Kluane National Park – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Sheep Mountain, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-13-17)

Day 14 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Yesterday evening, after a couple of peakbagging adventures on overcast days, Lupe and SPHP had driven N out of Haines, Alaska back into Yukon Territory looking for sunnier skies. By nightfall Loop had made it as far as Dezadeash Lake. Although there were patches of blue sky this morning, clouds still prevailed. Before continuing N, the Carolina Dog spent a few minutes stretching and sniffing around.

Morning began with a view of **Dezadeash Lake**. Photo looks NNE.

A mountain on the E side of **Dezadeash Lake** wears a cap of cloud like a powdered white wig. All the rage only a quarter of a millennia ago, but what’s that to a mountain? Though clouds were prevalent this morning, encouraging patches of blue sky were also present. Photo looks ESE.

**Dezadeash Lake** is quite large, but shallow. Pink wildflowers add a splash of color to the scene. Photo looks NE.

After a short morning romp, Lupe and SPHP proceeded N on Haines Highway No. 7 to the Alaska Highway at Haines Junction. Although Dezadeash Lake was big, Lupe’s next stop farther N along the Alaska Highway was at a much larger lake, beautiful Kluane Lake E of Kluane National Park & Reserve.

Lupe arrives at the S end of beautiful, huge **Kluane Lake**. Only the far SW end of the lake is in view here. Photo looks W.

Lupe had been to Kluane Lake on her 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska, too. A big gravel parking lot at the S end of Kluane Lake right off the Alaska Highway was a favorite spot. Lupe could see her next peakbagging goal, Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.), right across the bay.

**Sheep Mountain** from the S end of **Kluane Lake**. The high point straight up from Lupe’s head is **Mount Wallace (7,700 ft.)** (R). The summit of **Sheep Mountain** is the next highest point seen a little to the L of Lupe. Photo looks NW.

The Sheep Creek trail providing access to Sheep Mountain was closed due to grizzly bear activity, when Lupe had been here in 2016. SPHP stopped by the Tachal Dahl visitor center to check on the status today. The American Dingo was in luck! Not only was the Sheep Creek trail open, but park personnel were recommending it.

SPHP returned to the G6 with the good news that Loopster had a green light on Sheep Mountain. The Slims West trailhead was nearby, only a short drive W from the Alaska Highway along the base of the mountain. Soon Loop and SPHP were leaving the trailhead parking area heading SW on the Slims River West trail. (10:45 AM, 60°F)

**Sheep Mountain** from the Slims River West trailhead. The trailhead is a few minutes drive W off the Alaska Highway on a good gravel road. Photo looks N.

The Slims River West trail begins as an easy stroll along an abandoned roadbed. In 10 minutes, Lupe reached a turn NW onto the Sheep Creek trail. A map was posted nearby, in addition to a plaque commemorating a hiker killed by a grizzly in July, 1996.

The Sheep Creek trail is officially only 5 km long, but a perfectly good unofficial route continues on up to the Sheep Mountain ridgeline.

The Sheep Creek trail headed NW into a forest. The trail was very wide and well worn. Lupe was soon climbing steadily. Although clouds were floating this way out of the SW, the drive N had been successful in finding sunshine at Kluane Lake. Uphill exertion made it feel plenty warm out. Squirrels provided occasional excitement and reason for happy Dingo barkfests.

A fine powdery dust covered the whole Sheep Creek trail. Puffs of dust poofed up with each pawstep, as though Looper were traveling through a desert. The trail might be named after Sheep Creek, but there was absolutely no water. Loop seldom saw or even heard Sheep Creek, which was soon hundreds of feet lower in a canyon to the SW. Lupe would have been better off as an Arabian Dingo, storing water in a hump on her back. Fortunately, as long as SPHP was around packing in a water supply, Lupe wouldn’t have to change her nationality.

The Sheep Creek trail was an uphill trudge, devoid of views until Lupe was getting close to the 2 km mark. She could now see SSW up the Slims River valley. And oh yeah, there was Sheep Creek, way the heck down there!

After a dusty 2 km climb on the Sheep Creek trail, Lupe finally comes to a point where she has a view of the **Slim River valley**. Photo looks SSW.

About the first and only good look at the not terribly convenient **Sheep Creek** (Center) from the Sheep Creek trail. **Sheep Creek** flows into the much larger **Slims River** seen in the broader valley below. Photo looks S.

The trail seldom stopped climbing, though some stretches were steeper than others, as Lupe journeyed onward. She was still in forest most of the time, but it was starting to thin out. Viewpoints were becoming more frequent. Of course, the higher the Carolina Dog went, the better the views were getting.

Looking SSW up the **Slims River valley** from a bit higher up.

Looking up the **Sheep Creek valley**. A different trail goes up the big ridge on the other side of the valley to the **Bullion Plateau**. Lupe hasn’t ever done any exploring over there yet. Photo looks NW.

Lupe passed signs marking the 2 km and 3.8 km points along the trail. Beyond the 3.8 km marker, the Sheep Creek trail narrowed down to a good single track. Trees became scarce. The mountainside was now covered in bushes.

The last trail marker came at the 5 km point. This was the official end of the Sheep Creek trail. From here, Lupe could see all the way S up the Slims River valley to the toe of the Kaskawulsh Glacier. The glacier was so far away, it was difficult to be certain Lupe was really seeing it. Only by using the telephoto lens on the camera was it possible to tell for sure. Binoculars would have been a tremendous help.

