Part 2 of Day 28 & Day 29 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-19-23, 1:39 PM – As always, the relaxing drive up the Engineer Creek valley, over Windy Pass, and thence up the Blackstone River valley had been gorgeous.
We’re getting close to the N end of Tombstone Territorial Park, Looper. Want to stop at Chapman Lake, and get out for a sniff?
Will we be able to see Distincta Peak, SPHP?
Doubt it. We’re too far S already, Loop.
Too bad, SPHP. I’m always ready for a sniff, though!
8-19-23, 2:15 PM, Dempster Highway near km 96 – The Chapman Lake sniff had been a short one, just enough to stretch a bit and have a look around. Now at the lower section of a roomy two-tier pullout on the E side of the highway, Lupe was going to get to stay here longer, yet the Carolina Dog seemed content resting on her pink blanket in the RAV4.
Just going to lie there waiting for lunch, Loop? If you get out, I’ll throw a ball for you.
What’s on the menu, SPHP?
Dinty Moore chicken and dumplings. Won’t take long to heat them up.
Sounds good! Make sure you save plenty for me, SPHP. I’m famished!
After lunch, Lupe did get out to have a look at the bubbling pond and chase a ball. SPHP did some cleaning and straightening up of the RAV4. More than 2 hours had flown by the time Lupe hit the road S again.
On the way to North Fork Pass, SPHP stopped for a look at the beautiful upper East Blackstone River. After going over the pass, Lupe escaped the RAV4 at a big pullout with a famous view. Far in the distance, beyond the upper end of the North Klondike River valley, the sharp spire of Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) touched the clouds.
Much closer, another mountain of more immediate interest was in sight.
See that big ridge to the SE, Loopster? That’s your objective tomorrow, Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.), also known as Discovery Ridge!
Awesome, SPHP! What’s that pointy peak to the L?
That’s Mount Robert Henderson (6,998 ft.), Loop.
It’s clearly higher, SPHP. We ought to climb it, too!
I’d love to, Loop! If we’ve got time, we’ll take a stab at it.
8-19-23, 5:15 PM, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, km 71.5 –
That was quick, SPHP. What did you find out?
About what I expected, Looper. We shouldn’t have dilly-dallied so much. The Interpretive Centre closed at 5:00 PM. Think we know what we need to do, though. I’m going to use one of the picnic tables to heat up some chili for dinner, then we’ll go see if we can find the Charcoal Ridge trail.
Both dinner and the reconnaisance mission were successful. The trail was right where it was supposed to be, on the S side of Charcoal Creek, a little N of the Interpretive Centre, directly across from the campground.
8-19-23, 8:59 PM – A big pullout along the North Klondike River well S of the Interpretive Centre would do for the night. The evening sky was beautiful, raising great hopes for tomorrow.
Wow! I don’t think we’ve ever seen such wonderful weather in Tombstone Territorial Park before, SPHP.
Believe you’re right, Loop. If tomorrow is anything like this, it’s going to be a fantastic day! We’re all set and well-positioned for it, too. We’ll hit the Charcoal Ridge trail bright and early.
Maybe we’ll make it to both Hendersons, SPHP!
Oh, I hope so, Looper. That would be above and beyond expectations.
8-20-23, 7:57 AM, 46ºF, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, km 71.5 – SPHP had already shared beef stew with Lupe, and had a vanilla Equate. Overcast this morning. Disappointing, but the clouds were high and light. Everything was ready, and the American Dingo was rarin’ to go.
What’s the holdup, SPHP?
Don’t see my poles, Loop. Soon as I find them, we’ll be on our way.
The poles weren’t in their usual spot. Where could they be? SPHP tore the back of the RAV4 apart. Nothing.
Oh, my gosh! They aren’t here, Loop. The poles aren’t in the RAV4!
Ridiculous, SPHP! You always bring them. Think back. Did you misplace them when you were cleaning the RAV4 at the bubbling pond?
