Top of the World Highway – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Ditching the Dempster & Doing Domes, Yukon Territory & Alaska (8-18-19)

Day 14 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-17-19, 10:05 PM, 32 ºF snowing hard, Arctic Circle, Yukon Territory –

So since when does a 60% chance of precipitation mean hours and hours of rain followed by a blizzard?

This is the Arctic Circle, SPHP, you have to be ready for anything!

Evidently. You realize, Looper, that if it keeps snowing like this tonight, we are going to be stuck here for who knows how long?

It snowed here for a little while in the evening last year, too, SPHP. Remember? It all turned to rain, though, and by noon the next day we were able to keep going.

Yeah, we lucked out, but this time we know that the forecast is for more of the same for the next 3 days. Any significant accumulation tonight means the G6 isn’t getting over Wright Pass tomorrow. If we can’t do that, there goes the plan to blow a few days going to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk again while waiting for conditions to improve in the Richardson Mountains.

Well, let’s see how things look in the morning.

Loop, I’d love to, but we can’t wait. The snow is forcing our paw. Have to decide now. Might already be too late to escape, if it keeps snowing like this. Want to stay and risk getting stuck here in a snowbank for days, or at least try to flee S?

That’s what you want to do, SPHP? Flee S?

Hate to, but our gamble hasn’t paid off. Not looking like the Arctic Ocean or any peaks in the Richardsons are in the cards. If we’d just gotten some rain, that would be one thing – we could hang in here a while yet, but the weather’s been getting worse and worse. Even if it stops snowing down here, the mountains are already blanketed with snow. Won’t even start to melt for at least 4 days.

A mere two hours after arriving at the Arctic Circle, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood faced the humiliation of having to retreat. None of her 2019 arctic adventures so long in the works were going to happen. At least the American Dingo had made it to the true arctic for a 4th year in a row, which was some minor consolation.

The G6 sprang to life, crept back onto the Dempster Highway, and began jolting and sloshing S. Lupe had ended up fleeing the true arctic in 2018, too. She’d actually made it to the Arctic Ocean, but a blizzard with high winds had threatened on the return trip S. A repeat performance was now underway.

Pitch dark out! The snow was flying when Lupe went past the Eagle Plains hotel again. Foolishly, SPHP didn’t stop. Already knew there was no room at the inn for Dingoes tonight, but should have at least topped off the gas tank. Only down a couple of gallons, but they might postpone a true emergency for a little while.

Virtually no traffic. Snow started accumulating on the road. Like last year, another tense hours-long drive, but the G6 kept crawling forward. Relief every time the top of a hill was reached. Visibility was horrid, but at least it wasn’t snowing as hard as back at the Arctic Circle.

In blinding snow, SPHP completely missed the huge Ogilvie Ridge turnout, but was suddenly aware that the G6 must already be headed down Seven Mile Hill. 35 ºF! Like last year, the Ogilvie River valley was a little warmer. The snow turned to rain, the road merely wet. Saved! Another harrowing escape! Weary, SPHP found a spot to park for the night. 8-18-19, 2:09 AM.

8-18-19, 7:42 AM – Saved? Morning’s first glance was alarming! Close to the G6, the Ogilvie River was tremendously swollen, coming within only a few feet of overflowing onto the Dempster Highway. Could have been swept away in the night! The thought was horrifying.

Lupe at road level next to the swollen **Ogilvie River**, which had risen tremendously overnight. About km 221 of the Dempster Highway.

Perhaps Lupe’s great escape was only partially successful? Snowing hard down here now, too. Fortunately not quite cold enough to stick. The Carolina Dog still had to get over Windy Pass. Might not be possible.

Less than a mile farther S, the Dempster Highway was reassuringly higher versus the river compared to where Lupe had spent the night.

8-18-19, 8:48 AM, 33 ºF, Engineer Creek, km 179 – The news was better than expected. The sky was lighter. Barely snowing now, and only a good dusting on the Ogilvie Mountains. A couple of vehicles had been by heading N, one a mere sedan like the G6. Apparently it was possible to get over Windy Pass.

By **Engineer Creek**, km 179. Photo looks S.

Did we do the right thing, Loopster?

What kind of a question is that, SPHP? You were the one in such a panic to retreat.

I know, but I wonder what really happened at the Arctic Circle last night? How much snow actually fell? Not that much down here.

Who knows? Seemed to be plenty of snow accumulating when we left. We’re a long way from the Arctic Circle now, SPHP. Don’t tell me you’re thinking of going back after all this! Are you crazy?

No, we’re still heading S. The prognosis wasn’t good, even if we didn’t get snowed in. Want to know something strange, though?

Do I have a choice?

Nope. Now that we are safely away, I sort of miss the intensity of facing the unknown.

That’s the adventurer in you, SPHP!

You really think so, Loop? Thank you!

Yes. And last night we saw the big chicken in you.

Hey! It was a logical decision.

Maybe. We’ll never know now how it would have turned out. So what’s the new plan, anyway, SPHP?

New plan? We’re going to complete our long joy ride, then ditch the Dempster Highway. Not going to hang around for days waiting for sunshine and warmer temps. Once we’re back to the N. Klondike Highway, we’ll turn W to Dawson City, take the free ferry across the Yukon River, and head for Alaska! Maybe you’ll get a chance to hit a couple of domes we missed out on last year?

Oh, I hope so! The scenery here has been magnificent, but I’m ready to get out and do something!

The road trip S resumed, with short stops here and there. Windy Pass looked and felt wintery, but the few snowflakes still flying were tiny. A little slush on the road presented no problem. By the time Lupe was back at the Blackstone River, the precipitation was all over and done with. Just a chilly, gray day.

Winter in mid-August at **Windy Pass**, km 152. Photo looks S.

Just enough snow had fallen along in here to beautify and highlight the rugged features of the mountains. Yes, yes, very lovely, but what really got Lupe excited was a moose dashing across the Dempster Highway!

The resulting barkfest was sweet, but disappointingly short. However, hopes for more action were soon raised. Lupe had seen only one moose, and when Two Moose Lake proved to be only a little farther down the road, she insisted on stopping.

That other moose ought to be around here somewhere! All senses on alert, Lupe patrolled the highway near Two Moose Lake, but stealth moose No. 2 was craftier than moose No. 1, remaining undetectable.

*Alright! Come on, SPHP! Moose No. 2 must be somewhere around here.* Photo looks NNE.

A brisk patrol of the Dempster Highway near **Two Moose Lake**. Photo looks S.

**Two Moose Lake** and the **Ogilvie Mountains**. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Two white swans took off from Two Moose Lake and flew away. No other movement. Disappointing and inexplicable. Oh, well. Back to the G6!

Another stop at the bubbly pond was a must! After that, shorter breaks to enjoy the snow-clad mountains on the way to North Fork Pass.

Back at the bubbly pond (km 95), a favorite Lupe hideout. Photo looks E.

An enticing unnamed peak. Photo looks SE.

