Shepherd’s Knoll – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Shepherd’s Knoll, Kluane National Park & Reserve, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-29-23)

Days 37 & 38 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-28-23, early afternoon, Anchorage, Alaska – It had rained all morning, the mountains lost in fog. SPHP put down the iPhone.

Sorry, Loopster. Alaska is over for this Dingo Vacation. High probability of rain for at least the next 4 or 5 days everywhere I look.

No Kenai Peninsula, SPHP?

Afraid not, Loop.

Back to the Yukon then, SPHP?

Yeah. Weather is supposed to be much better there.

Sort of ironic. The smoke of the Arctic apocalypse had driven the Carolina Dog back to the Yukon during her first foray into Alaska this summer. Now rain was driving her out a second and final time.

The rest of the day was a long, scenic drive. A hitchhiker picked up near sundown made it somewhat interesting. A young woman from Slovenia, who had been all over the world, was quite a talker and optimist. She believed she would live forever. Well, why not? At 10:30 PM, SPHP dropped Miss Positive Thinking off in Tok, her destination for the night.

8-29-23, 12:33 PM – As usual, the American Dingo had breezed through Canadian customs late this morning. Happily, conditions actually were better here in the Yukon! Now on a high bank overlooking the silt-laden White River, Horsecamp Hill (4,600 ft.) was in sight.

**Horsecamp Hill** (L) from the **White River**. Photo looks N.

Every year we say we’re going to climb Horsecamp Hill, SPHP, but we never do it. Why not today?

I know we could, Looper, and someday we will, but since we’re back in the Yukon this early in the season, there’s an even greater adventure we can get into position for if we keep going. I’m thinking this is our big chance to visit Observation Mountain (6,824 ft.) and see the Kaskawulsh Glacier in Kluane National Park.

That would be spectacular, SPHP! Been on my list of possibilities forever, too. But do you really think we can do it? What about Bullion Creek?

Might be now or never, Loopster. It’s a multi-day backpacking trip for us, and getting across Bullion Creek can be a problem, but this time of year it might be running low. Worth a shot, isn’t it?

I don’t know, SPHP. The White River seems to have plenty of water in it. Have to admit, I would love to see the Kaskawulsh Glacier, though. It’s huge, isn’t it?

Oh, yeah! Miles and miles long. The Kaskawulsh Glacier originates way up in the remote icefields of the St. Elias Mountains, Loop.

Horsecamp Hill was almost a sure thing, while Observation Mountain was a long shot. Bullion Creek had a bad reputation, although the rest of the two-day trek up the Slims River valley to the Kaskawulsh Glacier shouldn’t be difficult.

Not that convinced Horsecamp Hill isn’t the best choice, SPHP, especially when we’re already here, but if you promise you won’t let me drown in Bullion Creek, I guess I’m willing to try for Observation Mountain.

I’ll do everything possible to make sure you won’t regret it, Looper.

Abandoning Horsecamp Hill once again, the drive S continued.

8-29-23, 1:35 PM – The Donjek was the next big river along the Alaska Highway, and near the site of one of Lupe’s most dangerous adventures ever. SPHP parked the RAV4 at a favorite spot overlooking the river.

C’mon, Loopster! Let’s get out and have a look.

Parked along the **Donjek River**. Photo looks W.

Wow! There’s a lot of water in the river, SPHP. I don’t think we’ve ever seen the Donjek with so much flow before. Look at how wide it is!

Along the **Donjek River**. Photo looks WSW.

True! The Donjek River had always been wide, but on other occasions when Lupe had been here, most of the flow had been limited to a few braided channels among many exposed sand bars. Today, nearly all of the sand bars were submerged. Not a flood, or anything like that, but still quite impressive.

The **mighty Donjek**! **St. Elias Mountains** beyond. Photo looks S.

An awesome sight, but SPHP still didn’t think a thing of it beyond simply appreciating the view. Of course, any stop along the Donjek River these days required a stroll over toward the Alaska Highway bridge for a look at Donjek Crossing Mountain (5,774 ft.).

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NE.

Remember being up there, SPHP? What a view! We could see miles along the Donjek River, both upstream and down, plus some of the snowy giants of the St. Elias Mountains.

Yes, it was incredible up there, alright, Loop. What I’ll always remember most, though, was the lynx that had its eye on you for breakfast!

That was a big kitty! Speaking of food, isn’t it about lunch time, SPHP?

Yup. Part of why we stopped here. Ritz crackers, cheese, and summer sausage. How does that sound, Looper?

