anyplace where we can get more?

Possibly. There’s supposed to be a long, skinny tarn in a ravine 0.25 mile E of here, Looper. We’ll be setting off in that direction anyway, so if there’s actually any water when we get there, I’ll fill up the water bottles. Think we’re ready, so if there are no further questions … Onward! Puppy, ho!

Gradually losing elevation, Lupe set off heading ESE in search of the skinny tarn. With only a few low bushes to contend with, the downhill march on the tundra was super easy. The hidden tarn was right where the map promised it would be. Its calm, green water was very clear.

At the skinny, **hidden tarn**. Photo looks NNE.

Back at peak water supply, Lupe left the S end of the tarn climbing SE on a very steep slope. The rate of climb soon diminished. Peak 5226 was in sight again. Although less than 2 miles away, it looked a long way off.

So we just head for Peak 5226 now, SPHP?

Pretty much, Looper. Should be a gradual, easy climb virtually the entire way. Stick to the high ground as we go around the E end of the valley to our S. That’s about all there is to it.

This rather obvious plan worked well. Lupe had already done the hard part yesterday down among all the ghastly bushes, bugs, and ravines. The tundra was lumpy in some areas, but the Carolina Dog generally made excellent progress as she steadily gained elevation.

Heading for **HP5226** (R of Center). Photo looks SSE.

An exhilarating morning romp! Photo looks SSE.

Eventually the terrain began to steepen. A series of benches separated by rocky climbs was ahead. Picking a way through the rocks up several benches, a grand panorama was back to the N. Lupe could now look down on HP4226, a mile away. Off to the NW, Peak 4790 already looked lower, too. Much higher mountains were well beyond them.

Approaching a rocky scramble between benches. Photo looks SSE.

A quick glance back. **Peak 4790** (far L foreground), **HP4226** (R). Photo looks N.

As the American Dingo continued gaining elevation, the terrain became progressively rockier. Even in the rockiest, steepest sections, Lupe was often able to follow lanes of tundra higher. Views kept improving. Part of Summit Lake appeared to the NNE, with the Gulkana Glacier visible in the mountains beyond it.

**Summit Lake** and the **Gulkana Glacier** (R of Center). Photo looks NNE.

Approaching the steepest, rockiest region. Photo looks SSE.

Near the end of the climb, a certain amount of scrambling around on the rocks was unavoidable. As usual, Lupe enjoyed it.

Following the tundra whenever possible. Photo looks S.

The steepest part of the ascent ended upon reaching a vast rock-strewn plain of yellow tundra. This plain sloped gradually up to the S toward an even higher plateau where a huge billboard and a couple of sheds were in sight along the E edge of the mountain. Somewhat closer along the W edge, a ridge of dark rock rose 50 feet above the terrain around it.

On the **yellow tundra summit plain**. **True summit** (R). Photo looks S.

That dark little ridge must be the top of Peak 5226, SPHP.

Believe you’re right, Loop. Looks like we won’t have any trouble climbing it. Before we do, though, let’s angle over toward the NE edge for another look at Summit Lake.

What a terrific view! Nearly the entire lake was in sight, as well as a long stretch of the Denali Highway down at the base of the mountain.

**Summit Lake** from the **NE edge of Peak 5226**. Photo looks NNE.

Likely the best view we’ll have of Summit Lake, Loopster. We’ll see it again, but we’re closer to it here than we will be at Paxson Mountain.

So beautiful, SPHP! Let’s go check out the true summit now.

Approaching **Peak 5226’s summit** (R). Photo look SSW.

8-23-23, 10:10 AM, 55ºF – Peak 5226’s summit was a quick scramble to the top of a ridge where two high points were separated by 70 to 80 feet. Both prominences featured some tundra among the rocks and were very close to the same elevation. The apparent true summit toward the S end was only marginally higher.

An enormous amount of territory was in sight in all directions, although the views toward the S and W were somewhat marred by a hazy hint of smoke. Summit Lake and the glacier-clad peaks beyond it were clearer off to the NNE.

At the **N end of the Peak 5226 summit ridge**. **Summit Lake** (R). Photo looks N.

**Summit Lake** from **Peak 5226**. Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

Peak 5226’s W flank sloped gradually away to the Hungry Hollow area dotted with many small lakes. Flat Top Mountain (4,679 ft.) to the SSW marked the far edge of that water-logged lowland.

**Flattop Mountain** (L), **Hungry Hollow** (R). Photo looks SW.

However, it was the view to the S that was most relevant. 2 enormous billboards were now in sight, one SE along the E edge of Peak 5226, and another one quite a bit farther S. Between them, Lupe had her first view of Paxson Mountain (5,250 ft.), her ultimate destination, still more than 2 miles SSE.

**Paxson Mountain** (R) from **Peak 5226’s true summit**. Photo looks SSE.

Paxson Mountain definitely looks higher than where we are now, Looper. In fact, I’m surprised at how much higher it looks.

Oh, it’s not all that much different, SPHP. I’m more surprised by how far away it still is.

Yeah, still a bit of a trek, Loopster, but should be an easy one. It’ll go fast. By the way, congratulations on reaching the true summit of Peak 5226!

Thanks, SPHP. I’ll take that, and a chocolate coconut bar to go!

Lupe got her chocolate coconut bar, but didn’t go anywhere. Instead, she opted for a nap on the soft tundra near the true summit. Meanwhile, SPHP enjoyed the splendid views in all directions. Other than the bit of smoke haze, it really was a perfect day.

Half an hour drifted by before SPHP nudged Snoozster.

About time to hit it, Looper.

Summit hour’s over already, SPHP? Seems like I just closed my eyes.

It’s only half over, Loop. You’ll get the rest of your summit hour here on the way back.

Before leaving Peak 5226 entirely, checking out the billboards seemed like a good idea. Lupe went to the closest one along the E edge of the mountain first.

By the **billboard** and **metal sheds** SE of Peak 5226’s summit. Photo looks NE.

