Taylor Highway – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Lost Chicken Hill & Mount Fairplay, Alaska (8-19-19)

Day 15 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

2:31 AM, 30 ºF, Taylor Highway 0.5 mile SSW of Steele Creek Dome – Cold. And deathly quiet. Like a frozen zombie eye, a pale three-quarter moon stared down from space. A faint glow betrayed the sun’s position far to the N as it snuck along well below the horizon. Otherwise still a very dark night. Sniffing intensely, Lupe wove in and out among the bushes along the edge of the big dirt pullout.

10 minutes ago the Carolina Dog had suddenly burst into a frenzied barking spree. No sign out here now of whatever she’d detected. Might have been anything. SPHP never saw it. Perhaps best that whatever it was had vanished? As soon as the American Dingo calmed down a bit, SPHP persuaded her to retreat back into the G6.

9:23 AM, still SSW of Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.) – Ugh! Overslept! The sun had been up for hours! Hardly mattered. If the weather held, Lupe still had time enough to complete her adventures along the Taylor Highway today. SPHP straightened out the G6, and the American Dingo was on her way.

First stop was at the South Fork Wayside, right after crossing the bridge over the Forty Mile River. Lupe explored the forest looking for squirrels, while SPHP heated up a can of beef stew for brunch. The brown waters of the South Fork of the Forty Mile River were much lower than they had been a year ago. Loop waded in for a drink.

Near the **S Fork Wayside** picnic gazebo.

12:53 PM, 50 ºF, Mosquito Fork Dredge trailhead near Chicken, Alaska – The next stop offered a choice of adventures. A mile or two before reaching Chicken, SPHP parked the G6 at the Mosquito Fork Dredge trailhead. A nice-looking trail disappeared into the forest on its way to an overlook where an old gold mining dredge would be visible down on the Mosquito Fork of the Forty Mile River.

Truth is, peakbagging Carolina Dogs aren’t much into mining or dredges, and while forks are sometimes useful, SPHP isn’t keen on mosquitoes. Right across the Taylor Highway was a better option. Lupe could climb Lost Chicken Hill (2,150 ft.)!

Oh, let’s do that instead, SPHP! I’ll find that lost chicken! It’ll be wings and drumsticks for dinner tonight!

Heavily forested Lost Chicken Hill wasn’t much of a climb, a mere 80 feet of elevation gain or so from the trailhead, if that. Nevertheless, Lupe was enthused by the thought of hunting down that lost chicken. If she could also claim a trivial Alaskan peakbagging success as well, so much the better! After crossing the highway, she passed through a big opening carved into the S end of Lost Chicken Hill and headed up into the forest.

Starting for **Lost Chicken Hill** right across the Taylor Highway from the Mosquito Fork Dredge trailhead. Photo looks NE.

Loopster’s search for the lost chicken begins!

The dense forest was littered with small diameter deadfall, the forest floor thick with soft, spongy moss. Gently rounded Lost Chicken Hill was an easy climb. Before long, Lupe arrived at a large flat region that had to be the summit. The American Dingo prowled this way and that, but the lost chicken did not appear, and no single spot stood out as the absolute highest point.

*This seems to be about the top, but no sign of the lost chicken yet!*

Lupe sniffed and searched everywhere! She found bright red berries, she came to a variety of mushrooms and fungi, but the famous lost chicken was nowhere to be seen.

Red berries were common on Lost Chicken Hill.

Puzzling over which way the lost chicken might have gone.

I thought this would be a snap. How long has this chicken been missing, anyway, SPHP?

Not exactly sure, Looper. Probably since the gold rush days. 1880’s? 1890’s? Something like that.

So the chicken was here 130 years ago? No wonder I can’t pick up a scent!

Yeah, I’m really not that surprised, to tell you the truth.

The Carolina Dog pondered the situation.

The chicken can’t be too spry now, SPHP, but might have wandered quite a long way in 130 years. The trail is stone cold. Even if we find this chicken, it’s apt to be scrawny and tough. We should have gotten here sooner.

No doubt you’re right, Loop. Don’t worry about it. My bad. I shouldn’t have overslept.

With no chickens and no views, there didn’t seem to be much point in lingering up on Lost Chicken Hill. What the heck, Lupe had plenty of Alpo and Taste of the Wild to eat, anyway! Might as well return to the G6, and carry on. Even so, the Carolina Dog didn’t give up entirely. The whole way back she kept sniffing and exploring, just in case.

The only chickens she found, though, were the big metal ones stationed in the village of Chicken, when SPHP stopped for a quick look around.

*You can’t fool me, SPHP! These chickens aren’t even real!*

Lost Chicken Hill had been a fun romp, but only a warm-up exercise. The big prize of the day was still ahead – a favorite peak, one that Lupe had been to in both 2017 and 2018 – Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.)!

Lupe had seen Mount Fairplay on the horizon from Steele Creek Dome yesterday evening. Stopping briefly at the Mount Fairplay Wayside 30 miles S of Chicken, the mountain was now only a few miles away.

At the **Mount Fairplay Wayside**, MP 35 of the Taylor Highway.

**Mount Fairplay** (Center) from the wayside. Photo looks SE.

Mid-afternoon already, but a decent day. This was Lupe’s big chance to visit the top of Mount Fairplay for a third time. 2,000 feet of elevation gain from the highway, but a fun and easy climb.

3:06 PM, 50 ºF, Taylor Highway pullout at MP 32.8 – Quite a few clouds around, but patches of blue sky, too. Lupe crossed the Taylor Highway and started up an embankment on the other side. Experience gained during her prior ascents from this same starting point would come in handy now. The first goal was to get up on the lower end of the broad ridge leading SE toward the big saddle S of the summit.

**Mount Fairplay** (Center) from the pullout at Taylor Highway MP 32.8. Photo looks ESE.

The broad ridge wasn’t far from the highway, or much of a climb, but this first zone was full of small trees and dense stands of large bushes. Instead of heading E straight for the ridge as she had done before, Lupe angled NE (L) taking a slightly longer route hoping to avoid the worst of the bushes.

This manuever should have worked. The bushes weren’t nearly as bad this way. Less thrashing about for SPHP ought to have saved some time, but another obstacle presented itself. Blueberries! The slope leading up to the ridge was full of luscious, ripe, wild blueberries. No problem for the American Dingo, but SPHP was quickly hooked.