Good, apparently. The Carolina Dog was soon back in the RAV4, up on her pink blanket, munching happily away.

After lunch, the drive continued. SPHP stopped at Burwash Creek so Lupe could get out for a few minutes at this possible site for the start of a future adventure, and again near the S end of Kluane Lake, only a mile or two before the turn to the Thechal Dahl visitor centre.

8-29-23, 3:54 PM, Kluane Lake – A big pullout here featured an unusual view. Looking SW toward the Slims River valley, Lupe could see a vast mud flat that had once been part of Kluane Lake. In 2016, meltwaters from the Kaskawulsh Glacier had been rerouted due to glacial retreat from the Slims River feeding Kluane Lake into the Alsek River instead, in a modern day example of stream capture. The loss of all that flow had resulted in a reduction in the level of Kluane Lake, exposing the mud.

**Kluane Lake** near the **mud flats** at the end of the **Slims River valley**. Photo looks SW.

S end of **Kluane Lake**. Photo looks E.

Another view of the **mud flats**. Photo looks SW.

8-29-23, 4:02 PM, SW end of Kluane Lake, Thechal Dahl visitor centre – Rather excited by the notion that Lupe might actually get to Observation Mountain and see the Kaskawulsh Glacier, SPHP approached the visitor centre hoping for additional information on the Bullion Creek crossing.

Locked! What? Already?

A lady said that there was a ranger around the corner of the building. SPHP went to talk to him. The short conversation was not so sweet.

The visitor centre is open 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM. We’re closed now.

With that, the young ranger climbed into his park vehicle and drove off. 15 minutes later, SPHP was chatting with a couple from Switzerland, when another young man appeared, evidently intent upon returning a large, black, clumsy-looking, bear-proof canister.

Excuse me, but by any chance, have you just been to Observation Mountain or the Kaskawulsh Glacier?

He had, but the news was not good. When SPHP asked about the Bullion Creek crossing, the young man lifted his trouser leg to reveal multiple bruises and a deeper wound. Bullion Creek was more than mid-thigh on him – fast, frigid, and rocky. He strongly advised against taking a dog.

Dang! Should have climbed Horsecamp Hill.

8-29-23, 6:35 PM, 72ºF, Slims West trailhead – Lupe trotted along the broad path leading SW up the Slims River valley. A former road, this first part of the trail was back in the trees, away from the open valley.

Isn’t this the same trail that goes to Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.), SPHP?

That’s right, Looper. The Sheep Creek trail branches off this one not too far from here. This is the way to Bullion Creek, Observation Mountain, and the Kaskawulsh Glacier, too. We’re just going to Shepherd’s Knoll, though, this evening. It’s not far. You’ve been there before.

The single track dirt path to Shepherd’s Knoll was on the L, marked by a small white cairn only a few hundred feet beyond the well-signed R turn onto the Sheep Creek trail.

Near the start of the **Shepherd’s Knoll trail**. Photo looks NE.

The Shepherd’s Knoll trail was short and easy. 115 feet of elevation gain total, and even from the parking lot, it was only 0.7 mile to the summit. Lupe enjoyed the stroll, and the scenery was already magnificent.

Climbing **Shepherd’s Knoll** (R). **Sheep Mountain** (L). Photo looks NE.

8-29-23, 7:10 PM, Shepherd’s Knoll – The true summit was a flat, bushy area tucked in among the trees. Snow-capped, and somewhat ominous sounding Vulcan Mountain (9,055 ft.) was in view directly S across the Slims River valley.

**Vulcan Mountain** (Center) from **Shepherd Knoll’s summit**. Photo looks S.

**Vulcan Mountain** (L of Center). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Going a little farther NE, Lupe had a terrific view of the mud flats at the SW end of Kluane Lake. Back in the opposite direction, the enormous Slims River valley disappeared around a curve S.

**Kluane Lake** beyond the **mud flats**. Photo looks NE.

The enormous **Slims River valley**. Photo looks SSW.

Sorry we didn’t climb Horsecamp Hill today, Loopster. Wish we had now.

No worries, SPHP. Shepherd’s Knoll is beautiful, too, even though it isn’t very big, and we knew Observation Mountain and the Kaskawulsh Glacier were a long shot. So, what are we going to do tomorrow? Any plans?

Yeah. Been thinking about it. I still want to check in at the Thechal Dhal visitor centre tomorrow morning. Who knows, maybe they can give us some ideas or encouragement on getting across Bullion Creek? If not, we could still take the Bullion Plateau trail. It doesn’t go to any peaks, but leads to a view of Red Castle Ridge (6,955 ft.).

