Day 14 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
8-17-19, 10:05 PM, 32 ºF snowing hard, Arctic Circle, Yukon Territory –
So since when does a 60% chance of precipitation mean hours and hours of rain followed by a blizzard?
This is the Arctic Circle, SPHP, you have to be ready for anything!
Evidently. You realize, Looper, that if it keeps snowing like this tonight, we are going to be stuck here for who knows how long?
It snowed here for a little while in the evening last year, too, SPHP. Remember? It all turned to rain, though, and by noon the next day we were able to keep going.
Yeah, we lucked out, but this time we know that the forecast is for more of the same for the next 3 days. Any significant accumulation tonight means the G6 isn’t getting over Wright Pass tomorrow. If we can’t do that, there goes the plan to blow a few days going to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk again while waiting for conditions to improve in the Richardson Mountains.
Well, let’s see how things look in the morning.
Loop, I’d love to, but we can’t wait. The snow is forcing our paw. Have to decide now. Might already be too late to escape, if it keeps snowing like this. Want to stay and risk getting stuck here in a snowbank for days, or at least try to flee S?
That’s what you want to do, SPHP? Flee S?
Hate to, but our gamble hasn’t paid off. Not looking like the Arctic Ocean or any peaks in the Richardsons are in the cards. If we’d just gotten some rain, that would be one thing – we could hang in here a while yet, but the weather’s been getting worse and worse. Even if it stops snowing down here, the mountains are already blanketed with snow. Won’t even start to melt for at least 4 days.
A mere two hours after arriving at the Arctic Circle, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood faced the humiliation of having to retreat. None of her 2019 arctic adventures so long in the works were going to happen. At least the American Dingo had made it to the true arctic for a 4th year in a row, which was some minor consolation.
The G6 sprang to life, crept back onto the Dempster Highway, and began jolting and sloshing S. Lupe had ended up fleeing the true arctic in 2018, too. She’d actually made it to the Arctic Ocean, but a blizzard with high winds had threatened on the return trip S. A repeat performance was now underway.
Pitch dark out! The snow was flying when Lupe went past the Eagle Plains hotel again. Foolishly, SPHP didn’t stop. Already knew there was no room at the inn for Dingoes tonight, but should have at least topped off the gas tank. Only down a couple of gallons, but they might postpone a true emergency for a little while.
Virtually no traffic. Snow started accumulating on the road. Like last year, another tense hours-long drive, but the G6 kept crawling forward. Relief every time the top of a hill was reached. Visibility was horrid, but at least it wasn’t snowing as hard as back at the Arctic Circle.
In blinding snow, SPHP completely missed the huge Ogilvie Ridge turnout, but was suddenly aware that the G6 must already be headed down Seven Mile Hill. 35 ºF! Like last year, the Ogilvie River valley was a little warmer. The snow turned to rain, the road merely wet. Saved! Another harrowing escape! Weary, SPHP found a spot to park for the night. 8-18-19, 2:09 AM.
8-18-19, 7:42 AM – Saved? Morning’s first glance was alarming! Close to the G6, the Ogilvie River was tremendously swollen, coming within only a few feet of overflowing onto the Dempster Highway. Could have been swept away in the night! The thought was horrifying.
Perhaps Lupe’s great escape was only partially successful? Snowing hard down here now, too. Fortunately not quite cold enough to stick. The Carolina Dog still had to get over Windy Pass. Might not be possible.
8-18-19, 8:48 AM, 33 ºF, Engineer Creek, km 179 – The news was better than expected. The sky was lighter. Barely snowing now, and only a good dusting on the Ogilvie Mountains. A couple of vehicles had been by heading N, one a mere sedan like the G6. Apparently it was possible to get over Windy Pass.
Did we do the right thing, Loopster?
What kind of a question is that, SPHP? You were the one in such a panic to retreat.
I know, but I wonder what really happened at the Arctic Circle last night? How much snow actually fell? Not that much down here.
Who knows? Seemed to be plenty of snow accumulating when we left. We’re a long way from the Arctic Circle now, SPHP. Don’t tell me you’re thinking of going back after all this! Are you crazy?
No, we’re still heading S. The prognosis wasn’t good, even if we didn’t get snowed in. Want to know something strange, though?
Do I have a choice?
Nope. Now that we are safely away, I sort of miss the intensity of facing the unknown.
That’s the adventurer in you, SPHP!
You really think so, Loop? Thank you!
Yes. And last night we saw the big chicken in you.
Hey! It was a logical decision.
Maybe. We’ll never know now how it would have turned out. So what’s the new plan, anyway, SPHP?
New plan? We’re going to complete our long joy ride, then ditch the Dempster Highway. Not going to hang around for days waiting for sunshine and warmer temps. Once we’re back to the N. Klondike Highway, we’ll turn W to Dawson City, take the free ferry across the Yukon River, and head for Alaska! Maybe you’ll get a chance to hit a couple of domes we missed out on last year?