Looper at the 5 km marker, the official end of the Sheep Creek trail. Photo looks NW toward the **Bullion Plateau** area.

From the official end of the Sheep Creek trail, Lupe could see the toe of the mighty **Kaskawulsh Glacier** (L). Photo looks S up the **Slims River valley** with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Looking NNE over the **Fortyeight Pup Creek** drainage (coming down from the R).

Although Lupe had reached the official end of the Sheep Creek trail, she had a lot farther to go, if she wanted to climb Sheep Mountain. The long NW ridge coming down from the SW end of the mountain was in view from here. This ridge is on the S side of the Fortyeight Pup Creek drainage. Lupe would have to climb it.

The ridge on the L leads up to the SW end of **Sheep Mountain**. Climbing it was Lupe’s next task. Photo looks E.

From the end of the Sheep Creek trail, an unmaintained “Ridge” trail continues E around the N side of a hill covered with bushes. As Lupe rounded the hill, she could see that this trail really was going to take her to the start of the ridge she needed to climb.

Lupe on the Ridge trail going around the N side of a brushy hill. Ahead on the R is the start of the long ridge she needs to climb. The **Fortyeight Pup Creek** drainage is on the L. The high point in the distance is the summit of **Sheep Mountain**. Photo looks ENE.

The climb up the NW ridge leading to the SW end of Sheep Mountain was long, but not difficult. The steepest part was at the beginning. The Ridge trail helped make the ascent easier, and wasn’t hard to follow. It was just a matter of having sufficient heart, leg and lung power to keep going. As usual, Lupe had plenty of all three, while SPHP lagged behind.

Despite SPHP’s frequent stops to catch breath, Lupe was making good progress up the ridge. She soon had a beautiful view of Red Castle Ridge back toward the Bullion Plateau area. Loop could also see the summit of Sheep Mountain beyond the end of the Fortyeight Pup Creek drainage, though SPHP didn’t recognize as such yet.

**Red Castle Ridge** in the **Bullion Plateau** area as seen on the way up the Ridge trail to the SW end of **Sheep Mountain**. Photo looks NW.

Going up the NW ridge, Lupe was quickly above even bush line. Only low alpine plants remained. The Carolina Dog would have to follow the Ridge trail 2.5 km from the end of the Sheep Creek trail to reach the first high point at the SW end of Sheep Mountain’s main ridge. Photo looks SE.

Looking up the **Fortyeight Pup Creek** drainage. SPHP didn’t recognize it yet, but the summit of **Sheep Mountain** is at Center. The more distant high point on the L is **High Point 6378** (1,944 m), also part of the Sheep Mountain main ridge, but not quite as high. Photo looks E.

Lupe loved being in the alpine on the big open ridge! None of it was the least bit scary. No large rock formations, boulders, scree or talus fields appeared. No cliffs or steep drop offs existed. The ridge was always plenty wide. The only mildly discouraging factor was a series of false summits, but they couldn’t go on forever.

Clouds sailed overhead out of the SW. Sometimes it was windy; most of the time it wasn’t. From the end of the Sheep Creek trail up to the first viewpoint from the SW end of Sheep Mountain’s main ridge, the Ridge trail was 2.5 km long. Of course, Loop had amazing views all the way up the barren ridge, too.

Lupe loved being up on the big, smooth alpine ridge. Nothing scary, but the wind blew sometimes, and she came to a series of false summits. Photo looks ESE.

As Lupe climbed, the view of **Red Castle Ridge** kept improving. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Looking up the **Slims River valley**. The weather was looking more iffy as the day wore on. Clouds were starting to take over. Photo looks S.

Same view with a little more help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks S.

Beyond the last of the false summits, the already broad ridge widened out even more. Only very short sparse vegetation existed up here. The Ridge trail all but disappeared, but there was never any question on which way to go.

End of the climb ahead! Photo looks ESE.

Finally the trek up the long ridge was over. Lupe reached the high point at the far SW end of Sheep Mountain. Here there was need for a little caution and presence of mind. Tremendous cliffs existed all along the SE edge of the mountain.

The views were incredible! For the first time, Lupe could see the entire length of the Slim River valley all the way from mountains beyond the toe of the Kaskawulsh glacier clear down to the Alaska Highway and Kluane Lake.

At the high point at the far SW end of Sheep Mountain’s long main ridge, Lupe stands a few feet from SE facing cliffs with a view all the way up the **Slims River valley** to the toe of the **Kaskawulsh Glacier** and beyond. Photo looks S.

Lupe has her first view of beautiful **Kluane Lake** from up on **Sheep Mountain**. Photo looks E.

Looking down on the mouth of the **Slims River** where it empties into **Kluane Lake**. Photo looks SE.

The Alaska Highway sweeps around the SW end of **Kluane Lake** crossing the **Slims River delta**, Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe could now see much of **upper Sheep Creek valley** with **Red Castle Ridge** beyond it. Photo looks NW.

Another look at **Red Castle Ridge** with more help from the telephoto lens. **Upper Sheep Creek valley** is in the foreground. Photo looks NW.

