Days 15, 16 & Part 1 of Day 17 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-6-23, 6:03 AM, 62ºF, Steese Highway at the Twelvemile Summit Wayside, Alaska – Lupe was already awake, panting on her pink blanket.
About time you woke up, SPHP. Can you please open the RAV4’s windows and let some air in here? I’m roasting!
Sorry, Miss Hot-Blooded. Seemed like a mighty comfortable night to me. Yes, I’ll open the windows as soon as we get going. The mosquitoes are bad, which is why they’re closed in the first place.
So, where are we going today, anyway, SPHP?
Fairbanks first. We can get some weather forecasts there, and maybe find out if there’s anywhere we can escape this endless smoke.
8-6-23, 1:15 PM, 76ºF, Fairbanks, Alaska –
Any decision yet, SPHP? You’ve been dithering for hours! It’s hot in here even with the windows open when we’re not moving.
I know it, but the situation is just incredible, Loopster! Who would have thought that we would run into the worst air quality in North America this far N? Rain expected almost every day in SW Alaska, which doesn’t do us any good, and hot and smoky almost everywhere else, even up in the Brooks Range for the next few days. Heavy rains incoming after that.
There must be someplace where it isn’t raining or on fire, SPHP.
Yes, way down by Whitehorse and Haines Junction in the Yukon, the air quality and weather are both lovely. Would be wonderful, if we were on our way back home, Looper, but we’re not.
Well, what about the Dempster Highway, SPHP? Are things any better there yet?
The air quality map says it’s still smoky all the way from Dawson City to Tuktoyaktuk, Loop. An apocalypse all the way to the Arctic Ocean! It’s unbelievable! Always dreamed of having some decent weather so we could climb a few peaks in the Richardson Range. Yet now that it’s finally warm and dry in that territory instead of the usual freezing rain and snow we’ve encountered there before, the boreal forests and tundra are on fire, and the smoke is terrible.
So, what are we going to do then, SPHP? Just sit here wasting time?
No, right or wrong, I’ll make up my mind one way or another shortly, Loopster. Promise!
SPHP did decide, but before even getting out of Fairbanks turned the RAV4 around, reversing the decision.
No Brooks Range, SPHP?
Love the Brooks Range! You know that, Loop, but we were there last year. This was supposed to be the year the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returned to Tuktoyaktuk. I guess we may as well try it. After all, how many warm, dry years are we going to have a shot at in the Richardson Mountains? This might be our only chance to do much of anything there. Maybe we’ll get lucky, and the smoke won’t be that bad by the time we get there?
I’ve never been to an Arctic apocalypse before, SPHP. Maybe it will be fun?
Count your blessings, Loopster. Apocalypses usually don’t have that much to commend them, but we’ll see.
8-6-23, 2:42 PM, Alaska Highway, halfway to Delta Junction – The smoke thickened, the sky turned an eerie orange, and it got noticeably darker.
What’s happening, SPHP? Have we reached the apocalypse already?
I don’t know. Seems that way, doesn’t it, Looper?
Suddenly, the smoke was no longer down on the highway, but looming menacingly overhead. A few miles farther, SPHP stopped at a pullout along the Tanana River. Lupe leapt out of the RAV4 for a look. Beyond the river, an enormous plume of smoke was rising from unseen fires off to the NW.
Hah! Look at that, Loop! Appears we’re already leaving the apocalypse behind us.
Oh, I hope so, SPHP! Didn’t think it would be this easy.
Air quality was greatly improved on the way to Tok, and remained the best it had been since way back at Telkwa Microwave Mountain in British Columbia after turning onto the Taylor Highway. A bit of haze, but Mount Fairplay was easily visible from a great distance against a blue sky when Lupe reached a pullout on a high ridge with a view.
Maybe you made the right choice, SPHP? The air is definitely much clearer now than when we climbed Mount Fairplay 4 days ago.
Oh, yeah! Undisputable. We couldn’t have seen Mount Fairplay at all from here back then, Loop.
The improvement in air quality was most encouraging, but by the time Lupe reached Chicken, another plume of smoke was visible. It turned out to be farther off than it first seemed, and SPHP eventually drove past that region. However, another plume of smoke appeared N of the Top of the World Highway shortly before reaching the Canadian border.