Are you coming, or not, SPHP? The bushes would have been faster! We’ll never get there at this pace!

Sorry, Loop, but wild blueberries are sooo scrumptious! Just a few more, and I’ll be right with you.

Inexplicably, a few more turned out to be quite a few more. Lots more, in fact, but Lupe finally did make it up onto the broad ridge. Although blueberries were up here, too, there weren’t as many. Overall there was far less vegetation. The long slope leading SE toward the big saddle was now in view.

Finally up on the lower part of the broad ridge. Photo looks WNW.

The long slope higher ahead. Photo looks SE.

Staying farther NE than during her prior ascents, Lupe headed for the big saddle more than a mile away. The slope gradually became rockier as she climbed.

Entering rockier terrain. Photo looks SE.

It was a little earlier in the year this time around. The tundra was just beginning to change to fall colors.

The tundra wasn’t quite as colorful yet as on Lupe’s earlier ascents.

Gazing along the **W flank of Mount Fairplay**. Photo looks SSW.

Typical appearance of the lichen-covered rocks.

Before Lupe reached the start of the steeper climb up to the big saddle, she came to a broad expanse of grassy tundra. In prior years, this area had been boggy, full of tiny trickling streams and numerous waterholes. Now, however, the ground was noticeably drier. Hardly any streams, and fewer waterholes. Lupe stayed on or near the rocks as long as she could before entering the wetlands.

Approaching the boggy region. Photo looks SE.

Near the end of the rocks. The saddle beyond Lupe is the pass between **HP5120** (L) and **Mount Fairplay’s summit** (R). Photo looks NE.

Close to a waterhole. **HP5120** (R of Center) in the background. Photo looks NNE.

With less sogginess to avoid, getting to the base of the steeper climb was easier than ever before. Here the terrain became rocky again. In short order, Loopster was scrambling higher.

*So far, so good! Gets quite a bit steeper from here on, though!*

After a good scramble, Loop reached an area with more vegetation again above the steepest part. She still hadn’t made it up to the big saddle SSW of the summit.

Near the end of the steepest section. Photo looks SSE.

Easier now, but still below the big saddle SSW of the summit. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe never did get to the big saddle. Instead, the Carolina Dog turned NE heading almost directly for the summit. This was a steeper, shorter route than she’d ever taken before. Lanes of tundra provided paths of least resistance between rivers of rock.

Heading for the summit (L). Photo looks NE.

Glancing back at the big saddle on the S ridge after bypassing it. Photo looks S.

The final climb was rocky and moderately steep. Following faint paths, it wasn’t long before Lupe was approaching the summit.

Still a little way to go. Photo looks NNE.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks N.

Towers, sheds, and wires came into view. Moments later, Lupe was among them. A big brown shed was close to where she’d come up. Loop headed for a small wall of rock a bit NE of it. This little rock wall still looked like the marginally highest point on the mountain.

The towers on **Mount Fairplay** come into sight. Photo looks NNE.

3rd annual appearance at the **true summit of Mount Fairplay**! Photo looks NW.

The top of Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) looked pretty much the same as before. The same towers and sheds were grouped near the S end and along the W side of the big, rough, but otherwise almost flat summit area. However, there was one important difference. Lupe was sad to learn that the very entertaining squirrel that had been up here in 2018 was gone! Not completely unexpected. What had possessed a squirrel to traipse all the way up here more than 1,500 feet above any tree or bush had always been a mystery in the first place.

The entire summit was roughly 300 feet long N/S and 100 feet wide E/W. Lupe’s reconnaissance started with the big rocks at the S end.

Looking down the S ridge. Photo looks SSW.

Near the E edge still looking down the S ridge. Photo looks SSW.

Same spot, but showing more of the S end of the summit region. Photo looks SW.

After enjoying the views to the S, Loop headed N along the E edge. She got all the way to the N end, and again found the survey marker where SPHP had first learned the name of this mountain back in 2017.

At the survey marker near the N end of the summit region.

An arrow on Survey marker No. 2 pointed S toward a wall of loose rock partially enclosing a shallow human-created depression several feet in diameter. Going over for her annual check, Lupe still did not see any other survey marker, in or out of the pit. Survey marker No. 2 was the only one she had ever found on Mount Fairplay, and that’s the way things stayed.

On the rough circular wall by the pit (L of Lupe) survey marker No. 2 points toward. Photo looks SSW.

Time for a break. At the N end, not far from survey marker No. 2, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap. The sky had clouded up completely, a nearly uniform indistinct gray, long before the Carolina Dog had reached the summit. Evening now, and quite cool, about 40 ºF with a 5-10 mph breeze out of the SW.

The clouds were fairly high, but the air below was hazy. Looking down Mount Fairplay’s broad N slope, rows of yellow-brown hills and ridges faded into oblivion. The American Dingo could see for miles, but not sharply, details concealed by the horizon-devouring haze.

Gazing down **Mount Fairplay’s N slope**. Photo looks N.

Three ascents of this overgrown E Alaska hill! Hard to believe it, but Loopster really was back. It all seemed so familiar, yet still incredibly remote. The scene was duller, more somber and serious than before. Not even that peakbagging squirrel to break the solitude. Refuge in the sky, Mount Fairplay stood besieged by a vast, empty unknown.

Lupe got hungry. Taste of the Wild was provided. Ahh, so much better! Energy came surging back. The were-puppy appeared, growling and threatening, and succeeded in snatching away SPHP’s glove.

The glove-snatching were-puppy of Mount Fairplay.

Hey, give that back!

Keep-away is a delightful game, one the were-puppy knew it would win. Not until SPHP was sufficiently humiliated did the glove lose its strange fascination. Abandoned among the rocks, SPHP finally retrieved it.

Well, thank you so much! Since you’re so perky, why don’t we take a stroll around the whole summit?

The were-puppy was fine with that.

The Taylor Highway from the W edge. The gently rounded yellow slope seen beyond Lupe is the broad ridge she had come up from R to L. Photo looks W.

View to the NW. The closest hill is **HP5120** (R of Center).

In the area that was Lupe’s approach to the summit. Photo looks SW.

At the S end again overlooking the big saddle along the S ridge. Photo looks SSW.

