Yeah. Weather is supposed to be much better there.
Sort of ironic. The smoke of the Arctic apocalypse had driven the Carolina Dog back to the Yukon during her first foray into Alaska this summer. Now rain was driving her out a second and final time.
The rest of the day was a long, scenic drive. A hitchhiker picked up near sundown made it somewhat interesting. A young woman from Slovenia, who had been all over the world, was quite a talker and optimist. She believed she would live forever. Well, why not? At 10:30 PM, SPHP dropped Miss Positive Thinking off in Tok, her destination for the night.
8-29-23, 12:33 PM – As usual, the American Dingo had breezed through Canadian customs late this morning. Happily, conditions actually were better here in the Yukon! Now on a high bank overlooking the silt-laden White River, Horsecamp Hill(4,600 ft.) was in sight.
Horsecamp Hill (L) from the White River. Photo looks N.
Every year we say we’re going to climb Horsecamp Hill, SPHP, but we never do it. Why not today?
I know we could, Looper, and someday we will, but since we’re back in the Yukon this early in the season, there’s an even greater adventure we can get into position for if we keep going. I’m thinking this is our big chance to visit Observation Mountain(6,824 ft.) and see the Kaskawulsh Glacier in Kluane National Park.
That would be spectacular, SPHP! Been on my list of possibilities forever, too. But do you really think we can do it? What about Bullion Creek?
Might be now or never, Loopster. It’s a multi-day backpacking trip for us, and getting across Bullion Creek can be a problem, but this time of year it might be running low. Worth a shot, isn’t it?
I don’t know, SPHP. The White River seems to have plenty of water in it. Have to admit, I would love to see the Kaskawulsh Glacier, though. It’s huge, isn’t it?
Oh, yeah! Miles and miles long. The Kaskawulsh Glacier originates way up in the remote icefields of the St. Elias Mountains, Loop.
Horsecamp Hill was almost a sure thing, while Observation Mountain was a long shot. Bullion Creek had a bad reputation, although the rest of the two-day trek up the Slims River valley to the Kaskawulsh Glacier shouldn’t be difficult.
Not that convinced Horsecamp Hill isn’t the best choice, SPHP, especially when we’re already here, but if you promise you won’t let me drown in Bullion Creek, I guess I’m willing to try for Observation Mountain.
I’ll do everything possible to make sure you won’t regret it, Looper.
Abandoning Horsecamp Hill once again, the drive S continued.
8-29-23, 1:35 PM – The Donjek was the next big river along the Alaska Highway, and near the site of one of Lupe’s most dangerous adventures ever. SPHP parked the RAV4 at a favorite spot overlooking the river.
C’mon, Loopster! Let’s get out and have a look.
Parked along the Donjek River. Photo looks W.
Wow! There’s a lot of water in the river, SPHP. I don’t think we’ve ever seen the Donjek with so much flow before. Look at how wide it is!
Along the Donjek River. Photo looks WSW.
True! The Donjek River had always been wide, but on other occasions when Lupe had been here, most of the flow had been limited to a few braided channels among many exposed sand bars. Today, nearly all of the sand bars were submerged. Not a flood, or anything like that, but still quite impressive.
The mighty Donjek! St. Elias Mountains beyond. Photo looks S.
An awesome sight, but SPHP still didn’t think a thing of it beyond simply appreciating the view. Of course, any stop along the Donjek River these days required a stroll over toward the Alaska Highway bridge for a look at Donjek Crossing Mountain(5,774 ft.).
Donjek Crossing Mountain (Center). Photo looks NE.
Remember being up there, SPHP? What a view! We could see miles along the Donjek River, both upstream and down, plus some of the snowy giants of the St. Elias Mountains.
Yes, it was incredible up there, alright, Loop. What I’ll always remember most, though, was the lynx that had its eye on you for breakfast!
That was a big kitty! Speaking of food, isn’t it about lunch time, SPHP?
Yup. Part of why we stopped here. Ritz crackers, cheese, and summer sausage. How does that sound, Looper?
Good, apparently. The Carolina Dog was soon back in the RAV4, up on her pink blanket, munching happily away.
After lunch, the drive continued. SPHP stopped at Burwash Creek so Lupe could get out for a few minutes at this possible site for the start of a future adventure, and again near the S end of Kluane Lake, only a mile or two before the turn to the Thechal Dahl visitor centre.
8-29-23, 3:54 PM, Kluane Lake – A big pullout here featured an unusual view. Looking SW toward the Slims River valley, Lupe could see a vast mud flat that had once been part of Kluane Lake. In 2016, meltwaters from the Kaskawulsh Glacier had been rerouted due to glacial retreat from the Slims River feeding Kluane Lake into the Alsek River instead, in a modern day example of stream capture. The loss of all that flow had resulted in a reduction in the level of Kluane Lake, exposing the mud.