8-6-23, 8:35 PM, Top of the World Highway – Customs closed at 6:00 PM, so Lupe had arrived much too late to enter Canada today. SPHP parked the RAV4 at a pullout a mile W of the border. NW of this pullout, a huge expanse of territory was in view. It was all somewhat smoky, and many small plumes could be seen rising from a hill only a few miles away.
Every now and then, a towering bright orange flame would flare up briefly on that hill before dying away within a few minutes. The air was much clearer to the SE, protected by a breeze that kept the smoke away. After hanging around the pullout for nearly an hour and seeing a fox trot through it, which was pretty exciting, it getting on toward sunset.
We ought to climb Davis Dome (4,124 ft.), SPHP! For an apocalypse, it’s a lovely evening, and I’ve been cooped up in the RAV4 most of the day.
Great minds think alike, Loopster! Let’s do it!
Davis Dome was no big deal – an easy romp! Located immediately WSW of the pullout, less than 300 feet of elevation gain got Lupe to the top.
8-6-23, 9:39 PM, Davis Dome (4,124 ft.) – The summit region was big, round, flat, and covered with tundra and small rocks. There were a few things to see up here in addition to the unobstructed expansive views. Conducting a clockwise tour, the first item of interest along this route was an odd green shack near the SW edge.
We’ve seen other sheds like this before, SPHP. I presume it has something to do with the weather or communications like you always tell me?
Yes, I suppose so. I don’t actually know what any of them are for, Loop. Just a guess.
Two cairns were over by the N edge of the summit region. The largest cairn sat on a big rock that had a survey benchmark attached to it. And that was about it for highlights other than the views. Rounded hills and ridges, most of them lower, extended to the horizon in all directions.
While these vast empty scenes were all amazing, a couple of views stood out. Canadian and US customs over by two hills 1.5 mile NE, and looking off to the NW, an orange sun setting beyond the smoking hill.
20 minutes on Davis Dome, and the show was over. The sun was gone.
Getting late, Loop. Already 10:00 PM. Might as well head back. Another long drive ahead of us tomorrow.
Are we going to be making any stops along the way, SPHP?
Sure, Looper, but exactly when, where, and for how long all depends on what we find. No big adventures if it’s really smoky.
8-7-23, 12:30 AM – SPHP woke suddenly to a low growl. A waxing moon was shining brightly in the E. At a 90º angle, a bit of twilight remained visible far to the N. Seemed a peculiar arrangement for a night sky, but not unusual in Alaska. Hackles up, Lupe was alert, watching. Something was out there in the night! Considerably larger than the fox seen earlier, a coyote, or maybe a wolf, was slinking its way across the pullout. The American Dingo exploded into a barking frenzy.
A wolf, SPHP! A real live wild wolf!
You’re a great watch Dingo, Looper, but forget it! Not letting you out there to tangle with that!
8-7-23, 7:41 AM, 64ºF – Davis Dome made a great morning constitutional, in addition to offering a first glimpse of what the day had in store. Off to the N, smoke drifted lazily in the valleys, while more billowed up toward the NW.
Mordor as seen from afar, Looper.
Mordor? Such drama, SPHP! Look at that incredible blue sky above it all. Everyone knows Mordor doesn’t have skies like that.
Me, drama? Really, Loop? What about your gut-busting barking frenzy last night?
Totally justified. That wolf was real, SPHP!
8-7-23, 11:32 AM, 74ºF – As usual, the Carolina Dog had sailed through Canadian customs without a hitch. After a break for Ritz Crackers and cheese (Dingoes love crackers and cheese!) on the first big hill the Top of the World Highway climbed after entering Yukon Territory, SPHP hadn’t made any other stops. Smoke marred the views during the entire drive to the Yukon River where Lupe now stood waiting for the George Black Ferry to Dawson City.
Blue skies overhead, but the smoke wasn’t any better down in the river valley than it had been 5 days ago.
I know it’s smoky, but while we’re in Dawson, can we at least check out the views from Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.), SPHP?
But of course, Sweet Puppy, the smoke isn’t that bad, and Midnight Dome is a tradition. Basically just a drive up, so it won’t take all that long.
8-7-23, 1:12 PM, 81ºF – After leaving Dawson City, air quality improved dramatically during the drive E to the start of the Dempster Highway.
Wow! Can it be? Maybe the apocalypse has moved on, Loopster.
Uh, no. The journey N on the Dempster had barely begun when a huge plume of smoke came into view. A SE breeze was driving it straight at the Ogilvie Mountains. By KM 25, they could scarcely be seen at all.