Another look with help from the telephoto lens.

On the way to North Fork Pass, Tombstone Territorial Park. Photo looks SE.

8-18-19, 11:32 AM, 32 ºF, Tombstone Territorial Park – 24 hours after leaving the N Klondike River overlook, Lupe was back. Still overcast, and the temperature hadn’t budged a single degree off freezing, but visibility was a little better. This time Loop thought she could make out Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) at the far end of the valley.

**N Klondike River valley** (km 74). Photo looks SW.

**Tombstone Mountain** was faintly visible at the far end of the valley. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

8-18-19, 1:13 PM, 48 ºF, parking area at km 26 – Before ditching the Dempster entirely, SPHP stopped once more at the parking area where Lupe had woken up yesterday morning. Such a difference now that she was down out of the Ogilvie Mountains! Sunny and comfortably warm. While SPHP made lunch, the Carolina Dog even sought shade among the bushes.

*If the Arctic Circle had been like this, I would already be on top of **Peak 3850** in the Richardson Mountains!*

The whole jaunt up the Dempster Highway to the Arctic Circle had been more or less a fiasco, but had taken only 1.5 days. The American Dingo hadn’t gotten to climb a single peak, or even make an attempt on one, yet it had still been a ton of fun seeing all the gorgeous scenery again while clinging to a doomed hope for peakbagging success.

On the bright side, success was practically guaranteed now! The next peak on Lupe’s list of possible objectives was one she’d been to before. An easy drive-up, with a grand view of the fabled Yukon River! Half an hour after lunch, SPHP turned W on the N Klondike Highway. Loopster’s unproductive adventures along the Dempster Highway were over.

8-18-19, 3:55 PM, 50 ºF, Midnight Dome by Dawson City – So what if Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.) was a drive-up? Being on top of a mountain again felt great! No weather worries here! Lupe basked in sunshine. Throngs of people were coming and going, at least by Yukon Territory standards. And why not? A beautiful summer day, super easy access, and a splendid view overlooking Dawson City of Klondike Gold Rush fame along the mighty Yukon River.

*There’s **Dawson City** and the **Yukon River**! A shame we’re 123 years too late for the start of the Klondike Gold Rush!* Photo looks SW.

*I only climbed 20 feet to get to this rock, but it’s still the top of a mountain, and look at that view of the **Yukon River**!* Photo looks NNW.

**Yukon River**. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Let it snow up at the Arctic Circle! Conditions were so much better down here. Midnight Dome only served to inspire the desire for more action. Still time enough left for it today, too! After leaving Midnight Dome, the American Dingo didn’t dawdle in Dawson City. Instead, she went straight to the free ferry, took it across the Yukon River, and set off on the Top of the World Highway.

Heading for Alaska on the Top of the World Highway.

104 km (64 miles) to Alaska! Lupe saw Cassiar Dome (4,450 ft.) and went right by Swede Dome (4,150 ft.) on the way, both of which she had climbed on a rainy day only a year ago. Would have been fun to climb them again, but the Carolina Dog had unfinished dome business to take care of in Alaska, and today was the day to do it!

2 km from the border, the Top of the World Highway curved over a ridge where a large parking area was on the S side of the road. Last chance to get out and enjoy the Yukon before crossing into Alaska!

2 km from the Alaska border about to leave the fabulous Yukon Territory. Photo looks S.

US and Canadian customs were already in sight. Lupe crossed over to the N side of the Top of the World Highway, where a small hill with a huge cairn provided a great view of the border.

Still in the Yukon, but with Alaska in sight! Photo looks NW.

**US/Canadian customs** from the Yukon side of the border. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Crossing the border, Loop gained an hour. On Alaska time now!

8-18-19, 5:41 PM, 41 ºF, 1.5 miles into Alaska – Shortly after breezing through US customs, SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout on the N side of the Top of the World Highway. Out leapt the wily and ferocious were-puppy, totally excited about finally getting a chance to burn off excess energy! After the usual dastardly assault on SPHP, the were-puppy charged up Davis Dome (4,124 ft.).

The were-puppy threatens SPHP shortly after entering Alaska. **Davis Dome** in the background. Photo looks SW.

From the pullout, Davis Dome was just a big rounded hill. Only 275 feet of elevation gain, so no sweat. Yet when Lupe had been here last year, persistent cold rain and dense fog had prevented even an attempt. Not going to be denied this time! Before long the were-puppy reached the top of a spacious plateau. Near the the marginally higher N edge, a loosely constructed cairn marked what passed for the true summit.

At the top of **Davis Dome**. Note the survey benchmark near the base of the cairn straight below Lupe’s rear leg. Photo looks N.

Off to the N, an enormous expanse of lower hills and long ridges extended toward higher peaks visible near the horizon. On the S side of the cairn, a survey marker was attached to a flat rock. Disappointingly, it was not stamped “Walker” as shown on the topo map. However, a short distance to the E another marker with an arrow pointing toward the cairn was.

Survey benchmark at the base of the cairn.

The bronze mushroom near Looper’s front paws is actually the survey marker with the arrow. Photo looks WNW.

The summit plateau was elongated toward the SW. Close to the S edge stood a green thingamajig. Since a 20 mph N wind was making hanging out by the cairn near the N edge a chilly proposition, Lupe headed S to check out the thingamajig.

**Davis Dome summit plateau**. Photo looks SSW.

The thingamajig had a door partway up the E side, and was fastened to Davis Dome by guy wires. It didn’t look very aerodynamic, but maybe if Loop got inside and SPHP released the guy wires, the thingamajig would launch into space and take her to the Land of Oz?

Checking out the Davis Dome thingamajig. Photo looks SW.

The Carolina Dog wasn’t convinced. At any rate, she preferred Alaska to adventures in Oz, especially if SPHP wasn’t coming with. Instead of launching into space, she continued her exploration of the Davis Dome summit plateau, going clear to the SW end before exploring the W edge.

Near the **SW end of the summit plateau**. The cairn is just visible on the L. US and Canadian customs (R) are seen just L of the thingamajig (far R). Photo looks NE.

The views were similar. Unspoiled hills and ridges as far as the Dingo could see, but no dramatic peaks. Lupe returned briefly to the summit cairn before heading back to the G6. (6:22 PM)

The G6 waits down at the pullout next to the Top of the World Highway. US and Canadian Customs at the Alaska/Yukon border (Center). Photo looks NE.

US and Canadian Customs from Davis Dome with help from the telephoto lens.

Getting on toward evening, but Lupe still had time for one more dome! The Top of the World Highway was beautifully paved for 14 miles from the Canadian border to a junction with the Taylor Highway (Hwy No. 5) at Jack Wade where SPHP turned N (R).

Following the Taylor Highway 65 miles all the way to its end would have brought the Carolina Dog to the Yukon River again at Eagle, but after only 3 miles SPHP parked on a saddle at a large dirt lot on the SW (L) side of the road.