After a leisurely counter-clockwise circumnavigation, Lupe was back where she’d started. SPHP proposed lingering a while longer at the NW end. A bit gloomy up here, but Mount Fairplay was so fabulous! The weather wasn’t threatening, and the sun, though sinking, still gleamed among the clouds.

The summit as seen from the NW end. Photo looks S.

What are you staring at, SPHP? You going to stand there forever?

No. It’s just incredible to be here again, Loop. Enjoying, that’s all.

Still enough daylight to try something different, if we get on with it, isn’t there?

Maybe, what do you have in mind?

Let’s go down the N slope this time. Looks easy enough, and we’ve never been that way before.

*Come on! Let’s try the N slope!* Photo looks NNE.

Last year, Lupe had explored part of the S ridge beyond the big saddle on what turned out to be a gorgeous evening spent roaming the blazing, brilliant tundra. Wasn’t going to be like that today, but the Carolina Dog was right. Although longer than going back the way she had come up, the N slope appeared perfectly feasible. Ought to be able to reach the highway before dark. Why not?

I like it! Go for it, Looper. I’ll be right behind you!

An hour and twenty minutes after reaching the top of Mount Fairplay, Lupe charged far down the N slope, greatly outdistancing SPHP. She soon dashed back to encourage SPHP to hurry. Some places it was rocky enough to slow things down quite a bit, but most of the way even SPHP set a fairly lively pace on the long downhill trek.

Exploring a new route took some of the sadness out of leaving Mount Fairplay behind.

Already partway down the N slope, Lupe returns to check on SPHP. Photo looks NNE.

Overlooking the **saddle region** (Center) between **HP5120** (straight up from Lupe’s head), and **Mount Fairplay’s N ridge** (R). Photo looks N.

0.33 mile down the N ridge, Lupe turned NW descending into the broad saddle region leading to subpeak HP5120. The saddle proved boggy, so she crossed it at the highest, driest part along the NE edge.

A glance back up the N ridge during the descent. Photo looks S.

About to drop down to the saddle leading to **HP5120** on the other side. Lupe crossed this saddle at far R, then traveled along the base of **HP5120** aiming for the little pass seen on the L. Photo looks NW.

**Mount Fairplay** from the saddle. Photo looks SSE.

Once across the saddle, it wouldn’t have been too difficult to go right up and over HP5120, but doing that seemed an unnecessary expenditure of precious energy. Instead, Looper turned SW along the base of HP5120, angling slowly higher toward a minor pass.

In the small pass at the S end of **HP5120**. **Mount Fairplay** (L). Photo looks S.

Going through the pass, Lupe came to a steep, scree-covered slope. The small rocks were loose, and often gave way underpaw. A series of faint animal trails provided better support.

Traversing the **W slope of HP5120**. Photo looks NW.

The animal trails were fun to follow, and got Lupe all the way around HP5120 down to a lower part of Mount Fairplay’s NW ridge. Ahead, a long level stretch led to a much smaller hill. Approaching the top, a pole came into view. Lupe soon reached a small solar-powered installation, perhaps a weather station?

The solar-powered station on the NW ridge. A little slice of **Mount Fairplay’s summit** (straight up from Lupe) peeks up from behind **HP5120** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

All downhill from here! From the solar-powered station, the NW ridge sloped steadily down to the Taylor Highway. Still quite a trek, but an easy one practically all the way.

Looking down the NW ridge from close to the solar-powered station. Photo looks NW.

The big, rounded ridges of **Mount Fairplay’s W slopes**. Lupe had gone up the next one over. Photo looks SSW.

**Solar station hill** (L), **HP5120** (Center), **Mount Fairplay summit** (R of Center). Photo looks SE.

**Mount Fairplay** (L of Center) from well down the NW ridge. Photo looks SE.

The only tricky part came at the end. Leaving the NW ridge, the terrain steepened as Lupe turned W searching for a way down through forest and dense bushes.

It all worked out! Without getting SPHP too tangled in vegetation, Lupe managed to reach the Taylor Highway. Only an easy 0.5 mile stroll back to the G6 remained.

As she trotted along, the sky was clearing off to the N. Two years ago, the Carolina Dog had seen the Northern Lights for the first time from the pullout at MP 32.8 W of Mount Fairplay where she’d be staying tonight. Maybe she’d get lucky again! (End 9:38 PM, 44 ºF)

**Mount Fairplay**, Alaska from the Taylor Highway after Lupe’s 3rd ascent, 8-19-19

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Mount Fairplay near Chicken, Alaska (8-25-18)

Mount Fairplay & Chicken, Alaska to the Top of the World Highway & Dawson City, Yukon Territory (9-2-17 & 9-3-17)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Ditching the Dempster & Doing Domes, Yukon Territory & Alaska (8-18-19)

Day 14 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-17-19, 10:05 PM, 32 ºF snowing hard, Arctic Circle, Yukon Territory –

So since when does a 60% chance of precipitation mean hours and hours of rain followed by a blizzard?

This is the Arctic Circle, SPHP, you have to be ready for anything!

Evidently. You realize, Looper, that if it keeps snowing like this tonight, we are going to be stuck here for who knows how long?

It snowed here for a little while in the evening last year, too, SPHP. Remember? It all turned to rain, though, and by noon the next day we were able to keep going.

Yeah, we lucked out, but this time we know that the forecast is for more of the same for the next 3 days. Any significant accumulation tonight means the G6 isn’t getting over Wright Pass tomorrow. If we can’t do that, there goes the plan to blow a few days going to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk again while waiting for conditions to improve in the Richardson Mountains.

Well, let’s see how things look in the morning.

Loop, I’d love to, but we can’t wait. The snow is forcing our paw. Have to decide now. Might already be too late to escape, if it keeps snowing like this. Want to stay and risk getting stuck here in a snowbank for days, or at least try to flee S?

That’s what you want to do, SPHP? Flee S?

Hate to, but our gamble hasn’t paid off. Not looking like the Arctic Ocean or any peaks in the Richardsons are in the cards. If we’d just gotten some rain, that would be one thing – we could hang in here a while yet, but the weather’s been getting worse and worse. Even if it stops snowing down here, the mountains are already blanketed with snow. Won’t even start to melt for at least 4 days.

