Part 2 of Day 11 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
2:37 PM, Taylor Highway at the Mount Fairplay Wayside – Discouraging! That’s what the first faint view of Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) dimly seen in the distance amid a sea of smoke had been, but the mountain was considerably closer now.
The smoke doesn’t look that bad from here, SPHP. Let’s go for it!
Oh, we’re going to, Loopster! The way this Dingo Vacation has been going, we’re climbing anything that’s even marginal, unless and until we can find clearer skies. Besides, it’s been nearly 4 years since we’ve been up on Mount Fairplay, and I’m really looking forward to it.
3:40 PM, 69ºF, Taylor Highway, MP 32.8 – SPHP nearly had the backpack ready to go when a caribou suddenly emerged from the bushes on the opposite side of the road, and began trotting N. Still relaxing on her pink blanket in the RAV4, Lupe didn’t see the caribou until SPHP pointed it out. An immediate, enthusiastic barking fit ensued, spurring the caribou to pick up its pace before once again vanishing among the bushes.
Let me out, SPHP! A caribou!
I know, it was awesome, Loop! Trotted right past me. Gone now, though, so forget it. You know, if you’re interested in wildlife, maybe being a bit more subtle would help. In any case, we’ve got a mountain to climb!
SPHP opened the door, and Lupe hopped out.
I’ve never seen Mount Fairplay looking so green before, SPHP. Usually it’s a mountain of gold!
That’s because we’ve never been here this early in the season before. Another 2 or 3 weeks, and it won’t look like summer anymore. A month, and the colors will be amazing. Actually better then, Looper, but it is what it is, and we’re here now. So, onward! Puppy ho!
SPHP crossed the highway and started up into the bushes, but the American Dingo hung back near the RAV4. In full sun and a fur coat on a warm day, suddenly Lupe wasn’t nearly as motivated as she’d been only moments ago when the caribou had been here.
You coming, Loopster? Or are you suffering from PCDS?
PCDS? What’s that, SPHP?
Post-Caribou Depression Syndrome.
Oh, I see. Yes, I think I’ve got some PCDS, SPHP, but mainly I’m just kind of hot.
We’ll take it slow and easy, Looper, so you don’t get overheated. As far as the PCDS goes, who knows? We might see more caribou during the trek up Mount Fairplay. That would be a surefire cure, wouldn’t it?
Somewhat encouraged, Lupe followed at a distance while playing her stalking game. The Carolina Dog repeatedly sat in whatever shade she could find, semi-hidden among the bushes until SPHP was out of sight, before pursuing and catching up.
Although it didn’t look like much, a mildly steep slope forming the first part of the ascent was actually the most difficult. The bushes down near the highway were taller and thicker, and a band of alders above them presented even more challenges. Lupe enjoyed the shade and had no problem slinking between them, but SPHP had to force a way through.
Fortunately, the alders weren’t that big yet, and didn’t extend too far up the slope. SPHP managed to get past them, and progress improved as Lupe headed for the toe of a vast, gentler slope extending ESE toward a saddle on Mount Fairplay’s broad, gently rounded S ridge.
The bushes were quite a bit smaller up on the long, gentle slope, which looked like an easy stroll. However, prior experience had shown that the march higher wasn’t going to be as easy as it appeared. The tundra was very thick and spongy, making each step much more of an effort than it should have been. Walking on the giant slope was like taking a trek on an enormous marshmallow. Furthermore, although Lupe had never run into mosquitoes on Mount Fairplay before, they were here in such numbers today that SPHP finally had to break out the Deet.
The most significant obstacle, though, grew in great abundance. Wild blueberries were everywhere! Juicy, but their tartness this early in the season helped SPHP avoid becoming ensnarled in the blueberry trap for too long, although SPHP wouldn’t have objected to such an outcome in the least, if they’d been a little sweeter.