Hmm. No, I don’t remember seeing them there, Loopster, but I wasn’t looking for them, either. They were the last thing on my mind, since we weren’t going to use them there.
Oh, come on! Where was the last place you remember having them, SPHP?
A logical and easy question to answer. It dawned on SPHP in a flash.
Criminitly! Think I know where they are! Get in the RAV4, Looper. We’re heading back.
Back where, SPHP?
Sapper Hill.
What! You left them on the mountain, SPHP?
No. Not likely. You know how when we return from a trek, I often lean the poles up against the RAV4 before breaking them down and putting them in? Well, I bet I never did that. They were probably still leaning against the RAV4 yesterday when we just drove off and left them, Loop.
Sapper Hill, that’s such a long way! How far back is that?
Nearly 125 km one way, Loopster. So much for Robert Henderson today, maybe Chester, too!
Even if you’re right, SPHP, someone may have found your poles and taken them by now.
Yeah. Nothing we can do about that, Loop. I might have run over them backing out, too. We’ll see.
A minute later, in an unexpected twist of fate, instead of setting out for Mount Chester Henderson, Lupe was back on her pink blanket in the RAV4 heading N.
8-20-23, 10:27 AM, 56ºF – Driving over the bridge over Engineer Creek, SPHP then turned R off the Dempster Highway into the parking area that had served as the trailhead for Sapper Hill (3,084 ft.). Oh, joy!
Luck of the Dingo! There they are, Loopster. My Leki poles!
You didn’t run over them, either, SPHP. They look fine.
SPHP ran out to grab the poles, put them in their customary place in the RAV4, and Lupe was on her way back S.
8-20-23, 1:08 PM, 55ºF, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, km 71.5 – SPHP parked the RAV4 at the empty overflow parking lot.
We’ll stash the RAV4 here since we won’t be getting back until late, Loop. When I said we’d be getting an early start today, I never meant early in the afternoon, yet here we are. We’re still doing this today, right?
Lupe hopped out of the RAV4. The sky was more darkly overcast than it had been this morning.
What’s the forecast for tomorrow, SPHP?
60% chance of rain, Loop.
This looks good, SPHP!
Yeah, kind of now or never, Looper. Onward! Puppy, ho!
After heading over to the E side of the Dempster Highway, Lupe sniffed her way N in the ditch to Charcoal Creek. Picking up the trail along the S bank, the American Dingo followed it NE into a valley full of trees and tall bushes. Almost right away, a familiar sight was ahead.
Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.)! Remember being up there, Loop?
Goldensides was a fun one, SPHP! The whole mountain lived up to its name that day! The fall colors were spectacular, and I really enjoyed the big scramble up the rocks on the S side of the mountain.
Charcoal Creek was a small stream with decent flow. The trail never strayed far from it. Lupe came to many overgrown spots and large branches in the way along its banks, as well as some damp regions of soft, black mud. None of these obstacles were all that difficult to get by, although it was easy to see that some regions were prone to flooding.
Off to the E, a hill was soon in sight. In order to reach the ridge leading to Mount Chester Henderson, Lupe was going to have to climb it.
After following Charcoal Creek for roughly 0.30 km, the trail veered off to the R, climbing a steep bank up into a region of tall bushes. The hill, which was the W end of Charcoal Ridge, was now directly E.
Hopelessly lost down in a thickly overgrown jungle she couldn’t begin to see over, Lupe followed the often deeply rutted trail toward the hill. The trail was gooshy in many places, leaving SPHP trying to avoid frequent stretches of soft, slippery, black mud. Lupe had little choice but to plod right through them.
Closing in on the base of the hill, the rate of climb increased. The bushes began getting shorter, allowing Lupe to finally catch glimpses what was ahead. The American Dingo soon reached a clearing that was very wet. Ripe blueberries were abundant in this region, slowing SPHP’s progress.