Kluane Lake near the mud flats at the end of the Slims River valley. Photo looks SW.S end of Kluane Lake. Photo looks E.Another view of the mud flats. Photo looks SW.
8-29-23, 4:02 PM, SW end of Kluane Lake, Thechal Dahl visitor centre – Rather excited by the notion that Lupe might actually get to Observation Mountain and see the Kaskawulsh Glacier, SPHP approached the visitor centre hoping for additional information on the Bullion Creek crossing.
Locked! What? Already?
A lady said that there was a ranger around the corner of the building. SPHP went to talk to him. The short conversation was not so sweet.
The visitor centre is open 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM. We’re closed now.
With that, the young ranger climbed into his park vehicle and drove off. 15 minutes later, SPHP was chatting with a couple from Switzerland, when another young man appeared, evidently intent upon returning a large, black, clumsy-looking, bear-proof canister.
Excuse me, but by any chance, have you just been to Observation Mountain or the Kaskawulsh Glacier?
He had, but the news was not good. When SPHP asked about the Bullion Creek crossing, the young man lifted his trouser leg to reveal multiple bruises and a deeper wound. Bullion Creek was more than mid-thigh on him – fast, frigid, and rocky. He strongly advised against taking a dog.
Dang! Should have climbed Horsecamp Hill.
8-29-23, 6:35 PM, 72ºF, Slims West trailhead – Lupe trotted along the broad path leading SW up the Slims River valley. A former road, this first part of the trail was back in the trees, away from the open valley.
Isn’t this the same trail that goes to Sheep Mountain(6,400 ft.), SPHP?
That’s right, Looper. The Sheep Creek trail branches off this one not too far from here. This is the way to Bullion Creek, Observation Mountain, and the Kaskawulsh Glacier, too. We’re just going to Shepherd’s Knoll, though, this evening. It’s not far. You’ve been there before.
The single track dirt path to Shepherd’s Knoll was on the L, marked by a small white cairn only a few hundred feet beyond the well-signed R turn onto the Sheep Creek trail.
Near the start of the Shepherd’s Knoll trail. Photo looks NE.
The Shepherd’s Knoll trail was short and easy. 115 feet of elevation gain total, and even from the parking lot, it was only 0.7 mile to the summit. Lupe enjoyed the stroll, and the scenery was already magnificent.
Climbing Shepherd’s Knoll (R). Sheep Mountain (L). Photo looks NE.
8-29-23, 7:10 PM, Shepherd’s Knoll – The true summit was a flat, bushy area tucked in among the trees. Snow-capped, and somewhat ominous sounding Vulcan Mountain (9,055 ft.) was in view directly S across the Slims River valley.
Vulcan Mountain (Center) from Shepherd Knoll’s summit. Photo looks S.Vulcan Mountain (L of Center). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
Going a little farther NE, Lupe had a terrific view of the mud flats at the SW end of Kluane Lake. Back in the opposite direction, the enormous Slims River valley disappeared around a curve S.
Kluane Lake beyond the mud flats. Photo looks NE.The enormous Slims River valley. Photo looks SSW.
Sorry we didn’t climb Horsecamp Hill today, Loopster. Wish we had now.
No worries, SPHP. Shepherd’s Knoll is beautiful, too, even though it isn’t very big, and we knew Observation Mountain and the Kaskawulsh Glacier were a long shot. So, what are we going to do tomorrow? Any plans?
Yeah. Been thinking about it. I still want to check in at the Thechal Dhal visitor centre tomorrow morning. Who knows, maybe they can give us some ideas or encouragement on getting across Bullion Creek? If not, we could still take the Bullion Plateau trail. It doesn’t go to any peaks, but leads to a view of Red Castle Ridge(6,955 ft.).
Oh, I remember seeing Red Castle Ridge from Sheep Mountain, SPHP. That might be fun!
Little ole Shepherd’s Knoll was a terrific vantage point on this beautiful evening. Lupe lingered a while, enjoying this taste of what might be in store tomorrow before heading back to the RAV4.
Vulcan Mountain (R) beyond what remains of the Slims River. Photo looks S.
8-29-23, 8:38 PM – The lovely evening ended at the S end of Kluane Lake, where the were-puppy made a sudden attack on SPHP.
Ow! Sheesh! Stop that! We really should have climbed Horsecamp Hill. Guess we better do something far more ambitious than Shepherd’s Knoll tomorrow. You’ve got way too much energy, Loopster!
Along the shore of the big lake, the were-puppy merely grinned.
