Day 39 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
9:08 AM, 52ºF – Cloudy and calm this morning. As Lupe passed several colorful tents during her morning constitutional along Kluane Lake, the small waves rippling into shore were smooth.
Are we still going to drop by the Thechal Dahl visitor centre, SPHP?
Yes. I know it’s a long shot, Loopster, but I want to see what the rangers can tell us about crossing Bullion Creek. If they’ve got any suggestions, we still might be able to get to Observation Mountain (6,824 ft.) and see the Kaskawulsh Glacier.
10:00 AM, Thechal Dahl visitor centre – Lupe was at the visitor centre when it opened, but so was everyone else, including an entire bus full of high school students. The park rangers were swamped the moment they unlocked the door. After hanging around for a while, the crowd still hadn’t thinned out.
We’re getting nowhere fast here, Loopster. Maybe we should just explore the Bullion Plateau trail today? We can still come back to inquire about the Bullion Creek crossing tomorrow.
Fine with me, SPHP! I’m not all that eager to drown in Bullion Creek, anyway.
11:33 AM, 60ºF, Slims West trailhead – Sadly off to such a late start that the parking lot was already nearly full when SPHP snuck the RAV4 into one of the last available spots. Lupe was raring to go, barking excitedly as SPHP completed last minute preparations. As soon as everything was ready, the Carolina Dog was off, following the same old road she’d been on yesterday evening.
A few hundred feet after passing the Sheep Creek trail on the R, a cairn of white stones appeared on the L, marking the start of the Shepherd’s Knoll trail roughly 0.5 mile from the trailhead.
This is as far as we’ve ever been on the Slims West trail, Looper. Ready for a new adventure?
Always, SPHP!
Since Lupe was heading up the Slims River valley, SPHP was surprised when the trail began a steady, gradual descent. After losing 100 feet of elevation, it flattened out again, eventually bending around to the R (W). Lupe reached a broad, rocky wash at the mouth of a valley bordered by vertical, yellow bluffs. A clear, blue-gray stream flowed through it all.
This must be Sheep Creek, Loop.
Sheep Creek was both a lovely stream, and a little too big to rock hop. A little too deep to wade through it, too, without getting sopping wet boots and socks. SPHP sat down and removed them, then forded the stream. Apparently, Lupe wasn’t all that eager to get wet paws, either. She laid down near the bluffs, instead of following SPHP across.
Looper! Come on! What’s gotten into you? I said Sheep Creek, not Bullion Creek! Nothing to this one.
Took a few minutes, but the American Dingo finally got the message, fording the stream without the least difficulty.
You were right, SPHP. Nothing to it!
Well, of course. You couldn’t see that yourself, Loopster?
Can’t be too careful when dangerous streams like Bullion Creek are around, SPHP.
After crossing the rest of Sheep Creek’s rocky floodplain, the Slims West trail continued SW through tall bushes, slowly losing elevation again. Lupe caught up to a couple carrying heavy backpacks. They appeared to be equipped for at least a 3 or 4 day journey, yet told SPHP they were only going to spend a single night out before returning to the trailhead.
Marching along together for a while, SPHP mentioned Bullion Creek, and the young man Lupe met yesterday, who had been battered and bruised while crossing it. This couple was already aware of the Bullion Creek challenge. Rangers had advised them not to attempt a crossing where the Slims West trail reaches it, but to explore farther downstream where there were safer spots.
Before long, a massive wooden post appeared along the L side of the trail. “Plateau” and an arrow pointing R were carved into a huge knot. Dead ahead, the trail forked, with a sign sitting toward the R. This was where the Bullion Plateau trail branched off.
Parting ways with the couple here, SPHP thanked them for the tip on Bullion Creek, and wished them a safe and fun journey.
Did you hear what they said, Loopster? Maybe we can cross Bullion Creek, if we choose the right spot!
You didn’t bring the tiny house, SPHP. We’ll have to go back and get it.
Oh, I don’t mean now, Loop. We’ve already committed to the Bullion Plateau trail. Maybe tomorrow we can go see the Kaskawulsh Glacier?
12:49 PM – The Bullion Plateau trail started out as a flat, old jeep route heading NW through the tall bushes. Early on, a silvery mountain with sort of a flat top was visible ahead. Was that mountaintop the Bullion Plateau? SPHP didn’t really know.
The flat stretch soon ended. Upon reaching a spruce forest, the old jeep route began switchbacking up a slope at a moderate rate of climb, still including some relatively flat sections. Above the first stretch of forest, an open slope provided an early view of the Slims River valley.
Entering another stretch of forest, the jeep trail continued switchbacking higher. Looking back to the ENE near one of the turns, the Carolina Dog could see the S end of Kluane Lake.