So, what does the billboard say, SPHP?

Not a darn thing, Loopster.

Not even “Eat At Joe’s?” What kind of a crummy billboard is this?

It’s most likely a passive repeater, Looper, not actually a billboard. It’s for relaying microwaves, or possibly radio waves.

Boring! I suppose the other one will be the same, SPHP?

Probably, Loop. We can still check it out, though. Maybe it actually will tell us where to eat?

Might as well, since it’s on the way to Paxson Mountain, SPHP.

Heading for the **second billboard** (R). **Paxson Mountain** (L). Photo looks S.

**Peak 5226 summit** (L) beyond the **second repeater**. **First repeater** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

The second billboard also turned out to be a passive repeater. Oh, well! Lupe’s focus was now on her main objective, and a couple of other high points of interest. HP5100, the top of a plateau between Peak 5226 and Paxson Mountain, was closest beyond a 400 foot descent to a very broad, flat saddle. Conical HP5200 at the far S end of Paxson Mountain was also in view.

**Paxson Mountain** (L), **HP5100** (L of Center) with **HP5200** between them. Photo looks S.

The long, gradual descent to the enormous saddle was rocky, but with enough lanes of tundra running through this region to avoid most of the rocks. The entire trek was a lot of fun. Lupe roamed a vast area sniffing wherever she pleased, enjoying spaciousness and solitude that conveyed a sense of boundless freedom.

Descending to the broad saddle. **HP5100** (L). Photo looks SSE.

Crossing the saddle, some of the tundra was wet. Nothing too serious, though. Once across, Lupe climbed another long, gradual slope that was a mix of rock and tundra up to a flat plain along HP5100’s W shoulder. Avoiding HP5100, the American Dingo went far enough S to get beyond it, before turning ESE toward Paxson Mountain.

Approaching **Paxson Mountain**. **Summit** (L of Center), **HP5200** (R). Photo looks ESE.

Another gradual descent was ahead, followed by a steeper drop into a narrow valley cutting N/S across the mountain. Lupe did a great job of reaching this valley near its highest point. All she had to do now was climb Paxson Mountain’s W slope. Since the W slope was very steep here, the Carolina Dog explored the valley a little farther S.

Down in the **valley**. Photo looks NNE.

**Paxson Mountain’s W slope**. Photo looks ESE.

Soon discovering a beautiful stream gushing forth from a spring, Lupe helped herself to a drink, then began her ascent.

At the **spring**. Part of **Paxson Lake** (Center) in the distance. Photo looks S.

The ascent consisted merely of a long, steep, tundra slope. After gaining close to 500 feet of elevation, Lupe reached a plain of yellow tundra and scattered rocks. Once again, a minor ridge of dark rock sat atop a higher plateau to the S. This time, instead of a billboard, a green shed of some sort was visible E of it.

**Paxson Mountain summit** (L of Center), **HP5200** (R). Photo looks SE.

Deja vu all over again, SPHP!

Seems that way, Loop. Shall we repeat our earlier actions at Peak 5226, and go over to the N edge for a look at Summit Lake before heading on to the true summit?

Why not? Might as well make it a tradition, SPHP.

**Summit Lake** & the **Gulkana Glacier** (Center) from **Paxson Mountain**. Photo looks N.

The view of Summit Lake and the Gulkana Glacier were nearly as good here as they had been at Peak 5226, which was now in shadow back to the NNE. Lupe could see both passive repeaters and the little summit ridge she’d visited over there.

**HP5100** (L), **Peak 5226** (R) in the distance. Photo looks NNW.

After a good look at these beautiful and interesting views, Lupe headed SE across the yellow plain, then on up to the green shed situated near the N edge of the elevated plateau E of the summit ridge.

Heading for the **green shed** (R of Center) on the **elevated plateau**. **Summit** (R). Photo looks SE.

**Paxson Mountain’s summit ridge** from the **green shed**. Photo looks WSW.

This hut looks just like the one at Davis Dome (4,124 ft.) back along the Taylor Highway near the Canadian border, SPHP, except it’s newer. What are they for again?

Not sure, Loopster. Presumably houses some kind of communications equipment.

It didn’t take long for the American Dingo to sniff her way once around the green shed, and decide that was sufficient investigation. Lupe then headed over to the 70 foot high rock outcropping constituting a summit ridge remarkably similar to the one at Peak 5226 along the W edge of the plateau, and made the easy scramble to the top. As at Peak 5226, the very highest rocks were near the S end.

**Paxson Mountain true summit.** **HP5200** (L). Photo looks S.

8-23-23, 1:13 PM, 55ºF, Paxson Mountain (5,250 ft.) – As Lupe reached the true summit amid a 10 mph SW breeze, the sky was cloudier in most directions than it had been earlier. Not particularly threatening, but it seemed like a shower might be possible. SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations, Loopster, another Alaskan peak climbed!

Nothing to it, SPHP. Once past all those bushes yesterday, it’s been a blast.

Yes, it has been fun, Loop. Kind of a long march, though.

A chocolate coconut bar would help restore our energy levels, SPHP. You did bring another one, didn’t you?

Of course. Brought a few other supplies, too, Looper. How about we take a quick look around, then we’ll relax for a while.

Sitting on a tundra-covered rock, Lupe basked happily in the glorious success of her Paxson Mountain ascent. Beyond her was that wonderful view of Summit Lake and the Gulkana Glacier.

**Summit Lake** and the **Gulkana Glacier** (L of Center), and **Gakona Glacier** (far R) from **Paxson Mountain summit**. Photo looks NNE.

Looking E, a big river ran N/S between Wolverine Mountain (4,653 ft.), and low mountains of similar height even farther E. The Gakona Glacier feeding this river was in sight in the mountains to the N.