The were-puppy at Kluane Lake, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-29-23
Part 2 of Day 28 & Day 29 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-19-23, 1:39 PM – As always, the relaxing drive up the Engineer Creek valley, over Windy Pass, and thence up the Blackstone River valley had been gorgeous.
We’re getting close to the N end of Tombstone Territorial Park, Looper. Want to stop at Chapman Lake, and get out for a sniff?
Too bad, SPHP. I’m always ready for a sniff, though!
Chapman Lake near the N end of Tombstone Territorial Park. Photo looks N.
8-19-23, 2:15 PM, Dempster Highway near km 96 – The Chapman Lake sniff had been a short one, just enough to stretch a bit and have a look around. Now at the lower section of a roomy two-tier pullout on the E side of the highway, Lupe was going to get to stay here longer, yet the Carolina Dog seemed content resting on her pink blanket in the RAV4.
Just going to lie there waiting for lunch, Loop? If you get out, I’ll throw a ball for you.
What’s on the menu, SPHP?
Dinty Moore chicken and dumplings. Won’t take long to heat them up.
Sounds good! Make sure you save plenty for me, SPHP. I’m famished!
After lunch, Lupe did get out to have a look at the bubbling pond and chase a ball. SPHP did some cleaning and straightening up of the RAV4. More than 2 hours had flown by the time Lupe hit the road S again.
Play ball! Rule No. 1 – the Dingo always wins. Photo looks NW.By the bubbling pond, a traditional stop. Photo looks E.
On the way to North Fork Pass, SPHP stopped for a look at the beautiful upper East Blackstone River. After going over the pass, Lupe escaped the RAV4 at a big pullout with a famous view. Far in the distance, beyond the upper end of the North Klondike River valley, the sharp spire of Tombstone Mountain(7,192 ft.) touched the clouds.
Upper East Blackstone River from the Dempster Highway. Photo looks SSW.Tombstone Mountain (Center) beyond the North Klondike River valley. Photo looks SW.
Much closer, another mountain of more immediate interest was in sight.
See that big ridge to the SE, Loopster? That’s your objective tomorrow, Mount Chester Henderson(6,300 ft.), also known as Discovery Ridge!
It’s clearly higher, SPHP. We ought to climb it, too!
I’d love to, Loop! If we’ve got time, we’ll take a stab at it.
Mount Chester Henderson (Center) aka Discovery Ridge. Mount Robert Henderson (L) from the Tombstone Mountain pullout. Photo looks SE.
8-19-23, 5:15 PM, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, km 71.5 –
That was quick, SPHP. What did you find out?
About what I expected, Looper. We shouldn’t have dilly-dallied so much. The Interpretive Centre closed at 5:00 PM. Think we know what we need to do, though. I’m going to use one of the picnic tables to heat up some chili for dinner, then we’ll go see if we can find the Charcoal Ridge trail.
Both dinner and the reconnaisance mission were successful. The trail was right where it was supposed to be, on the S side of Charcoal Creek, a little N of the Interpretive Centre, directly across from the campground.
8-19-23, 8:59 PM – A big pullout along the North Klondike River well S of the Interpretive Centre would do for the night. The evening sky was beautiful, raising great hopes for tomorrow.
Late evening at the pullout along the North Klondike River.
Wow! I don’t think we’ve ever seen such wonderful weather in Tombstone Territorial Park before, SPHP.
Believe you’re right, Loop. If tomorrow is anything like this, it’s going to be a fantastic day! We’re all set and well-positioned for it, too. We’ll hit the Charcoal Ridge trail bright and early.
Maybe we’ll make it to both Hendersons, SPHP!
Oh, I hope so, Looper. That would be above and beyond expectations.
8-20-23, 7:57 AM, 46ºF, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, km 71.5 – SPHP had already shared beef stew with Lupe, and had a vanilla Equate. Overcast this morning. Disappointing, but the clouds were high and light. Everything was ready, and the American Dingo was rarin’ to go.
What’s the holdup, SPHP?
Don’t see my poles, Loop. Soon as I find them, we’ll be on our way.
The poles weren’t in their usual spot. Where could they be? SPHP tore the back of the RAV4 apart. Nothing.
Oh, my gosh! They aren’t here, Loop. The poles aren’t in the RAV4!
Ridiculous, SPHP! You always bring them. Think back. Did you misplace them when you were cleaning the RAV4 at the bubbling pond?
Hmm. No, I don’t remember seeing them there, Loopster, but I wasn’t looking for them, either. They were the last thing on my mind, since we weren’t going to use them there.
Oh, come on! Where was the last place you remember having them, SPHP?
A logical and easy question to answer. It dawned on SPHP in a flash.