A mere two hours after arriving at the Arctic Circle, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood faced the humiliation of having to retreat. None of her 2019 arctic adventures so long in the works were going to happen. At least the American Dingo had made it to the true arctic for a 4th year in a row, which was some minor consolation.

The G6 sprang to life, crept back onto the Dempster Highway, and began jolting and sloshing S. Lupe had ended up fleeing the true arctic in 2018, too. She’d actually made it to the Arctic Ocean, but a blizzard with high winds had threatened on the return trip S. A repeat performance was now underway.

Pitch dark out! The snow was flying when Lupe went past the Eagle Plains hotel again. Foolishly, SPHP didn’t stop. Already knew there was no room at the inn for Dingoes tonight, but should have at least topped off the gas tank. Only down a couple of gallons, but they might postpone a true emergency for a little while.

Virtually no traffic. Snow started accumulating on the road. Like last year, another tense hours-long drive, but the G6 kept crawling forward. Relief every time the top of a hill was reached. Visibility was horrid, but at least it wasn’t snowing as hard as back at the Arctic Circle.

In blinding snow, SPHP completely missed the huge Ogilvie Ridge turnout, but was suddenly aware that the G6 must already be headed down Seven Mile Hill. 35 ºF! Like last year, the Ogilvie River valley was a little warmer. The snow turned to rain, the road merely wet. Saved! Another harrowing escape! Weary, SPHP found a spot to park for the night. 8-18-19, 2:09 AM.

8-18-19, 7:42 AM – Saved? Morning’s first glance was alarming! Close to the G6, the Ogilvie River was tremendously swollen, coming within only a few feet of overflowing onto the Dempster Highway. Could have been swept away in the night! The thought was horrifying.

Lupe at road level next to the swollen **Ogilvie River**, which had risen tremendously overnight. About km 221 of the Dempster Highway.

Perhaps Lupe’s great escape was only partially successful? Snowing hard down here now, too. Fortunately not quite cold enough to stick. The Carolina Dog still had to get over Windy Pass. Might not be possible.

Less than a mile farther S, the Dempster Highway was reassuringly higher versus the river compared to where Lupe had spent the night.

8-18-19, 8:48 AM, 33 ºF, Engineer Creek, km 179 – The news was better than expected. The sky was lighter. Barely snowing now, and only a good dusting on the Ogilvie Mountains. A couple of vehicles had been by heading N, one a mere sedan like the G6. Apparently it was possible to get over Windy Pass.

By **Engineer Creek**, km 179. Photo looks S.

Did we do the right thing, Loopster?

What kind of a question is that, SPHP? You were the one in such a panic to retreat.

I know, but I wonder what really happened at the Arctic Circle last night? How much snow actually fell? Not that much down here.

Who knows? Seemed to be plenty of snow accumulating when we left. We’re a long way from the Arctic Circle now, SPHP. Don’t tell me you’re thinking of going back after all this! Are you crazy?

No, we’re still heading S. The prognosis wasn’t good, even if we didn’t get snowed in. Want to know something strange, though?

Do I have a choice?

Nope. Now that we are safely away, I sort of miss the intensity of facing the unknown.

That’s the adventurer in you, SPHP!

You really think so, Loop? Thank you!

Yes. And last night we saw the big chicken in you.

Hey! It was a logical decision.

Maybe. We’ll never know now how it would have turned out. So what’s the new plan, anyway, SPHP?

New plan? We’re going to complete our long joy ride, then ditch the Dempster Highway. Not going to hang around for days waiting for sunshine and warmer temps. Once we’re back to the N. Klondike Highway, we’ll turn W to Dawson City, take the free ferry across the Yukon River, and head for Alaska! Maybe you’ll get a chance to hit a couple of domes we missed out on last year?

Oh, I hope so! The scenery here has been magnificent, but I’m ready to get out and do something!

The road trip S resumed, with short stops here and there. Windy Pass looked and felt wintery, but the few snowflakes still flying were tiny. A little slush on the road presented no problem. By the time Lupe was back at the Blackstone River, the precipitation was all over and done with. Just a chilly, gray day.

Winter in mid-August at **Windy Pass**, km 152. Photo looks S.

Just enough snow had fallen along in here to beautify and highlight the rugged features of the mountains. Yes, yes, very lovely, but what really got Lupe excited was a moose dashing across the Dempster Highway!

The resulting barkfest was sweet, but disappointingly short. However, hopes for more action were soon raised. Lupe had seen only one moose, and when Two Moose Lake proved to be only a little farther down the road, she insisted on stopping.

That other moose ought to be around here somewhere! All senses on alert, Lupe patrolled the highway near Two Moose Lake, but stealth moose No. 2 was craftier than moose No. 1, remaining undetectable.

*Alright! Come on, SPHP! Moose No. 2 must be somewhere around here.* Photo looks NNE.

A brisk patrol of the Dempster Highway near **Two Moose Lake**. Photo looks S.

**Two Moose Lake** and the **Ogilvie Mountains**. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Two white swans took off from Two Moose Lake and flew away. No other movement. Disappointing and inexplicable. Oh, well. Back to the G6!

Another stop at the bubbly pond was a must! After that, shorter breaks to enjoy the snow-clad mountains on the way to North Fork Pass.

Back at the bubbly pond (km 95), a favorite Lupe hideout. Photo looks E.

An enticing unnamed peak. Photo looks SE.

Another look with help from the telephoto lens.

On the way to North Fork Pass, Tombstone Territorial Park. Photo looks SE.

8-18-19, 11:32 AM, 32 ºF, Tombstone Territorial Park – 24 hours after leaving the N Klondike River overlook, Lupe was back. Still overcast, and the temperature hadn’t budged a single degree off freezing, but visibility was a little better. This time Loop thought she could make out Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) at the far end of the valley.

**N Klondike River valley** (km 74). Photo looks SW.

**Tombstone Mountain** was faintly visible at the far end of the valley. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

8-18-19, 1:13 PM, 48 ºF, parking area at km 26 – Before ditching the Dempster entirely, SPHP stopped once more at the parking area where Lupe had woken up yesterday morning. Such a difference now that she was down out of the Ogilvie Mountains! Sunny and comfortably warm. While SPHP made lunch, the Carolina Dog even sought shade among the bushes.