Figures. We’ll see what they have to say at the Tombstone Interpretive Center, Loop.
It’s not looking good, SPHP.
Yeah, maybe we’re crazy coming all the way back here, Looper.
Speak for yourself, SPHP. I’m just along for the adventures!
8-7-23, 3:47 PM, 74ºF, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, KM 71 –
Any news, SPHP?
Yup. Not good news, though. Guess I was nuts for coming back all this way. They say the forecast is still for widespread heat and smoke. Chance of rain in a few days, but we’re not going to just sit here hoping for that to actually happen.
So, what’s the plan, SPHP?
We’re just going to keep driving N hoping for improvement, Loop.
And if we don’t get any? Then what, SPHP?
We’re committed now, Looper. Suppose we’ll simply drive all the way to Tuktoyaktuk and take a walk along the Arctic Ocean. Then we’ll have one last shot at conditions being better on the way back S.
Into the heart of the Arctic apocalypse then, SPSP?
Looks that way, Sweet Puppy.
The smoke was bad all the way through the Ogilvie Mountains. Lupe stared out the window as the RAV4 rolled past the sites of many terrific former adventures. Goldensides, Angelcomb, Surfbird, Peak 5262, Windy Pass Peak. In a thick haze, none of them bore the same appeal today. SPHP did stop for a little while at the bubbling pond several KM before Surfbird Mountain so the American Dingo could have a sniff.
Lupe was already on the way down the N side of the range by the time SPHP was willing to stop for some scenic river views. Engineer Creek and its mineral-laden orange tan waters was first. When Sapper Hill (3,084 ft.) came into view, it wasn’t much farther to the Ogilvie River. All of the drought-stricken rivers and streams were running way lower than Lupe had ever seen them before.
The Ogilvie River bridge goes right over the confluence with Engineer Creek, and provides an interesting view of the dramatic color contrast in the downstream direction before the waters mix. Lupe went out on the bridge for a look.
Careful, Loopster, and stay close! Let’s be quick about this. Seems like there’s 5 or 10 times as much traffic as there used to be.
Everyone else is discovering the Dempster Highway, too, SPHP, ever since the all-season extension from Inuvik to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk.
I know it, Loop. Can’t blame them for coming, the views from the highway alone are an epic adventure!
True enough, when there isn’t an Arctic Apocalypse going on and you can actually see them, SPHP.
Yeah, that’s been the whole problem lately, hasn’t it, Looper?
Two young men were relaxing under the Ogilvie River bridge. SPHP had a chat with them.
What did they say, SPHP?
They’re in the process of bicycling all the way to Tuktoyaktuk, Loop. Some people do such amazing things!
Not sure that’s such a great idea during an apocalypse, SPHP, even though we’re here, too.
Yeah, they were complaining about the never-ending smoke, Loopster. I can’t imagine how much particulate they must be inhaling. Can’t be good!
Leaving the mountains wasn’t helping. Churchward Hill was visible from the Elephant Rock rest area, a mere pullout along the Ogilvie River, but the Dempster Highway was all heat, dust, and smoke as the journey down the river valley continued.
8-7-23, 8:11 PM. Dempster Highway KM 259 – Surprisingly, no one was around after the big climb along Seven Mile Hill when Lupe reached the Ogilvie Ridge rest area. Normally there was a grand view of the Ogilvie and Peel river valley, as well as the N side of the Ogilvie Mountains, from here. Nothing to be seen today except particulate.
Two ravens hoping for a handout provided amusement.
Whatever you do, SPHP, don’t ask either of these ravens if we’ll ever see blue sky again. You know what they’ll say!
Indeed I do, Loopster. Not going to make that mistake!
With precious little to be seen here today other than the ravens and a few informational plaques on display, Lupe was soon on her way again.
Still time enough for a quick adventure today, Looper.
Really? What kind of adventure, SPHP?
The Ogilvie Ridge (3,048 ft.) high point is actually still some distance ahead. Won’t be long before we’ll be in that area. The Dempster Highway gets fairly close to the summit. Without much of an effort, we could tag it, just to say we’ve been there. What do you think?
Sounds good to me, SPHP. At least it’s something!
8-7-23, 8:40 PM, 74ºF – When a tower came into view on a nearby hill ahead, SPHP slowed down, looking for an access road on the L. Going around a bend, sure enough, there it was! SPHP parked the RAV4.
This is going to be even easier than I thought, Loop. Didn’t know that this would be a road hike.
