Yukon Territory – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Kusawa Ridge, Kluane Plateau, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-16-22)

Days 17 & 18 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-15-22, 12:40 PM, 64ºF – After an early constitutional along the ridge overlooking the N end of Atlin Lake, Lupe spent the rest of the morning snoozing peacefully on her pink blanket in the RAV4. Tiring of the trip journal, SPHP put it away. Enough of that! Time to move on.

Cloudy and cooler today, so not much was in the works. Driving N on Hwy No. 7, SPHP eventually turned W on the Alaska Highway. After a couple of stops for supplies and fuel ($1.859 CAN/liter) in Whitehorse, Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs was next.

I’m hungry, SPHP! Can you at least give me something good to eat before you treat only yourself to the hot springs?

Hah! You’re in luck, Loop! Picked up a barbecued chicken in Whitehorse. Let’s do it some damage before I go get cleaned up.

I’ll gladly help you with that chicken, SPHP! Say, this place looks vaguely familiar. Have we been here before?

Yes, several times. Used to be Takhini Hot Springs, but since we were last here a few years ago, they tore that facility down. Their fancy schmancy brand new one is open now with its glittery new name.

After hiring the water taxi to take us to Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.), can you still afford it, SPHP? Looks pretty ritzy.

Hope so. If not, I’ll be back sooner than you think, Looper.

Splurge, if you have to, SPHP. Removing a few layers of that topsoil you’re wearing wouldn’t hurt a thing!

SPHP did splurge. Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs was now quite a swanky joint compared to the old Takhini Hot Springs. Sadly, prices reflected this change, but management clearly had a considerable investment to recoup. SPHP spent the better part of an hour soaking in the largest of 3 hot pools to choose from. Medium hot, it was the clear favorite of today’s guests.

How was it, SPHP? I must say, you do sniff a lot better now!

Very relaxing, Loop. Enjoyed it! Best to get here early in the day, though, if you want to save money. Paid the $29 CAN afternoon price. Only $19 CAN in the morning, $39 CAN in the evening. That’s my hot pool, hot tip of the day for Whitehorse travelers!

Felt fantastic to be clean again! Returning to the Alaska Highway, SPHP continued the drive W.

8-15-22, 8:41 PM – The turn S off the Alaska Highway came 65 km W of Whitehorse on a wide gravel road 2 km past a rest area. The RAV4 was now close to 20 km in, parked on a bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake. The sky was still gray and glum, but Lupe was in fine spirits.

Wow! We get to stay here tonight, SPHP? Look at how close we are to the lake!

Yup! Kusawa Lake is a lot bigger than it looks, too, Loop. We’re not far from where the Takhini River flows out the N end, so we only see a small fraction of it here. Kusawa Lake is one of these unbelievably long, skinny Canadian lakes that winds for miles back into the mountains.

Oh! Are we going to take another water taxi tomorrow then, SPHP?

Nope. Weather permitting, the plan is to climb Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.). It’s a popular hike only a few km from here to get to a big view of the lake from on high. Actually hoping we’ll be able to go on to Peak 6400+, too. Should be some great alpine territory to roam, if we can get that far.

I love the alpine tundra, SPHP!

I know! Me, too, Loop. Ready for dinner yet? With this S breeze coming off the lake, don’t think it makes sense to try to heat anything up. We could polish off the rest of the barbeque chicken, though.

If I must, I must, SPHP. Bring it on!

8-16-22 – Morning didn’t bring much of a change. Beneath an overcast sky, the air was cool, a chilly breeze still sweeping across Kusawa Lake. By 11:00 AM, though, the day was starting to brighten and warm up. Sick of writing, SPHP stashed the trip journal again.

Sort of a late start, Looper, but maybe now’s our chance! Kusawa Ridge?

The American Dingo was all for it.

8-16-22 – Driving S past a campground, the main road came to a “T”. Consulting directions, SPHP turned R (W). After going around a bend, the road continued S. An ancient cabin soon appeared on the L (E), just before a bridge over a good-sized stream. SPHP parked the RAV4 in an empty spot big enough for several vehicles opposite the cabin.

Lupe leapt out. No signage at all, but, sure enough, a wide path headed W into the forest.

At the “T” in the main road where SPHP turned R.

The cabin directly opposite the Kusawa Ridge trailhead.

8-16-22, 12:03 PM, 61ºF, Kusawa Ridge trailhead – The sun was trying to break through the cloud cover as Lupe set off. Happily, just enough of a breeze here to keep the bugs away. The Carolina Dog barely got started on the broad, smooth path when she came to a small, sandy clearing with a stone campfire ring.

One minute in at the campfire ring. Photo looks W.

The level path went right on past the campfire ring, and the American Dingo did, too. Lupe hadn’t gone much farther when the path began veering N (R). Seemed a bit odd, since the route to Kusawa Ridge was supposed to follow the stream off to the S. However, the path was clear and wide, and SPHP hadn’t noticed any other.

Anticipating this jog N was temporary, SPHP expected the trail to curve SW back toward the stream at any moment. Instead, it persisted in its course N. When Lupe got so far that the stream couldn’t be heard any more, SPHP became suspicious.

Hang on, Loop! This can’t be right! We’re going the wrong way.

We’re lost already, SPHP? We’ve barely started!

I know, but I just assumed this big, wide path was the way to go. Instead, we’re heading directly away from the stream we’re supposed to follow.

Well, what about this path, SPHP? Maybe this is the way, or would you rather go back to the stream?

For the first time, SPHP noticed a side trail Lupe had spotted that headed WSW off the main one.

Never mind! This must be the way, Loop! Glad you saw it!

Taking the faint side trail, it wound mostly W or SW through an open forest full of scattered boulders and a fair amount of deadfall. Gradually gaining elevation, the terrain was interesting, allowing Lupe to explore a series of small ridges and valleys. At times the trail nearly faded away completely, but with careful examination, it was always found again.