Criminitly! Think I know where they are! Get in the RAV4, Looper. We’re heading back.
Back where, SPHP?
Sapper Hill.
What! You left them on the mountain, SPHP?
No. Not likely. You know how when we return from a trek, I often lean the poles up against the RAV4 before breaking them down and putting them in? Well, I bet I never did that. They were probably still leaning against the RAV4 yesterday when we just drove off and left them, Loop.
Sapper Hill, that’s such a long way! How far back is that?
Nearly 125 km one way, Loopster. So much for Robert Henderson today, maybe Chester, too!
Even if you’re right, SPHP, someone may have found your poles and taken them by now.
Yeah. Nothing we can do about that, Loop. I might have run over them backing out, too. We’ll see.
A minute later, in an unexpected twist of fate, instead of setting out for Mount Chester Henderson, Lupe was back on her pink blanket in the RAV4 heading N.
8-20-23, 10:27 AM, 56ºF – Driving over the bridge over Engineer Creek, SPHP then turned R off the Dempster Highway into the parking area that had served as the trailhead for Sapper Hill(3,084 ft.). Oh, joy!
Luck of the Dingo! There they are, Loopster. My Leki poles!
You didn’t run over them, either, SPHP. They look fine.
SPHP ran out to grab the poles, put them in their customary place in the RAV4, and Lupe was on her way back S.
8-20-23, 1:08 PM, 55ºF, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, km 71.5 – SPHP parked the RAV4 at the empty overflow parking lot.
We’ll stash the RAV4 here since we won’t be getting back until late, Loop. When I said we’d be getting an early start today, I never meant early in the afternoon, yet here we are. We’re still doing this today, right?
Lupe hopped out of the RAV4. The sky was more darkly overcast than it had been this morning.
Tombstone Interpretive Centre (L), Goldensides Mountain (R). Photo looks N.
What’s the forecast for tomorrow, SPHP?
60% chance of rain, Loop.
This looks good, SPHP!
Yeah, kind of now or never, Looper. Onward! Puppy, ho!
After heading over to the E side of the Dempster Highway, Lupe sniffed her way N in the ditch to Charcoal Creek. Picking up the trail along the S bank, the American Dingo followed it NE into a valley full of trees and tall bushes. Almost right away, a familiar sight was ahead.
On the Charcoal Creek Trail. Goldensides Mountain (Center). Photo looks NNE.
Goldensides was a fun one, SPHP! The whole mountain lived up to its name that day! The fall colors were spectacular, and I really enjoyed the big scramble up the rocks on the S side of the mountain.
Charcoal Creek was a small stream with decent flow. The trail never strayed far from it. Lupe came to many overgrown spots and large branches in the way along its banks, as well as some damp regions of soft, black mud. None of these obstacles were all that difficult to get by, although it was easy to see that some regions were prone to flooding.
Off to the E, a hill was soon in sight. In order to reach the ridge leading to Mount Chester Henderson, Lupe was going to have to climb it.
W end of the ridge (R) leading to Mount Chester Henderson. Photo looks E.In a recently flooded region along Charcoal Creek. Photo looks NE.
After following Charcoal Creek for roughly 0.30 km, the trail veered off to the R, climbing a steep bank up into a region of tall bushes. The hill, which was the W end of Charcoal Ridge, was now directly E.
Hopelessly lost down in a thickly overgrown jungle she couldn’t begin to see over, Lupe followed the often deeply rutted trail toward the hill. The trail was gooshy in many places, leaving SPHP trying to avoid frequent stretches of soft, slippery, black mud. Lupe had little choice but to plod right through them.
Closing in on the base of the hill, the rate of climb increased. The bushes began getting shorter, allowing Lupe to finally catch glimpses what was ahead. The American Dingo soon reached a clearing that was very wet. Ripe blueberries were abundant in this region, slowing SPHP’s progress.
Heading for the W end of Charcoal Ridge (Center). Photo looks E.At the wet clearing. Photo looks ENE.
Lupe gained 200 feet of elevation before getting beyond the last of the wet regions, and more than twice that before the wild blueberries came to an end. The trail became very steep as it went directly up the hill. The bushes went on and on, SPHP sometimes using them for support. They didn’t start to thin out until the Carolina Dog had gained 800 feet of elevation. At this point, the trail began to switchback to some degree.
By the time Lupe had gained 900 feet of elevation, she was in the alpine, above all the tall bushes on more open ground. Still lots of lower bushes around, but they were only a foot high. A mix of tundra and small scree completed the scene. The last 50 feet hadn’t been all that steep, but the big climb had been wearying.
8-20-23, 2:55 PM, W end of Charcoal Ridge – A couple of low hills capped by small rock outcroppings were now ahead. SPHP dropped the pack, and sat down on the tundra.