Lupe gained 200 feet of elevation before getting beyond the last of the wet regions, and more than twice that before the wild blueberries came to an end. The trail became very steep as it went directly up the hill. The bushes went on and on, SPHP sometimes using them for support. They didn’t start to thin out until the Carolina Dog had gained 800 feet of elevation. At this point, the trail began to switchback to some degree.
By the time Lupe had gained 900 feet of elevation, she was in the alpine, above all the tall bushes on more open ground. Still lots of lower bushes around, but they were only a foot high. A mix of tundra and small scree completed the scene. The last 50 feet hadn’t been all that steep, but the big climb had been wearying.
8-20-23, 2:55 PM, W end of Charcoal Ridge – A couple of low hills capped by small rock outcroppings were now ahead. SPHP dropped the pack, and sat down on the tundra.
Let’s take a short break, Loop.
Lupe was happy to lie down next to SPHP. The views back to the W were already impressive. Way down in the North Klondike River valley, both the Tombstone Interpretive Centre and campground were clearly visible on the other side of the Dempster Highway. The bright blue RAV4, sitting alone in the overflow parking lot was easy to spot, too. Toward the SW, Peak 6246, a subpeak of Fold Mountain, towered above it all.
Looks to me like we could climb Peak 6246, SPHP.
It does! Maybe someday we will, Loopster. I’ll try to remember to put it on your list of possibilities.
Peak 7200 and North Fork Mountain (6,000 ft.) were also in view, over by the big bend where the North Klondike River sweeps down from its upper valley, where Lupe had seen Tombstone Mountain in the distance yesterday.
Plenty more to see from here. Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.) was less than 3 km almost due N, and Lupe could see a long way S down the North Klondike River valley. However, the Carolina Dog still had a long way to go, and the fun, easy part of the journey was now ahead. After sharing beef jerky and water, Lupe was ready to move on.
The first rocky rise to the E wasn’t far from the break spot.
Might as well tag some of these high points along the way, SPHP.
Sure! Go for it, Loopster!
The views from the first high point weren’t all that different. After a quick look, Lupe continued on to the second one. From here, she had an excellent view of Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.). The top of Mount Robert Henderson (6,998 ft.) was in sight, too.
From this second high point, Lupe also had a better view of what was ahead. More hills were in sight along Charcoal Ridge, including HP5400 at the far E end where Lupe would eventually turn SE toward Mount Chester Henderson.
The third high point along Charcoal Ridge was bigger and farther away. The trail climbed NE toward it, eventually leveling out shortly before reaching a small cairn perched along a sharp edge. From this cairn, Blackcap Mountain (6,000 ft.) was starting to come into view beyond Goldensides, and the upper regions of the Charcoal Creek valley were visible for the first time.
The cairn wasn’t quite at the top of the third hill, but a little way from it. Going over to the high point, the view back to the W showed that Lupe had already gained substantial elevation since leaving the first two hills. Interesting, but what really mattered was what was ahead. Looking E, there were actually some dips along Charcoal Ridge on the way to HP5000, the fourth high point.
As the American Dingo continued E along Charcoal Ridge, she hit all the high points. The trail was easy to follow and generally gained elevation, but with significant flat and downhill sections, too. The ridge narrowed as Lupe went along until it was only 10 feet wide, or even less in spots.
Most of the time the trail ran right along the crest of the ridge. Beyond deep valleys on both sides, Lupe enjoyed increasingly spectacular views of Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.) and Blackcap Mountain (6,000 ft.) to the N, and Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.) to the SE.
Charcoal Ridge wasn’t scary or dangerous. Overall progress was as good as SPHP’s aerobic capacity would allow. Such a fun trek! Approaching the E end of the ridge, the trail curved SE, intersecting the ridge leading to Mount Chester Henderson without tagging HP5400.
Skipping HP5400 wasn’t going to do, though. The Carolina Dog had to visit this important point!