8-18-19, 6:58 PM, 38 ºF, Taylor Highway 3 miles N of Jack Wade – From here, the topo map showed some sort of a route going 0.5 mile NNE up Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.). Crossing the highway, Lupe searched for signs of a path up a slope thick with bushes and stunted trees. She soon discovered an old, deeply rutted jeep or ATV trail. No markings, but this had to be it.

**Steele Creek Dome** from the parking area along the Taylor Highway. Photo looks NE.

Starting up the badly eroded ATV trail. Photo looks NE.

Like Davis Dome, Steele Creek Dome was just another big rounded hill. However, with 500 feet of elevation gain required, climbing Steele Creek Dome would take nearly twice as much effort. The ATV trail made the trek an easy one, except for one spot where it headed straight into a bog. Following a side trail, Lupe circled around the L side of the boggy area, and was soon able to rejoin the main route higher.

About halfway up, the trees and even the bushes began to thin out. The top of the dome didn’t look an awful lot farther.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks NE.

Steele Creek Dome’s summit was a much smaller region than the big plateau at Davis Dome. Lupe arrived at the W end of a rounded ridge. She was close to a loose cairn of white rocks. At the opposite end of the short ridge, a much larger cairn sat on a little high point.

At the top of **Steele Creek Dome**. Photo looks ENE.

Midway between the two cairns was another high spot unadorned by anything except a cluster of small rocks. The cluster seemed about as high as where the big cairn was, so Lupe paused here, before continuing on to the big cairn.

At the cluster high point between the 2 cairns. Photo looks E.

**Steele Creek Dome**. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Seemed like Davis Dome ought to be visible off to the SE, but which hill was it? Hard to say. Maybe it really wasn’t in sight? SPHP was unable to make positive identification.

Big hills and ridges in all directions. 35 ºF. The N wind was only 15 mph now, but the chill breeze combined with the 360 degree panorama and sinking sun heightened a sense of loneliness and extreme remoteness. The Taylor Highway stretching off into the distance was the only sign of civilization. Even it appeared to be completely abandoned.

The Taylor Highway winds off toward Jack Wade junction. The G6 is parked down where the road appears to end toward the R. Photo looks SSW.

Another 62 miles from here to the end of the Taylor Highway at Eagle on the Yukon River. Lupe never went this way. Photo looks WNW.

Staring far to the SW, SPHP suddenly realized that Lupe had been to the highest peak faintly visible on the horizon. Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.), a favorite spot! The American Dingo had climbed it twice. Tomorrow Lupe would be going right by Mount Fairplay again. If the weather held, maybe she could make a 3rd ascent?

Something to look forward to. Mount Fairplay was awesome! Still just another big hill, but a really big one. Over 2,000 feet of elevation gain from the highway, and 3,000 feet of prominence.

**Mount Fairplay** (Center) from **Steele Creek Dome**. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Seemed like a long time since way back at the swollen Ogilvie River this morning. Getting late enough so that Lupe didn’t linger long on remote Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.).

Final moments on Steele Creek Dome. Photo looks NE.

*3 domes in one day! That’s pretty good, isn’t it?*

On the way down, SPHP became engaged in scarfing up luscious, ripe wild blueberries. The exasperated were-puppy reappeared. Twice! The were-puppy’s insistent threats finally persuaded SPHP to move along at a more lively pace. (End 8:02 PM)

8-18-19, 9:02 PM, 37 ºF, Taylor Highway SSW of Steele Creek Dome – The G6 was pointed NW. After a dinner of pink salmon and Alpo, a sleepy Carolina Dog munched happily on a rawhide stick. Outside, the sky was almost totally clear. Might be a cold night! So quiet here. Sunset in 20 or 30 minutes.

Perfectly positioned for it, but the sunset never really developed. A golden orb hovered briefly on the horizon, then slipped and was gone.

*So that’s it from Steele Creek Dome! We’re just getting started in Alaska, though. Hope you join me again for more Dingo Adventures real soon!*

Links:

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Doing Domes – The Top of the World Highway from Dawson City to the Alaska border, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-24-18)

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Doing Domes – the Top of the World Highway from Dawson City to the Alaska Border, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-24-18)

Day 21 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

7:20 AM, 50°F, Midnight Dome near Dawson City – A warm night! Kind of nice. Rained the whole time. Outside the G6, it was still coming down. Mist and fog. So no big rush to do anything. SPHP caught up the trip journal while Lupe dozed or watched raindrops on their sudden dashes down the windshield. Not too scintillating.

9:21 AM, 45°F – No change in the weather, but the American Dingo was about to get underway! A day of peakbagging Domes along the Top of the World Highway was in store. Lupe kicked things off with a super easy one. Since she had spent the night on Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.) not far from the summit, a second quick ascent was in order.

Lupe had already seen the lovely views of the Yukon River and Dawson City from Midnight Dome yesterday evening. No special reason to make another ascent except for its own sake. She certainly wasn’t going to see anything this morning. On the other paw, the summit was only a trivial 20 feet higher than the viewpoint along the loop road, and the Carolina Dog was already here, so why not?

Two minutes after escaping the G6, Lupe was again standing on the huge, rustic wooden bench at the top of Midnight Dome.

*The views were better yesterday when there were some! Can we go now? I’m getting wet!*

Heading back down Dome Road to the North Klondike Highway and Dawson City, the thrill of not having seen a thing wore off pretty quickly. Not to worry, more excitement was only minutes away! SPHP let Lupe stand in the rain near the fabled Yukon River, which actually was in view, while waiting for the George Black ferry.

The **Yukon River** ferry landing at the N end of Dawson City.

10:19 AM, 48°F – The ride across the Yukon River aboard the George Black ferry is free, and the ferry operates around the clock. Vehicles had been disembarking on the far shore when Lupe arrived, but soon the George Black was on its way back.

The George Black ferry (L) is the only way across the **Yukon River** at Dawson City.

10:36 AM, 48°F – Once across the Yukon River, Lupe and SPHP set out on the Top of the World Highway (Hwy 9) to look for the road to Clinton and Cassiar Dome (4,450 ft.). Hwy 9 climbed steadily out of the river valley. For several miles, the road was paved. Even before it turned to gravel, Lupe was back in fog again. Rain continued without let up.

A discouraging start, but after 40 km, occasional breaks appeared in the clouds. Lupe could sometimes see nearby ridges, and even enjoyed brief moments of sunshine. This more hopeful weather held for the next 15 km, before conditions deteriorated again. Only a few km farther, about 59 km from Dawson City, the road to Clinton appeared as a R (N) turn.

SPHP hadn’t noticed any signs for Clinton along the Top of the World Highway, but a white sign 200 feet N of the junction mentioned Clinton Creek, so this had to be the right road. The topo map showed that 6 km (4 miles) N of this intersection, Clinton Road goes over a saddle that might make a decent starting point for an ascent of Cassiar Dome.