Let’s take a short break, Loop.
Lupe was happy to lie down next to SPHP. The views back to the W were already impressive. Way down in the North Klondike River valley, both the Tombstone Interpretive Centre and campground were clearly visible on the other side of the Dempster Highway. The bright blue RAV4, sitting alone in the overflow parking lot was easy to spot, too. Toward the SW, Peak 6246, a subpeak of Fold Mountain, towered above it all.
Peak 6246 (L). Tombstone Interpretive Centre (R of Center), campground (R), and Dempster Highway in the valley below. Photo looks SW.
Looks to me like we could climb Peak 6246, SPHP.
It does! Maybe someday we will, Loopster. I’ll try to remember to put it on your list of possibilities.
Peak 7200 and North Fork Mountain(6,000 ft.) were also in view, over by the big bend where the North Klondike River sweeps down from its upper valley, where Lupe had seen Tombstone Mountain in the distance yesterday.
Peak 7200 (L of Center), North Fork Mountain (R). North Klondike River (Center). Photo looks W.
Plenty more to see from here. Goldensides Mountain(6,000 ft.) was less than 3 km almost due N, and Lupe could see a long way S down the North Klondike River valley. However, the Carolina Dog still had a long way to go, and the fun, easy part of the journey was now ahead. After sharing beef jerky and water, Lupe was ready to move on.
The first rocky rise to the E wasn’t far from the break spot.
Might as well tag some of these high points along the way, SPHP.
Sure! Go for it, Loopster!
Approaching the first two high points (Center & R). Photo looks E.
The views from the first high point weren’t all that different. After a quick look, Lupe continued on to the second one. From here, she had an excellent view of Mount Chester Henderson(6,300 ft.). The top of Mount Robert Henderson(6,998 ft.) was in sight, too.
Tombstone campground (L), Peak 7200 (L of Center), North Klondike River (Center), North Fork Mountain (R) from the first high point. Photo looks W.Heading for the second high point (R). Photo looks E.North Klondike River valley (Center) from the second high point. Photo looks S.Mount Chester Henderson (Center), Mount Robert Henderson (L). Photo looks E.
From this second high point, Lupe also had a better view of what was ahead. More hills were in sight along Charcoal Ridge, including HP5400 at the far E end where Lupe would eventually turn SE toward Mount Chester Henderson.
Charcoal Ridge (L & Center) from the second high point. HP5400 (R of Center) at the lower end of the ridge coming down from the R. Photo looks E.
The third high point along Charcoal Ridge was bigger and farther away. The trail climbed NE toward it, eventually leveling out shortly before reaching a small cairn perched along a sharp edge. From this cairn, Blackcap Mountain(6,000 ft.) was starting to come into view beyond Goldensides, and the upper regions of the Charcoal Creek valley were visible for the first time.
Blackcap Mountain (L), upper Charcoal Creek valley (R). Photo looks NE.Mount Robert Henderson (L), Mount Chester Henderson (R), Charcoal Ridge in the foreground. Photo looks E.
The cairn wasn’t quite at the top of the third hill, but a little way from it. Going over to the high point, the view back to the W showed that Lupe had already gained substantial elevation since leaving the first two hills. Interesting, but what really mattered was what was ahead. Looking E, there were actually some dips along Charcoal Ridge on the way to HP5000, the fourth high point.
Peak 6246 (L), second high point (L of Center) below, first high point (beyond Lupe) way down near the W end of Charcoal Ridge, Peak 7200 (R edge). Photo looks WSW.HP5000 (far L), Mount Robert Henderson (L), Mount Chester Henderson (R). Photo looks E.
As the American Dingo continued E along Charcoal Ridge, she hit all the high points. The trail was easy to follow and generally gained elevation, but with significant flat and downhill sections, too. The ridge narrowed as Lupe went along until it was only 10 feet wide, or even less in spots.
Approaching HP5000 (L of Center), Photo looks E.A quick glance back from HP5000. Second high point (L) and third high point (Center) farther down the ridge. Photo looks W.
Most of the time the trail ran right along the crest of the ridge. Beyond deep valleys on both sides, Lupe enjoyed increasingly spectacular views of Goldensides Mountain(6,000 ft.) and Blackcap Mountain(6,000 ft.) to the N, and Mount Chester Henderson(6,300 ft.) to the SE.
Goldensides Mountain (L), Blackcap Mountain (R). Photo looks N.Mount Chester Henderson aka Discovery Ridge from Charcoal Ridge. Photo looks SE.Heading for HP5400 (L), Mount Robert Henderson (L of Center), Mount Chester Henderson (R). Photo looks E.