8-20-23, 4:49 PM, E end of Charcoal Ridge – HP5400 was a significant point along the journey. Lupe enjoyed new views here. Off to the NNE was a region of flat highlands and small mountains with higher peaks in the distance. One of the highest peaks was a real eye-catcher due to an unusual sawtooth summit ridge.
What mountain is that, SPHP? It doesn’t look like any of the others.
I have no idea, Loop. Might not even have a name since those peaks aren’t that close to the highway.
An easily recognizable peak like that ought to have a name, SPHP. Plenty of people must have seen it from here.
Well, what do you suggest, Loopster? And no, it can’t be Squirrel Peak or Dingo Mountain, or anything like that.
How about Serrated Mountain, SPHP?
Oh, I like that, Looper. Fits, and it’s an unusual name.
A more complete view of Mount Robert Henderson was also available from the HP5400 region.
The weather hadn’t changed much. Still overcast with a 10 mph breeze. Encouragingly, not a drop of rain so far. From HP5400, another ridge ran SE directly toward Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.). While this ridge was no problem, exactly how to get to the summit wasn’t clear at all. Horizontal bands of rock ran all along a very steep upper rim.
I don’t know, Looper. Sure looks like a line of cliffs up there!
The trail keeps going, SPHP. Why don’t we just follow it?
Yeah, that did seem like the obvious thing to do.
Near the end of the approach, the increasingly faint trail left the top of the SE ridge to skirt along the W side of a hill of scree. Once around this hill, Lupe lost 40 feet of elevation on the way down to a broad saddle of tundra. Another scree slope was now ahead with more tundra above it. Hundreds of feet higher, the line of cliffs along the upper rim of Mount Chester Henderson towered above all.
So far, so good, SPHP.
True, but this is where it starts getting interesting, Loopster.
What was left of the trail clearly went right on up the scree slope ahead. Following it, Lupe reached the region of tundra above the scree. As the American Dingo kept climbing, she crossed little streams trickling down the increasingly steep slope.
Lupe was at about 5,800 feet when a choice had to be made. Impassable cliffs were directly ahead.
We either have to go E or W around these cliffs, Loop. Any ideas?
E, SPHP. The trail was trending that way when I last had a scent.
Yeah, I kind of thought E looked best, too, from a distance, Looper, but can’t see that territory now that we’re on this slope. The tundra extends even higher over toward the W. Looks a little like there might be a route up above it. Hard to say without climbing way up there.
Check your map, SPHP.
I already did, Loop. Definitely some easier territory over to the E toward Mount Robert Henderson, if we can get to it. Not sure if we can.
I vote E, SPHP.
It’s unanimous then, Loopster.
Angling ESE while still climbing, Lupe left the cohesive security of the tundra. Nothing but steep slopes of loose rock ahead. Surprisingly deep and steep ravines were sometimes negotiable, and sometimes forced the Carolina Dog higher. At 6,000 feet, the base of the cliffs was still quite a bit higher. They weren’t that big, but didn’t have any breaks that looked like reasonable routes through them.
Lupe kept angling ESE. The steep loose slopes went on and on. Still no decent breaks in the cliff line above, and the L shoulder of the mountain still wasn’t in sight. SPHP was getting impatient. This cautious traverse while rocks clattered down the mountain was chewing up a bunch of time. Eventually, Lupe wasn’t that far from the base of the cliffs.
The cliffs eventually began to shrink. Short chutes where it looked like it might be fairly easy to scramble above them appeared.
Let’s head up here, Loop.
SPHP soon regretted that decision. The cliffs bands were taller than they looked. Although there was some solid exposed bedrock, lots of the rock was rotten. The scramble got scary. It looked like there were plenty of pawholds, but big chunks that appeared well-anchored crumbled away and went crashing down the mountain.