On one of the largest boulders in the forest. Photo looks WNW.

Following the crest of a minor ridge. Photo looks NW.

Something still wasn’t right! The Kusawa Ridge route was supposed to start off following the stream for 1.6 km, but the trail went on and on, and Lupe still couldn’t even hear it. Well, no matter. Sooner or later, she’d either have to run into the stream, or Kusawa Ridge itself.

Sure enough, the American Dingo finally did reach a steep bank, nearly a cliff, overlooking the stream. There was a much clearer trail here.

Back on track along the **N bank of the stream**. Photo looks SE.

Alright, think we’re back on track now, SPHP!

Yeah, we must have messed up somehow way back near the start, Loop. Think the faint route we followed here must be the way other lost souls have gone, too. Maybe we can figure it all out on the way back?

No worries, SPHP! The way we went was fine. I enjoyed it! Onward!

Turned out, Lupe had rediscovered the main trail only a short distance from the base of Kusawa Ridge. Here, a gritty path started up a very steep slope. After an initial climb, things got easier, improving further as the Carolina Dog reached young aspens up on the broad ridge.

Near the top of the initial gritty climb at the **toe of Kusawa Ridge**. Photo looks N.

Just getting started! **Kusawa Lake** and **Mount Coudert** on the opposite shore. Photo looks SE.

The Kusawa Ridge trail featured a few level stretches, but most of the time, Lupe climbed at a good clip as the trail wound through the aspens past scenic boulders of moderate size. Curiously enough, the trail itself wasn’t particularly rocky.

The day was now sunny and warm. SPHP was shedding layers. Loop soon felt overheated in her fur coat, too, and began pawing SPHP’s legs wanting to stop. Coming to a slab of bedrock in the shade of a spruce tree, a short break was taken. While SPHP finished stripping down to a T-shirt, Lupe had a drink of water, followed up with some Taste of the Wild. SPHP munched on trail mix.

No one had been at the trailhead, and Lupe hadn’t seen anyone since then, either, but soon voices could be heard below. Apparently a nice, sunny day meant company. Setting off again before anyone appeared, Lupe continued up the ridge.

The climb up Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.) was straightforward. Beneath a bright blue sky and puffy white clouds, Lupe followed the trail NNW, steadily gaining elevation. Two big knobs were soon visible ahead. As the American Dingo continued higher, Peak 6400+ came into view past the deep valley the creek went up.

The two big knobs come into view. Photo looks NW.

**Peak 6400+** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

Approaching the two knobs. Photo looks NNW.

People were now visible coming up the trail, but Lupe maintained her lead. The first knob turned out to be merely a flatter region wider than the rest of the ridge. Looked like there might be some nice viewpoints overlooking Kusawa Lake off to the E, but the Carolina Dog didn’t check them out. Most of the trail already offered great views of the lake.

Continuing toward the second knob, the trail crossed an unusual region of exposed bedrock before starting to climb more steeply again. By now, blue sky was vanishing, and the breeze suddenly felt colder and stronger with each step. No longer T-shirt weather, SPHP began layering up.

On the exposed bedrock, heading for the second knob. Photo looks NNW.

Approaching the second knob, the terrain got steeper and rockier, Lupe made good progress climbing a grassier slope W of rock formations. It began to look like the American Dingo would reach the top any minute now, but higher ground kept appearing ahead.

Approaching some rock formations. Photo looks NNW.

Climbing the second knob. Photo looks NNW.

By now the trail was only intermittent. There was no top to the second knob. It was all an illusion! Lupe kept climbing from one false summit to the next. Continuing to gain strength, the wind felt colder and colder. Loopster finally reached a flat region. A depression surrounded by tall vegetation appeared to be the dried up remnant of a small tarn.

Although it was tempting to seek shelter from the wind here, Loop kept going, skirting around the E side of the depression without entering it.

Still climbing. Not enjoying the wind. Photo looks NW.

The depression was nearly the end. Climbing the hill beyond it among dark rocks, the terrain then began to flatten out, the rate of climb greatly diminished. Lupe reached a series of minor false summits. A top was now visible ahead. Two of them, actually, but the American Dingo didn’t need to get to HP5949, the much higher and more distant one. She was already nearly to the region considered the high point of Kusawa Ridge.

**HP5929** (L of Center). Area considered the **high point of Kusawa Ridge** directly ahead. Photo looks NNW.

8-16-22, 3:15 PM, 46ºF, Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.) – The wind was 30-35 mph out of the SW as Lupe reached a cairn. The absolute high point of this region was still a few minutes farther, but the wind was so chilly and annoying, the Carolina Dog didn’t go all the way to it right away.

Instead, after paying the cairn a brief visit, she headed over to the E side of the ridge, descending a little bit to escape the worst of the wind. This was where the best views of Kusawa Lake were, anyway.

By the cairn. **HP5949** (L). Photo looks N.

**Kusawa Lake** from the E edge. Photo looks SSE.

While taking a short break here, a boy or 8 or 9 arrived at the cairn with his father. Spotting Lupe, the boy came running over wanting to pet her, an act of kindness the Carolina Dog was happy to oblige. The boy and his father soon left, though, after a few quick photos. Lupe and SPHP were alone again in the wild breeze beneath a dark sky.

The views were impressive, although perhaps not at their finest on such a gloomy day. Lupe could see the entire 9 mile long N section of Kusawa Lake, all the way S from where the Takhini River left it at the N end clear down to where the lake curved out of sight behind the mountains.

**Takhini River** (L), **N end of Takhini Lake** (R). **Peak 6212** (beyond Lupe) and **Vanier Peak (6,049 ft.)** (R) with **Mount Ingram (7,047 ft.)** in the distance between them. **Peak 6995** (far R). Photo looks NE.

**Kusawa Lake** from the break spot. Photo looks SSE.

Hard to believe we’re only seeing a fraction of the lake from here, SPHP!