Charcoal Ridge wasn’t scary or dangerous. Overall progress was as good as SPHP’s aerobic capacity would allow. Such a fun trek! Approaching the E end of the ridge, the trail curved SE, intersecting the ridge leading to Mount Chester Henderson without tagging HP5400.
Near a little knob on the way to HP5400 (far L). Mount Robert Henderson (L), Mount Chester Henderson (R). Photo looks E.
Skipping HP5400 wasn’t going to do, though. The Carolina Dog had to visit this important point!
Peak 7200 (L) and Goldensides Mountain (R) from HP5400. Photo looks WNW.
8-20-23, 4:49 PM, E end of Charcoal Ridge – HP5400 was a significant point along the journey. Lupe enjoyed new views here. Off to the NNE was a region of flat highlands and small mountains with higher peaks in the distance. One of the highest peaks was a real eye-catcher due to an unusual sawtooth summit ridge.
What mountain is that, SPHP? It doesn’t look like any of the others.
I have no idea, Loop. Might not even have a name since those peaks aren’t that close to the highway.
An easily recognizable peak like that ought to have a name, SPHP. Plenty of people must have seen it from here.
Well, what do you suggest, Loopster? And no, it can’t be Squirrel Peak or Dingo Mountain, or anything like that.
How about Serrated Mountain, SPHP?
Oh, I like that, Looper. Fits, and it’s an unusual name.
Serrated Mountain (L) in the distance. Photo looks NNE.
A more complete view of Mount Robert Henderson was also available from the HP5400 region.
Mount Robert Henderson (Center) from the E end of Charcoal Ridge. Photo looks E.Mount Chester Henderson from HP5400. Photo looks SE.
The weather hadn’t changed much. Still overcast with a 10 mph breeze. Encouragingly, not a drop of rain so far. From HP5400, another ridge ran SE directly toward Mount Chester Henderson(6,300 ft.). While this ridge was no problem, exactly how to get to the summit wasn’t clear at all. Horizontal bands of rock ran all along a very steep upper rim.
On the ridge leading to Mount Chester Henderson. Photo looks SE.
I don’t know, Looper. Sure looks like a line of cliffs up there!
The trail keeps going, SPHP. Why don’t we just follow it?
Yeah, that did seem like the obvious thing to do.
Looking back down the Charcoal Creek valley. Photo looks W.
Near the end of the approach, the increasingly faint trail left the top of the SE ridge to skirt along the W side of a hill of scree. Once around this hill, Lupe lost 40 feet of elevation on the way down to a broad saddle of tundra. Another scree slope was now ahead with more tundra above it. Hundreds of feet higher, the line of cliffs along the upper rim of Mount Chester Henderson towered above all.
Skirting the scree hill. Photo looks SE.Down at the tundra saddle. Photo looks SE.
So far, so good, SPHP.
True, but this is where it starts getting interesting, Loopster.
What was left of the trail clearly went right on up the scree slope ahead. Following it, Lupe reached the region of tundra above the scree. As the American Dingo kept climbing, she crossed little streams trickling down the increasingly steep slope.
Lupe was at about 5,800 feet when a choice had to be made. Impassable cliffs were directly ahead.
We either have to go E or W around these cliffs, Loop. Any ideas?
E, SPHP. The trail was trending that way when I last had a scent.
Yeah, I kind of thought E looked best, too, from a distance, Looper, but can’t see that territory now that we’re on this slope. The tundra extends even higher over toward the W. Looks a little like there might be a route up above it. Hard to say without climbing way up there.
Check your map, SPHP.
I already did, Loop. Definitely some easier territory over to the E toward Mount Robert Henderson, if we can get to it. Not sure if we can.
I vote E, SPHP.
It’s unanimous then, Loopster.
Angling ESE while still climbing, Lupe left the cohesive security of the tundra. Nothing but steep slopes of loose rock ahead. Surprisingly deep and steep ravines were sometimes negotiable, and sometimes forced the Carolina Dog higher. At 6,000 feet, the base of the cliffs was still quite a bit higher. They weren’t that big, but didn’t have any breaks that looked like reasonable routes through them.
On the increasingly steep slopes. Mount Robert Henderson (L). Photo looks E.
Lupe kept angling ESE. The steep loose slopes went on and on. Still no decent breaks in the cliff line above, and the L shoulder of the mountain still wasn’t in sight. SPHP was getting impatient. This cautious traverse while rocks clattered down the mountain was chewing up a bunch of time. Eventually, Lupe wasn’t that far from the base of the cliffs.
Near the base of the cliffs. Photo looks S.
The cliffs eventually began to shrink. Short chutes where it looked like it might be fairly easy to scramble above them appeared.