*If the Arctic Circle had been like this, I would already be on top of **Peak 3850** in the Richardson Mountains!*

The whole jaunt up the Dempster Highway to the Arctic Circle had been more or less a fiasco, but had taken only 1.5 days. The American Dingo hadn’t gotten to climb a single peak, or even make an attempt on one, yet it had still been a ton of fun seeing all the gorgeous scenery again while clinging to a doomed hope for peakbagging success.

On the bright side, success was practically guaranteed now! The next peak on Lupe’s list of possible objectives was one she’d been to before. An easy drive-up, with a grand view of the fabled Yukon River! Half an hour after lunch, SPHP turned W on the N Klondike Highway. Loopster’s unproductive adventures along the Dempster Highway were over.

8-18-19, 3:55 PM, 50 ºF, Midnight Dome by Dawson City – So what if Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.) was a drive-up? Being on top of a mountain again felt great! No weather worries here! Lupe basked in sunshine. Throngs of people were coming and going, at least by Yukon Territory standards. And why not? A beautiful summer day, super easy access, and a splendid view overlooking Dawson City of Klondike Gold Rush fame along the mighty Yukon River.

*There’s **Dawson City** and the **Yukon River**! A shame we’re 123 years too late for the start of the Klondike Gold Rush!* Photo looks SW.

*I only climbed 20 feet to get to this rock, but it’s still the top of a mountain, and look at that view of the **Yukon River**!* Photo looks NNW.

**Yukon River**. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Let it snow up at the Arctic Circle! Conditions were so much better down here. Midnight Dome only served to inspire the desire for more action. Still time enough left for it today, too! After leaving Midnight Dome, the American Dingo didn’t dawdle in Dawson City. Instead, she went straight to the free ferry, took it across the Yukon River, and set off on the Top of the World Highway.

Heading for Alaska on the Top of the World Highway.

104 km (64 miles) to Alaska! Lupe saw Cassiar Dome (4,450 ft.) and went right by Swede Dome (4,150 ft.) on the way, both of which she had climbed on a rainy day only a year ago. Would have been fun to climb them again, but the Carolina Dog had unfinished dome business to take care of in Alaska, and today was the day to do it!

2 km from the border, the Top of the World Highway curved over a ridge where a large parking area was on the S side of the road. Last chance to get out and enjoy the Yukon before crossing into Alaska!

2 km from the Alaska border about to leave the fabulous Yukon Territory. Photo looks S.

US and Canadian customs were already in sight. Lupe crossed over to the N side of the Top of the World Highway, where a small hill with a huge cairn provided a great view of the border.

Still in the Yukon, but with Alaska in sight! Photo looks NW.

**US/Canadian customs** from the Yukon side of the border. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Crossing the border, Loop gained an hour. On Alaska time now!

8-18-19, 5:41 PM, 41 ºF, 1.5 miles into Alaska – Shortly after breezing through US customs, SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout on the N side of the Top of the World Highway. Out leapt the wily and ferocious were-puppy, totally excited about finally getting a chance to burn off excess energy! After the usual dastardly assault on SPHP, the were-puppy charged up Davis Dome (4,124 ft.).

The were-puppy threatens SPHP shortly after entering Alaska. **Davis Dome** in the background. Photo looks SW.

From the pullout, Davis Dome was just a big rounded hill. Only 275 feet of elevation gain, so no sweat. Yet when Lupe had been here last year, persistent cold rain and dense fog had prevented even an attempt. Not going to be denied this time! Before long the were-puppy reached the top of a spacious plateau. Near the the marginally higher N edge, a loosely constructed cairn marked what passed for the true summit.

At the top of **Davis Dome**. Note the survey benchmark near the base of the cairn straight below Lupe’s rear leg. Photo looks N.

Off to the N, an enormous expanse of lower hills and long ridges extended toward higher peaks visible near the horizon. On the S side of the cairn, a survey marker was attached to a flat rock. Disappointingly, it was not stamped “Walker” as shown on the topo map. However, a short distance to the E another marker with an arrow pointing toward the cairn was.

Survey benchmark at the base of the cairn.

The bronze mushroom near Looper’s front paws is actually the survey marker with the arrow. Photo looks WNW.

The summit plateau was elongated toward the SW. Close to the S edge stood a green thingamajig. Since a 20 mph N wind was making hanging out by the cairn near the N edge a chilly proposition, Lupe headed S to check out the thingamajig.

**Davis Dome summit plateau**. Photo looks SSW.

The thingamajig had a door partway up the E side, and was fastened to Davis Dome by guy wires. It didn’t look very aerodynamic, but maybe if Loop got inside and SPHP released the guy wires, the thingamajig would launch into space and take her to the Land of Oz?

Checking out the Davis Dome thingamajig. Photo looks SW.

The Carolina Dog wasn’t convinced. At any rate, she preferred Alaska to adventures in Oz, especially if SPHP wasn’t coming with. Instead of launching into space, she continued her exploration of the Davis Dome summit plateau, going clear to the SW end before exploring the W edge.

Near the **SW end of the summit plateau**. The cairn is just visible on the L. US and Canadian customs (R) are seen just L of the thingamajig (far R). Photo looks NE.

The views were similar. Unspoiled hills and ridges as far as the Dingo could see, but no dramatic peaks. Lupe returned briefly to the summit cairn before heading back to the G6. (6:22 PM)

The G6 waits down at the pullout next to the Top of the World Highway. US and Canadian Customs at the Alaska/Yukon border (Center). Photo looks NE.

US and Canadian Customs from Davis Dome with help from the telephoto lens.

Getting on toward evening, but Lupe still had time for one more dome! The Top of the World Highway was beautifully paved for 14 miles from the Canadian border to a junction with the Taylor Highway (Hwy No. 5) at Jack Wade where SPHP turned N (R).

Following the Taylor Highway 65 miles all the way to its end would have brought the Carolina Dog to the Yukon River again at Eagle, but after only 3 miles SPHP parked on a saddle at a large dirt lot on the SW (L) side of the road.

8-18-19, 6:58 PM, 38 ºF, Taylor Highway 3 miles N of Jack Wade – From here, the topo map showed some sort of a route going 0.5 mile NNE up Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.). Crossing the highway, Lupe searched for signs of a path up a slope thick with bushes and stunted trees. She soon discovered an old, deeply rutted jeep or ATV trail. No markings, but this had to be it.