Stupendous snow-capped peaks were off to the WSW. SPHP’s maps showed no names for them.

Lupe and SPHP were taking a break on the high point at the SW end of Sheep Mountain, when suddenly there were voices. A couple appeared coming up the Ridge trail. They turned out to be from Whitehorse, and had a rangefinder with them. They quickly spotted several herds of Dahl sheep grazing on a mountainside beyond the Fortyeight Pup Creek drainage. The sheep were so far away, Lupe hadn’t even noticed them.

SPHP chatted with the couple from Whitehorse. Loopster relaxed and enjoyed being petted. This viewpoint was as far as the couple intended to go. They had no interest in continuing on to the true summit. By the time they started back down, more than 30 minutes had shot by.

Lupe had better get going! The true summit was still some distance away. Although it wasn’t much higher than where Loop was now, she would have to lose then regain a fair amount of elevation to get there.

*“Lupe had better get going?” Sheesh, SPHP, you’re the one chit-chatting the day away up here! Come on!* The true summit of **Sheep Mountain** is at the L (N) end of the short ridge seen ahead on the L. Photo looks NE.

Looking down the SE face of **Sheep Mountain** from the SW high point before departing for the true summit. The Tachal Dahl visitor center parking lot is seen close to the near curve of the Alaska Highway. Photo looks ESE.

Looper sets off for Sheep Mountain’s true summit from the SW high point. She had to lose a fair amount of elevation right away. The views of **Kluane Lake** along the entire main ridge were spectacular!

A slightly different perspective on the **Slims River valley**. Photo looks S.

The first elevation drop leaving the high point at the SW end of Sheep Mountain was by far the biggest. Lupe subsequently came to a number of other high points and smaller drops along the way, too. However, the trek along Sheep Mountain’s main ridgeline was a dream, such a treat! The views of Kluane Lake were simply stupendous!

Lupe at an impressive little high point along Sheep Mountain’s main ridge after the initial big elevation drop. Photo looks E.

*It’s a precipitous drop, SPHP. If you want to come up here and get any closer to the edge for a photo, be my guest!*

Still a ways to go. The true summit is in sight way beyond Lupe. Photo looks NE.

As Lupe proceeded NE along the ridgeline, she now began noticing herds of Dahl sheep. That really perked the Carolina Dog up. She was keenly interested in sheep! The Dahl sheep were grazing in alpine meadows on both sides of Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.), but all were far, far below Looper’s lofty position up on the main ridge. None of the sheep had the slightest idea that such a ferocious predator as an American Dingo was eyeing them greedily from above. Eh, they were so far away, they had no cause for alarm.

Lupe finally reached the highest ridge toward the NE end of Sheep Mountain where the true summit is located. More than 50 minutes had gone by since she’d left the SW high point. The true summit was now an easy stroll to the N. Loopster could already see more of Kluane Lake, and also had a great view of High Point 6378 (1944 m on the topo map).

Lupe reaches the high ridge where the true summit of **Sheep Mountain** is located. She could now see **High Point 6378** (1944 m) (Center) and more of **Kluane Lake**. Photo looks NE.

**Sheep Mountain** is fun! Such tremendous views! And Dahl sheep! Don’t forget the fascinating Dahl sheep! Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.)** is seen at Center in the distance. Unfortunately, the summit is hidden by clouds. **Decoeli** is another fantastic peak in **Kluane National Park**! Lupe climbed **Decoeli** in 2016. Photo looks SE.

The true summit of Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.) was at the N end of the summit ridge. Lupe trotted on over to claim her peakbagging success! For a mountain with over 4,000 feet of elevation gain (including some of the extra elevation regained traipsing along the main ridgeline) Sheep Mountain had been easy, super fun, and a visual treasure.

Lupe at the true summit of **Sheep Mountain**. Slightly lower **High Point 6378** (1944 m) is dead ahead with **Kluane Lake** beyond. Photo looks NE.

*Oh, there’s always something bigger and better, isn’t there?* Lupe at the true summit of **Sheep Mountain** with **Mount Wallace (7,700 ft.)** soaring higher on the L. Photo looks N.

*And there you have it! This is Lupe, the peakbagging American Dingo, reporting from high atop fabulous **Sheep Mountain** in **Kluane National Park & Reserve** in SW **Yukon Territory**!* Photo looks N.

**Mount Wallace** (L) from the true summit of **Sheep Mountain**. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe spent half an hour at the top of Sheep Mountain. SPHP passed the time gazing upon the glorious 360° views, while Loop concentrated on monitoring the tiny white specks far below that were herds of Dahl sheep. Sheep Mountain had something for everyone!

Looking back along Sheep Mountain’s long main ridge. The high point at the far SW end that Lupe had come from is on the R. Photo looks SSW.

Looking down the **Fortyeight Pup Creek** drainage. The S end of **Red Castle Ridge** is on the R. Photo looks W.

Zoomed in on a distant mighty snow and ice clad peak. Photo looks W.

Looking E. The S end of **Kluane Lake** is more than 3,800 feet below. There’s actually a much steeper, shorter, alternate route up **Sheep Mountain** from this direction than the way Lupe took.

A big glacier is seen on the R. It is at the upper end of a large side valley on the far side of the Slims River valley. Somewhere in the clouds to the L of the glacier is **Vulcan Mountain**. Photo looks S with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Wallace (7,700 ft.)** and **Kluane Lake**. Photo looks N.