Let’s head up here, Loop.
SPHP soon regretted that decision. The cliffs bands were taller than they looked. Although there was some solid exposed bedrock, lots of the rock was rotten. The scramble got scary. It looked like there were plenty of pawholds, but big chunks that appeared well-anchored crumbled away and went crashing down the mountain.
Halfway up a near vertical section, nothing was solid. It all wanted to move. Somehow Lupe scrambled up to a dangerous little shelf above and to the R of SPHP. The American Dingo stood there on the brink of destruction smiling down on SPHP like everything was cool.
Stay put, Loop! Don’t move! Just stay right there! You’re in a terrible spot, and this whole chunk of the mountain I’m clinging to feels like it’s about to give way. If it starts to go, climb if you can, or you’ll go with me!
Heart racing, very carefully and gently, oh so gently, testing everything, SPHP managed to creep above the worst spot.
Didn’t listen to a word I said, did you, Looper? How did you get up there?
Still smiling, Lupe was higher yet, still above SPHP, but now to the L. A sense of relief flooded in over SPHP. She was at a much better spot. The top appeared to be only a few feet above the Carolina Mountain Goat.
Scrambling to safety! Photo looks SSE.
You’ve got it made now, Loop. Just go to the top! I’ll join you shortly.
Lupe vanished above the rim. Not the top. The cliff bands extended 40 or 50 feet higher. Fortunately, none were as steep, loose, or dangerous as what had already been negotiated.
Just below the top. Photo looks SSW.
8-20-23, 6:33 PM – As the tilt of the cliff bands suggested, Lupe now stood on a gentle, tundra-covered slope above them, a grand panorama of an enormous valley before her with many ridges and mountains beyond it. The sky was no longer completely overcast, and regions of sunshine drifted over the scene.
The grand panorama above the cliffs. Photo looks S.
This is the side of the mountain we should have come up, SPHP. So easy!
Maybe we’ll be going back this way, Loopster. We’re sure not descending the same way we just came up. C’mon, the summit’s in sight off to the SW. Let’s get to the top of this beast!
Heading for Mount Chester Henderson’s true summit (L). Photo looks SW.
The true summit was a hill of talus, both farther back from the cliff line and farther SW than SPHP expected. Descending 50 feet on tundra to minimize the amount talus Lupe would have to cross to get there, the rest of the trek was a gradual ascent along tundra-covered slopes.
The summit hill proved to be an easy walkup.
Closing in on the true summit (R). Photo looks SW.
8-20-23, 6:53 PM, 46ºF, Mount Chester Henderson(6,300 ft.) – In a chilly 15 mph SW breeze beneath a partly cloudy sky, Lupe stood on the highest rock of a true summit region roughly 25 feet in diameter. This area was about as flat as it could be covered by big rocks.
At Mount Chester Henderson’s true summit. Photo looks WSW.
SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.
Congratulations, Loop! We made it! I must commend your fearlessness and tremendous scrambling skills.
Oh, Ye of little faith! Was there ever any doubt, SPHP?
For a few minutes on those rotten cliffs, yes, I had serious doubts!
All the more reason to celebrate with a chocolate coconut bar, SPHP!
Certainly, but first, a look around. With so many clouds present, I don’t want to take a chance on the weather deteriorating and hiding everything.
Mount Chester Henderson’s summit was an amazing place! Far to the WSW, Mount Frank Rae(7,700 ft.), Mount Monolith(7,000 ft.), and even the tip of Tombstone Mountain(7,192 ft.) were all in sight, yet SPHP didn’t recognize them amid the gloom in that direction.
4.5 km NW, very easily recognizable, the American Dingo looked down on Goldensides Mountain(6,000 ft.), a summit where she had once been. Blackcap Mountain(6,000 ft.) was NE of Goldensides. Beyond these two, both Angelcomb Peak(6,300 ft.) and Trapper Mountain(6,627 ft.) were visible in the distance. Serrated Mountain was NNE.
Goldensides (Center), Angelcomb Peak (by Lupe’s ear), Trapper Mountain (R) above her back. Photo looks NW.Serrated Mountain (L). Photo looks NE.Zoomed in on Serrated Mountain (Center). Photo looks NNE.
The view of Mount Robert Henderson(6,998 ft.), only 3 km back to the ENE, was both awesome and discouraging.
Looks like could get pretty high, but realistically, I doubt Robert will ever be in the cards for us, Loopster. Appears beyond our capabilities.
Don’t give up so easy, SPHP. The back side might not be that bad.
Well, maybe. The topo map seems to agree with you, Looper, but, in any case, we don’t have time to check it out today.
Mount Robert Henderson (R of Center). Photo looks ENE.