However, the weather was lousy. No point in leaving the Top of the World Highway just yet. The American Dingo was going to have to wait for improvement. SPHP parked the G6 at large level area W of Clinton Road close to the intersection. Might as well wait here.

11:47 AM, 43°F, km 59 of the Top of the World Highway – After a quick romp in the rain and fog, it was time for lunch. Canned salmon and Ritz crackers! Lupe feasted on both. Nothing changed outside, so after lunch the Carolina Dog took a long nap. Not to be outdone, SPHP joined her.

2:20 PM – Still raining, but the sky is a bit brighter, and the fog isn’t as dense. To the N, some of Clinton Road is visible. The whole area it goes through looks heavily forested. If that is what the route to Cassiar Dome is going to be like, Lupe will get absolutely soaked before she’s 20 feet from the G6.

However, off to the SW, a barren ridge is in sight. The map shows that Swede Dome (4,150 ft.) isn’t too far beyond that ridge. Maybe Lupe ought to forget Cassiar Dome, and go check out Swede Dome instead? With only a little over 300 feet of elevation gain required, Swede Dome isn’t much of a climb, but considering the circumstances, that’s a good thing! The Top of the World Highway passes right along the N and W slopes, so it won’t be a long trek, either.

Maybe Lupe can climb Swede Dome even in this weather?

On the Top of the World Highway en route to check out **Swede Dome** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

2:38 PM, 44°F – SPHP parked the G6 W of Swede Dome close to the km 64 marker. Only light rain at the moment, probably about as good as things are going to get today. Swede Dome is not forested, and the top isn’t that far away. Might as well give it a go!

Leaving the G6, Lupe crossed the highway, went up an embankment, and started up a long, broad slope.

Starting up **Swede Dome**. Photo looks ESE.

Swede Dome was an easy climb. Not too far from the top, Lupe reached a region of low bushes, and thick, spongy tundra which made things a bit more difficult, but abundant blueberries slowed SPHP down more than anything else. The steepest part of the climb was just above this zone, but didn’t take long. Soon the slope was leveling out.

The top of the mountain was a large, nearly flat area of tundra dotted with sporadic low bushes and a few scattered conifers. Several cairns were along the N rim. Lupe came up from the W, and still had a bit of a march ahead of her to get to the actual high point.

Relaxing on the soft, wet tundra on top of **Swede Dome**. Photo looks NE.

Approaching the cairn (L of Center) at the true summit.

The true summit of Swede Dome was somewhat E of the center of the spacious flat region, nowhere near any edge. A big cairn sat at or very close to the actual high point. Nearby, an ancient battered washtub was attached to a post. Lupe got up onto the cairn to claim her Swede Dome peakbagging success!

At what appeared to be the true summit of **Swede Dome**.

*At least I got one dome done along the Top of the World Highway today!*

*Oh, yeah, this is magnificent! Without being able to see very far, we’re kind of hard up for Swede Dome highlights, aren’t we?*

Fog occasionally swept over the mountain. The cloud ceiling was too low to permit any distant views. Looper couldn’t see much from Swede Dome, except along the N edge where she could look down on the Top of the World Highway.

The Top of the World Highway from along the **N edge of Swede Dome**. Photo looks NE.

Toward the W end. The slope Lupe had come up is on the R. The G6 is in sight. Photo looks WSW.

3:26 PM, 44°F – Lupe didn’t stay up on Swede Dome for long. Less than an hour after leaving the G6, she was back. She had scarcely returned, when the sky brightened. For several minutes, sunshine filtered through the clouds. Coming on the heels of Loopster’s Swede Dome success, the sunlight was enough to revive hopes for Cassiar Dome. Clinton Road was only 5 km back. Maybe Lupe ought to at least go take a closer look?

Approaching Clinton Road, a high hill could now be seen off to the N. That had to be Cassiar Dome, didn’t it? In front of the hill was a faint rainbow.

A faint rainbow comes down to Clinton Road in front of **Cassiar Dome**. Photo looks N.

3:52 PM, 45°F – Coming from the W, a green street sign for Clinton Road did appear along the Top of the World Highway prior to the turn. SPHP drove N on Clinton Road almost to the saddle SW of Cassiar Dome. Two side roads split off from the same point on the R (NE) side of Clinton Road shortly before reaching the pass.

Most interesting! SPHP parked the G6. The map didn’t show these side roads. If either one could get Lupe closer to Cassiar Dome (4,450 ft.), that would be a huge help! The sunshine had disappeared, and it was raining again, but Lupe and SPHP got out for a look.

The side road on the L went NW toward a big ridge. Whether the road was destined to go up onto the ridge, or around to the other side couldn’t be seen from here. The top of this ridge was actually the route that SPHP intended Lupe to take over to Cassiar Dome, provided it wasn’t forested. Didn’t look like it was, either, so that was great news!

The side road to the R went NNE, more directly toward Cassiar Dome, but gradually losing elevation as it disappeared from view among tall bushes. Apparently it wasn’t headed for the top of anything. Between these two roads was a sign. Unfortunately, the sign gave no indication where either road went.

These side roads off Clinton Road are about 4 miles N of the Top of the World Highway. **Cassiar Dome** on the R. Photo looks NNE.

Sticking with the original plan by taking the side road to the L as far up onto the big ridge as possible seemed like the thing to do, except for one thing. Looking over at Cassiar Dome, a thin, but distinct line could be seen in the vegetation running horizontally along the SW slope. That line wasn’t an awful lot higher than where the G6 was now. 200 feet?

A road? Had to be, didn’t it? Maybe this side road to the R didn’t keep sinking into the valley between here and Cassiar Dome, but instead went around the N end of the valley to link up with the road over there? That would be awesome! A fabulous shortcut, a road directly to Cassiar Dome! What a gift! Lupe had to check out that possibility.

A short foray was made down the road to the R. Loop didn’t have to go far before the side road leveled out. More horizontal line could be seen on the side of the slopes ahead. Yes, it did look like this road might well be the same one visible on the side of Cassiar Dome!

So taking the side road to the R became the new plan, but the plan couldn’t be implemented yet. Raining too hard! The way things were looking, Lupe would almost certainly get drenched if she took on Cassiar Dome today, probably multiple times, but that didn’t mean she had to start out when it was raining this hard. Lupe and SPHP retreated to the G6, as more rain and fog swept through the region.

4:39 PM – Still rather foggy, but not raining. Now or never! Abandoning the G6, Lupe and SPHP headed out taking the side road to the R. Other than one empty beer can, Loop saw no sign that anyone ever comes this way anymore. Not a speck of trash. In a few spots, the wilderness was starting to close back in, but the road was never completely blocked. The little road served as a great path, fine nearly the entire way. The Carolina Dog made rapid progress.

Shortly after starting out on the minor side road that went to the R. Photo looks N.

Looper leading the way exploring ahead. The SW slope of **Cassiar Dome** is in the fog on the R. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe had a blast running and sniffing, but wisely did not venture into the wilderness on either side of the road.