The long trudge higher went on with frequent short breaks, mostly due to the amount of effort required by the sponginess of the tundra. This slope usually had some nice water holes Lupe could take advantage of on it, but they were nearly all dry today. Didn’t really matter, since SPHP had brought plenty of water along. Just another indication of how hot and dry this summer had been in the far N.
Lupe eventually gave up on her stalking game. Hard to stay hidden on such an open slope! As the American Dingo gained elevation, the sky above looked quite blue, but smoke marred the views in all directions, especially toward the W.
The terrain eventually began to steepen. Lupe came to firmer ground amid collections of rocks. For a while, big cumulus clouds boiling up E of the mountain caused some concern. SPHP kept an eye on them as Lupe continued higher.
Soon Mount Fairplay’s S ridge was directly ahead. This was the steepest part of the climb. Nothing to it, really. With many lanes of tundra to chose from, Lupe easily avoided most of the rocks.
Once the rate of climb started to diminish, the American Dingo could have angled NE more directly toward Mount Fairplay. Instead, Lupe stuck with tradition and kept climbing E onto the S ridge. This region was all a mix of fairly rocky terrain and thinner, much firmer tundra, which made progress significantly easier than down below.
Upon reaching the crest of the ridge, Mount Fairplay’s summit was less than 0.33 mile N. To the S, the broad ridge led to a rough rock formation Lupe had once explored after her 2018 ascent. Unfortunately, with such a late start, that bit of fun wasn’t going to be in the cards again today.
Of the slightly more than 2000 feet of elevation gain required to reach the top of Mount Fairplay, less than 300 feet remained. Even though this final ascent was the rockiest part of the entire trek, it wasn’t difficult at all. Faint use trails ran among the rocks, often following narrow lanes of tundra that existed even this far up the mountain.
For most of the climb, Lupe stayed toward the E edge of the slope. Once near the top, she entered the summit region from the SW, her traditional approach which had always seemed easiest.
6:54 PM, 66°F, Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) – Lupe stood atop a low wall of rock just N of the collection of towers and a metal shed near the S end of the rocky, but otherwise flat plain comprising the summit region. A white wooden pole jutted up from her back. This low wall, although not natural, had always seemed like the highest point despite a number of boulders near the E edge that were very close to the same elevation.
Great to be back on Mount Fairplay again, isn’t it, SPHP?
Sure is, Loopster! Congratulations on your 4th ascent here! Even though Mount Fairplay is just a big hill, I’ve always liked it ever since we first saw it way off in the distance back in 2017. From this angle, though, it looks like you’ve been skewered on a stick.
I suppose so, SPHP. What happened to the tower that used to be over by that pole?
Apparently someone removed it, Loop, but I have no idea why, or exactly what purpose it served in the first place.
After a glance at the smoky views to the SE, Lupe headed over to the white wooden pole. About a foot in diameter and 9 feet tall, it was firmly cemented into the ground.
Any idea what this is for, SPHP?
Uh, no. That’s even less clear than the reason the former tower was here, Loopster. The tower probably had something to do with communications or the weather.
Stumped by the tall, skinny stump then, SPHP?
You might say that. Have to admit that nothing that makes any sense comes to mind, Looper. Shall we go see if the Mount Fairplay survey marker is still over near the N end of the summit region?
Sure enough, the survey marker, a directional one pointing toward a benchmark that SPHP had never been able to find, was still there.
Near the survey marker was a view of distant hills and ridges to the N, smoky like in all other directions. The last time Lupe had been here in 2019, she’d gone down the mountain this way, a considerably longer route, but also leading to another fun exploration. Suddenly that day seemed simultaneously like only yesterday and a very long time ago.
The self-conflicted thought produced a wave of melancholy that swept over SPHP. Would have been nice to sit here along the N edge of the summit region pondering the view, but the air was dead calm.
About time for a chocolate coconut bar, isn’t it, SPHP?
Yup! But the bugs are kind of bad here. Let’s go over to the W edge where there’s more of a breeze, Looper. We’ll split one over there.