Immediately upon setting out, the access road curved E, then continued that way for nearly a KM before making a sweeping 180º curve N and back around to the W. The microwave tower was once again in view ahead. The Ogilvie Ridge summit was, too, somewhat beyond it.
At the end of the access road, Lupe went around the fence enclosing the tower before heading NW across a brushy meadow toward the summit. Instead of a featureless, gently rounded dome, SPHP was surprised to see that Ogilvie Ridge’s summit sported some rock formations.
8-7-23, 9:05 PM, Ogilvie Ridge (3,048 ft.) – Three cairns were up here, the first one toward the SE, right where Lupe came up. The others sat next to each other a bit farther NW. The microwave tower was in view from any of them, as well as a decent-sized, flat, rocky summit plateau that extended a short distance N.
Due to the apocalypse, distant views were limited to the hazy outlines of hills a few miles away, or of nothing at all, depending on the direction.
Congratulations, Loopster! May I shake your paw? Can’t be too many Dingoes that have ever stood on the Ogilvie Ridge summit.
Certainly, SPHP! And might I remind you that it’s chocolate coconut bar time?
Ogilvie Ridge is such an easy romp that I didn’t even bring the pack, Loop.
A chocolate coconut bar would have fit in your pocket, SPHP.
Disappointingly, an exploratory stroll about the summit plateau yielded no sign of the survey benchmark that was supposed to be up here. And that was about it for Ogilvie Ridge. After a brief stay, Lupe scrambled back down the same way she’d come up, and headed back to the road.
8-7-23, 11:08 PM, Ogilvie Ridge – The smoke was so terrible by the time the trip journal was caught up, how far away the wildfires of the Arctic apocalypse could actually be was a real question. Perhaps worryingly close. SPHP had spoken to quite a few people during the day. Like Lupe, everyone was going to Tuktoyaktuk, had been there already, or turned back before reaching Eagle Plains, because the smoke had been ghastly. Hard to know what tomorrow, or even tonight, would bring.
8-8-23, 6:23 AM, 62ºF, Ogilvie Ridge – Well, not much of a change so far. The smoke was still awful.
At least we didn’t burn to a crisp last night, Looper. I was beginning to wonder. Onward, Sweet Puppy?
Onward, SPHP!
During the long drive to Eagle Plains, the Dempster Highway stayed up on big rounded ridges connecting various high points along the way. It was a winding, up and down journey. SPHP actually had several more hills in mind for mid-apocalypse entertainment that the Carolina Dog could tag for some rare Yukon Territory peakbagging credit. These hills were all among the highest along their stretch of the highway.
8-8-23, 7:39 AM, 58ºF – First up was Aitch Hill (2,198 ft.), roughly 40 miles beyond the Ogilvie Ridge summit. Shortly before reaching where the Dempster Highway topped out only 0.25 mile S of Aitch’s summit, a nice roomy pullout appeared on the L.
Here, we go, Loopster! Perfect spot to stash the RAV4 during our romp.
Taking advantage of the road, Lupe followed the Dempster Highway NE a short distance before climbing a small embankment and plunging NW into the boreal forest.
Aitch Hill was a blast! The American Dingo had a fabulous time sniffing her way first NW, then NNE in search of the true summit through a maze of narrow open lanes between the trees and bushes. No human junk cluttering up the mountain here! Aitch Hill was still wild.
There wasn’t even a cairn when Lupe reached what seemed to be about the highest point in a vast, almost level, forested region. SPHP built one.
The point where Lupe’s new cairn sat was a little SW of where SPHP had guessed the location of the true summit when entering Aitch Hill into the Peakbagger.com database. Wandering NE, it was impossible to tell if this area was any higher. Might as well head back. Turning E in search of the highway, Lupe quickly reached the edge of a 20 foot depression.
Staying on the high ground, the American Dingo followed the rim of the depression S until she could turn E again, soon reaching the Dempster Highway on top of a steep 20 foot high bank. Turning SW, Lupe followed this edge, too, until the bank shrank away enough to enable a road hike the rest of the way back to the RAV4.
8-8-23, 9:08 AM, 64ºF, Peak 815M (2,674 ft.) – After spotting another tower on a high point only 8 miles past Aitch Hill, SPHP made a L turn off the Dempster Highway onto a road that went 0.1 mile to where it split into 3 roads. Two of them led directly to a huge gravel highway maintenance yard. The third road angled uphill off to the R.