Halfway up a near vertical section, nothing was solid. It all wanted to move. Somehow Lupe scrambled up to a dangerous little shelf above and to the R of SPHP. The American Dingo stood there on the brink of destruction smiling down on SPHP like everything was cool.
Stay put, Loop! Don’t move! Just stay right there! You’re in a terrible spot, and this whole chunk of the mountain I’m clinging to feels like it’s about to give way. If it starts to go, climb if you can, or you’ll go with me!
Heart racing, very carefully and gently, oh so gently, testing everything, SPHP managed to creep above the worst spot.
Didn’t listen to a word I said, did you, Looper? How did you get up there?
Still smiling, Lupe was higher yet, still above SPHP, but now to the L. A sense of relief flooded in over SPHP. She was at a much better spot. The top appeared to be only a few feet above the Carolina Mountain Goat.
You’ve got it made now, Loop. Just go to the top! I’ll join you shortly.
Lupe vanished above the rim. Not the top. The cliff bands extended 40 or 50 feet higher. Fortunately, none were as steep, loose, or dangerous as what had already been negotiated.
8-20-23, 6:33 PM – As the tilt of the cliff bands suggested, Lupe now stood on a gentle, tundra-covered slope above them, a grand panorama of an enormous valley before her with many ridges and mountains beyond it. The sky was no longer completely overcast, and regions of sunshine drifted over the scene.
This is the side of the mountain we should have come up, SPHP. So easy!
Maybe we’ll be going back this way, Loopster. We’re sure not descending the same way we just came up. C’mon, the summit’s in sight off to the SW. Let’s get to the top of this beast!
The true summit was a hill of talus, both farther back from the cliff line and farther SW than SPHP expected. Descending 50 feet on tundra to minimize the amount talus Lupe would have to cross to get there, the rest of the trek was a gradual ascent along tundra-covered slopes.
The summit hill proved to be an easy walkup.
8-20-23, 6:53 PM, 46ºF, Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.) – In a chilly 15 mph SW breeze beneath a partly cloudy sky, Lupe stood on the highest rock of a true summit region roughly 25 feet in diameter. This area was about as flat as it could be covered by big rocks.
SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.
Congratulations, Loop! We made it! I must commend your fearlessness and tremendous scrambling skills.
Oh, Ye of little faith! Was there ever any doubt, SPHP?
For a few minutes on those rotten cliffs, yes, I had serious doubts!
All the more reason to celebrate with a chocolate coconut bar, SPHP!
Certainly, but first, a look around. With so many clouds present, I don’t want to take a chance on the weather deteriorating and hiding everything.
Mount Chester Henderson’s summit was an amazing place! Far to the WSW, Mount Frank Rae (7,700 ft.), Mount Monolith (7,000 ft.), and even the tip of Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) were all in sight, yet SPHP didn’t recognize them amid the gloom in that direction.
4.5 km NW, very easily recognizable, the American Dingo looked down on Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.), a summit where she had once been. Blackcap Mountain (6,000 ft.) was NE of Goldensides. Beyond these two, both Angelcomb Peak (6,300 ft.) and Trapper Mountain (6,627 ft.) were visible in the distance. Serrated Mountain was NNE.
The view of Mount Robert Henderson (6,998 ft.), only 3 km back to the ENE, was both awesome and discouraging.
Looks like could get pretty high, but realistically, I doubt Robert will ever be in the cards for us, Loopster. Appears beyond our capabilities.
Don’t give up so easy, SPHP. The back side might not be that bad.
Well, maybe. The topo map seems to agree with you, Looper, but, in any case, we don’t have time to check it out today.
Countless more mountains were to the S, none of which SPHP had any clue about. Looking down Mount Chester Henderson’s long SW ridge, the North Klondike River valley was flanked on both sides by some of these mountains as the stream flowed away to its eventual rendezvous with the Yukon River at Dawson City.
Enough already, SPHP! How about that chocolate coconut bar?