Dahl Sheep, objects of endless fascination for Lupe! None of the sheep were ever aware Loop was even around, but they provided her a great deal of entertainment. Photo looks down with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Loopster’s ear on the R points straight up at distant **Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.)**. Unfortunately, Decoeli never escaped the clouds while Looper was on Sheep Mountain, so she never got a clear view of it. Photo looks SE.

The American Dingo and SPHP would gladly have stayed up on Sheep Mountain much longer, but the weather was beginning to deteriorate. Blue sky was disappearing. An endless procession of gray clouds was steadily approaching from the direction of the Slim River valley.

Probably best to be moving on. Sad, but true.

Sunshine was disappearing. An endless procession of gray clouds was advancing on **Sheep Mountain** from the direction of the **Slim River valley**. Sadly, it was time to go. Photo looks S.

Lupe wasn’t eager to be torn away from watching Dahl sheep, but she would see more of them on the trek back along the main ridgeline to the SW high point. Before setting out, Looper took one more look down on the Slims River valley and Kluane Lake from the S end of the summit ridge.

A last look at the **Slim River valley** from the S end of the **Sheep Mountain** summit ridge. Photo looks S.

A final look down on **Kluane Lake** from the S end of the summit ridge. Photo looks SE.

Starting back. The high point at the SW end of the **Sheep Mountain** main ridge is in the distance on the L. Photo looks SW.

While still on the main ridge, a rain shower hit. Fortunately, it didn’t rain hard, and didn’t last long. Lupe and SPHP pressed on. More rain showers were threatening. However, Lupe did stop briefly when she reached Sheep Mountain’s SW high point again.

Yikes! Looking down Sheep Mountain’s SE face.

Loopster back at the SW high point. Rain was threatening again, but never did hit. Photo looks S.

Looking S up the **Slim River valley** from **Sheep Mountain** before heading down.

A final look at the toe of the **Kaskawulsh Glacier**. Photo looks S with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Rain threatened again, but never did catch up with Lupe. On the way down the long NW ridge from the SW high point, Looper had a blast! It was windy out, and the breeze made her half wild. She ran all over the place sniffing and exploring.

Back on the Sheep Creek trail, the fun continued when the Carolina Dog found squirrels to bark at in the trees. Many times she showed off how fast she was for SPHP, racing up and down the dusty trail kicking up clouds of dust as if she were the Roadrunner. SPHP praised her for her boundless energy and great enthusiasm.

And that was it. Lupe’s marvelous Sheep Mountain adventure was over. (8:32 PM, 59°F) Evening found her at the S end of Kluane Lake.

At the S end of **Kluane Lake** at the end of the day. **Mount Wallace** is on the L. Photo looks N.

Of course, Sheep Mountain was in view right across the bay. Sheep Mountain had been a great adventure, a superb day! Only a few hours ago, Lupe had been up there, way up at the top.

Only a light breeze blew down here. Kluane Lake was a gently rippling inland sea. Everything was blue and white and silver and gray. A dark blue procession of seldom visited, mysterious peaks marched endlessly N, far beyond Kluane Lake, forever on their way to the Arctic.

Tomorrow Lupe would be on her way there, too.

Kluane Lake, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-13-17

Kluane Lake & Shepherd’s Knoll in the Slims River Valley, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-8-16)

Decoeli, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-9-16)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Decoeli, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-9-16)

Day 11 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

No matter what hour of the night Lupe woke up, there was light in the northern sky. Twilight moved slowly around the horizon, but never completely disappeared. Lupe was N, as far N as she had ever been in her life. Beyond huge, dark Kluane Lake, a line of mysterious unknown mountains marched away to the Arctic. It all seemed surreal, but Lupe really was here, in the fabled Yukon!

Two days ago, Lupe had climbed her first peak in the Yukon, King’s Throne Peak (6,529 ft.) in Kluane National Park. It had been a long, hard climb in powerful, swirling winds, but Lupe had made it to the top. She had been rewarded with spectacular views of Kathleen Lake, Louise Lake and mountains of the Saint Elias range.

From King’s Throne Peak, Lupe had seen another peak off to the NW, the mountain she would attempt to climb today – Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.). If Lupe could reach the summit of Decoeli, it was possible she would get to see the highest mountain in Canada, Mount Logan (19,541 ft.), far off to the WSW!

At some point, the long twilight became a long dawn, as the sun started sneaking back up toward the horizon again. Twenty minutes after the sun finally appeared (6:30 AM, 39°F), Lupe was at the long, paved pullout on the W side of the Alaska Highway that serves as the trailhead for the trek to Decoeli. No one else was here. The G6 was alone in the huge parking area.

At 7:23 AM, all was ready. Lupe and SPHP left the pullout heading S to a cairn marking the start of the route to Decoeli. Nearby an old jeep trail headed SW into a forest of stunted trees and tall soapberry bushes. Lupe and SPHP followed the jeep trail, which soon met another similar road coming from the E. Lupe took the new road W. Mount Decoeli was in sight up ahead.

Mount Decoeli from along the jeep trail. Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.

About a kilometer from the Alaska Highway, the road ended at Summit Creek. From here, Lupe’s route followed Summit Creek upstream. The creek led Lupe toward a still unseen rock glacier S of Mount Decoeli.