**Gakona River** (L & R) beyond **Wolverine Mountain** (R of Center) and the **green shed**. Photo looks ENE.

The Hungry Hollow lowlands were still off to the W. Flat Top Mountain was SW. Other mountains and domes were visible in these directions, too, but all those that were higher than Paxson Mountain were very far away. To the S, HP5200 partially blocked a view of Paxson Lake.

Lupe was getting anxious for that chocolate coconut bar. Relaxing on tundra below the true summit rocks near the S end of the ridge, SPHP shared one with her, plus a cool mint Cliff bar, the last of the beef jerky supply, and water. The Carolina Dog also enjoyed some Taste of the Wild before her eyes grew heavy. SPHP threw a light jacket over her, as Lupe put her head down and went to sleep.

Getting sleepy next to the **true summit** (L). Photo looks SSW.

Snoozing below the **true summit**. Flat Top Mountain (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

While Lupe dozed, SPHP munched on trail mix, then sat admiring the views for a long time.

8-23-23, 2:42 PM, 55ºF, Paxson Mountain – Rain showers never developed to clear the air to the S. Conditions otherwise remained excellent.

Oh, SPHP! I’ve been dreaming the most beautiful dreams! Is summit hour getting close to over yet?

You must have been really tired, Loopster. Summit hour was over nearly half an hour ago. No worries! It’s been magnificent just being here.

I slept that long, SPHP? I suppose we better get going.

Yeah, probably should, Loop. Hop up onto the true summit again for a minute, then we’ll head out.

Back on **Paxson Mountain’s true summit**. Photo looks S.

For few moments, Lupe was back up there, standing once again on the highest rock of all on Paxson Mountain. While starting the descent to the plateau below, SPHP encouraged the American Dingo to stay put. Compliance ended, however, as soon as SPHP disappeared from view during the short scramble lower.

You never want to take a chance on being left behind, do you, Looper?

Any decent pack sticks together, SPHP!

Don’t you know that I’ll never leave you, Loop? I just wanted to take your picture up there.

Just making sure, SPHP.

Well, that’s alright. C’mon, Loopster! We’ve got one more thing to do up here. Let’s head over to the S end of the plateau for a look at Paxson Lake.

It took only a few minutes to get there.

**Paxson Lake** and **HP5200** (R). Photo looks S.

Awesome view! Paxson Lake is really big, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yup. Like 10 miles long, but narrow, Loop.

Too bad I dreamt so long, SPHP. We could have gone on to HP5200. Bet the view is even better there.

Still possible, Loopster, but we should probably head back. Would be nice to get to the RAV4 this evening, and all those bushes would be a nightmare in the dark.

Lupe scouted a little along the E edge of the plateau, enjoying the big views before heading back to the green shed.

Along the **SE edge of the plateau**. **S end of Summit Lake** and **Gulkana Glacier** (far L), **Gakona Glacier** (R of Center). Photo looks NE.

**Paxson Mountain’s summit ridge** (Center) and the **green shed** from the **S end of the summit plateau**. Photo looks NNW.

Returning N, Lupe scrambled back up onto Paxson Mountain’s summit block. Not clear to the absolute top, but good enough for Dingo work.

Back on the **summit ridge**. Photo looks WSW.

Oh, that’s fabulous, Loopster! Thank you!

The rest of the return started well. The sky cleared somewhat, the day growing sunnier. Lupe had a wonderful time exploring on the way back to Peak 5226.

Approaching **Peak 5226’s true summit** (L) again. Photo looks N.

8-23-23, 4:55 PM, 55ºF, Peak 5226 –

We’re going to tag the true summit again, aren’t we, SPHP?

Absolutely, Looper! More than just tag it, too. My paws are getting pretty sore, so let’s finish your traditional summit hour here.

Returning to Peak 5226‘s true summit, SPHP removed wet boots and socks letting those sore paws bask in the sunshine for a while. The view looking back at Paxson Mountain was splendid in the sunlight.

**Paxson Mountain** (R) from **Peak 5226’s true summit** again. Photo looks SE.

Lupe more than completed her traditional summit hour on Peak 5226. So nice up here, and SPHP’s paws really needed the break. 40 minutes sailed by before SPHP felt like moving again. The sun was still going to be up for quite a while, but was starting to slide toward the NW horizon.

**Tangle Benchmark** (Center) and **Peak 4790** (R) from **Peak 5226’s summit ridge**. Photo looks NW.

8-23-23, 7:23 PM, 62ºF, Base Camp, 0.75 mile WSW of HP4626 – Hobbling painfully back to the tiny house, SPHP rejoiced while removing boots and socks again. Such a lovely evening, and the beautiful ordeal on the way back from Peak 5226 was finally over!

This is it, Loopster! We’re staying right here tonight. No way my paws can take a multi-hour bushwhack now. We’ll do it tomorrow morning.

Fine with me, SPHP! Unzip the door to the tiny house, please. I’m ready to curl up on my red sleeping bag. By the way, what’s for dinner?

Nothing. We’ve consumed everything on our way back here. I didn’t bring that many supplies, I’d been so confident that we’d make it back to the RAV4 tonight. Would have, too, if it weren’t for my painful paws.

8-24-23, Early, Base Camp – Lupe wanted out of the tiny house. SPHP let her go. A cool, overcast morning. SPHP thought nothing of it as fog drifted down among the lowlands of Hungry Hollow. The first part of the night had been tough, but, thankfully, SPHP’s paws were feeling somewhat better now. Lupe returned.

Why aren’t you getting ready to go, SPHP? How are your paws?

Better, but what’s the rush? Another couple of hours of rest won’t hurt a thing, will it, Looper? Besides, it’s nice and cozy in the sleeping bag.

The Carolina Dog had no objections to resuming her comfortable slumber.

8-24-23, Base Camp, 2 hours later – Trouble! SPHP’s reverie was broken by the sound of rain on the tiny house. When the rain didn’t quit within 20 minutes, SPHP nudged the American Dingo.

Loopster, wake up! We’ve got to get out of here.

Why? What’s going on, SPHP?