Fine! Chilly up here in the wind, anyway. Please stay just another minute or two, Loop, then I’ll call you down, and we’ll take a break.
That’s good, Loop! Come on down!
8-20-23, 7:10 PM – NE of the summit and 30 feet lower, Lupe rested on the tundra somewhat sheltered from the wind, enjoying a moment of sunshine until the next cloud would sweep by. SPHP shared not only a chocolate coconut bar, but beef jerky and water with the Carolina Dog, then let her polish off the rest of the Taste of the Wild.
While Lupe crunched away, SPHP munched on the last of the trail mix. Back to the NE, much of the region above the cliffs Lupe had crossed on the way here was in view, also in sunshine. Mount Robert Henderson was in shadow, but overall, the sky seemed to be clearing somewhat.
Have you decided yet how were going to get down, SPHP? Are we going to explore the valley to the SE? Looks beautiful and easy. No cliffs that way!
If we have to, we will, Loop. I checked the map. We wouldn’t have to ford the North Klondike River in order to get back to the Dempster Highway, but I’m afraid that once we got low enough, we’d wind up in an atrocious wilderness bushwhack.
What else can we do, SPHP?
We’re going to go back the way we came, Loopster, but farther E toward Mount Robert Henderson. I want to see if we can just go around the E end of the cliffs, and still get back to the Charcoal Ridge Trail.
The views were magnificent. The time flew. Too bad about the fiasco with the poles. Lupe should have had hours to roam around exploring up here. However, as things stood, the sun was sinking, and it was a long way back.
45 minutes after arriving, Lupe returned to the summit. The chill SW breeze was still blowing, but it was sunnier now.
One more look, and we better go, Loop. If we end up bushwhacking, I don’t want to be doing it in the dark.
It was all so beautiful! The most meaningful view, though, was to the NW where at least two peaks Lupe had been to years ago were in sight, Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.) and Angelcomb Peak (6,300 ft.).
That ridge in the distance, is that Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.), SPHP?
Maybe, but it’s too far away, Loop. I can’t tell for sure.
In the end, going farther ENE toward Mount Robert Henderson worked. Lupe avoided the cliffs, forced only to make a longer traverse along the steep loose slopes below them before rejoining the Charcoal Ridge Trail.
The sun was still up, and virtually all of Charcoal Ridge was in view as Lupe headed back to HP5400 where she would turn W and follow it. And then, the strangest thing happened.
Without the least warning, or any precedent for it, the Carolina Dog was suddenly seized by a powerful sneezing fit.
What’s wrong, Loopster? Did you sniff something that got stuck in your nose? Come, let me take a look.
Lupe cooperated with an examination.
ACHOOO! Do you see anything in my nose, SPHP?
No. I don’t, but then it’s a long nose, and I can’t see far up it at all, Loop. Does it feel like you’ve got something stuck in there, or do you suddenly have allergies?
ACHOOO! I don’t know, SPHP. What are .. ACHOOO, allergies? ACHOOO, ACHOOO!
An instant onset of a formerly unknown allergy seemed unlikely, but SPHP had no way of seeing, much less removing, whatever had flown up the American Dingo’s nose. No amount of sneezing, no matter how Dingo-shaking seemed capable of dislodging the culprit, either.
Lupe shook her head violently after each mighty ACHOOO to no effect, which surely must have detracted from her enjoyment of the gorgeous trek down Charcoal Ridge. (End, 11:20 PM, 49ºF)
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track & Ascent Statistics
Tombstone Territorial Park Map
The Dempster Highway Travelogue
Goldensides, Ogilvie Range, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-5-17)
Surfbird Mountain, Ogilvie Range, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-4-17)
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.
I’m Brad Walton, evening reporter at KOTA Territory News in Rapid City and long-time Lupe fan. Would love to do a story on you guys if you’re interested. Shoot me an email if you are
Brad:
It’s a great honor to hear from you! I’ll have SPHP send you an email shortly.