That must be the way to the tower we saw, Looper.
After a bit of steepness right at the start, Lupe followed the road’s gentle incline NE to where it hooked ESE the rest of the way to the tower at Peak 815M’s summit less than 0.5 mile from the RAV4.
Looks like the true summit is inside the fence, Loopster.
So it does, SPHP, and you know what? How much higher can it be than where we’re standing right now? A few feet at most. Close enough for Dingo work, I’m claiming it! Shake my paw, and we’re outta here!
8-8-23, 10:14 AM, 65ºF – The morning’s final peak was the best, and by far the most daring, Arctic apocalyptic experience of all. 11.5 miles past Peak 815M, SPHP turned L again onto a wide side road directly across the Dempster Highway from Corbett Hill’s NW slope.
Are you out of your mind, SPHP? It’s still on fire!
Just a little smoke, Loopster. We’re used to it by now, aren’t we?
Where there’s smoke there’s fire, SPHP! Let’s skip this one.
Eh, looks to me like the fire largely burnt itself out in the past few days, Looper. We’ll be fine. It’s only a little over 0.5 mile to the summit. Won’t take us long. If anything flares up at all, or if it gets breezy, we’ll come right back. Promise.
The American Dingo was leery, but followed SPHP up into the freshly charred forest.
Lupe soon got used to the blackened tundra. Showers of brown needles fell off the trees whenever SPHP brushed up against them. Only parts of Corbett Hill had burned, leaving patches of both charred and untouched tundra and forest.
Lupe passed several 6 to 8 foot deep pits, 20 feet wide and 40 feet long, dug by machinery for some unfathomable reason. There were no roads to them. More than halfway to the summit, she reached a big clearing.
If this doesn’t look like an Arctic apocalypse, I don’t know what does, SPHP!
Have to agree, Looper. Seems incredible, doesn’t it? Sure isn’t what the word “Arctic” typically brings to mind.
8-8-23, 10:43 AM, 65ºF, Corbett Hill (2,497 ft.) – Lupe rested comfortably on a patch of unburned tundra next to a metal tripod at the apparent true summit. A survey marker was centered directly below the tripod.
Congratulations, Loopster! Corbett Hill! Told ya we’d make it. Safe as a mouse in church.
Maybe so, SPHP. It’s certainly been an unusual adventure. Kind of freaked me out, but I don’t really mind it at all now. Still might be a good idea to head back soon, though.
Oh, we’re going to, Loop. Eagle Plains is only 3 miles from Corbett Hill. I’m looking forward to lunch at the Arctic Circle Restaurant. I’ll make sure you get a treat, too.
Well, what are we waiting for then? Onward! SPHP, ho!
8-8-23, 11:38 AM, 68ºF, Dempster Highway KM 369 – Eagle Plains was sure different from the other times Lupe had been here. Usually it was soaking wet and frigid, sometimes snowing hard and even threatening to become a blizzard. In these modern days of the Arctic apocalypse, though, Eagle Plains was smoky, warm, and dry.
After SPHP filled the RAV4 with fuel ($2.15 CAN per liter), Lupe got to go into the Eagle Plains Hotel with SPHP. She didn’t enter the restaurant, but got to meet some of the denizens in the lobby.
SPHP did enter the restaurant. Had a Reuben sandwich and a Coke.
Prices were high, service was slow, portions were small, but everyone was friendly, and it was good! The Arctic Circle Restaurant and Eagle Plains Hotel were the only such services between Dawson City and Inuvik, an island of civilization in a truly vast wilderness. Lupe and SPHP were lucky to be here! (Note: Fuel is available from 2 automated stations at the start of the Dempster Highway.)
8-8-23, 12:58 PM, 71ºF, Eagle Plains – As promised, Lupe got her treat, a Dingo stick. A white dog outside the hotel got one, too.
Nice, but next time get me a Reuben sandwich, too, SPHP. What’s next on our apocalypse tour?
Only 35 KM to the Arctic Circle, Loopster. We’ll be there within the hour!
Links
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
The Dempster Highway Travelogue
Lupe’s Davis Dome GPS Track (8-6-23)
Lupe’s Ogilvie Ridge GPS Track (8-7-23)
Lupe’s Aitch Hill GPS Track (8-8-23)
Lupe’s Peak 815M GPS Track (8-8-23)
Lupe’s Corbett Hill GPS Track (8-8-23)
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.