True enough, though, Loop! This is only about a third of Kusawa Lake.

Still say we need a water taxi to really explore it then, SPHP.

Would be fun, Loop, but don’t believe there are any water taxis here.

As soon as the short rest break was over, Lupe continued NNW to tag the true summit of Kusawa Ridge.

Looking back at the **first cairn** (Center) before heading off to the true summit. Photo looks SSW.

8-16-22, 3:44 PM, 46ºF, Kusawa Ridge – The true summit proved to be a minor rise of exposed bedrock with a small cairn and other loose rocks on it. A huge, light gray boulder sitting farther N near the E edge bore a cairn, too, and was almost as high. Lupe visited both, requiring a boost from SPHP to get up onto the boulder.

At the **true summit of Kusawa Ridge**. **Boulder** (L). Photo looks NNE.

**Kusawa Lake** from the **true summit**. Photo looks SSE.

On the light gray boulder. **True summit** (R). Photo looks SSE.

The views from the boulder were marvelous, but nearly identical to those at the break spot back near the first big cairn. After spending only a minute or two enjoying them, Lupe leapt down. One more high spot to visit! A short stroll W got her to a slightly elevated region of tundra and scattered rocks. No cairns, but this area was in contention for the title of true summit, too.

At the **NW high point of Kusawa Ridge**. **HP5949** (R of Center). Photo looks NW.

Having little prominence, none of these Kusawa Ridge high points really meant much. Lupe stood on this last one facing W. Across a deep valley, Peak 6400+ was more than 1,300 feet higher than where she was now.

**Peak 6400+** (R of Center). Photo looks W.

Not a tree or bush in sight! Peak 6400+ was just a big rounded hill. Lupe surveyed a vast region of open tundra that swept around to it, and even way beyond to other big hills. It was all just the sort of fabulous alpine territory the American Dingo would ordinarily love to explore.

That had been the plan when the day was sunny and warm. Venture on from Kusawa Ridge to the big saddle SW of HP5949, then head up Peak 6400+’s long NW slope clear to the summit. Getting there would be a breeze, and Loopster would have such fun!

A breeze? More like a gale, SPHP! At 30-35 mph down here, no telling what kind of hurricane we’d run into up there! Not doing it! At least, not today! You’ve got a nice, new rain jacket, but what about me? If it starts raining, I’ll be soaked to the skin and freezing cold! Do you want me to catch pneumonia?

The American Dingo was right. Conditions were borderline unpleasant already. Continuing on to Peak 6400+ was asking for trouble. If it did start to rain, misery and hypothermia would almost certainly result. Couldn’t rule it out, either, with the sky the way it was.

Reluctantly, a mere 35 minutes after Lupe reached the first big cairn, SPHP conceded the point. May as well start back.

While still in the high country, SPHP couldn’t help but gaze SW over to the many peaks Lupe might easily explore under better conditions.

Unexplored territory made for adventure! Photo looks SW.

If we ever come back, we could bring the tiny house with us, Looper. A few days worth of supplies, and you could roam for miles!

Keep Peak 6400+ on my list of possibilities, SPHP! Maybe someday we will!

The rather steep descent was easy and went fast, enjoying a fabulous view of Kusawa Lake ahead nearly all the way. Not far from the top, Lupe did check out the depression this time around. It truly did offer some protection from the wind.

Loss of elevation did, too. The sky remained cloudy during the descent, but conditions steadily improved. The wind died down, the air warmed up, and SPHP was shedding layers again.

Back down to a more hospitable clime. Photo looks SSE.

Once off Kusawa Ridge, this time, Lupe managed to follow the correct trail all the rest of the way back to the trailhead. It stayed much closer to the stream than the one erroneously taken on the way up. For a while it ran right along the edge of the steep N bank. Several times SPHP had to grab hold of trees in order to get past sections that had collapsed into stream’s gaping, rocky ravine.

Most of the time, though, the trail stayed a little N of the ravine back in the forest. The route was confusing, braided, and difficult to follow in places, which SPHP found surprising. Looper, on the other paw, loved how it wound around, and often led the way.

Very curious on exactly where this route had been missed on the way up, SPHP was surprised again when Lupe suddenly came to the stone campfire ring in the sandy clearing only a minute from the trailhead. The correct path, which veered toward the L (SW) here on the way in, was unmarked, and not at all obvious. No wonder!

8-16-22, 5:16 PM, 62ºF, Kusawa Ridge trailhead – Perfect timing! Two minutes after Lupe leapt back into the RAV4, it started to sprinkle. SPHP drove N back to the same flat, grassy bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake where she’d spent last night. The wind was blowing this way across the lake again, making heating anything up for dinner a pain.

Back at the grassy bluff overlooking **Kusawa Lake**. Photo looks S.

Want to share a can of salmon, Loop? I don’t have to cook that.

You know I love salmon, SPHP!

Sharing salmon and Ritz crackers, Lupe and SPHP watched a storm move in. Sprinkles gave way to mist. Dusk brought whitecaps as rain swept Kusawa Lake, and a steady patter began on the roof of the RAV4.

Good thing Lupe hadn’t gone on to Peak 6400+, but at least she’d made it to Kusawa Ridge!

On **Kusawa Ridge**, Kluane Plateau, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-16-22

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Along the Long Road Home (9-12-18 thru 9-15-18)

Days 40 – 43 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

9-12-18, 9:07 AM, International Falls trailhead, South Klondike Highway – The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had been so lucky yesterday! She’d finally made it to Peak 6053 on a cool, cloudy day. Most fortunately, the clouds had been high enough not to interfere with any of the incredible views. Different story this morning. 100% overcast, low ceiling, all the mountains in fog.

Didn’t matter now. Peak 6053 had been the last grand hurrah of this Dingo Vacation. SPHP’s feet were too sore to do anything today, even if the weather had been perfect. The Carolina Dog wasn’t actually a ball of fire, either. She seemed perfectly content resting on her pile of blankets and pillows gazing out the windows of the G6.