Rain! We’ll get drenched if we don’t get to the RAV4, ASAP! I’ll pack up in here, and as soon as there’s a lull, we’re getting out.

A lull soon came. Still raining, but very lightly. Lupe got herself soaking wet as soon as she left the tiny house, rolling on the wet tundra. SPHP sprang into action, packing the tiny house up, then hoisting the pack.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Heading N across the level tundra plain, Lupe made rapid progress. Soon she was starting the descent down into the dreaded land of tall bushes. Although it never did rain hard again, the damage was done. SPHP stayed dry only as far as Caribou Hollow. From there a long, wretched trek through the tall bushes was simply unavoidable.

Too late! All the vegetation was already soaking wet. Bushes towering over even SPHP’s head rained cloudbursts down at every touch. Going N or NNW, this time the Carolina Dog’s mission was to head straight for the Denali Highway by the shortest possible route. It was a struggle through bogs and a wilderness of bushes, relieved only by occasional open lanes allowing a welcome spurt forward. Fortunately, in this lower region, Lupe didn’t come to any of the ravines she’d had to cross farther E.

The miserable march finally came to an end. Cold and drenched, Lupe reached the Denali Highway 700 feet from the RAV4 beneath a gray sky of eternal gloom. (End, 8-24-23, 10:15 AM)

On **Paxson Mountain**, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska 8-23-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track & Ascent Statistics

Denali Highway No. 8 Map & Brochure

Peak 4790 & Peak 4403, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska (9-2-19)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Mount Chester Henderson, Ogilvie Mountains, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-20-23)

Part 2 of Day 28 & Day 29 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-19-23, 1:39 PM – As always, the relaxing drive up the Engineer Creek valley, over Windy Pass, and thence up the Blackstone River valley had been gorgeous.

We’re getting close to the N end of Tombstone Territorial Park, Looper. Want to stop at Chapman Lake, and get out for a sniff?

Will we be able to see Distincta Peak, SPHP?

Doubt it. We’re too far S already, Loop.

Too bad, SPHP. I’m always ready for a sniff, though!

**Chapman Lake** near the **N end of Tombstone Territorial Park**. Photo looks N.

8-19-23, 2:15 PM, Dempster Highway near km 96 – The Chapman Lake sniff had been a short one, just enough to stretch a bit and have a look around. Now at the lower section of a roomy two-tier pullout on the E side of the highway, Lupe was going to get to stay here longer, yet the Carolina Dog seemed content resting on her pink blanket in the RAV4.

Just going to lie there waiting for lunch, Loop? If you get out, I’ll throw a ball for you.

What’s on the menu, SPHP?

Dinty Moore chicken and dumplings. Won’t take long to heat them up.

Sounds good! Make sure you save plenty for me, SPHP. I’m famished!

After lunch, Lupe did get out to have a look at the bubbling pond and chase a ball. SPHP did some cleaning and straightening up of the RAV4. More than 2 hours had flown by the time Lupe hit the road S again.

Play ball! **Rule No. 1** – the Dingo always wins. Photo looks NW.

By the **bubbling pond**, a traditional stop. Photo looks E.

On the way to North Fork Pass, SPHP stopped for a look at the beautiful upper East Blackstone River. After going over the pass, Lupe escaped the RAV4 at a big pullout with a famous view. Far in the distance, beyond the upper end of the North Klondike River valley, the sharp spire of Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) touched the clouds.

Upper **East Blackstone River** from the **Dempster Highway**. Photo looks SSW.

**Tombstone Mountain** (Center) beyond the **North Klondike River valley**. Photo looks SW.

Much closer, another mountain of more immediate interest was in sight.

See that big ridge to the SE, Loopster? That’s your objective tomorrow, Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.), also known as Discovery Ridge!

Awesome, SPHP! What’s that pointy peak to the L?

That’s Mount Robert Henderson (6,998 ft.), Loop.

It’s clearly higher, SPHP. We ought to climb it, too!

I’d love to, Loop! If we’ve got time, we’ll take a stab at it.

**Mount Chester Henderson** (Center) aka **Discovery Ridge**. **Mount Robert Henderson** (L) from the **Tombstone Mountain pullout**. Photo looks SE.

8-19-23, 5:15 PM, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, km 71.5 –

That was quick, SPHP. What did you find out?

About what I expected, Looper. We shouldn’t have dilly-dallied so much. The Interpretive Centre closed at 5:00 PM. Think we know what we need to do, though. I’m going to use one of the picnic tables to heat up some chili for dinner, then we’ll go see if we can find the Charcoal Ridge trail.

Both dinner and the reconnaisance mission were successful. The trail was right where it was supposed to be, on the S side of Charcoal Creek, a little N of the Interpretive Centre, directly across from the campground.

8-19-23, 8:59 PM – A big pullout along the North Klondike River well S of the Interpretive Centre would do for the night. The evening sky was beautiful, raising great hopes for tomorrow.

Late evening at the pullout along the North Klondike River.

Wow! I don’t think we’ve ever seen such wonderful weather in Tombstone Territorial Park before, SPHP.

Believe you’re right, Loop. If tomorrow is anything like this, it’s going to be a fantastic day! We’re all set and well-positioned for it, too. We’ll hit the Charcoal Ridge trail bright and early.

Maybe we’ll make it to both Hendersons, SPHP!

Oh, I hope so, Looper. That would be above and beyond expectations.

8-20-23, 7:57 AM, 46ºF, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, km 71.5 – SPHP had already shared beef stew with Lupe, and had a vanilla Equate. Overcast this morning. Disappointing, but the clouds were high and light. Everything was ready, and the American Dingo was rarin’ to go.

What’s the holdup, SPHP?

Don’t see my poles, Loop. Soon as I find them, we’ll be on our way.

The poles weren’t in their usual spot. Where could they be? SPHP tore the back of the RAV4 apart. Nothing.

