Days 6 & 7 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2024 Dingo Vacation to Colorado, Utah, Wyoming & Montana!
6-21-24, after dark, pullout along Fall River Road, W of Idaho Springs – Finally all caught up! SPHP closed the trip journal. The day had started out most excellently with a delicious breakfast provided by Hotel Dixie prior to departure this morning. However, during the afternoon there’d been an abrupt change, a shocking realization that made this day one of the saddest ones ever. Nothing to be done about it, though. Might as well get some sleep.
6-22-24, the wee hours – Suddenly awake, SPHP saw moonlight. The rain must have ended. A dark figure extended a gentle paw, tapping SPHP’s shoulder again, a little harder this time.
Ugh! Seriously, Loop? I need to sleep! You’re already all wet. How many times do you have to do this? You aren’t going to have any more success now than before.
Sorry, SPHP. Please let me out. I just can’t sleep thinking about it. I know it’s still there!
SPHP opened the door, and the Carolina Dog dashed out once more to search for the packrat that was still hitching a ride in the RAV4’s engine compartment. It had been there for days now, refusing to leave.
Day by day, the packrat’s squeaks were getting fainter. Without food or water, the poor thing was going to die, if it didn’t have sense enough to abandon the RAV4. Won’t happen now with Lupe all excited, circling and sniffing in the night, but that wasn’t the American Dingo’s fault. The packrat had already had countless opportunities to move on safely, yet had refused to take advantage of any of them, and all of SPHP’s efforts to forcibly dislodge it had been abject failures.
6-22-24 – Following a period of predawn peace, the gentle, insistent paw was back yet again. Light out! Morning had arrived. SPHP released the would-be predator once more.
Unsurprisingly, the stubborn packrat had not made it’s escape. Hiding in it’s RAV4 engine compartment fortress, it provided Lupe another happy hour of enthusiastic barking at the unreachable rodent before SPHP put an end to it.
Enough already, Looper! Backpack’s ready. Get in the RAV4. It’s onward, puppy ho time!
6-22-24, 7:40 AM – After a steep uphill drive, Fall River Road leveled out. SPHP began seeing signs advertising $20 per day parking at lots near the St. Marys Glacier trailhead. If willing to drive a little farther and hike back, other signs promised a half price deal – a mere $10 daily fee.
No great secret which option you’ll choose, is it, SPHP?
And why not? 10 bucks saved, is 10 bucks earned, Loopster.
The $10 per day parking lot was near the end of Fall River Road, right across from Silver Lake. Plenty of spaces remaining, too. In fact, only 2 vehicles were present. Other than that, the giant lot was empty. SPHP parked the RAV4 near the S edge of the lot, close to the trees.
Let’s have a look around, Loop.
Signs saying “Pay Here” were on an old log building just E of the parking lot. SPHP went over to investigate. The log building appeared to be all shuttered up and abandoned. Nearby, 3 credit card payment stations were all wrapped in plastic and non-functional.
Huh. Maybe they couldn’t make a go of it on only $10 per day, Looper?
20 bucks it is then, SPHP! Can we take a quick look at Silver Lake before we drive back to one of the pricey parking lots?
Sure. Why not?
Silver Lake was sweet, nestled in a beautiful mountain setting.
Gorgeous! I like this territory, SPHP. Not a cloud in the sky, either!
Yup, sure looks like we’re in for a fabulous day, Loopster. Let’s move the RAV4 to a lot open for business, pay the fee, and get going.
6-22-24, 7:55 AM, 51ºF – Before Lupe even got back to the RAV4, another vehicle suddenly appeared. Sure enough, the $10 parking lot attendant sprang out! Said he was running nearly an hour late this morning, but $10 would absolutely suffice here. SPHP happily paid the discounted fee, and a certain Carolina Dog was on her way.
An easy, paved hike of 0.3 mile back along Fall River Road past several private cabins led to a very rocky side road.
This must be the way, Loop.
The old jeep route was super wide and littered with so many rocks, it seemed like additional rocks had been deliberately hauled in, although that didn’t make any sense at all.
0.25 mile led to a well-beaten, narrower path through the forest that felt more private. 350 feet of elevation gain brought Lupe to St. Mary’s Lake.
St. Mary’s Lake was about the size of Silver Lake, and every bit as lovely. Dead trees stood along the near shore, opposite the steep lower E slopes of Peak 11732. A little above and beyond the N end of the lake, the toe of St. Mary’s Glacier was already in sight.