Oh, I remember seeing Red Castle Ridge from Sheep Mountain, SPHP. That might be fun!

Little ole Shepherd’s Knoll was a terrific vantage point on this beautiful evening. Lupe lingered a while, enjoying this taste of what might be in store tomorrow before heading back to the RAV4.

**Vulcan Mountain** (R) beyond what remains of the **Slims River**. Photo looks S.

8-29-23, 8:38 PM – The lovely evening ended at the S end of Kluane Lake, where the were-puppy made a sudden attack on SPHP.

Ow! Sheesh! Stop that! We really should have climbed Horsecamp Hill. Guess we better do something far more ambitious than Shepherd’s Knoll tomorrow. You’ve got way too much energy, Loopster!

Along the shore of the big lake, the were-puppy merely grinned.

The **were-puppy** at **Kluane Lake**, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-29-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Kluane National Park & Reserve

Kluane National Park & Reserve Trails & Routes Map

Donjek Crossing Mountain, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-9-19)

Sheep Mountain, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-13-17)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Kluane Lake & Shepherd’s Knoll in the Slims River Valley, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-8-16)

Day 10 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

The sky was overcast, but it wasn’t raining. What time was it? Good grief! Almost 9:30 AM already! SPHP came to. Lupe was looking way perkier than SPHP. Her successful climb up King’s Throne yesterday only seemed to have enlivened her. SPHP on the other hand … well, it didn’t matter, today needed to be a rest day, anyway.

Lupe and SPHP got water and pitched garbage at the campground. SPHP straightened up the G6. There were a few squirrels around, so Lupe was happy. When all was back in order again, Lupe and SPHP drove down to see Kathleen Lake. A crew was taking down big tents that had been set up for some youth group over the weekend. The tents had been flapping noisily in the wind much of the night.

King’s Throne Peak (6,529 ft.) was across the bay. SPHP had been hoping for a clear, bright shot of Lupe at shining blue Kathleen Lake with mighty King’s Throne illuminated by morning sun in the background, but it wasn’t going to happen. The top of the mountain was scraping clouds. There wasn’t a ray of sunshine anywhere. Kathleen Lake looked green, instead of the brilliant blue it had appeared only yesterday.

Lupe at Kathleen Lake with King's Throne Peak in the background. Lupe had been to the summit yesterday! Photo looks SW. — Lupe at Kathleen Lake with King’s Throne Peak in the background. Lupe had been to the summit yesterday! Photo looks SW.

There wasn’t a real plan for the day. Lupe and SPHP drove to Haines Junction. SPHP managed to get a shower at a motel. Much better! The skies were clearing. Maybe it was time to head N and see what Lupe’s options were? On the way N, Lupe went by Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.).

Mount Decoeli (R) from the Alaska Highway NW of Haines Junction. Photo looks WNW.

SPHP had hopes that Lupe would be able to climb Decoeli, but not today. It was too much for today, right after King’s Throne. Maybe it wasn’t a bad idea to check out the trailhead, though? SPHP found the trailhead on a hill more than 10 miles N of Haines Junction. The trailhead was really just a big paved pullout on the W side of the Alaska Highway. There was no sign, no information, nothing except free parking.

Mount Decoeli from the Alaska Highway, not far from the long paved pullout that serves as a trailhead. Photo looks W.

It seemed like a good idea to stop by the Tachal Dhal visitor center for information. SPHP knew the visitor center was located near the S end of Kluane Lake, a huge lake E of the Saint Elias range. Lupe and SPHP continued N on the Alaska Highway. Soon the lake could be seen ahead, flanked by mountains to the W.

Lupe near the Alaska Highway. Kluane Lake is in view! Photo looks NNW.

Kluane Lake was huge and gorgeous! Before even going to the visitor center, Lupe and SPHP stopped at a large pullout along the shore at the S end of the lake.

Lupe in Kluane Lake. She reported that the water was clear, cold, and good to drink. The weather, breezy and bright. Photo looks N.

Kluane Lake made a huge impression. To the N, the cold, blue waters stretched to the horizon like a Yukon sea. E of the lake, desolate unknown peaks marched N toward the Arctic until they vanished from view. NW across the lake was scenic Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.), a peak SPHP hoped Lupe might be able to climb. To the W was the wide, flat Slims River valley. Strange clouds of dust blew from the valley toward Kluane Lake.

Blowing dust was unexpected and puzzling. Was the Alaska Highway gravel over there? SPHP figured the dust must be coming from traffic on the Alaska Highway or road construction. Later, it became evident the dust was being blown up by winds sweeping over dried out mud flats along the Slims River.