Lupe’s grand summer of 2018 was ending. Time to head home. Less than 1 km from the Alaska border, SPHP turned the key. The G6 sprang to life. 2,300+ miles to go! Mountain climbing was done. Any further adventures along the way were going to be quick and easy. At this point, that was perfectly fine with both Loop and SPHP. A long, relaxing drive sounded delightful!

9:45 AM – Canadian customs was only 7.5 miles N on the South Klondike Highway from where Lupe had spent the night. A short wait in line, and Lupe breezed through. The long drive began in earnest. Even from the road, the scenery was gorgeous. Big mountains, huge lakes, forests, rivers, for mile after mile.

At Carcross, SPHP turned NE on Tagish Road (Highway 8). It started to rain. Still weary, the Carolina Dog passed out, snoozing peacefully to the rhythmic slapping of the windshield wipers. From Jake’s Corner, the rest of the morning and all afternoon were spent cruising E on the Alaska Highway across the southern Yukon. Lupe did get out for a short break from the G6 at Teslin Lake. By then, the rain and clouds were long gone.

Miss Sleepyhead revives long enough for a quick sniff along **Teslin Lake**.

Fake wildlife at a campground next to the gas station in Teslin. No, wait! The American Dingo is real!

Highlights of the day didn’t occur for Lupe or SPHP until the Yukon had been left behind for good. E of Watson Lake in British Columbia, wide swaths of forest were clear cut along both sides of the Alaska Highway. Bison roamed wild on the open ground. That snapped the Carolina Dog to attention! Lupe saw 7 bison in all, each of them loners. Naturally, each bison was cause for a hysterical foaming-at-the-mouth barkfest as the G6 raced on by. What could be more fun?

SPHP’s big moment came at Liard River Hot Springs. While Lupe waited in the G6, lucky SPHP got to soak in the beautiful outdoor pools. Warm and clean again for the first time in forever felt heavenly! Even SPHP’s sore feet were more or less cured by the soothing experience.

Out for a quick romp with a view of the **Liard River**.

Light was fading by the time SPHP returned from the hot springs. Only 6 miles after crossing the Liard River, it was time to stop for the night. The sky was completely clear, and the night promised to be a cold one. The big show didn’t start until 10:45 PM. For an hour, the Northern Lights entertained in a true dancing with the stars.

9-13-18, 5:23 AM, 23°F – Ice in Lupe’s water bowl! After a quick foray out to sniff the chilly air, the Carolina Dog was on her way. Still pretty dark. Upon entering Muncho Lake Provincial Park, Looper became excited, barking and whimpering at something she either sniffed or saw out there that SPHP couldn’t detect yet. More bison? Maybe.

6:17 AM, 25°F – Muncho Lake is always worth a stop! The park here has some beautiful peaks, but is so wild and remote that SPHP has never been able to find any information on whether any trails exist providing access to them. Some fine day Lupe is going to climb a mountain in Muncho Lake Provincial Park! That great peak at the S end of the lake would be ideal.

Impressive peaks in **Muncho Lake Provincial Park**.

The next stop came at a pullout after crossing the bridge over the Racing River. 18°F! Despite the chilly air, Lupe was totally enthused! This was a favorite place. A short dirt road goes through a stretch of forest here where she often finds squirrels on the way to the river.

This morning the Racing River was the lowest Lupe had ever seen it, but still that fabulous icy blue color!

The **Racing River** between Muncho Lake and Stone Mountain Provincial Parks.

While driving over the bridge, SPHP had noticed some white mountains upstream that looked interesting. After Lupe’s woodsy stroll to the river, SPHP drove back to the bridge for another look. Upstream, a pickup truck was in sight parked near some trees. Must be a road over there!

7:52 AM – Continuing across the bridge, sure enough, there was a side road. SPHP pulled off the highway, parked again, and the lucky Carolina Dog got to go exploring for a second time. A short trek through another forest brought her to a relatively open area near the Racing River. The gleaming white mountains, sporting new snow, looked intriguing.

The scene was so beautiful, that Lupe got to extend her sniff upstream for another 10 minutes. It appeared she could have followed dry parts of the riverbed for miles, getting much closer to the white mountains. No time for that today, but this area was certainly worth researching for a future trip.

By the **Racing River** with the intriguing white mountains in sight. Photo looks SW.

Another look with help from the telephoto lens.

The Alaska Highway bridge over the **Racing River**. Photo looks NE.

As close to the white mountains as Lupe went. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Exploring along the Racing River had been fun! Lupe didn’t have long to wait before there was more excitement. Upon reaching Stone Mountain Provincial Park, she saw 3 caribou, but barked so fanatically from the G6 that the caribou disappeared before SPHP could get a photo.

A quick stop a mile later provided a grand view of Mount Saint George, which Lupe had nearly succeeded in getting to the top of back in 2017.

**Mount Saint George (7,402 ft.)** (L). Lupe had made it to the middle high point in 2017 before being forced to retreat due to threatening weather. Photo looks SSE.

9:38 AM, 32°F, Summit Lake, Stone Mountain Provincial Park – Must be an inversion up here. The temperature was clear up to freezing! SPHP had stopped at Summit Lake, the high point of the Alaska Highway in Stone Mountain Provincial Park, to let Lupe out for another look at Mount Saint George. Lupe had successfully climbed both Summit Peak and Mount Saint Paul from here in 2017.

**Mount Saint George** from **Summit Lake**. Photo looks SW.

The American Dingo’s busy morning continued on the way out of Stone Mountain Provincial Park. More caribou, this time right on the highway, were cause for another barking frenzy.

A recent poll shows that 4 out of 5 caribou don’t care to listen to shrill barking frenzies.