Lupe reaches Summit Creek at the end of the road. From here, Lupe followed the creek upstream toward a still unseen rock glacier at the base of the snow streaked mountain on the L. Lupe's objective, the summit of Decoeli, is seen on the R. Photo looks WSW. — Lupe reaches Summit Creek at the end of the road. From here, Lupe followed the creek upstream toward a still unseen rock glacier at the base of the snow streaked mountain on the L. Lupe’s objective, the summit of Decoeli, is seen on the R. Photo looks WSW.

Summit Creek was running low, but not low enough for SPHP to cross without getting wet feet. Lupe and SPHP stayed on the S side of the creek for as long as possible. It was generally easiest to simply travel right up the creek bed. However, Summit Creek often ran right along the S bank of the stream channel, forcing Lupe and SPHP up into the bushes above the bank.

At first, there were usually some pretty decent trails to follow through the brush, but as Lupe got farther and farther upstream, these trails deteriorated, becoming hard to find and follow. The jungle of bushes was so dense, it was almost impossible to make any headway where there wasn’t some kind of path.

Being in the tall bushes made SPHP increasingly nervous. Nothing more than a few feet away was in view. With the stream babbling along close by, it wasn’t easy to hear anything else. SPHP kept up a lively, loud conversation with Lupe, counting on Lupe to give some warning if she smelled bears in the area.

After being repeatedly forced up into the jungle, SPHP finally decided enough was enough! Lupe and SPHP forded Summit Creek, and stayed out in the open on the wide, rocky creek bed.

Of course, fording the stream meant SPHP’s feet were now soaking wet. They stayed that way. Summit Creek kept insisting upon flowing back and forth all the way from one side of the stream channel to the other, so Lupe and SPHP had to keep crossing the creek. Nevertheless, Lupe’s upstream progress was much faster out on the rocks. Furthermore, if any bears were in the area, at least out on the creek bed they could be seen well before coming right up on them.

After a long trek, Lupe could see the rock glacier S of Decoeli up ahead.

The rock glacier is now in view below the snow-streaked mountain up ahead. Photo looks WSW.

By the time Lupe reached the toe of the rock glacier, the dense jungle of bushes on the banks of Summit Creek was gone. Lupe left the creek bed to start climbing the green, mossy slope on the N bank. A trail showed others had taken this route before. Lupe liked being out on the spongy, mossy slope a lot better than being down on the rocky stream bed.

Lupe nears the toe of the rock glacier. About the time she reached it, she left the creek bed to follow a trail up the mossy slope on the R. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe greatly preferred being on this spongy, mossy ground. She would eventually climb from the little knob seen on the ridgeline at (Center), up to the summit of Mount Decoeli on the R. Photo looks NW.

Lupe had already gained a fair amount of elevation on the long, gentle trek up Summit Creek to the rock glacier. Now that she had left the creek bed, though, things were about to get a lot steeper! Photo looks NW.

Only a few minutes after Lupe left the creek bed, SPHP heard voices. Looking back, two people and a big brown dog were in sight not too far away. They were moving fast, coming up the creek bed, just like Lupe and SPHP had.

Lupe’s route was much steeper up on the green, spongy ground, than it had been down by Summit Creek. Rather than turn NW directly up the steep slope, it seemed best to follow the trail W for a little while making a more gradual climb. Lupe had already crossed a big ravine and gained a fair amount of elevation above the rock glacier, by the time the two hikers and their dog overtook SPHP.

Two hikers and their big brown dog overtook SPHP near this point. Photo looks SW over the rock glacier.

The two hikers were Milo and Ben, from Smithers, British Columbia, with their dog, Lucca. Lucca was bigger than Lupe, and not too sociable. Lucca growled menacingly. Lupe wisely kept her distance. Milo, Ben and SPHP had a brief, friendly conversation.

Had Lupe and SPHP seen the grizzly bear? Uh, no. What grizzly bear? Where? Milo and Ben said they had come across a huge, steaming, fresh grizzly scat at the junction of the two roads leading to Summit Creek. Shortly after that, they saw the grizzly. Fortunately, it just ambled off into the bushes where they lost sight of it.

SPHP was certain that a giant steaming bear scat hadn’t been at the road intersection when Lupe passed by. Even if SPHP hadn’t noticed it, Lupe certainly would have! The bear must have been fairly close by, though, for it to come through before Milo and Ben showed up. Yeah, avoiding the bushes, and staying out on the rocks on the wide Summit Creek channel was definitely the way to go on the way back!

All resumed the climb up Decoeli. Milo, Ben and Luca were soon well ahead of Lupe and SPHP. Everyone had turned NW going directly up the steep slope. For a little way farther, the ground was still covered with nice spongy, green plants. Pretty soon, though, Lupe reached rocky ground again. From here on, Lupe faced a long, steep climb up very loose scree mixed with occasional large rocks.

Lupe reaches the scree. She isn't to the steepest part of the climb quite yet. Worryingly, a cloud had appeared, and now clung to the summit of Decoeli. Photo looks NW. — Lupe reaches the scree. She isn’t to the steepest part of the climb quite yet. Worryingly, a cloud had appeared, and now clung to the summit of Decoeli. Photo looks NW.