The trail gradually steepened. Flat sections became rare, then vanished entirely. SPHP kept having to pause now and then to gasp for air. The forest eventually began thinning out. Lupe came to another region of tall bushes which were just beginning to show fall colors.
After a rather long, steep climb NW, Lupe reached another flat spot where she passed a 6.5 km marker, the only sign she’d seen since the start of the Bullion Plateau trail. A mountain that looked easy to climb was off to the W. However, the landscape was still a dense thicket of bushes, so that notion was premature, at best.
This flat area quickly led to another steep stretch. Thirsty after a tiring march higher, SPHP stopped once the rate of climb began to diminish, sitting down briefly for a water break. Ahead, the road continued NW toward some hills.
Looking back to the S, Lupe now had a tremendous view of the Slims River valley. Although miles away, below a skinny glacier on a steep mountainside, the toe of the gigantic Kaskawulsh Glacier was in sight!
The jeep trail headed N for a pass between the hills. Even the bushes were thinning out. Exploring off trail was now a possibility. Reaching the pass, Lupe went by a hill on the R she could have climbed without much trouble. More curious as to what was ahead, the American Dingo stuck with the road, which had once again leveled out.
This level stretch soon brought Lupe to a stand of large bushes arching over the road. Shortly after passing through this Arc de Bushes, a 9.3 km marker appeared on the L.
This 9.3 km marker is an important point, Loopster. According to the sign back at the start, we’ve reached the sub-alpine here, and face a choice.
What are the options, SPHP?
We can either follow the Bullion Plateau trail to its end at 12 km, or leave the trail here and go exploring.
Exploring is always fun, SPHP. Any prominent peaks nearby to climb?
Since we hadn’t really anticipated doing the Bullion Plateau trail, I don’t have any maps of the area, Loop. Plenty of mountains around, but I’m not so sure there are any notable peaks we can easily reach from here in the time we’ve got available. Don’t know what we’ll find wandering about.
No maps? Maybe we should just stick with the trail then, SPHP. It will take us to a view of Red Castle Ridge (6,955 ft.), right?
Yup. Should have big views of the Sheep Creek valley along the way, too.
Going off-trail in this open territory did sound like fun. Map or no map, it wouldn’t have been unusual for the American Dingo, but exploring to the end of the Bullion Plateau trail made a certain amount of sense, too. With no other definite objective in mind, not getting to the end of the trail seemed sort of silly.
Let’s have a peek at what the trail has in store from here, SPHP. Then we can decide.
From the 9.3 km sign, the jeep trail curved off to the R (NE). Mount Wallace (7,700 ft.) and Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.) were both in sight now in that general direction.
Heading over to the edge where the trail disappeared, what came next was surprising. Covered with small bushes, the old jeep route started downhill, traversing a steep slope with a fabulous view of the Sheep Creek valley. Most surprising of all, several stones propped up a sign right on the road saying “Caution!, Rock Slides, Attention!”.
This does look interesting, SPHP. Let’s try it!
Fine with me, Loopster. Onward! Puppy, ho!
Sticking with the Bullion Plateau trail, it gradually descended the steep upper W slopes of the super deep Sheep Creek valley. As Lupe kept on, the old jeep road essentially vanished, becoming a single track path so narrow that it seemed clear the road had never gone this far.
After losing 200 feet of elevation, the trail leveled out, bouncing up and down from then on. Views of the Sheep Creek valley and the mountains on the other side were tremendous the entire way. To SPHP’s surprise, the trail widened out again as if a road really had been here at one time.
The Carolina Dog came to a region where a section of the mountain had slumped 80 feet. Pink ribbons affixed to the bushes marked the route. Beyond the slump, Lupe passed damp spots, and even a tiny stream. As she kept going, tall bushes sometimes lined one or both sides of the trail. They hid the views, but also provided a sense of privacy and security.
As the Bullion Plateau trail continued NNW, the slopes it traversed were no longer as steep. Lupe trotted easily along long flat stretches, making excellent progress. A sense grew that she must be getting close to the end, but the trail went on and on.
After angling NW, Red Castle Ridge (6,955 ft.) began coming into view. The end couldn’t be much farther.
4:22 PM, 55ºF – Leaving a stretch of tall bushes, a gently sloping field was visible ahead. The trail, which by now was growing faint, led down to it. When Lupe got there, she saw a small sign at the top of a metal pole near the field’s lower ENE end.
This must be it, SPHP. The official end of the Bullion Plateau trail!
Congratulations on getting this far, Loopster! It doesn’t appear that very many do. Is this actually the end, though? The trail keeps going.