This appeared to be a very popular region. Several people were hanging out at the lake, and even more were over by the glacier. Exploring the E shore of St. Mary’s Lake, Lupe waded into the cold water for a drink.
Glacier-fed, the outlet stream leaving St. Mary’s Lake had excellent flow. A slightly arched metal grate bridge made getting over to the N side of the stream a cinch.
After crossing the bridge, a broad, gritty path quickly led up to a region of tall bushes along the edge of the forest. The trail became braided in this region, with a number of alternate routes through bushes or forest all leading to the toe of the glacier.
On the way to the toe of St. Mary’s Glacier, SPHP saw 6 people start up it. When Lupe got to the toe, all 6 were already out of sight. Everyone else seemed perfectly content to hang around right here, enjoying the views of Fox Mountain (10,947 ft.) and St. Mary’s Lake.
What’s that really big peak way beyond St. Mary’s Lake, SPHP?
Believe that’s Mount Blue Sky (14,267 ft.), Loop. Formerly Mount Evans.
Where is this James Peak (13,271 ft.) that we’re supposed to be climbing today, SPHP?
Above and beyond St. Mary’s Glacier, Looper.
Really! Are we going to climb the glacier, SPHP? That would be cool! Or do you mean that we’re just going to follow along beside it?
I suppose it’s safest to just follow these trails N of the glacier, Loop.
Yeah, well, that only worked until it didn’t. After gaining some elevation alongside the glacier, the rocky dirt paths next to it all came to an abrupt end. Nothing but glacier ahead!
St. Mary’s Glacier was still rather steep at this point.
I can climb it, SPHP. No sweat! Can you?
Oh, I think so, Looper. St. Mary’s Glacier isn’t that big. Doesn’t even seem like a real glacier to me. Just looks like a big snow bank. Not that icy, and I seriously doubt there are any crevasses. Onward! Puppy, ho!
Even without much iciness, the snow was hard and slippery. SPHP’s poles were a big help maintaining traction. Although not all that wide, and quite short even lengthwise according to the topo map, St. Mary’s Glacier went on farther than expected. Lupe enjoyed chomping chunks of glacier snow while SPHP plodded higher.
Would have been possible to leave the glacier well before reaching the end, but by the time that opportunity materialized, St. Mary’s Glacier was no longer as steep. The Carolina Dog was enjoying the glacier trek, so she simply stuck with it.
St. Mary’s Glacier wasn’t steep at all as Lupe approached its upper end, where the last bit of glacier forked into 2 different shallow ravines. Up here, Peak 11732 was merely a gently-sloping hill along the ridge to the SW. Farther away, Kingstone Peak (12,153 ft.) was also in sight off to the N. Both looked like easy climbs.
Venturing onto the point of ground between St. Mary’s Glacier’s last snowfields, the American Dingo’s true objective was dead ahead.
James Peak (13,271 ft.)! That’s got to be it, SPHP! Still a ways off, and a big climb, but even it really doesn’t look all that hard.
Righto, Loop. Ought to be cake, other than the required elevation gain. We’ll be running into the Continental Divide Trail (CDT), which goes right over James Peak. In fact, I believe I already see a trail leaving St. Mary’s Glacier off to our L.
After angling over to the trail already in view, Lupe followed it WNW. Beyond Peak 11732, the trail leveled out almost completely on a broad, gently sloping plain of tundra, low bushes, and scree. From St. Mary’s Glacier to where the final ascent of James Peak would get significantly steeper was a pleasant trek of more than 1.5 miles. Approaching James Peak, views of nearby Mount Bancroft (13,261 ft.) and Parry Peak (13,366 ft.) improved steadily, as well.
Receding snow had left portions of the terrain soft and damp. In several places, standing water covered the trail, but no more than a few inches deep. Lupe eventually came to USFS Road No. 353.1. Crossing the road, it wasn’t much farther to the CDT. Throughout this march, Mount Blue Sky (14,267 ft.) was once again in sight off to the S, along with Square Top Mountain (13,797 ft.), Grays Peak (14,276 ft.), and many other magnificent mountains on display toward the SSW.
Upon reaching the CDT, Lupe followed it toward James Peak. However, as the slope steepened, the CDT soon vanished beneath a vast snowfield.