Lupe on her way up Decoeli. She went over the orange-tan colored knob beyond her, and then climbed toward the saddle seen L of Center on the ridge. Photo looks NW.

Although most of the sky was clear, a worrisome cloud formed and grew around the summit of Decoeli. It hung around for a while, but eventually blew away to the E. In the meantime, Lupe was making steady progress up Decoeli. She was now approaching the most challenging part of the climb.

Lupe and SPHP reached a long, incredibly steep, scree slope. The climb became rather unnerving. Virtually everything was loose. With each step up, the mountain gave way. Rocks slid and careened down the mountain from under SPHP’s feet. Now and then, entire areas began to slide, taking SPHP sliding back down, too, before stabilizing. Nothing wanted to hold. It was like trying to navigate a river of rock flowing in the opposite direction.

Most of the few large rocks on the slope were loose, too. SPHP avoided coming up directly below them. Even Lupe was causing showers of rocks to tumble, sometimes bounding hundreds of feet down the mountain. It was dangerous for Lupe and SPHP to be directly above or below each other, for fear of the projectiles being released from above.

Lupe on the scary steep scree slope. The American Dingo was doing fine. She was heading for the saddle just L of Center. Photo looks NW.

Lupe headed up toward large rock formations along the ridge to the WNW. She gained elevation relentlessly. The view back down the precipitous scree slope toward the rock glacier was tremendous. Lupe was as calm as ever. SPHP, however, found it better not to look down too long upon the dizzying scene.

Lupe nears the first big rock formation. No wonder the Carolina Dog was so calm on this steep scree slope – she was keeping her eyes closed! Photo looks WNW.

Lupe reached the top of the first big rock formation. On a small area of relatively level terra firma, Lupe and SPHP took a break. At Summit Creek, the air had been calm, but up here a cool breeze was blowing. The views were already fantastic, even though Lupe still had a considerable climb ahead. Lupe and SPHP relaxed for 10 minutes, recovering from the ordeal on the treacherous scree slope.

Lupe at the first rock formation above the treacherous scree slope. Photo looks S toward the rock glacier, now many hundreds of feet below.

Lupe was now on the ridge that had been visible from below. Another, longer ridge was in view off to the W. The longer ridge looked like it might very well have been a considerably easier route up. Perhaps Lupe should have stayed down near the rock glacier longer, following it farther SW before turning N to start her climb. Maybe she should take that ridge on the way back down?

The long, low ridge seen beyond Lupe would have been a much easier route up Decoeli. To get to it, Lupe would have had to follow the rock glacier farther SW before turning N to start her climb. Photo looks W.

Off to the NW, SPHP saw another climber! He was at about Lupe’s level. Apparently, he had come up somewhere along that longer ridge, thereby avoiding the super steep, scree slope. This new climber also saw SPHP, and waved. SPHP waved back. No doubt, Lupe would get to meet him at the top of the mountain.

Lupe continued her climb up Decoeli. She was now traveling up the ridgeline, no longer on the scree slope. The ridge was still very rocky, and quite steep, but the rocks were more stable than before. Soon, Lupe came to another rock formation where there was a small patch of level ground.

Lupe reaches a 2nd rock formation along the ridgeline. There was a little level ground here, but Lupe still faced a fairly long climb to reach the top of Decoeli. Photo looks NW.

Lupe was getting closer to the top of Decoeli. She still had to gain hundreds of feet of elevation, but the nature of the climb was changing. The slope ahead, while still steep, was broader and covered with talus. The large rocks were much more stable. Projectiles were no longer being released with every step.

Lupe and SPHP toiled upward. A cold W wind was blowing. The sky overhead was a clear, brilliant blue. The slope diminished. A weather vane, spinning rapidly, came into view. Beyond it, a silver metal shack perched atop the mountain. Milo, Ben and the new climber were all there, engaged in conversation. Weary, Lucca had collapsed on the rocks. She didn’t stir at all, as Lupe went by.

After gaining nearly 4,400 ft. of elevation, Lupe had made it to the top of Decoeli (7,650 ft.)! The views were fantastic, but disappointingly, off to the WSW, there were clouds in the direction where Mount Logan should be. High, snowy peaks were partially in view, but many summits were not.

Far to the WSW, partially shrouded by clouds, were giant snowy peaks of the Saint Elias range. This photo was taken as Lupe arrived at the summit of Decoeli. Even a partial view was a stirring sight! SPHP wondered if Lupe was gazing upon Mount Logan, the highest peak in all of Canada, among the distant giants she could see? Photo taken with the telephoto lens.

Milo and Ben chat with Richard Baker. Poor, exhausted Lucca was passed out on the rocks. Photo looks WNW.

After a few minutes gazing at the amazing views, Lupe and SPHP went to see Ben, Milo, and Lucca and meet the other climber. He was Richard Baker, owner of a seasonal window cleaning business in Tucson, Arizona. Richard was quite animated, and busy expounding upon his philosophy of life among other topics.

Milo and Ben were telling the tale of the grizzly bear. Richard couldn’t believe he hadn’t seen the bear scat, or noticed the grizzly. He is normally very wary in bear country, and was well-equipped with bear spray and other protective devices.