Oh, I hope so! The scenery here has been magnificent, but I’m ready to get out and do something!
The road trip S resumed, with short stops here and there. Windy Pass looked and felt wintery, but the few snowflakes still flying were tiny. A little slush on the road presented no problem. By the time Lupe was back at the Blackstone River, the precipitation was all over and done with. Just a chilly, gray day.
Just enough snow had fallen along in here to beautify and highlight the rugged features of the mountains. Yes, yes, very lovely, but what really got Lupe excited was a moose dashing across the Dempster Highway!
The resulting barkfest was sweet, but disappointingly short. However, hopes for more action were soon raised. Lupe had seen only one moose, and when Two Moose Lake proved to be only a little farther down the road, she insisted on stopping.
That other moose ought to be around here somewhere! All senses on alert, Lupe patrolled the highway near Two Moose Lake, but stealth moose No. 2 was craftier than moose No. 1, remaining undetectable.
Two white swans took off from Two Moose Lake and flew away. No other movement. Disappointing and inexplicable. Oh, well. Back to the G6!
Another stop at the bubbly pond was a must! After that, shorter breaks to enjoy the snow-clad mountains on the way to North Fork Pass.
8-18-19, 11:32 AM, 32 ºF, Tombstone Territorial Park – 24 hours after leaving the N Klondike River overlook, Lupe was back. Still overcast, and the temperature hadn’t budged a single degree off freezing, but visibility was a little better. This time Loop thought she could make out Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) at the far end of the valley.
8-18-19, 1:13 PM, 48 ºF, parking area at km 26 – Before ditching the Dempster entirely, SPHP stopped once more at the parking area where Lupe had woken up yesterday morning. Such a difference now that she was down out of the Ogilvie Mountains! Sunny and comfortably warm. While SPHP made lunch, the Carolina Dog even sought shade among the bushes.
The whole jaunt up the Dempster Highway to the Arctic Circle had been more or less a fiasco, but had taken only 1.5 days. The American Dingo hadn’t gotten to climb a single peak, or even make an attempt on one, yet it had still been a ton of fun seeing all the gorgeous scenery again while clinging to a doomed hope for peakbagging success.
On the bright side, success was practically guaranteed now! The next peak on Lupe’s list of possible objectives was one she’d been to before. An easy drive-up, with a grand view of the fabled Yukon River! Half an hour after lunch, SPHP turned W on the N Klondike Highway. Loopster’s unproductive adventures along the Dempster Highway were over.
8-18-19, 3:55 PM, 50 ºF, Midnight Dome by Dawson City – So what if Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.) was a drive-up? Being on top of a mountain again felt great! No weather worries here! Lupe basked in sunshine. Throngs of people were coming and going, at least by Yukon Territory standards. And why not? A beautiful summer day, super easy access, and a splendid view overlooking Dawson City of Klondike Gold Rush fame along the mighty Yukon River.
Let it snow up at the Arctic Circle! Conditions were so much better down here. Midnight Dome only served to inspire the desire for more action. Still time enough left for it today, too! After leaving Midnight Dome, the American Dingo didn’t dawdle in Dawson City. Instead, she went straight to the free ferry, took it across the Yukon River, and set off on the Top of the World Highway.
104 km (64 miles) to Alaska! Lupe saw Cassiar Dome (4,450 ft.) and went right by Swede Dome (4,150 ft.) on the way, both of which she had climbed on a rainy day only a year ago. Would have been fun to climb them again, but the Carolina Dog had unfinished dome business to take care of in Alaska, and today was the day to do it!
2 km from the border, the Top of the World Highway curved over a ridge where a large parking area was on the S side of the road. Last chance to get out and enjoy the Yukon before crossing into Alaska!
US and Canadian customs were already in sight. Lupe crossed over to the N side of the Top of the World Highway, where a small hill with a huge cairn provided a great view of the border.
Crossing the border, Loop gained an hour. On Alaska time now!
8-18-19, 5:41 PM, 41 ºF, 1.5 miles into Alaska – Shortly after breezing through US customs, SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout on the N side of the Top of the World Highway. Out leapt the wily and ferocious were-puppy, totally excited about finally getting a chance to burn off excess energy! After the usual dastardly assault on SPHP, the were-puppy charged up Davis Dome (4,124 ft.).
From the pullout, Davis Dome was just a big rounded hill. Only 275 feet of elevation gain, so no sweat. Yet when Lupe had been here last year, persistent cold rain and dense fog had prevented even an attempt. Not going to be denied this time! Before long the were-puppy reached the top of a spacious plateau. Near the the marginally higher N edge, a loosely constructed cairn marked what passed for the true summit.