The caribou were just a warm-up for what came next. Lupe just about busted a gut when a black bear appeared. The black bear didn’t seem to know what to make of all this racket, but did not run off. The huge bear appeared quite willing to go a round or two with a pip-squeak Dingo, if it dared to leave the safety of the G6.

American Dingoes are incredibly strong, brave, and ferocious! Lupe would most certainly have torn that foolish bear to shreds, if SPHP hadn’t spared it by refusing to let her out and driving on. Later in the day, a grizzly bear near Bonnie Creek S of Fort Nelson had sense enough to flee into the woods rather than take a chance that SPHP might relent and let the feisty Dingo prove her point.

Black bear E of Stone Mountain Provincial Park.

Approaching Fort St. John, SPHP skipped the R turn onto Highway 29 to Chetwynd and Prince George. Although this meant no more mountains on this Dingo Vacation, the Carolina Dog was going to get to travel through more than 1,000 miles of territory neither she nor SPHP had ever seen before.

5:00 PM, 32°F, Fort St. John – In a way, a strange day. Despite clear skies, the temperature peaked at 47°F early in the afternoon. Already down to freezing again at Fort St. John, and it stayed that way for many miles.

The Alaska Highway was busy from Fort St. John all the way to where it started in Dawson Creek. The community of Taylor where the highway crossed the Peace River made a good impression. A big oil refinery was there, but the whole town was impeccably neat and clean, and the Peace River setting was beautiful.

S of Taylor on the way to Dawson Creek, SPHP was surprised to find the seemingly endless northern forests greatly reduced already. About half of the land had been cleared. Hay seemed to be the big crop, although little livestock was seen from the road. Lupe was thrilled to see a few cows and horses, though, and the G6 became a sporadically noisy place. Her enthusiasm sometimes extended to huge rolled hay bales, too.

E of Dawson Creek on Hwy 49, the road straightened. Lupe was now in Alberta. Remaining woodlands became scarcer, and traffic dwindled. SPHP drove under a cloud bank as the sun sank in the rear view mirror. Light began to fade quickly. Although the land was quite flat, it did slope gradually lower to the N. Lupe could see a long way in that direction, all the way to the northern forest.

Many fields had snow in them. In the dim light beneath the gray clouds, it looked and felt like November. After passing Spirit Lake and Rycroft, SPHP parked for the night before getting to Wanham. Happy to escape the G6 again, Lupe rolled in snow in the ditch to cool off.

9-14-18, 3:10 AM, 35°F, Hwy 49 – At least it hadn’t gotten any colder out. 3°F warmer, in fact. SPHP walked along the dark highway, while Lupe sniffed near the ditch. No stars. Dead calm. No traffic. A coyote howled, and a dog at a farmhouse 0.5 mile N started barking.

7:08 AM, 32°F, Hwy 49 – Back to freezing again. Another quick sniff outside, then on to the vast metropolis of Wanham! The edge of the cloud Lupe was under was only a little way N, but it was soon left behind.

Morning along Highway 49 W of Wanham, Alberta.

S of Donnelly, SPHP continued straight at an intersection where Hwy 49 became Hwy 2. A lovely drive through a mix of farms and woodlands ensued. The woods began to dominate again. Driving through forests with snow on the ground, it felt like Christmas was coming.

10:15 AM, 35°F, Canyon Creek harbor, Lesser Slave Lake – Eventually Hwy 2 had taken Lupe E through the forests S of Lesser Slave Lake. The big lake was the most interesting natural feature on the map between the mountains and home, so the Carolina Dog simply had to stop for a look. Waves lapped gently along the shoreline. The day was gray and calm, peaceful except for the raucous activity of seagulls.

Clearly, a boat was needed to make even a cursory exploration of Lesser Slave Lake, but it was fun to stroll along the shore for a little bit.

Low hills were over toward the E end of the lake. Only a small fraction of **Lesser Slave Lake** is in view here.

Seagulls provided what excitement and activity there was at **Lesser Slave Lake** on this cool, gray day.

1:23 PM, 39°F, Athabasca – Some sort of big event was just breaking up in a park at the busy little town of Athabasca when Lupe arrived. The park was right next to the Athabasca river, which Lupe had only seen before in Jasper National Park. The river was much tamer here than at mighty Athabasca Falls, but Loop still enjoyed sniffing around down on the partially exposed riverbed.

Christmas was in the air on the way to the town of Athabasca!

Along the **Athabasca River** in Athabasca, Alberta.

From Athabasca, SPHP drove E on Hwy 55, then S on Hwys 63 and 831. On the road S, the woodlands gave way for a final time to fields and farms of the great northern prairies.

3:36 PM, 39°F, Lamont – Lupe didn’t escape the G6 again until reaching the town of Lamont. SPHP let her check out the Ukrainian Catholic Church of St. John the Baptist, which featured distinctive architecture.

**Ukrainian Catholic Church of St. John the Baptist**, Lamont, Alberta.

Churches aren’t usually part of Lupe’s adventures, but this one was quite striking!

At Mundare, Lupe reached 4 lane Hwy 16. Except where there were cows or horses to bark at, the drive E over gently rolling prairies put her to sleep. Near Lloydminster, Lupe and SPHP entered Saskatchewan for the first time ever. The scenery didn’t change, though, and the long drive continued.

7:11 PM, 41°F – As evening came on, SPHP left Hwy 16 looking for a rest area, but didn’t find it. Lupe’s first outing in Saskatchewan was a walk along a dirt road through a wheat field to see an oil tank.

Visiting **Saskatchewan** for the first time ever!

The sun set before the American Dingo reached Battleford. SPHP doesn’t ordinarily like to drive in the dark, but it didn’t seem like Loopster was going to miss much except more prairie, so tonight was an exception. No longer sleepy, she stayed awake anyway, keeping SPHP company as miles rolled by. Saskatoon was big and confusing in the dark, but by midnight, Lupe was far beyond it, S of Chamberlain along another Hwy 2.