**Steele Creek Dome** from the parking area along the Taylor Highway. Photo looks NE.

Starting up the badly eroded ATV trail. Photo looks NE.

Like Davis Dome, Steele Creek Dome was just another big rounded hill. However, with 500 feet of elevation gain required, climbing Steele Creek Dome would take nearly twice as much effort. The ATV trail made the trek an easy one, except for one spot where it headed straight into a bog. Following a side trail, Lupe circled around the L side of the boggy area, and was soon able to rejoin the main route higher.

About halfway up, the trees and even the bushes began to thin out. The top of the dome didn’t look an awful lot farther.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks NE.

Steele Creek Dome’s summit was a much smaller region than the big plateau at Davis Dome. Lupe arrived at the W end of a rounded ridge. She was close to a loose cairn of white rocks. At the opposite end of the short ridge, a much larger cairn sat on a little high point.

At the top of **Steele Creek Dome**. Photo looks ENE.

Midway between the two cairns was another high spot unadorned by anything except a cluster of small rocks. The cluster seemed about as high as where the big cairn was, so Lupe paused here, before continuing on to the big cairn.

At the cluster high point between the 2 cairns. Photo looks E.

**Steele Creek Dome**. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Seemed like Davis Dome ought to be visible off to the SE, but which hill was it? Hard to say. Maybe it really wasn’t in sight? SPHP was unable to make positive identification.

Big hills and ridges in all directions. 35 ºF. The N wind was only 15 mph now, but the chill breeze combined with the 360 degree panorama and sinking sun heightened a sense of loneliness and extreme remoteness. The Taylor Highway stretching off into the distance was the only sign of civilization. Even it appeared to be completely abandoned.

The Taylor Highway winds off toward Jack Wade junction. The G6 is parked down where the road appears to end toward the R. Photo looks SSW.

Another 62 miles from here to the end of the Taylor Highway at Eagle on the Yukon River. Lupe never went this way. Photo looks WNW.

Staring far to the SW, SPHP suddenly realized that Lupe had been to the highest peak faintly visible on the horizon. Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.), a favorite spot! The American Dingo had climbed it twice. Tomorrow Lupe would be going right by Mount Fairplay again. If the weather held, maybe she could make a 3rd ascent?

Something to look forward to. Mount Fairplay was awesome! Still just another big hill, but a really big one. Over 2,000 feet of elevation gain from the highway, and 3,000 feet of prominence.

**Mount Fairplay** (Center) from **Steele Creek Dome**. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Seemed like a long time since way back at the swollen Ogilvie River this morning. Getting late enough so that Lupe didn’t linger long on remote Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.).

Final moments on Steele Creek Dome. Photo looks NE.

*3 domes in one day! That’s pretty good, isn’t it?*

On the way down, SPHP became engaged in scarfing up luscious, ripe wild blueberries. The exasperated were-puppy reappeared. Twice! The were-puppy’s insistent threats finally persuaded SPHP to move along at a more lively pace. (End 8:02 PM)

8-18-19, 9:02 PM, 37 ºF, Taylor Highway SSW of Steele Creek Dome – The G6 was pointed NW. After a dinner of pink salmon and Alpo, a sleepy Carolina Dog munched happily on a rawhide stick. Outside, the sky was almost totally clear. Might be a cold night! So quiet here. Sunset in 20 or 30 minutes.

Perfectly positioned for it, but the sunset never really developed. A golden orb hovered briefly on the horizon, then slipped and was gone.

*So that’s it from Steele Creek Dome! We’re just getting started in Alaska, though. Hope you join me again for more Dingo Adventures real soon!*

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Doing Domes – The Top of the World Highway from Dawson City to the Alaska border, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-24-18)

Mount Fairplay near Chicken, Alaska (8-25-18)

Day 22 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

9:11 AM, 38°F – Fog and light mist! So, what else was new? The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was leaving the Yukon, and heading for Alaska! The border was only a couple of km W, and ought to be open by now. A vehicle heading E on the Top of the World Highway confirmed it. Someone had made it through. Onward!

9:52 AM, 39°F – Lupe had made it into Alaska! She’d breezed right on through customs, but hadn’t gone much farther. The plan was to keep doing domes today. In this weather, Loop seemed destined to continue yesterday’s foggy, soggy doggie escapades along the Top of the World Highway. The G6 was parked only a short distance NE of Davis Dome (4,124 ft.), a mere mile or two W of customs.

However, the doing domes plan was off to a poor start. Davis Dome ought to have been an easy climb. The summit was only 0.25 mile away, and something like 300 feet higher, a situation similar to the one at Swede Dome (4,150 ft.) yesterday, but no sooner had Lupe reached the pullout near Davis Dome than the light mist turned to constant rain. The fog was so thick, not even the closest part of Davis Dome was in sight.

Mist was one thing, rain and dense fog was another. No sense in getting totally soaking wet to start off the day, just to see nothing at all. Lupe and SPHP waited for a while, but the rain wouldn’t quit, and Davis Dome didn’t appear. May as well forget it, and move on! However, conditions were the same when Lupe reached Jack Wade Junction S of Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.). This time she didn’t wait around.

12:59 PM, 45°F – After crossing a bridge over the South Fork of the Fortymile River, SPHP turned into a rest area on the R (N) where there were a few picnic tables. Not foggy down here, and the rain had finally ended a couple of miles back. Lupe and SPHP took a short walk along the river. The South Fork was brown with sediment and running high. Hardly surprising, considering how seldom Loop had seen the sun on this Dingo Vacation.

The South Fork of the Fortymile River is 6 or 7 miles E of Chicken, Alaska.

SPHP prepared a quick lunch at one of the picnic tables. Looper’s joy at being released from the G6 turned to ecstasy upon discovering a squirrel in a nearby tree. Lunch became a shrill, noisy event.

Although doing domes had been at least a partial success yesterday, the domes had been a complete flop this morning. Lupe was beyond them now. The weather had finally improved, though. Loop could go back to see if conditions had changed back at the domes, but that didn’t make much sense. If it was going to turn into a decent day, she had a much better option ahead. Chicken, Alaska was only 6 or 7 miles farther, and 34 miles S of Chicken a fabulous peak was right along the highway.