Countless more mountains were to the S, none of which SPHP had any clue about. Looking down Mount Chester Henderson’s long SW ridge, the North Klondike River valley was flanked on both sides by some of these mountains as the stream flowed away to its eventual rendezvous with the Yukon River at Dawson City.
North Klondike River valley (L of Center), Mount Chester Henderson’s SW ridge (R). Photo looks SW.
Enough already, SPHP! How about that chocolate coconut bar?
Fine! Chilly up here in the wind, anyway. Please stay just another minute or two, Loop, then I’ll call you down, and we’ll take a break.
Atop Mount Chester Henderson, waiting for the signal. Photo looks SW.
That’s good, Loop! Come on down!
8-20-23, 7:10 PM – NE of the summit and 30 feet lower, Lupe rested on the tundra somewhat sheltered from the wind, enjoying a moment of sunshine until the next cloud would sweep by. SPHP shared not only a chocolate coconut bar, but beef jerky and water with the Carolina Dog, then let her polish off the rest of the Taste of the Wild.
While Lupe crunched away, SPHP munched on the last of the trail mix. Back to the NE, much of the region above the cliffs Lupe had crossed on the way here was in view, also in sunshine. Mount Robert Henderson was in shadow, but overall, the sky seemed to be clearing somewhat.
Resting a little NE of the summit. Mount Robert Henderson (R). Photo looks NE.
Have you decided yet how were going to get down, SPHP? Are we going to explore the valley to the SE? Looks beautiful and easy. No cliffs that way!
If we have to, we will, Loop. I checked the map. We wouldn’t have to ford the North Klondike River in order to get back to the Dempster Highway, but I’m afraid that once we got low enough, we’d wind up in an atrocious wilderness bushwhack.
What else can we do, SPHP?
We’re going to go back the way we came, Loopster, but farther E toward Mount Robert Henderson. I want to see if we can just go around the E end of the cliffs, and still get back to the Charcoal Ridge Trail.
The views were magnificent. The time flew. Too bad about the fiasco with the poles. Lupe should have had hours to roam around exploring up here. However, as things stood, the sun was sinking, and it was a long way back.
45 minutes after arriving, Lupe returned to the summit. The chill SW breeze was still blowing, but it was sunnier now.
Back at the summit. Photo looks SSW.
One more look, and we better go, Loop. If we end up bushwhacking, I don’t want to be doing it in the dark.
Looking S.
It was all so beautiful! The most meaningful view, though, was to the NW where at least two peaks Lupe had been to years ago were in sight, Goldensides Mountain(6,000 ft.) and Angelcomb Peak(6,300 ft.).
That ridge in the distance, is that Surfbird Mountain(5,300 ft.), SPHP?
Maybe, but it’s too far away, Loop. I can’t tell for sure.
In the end, going farther ENE toward Mount Robert Henderson worked. Lupe avoided the cliffs, forced only to make a longer traverse along the steep loose slopes below them before rejoining the Charcoal Ridge Trail.
Contemplating Mount Robert Henderson (R) before heading over the edge and off to the L. Photo looks NE.
The sun was still up, and virtually all of Charcoal Ridge was in view as Lupe headed back to HP5400 where she would turn W and follow it. And then, the strangest thing happened.
Returning to Charcoal Ridge (foreground). Peak 7200 (L), Goldensides Mountain (R). Photo looks WNW.Approaching HP5400 (Center). Goldensides Mountain (L), Blackcap Mountain (R), with AngelcombPeak between them. Photo looks NW.
Without the least warning, or any precedent for it, the Carolina Dog was suddenly seized by a powerful sneezing fit.
What’s wrong, Loopster? Did you sniff something that got stuck in your nose? Come, let me take a look.
Lupe cooperated with an examination.
ACHOOO! Do you see anything in my nose, SPHP?
No. I don’t, but then it’s a long nose, and I can’t see far up it at all, Loop. Does it feel like you’ve got something stuck in there, or do you suddenly have allergies?
ACHOOO! I don’t know, SPHP. What are .. ACHOOO, allergies? ACHOOO, ACHOOO!
An instant onset of a formerly unknown allergy seemed unlikely, but SPHP had no way of seeing, much less removing, whatever had flown up the American Dingo’s nose. No amount of sneezing, no matter how Dingo-shaking seemed capable of dislodging the culprit, either.
Lupe shook her head violently after each mighty ACHOOO to no effect, which surely must have detracted from her enjoyment of the gorgeous trek down Charcoal Ridge. (End, 11:20 PM, 49ºF)
On the true summit of Mount Chester Henderson aka Discovery Ridge, Ogilvie Mountains, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-20-23Lupe’s GPS Track (ascent only)