756 miles today, and that was enough.

9-15-18, 9:13 AM – The morning was cool, overcast, almost foggy. SPHP parked the G6 at a rest area along the E side of Hwy 6 in S Saskatchewan about an hour N of the Montana border. The rest area was a triangular 30 acre tract surrounded by wheat farms. Picnic tables were arranged around a circular drive, with the rest of the 30 acres given over to tall grass and shelter belt trees.

No one else around. Hardly any traffic. This rest area was a beautiful little refuge on the quiet prairie, and Lupe’s last adventure of her 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska. For two happy hours, she roamed with SPHP through the tall grass and shelter belt woods exploring every nook and cranny, chased tennis balls SPHP threw for her, and sniffed along while SPHP picked up trash.

Happy times at the rest area along Hwy 6 in Saskatchewan.

The rest of the day was devoted to one more long drive. During the noon hour, Lupe crossed the border into Montana at Regway on the way to Plentywood. S of Baker, SPHP finally drove out from under the cloud the Carolina Dog had been under since Dawson Creek back at the start of the Alaska Highway.

5:59 PM, 71°F – The sun was shining at Medicine Rocks State Park. The air was breezy, and had soared to room temperature. A quick stop, then Lupe continued S, enjoying a ride with the windows partly open. This was all eastern Montana ranch land. Opportunities to bark at cows and horses came one after another! Toward dusk, SPHP had to slow way down due to all the herds of deer.

At Medicine Rocks State Park in eastern Montana.

The sun set for the last time on her last summer of 2018 Dingo Vacation while Lupe was still in SE Montana on Hwy 323 N of Alzada.

On Hwy 323 as the sun sets in SE Montana.

Lupe’s grand summer of 2018 fades into history.

9-15-18, 9:45 PM – 43 days, 9,691 miles, and countless adventures come and gone. Home again. SPHP unlocked the front door. Home was dark, stuffy, warm. Sigh. Back to the old routine. Time to air things out, and start unloading the G6.

Felt strange to be here.

Oh, for a time machine! Tomorrow a bright summer morning would dawn, and the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood would be heading N on the long road to adventure. Tuktoyaktuk, Land of the Pingos, and the Arctic Ocean in her future once again!

At the **Arctic Ocean**, Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada 8-19-18

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Nares Mountain, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-10-18)

Day 38 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

Found it! Finally! No wonder it had taken so long. A the far S corner of Choutla Subdivision Road, a heavily shaded side road disappeared into the trees. 50 feet after the turn, partially hidden by vegetation, was the sign SPHP had been searching for – Blattas Point Road.

50 feet from the start of Blattas Point Road where the only sign is hidden.

Beyond the elusive sign, Blattas Point Road curved SE (L) and continued in that general direction for a mile or so before ending at a small sandy parking lot. Two private driveways left this area, one that went straight ahead, and one that went to the R. SPHP parked the G6. This was it! Lupe had arrived at the trailhead for Nares Mountain (5,833 ft.).

The Nares Mountain trailhead at the end of Blattas Point Road. Photo looks SE.

What a fabulous day! For the first time on this whole Dingo Vacation, not a cloud in the sky. Incredible! Should have gotten here hours ago, but after Lupe’s tremendous day on Grey Mountain (4.901 ft.) near Whitehorse yesterday, SPHP had slept a little too well. An oil change for the G6, a few other errands, and the drive to Carcross had chewed up more time. Not to mention the maddening search for Blattas Point Road despite what had seemed to be perfectly clear directions.

The American Dingo was here now, though! A quick bite to eat, then Loopster and SPHP set off on an unmarked trail across from, and a bit beyond, the trailhead. (11:31 AM, 51°F)

View from the trailhead. **Nares Mountain** can be climbed along either of the 2 ridges seen beyond Lupe. The ridge on the L is supposed to be easier, and was the way Lupe intended to take. Photo looks NE.

The trail started off passing through stands of aspens that had already lost most of their leaves. Lupe was soon past the trees out on open ground. She hadn’t gained much elevation yet, but Carcross and the N end of Bennett Lake were already in sight beyond Nares Lake.

*The trail starts off in this pleasant stand of aspens.*

Nares Mountain is going to be fabulous! We’ve barely gotten started and look at what we can see! That’s **Nares Lake** on the L. **Carcross** is that flat strip of land beyond me separating **Nares Lake** from **Bennett Lake**. Photo looks W.

The trail initially climbed NE at an easy to moderate pace. However, it soon became steep, and stayed that way. Tight switchbacks helped to slightly reduce the rate of climb. Most of the time Lupe was out on open terrain, but she came to short stretches of forest, too. The Carolina Dog liked the woods best of all, but the views from the open ground became steadily more impressive as she rapidly gained elevation.

A better look at **Carcross** between **Nares Lake** (near) and **Bennett Lake** (far). **Mount Gray (6,083 ft.)** (Center) is the peak beyond Carcross. Photo looks WSW.

Two big ridges separated by a deep drainage lead up to the S summit of Nares Mountain from the W. The ridge farthest N was supposed to be the easiest route. The S ridge was closer to Nares Lake, but rougher and much more heavily forested.

Fortunately, the trail Lupe was on was clearly heading for the easier N ridge. When she got high enough, the Carolina Dog had a good view looking up the drainage separating the two ridges.

The drainage between the two W ridges. Lupe stayed to the N (L). Photo looks E.

Glancing back. The trailhead (Center) is close to **Nares Lake** on this side of the line of light green trees. Photo looks SW.

The steep climb went on and on. The views kept improving. The trail curved gradually E, and Lupe began to see more of the long W ridge she was climbing. She could now see where the two W ridges joined at the upper end of the drainage between them.

*Don’t tell me you’re tired already! It’s still a long way! We are making progress, though. That’s a decent view of the S ridge beyond me. We’re staying to the N (L), though, remember?* Photo looks ESE.