After going perhaps a couple of miles, the road reached the lower SW slopes of Cassiar Dome (4,450 ft.). The most direct route to the summit would have been to leave the road right away and start climbing. However, the mountainside was steep here, and thickly covered with wet bushes taller than SPHP.

Lupe wouldn’t have to climb terribly far to get up above the bushes, but such a feat looked like a struggle. The Carolina Dog was already sopping wet from vegetation on the road. SPHP was only wet to mid-thigh, and wasn’t anxious to get totally soaked head to foot.

Maybe the road would climb above the bushes, if Looper followed it far enough around the S end of Cassiar Dome? That might add quite a bit of distance, but following the road was fast. Wouldn’t take that long to at least give it a shot.

So Lupe stuck with the road quite a bit farther as it curved SE around the N end of the Cassiar Creek valley. Loop got all the way to the S end of Cassiar Dome where the road turned E. She’d gained a little elevation, but not much. However, it was enough. The slope leading higher to the N wasn’t as steep as before, and only a narrow band of tall bushes had to be negotiated before Lupe would reach open ground.

Leaving the road, the American Dingo charged N up the slope. Lupe was beyond the stand of tall bushes in practically no time. Only relatively low bushes, rocks, tundra, and scattered stunted conifers up here. Off to the SE, Clinton Road was in sight. SPHP could tell where the junction with the side roads was back where the G6 was parked. Lupe still hadn’t gained much elevation. 200 feet max, maybe less.

Looking back to the SE shortly after leaving the side road. Clinton Road is easily seen on the L on the far ridge. The side road Lupe had taken to get here is faint, but detectable on the R. The roads meet at the distant gentle saddle at Center.

Beginning her search for the summit of Cassiar Dome, Lupe headed N. She had gone so far S on the road that it was going to be a bit of a trek. Loop came to a series of big benches on the way. None were difficult climbs.

Looking N at one of the first big benches Lupe climbed on the way up **Cassiar Dome**.

A colorful slope leading to another bench. Photo looks NW.

As Lupe climbed, stunted trees and even low bushes vanished. The last couple of benches were just rocks and tundra. By the time Lupe reached the top of the last bench, she was on a wide tundra plain in dense fog. The terrain sloped barely higher as Looper continued N. Couldn’t be too much farther to the summit, could it?

On the last bench, wondering how much farther to the summit? Would the true summit even be a recognizable point? Photo looks N.

In the Yukon fog, what was probably only a 5 to 10 minute march N on the uppermost bench seemed endless. At last, a dimly perceived dark form could be seen ahead. A few more steps, and the looming presence transformed into a hill of dark rock. This hill was maybe 100 feet high. That had to be it! The summit of Cassiar Dome was up there!

Lupe approaches the hill of dark rock at the N end of the last bench. Photo looks N.

Up until now, Lupe had been exceptionally lucky. So far, she had only been sprinkled on a few times. Suddenly, though, the fog was getting darker and denser. Rain! Going to get it this time! Before taking on the dark rocky hill, SPHP stopped to put on the rain poncho.

The intrepid American Dingo started climbing. Lupe arrived at the top of Cassiar Dome (4,450 ft.) in the worst weather of the day. Raining hard with a cold W wind. Miserable!

The summit area was roundish, at least an acre in size. Big patches of dark-colored rocks were scattered over tundra-covered terrain. Lupe came up near the S end. Not too far to the NE sat what appeared to be a large cairn of dark rocks. This cairn was higher than anything else on the mountain, but may not have been at the true summit. The highest natural terrain seemed to be closer to the NW edge.

Lupe visited both the cairn and the natural high ground, but under these inhospitable conditions, only briefly. Couldn’t see a thing in this fog, anyway, and the cold wind and rain weren’t any fun at all.

On the big cairn of dark rock on top of **Cassiar Dome**.

*Better get your photo fast, SPHP! I’m not staying up here forever!*

Exploring (briefly) the summit of **Cassiar Dome**. The cairn is L of Center.

*This doing domes business isn’t as much fun as I’d hoped it would be.*

The weather improved markedly shortly after Lupe began her descent. She went down the SW slope to begin with, but then had a mysteriously long march curling back around to the E looking for the long upper bench where she had finally seen the summit hill. Perhaps SPHP had gotten turned around in the fog to some extent?

Whatever the reason for the unexpectedly long march, Lupe did make it back to the upper bench.

Back on the long upper bench during the descent. Photo looks S.

On the way down the various benches, Lupe emerged from the fog. She now enjoyed her best views from Cassiar Dome. The weather was still unsettled, but Loop could see farther than before. Wispy banks of fog sailed with dramatic effect among rounded hills and ridges beneath a still overcast sky.

View to the WNW while still fairly high on **Cassiar Dome**.

The side road Lupe followed from Clinton Road is easily seen on the far slope beyond her. Clinton Road is on the L. Photo looks SW.

Looking over the Cassiar Creek valley toward Clinton Road. The junction with the Top of the World Highway is on the L. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

For Lupe, the highlight of the whole trek back down the benches to the side road was seeing two deer, or maybe they were caribou? Lupe didn’t care which they were. Even though they were a long way off, she was excited and keenly interested.

*Oh, Lupe, it’s you! You scared the piss outta me!*

The descent down the benches was pretty easy. Once Loop made it back to the side road, she still had close to 3 miles to go to get back to the G6 the way the road went. It was all fun, though.

Well, almost. During the return, Lupe had only been lightly sprinkled on a few times. Ten minutes before the Carolina Dog made it back to the G6, though, the sky darkened again. Hurrying didn’t help. Only five minutes short of the G6, Loop and SPHP endured a second drenching.

8:10 PM, 45°F – Immediately upon reaching the G6, SPHP drove back to the Top of the World Highway and turned W. It wasn’t raining over by Swede Dome, in fact Lupe had a much better view of Swede Dome now than she’d had earlier.

**Swede Dome** from the Top of the World Highway. Photo looks SSW.

**Swede Dome** with help from the telephoto lens. Lupe had climbed it earlier from the R.

SPHP stopped briefly at km 64 again, where Lupe had started her trek up Swede Dome. The weather had improved so much that Loop could now see from the highway the views to the W that had been hidden when she’d been way up on Swede Dome.

Lupe returns to km 64 of the Top of the World Highway. Photo looks WSW.

9:23 PM, km 106 – Too late! Lupe arrived at Alaska/Yukon border to find the customs station and gates closed. Only open 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM. Loop was going to have to wait until morning to enter Alaska for the first time on this Dingo Vacation.

No problem! SPHP drove back E a couple of km to a high ridge where a big pullout was on the S side of the Top of the World Highway. The American Dingo could spend the night right here! The customs station at the border was in view, so Lupe could even monitor any activity.

Heh! Maybe not. Minutes later, the fog rolled in once more.

The customs station on the Alaska/Yukon border is in view past Lupe’s head on the side of the far ridge. Photo looks NW.