Off to the N, an enormous expanse of lower hills and long ridges extended toward higher peaks visible near the horizon. On the S side of the cairn, a survey marker was attached to a flat rock. Disappointingly, it was not stamped “Walker” as shown on the topo map. However, a short distance to the E another marker with an arrow pointing toward the cairn was.
The summit plateau was elongated toward the SW. Close to the S edge stood a green thingamajig. Since a 20 mph N wind was making hanging out by the cairn near the N edge a chilly proposition, Lupe headed S to check out the thingamajig.
The thingamajig had a door partway up the E side, and was fastened to Davis Dome by guy wires. It didn’t look very aerodynamic, but maybe if Loop got inside and SPHP released the guy wires, the thingamajig would launch into space and take her to the Land of Oz?
The Carolina Dog wasn’t convinced. At any rate, she preferred Alaska to adventures in Oz, especially if SPHP wasn’t coming with. Instead of launching into space, she continued her exploration of the Davis Dome summit plateau, going clear to the SW end before exploring the W edge.
The views were similar. Unspoiled hills and ridges as far as the Dingo could see, but no dramatic peaks. Lupe returned briefly to the summit cairn before heading back to the G6. (6:22 PM)
Getting on toward evening, but Lupe still had time for one more dome! The Top of the World Highway was beautifully paved for 14 miles from the Canadian border to a junction with the Taylor Highway (Hwy No. 5) at Jack Wade where SPHP turned N (R).
Following the Taylor Highway 65 miles all the way to its end would have brought the Carolina Dog to the Yukon River again at Eagle, but after only 3 miles SPHP parked on a saddle at a large dirt lot on the SW (L) side of the road.
8-18-19, 6:58 PM, 38 ºF, Taylor Highway 3 miles N of Jack Wade – From here, the topo map showed some sort of a route going 0.5 mile NNE up Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.). Crossing the highway, Lupe searched for signs of a path up a slope thick with bushes and stunted trees. She soon discovered an old, deeply rutted jeep or ATV trail. No markings, but this had to be it.
Like Davis Dome, Steele Creek Dome was just another big rounded hill. However, with 500 feet of elevation gain required, climbing Steele Creek Dome would take nearly twice as much effort. The ATV trail made the trek an easy one, except for one spot where it headed straight into a bog. Following a side trail, Lupe circled around the L side of the boggy area, and was soon able to rejoin the main route higher.
About halfway up, the trees and even the bushes began to thin out. The top of the dome didn’t look an awful lot farther.
Steele Creek Dome’s summit was a much smaller region than the big plateau at Davis Dome. Lupe arrived at the W end of a rounded ridge. She was close to a loose cairn of white rocks. At the opposite end of the short ridge, a much larger cairn sat on a little high point.
Midway between the two cairns was another high spot unadorned by anything except a cluster of small rocks. The cluster seemed about as high as where the big cairn was, so Lupe paused here, before continuing on to the big cairn.
Seemed like Davis Dome ought to be visible off to the SE, but which hill was it? Hard to say. Maybe it really wasn’t in sight? SPHP was unable to make positive identification.
Big hills and ridges in all directions. 35 ºF. The N wind was only 15 mph now, but the chill breeze combined with the 360 degree panorama and sinking sun heightened a sense of loneliness and extreme remoteness. The Taylor Highway stretching off into the distance was the only sign of civilization. Even it appeared to be completely abandoned.
Staring far to the SW, SPHP suddenly realized that Lupe had been to the highest peak faintly visible on the horizon. Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.), a favorite spot! The American Dingo had climbed it twice. Tomorrow Lupe would be going right by Mount Fairplay again. If the weather held, maybe she could make a 3rd ascent?
Something to look forward to. Mount Fairplay was awesome! Still just another big hill, but a really big one. Over 2,000 feet of elevation gain from the highway, and 3,000 feet of prominence.
Seemed like a long time since way back at the swollen Ogilvie River this morning. Getting late enough so that Lupe didn’t linger long on remote Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.).
On the way down, SPHP became engaged in scarfing up luscious, ripe wild blueberries. The exasperated were-puppy reappeared. Twice! The were-puppy’s insistent threats finally persuaded SPHP to move along at a more lively pace. (End 8:02 PM)
8-18-19, 9:02 PM, 37 ºF, Taylor Highway SSW of Steele Creek Dome – The G6 was pointed NW. After a dinner of pink salmon and Alpo, a sleepy Carolina Dog munched happily on a rawhide stick. Outside, the sky was almost totally clear. Might be a cold night! So quiet here. Sunset in 20 or 30 minutes.
Perfectly positioned for it, but the sunset never really developed. A golden orb hovered briefly on the horizon, then slipped and was gone.
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I wish I could’ve been there! What a great adventure!
Lupe, you and SPHP have no idea how much happiness you bring to me. When things feel stressful, I just go read about your adventuring. My happy place. Thanks!