**Mount Gray (6,083 ft.)** again. From this height, more of **Bennett Lake** is visible beyond **Carcross**. Photo looks WSW.

*Here’s a good view of the two W ridges! Once we get up to where they join, it won’t be too much farther to the S summit of Nares Mountain.* Photo looks ESE.

*This yellow woods is gorgeous, isn’t it? It’s about the last forest we will be coming to, though.*

Looking back at the lakes after passing through the yellow woods. Photo looks WSW.

Loopster had already made tons of progress up the big ridge, when she finally got high enough to see several rounded high points off to the NE. The big ridge she was climbing was taking her to the S summit of Nares Mountain, but the true summit was actually one of those rounded high points. SPHP wasn’t certain which one was it, yet, but if the American Dingo had enough time, she was going to visit the true summit, too.

Rounded high points come into view. It eventually turned out that the high point on the R is actually the **true summit of Nares Mountain**. Photo looks NE.

As Lupe approached the upper end of the drainage between the two W ridges, the slope of the ridge she was on gradually diminished. Getting easier! Still a long climb, but with a perfect day, the Carolina Dog was certainly going to make it at least as far as Nares Mountain’s S summit. The views were already awesome, and Looper ought to be able to see a lot more from up there.

*Come on! We’re getting closer to the upper end of the drainage!* Photo looks ESE.

High enough to see lots more of **Bennett Lake**. Photo looks SW.

**Montana Mountain (7,233 ft.)** (L), and **Brute Mountain (7,000 ft.)** (R). Photo looks SW.

*Hey, look! A big flat spot! This is getting easier. That’s the **true summit of Nares Mountain** behind me and slightly to the R.* Photo looks NNE.

Once Lupe made it beyond the upper end of the drainage between the 2 W ridges, the terrain flattened to a gentle slope. Across a grassy plain, one more rise was in sight off to the SE, a rock-strewn ridge certainly no more than another 100 feet higher. This ridge was an easy climb, and proved to be the S summit of Nares Mountain.

Approaching the **S summit of Nares Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

From a cairn at the high point, Lupe had some fantastic views. The true summit of Nares Mountain was in sight 2.5 km NNE. However, by far the most eye-catching scenes were of the big lakes to the E, S, and W, and of Montana Mountain (7,233 ft.) and Brute Mountain (7,000 ft.) to the SW.

Looper reaches the **S summit of Nares Mountain**. The **true summit** is on the R, still 2.5 km away. Photo looks NNE.

**Bennett Lake**, which the famed **Chilkoot trail** goes by, winds away into the mountains. Lupe was too far from the edge of Nares Mountain to see Carcross from the cairn at the S summit. Photo looks WSW.

**Montana Mountain** (L) and **Brute Mountain** (R) from **Nares Mountain S summit**. Photo looks SW.

**Montana Mountain** (Center) with help from the telephoto lens. The high point on the R may be **Mount Matheson**. Photo looks SSW.

**Brute Mountain** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

Lupe had gained 3,300 feet of elevation. The American Dingo was ready for a break. With temperatures in the upper 40’s °F, the NW breeze felt chilly. SPHP wrapped Loop in a pullover, and she took a short nap.

Napping at the S summit. **Montana Mountain** on the R. Photo looks SSE.

**Caribou Mountain (6,400 ft.)** (Center). **Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.)**, which Lupe had seen yesterday from Grey Mountain, is in the distance on the R. Photo looks NNW.

Two somewhat lower high points on Nares Mountain were visible along ridges extending SE and SW from the S summit. Since these points were considerably closer to where the S face of Nares Mountain drops off steeply, presumably Lupe would be able to see much more of Nares and Tagish Lakes, if she went down to them.

When Loop was done with her rest break, she did go closer to each of these high points, although not close enough to get to the best possible views. Worried about Lupe’s late start, SPHP was becoming anxious to head on to the true summit of Nares Mountain instead.

**Tagish Lake** from SE of Nares Mountain’s S summit. **Lime Mountain** is beyond Lupe on the other side of the lake. Photo looks ESE.

**Tagish Lake** and **Lime Mountain (5,222 ft.)** (R of Center). Photo looks ESE with help from the telephoto lens.

About as far down the SE ridge (L) as Lupe went. Presumably the lake views would have been even more spectacular had she gone all the way down to the high point on the L. Part of the **Windy Arm of Tagish Lake** is in sight. Photo looks SE.

**Mount Armstrong (4,915 ft.)** is the small mountain seen in the distance through the gap on the R. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Carcross** is the peninsula of land between **Nares Lake** (near side) and **Bennett Lake** (far side). Photo looks WSW.

As close to the high point on the SW ridge as Lupe went. **Montana Mountain** (L) and **Brute Mountain** (R) in the distance. Photo looks SW.

After quick, sub-optimal forays to the SE and SW, Lupe returned briefly to the S summit of Nares Mountain. She then began her trek to the true summit by going NNE down to a flat grassy plain and crossing it. Upon reaching the N end of the plain, Loop faced a 600 foot descent into the broad saddle leading to the true summit of Nares Mountain.

Back at the **S summit** again ready to head for the **true summit of Nares Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Crossing the grassy plain. Photo looks NNE.

Descending into the saddle leading to the **true summit** (L). Photo looks NNE.

The descent from the grassy plain down to the saddle was moderately steep and fairly rocky, but totally free of any significant obstacles. Lupe made it down to the saddle just fine, crossed it, and began climbing again. She skirted along the W side of the next big hill immediately S of the true summit. Goat paths helped make this traverse easier.

The Carolina Dog aimed for the saddle N of the hill she was on that led directly to the true summit. Once she made it to this upper saddle, all that was left was a 400 foot climb up the S face of Nares Mountain. No obstacles and nothing tricky to contend with. Lupe charged right on up the slope.