Midway along the W edge, a patch of tundra provided a soft spot where Lupe could lay down in comfort. The chocolate coconut bar, the only food SPHP had brought along, turned out to be half melted. After the sticky mess was consumed, Lupe eagerly licked soft chocolate off the empty wrapper as SPHP held it open for her.
The light breeze out of the W actually did help to some extent. The bugs weren’t as bad here. Sitting together, the long green slope the Carolina Dog had come up was in sight far below. Once familiar hills and long ridges to the W were only dimly seen in the distance as if in a dream, and higher mountains that should have been visible far to the SW were completely hidden in the murk.
Overhead, the big cumulus clouds that had been building up during the ascent had shriveled away and sailed off to the E, no longer posing even a theoretical threat. Once upon a time, a squirrel that had mysteriously found it’s way up here had eluded Lupe by scrambling to the top of a pole over by the towers at the S end of the summit region, but nothing stirred today.
As if sedated by chocolate, Lupe’s eyes grew heavy. She put her head down and closed them. SPHP wrapped the purple Columbia pullover around her so she could doze in comfort.
For a long time, SPHP sat there staring off into the haze while cradling Lupe’s head, stroking her soft fur and ears, and occasionally kissing her sweet nose, all the while speaking quietly of prior grand adventures both here at Mount Fairplay and elsewhere.
Had coming here been a mistake? The air quality seemed barely any better in Alaska than it had been back in the Yukon. Didn’t matter, the die was cast. The decision had been made. Lupe’s search for clear blue, or at least smoke-free, skies would continue. Whatever happened, being here on Mount Fairplay again was no mistake. Quite the contrary! This fleeting moment in time was both rare and precious. Best to relax and simply enjoy being here together again for as long as possible.
SPHP remembered the golden tundra, explorations in various directions, and brilliant fall colors of prior visits. On Lupe’s first night down along the Taylor Highway, an orange then yellow then white moon had come sneaking up over the S ridge in the middle of the night. For the first time ever, Lupe had seen an impressive display of the ghostly green aurora borealis dance among the stars.
8:21 PM – Gosh! Guess I dozed off, SPHP. What’s going on?
Oh, not too much, Loopster. Just been sitting here enjoying what can be seen of the views. You’ve had quite the snooze!
I had some of the most beautiful dreams, SPHP! Mount Fairplay is sort of a magical place, isn’t it?
Couldn’t agree more, Looper!
That Dingo nap did me some good. I’m feeling more energetic, SPHP. How much longer until our traditional summit hour is over?
Almost half an hour ago, Loop.
Half an hour ago? I must really have been zonked, SPHP. Guess it’s time to go, isn’t it?
Afraid so, sweet puppy. Before we depart, though, mind if we take a stroll around the perimeter of the summit region, just for a final look?
The Carolina Dog had no objections – wouldn’t take that long. In fact, Lupe seemed to enjoy her clockwise summit tour along the W edge back to the N end, then past the boulders along the E edge, and back to the towers near the S end as much as SPHP did.
8:37 PM – Lupe stood on a boulder mottled black, gray, green, and white in becoming fashion by various types of lichens. Beyond and below the American Dingo were the dark rock formation along Mount Fairplay’s S ridge, a vast open region of rolling hills, and the long green slope leading back to the highway.
Hate to say it, but I guess this is it for Mount Fairplay in 2023, Loopster. No telling how long it might be before we’re back here again, if ever. You ready to head down?
Mount Fairplay is awesome, and will always be a favorite place, but I am ready, SPHP.
The descent was a joyful, easy romp made exciting by the discovery of another caribou that Lupe detected long before SPHP did.
Near the end of what suddenly seemed a perfect day despite the smoke, an American Dingo still roamed happy and free across the verdant lower slopes of Mount Fairplay as a yellow orange sun sank toward the wild blue gray hills on the WNW horizon. (End 10:07 PM, 60ºF)
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track (ascent only)
Lost Chicken Hill & Mount Fairplay (8-19-19)
Mount Fairplay near Chicken, Alaska (8-25-18)
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.