*Let’s see, two domes done today. Three, if I get to count Midnight Dome again.*

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Mount Fairplay & Chicken, Alaska to the Top of The World Highway & Dawson City, Yukon Territory (9-2-17 & 9-3-17)

Days 34 & 35 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

9-2-17, 9:30 AM – Overslept! Good grief. For once it hadn’t rained at all overnight. Most of the morning sky was blue. Maybe the weather really was improving? Easy to get fooled in Alaska, though. SPHP was far from certain it wouldn’t rain later in the day. Should Lupe stick around Palmer, or not? SPHP pondered the question while buying supplies at the new Fred Meyer store.

11:02 AM, 50°F – No, Lupe wasn’t going to stay. The day was already looking hazier than “early” on. The Carolina Dog was going to leave Palmer seeking more reliable skies elsewhere. September was here. Maybe she would find fairer weather in the Yukon? Her time in glorious Alaska was about up. Sad, but true. Lupe stared out the window of the G6, as SPHP drove out of Palmer on Glen Highway No. 1.

The day was spent traveling. SPHP made a number of stops along the way so Loop could stretch her legs, and spend a few minutes appreciating the beauty of Alaska.

Lupe enjoys a view of the **Copper River** from a pullout along the Tok Cut-off near Gakona.

Another look at the **Copper River**, this time looking downstream.

Lupe on the Tok Cut-Off bridge over the **Chistochina River**. Photo looks SE.

Spectacular **Mount Sanford** is in view beyond the **Chistochina River**. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

Zoomed in on **Mount Sanford (16,237 ft.)** from the Chistochina River bridge. Photo looks SE.

Looking N up the **Chistochina River** from the Tok Cut-Off bridge.

After fueling the G6 in Tok (5:43 PM, 58°F), SPHP drove ESE on the Alaska Highway. A dozen miles later, Lupe crossed the bridge over the Tanana River. A couple of miles beyond the river, SPHP left the Alaska Highway turning N on Taylor Highway No. 5 at Tetlin Junction.

The persistent sense of sadness over being on the way out of Alaska that SPHP had felt ever since leaving Palmer disappeared immediately. Lupe had never been this way before! This was all new territory to explore. Suddenly the evening possessed an air of excitement and discovery.

Lupe was no longer near jagged or massive Alaskan peaks of the sort she had been seeing most of the afternoon. Even so, Taylor Highway No. 5 was an interesting and beautiful drive. The highway was paved, had virtually no traffic, and wound its way N through rounded hills and ridges of stunted, spindly forests.

After 15 miles or so, from a high point, Lupe caught sight of something exciting! Still far to the NNE, an impressive hill stood alone, clearly much higher than anything else around. SPHP parked the G6 at a large pullout, so Lupe could get out for a better look at it.

Roughly 15 miles from Tetlin Junction, SPHP stopped at a pullout along Taylor Highway No. 5 so Lupe could get out of the G6 for a better look at the impressive high hill seen on the L. Photo looks NNE.

The mysterious towering hill was a mountain, really, yet it was gently rounded, not jagged. Why, Lupe could climb that peak easily enough! Immediately, the desire to see Loopster reach the top of the mighty hill seized SPHP. If the Taylor Highway would bring the American Dingo close enough to it to make an attempt possible, Lupe was going to try it!

SPHP immediately resolved that if Taylor Highway No. 5 would bring Lupe close enough to this mysterious towering hill, she was going to climb it!

Continuing on, Taylor Highway No. 5 did wend its way ever closer to the mysterious hill! Before long, it became apparent the highway was going to pass along the lower W slopes of the mountain. As Lupe drew near, SPHP parked at a pullout on the hill’s long SW ridge. The summit was still some miles away.

It was far too late in the day to consider an ascent now. Lupe and SPHP started up the SW ridge, anyway. The Carolina Dog wasn’t going far. SPHP just wanted to see what the terrain was like, and what sort of obstacles Loop might encounter.

Lupe climbed for only 8 or 9 minutes, sniffing and exploring a forest of spindly, dead trees. The trees were thin and small, and hadn’t amounted to much even when alive. The ground was spongy tundra, but fairly dry. A few rocks, a little deadfall, a moderately steep slope. That was about it for obstacles. SPHP was certain Lupe could climb this hill.

View of E Alaska from the first pullout Looper stopped at near the mysterious high hill. This was beautiful, remote territory. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe on her short exploratory excursion up the mysterious hill’s long SW ridge. Taylor Highway No. 5 continues N beyond her. Photo looks N.

Loop’s brief initial excursion quickly convinced SPHP that the Carolina Dog shouldn’t have any problems climbing this mysterious hill. Photo looks S.

Lupe’s initial exploration was encouraging! Returning to the G6, SPHP drove farther N on Taylor Highway No. 5 looking for the closest point from which Loop could begin an ascent tomorrow morning. The road was about as high on the mountain as it was going to get at about milepost 32.9. SPHP again parked the G6 at a nearby pullout.

Looper made a second exploratory excursion up the slope overlooking the highway. The top of the mountain was in view another 2,000 feet higher. A nearby band of live trees and high bushes appeared to be the only significant obstacle. Lupe ought to be able to get through that easily enough.

Lupe sits on the slope where she would begin her ascent of the mysterious mountain in the morning. The summit (L) was still 2,000 feet above her. The nearby trees and tall bushes looked like the only real obstacle. Lupe shouldn’t have any problem getting through that! Photo looks E.

The tundra colors were striking in the evening light. Lupe and SPHP stood admiring the beauty of the mountainside, and the amazing views of E Alaska.

The colorful tundra was strikingly beautiful in the evening light. Taylor Highway No. 5 is seen winding its way along the W slopes of the mysterious mountain Lupe intended to climb. Photo looks SSW.

A roasted chicken SPHP had bought this morning back in Palmer served as dinner in the G6. Loop enjoyed the chicken feast, then spent the last hour of the evening sniffing excitedly in the jungle of tall bushes by the pullout where the G6 was parked. Meanwhile, SPHP gathered up trash careless travelers had strewn about.

The sky was 90% clear as twilight began to fade. (9:21 PM) Hopes were high for a successful ascent in the morning. After dark, a 3/4 yellow moon rose over the mountain’s ridge.

9-3-17 – Lupe and SPHP woke hours later to see an orange moonset. It seemed very late. The Carolina Dog went out to sniff the air. For the first time in a month, the night sky was clear. Looper could see stars, but only the brightest ones. The night wasn’t very dark. Long stretches of the N sky were brighter than elsewhere. Was that the Northern Lights? The bright streaks didn’t seem to be moving or changing.

Satisfied with her sniffing, Lupe returned to the G6 to continue snoozing. SPHP wasn’t terribly sleepy, and sat watching the night sky off and on for a couple of hours. The bright patches of sky below the Big Dipper were indeed the Northern Lights. They changed only slowly, gradually, except for one 10 or 15 minute period when the lights did suddenly dance and flash.