Angling WNW hoping to find it, the CDT was nowhere to be seen when Lupe reached bare ground again. SPHP checked the map.
The Continental Divide Trail goes up farther W, Loopster. We’re already above it.
Must be why I see people way off to the W, SPHP.
Yeah. They must be on it, Looper.
Do we have to go clear over there then, SPHP? Why not ascend right here?
The CDT isn’t as steep, but since it doesn’t look like there’s any snow on the steepest part of the slope above us, I suppose we can just keep climbing.
So that became the plan. The big slope got plenty steep, forcing SPHP to pause many times to gasp for air. Other than that, though, there was nothing to it. Leading with enthusiasm, Lupe reached James Peak’s SE ridge well before SPHP did.
From where Lupe reached the crest of James Peak’s SE ridge, the summit was only another 500 feet higher. Cliffs to the NE were easily avoided. Marmots whistled as the American Dingo sniffed her way up a couple of big humps separated by relatively flat ground before reaching smoother terrain. During her ascent of this final slope, Lupe came across the CDT again, which switchbacked the rest of the way up the mountain.
6-22-24, 1:14 PM, 54ºF – A cool 15 mph breeze was blowing from out of the WSW, as the Carolina Dog stood proudly atop a large pinkish-white boulder near the W end of a roomy summit plain strewn with rocks and tundra. This morning’s clear skies were gone. Hard to be certain, but rain showers far to the W seemed likely to miss James Peak (13,271 ft.). Even so, best to keep an eye on them.
Congratulations, Loopster! You’ve made it to the true summit of James Peak, the Gilpin county, Colorado high point.
James Peak is terrific, SPHP! Look at all the snowy mountains around us. This has got to be chocolate coconut bar territory!
Oh, no! So sorry, Loop, but I’ve forgotten to bring any again. How about a duck jerky and some Taste of the Wild?
What! You forgot the chocolate coconut bars again, SPHP? Whatever am I going to do with you? And yes to the duck jerky and Taste of the Wild. Even American Dingoes can’t climb mountains this big without a bit of nourishment now and then.
SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, then wearily sat on a convenient boulder while digging the promised goods out of the pack. After eating, Lupe was also ready for a rest break, but the rocky ground wasn’t very comfortable, and marmots kept whistling nearby. The Carolina Dog soon recovered enough to run off to investigate, while SPHP sat munching an apple.
James Peak was not a lonely place. People kept coming and going. A trail runner arrived first. 10 minutes and he was gone. At their request, SPHP took a photo of an older guy with his 2 young teenage daughters. Both girls were uncommonly slender. Neither complained at all about the long trek up James Peak from some lake they’d camped at the night before. A second trail runner appeared, joining the conversation.
No one stayed long. SPHP was soon left in complete solitude, pondering the views, while recharging the iPhone’s battery with a newly acquired external battery pack. Tired from the long climb, the time flew. Lupe’s traditional summit hour was already over when, abandoning the phone, SPHP wandered W a little way to where Lupe was sniffing around on the brink of disaster, still searching for marmots.
Don’t get so close to the edge, Looper! The marmots know this terrain, and you don’t.
No worries, SPHP. I’m being careful.
Yes, but if a marmot pops up close to you, you’ll get way too excited, Loop. Stick with me, and let’s have a look around. Our summit tour is already long overdue, and those rain showers are getting closer.
Looking E from the rocky summit plain, no other mountain was as high as James Peak. Views extended to the foothills of the Rocky Mountains front range, then clear out onto the prairies of eastern Colorado where all details faded away in a distant haze.
That panoramic view toward the E was actually the least dramatic one available. Even the views of Pikes Peak (14,109 ft.) way off to the SE, and Mount Blue Sky (14,267 ft.) directly S, seemed relatively tame, in part because the mountains farther W were snowier. Starting from the SSW, Square Top Mountain (13,797 ft.), Argentine Peak (13,742 ft.), Mount Edwards (13,860 ft.), Grays Peak (14,276 ft.), Torreys Peak (14,272 ft.), Grizzly Peak (13,434 ft.), and others were all on display, strung out along a long winding ridge.
Much closer, Mount Bancroft (13,261 ft.) and Parry Peak (13,366 ft.) were now seen from another perspective on the next ridge to the SW.
The prettiest scene was due W, where rows of snowy mountains stood one after another, the highest jagged line of unfamiliar peaks forming the far horizon.