So it did. Following the trail another 100 feet beyond the 12 km marker, it simply vanished among the bushes.
This spur doesn’t go anywhere, SPHP. The 12 km marker really is the end.
Guess you’re right, Loop. That’s what the sign at the start said, too. I was just curious. Let’s head over to the upper end of this field where the best view of Red Castle Ridge is. We can take a break there.
Roaming 0.25 km W through the grassy field, the Carolina Dog reached the edge of a drainage. Red Castle Ridge (6,955 ft.) was directly ahead. Lupe had seen its distinctive, pink, orange, and gray, eroded crest before when she’d climbed Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.) years ago. Back then, Lupe had been looking down on Red Castle Ridge. From here, it was hundreds of feet higher, but much closer.
We haven’t reached the top of any mountain, but the Bullion Plateau trail has been a pretty good climb, SPHP. I’m thinking that reaching this view of Red Castle Ridge ought to merit a chocolate coconut bar.
Sounds reasonable to me, Loop. Congratulations again on getting this far!
SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, then split the chocolate coconut bar reward and several eagerly accepted pieces of beef jerky with the American Dingo. There was all kinds of room to relax, so after having some Taste of the Wild and water, too, Lupe made herself comfortable.
While Lupe napped, SPHP sat munching on trail mix. The end of the Bullion Plateau trail felt like a hidden hideout, a secret, seldom-visited place. Although Red Castle Ridge was rugged, many of the surrounding mountains and high ridges weren’t as formidable. A Carolina Dog could do a lot of exploring up here.
To the NW, territory on both sides of the drainage E of Red Castle Ridge looked intriguing. Miles away, 2 high peaks were visible at the far end.
A much closer option was directly S, where a long slope led up to what? The plateau of Bullion Plateau? Lupe hadn’t come to any plateau despite the trail’s name. Tempting to see what was up there!
A good guess, but only a guess. With a map, or a little research done ahead of time, SPHP would have known that Lupe could have easily made a loop back to the 9.3 km marker by exploring S up that slope. It really was the way to the plateau of the Bullion Plateau region.
Unfortunately, the sky was cloudy, a little dark and uncertain, when the decision had to be made. At the visitor centre this morning, SPHP had heard talk of rain starting around 6:00 PM. Certainly seemed possible.
5:16 PM – For the last time, Lupe sat at the viewpoint with Red Castle Ridge in all its glory on display beyond her.
Beautiful, Loop! Thank you. Hate to say it, but it’s that time. Onward! Puppy, ho!
A moment later, Lupe was on her way.
The return was gorgeous! Heading back, Lupe was facing the big views. Snowfields near Vulcan Mountain (9,055 ft.) on the far side of the Slims River valley caught the eye. The summit was lost in the clouds, but most of the rugged peaks nearby were on display.
The territory the trail passed through even seemed more dramatic on the way back. From some sections, Lupe enjoyed much better views of the gray bluffs along the upper rim of the Sheep Creek valley.
Once back to the 9.3 km marker, it was downhill or flat nearly the entire rest of the way. Lupe enjoyed spectacular views of the Slims River valley and the mountains along it, from the SW end of Kluane Lake clear to the toe of the Kaskawulsh Glacier.
Never did rain. Although the sky remained mostly cloudy, patches of blue existed, too. The slanting rays of the evening sun highlighted the ruggedness of the mountains.
The fun downhill march back into the Slims River valley went fast.
8:14 PM – Lupe had seen no one at all along the Bullion Plateau trail. At this hour, approaching Sheep Creek again, she hadn’t seen anyone along the Slims West trail, either.
This time, the American Dingo didn’t hesitate, fording Sheep Creek right along with SPHP.
8:55 PM, Slims West trailhead – Only 4 vehicles were left at the trailhead that had been full to overflowing this morning, when Lupe arrived back at the RAV4 again.
What a day, Loopster! Hungry?
Not the Kaskawulsh Glacier and Observation Mountain (6,824 ft.), SPHP, but the Bullion Plateau trail was awesome! Had it all to ourselves, too. And yes, I’m famished!
My only regret is that we didn’t get an earlier start, Loop. We could have done a lot more exploring up there. Still fun, though! And you did make it to the end of the Bullion Plateau trail.
And to that splendid close up view of Red Castle Ridge, SPHP!
Sigh. Cheese and Ritz crackers for dinner again. Oh, well. It would do, and then it would be time for Dingo Dreamland.
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track & Ascent Statistics
Kluane National Park & Reserve
Kluane National Park & Reserve Trails & Routes Map
Sheep Mountain, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-13-17)
Decoeli, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-9-16)
Kings Throne, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-7-16)
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.