Oh, my gosh! They aren’t here, Loop. The poles aren’t in the RAV4!

Ridiculous, SPHP! You always bring them. Think back. Did you misplace them when you were cleaning the RAV4 at the bubbling pond?

Hmm. No, I don’t remember seeing them there, Loopster, but I wasn’t looking for them, either. They were the last thing on my mind, since we weren’t going to use them there.

Oh, come on! Where was the last place you remember having them, SPHP?

A logical and easy question to answer. It dawned on SPHP in a flash.

Criminitly! Think I know where they are! Get in the RAV4, Looper. We’re heading back.

Back where, SPHP?

Sapper Hill.

What! You left them on the mountain, SPHP?

No. Not likely. You know how when we return from a trek, I often lean the poles up against the RAV4 before breaking them down and putting them in? Well, I bet I never did that. They were probably still leaning against the RAV4 yesterday when we just drove off and left them, Loop.

Sapper Hill, that’s such a long way! How far back is that?

Nearly 125 km one way, Loopster. So much for Robert Henderson today, maybe Chester, too!

Even if you’re right, SPHP, someone may have found your poles and taken them by now.

Yeah. Nothing we can do about that, Loop. I might have run over them backing out, too. We’ll see.

A minute later, in an unexpected twist of fate, instead of setting out for Mount Chester Henderson, Lupe was back on her pink blanket in the RAV4 heading N.

8-20-23, 10:27 AM, 56ºF – Driving over the bridge over Engineer Creek, SPHP then turned R off the Dempster Highway into the parking area that had served as the trailhead for Sapper Hill (3,084 ft.). Oh, joy!

Luck of the Dingo! There they are, Loopster. My Leki poles!

You didn’t run over them, either, SPHP. They look fine.

SPHP ran out to grab the poles, put them in their customary place in the RAV4, and Lupe was on her way back S.

8-20-23, 1:08 PM, 55ºF, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, km 71.5 – SPHP parked the RAV4 at the empty overflow parking lot.

We’ll stash the RAV4 here since we won’t be getting back until late, Loop. When I said we’d be getting an early start today, I never meant early in the afternoon, yet here we are. We’re still doing this today, right?

Lupe hopped out of the RAV4. The sky was more darkly overcast than it had been this morning.

**Tombstone Interpretive Centre** (L), **Goldensides Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

What’s the forecast for tomorrow, SPHP?

60% chance of rain, Loop.

This looks good, SPHP!

Yeah, kind of now or never, Looper. Onward! Puppy, ho!

After heading over to the E side of the Dempster Highway, Lupe sniffed her way N in the ditch to Charcoal Creek. Picking up the trail along the S bank, the American Dingo followed it NE into a valley full of trees and tall bushes. Almost right away, a familiar sight was ahead.

On the **Charcoal Creek Trail**. **Goldensides Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.)! Remember being up there, Loop?

Goldensides was a fun one, SPHP! The whole mountain lived up to its name that day! The fall colors were spectacular, and I really enjoyed the big scramble up the rocks on the S side of the mountain.

Charcoal Creek was a small stream with decent flow. The trail never strayed far from it. Lupe came to many overgrown spots and large branches in the way along its banks, as well as some damp regions of soft, black mud. None of these obstacles were all that difficult to get by, although it was easy to see that some regions were prone to flooding.

Off to the E, a hill was soon in sight. In order to reach the ridge leading to Mount Chester Henderson, Lupe was going to have to climb it.

**W end of the ridge** (R) leading to Mount Chester Henderson. Photo looks E.

In a recently flooded region along **Charcoal Creek**. Photo looks NE.

After following Charcoal Creek for roughly 0.30 km, the trail veered off to the R, climbing a steep bank up into a region of tall bushes. The hill, which was the W end of Charcoal Ridge, was now directly E.

Hopelessly lost down in a thickly overgrown jungle she couldn’t begin to see over, Lupe followed the often deeply rutted trail toward the hill. The trail was gooshy in many places, leaving SPHP trying to avoid frequent stretches of soft, slippery, black mud. Lupe had little choice but to plod right through them.

Closing in on the base of the hill, the rate of climb increased. The bushes began getting shorter, allowing Lupe to finally catch glimpses what was ahead. The American Dingo soon reached a clearing that was very wet. Ripe blueberries were abundant in this region, slowing SPHP’s progress.

Heading for the **W end of Charcoal Ridge** (Center). Photo looks E.

At the **wet clearing**. Photo looks ENE.

Lupe gained 200 feet of elevation before getting beyond the last of the wet regions, and more than twice that before the wild blueberries came to an end. The trail became very steep as it went directly up the hill. The bushes went on and on, SPHP sometimes using them for support. They didn’t start to thin out until the Carolina Dog had gained 800 feet of elevation. At this point, the trail began to switchback to some degree.

By the time Lupe had gained 900 feet of elevation, she was in the alpine, above all the tall bushes on more open ground. Still lots of lower bushes around, but they were only a foot high. A mix of tundra and small scree completed the scene. The last 50 feet hadn’t been all that steep, but the big climb had been wearying.

8-20-23, 2:55 PM, W end of Charcoal Ridge – A couple of low hills capped by small rock outcroppings were now ahead. SPHP dropped the pack, and sat down on the tundra.

Let’s take a short break, Loop.

Lupe was happy to lie down next to SPHP. The views back to the W were already impressive. Way down in the North Klondike River valley, both the Tombstone Interpretive Centre and campground were clearly visible on the other side of the Dempster Highway. The bright blue RAV4, sitting alone in the overflow parking lot was easy to spot, too. Toward the SW, Peak 6246, a subpeak of Fold Mountain, towered above it all.

**Peak 6246** (L). **Tombstone Interpretive Centre** (R of Center), **campground** (R), and **Dempster Highway** in the valley below. Photo looks SW.

Looks to me like we could climb Peak 6246, SPHP.

It does! Maybe someday we will, Loopster. I’ll try to remember to put it on your list of possibilities.