Lupe and SPHP had discovered Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) entirely by accident while coming the opposite direction in 2017. First seen from afar, Mount Fairplay looked like merely a barren hill, but a very high one sitting off by itself in grand isolation. Unaware of its existence prior to catching sight of it, SPHP had been instantly impressed. Lupe could climb that! And the American Dingo had, too, when it turned out that the Taylor Highway (Hwy 5) went right by it.

With over 3,000 feet of prominence, Mount Fairplay is the dominant high point of a large region. The climb from a highway pullout W of the summit involves a tad more than 2,000 feet of elevation gain. No trail, but the trek isn’t particularly difficult, not even much of a scramble. Lupe had such a good time last year, and the whole experience had been so magnificent, that a return to Mount Fairplay was high on the wish list for this Dingo Vacation.

1:41 PM, 50°F, Chicken, Alaska – Loop had been reluctant to leave the wonderful squirrel back at the South Fork of the Fortymile River, but SPHP had left her little choice. The promised chickens at Chicken, Alaska were big and colorful enough, but in the Carolina Dog’s opinion completely lacking in the feisty pizazz that the squirrel had exhibited.

Chicken, Alaska at MP 66.9 of the Taylor Highway, is about the only place to get fuel or supplies between the Alaska Highway SE of Tok, Alaska and Dawson City in the Yukon.

*Chickens are fine, I suppose, but I’d rather be at Squirrel, Alaska.*

The sky was still overcast. The ground was wet here, indicating it had rained recently (of course), sadly dampening SPHP’s expectations for Mount Fairplay. Nevertheless, after checking out the chickens, Lupe hit the road again.

2:40 PM, 46°F – Fantastic! Not a drop of rain on the way from Chicken to the pullout just S of MP 33 along the Taylor Highway. In fact, although the summit of Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) was in the clouds as Lupe set out, a fair amount of blue sky elsewhere was quite encouraging.

The first task was to get through a large zone of tall bushes on the slope immediately E of the highway. Lupe had a great time exploring, while SPHP thrashed around looking for the easiest route up onto a broad, open ridge above.

The bushes were wet. So were Loop and SPHP by the time open terrain was reached. At least there was some sunshine to help dry off a bit.

On the ridge above the bushes. Thoroughly soaked, but in sunshine and high spirits!

Approaching the tundra-covered part of the ridge. **Mount Fairplay** (L) in the clouds. Photo looks SE.

Once up on the open terrain, Lupe turned SE following the broad ridge higher. This ridge is the longest part of the journey up Mount Fairplay. At first, spongy tundra, low bushes, and scattered rocks predominated. Lupe already had some great views, but was having way to much fun roaming and sniffing to pay them any attention.

On the way up the lower portion of the broad ridge. Lupe would head toward the L side of the high saddle beyond her. The summit of Mount Fairplay (Center) is nearly out of the clouds now. Photo looks SE.

Above the bushes with beautiful views. Photo looks S.

For a while, the summit of Mount Fairplay basked in sunshine. Lupe made steady progress up the long slope, which slowly steepened. The tundra was gorgeous and optimism prevailed.

For a while, **Mount Fairplay** basked in sunshine. Photo looks SE.

As Lupe gained elevation, she started coming to channels full of dark rocks encrusted with pale green lichens. The rocks were a jumble, but at times SPHP could make better progress on the rocks than trying to deal with the soft tundra.

Channels of dark rocks appeared with increasing frequency. Photo looks SSE.

The tundra was somewhat boggy the entire way up the long slope. Near the start of the steeper climb up to the saddle S of the summit, the tundra actually became wetter. Streams trickled among the vegetation. Lupe came to holes full of water. Choosing routes carefully, SPHP tried to avoid the wettest areas.

Getting close to the start of the steeper climb. Photo looks ENE.

Loop in one of many waterholes hidden in the tundra.

After traveling the long slope, the next phase of the journey was an ascent of the saddle ridge beyond Lupe. Photo looks E.

Once Lupe reached the rocks at the base of the huge saddle ridge, she was beyond all the wetlands. The climb became considerably steeper now. The Carolina Dog scrambled up rock-strewn slopes. She followed lanes of vegetation. The higher she went, the sparser and drabber the vegetation became, but the tundra never disappeared entirely.

*Hey look, SPHP! We’re almost to the saddle already. ….. Uh, not really, Looper. It’s a false summit. Still a long way to go yet!*

The views kept improving. Photo looks SW.

Higher up, it was a much rockier world. The tundra became drier, drabber, and sparse. Photo looks NE.

The saddle S of the summit was another broad ridge, mostly rocky and fairly flat. At the S end sat a prominent rock formation. Lupe turned N toward the summit. The final climb was no more difficult than getting up onto the saddle had been. Soon Lupe was nearing the same towers she had seen on Mount Fairplay in 2017.

**Mount Fairplay’s S ridge**. This is the saddle that Lupe had been climbing toward. Photo looks SSW.

To SPHP, it seemed sort of incredible that Lupe had actually returned to the summit of Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.), yet here she was again! The mountain had become an old friend. The summit was just as it had been a year ago, an oblong shaped area covered with dark rock, towers, and associated equipment.

At first, it was often sunny, but chilly, with a W wind driving clouds and showers this way. SPHP layered up, and even put on gloves. Ignoring the approaching clouds for the time being, Lupe and SPHP took a tour of the summit area. The entire summit was several hundred feet long, and no more than half as wide.

On the highest rocks, which were toward the S end. Photo looks NNW.

Most of the S half of the summit. Photo looks S.

This survey benchmark is toward the N end of the summit area. SPHP hadn’t even known the name of the mountain until Lupe came across this benchmark during her first ascent in 2017.

Looking ENE with help from the telephoto lens, A bit of rainbow is on the R.

Sniffing along the SE edge. Photo looks SSW.

SPHP was amazed again by these fabulous views, yet increasingly leery of a line of showers still approaching from the W. Blue sky could always be seen, but sunshine disappeared. Mount Fairplay was in shadow, as a parade of large clouds began sailing overhead.

Meanwhile, having completed her tour of the summit area, Lupe was sniffing her way back toward the shed and towers near the S end, when an electrifying, unmistakable sound reached her big soft Dingo ears.