An hour and 20 minutes after leaving the S summit, Lupe reached the top of a 0.5 acre plateau. At the far N end, a cairn with a post marked the location of the true summit of Nares Mountain (5,833 ft.).

Crossing the lower saddle. **True summit** on the L. Photo looks NNE.

Traversing the hillside leading to an upper saddle. Photo looks NNE.

**Nares Mountain** from the upper saddle. Photo looks N.

On the way up the S slope. Photo looks N.

By crimson bushes on the way up **Nares**. Photo looks NW.

*Oh, we’ve done it! Here we are at the **top of Nares Mountain**!* Photo looks NNE.

No longer on the protected S side of the mountain, the American Dingo immediately met with a 25 mph NW wind sweeping over the summit plateau. Couldn’t have been much more than 40°F, so the wind felt cold as Lupe headed over to the cairn. SPHP congratulated her on another fabulous peakbagging success as soon as she got there.

At the **true summit of Nares Mountain**. **Tagish Lake** and **Lime Mountain (5,222 ft.)** (R) in view. Photo looks ESE.

**Montana Mountain** (L) and **Brute Mountain** (R) from the **true summit of Nares Mountain**. Photo looks SW.

**Caribou Mountain (6,400 ft.)** (R) from Nares. Photo looks NW.

Lupe was no fan of the chilly wind, but a discovery soon made her forget all about it. A marmot lived at the top of Nares Mountain! Naturally, the Carolina Dog was keenly interested. However, the marmot had chosen its home wisely. Ensconced in a collection of dark-colored rocks, the marmot was monarch of a virtually impregnable fortress. Lupe kept sniffing, circling, and peering into the dark crevasses between the rocks, but to no avail.

Inspecting the marmot fortress. Nares and Bennett lakes in the distance. Photo looks WSW.

SPHP tried to interest Lupe in the amazing views, repeatedly calling her away from the marmot fortress. The Carolina Dog did come, but as soon as SPHP’s attention was averted to some splendor on the horizon, she tended to slink back to continue searching for some weakness in the marmot’s defenses.

**Montana Mountain** (L) and **Brute Mountain** (R) from Nares. The **S summit of Nares**, which Lupe had just come from, is visible in the foreground a little to the L of Montana Mountain. Photo looks SW.

**Tagish Lake** and **Lime Mountain** (R). Photo looks ESE.

**Windy Arm of Tagish Lake**. **Bove Island** (L). **Escarpment Mountain (5,800 ft.)** (L of Center) on the far shore. **Mount Patterson (6,468 ft.)** is straight out from Lupe. Photo looks S.

Inspecting marmot fortress defenses again. **Caribou Mountain** (R). Photo looks NW.

**Crag Lake**. The **S end of Marsh Lake** is in the distance. Photo looks NE.

**Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.)** (Center). **Caribou Mountain** (L). Photo looks N.

The summit plateau was roughly 0.25 to 0.50 an acre in size. The only notable features were the cairn and the marmot fortress. After a look at the views in all directions, Lupe and SPHP retreated slightly below the S rim to escape the wind. Resting here for a while, SPHP petted Lupe. Some of the very best views from Nares Mountain were on display.

**Bove Island** in **Tagish Lake**. Photo looks SE.

**S summit Nares Mountain** (R). **Montana Mountain** (R) on the horizon. Photo looks S.

A wider view of **Tagish Lake**. **Lime Mountain** (L) and **Bove Island** (R). Photo looks SE.

**Lime Mountain** (Center). **Mount Minto (6,913 ft.)** is the big peak slightly to the R and beyond Lime Mountain. Photo looks SE.

A wider view looking S. **Bove Island** and **Tagish Lake** both on the L. **S summit of Nares Mountain** and **Montana Mountain** both on the R.

Nearly 50 minutes shot by up on Nares Mountain. The sun was sinking. Lupe returned to the summit cairn once more. She felt compelled to stop by the marmot fortress again, too, to see if the marmot was ready to come out and play. However, the marmot told Loop she’d have to take a rain check on that, even though it wasn’t raining.

Back at the summit cairn. Photo looks NE.

Pleading with the marmot to come out and play. Photo looks WSW.

The return trip was such a marvelous time! As evening shadows began to lengthen, autumn colors glowed in the sunlight. Incredible sweeping views every step of the way! Lupe didn’t have to, but she climbed back to the S summit of Nares Mountain for a final look. Back to the NNE, the true summit was still brightly lit beneath the blue Yukon sky.

Starting down Nares Mountain. Photo looks WSW.

At the **S summit** again. **True summit of Nares Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Then it was down the long northernmost W ridge at an ever steepening pace, facing the glorious view of Carcross, Nares and Bennett Lakes, and Mount Gray as the sun slid toward a phalanx of western peaks. Later in the darkening woods, and on down the tight switchbacks, the sense of airiness melted away.

Nares Mountain was destined to be the last Yukon peak Lupe would climb on this Dingo Vacation, but one more fabulous peak remained. Half an hour away, in far NW British Columbia, was a mountain on the edge of Alaska, one the American Dingo had been close to several times on this trip, but conditions had never been right for it.

Back at the trailhead, tired and hungry, Lupe gobbled her Alpo. Stars overhead! The sky was still 80 to 90% clear! Nares Mountain had been a fantastic day, and tomorrow was full of promise, too. (9:30 PM, 53°F)

**Nares Mountain**, Yukon Territory, Canada 9-10-18

Directions to the Nares Mountain trailhead – From Carcross go 2 km NE on Tagish Road (Hwy 8) watching for a sign for Choutla Subdivision on the R near the top of a small rise. A km from the highway, Choutla Road makes a rectangular loop. Blattas Point Road heads SW into the trees at the far S corner opposite from where the loop begins, the Blattas Point Road sign being hidden 50 feet in after already on it. Follow Blattas Point Road 2 km to the very end at 2 private driveways. Park in a small parking area on the R. No signs or amenities.

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