Peak 7200 and North Fork Mountain (6,000 ft.) were also in view, over by the big bend where the North Klondike River sweeps down from its upper valley, where Lupe had seen Tombstone Mountain in the distance yesterday.

**Peak 7200** (L of Center), **North Fork Mountain** (R). **North Klondike River** (Center). Photo looks W.

Plenty more to see from here. Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.) was less than 3 km almost due N, and Lupe could see a long way S down the North Klondike River valley. However, the Carolina Dog still had a long way to go, and the fun, easy part of the journey was now ahead. After sharing beef jerky and water, Lupe was ready to move on.

The first rocky rise to the E wasn’t far from the break spot.

Might as well tag some of these high points along the way, SPHP.

Sure! Go for it, Loopster!

Approaching the **first two high points** (Center & R). Photo looks E.

The views from the first high point weren’t all that different. After a quick look, Lupe continued on to the second one. From here, she had an excellent view of Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.). The top of Mount Robert Henderson (6,998 ft.) was in sight, too.

**Tombstone campground** (L), **Peak 7200** (L of Center), **North Klondike River** (Center), **North Fork Mountain** (R) from the **first high point**. Photo looks W.

Heading for the **second high point** (R). Photo looks E.

**North Klondike River valley** (Center) from the **second high point**. Photo looks S.

**Mount Chester Henderson** (Center), **Mount Robert Henderson** (L). Photo looks E.

From this second high point, Lupe also had a better view of what was ahead. More hills were in sight along Charcoal Ridge, including HP5400 at the far E end where Lupe would eventually turn SE toward Mount Chester Henderson.

**Charcoal Ridge** (L & Center) from the **second high point**. **HP5400** (R of Center) at the lower end of the ridge coming down from the R. Photo looks E.

The third high point along Charcoal Ridge was bigger and farther away. The trail climbed NE toward it, eventually leveling out shortly before reaching a small cairn perched along a sharp edge. From this cairn, Blackcap Mountain (6,000 ft.) was starting to come into view beyond Goldensides, and the upper regions of the Charcoal Creek valley were visible for the first time.

**Blackcap Mountain** (L), **upper Charcoal Creek valley** (R). Photo looks NE.

**Mount Robert Henderson** (L), **Mount Chester Henderson** (R), **Charcoal Ridge** in the foreground. Photo looks E.

The cairn wasn’t quite at the top of the third hill, but a little way from it. Going over to the high point, the view back to the W showed that Lupe had already gained substantial elevation since leaving the first two hills. Interesting, but what really mattered was what was ahead. Looking E, there were actually some dips along Charcoal Ridge on the way to HP5000, the fourth high point.

**Peak 6246** (L), **second high point** (L of Center) below, **first high point** (beyond Lupe) way down near the W end of Charcoal Ridge, **Peak 7200** (R edge). Photo looks WSW.

**HP5000** (far L), **Mount Robert Henderson** (L), **Mount Chester Henderson** (R). Photo looks E.

As the American Dingo continued E along Charcoal Ridge, she hit all the high points. The trail was easy to follow and generally gained elevation, but with significant flat and downhill sections, too. The ridge narrowed as Lupe went along until it was only 10 feet wide, or even less in spots.

Approaching **HP5000** (L of Center), Photo looks E.

A quick glance back from **HP5000**. **Second high point** (L) and **third high point** (Center) farther down the ridge. Photo looks W.

Most of the time the trail ran right along the crest of the ridge. Beyond deep valleys on both sides, Lupe enjoyed increasingly spectacular views of Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.) and Blackcap Mountain (6,000 ft.) to the N, and Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.) to the SE.

**Goldensides Mountain** (L), **Blackcap Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

**Mount Chester Henderson** aka **Discovery Ridge** from **Charcoal Ridge**. Photo looks SE.

Heading for **HP5400** (L), **Mount Robert Henderson** (L of Center), **Mount Chester Henderson** (R). Photo looks E.

Charcoal Ridge wasn’t scary or dangerous. Overall progress was as good as SPHP’s aerobic capacity would allow. Such a fun trek! Approaching the E end of the ridge, the trail curved SE, intersecting the ridge leading to Mount Chester Henderson without tagging HP5400.

Near a little **knob** on the way to **HP5400** (far L). **Mount Robert Henderson** (L), **Mount Chester Henderson** (R). Photo looks E.

Skipping HP5400 wasn’t going to do, though. The Carolina Dog had to visit this important point!

**Peak 7200** (L) and **Goldensides Mountain** (R) from **HP5400**. Photo looks WNW.

8-20-23, 4:49 PM, E end of Charcoal Ridge – HP5400 was a significant point along the journey. Lupe enjoyed new views here. Off to the NNE was a region of flat highlands and small mountains with higher peaks in the distance. One of the highest peaks was a real eye-catcher due to an unusual sawtooth summit ridge.

What mountain is that, SPHP? It doesn’t look like any of the others.

I have no idea, Loop. Might not even have a name since those peaks aren’t that close to the highway.

An easily recognizable peak like that ought to have a name, SPHP. Plenty of people must have seen it from here.

Well, what do you suggest, Loopster? And no, it can’t be Squirrel Peak or Dingo Mountain, or anything like that.

How about Serrated Mountain, SPHP?

Oh, I like that, Looper. Fits, and it’s an unusual name.

**Serrated Mountain** (L) in the distance. Photo looks NNE.

A more complete view of Mount Robert Henderson was also available from the HP5400 region.

**Mount Robert Henderson** (Center) from the **E end of Charcoal Ridge**. Photo looks E.

**Mount Chester Henderson** from **HP5400**. Photo looks SE.

The weather hadn’t changed much. Still overcast with a 10 mph breeze. Encouragingly, not a drop of rain so far. From HP5400, another ridge ran SE directly toward Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.). While this ridge was no problem, exactly how to get to the summit wasn’t clear at all. Horizontal bands of rock ran all along a very steep upper rim.