A squirrel!

What? Unbelievable! Not a tree within a mile in any direction. What on earth would a squirrel be doing way up here?

Perhaps it was a peakbagging squirrel? It was certainly a great climber, but then again, most squirrels are. Furthermore, this particular squirrel had tremendous incentive. Lupe was off like a shot after it, but the squirrel, which never should have broken radio silence, raced to the safety of the top of a skinny pole, and refused to budge from then on.

Lupe was beside herself, first with joy, then with frustration. She sniffed all around a metal shed and nearby towers. Where on earth had that squirrel disappeared to? The squirrel couldn’t keep a secret, and soon gave its position away.

Aha! Way up there, aye?

Searching for the Mount Fairplay peakbagging squirrel. It’s at the top of the tall pole (Center) near Lupe. Photo looks S.

A squirrel on Mount Fairplay? Why? How? Maybe it was nuts, instead of looking for them? Wasn’t crazy enough to come down, though.

The rest of her nearly hour long stay on Mount Fairplay, Lupe remained entranced by and preoccupied with that dang squirrel. The Carolina Dog was still willing to pose for a photo or two, but once they were taken, she invariably went immediately back to trying to solve the problem of how to get at the squirrel.

Time and again, Lupe circled the pole, all the nearby towers, and sniffed around the shed. She attacked a step ladder leaning against the shed, to no effect. That squirrel at least had sense enough to stay put. It wasn’t going anywhere. Fine! Lupe eventually laid down to wait it out.

*I see you now! I know you’re up there! Why don’t you come down? We can play a game! How about a round of **Predator & Prey**?*

*Oh, fun! Kinda busy right now, though. I have other plans. Go ahead and start without me.*

*No worries! I’ll wait! Come down as soon as you can.*

When rain showers appeared imminent, SPHP grabbed Lupe and hid with her on the downwind E side of the metal shed. No need to. The showers hit, but rain didn’t. Snow! Heh. Snow wasn’t a problem, not enough of it to matter. The clouds passed, and the snow ended.

Lupe went back to squirrel duty. SPHP wandered the summit of Mount Fairplay gazing out on the incredible Alaskan scenery. Mountains were in all directions, but for a very long way, none were as high as Mount Fairplay. All the rolling hills nearby were much lower.

Looking down **Mount Fairplay’s S ridge**. Photo looks SW.

Loopster gets back into the picture, while still keeping a watchful eye on the squirrel. Photo looks SSW.

The view to the W. Lupe had come up the long golden slope in sunlight from R to L. The G6 is parked at a pullout (not visible) along the Taylor Highway toward the R.

Same view with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

An endless stream of clouds sailed overhead. A few were dark enough to look a bit ominous, but nothing ever happened except brief peltings by tiny snow granules. Lupe kept up her squirrel vigilance. The hills in all directions had a mottled appearance, partly in sunshine and partly in shadow, but Mount Fairplay remained dark and cold.

Another dark cloud sails overhead. Photo looks SW.

Looper hadn’t even started out for Mount Fairplay until mid-afternoon. After a glorious hour, it was time to press on. The American Dingo was reluctant to leave, chagrined that the squirrel had not come down from its spectacular perch to play.

However, if the squirrel wasn’t interested in a game of Predator & Prey, there were other fun things to do. In 2017, Lupe had not visited the big rock formation at the S end of the saddle S of Mount Fairplay, even though it had been tempting to go check it out. This time around, SPHP was determined that Loop was going to get a chance to explore it.

Approaching the first big rock formation on Mount Fairplay’s S ridge. Photo looks SSW.

Scrambling up was trickier than it looked. Lupe got close to the top of the rock formation, and might have been able to reach it, but settled for a bit less. She already had a nice view over the length of the big saddle back to the summit of Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.), and there was plenty more intriguing territory to explore farther S.

Lots more fun territory to explore. Photo looks SSW.

The S ridge was rocky and rough. Loop abandoned the ridgeline bound for easier terrain below. Perhaps upset at having been led away from not one, but two, perfectly good squirrels today, the were-puppy made an appearance. The were-puppy first attacked SPHP, then delivered a stern lecture.

*I’d already found a squirrel up on Mount Fairplay! Why did we have to come down here?*

Lupe soon forgave SPHP, though, as she entered a golden land. With no goals or objectives to pursue other than to enjoy a magical evening in the trackless Alaskan wilderness, Lupe and SPHP simply wandered.

Looking back along the S ridge. The rock formation Lupe had climbed nearly to the top of is on the L. Photo looks NE.

Another look back. Mount Fairplay’s summit (L of Center) is the high point below the small cloud. Photo looks NNE.

The evening was magical! The Carolina Dog roamed free, far and wide. Lupe went a long way SW before SPHP realized it was time to start N in hopes of finding a way back down to the Taylor Highway not too far from the G6.

At one point Lupe came to a column of rock on the edge of a ridge. The skies had been clearing, and the evening had turned mostly sunny, but an impressive cloud still hung over Mount Fairplay as Lupe stood poised on the column.

**Mount Fairplay** (L) momentarily plagued by yet another dark cloud. Photo looks NE.

*You know, SPHP, there’s a squirrel up there. If we had only waited, I bet it would have come down by now.*

Though still August, this far N it was early autumn. As the sun slid ever closer to the far horizon, its slanting rays set aglow the blazing colors of the tundra. For a while Lupe and SPHP stopped to rest on a hillside, and ponder the sublime beauty of this precious world.

A magical evening on the W slopes of Mount Fairplay. Photo looks NW.

During the rest of the gorgeous trek back, the clouds all disappeared. Perhaps this magical evening was about to be followed by a magical night?

In the entire 3 weeks since the American Dingo had left Montana, Lupe hadn’t seen a single star. A year ago in early September, an orange moon had risen over Mount Fairplay in the wee hours of the morning, and for the very first time, Lupe had seen the Northern Lights.

Wouldn’t it be a treat, if she was in for a repeat performance tonight? (9:38 PM)

Returning from Mount Fairplay, Alaska 8-25-18

Links:

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The Taylor Highway

Mount Fairplay & Chicken, Alaska to the Top of the World Highway & Dawson City, Yukon Territory (9-2-17 & 9-3-17)

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