Clouds of dust were rising up from the Slims River valley, close to where the Tachal Dhal visitor center is located. At first, SPHP thought traffic or road construction was the cause. It turned out to be dust blown from dried out mud flats along the Slims River. Photo looks W.

After Lupe had a chance to wade in Kluane Lake and have a refreshing drink of Yukon water, Lupe and SPHP went on to the Tachal Dahl visitor center. The visitor center was located in a small building in the Slims River Valley W of both Kluane Lake and the Alaska Highway. SPHP went in to inquire about trails in the area.

There was bad news for Lupe about the trail to Sheep Mountain. It was temporarily closed due to recent grizzly bear activity. SPHP chatted with a ranger about a much longer trail up the Slims River Valley to the Kaskawulsh Glacier. The best glacier viewpoint was from Observation Mountain (6,824 ft.), but getting there would involve a 3 day/2 night backpacking trip and major stream fords.

As a nice day hike, the ranger suggested the Bullion Plateau trail. The Bullion Plateau sounded interesting, but it was already afternoon and the trail was too long to consider today. How about something short and easy? Right away, the ranger suggested Shepherd’s Knoll, a hill not too far away up the Slims River valley. A very short trail goes to the top of Shepherd’s Knoll where there are views both up the valley and back toward Kluane Lake. It sounded perfect!

A little N on the Alaska Highway from the turn to the Tachal Dhal visitor center, another gravel road leaves the highway. This road goes 2.6 km up the Slims River valley to the Tachal Dahl trailhead. Lupe left for Shepherd’s Knoll from here. Lupe and SPHP started out on the main trail, which ultimately goes to the Kaskawulsh Glacier. The trail began as an old roadbed going through a forest.

It didn’t take Lupe long, maybe 15 minutes, to reach an intersection with the Sheep Creek trail. A few hundred feet farther along, on the valley side of the main trail, Lupe found the side trail to Shepherd’s Knoll.

Lupe near the start of the Shepherd's Knoll trail. Photo looks SE. — Lupe near the start of the Shepherd’s Knoll trail. Photo looks SE.

The Shepherd’s Knoll trail wasn’t long at all. It climbed partway up a small hill and vanished. Lupe continued on higher up the hill, checking out the views from different vantage points along her way.

Lupe climbing Shepherd's Knoll. The trail soon vanished, but Lupe continued up, checking out the views from various vantage points along the way. Photo looks NE. — Lupe climbing Shepherd’s Knoll. The trail soon vanished, but Lupe continued up, checking out the views from various vantage points along the way. Photo looks NE.

For as little effort as it took for Lupe to get here, the views from Shepherd’s Knoll were impressive.

Dust blows down the Slims River valley toward Kluane Lake. Photo looks E.

Looking S across the Slims River valley from Shepherd’s Knoll.

A closer look at the snow-capped mountain across the valley using the telephoto lens.

The beautiful Slims River valley. Photo looks SSW.

SPHP believes the high hill in the distance is part of the Bullion Plateau. Photo looks WNW.

The Bullion Plateau? It seemed to be in the right direction. Photo looks WNW.

A wider view of the Bullion Plateau vicinity.

Even though getting to Shepherd’s Knoll hadn’t taken Lupe very far up the Slims River valley, it was certainly a worthwhile easy trek. Lupe would have liked to do much more exploring in the Slims River area, but this was a rest day, and it was starting to get late. Lupe and SPHP returned to the Tachal Dahl trailhead.

No one had been at the trailhead before, but now there were nearly a dozen people here. They had just returned from an overnight backpacking trip to the Kaskawulsh Glacier. A campground near the glacier was about as far as most of them had made it. Only one person had succeeded in reaching the top of Observation Mountain. The trip was more strenuous than they’d anticipated.

Lupe and SPHP went back to Kluane Lake, but this time a bit farther N along the W side of the lake. A forested hill projected partway into the lake from mud flats deposited by the Slims River. Silt is gradually filling in this end of the lake.

Over time, silt and mud deposited by the Slims River will completely surround the forested hill seen here by filling in adjacent portions of Kluane Lake. Photo looks ESE.

Evening was coming. The views from the pullout along the S shore of Kluane Lake earlier in the day had been so beautiful that Lupe and SPHP returned to enjoy the evening there.

Lupe spent a few happy hours exploring the shore of Kluane Lake, while SPHP watched the ancient dust blow, and the waves roll in.