Milo and Ben were both wearing shorts, and feeling a bit uncomfortable in the cold breeze. Since they intended to start back down soon, it was time for a photo op with them at the summit cairn. Milo said they had just built the cairn higher while Lupe was coming up Decoeli, which explained it’s magnificently balanced slender height.

Ben (L) and Milo (R) at the newly improved Decoeli summit cairn with their dog, Lucca, and Lupe. Ben is 16, and in school. Milo is 50, and works in the lumber industry. They were all from Smithers, British Columbia. They had been climbing mountains on 5 of the past 7 days. Like Lupe, they had also been to King's Throne. Photo looks S. — Ben (L) and Milo (R) at the newly improved Decoeli summit cairn with their dog, Lucca, and Lupe. Ben is 16, and in school. Milo is 50, and works in the lumber industry. They were all from Smithers, British Columbia. They had been climbing mountains on 5 of the past 7 days. Like Lupe, they had also been to King’s Throne. Photo looks S.

Spurred on by the cold wind, Milo, Ben and Lucca started down Decoeli. Lupe did not see them again. Richard, Lupe and SPHP were in no hurry to leave. Richard and SPHP chatted while admiring the views. Gradually, the clouds were lifting in the W! Many towering ice-clad mountains were in sight. Richard shared his binoculars with SPHP.

Both Richard and SPHP wondered whether or not Mount Logan was in sight, and if so, which giant peak it might be. Richard thought it was one farther to the N than SPHP believed. In truth, neither Richard nor SPHP really knew, but it was fun to speculate. It remained a pretty good bet that Lupe was seeing Mount Logan somewhere over there!

Lupe scans distant giants of snow and ice from Decoeli. Somewhere over there was Mount Logan, the highest peak in all of Canada, and 2nd highest peak in North America! SPHP believes Lupe did see Mount Logan, even though neither Richard nor SPHP knew exactly which peak was it. Photo looks WSW.

SPHP believes the highest mountain at Center is Mount Cairns (9,186 ft.). Photo looks WNW. — SPHP believes the highest mountain at Center is **Mount Cairns (9,186 ft.)**. Photo looks WNW.

Looking SE from Decoeli. Two large lakes are seen faintly on the L. Kathleen Lake is the closest. Dezadeash Lake is the more distant. The long slope rising to the R from between them is the NE ridge that Lupe climbed 2 days earlier to reach the summit of King's Throne (6,529 ft.), which is barely in view. — Looking SE from Decoeli. Two large lakes are seen faintly on the L. Kathleen Lake is the closest. Dezadeash Lake is the more distant. The long slope rising to the R from between them is the NE ridge that Lupe climbed 2 days earlier to reach the summit of King’s Throne (6,529 ft.), which is barely in view.

Kluane Lake from Decoeli. Photo looks NW.

Gradually, the clouds to the W lifted, allowing a better view of the stunning, distant peaks of the Saint Elias range. Neither Richard nor SPHP knew the names of any of them, but nevertheless, they were an inspiring sight! Photo looks W.

A world of snow and ice. Was that huge snowy ramp on the R, Mt. Logan? It was SPHP's favorite candidate. It would be fun to know the truth! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens. — A world of snow and ice. Was that huge snowy ramp on the R, Mt. Logan? It was SPHP’s favorite candidate. It would be fun to know the truth! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.

Mount Logan? No one knew. It's some grand and massive peak, for certain! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens. — Mount Logan? No one knew. It’s some grand and massive peak, for certain! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.

More spectacular high peaks. Photo looks W.

A lofty white peak R of Center looks almost made of clouds. But what's that slope on the L? It was hard to tell if it was a cloud or part of some colossal mountain. Photo looks W. — A lofty white peak R of Center looks almost made of clouds. But what’s that slope on the L? It was hard to tell if it was a cloud or part of some colossal mountain. Photo looks W.

Richard and SPHP spent so long taking turns looking through the binoculars, that Lupe became a bit bored with it all. She was tired of standing around, and disliked the cold wind. Lupe had water, some Taste of the Wild, and curled up on as flat a spot as she could find. SPHP covered her with a jacket to help her keep warm.

Richard Baker on Decoeli. Richard was quite animated and friendly. He shared his binoculars and philosophy with SPHP. Richard’s window cleaning business in Tucson, AZ is seasonal enough to permit him time to travel and climb mountains part of the year.

After Lupe and SPHP had been at the summit for 50 minutes, Richard announced that he was ready to head down. Lupe and SPHP remained on top of Decoeli alone a little longer for a last look around. The views remained simply astounding! Climbing Decoeli had been a challenging, yet magnificently rewarding experience.

Lupe not far from the Decoeli summit cairn for the last time. Photo looks S.

The best route down Decoeli passes to the R of the small prominence seen L of Center overlooking the rock glacier. Photo looks S..

Richard Baker starts down Decoeli. Mount Cairnes is in view at Center. Photo looks WNW.

Sadly, it was time to move on. Lupe and SPHP set off following Richard down the mountain. This time, Lupe stayed on the longer ridge going SSW. The first part of the descent down the talus slope was still quite steep and slow, but by staying on the SSW ridge, Lupe was able to avoid having to go down the treacherous scree slope to the SE where she and SPHP had come up.

Richard was leading the way, taking the same long SSW ridge. Even this route was steep enough so SPHP had to be careful not to send rocks bounding down the mountain toward him. Several times SPHP had to shout a warning.