Perhaps not a particularly good display of Northern Lights for Alaska, but the best SPHP had ever seen. Certainly worth seeing, too. Something primal about it, especially when observed here so alone, so remote in E Alaska with Lupe resting peacefully nearby.

6:21 AM, 33°F, clear, calm – Lupe and SPHP sat sharing English muffins and cheese for breakfast. The heater was on in the G6 to take the chill off. The sun wasn’t up yet, but it was light enough out. Loopster was in luck this morning! The weather had held. She would soon be on her way up the mysterious mountain.

7:04 AM, 33°F, clear, a light breeze – Loop was on her way! She climbed steadily. The band of trees and tall bushes slowed SPHP down, but Lupe was soon above it. She was up on a broad ridge which became increasingly rocky as she gained elevation, but for a long way there was spongy tundra. In many places, the tundra was wet or boggy. Nothing new about that. This area wasn’t particularly challenging compared to other places the American Dingo had been.

Lupe starts her early morning journey up the mysterious mountain. She’s already well above the band of trees and large bushes here. Photo looks NW.

Above the trees and bushes, it was easy to see where to go. Lupe headed for a high saddle between the summit and a rocky prominence on the mountain’s S ridge. The only factor limiting her progress was how fast SPHP could manage to trudge up the long slope. Lupe had plenty of time to roam and explore as she pleased.

It was easy to see which way to go. Lupe headed for the high saddle seen straight up from her. Photo looks SE.

Lupe had plenty of time to roam and explore as she pleased, while SPHP trudged slowly higher.

The upper slopes of the mountain were strewn with rock. Lupe was able to avoid nearly all that sort of terrain while proceeding up to the saddle (far R). Photo looks E.

Although the sky was clear or covered only by high thin clouds, the air was hazy. Lupe could see a long way, but the distant views weren’t as clear and crisp as they might have been. Still, the American Dingo was fortunate to have as good a day as this one.

Despite mostly clear skies, the morning became a bit hazy. Looking down the long SW ridge after Lupe had gained considerable elevation. Taylor Highway No. 5 is seen below on the R. Photo looks SSW.

After a considerable climb, Lupe reached the high saddle she had been striving for S of the summit. The saddle was broad, fairly rocky, but also had a fair amount of tundra vegetation. Movement was still quite easy. Loop had only a few hundred feet of elevation gain left to reach the top of the mountain. It didn’t look like it would be hard to get there.

The broad saddle S of the summit was rocky, but there was still enough vegetation around to make travel far easier than an endless rock hop would have been. Photo looks S.

Once Lupe reached the high saddle, she only had a few hundred feet of elevation left to gain to reach the top of the mountain. It didn’t look hard at all. Photo looks NNE.

The climb to the mysterious mountain’s summit was cake. Even the rocky stretches near the top weren’t bad. The rocks were of moderate size. No problem picking a route up through them. Soon structures on top of the mountain that had been faintly visible from the highway were coming into view. Looper was almost there!

Structures that had been faintly visible from down at the highway came into view again as Lupe neared the summit. She was almost there! Photo looks N.

Lupe had done it! She arrived at the top of the mysterious mountain. The summit area was large and quite flat, longer N/S than E/W. Most of the summit was strewn with small to medium size dark colored rocks. A small ridge of dark rock close to the SE end of the summit area E of the first structures looked like the true summit. The diminutive ridge was only slightly higher than the rest of the summit.

Of course, Lupe went right on over to the true summit to claim her latest peakbagging success!

Lupe stands on the rock pile that appeared to be the true summit of the mysterious mountain to claim her peakbagging success. Photo looks ESE.

Lupe at the true summit. A majority, perhaps 75%, of the summit area is in view. Photo looks N.

Lupe’s success in reaching the top of this mountain in E Alaska was very satisfying in several ways. When Lupe left home on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP had brought along a list of peakbagging possibilities and a few other activities she might find worthwhile.

Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) N of the Brooks Range was the only other mountain Lupe had climbed that wasn’t on this premeditated list. The spontaneity of discovering this prominent peak only yesterday, then climbing it this morning without the aid of any roads, trails, or maps was really fun. Such an unexpected treat! SPHP didn’t even know what mountain Lupe was on.

Another cool thing was that this mountain felt so alone and remote. Yesterday evening, Lupe had climbed Bodenburg Butte (886 ft.) near Palmer. She’d had great views from there, but it really wasn’t much of a feat. The butte wasn’t all that high, and was frequently climbed being so close to Alaska’s major population centers. SPHP was glad this much higher and more remote peak was now destined to be the last mountain Lupe would climb in Alaska, instead of little Bodenburg Butte.

SPHP expressed such joy and enthusiasm over Lupe’s successful ascent, that Looper got into the spirit of it all, too. She began to think maybe she ought to re-enact the final moments of her trek to the top. After all, she had become the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood on this trip. Perhaps this moment ought to be preserved for posterity and the Arctic Sisterhood’s archives?

*Yes! This is how I did it, coming right up this S side of the mountain from far below!*

After the glorious re-enactment was complete, Lupe and SPHP wandered around exploring the summit. The most dramatic mountains Loopster could see from here were a line of high white ones far to the SW. They were so far away, the haze made them difficult to see very well without help from the camera’s telephoto lens.

The highest mountains that could be seen were so far away, it took assistance from the camera’s telephoto lens to get a good look at them. Photo looks SW.

Hills, ridges, and mountains as high as the one Lupe was on could be seen in most directions, but they were all many miles away. This lone mountain dominated a large area.

Lupe along the E edge of the summit area. It was a long way down from here! Photo looks SE.

Looking NE along the E edge of the summit.

While exploring the summit, Lupe made a discovery that solved a key mystery. On a rock close to the N edge, she found a survey benchmark. The benchmark was stamped with the hitherto unknown name of the mountain she was on.

Loopster near the N end of the summit area, close to where she made a discovery that revealed the name of this mountain she had climbed. Photo looks S.

Lupe stands on the rock bearing the survey benchmark she found. The benchmark is seen behind her R rear paw. Photo looks N.

Mystery solved! Lupe was on **Mount Fairplay**!

Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.)! SPHP had never heard of it before, but that was where Lupe was right now. An interesting name. SPHP wondered how the mountain came by it, and if this name had a particular meaning or story behind it?

For a while, Loopster and SPHP sat together at the N end of the summit area surveying the scenery from the last mountain the American Dingo would climb in Alaska, at least on this Dingo Vacation.

Looking NNW from **Mount Fairplay**. Taylor Highway No. 5 heads N toward Chicken.

The survey benchmark Lupe had found was stamped No. 2. SPHP looked around for a No. 1, but didn’t have the same success Lupe did.

When Lupe had spent nearly an hour up on Mount Fairplay, it was time to think about moving on. The Carolina Dog would go back down using approximately the same route she came up. Before doing so, Loopster visited a big rock along the E edge of the summit area that appeared to be in contention for the title of true summit.