To the NW, where the sky was now darkest with rain, snow-free ski runs at Winter Park were visible thousands of feet lower. Directly N, another collection of rugged peaks sporting some snow was dominated by a giant on the horizon.
Longs Peak (14,257 ft.), SPHP?
That would be my guess, Loop.
Suddenly the wind switched, picking up as it began sweeping in from out of the NW. Looked like trouble for a few minutes before it became clear that the rain showers were going to miss James Peak. Fortunately, they were too far N to cause a problem.
6-22-24, 2:40 PM – No one else had been on James Peak for nearly an hour when Lupe finally started back down the CDT. This time she stuck with the trail instead of going down the SE ridge. Below the switchbacks, several stretches were hidden beneath rapidly melting snowfields. As the American Dingo lost elevation, a lake began coming into view in the deep canyon to the S.
Does that lake have a name, SPHP?
Yes. That’s Loch Lomond, Looper. Supposed to be another trailhead down there with free parking. However, the road to it is reportedly rough, which is why we didn’t park the RAV4 there.
If we had parked there, we wouldn’t have seen St. Mary’s Glacier, SPHP.
So you liked your St. Mary’s Glacier romp, Loop? Me too, which is a good thing, because we’ve got to go back that way again.
The map showed several smaller lakes hidden above Loch Lomond in the upper end of the same canyon. Continuing the descent, Reynolds Lake was the next one to come into sight. A short distance off the CDT, Lupe could see half of Steuart Lake and Ohm Lake, too. Ohm Lake was almost completely buried in snow.
While simply heading straight back to St. Mary’s Glacier would have been easiest, without all that much extra effort Lupe now had the option of tagging either Kingston Peak (12,153 ft.) or Peak 11732 on the way back, too.
Any preference, Loop? Or do you want to just skip it?
Kingston Peak is highest, SPHP. Let’s go over there.
It was a bit of a march from the CDT over to Kingston Peak, but an easy one. During this pleasant jaunt, SPHP failed to notice how unsettled the weather remained back to the W. Approaching the summit, the wind suddenly grew much stronger. By the time Lupe reached the top, a 45 mph gale was blowing from out of the WNW.
6-22-24, 4:45 PM, 52ºF, Kingston Peak (12,153 ft.) – Ducking behind a rock windbreak on the 10 foot diameter summit didn’t provide much of a respite from the wild WNW wind. Retreating a little down the lee side slope helped.
Wow! Sure got windy fast, SPHP.
Yeah. Glad I have my poles, Loopster. I can barely stand up in this gale without them.
Under these conditions, the American Dingo had no reason to linger on Kingston Peak. A short rest break, then it was time for the obligatory summit photo of the windswept Carolina Dog. Another one of a badly battered survey benchmark, and Lupe was on her way.
Only Kingston Peak’s summit was rocky. As soon as Lupe left it, she had a blast roaming vast open slopes on her way S back to St. Mary’s Glacier. Even descending the glacier, the wind remained surprisingly strong.
6-22-24, 6:10 PM, 54ºF – Light rain was falling when Lupe reached the RAV4 in the $10 parking lot across from Silver Lake again. Despite such a long day spent in the mountains, the first thing she did was to carefully sniff the RAV4’s engine compartment for the stowaway packrat. Results were disappointing.
Nothing, SPHP! I can’t pick up a scent. The packrat must have escaped!
For the first time in days, SPHP didn’t hear any squeaks, either.
That’s fabulous news, Loop! Let’s hope our uninvited passenger found a new home and something to eat.
Speaking of eating, I’m famished, SPHP! You must have some chocolate coconut bars in the RAV4, don’t you?
Yeah, yeah. I’ll get you a chocolate coconut bar, Loopster. You earned it. Then we’ll head down to our pullout along Fall River Road before that crazy packrat returns. I’ll rustle up some dinner there, too.
Now you’re talking, SPHP!
The stowaway packrat was never seen, sniffed, or heard from again. Yet it was not completely forgotten, and whether justified, or not, ultimately took the blame for several unfortunate and expensive adventures yet to come. For the time being, though, those unhappy events were still far in the unknown and unforeseeable future, and didn’t interfere in the least with Lupe’s enjoyment of her dinner, or her subsequent adventures in Dingo Dreamland atop her pink blanket.
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