The SSW ridge led down toward a wide saddle. The rock glacier Lupe would eventually have to turn toward is out of sight farther down to the L. Although this route wasn't as difficult as the scree slope Lupe and SPHP climbed going up, it was still plenty steep. Richard can be seen ahead. SPHP had to be careful not to send loose rocks bounding down the mountain at him. Photo looks SSW. — The SSW ridge led down toward a wide saddle. The rock glacier Lupe would eventually have to turn toward is out of sight farther down to the L. Although this route wasn’t as difficult as the scree slope Lupe and SPHP climbed going up, it was still plenty steep. Richard can be seen ahead. SPHP had to be careful not to send loose rocks bounding down the mountain at him. Photo looks SSW.

Unnamed peaks beyond the saddle SSW of Decoeli. Photo looks SSW.

Partly out of fear of rocks hurtling down the mountain, Richard stopped off to the side long enough to let Lupe and SPHP catch up. While climbing Decoeli, Richard had originally come up from the SE to reach this broad, gentler slope on the long SSW ridge. He had also had to climb up a steep, scree slope on the way, but not for nearly as far as Lupe.

Ahead was a small prominence overlooking the rock glacier to the S. The question was whether to start down to the SE now, or circle around the W side of the prominence? After a little discussion and scouting around, it was decided to go the long way around the W side. There were numerous sheep trails Lupe could follow in this area.

Going down around the prominence overlooking the rock glacier. The top of the prominence is out of sight up the L slope. Richard leads the way, while Lupe wonders what's keeping SPHP? The rock glacier is in view ahead. Photo looks SSE. — Going down around the prominence overlooking the rock glacier. The top of the prominence is out of sight up the L slope. Richard leads the way, while Lupe wonders what’s keeping SPHP? The rock glacier is in view ahead. Photo looks SSE.

Looking SSE at the mountains beyond the rock glacier. It's possible the more distant peak on the L is Mount Archibald (8,491 ft.), but SPHP isn't certain. — Looking SSE at the mountains beyond the rock glacier. It’s possible the more distant peak on the L is **Mount Archibald (8,491 ft.)**, but SPHP isn’t certain.

Lupe on her way down Decoeli. Photo looks N.

Eventually, Lupe, Richard and SPHP all arrived down at the rock glacier. Up close, it was possible to see there really was melting snow and glacial ice under all the rock.

Richard, Lupe and SPHP all started the journey NE toward the rock glacier’s toe. The terrain along the NW side of the glacier was often rough and broken. After staying near the glacier’s edge for a while, SPHP tried leading Lupe up a steep bank to a green, spongy area overlooking the glacier. This maneuver did not help. Lupe quickly arrived at a ravine leading right back down to the glacier.

Richard had stayed down by the rock glacier. He forged ahead, while Lupe and SPHP navigated the ravine. By the time Lupe reached the toe of the glacier, Richard was out of sight somewhere down Summit Creek.

Lupe and SPHP made great progress going down the wide, rock-strewn Summit Creek channel. This time, SPHP didn’t hesitate to simply ford the creek whenever necessary. Every now and then, Lupe caught sight of Richard far ahead. The long trek down the creek bed was actually quite easy and fun. Lupe and SPHP enjoyed the beautiful long Yukon evening.

Near the start of the jeep trail, Lupe and SPHP caught up with Richard again. Richard and SPHP chatted as Lupe trotted along the road. Richard expounded upon grizzly bears. He was carrying bear spray and other anti-bear devices to deal with them. He talked about how all these tall bushes with small red berries growing along the road were soapberry bushes, and how bears love soapberries!

At the intersection where the road forked, there it was, just like Milo and Ben had said. A huge grizzly bear scat full of soapberries was right there at the intersection. Richard still couldn’t believe he hadn’t seen it in the morning!

The sun was getting low when Lupe reached the G6. She’d had a long, long day. Without the slightest hesitation, she hopped into the G6. Lupe curled up on her blankets and pillows, looking forward to a soft, comfy snooze. For more than an hour outside, Richard and SPHP conversed about Decoeli, bears, and other things. Richard even offered SPHP a free canister of bear spray. SPHP thanked him, but declined.

When Richard said good-bye and drove off, SPHP joined Lupe in the G6. The sun was about to set. What a fantastic, memorable day it had been! Lupe had made it to the top of Decoeli. She had almost certainly seen Mount Logan, the highest mountain in all of Canada.

Lupe and SPHP drove N on the Alaska Highway on the way to Kluane Lake, as the still glowing evening faded slowly from the wild Yukon mountains and sky.

Lupe's long, fabulous Day of Decoeli draws to a close. — Lupe’s long, fabulous Day of Decoeli draws to a close.

Sunset, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-9-16

Note: The trailhead for Mount Decoeli is a long, paved pullout 12.5 miles N of Haines Junction on the W side of the Alaska Highway. (1.4 miles N of the Spruce Beetle trailhead.) Decoeli is near, but not actually in, Kluane National Park. The route up is not maintained or signed in any manner. There is no formal trail. Elevation gain is a bit under 4,400 feet, or 1330 meters. Distance is roughly 11 miles or 18 km round trip.

A free description of the route up Decoeli is available from visitor centers near Haines Junction and Kluane Lake.

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