On the ridge leading to **Mount Chester Henderson**. Photo looks SE.

I don’t know, Looper. Sure looks like a line of cliffs up there!

The trail keeps going, SPHP. Why don’t we just follow it?

Yeah, that did seem like the obvious thing to do.

Looking back down the **Charcoal Creek valley**. Photo looks W.

Near the end of the approach, the increasingly faint trail left the top of the SE ridge to skirt along the W side of a hill of scree. Once around this hill, Lupe lost 40 feet of elevation on the way down to a broad saddle of tundra. Another scree slope was now ahead with more tundra above it. Hundreds of feet higher, the line of cliffs along the upper rim of Mount Chester Henderson towered above all.

Skirting the **scree hill**. Photo looks SE.

Down at the **tundra saddle**. Photo looks SE.

So far, so good, SPHP.

True, but this is where it starts getting interesting, Loopster.

What was left of the trail clearly went right on up the scree slope ahead. Following it, Lupe reached the region of tundra above the scree. As the American Dingo kept climbing, she crossed little streams trickling down the increasingly steep slope.

Lupe was at about 5,800 feet when a choice had to be made. Impassable cliffs were directly ahead.

We either have to go E or W around these cliffs, Loop. Any ideas?

E, SPHP. The trail was trending that way when I last had a scent.

Yeah, I kind of thought E looked best, too, from a distance, Looper, but can’t see that territory now that we’re on this slope. The tundra extends even higher over toward the W. Looks a little like there might be a route up above it. Hard to say without climbing way up there.

Check your map, SPHP.

I already did, Loop. Definitely some easier territory over to the E toward Mount Robert Henderson, if we can get to it. Not sure if we can.

I vote E, SPHP.

It’s unanimous then, Loopster.

Angling ESE while still climbing, Lupe left the cohesive security of the tundra. Nothing but steep slopes of loose rock ahead. Surprisingly deep and steep ravines were sometimes negotiable, and sometimes forced the Carolina Dog higher. At 6,000 feet, the base of the cliffs was still quite a bit higher. They weren’t that big, but didn’t have any breaks that looked like reasonable routes through them.

On the increasingly **steep slopes**. **Mount Robert Henderson** (L). Photo looks E.

Lupe kept angling ESE. The steep loose slopes went on and on. Still no decent breaks in the cliff line above, and the L shoulder of the mountain still wasn’t in sight. SPHP was getting impatient. This cautious traverse while rocks clattered down the mountain was chewing up a bunch of time. Eventually, Lupe wasn’t that far from the base of the cliffs.

Near the **base of the cliffs**. Photo looks S.

The cliffs eventually began to shrink. Short chutes where it looked like it might be fairly easy to scramble above them appeared.

Let’s head up here, Loop.

SPHP soon regretted that decision. The cliffs bands were taller than they looked. Although there was some solid exposed bedrock, lots of the rock was rotten. The scramble got scary. It looked like there were plenty of pawholds, but big chunks that appeared well-anchored crumbled away and went crashing down the mountain.

Halfway up a near vertical section, nothing was solid. It all wanted to move. Somehow Lupe scrambled up to a dangerous little shelf above and to the R of SPHP. The American Dingo stood there on the brink of destruction smiling down on SPHP like everything was cool.

Stay put, Loop! Don’t move! Just stay right there! You’re in a terrible spot, and this whole chunk of the mountain I’m clinging to feels like it’s about to give way. If it starts to go, climb if you can, or you’ll go with me!

Heart racing, very carefully and gently, oh so gently, testing everything, SPHP managed to creep above the worst spot.

Didn’t listen to a word I said, did you, Looper? How did you get up there?

Still smiling, Lupe was higher yet, still above SPHP, but now to the L. A sense of relief flooded in over SPHP. She was at a much better spot. The top appeared to be only a few feet above the Carolina Mountain Goat.

You’ve got it made now, Loop. Just go to the top! I’ll join you shortly.

Lupe vanished above the rim. Not the top. The cliff bands extended 40 or 50 feet higher. Fortunately, none were as steep, loose, or dangerous as what had already been negotiated.

8-20-23, 6:33 PM – As the tilt of the cliff bands suggested, Lupe now stood on a gentle, tundra-covered slope above them, a grand panorama of an enormous valley before her with many ridges and mountains beyond it. The sky was no longer completely overcast, and regions of sunshine drifted over the scene.

The **grand panorama** above the cliffs. Photo looks S.

This is the side of the mountain we should have come up, SPHP. So easy!

Maybe we’ll be going back this way, Loopster. We’re sure not descending the same way we just came up. C’mon, the summit’s in sight off to the SW. Let’s get to the top of this beast!

Heading for **Mount Chester Henderson’s true summit** (L). Photo looks SW.

The true summit was a hill of talus, both farther back from the cliff line and farther SW than SPHP expected. Descending 50 feet on tundra to minimize the amount talus Lupe would have to cross to get there, the rest of the trek was a gradual ascent along tundra-covered slopes.

The summit hill proved to be an easy walkup.

Closing in on the **true summit** (R). Photo looks SW.

8-20-23, 6:53 PM, 46ºF, Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.) – In a chilly 15 mph SW breeze beneath a partly cloudy sky, Lupe stood on the highest rock of a true summit region roughly 25 feet in diameter. This area was about as flat as it could be covered by big rocks.

At **Mount Chester Henderson’s true summit**. Photo looks WSW.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations, Loop! We made it! I must commend your fearlessness and tremendous scrambling skills.

Oh, Ye of little faith! Was there ever any doubt, SPHP?

For a few minutes on those rotten cliffs, yes, I had serious doubts!

All the more reason to celebrate with a chocolate coconut bar, SPHP!

Certainly, but first, a look around. With so many clouds present, I don’t want to take a chance on the weather deteriorating and hiding everything.