Before leaving Mount Fairplay, Looper visited this rock along the E edge of the summit area that appeared to be nearly as high as the small ridge SPHP considered to be the true summit. Photo looks S.

Lupe also returned to the true summit, which was nearby.

Lupe returns to the true summit of **Mount Fairplay**. Photo looks N.

Precisely an hour after she arrived on top of Mount Fairplay, Lupe began her descent from the SW end of the summit area. The descent was fun and relaxing, with beautiful views all the way down. The mountain’s dark rocks contrasted with yellows, golds, and reds of the tundra.

The Carolina Dog was wild and free, roaming wherever she pleased. She returned frequently to check on SPHP before dashing off to explore new mysteries borne on the breeze. Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) was Lupe’s last Alaskan adventure of 2017. She made the most of it, and had a wonderful time.

Looking SW from **Mount Fairplay** before starting the descent.

Precisely an hour after reaching the summit, Lupe begins her descent. Photo looks SSW.

Looking back at **Mount Fairplay** from the high saddle along the S ridge. Photo looks N.

The rocky knob at the S end of the high saddle. Lupe didn’t go all the way over there, though SPHP thought about it. She easily could have. Photo looks S.

Looking back at **Mount Fairplay** from below the high S saddle. Photo looks NNE.

**Mount Fairplay** was the last Alaskan peak Lupe climbed in 2017. She had a wonderful time! Photo looks NE.

Happy times in Alaska in fields of gold.

Busy, busy, all the way down! Photo looks N.

12:13 PM, 50°F – Mount Fairplay had been great fun, an excellent finale to Lupe’s 2017 adventures in Alaska! The Carolina Dog arrived back at the G6 only a little after noon. Time to head for Yukon Territory! Lupe and SPHP proceeded N on Taylor Highway No. 5.

The road was paved most of the time until Lupe got within 20 miles or so of Chicken. Then Taylor “Highway” No. 5 turned to rather rough gravel. Since Chicken was the last metropolis Lupe would visit in Alaska, SPHP stopped for fuel.

Lupe eagerly inspected the chickens in Chicken. Disappointingly, though gigantic, they didn’t look or sniff tasty at all. The enormous tasteless chickens appeared to be confined as suspects at a crime scene, judging by the yellow plastic tape encircling them.

Loopster arrives in Chicken, the last Alaskan metropolis she would visit in 2017.

Why the chickens were cordoned off in Chicken wasn’t clear, but Lupe joined them briefly. If these giant chickens hadn’t seemed so tasteless and bland, quite a ruckus might have ensued, though Lupe insisted to SPHP that 3 giant chickens were no match for a lone American Dingo.

Beyond Chicken, Taylor Highway No. 5 remained rough gravel. The road eventually started climbing steadily, reaching quite a height by the time the turn to Eagle appeared. Here, Lupe and SPHP left Taylor Highway No. 5 on a beautiful newly paved road. This road wound around high up on ridges for 12 miles, the rest of the way to customs at the Canadian border. Lupe crossed into Yukon Territory about 3:15 PM.

On the Canadian side, Lupe was now on the Top of the World Highway, a gravel road which goes 65 miles to the Yukon River at Dawson City.

After crossing the border into Canada, SPHP parked on a hill where Lupe could look back at the border crossing (blue buildings on the L). Photo looks NW.

On a hill just N of the top of the Top of the World Highway, Lupe found this massive cairn with a view of customs where she had just left Alaska to enter the Yukon. Photo looks NW.

Some miles into Canada, this sign was posted about the Top of the World Highway that Lupe was taking to Dawson City.

The Top of the World Highway was all gravel, and a bit rough for the G6 in spots, but was in good overall condition. Most of the way to Dawson City, it wound along a series of high ridges. Lupe was farther N in the Yukon Territory than she had ever been before. This was an area of rounded mountains and ridges separated by deep valleys.

SPHP drove slowly, both for the sake of the G6, and to enjoy the remote scenery. Every now and then, it was time to let Lupe out to stretch, and take an even more leisurely look at particularly beautiful sights.

From the Top of the World Highway, Lupe saw many mountains that looked easy to climb. SPHP didn’t know any way to get close enough to make such aspirations feasible.

The Top of the World Highway stayed high on a series of long ridges. Lupe had lovely Yukon Territory views along virtually the entire route to Dawson City.

Enticing distant mountains with help from the telephoto lens.

Nearby hills and ridges were separated by deep valleys.

The vivid colors seen on the hillsides this time of year were incredible!

The Top of the World Highway finally began coming down off the ridges as Lupe neared Dawson City. The highway ended on the W bank of the Yukon River. No bridge exists across the river here. Lupe would have to take the ferry to get over to Dawson City.

Fortunately, although the ferry would cease its 2017 operations later this month, it was still busy taking vehicles back and forth across the river this evening. Several other vehicles were in line, so there would be a bit of a wait. Lupe went down to the Yukon River for a look around.

Loop reaches the E end of the Top of the World Highway at the **Yukon River**. Dawson City is on the far bank. Photo looks SE.

What! No bridge? Lupe would have to take the ferry to get over to Dawson City.

This ferry is the only way for vehicles to cross the **Yukon River** at Dawson City. There was a bit of a wait for a turn, but no charge for taking the ferry.

Looking downstream before crossing the **Yukon River**. Photo looks NE.

Lupe enjoyed the ferry ride across the Yukon River. The Carolina Dog had never traveled by ferry before. The ferry was tame compared to the water taxi ride she’d taken from the Homer Spit across Kachemak Bay to climb Grace Ridge back in 2016.

Upon reaching the E bank, SPHP drove into Dawson City and parked. When Lupe got out of the G6, she wanted to go right back down to the Yukon River to see how things looked from this side.

Looking downstream (N) from the Dawson City side of the **Yukon River**. The ferry is in sight on the R.

Satisfied that the river looked quite similar from this bank, Lupe next visited the nearby SS Keno, a sternwheel paddle steamer preserved here in Dawson City for its historic significance.

Dawson City reminded SPHP of Skagway on a smaller scale. It was full of historic old buildings, shops, and restaurants. People were around, but it was already September. Overall, things were fairly quiet. Lupe dropped by the General Store, but it was closed.

The Dawson City General Store was closed when Lupe dropped by. Too bad! The fresh meats they were promoting sounded good to the American Dingo.

Dawson City must boast a gas station somewhere, but SPHP couldn’t find it. A driving tour of Dawson’s main streets didn’t turn one up. Hmm. About sundown, Lupe and SPHP left town heading E on the Klondike Highway. Expensive fuel was available at the intersection with the Dempster Highway. SPHP couldn’t afford to be too picky.

After fueling up, Lupe and SPHP set off on the Dempster Highway. Right away, Lupe crossed a bridge over the Klondike River. She made it only another 20 kilometers before the fading light signified that it was time to call it a day. Better get rested up! Tomorrow the American Dingo’s adventures would take her into Tombstone Territorial Park.

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Mount Fairplay near Chicken, Alaska (8-25-18)

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