Mount Chester Henderson’s summit was an amazing place! Far to the WSW, Mount Frank Rae (7,700 ft.), Mount Monolith (7,000 ft.), and even the tip of Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) were all in sight, yet SPHP didn’t recognize them amid the gloom in that direction.

4.5 km NW, very easily recognizable, the American Dingo looked down on Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.), a summit where she had once been. Blackcap Mountain (6,000 ft.) was NE of Goldensides. Beyond these two, both Angelcomb Peak (6,300 ft.) and Trapper Mountain (6,627 ft.) were visible in the distance. Serrated Mountain was NNE.

**Goldensides** (Center), **Angelcomb Peak** (by Lupe’s ear), **Trapper Mountain** (R) above her back. Photo looks NW.

**Serrated Mountain** (L). Photo looks NE.

Zoomed in on **Serrated Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

The view of Mount Robert Henderson (6,998 ft.), only 3 km back to the ENE, was both awesome and discouraging.

Looks like could get pretty high, but realistically, I doubt Robert will ever be in the cards for us, Loopster. Appears beyond our capabilities.

Don’t give up so easy, SPHP. The back side might not be that bad.

Well, maybe. The topo map seems to agree with you, Looper, but, in any case, we don’t have time to check it out today.

**Mount Robert Henderson** (R of Center). Photo looks ENE.

Countless more mountains were to the S, none of which SPHP had any clue about. Looking down Mount Chester Henderson’s long SW ridge, the North Klondike River valley was flanked on both sides by some of these mountains as the stream flowed away to its eventual rendezvous with the Yukon River at Dawson City.

**North Klondike River valley** (L of Center), **Mount Chester Henderson’s SW ridge** (R). Photo looks SW.

Enough already, SPHP! How about that chocolate coconut bar?

Fine! Chilly up here in the wind, anyway. Please stay just another minute or two, Loop, then I’ll call you down, and we’ll take a break.

Atop **Mount Chester Henderson**, waiting for the signal. Photo looks SW.

That’s good, Loop! Come on down!

8-20-23, 7:10 PM – NE of the summit and 30 feet lower, Lupe rested on the tundra somewhat sheltered from the wind, enjoying a moment of sunshine until the next cloud would sweep by. SPHP shared not only a chocolate coconut bar, but beef jerky and water with the Carolina Dog, then let her polish off the rest of the Taste of the Wild.

While Lupe crunched away, SPHP munched on the last of the trail mix. Back to the NE, much of the region above the cliffs Lupe had crossed on the way here was in view, also in sunshine. Mount Robert Henderson was in shadow, but overall, the sky seemed to be clearing somewhat.

Resting **a little NE of the summit**. **Mount Robert Henderson** (R). Photo looks NE.

Have you decided yet how were going to get down, SPHP? Are we going to explore the valley to the SE? Looks beautiful and easy. No cliffs that way!

If we have to, we will, Loop. I checked the map. We wouldn’t have to ford the North Klondike River in order to get back to the Dempster Highway, but I’m afraid that once we got low enough, we’d wind up in an atrocious wilderness bushwhack.

What else can we do, SPHP?

We’re going to go back the way we came, Loopster, but farther E toward Mount Robert Henderson. I want to see if we can just go around the E end of the cliffs, and still get back to the Charcoal Ridge Trail.

The views were magnificent. The time flew. Too bad about the fiasco with the poles. Lupe should have had hours to roam around exploring up here. However, as things stood, the sun was sinking, and it was a long way back.

45 minutes after arriving, Lupe returned to the summit. The chill SW breeze was still blowing, but it was sunnier now.

Back at the **summit**. Photo looks SSW.

One more look, and we better go, Loop. If we end up bushwhacking, I don’t want to be doing it in the dark.

It was all so beautiful! The most meaningful view, though, was to the NW where at least two peaks Lupe had been to years ago were in sight, Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.) and Angelcomb Peak (6,300 ft.).

That ridge in the distance, is that Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.), SPHP?

Maybe, but it’s too far away, Loop. I can’t tell for sure.

**Goldensides Mountain** (L), **Angelcomb Peak** (Center), **Blackcap Mountain** (R of Center), **Trapper Mountain** (R). Photo looks NW.

In the end, going farther ENE toward Mount Robert Henderson worked. Lupe avoided the cliffs, forced only to make a longer traverse along the steep loose slopes below them before rejoining the Charcoal Ridge Trail.

Contemplating **Mount Robert Henderson** (R) before heading over the edge and off to the L. Photo looks NE.

The sun was still up, and virtually all of Charcoal Ridge was in view as Lupe headed back to HP5400 where she would turn W and follow it. And then, the strangest thing happened.

Returning to **Charcoal Ridge** (foreground). **Peak 7200** (L), **Goldensides Mountain** (R). Photo looks WNW.

Approaching **HP5400** (Center). **Goldensides Mountain** (L), **Blackcap Mountain** (R), with **Angelcomb** **Peak** between them. Photo looks NW.

Without the least warning, or any precedent for it, the Carolina Dog was suddenly seized by a powerful sneezing fit.

What’s wrong, Loopster? Did you sniff something that got stuck in your nose? Come, let me take a look.

Lupe cooperated with an examination.

ACHOOO! Do you see anything in my nose, SPHP?

No. I don’t, but then it’s a long nose, and I can’t see far up it at all, Loop. Does it feel like you’ve got something stuck in there, or do you suddenly have allergies?

ACHOOO! I don’t know, SPHP. What are .. ACHOOO, allergies? ACHOOO, ACHOOO!

An instant onset of a formerly unknown allergy seemed unlikely, but SPHP had no way of seeing, much less removing, whatever had flown up the American Dingo’s nose. No amount of sneezing, no matter how Dingo-shaking seemed capable of dislodging the culprit, either.

Lupe shook her head violently after each mighty ACHOOO to no effect, which surely must have detracted from her enjoyment of the gorgeous trek down Charcoal Ridge. (End, 11:20 PM, 49ºF)