Days 40 & 41 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-31-23, 9:06 AM, Kluane National Park & Reserve – Lupe arrived nearly an hour before the Thechal Dahl visitor centre opened. Not a soul was around. However, like yesterday, by the time the park rangers showed up, a small crowd had already gathered. No buses this morning, though.
SPHP was pumped!
Wait here in the RAV4, Loopster. I’ll be back as soon as I’ve had a chance to chat with one of the rangers. Just want to make certain that we ought to be able to cross Bullion Creek safely. If it’s a go, I’ll check out one of the clumsy bear-proof canisters, and we’ll be on our way to the Kaskawulsh Glacier and Observation Mountain (6,824 ft.)!
How long will we be gone, SPHP?
At least 3 days, more likely 4, Loop. It’s a bit of a march.
Sounds totally awesome, SPHP!
Oh, it will be, Looper! You can count on it! There’s a reason this has been on your list of possibilities for so many years.
8-31-23, 10:47 AM, Kluane National Park & Reserve – SPHP was back.
Where’s the bear-proof canister, SPHP? Did you forget it?
We aren’t going, Loopster.
What! Why not? That couple we met on the way to the Bullion Plateau yesterday said the rangers told them it was possible to cross Bullion Creek, if they just went downstream from where the Slims West trail reaches it.
Yes, that’s true. Still kind of a tough crossing from what I understand, but that’s not the problem, Loop.
What is then, SPHP? Are they out of bear-proof canisters?
I don’t think so. The problem is Canada Creek, the last creek before the Kaskawulsh Glacier. It’s been captured by the Alsek River, too! Canada Creek used to have a braided delta, so crossing it was no big deal back in 2016, but since then it has carved a channel concentrating all its flow in one fast-moving, frigid torrent.
We can’t cross it? How deep is Canada Creek, SPHP?
They tell me it’s waist deep! On me! We’re free to attempt it, if we want to, Loop, but at our own risk. The rangers strongly advise against it. Large groups that can help each other are having some success getting across Canada Creek, but most loners like us end up turning back.
Hate to miss out on the Kaskawulsh Glacier, SPHP, but I prefer adventures where I get to live to tell the tale.
Kind of how I feel about it, too, Sweet Puppy.
The Canada Creek news had come out of the blue. Nothing to be done about it. Time for Plan B! Less than 15 minutes later, Lupe was enjoying a brief romp along the S shore of Kluane Lake. Evidently this would be her last opportunity to see the big lake on this Dingo Vacation.
Instead of setting off on a grand adventure, this became a positioning day, which meant a long drive. In Whitehorse, SPHP purchased orange juice, a roasted chicken, doughnuts, and other supplies, then fueled up the RAV4. Other stops were few and far between. SE of Whitehorse, Lupe got to escape the RAV4 for a few minutes at the Alaska Highway bridge over the Yukon River, but that was about it.
8-31-23, 4:25 PM, 2 km from Jake’s Corner – The American Dingo stood on the pavement near the start of Atlin Highway No. 7. A mountain she’d been by many times was in sight.
That’s Mount White (5,016 ft.), isn’t it, SPHP?
Indeed it is, Loopster, or at least part of it.
Are we finally going to climb Mount White, SPHP? Is that why we’re here?
That’s the plan, Looper. Tomorrow, weather permitting!
Going to happen then, SPHP! The weather is beautiful here in the Yukon.
8-31-23, 4:56 PM – SPHP had driven right on by Mount White all the way to a favorite spot, a ridge with a view of the N end of Atlin Lake flanked by Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.) and Mount Minto (6,913 ft.). Between them, both Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.) and Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) were also in sight at the far end of the lake.
How about a romp through your favorite woods, Loopster?
The Carolina Dog was all for it! Excited and happy to be here, Lupe raced through the woods sniffing everything. SPHP kept an eye out for the strange, abandoned camp she’d found last year, but didn’t see it.
Lupe roamed farther N in these woods than she’d ever been before. She had a great time, arriving back at the RAV4 famished. Roasted chicken with a Busy Rib Hide for dessert! It doesn’t get much better than that!
A cool S wind was blowing, and the sky began clouding up as the sun sank toward the mountains.
9-1-23, the wee hours – The S breeze blew all night. Every time Lupe wanted out, clouds were sweeping past a waning, but still nearly full moon. SPHP found the moon reassuring. No drastic changes. The weather was going to be alright.
9-1-23, 7:17 AM – A gorgeous morning! Only a light breeze now. As Lupe enjoyed an early morning stretch, sunlight spread over Mount Minto. According to the Tlingit sign, they called it Kiyan.
Any roasted chicken left, SPHP?
Yeah, some. It’s what’s for breakfast, Loop.
The Carolina Dog was fine with that. SPHP guzzled some orange juice, too, then got the pack ready.
9-1-23, 9:03 AM, Atlin Highway No. 7 – Driving back N, SPHP turned R off the highway at the White Mountain sign. Lupe cooperated in a photo op at the sign, then hopped back into the RAV4. A short drive on a gravel side road quickly led to an empty trailhead.
Before hitting the trail, SPHP paused for a look at the dilapidated plaque on display. It took a moment to sink in.
Oh, good grief! Back into the RAV4, Loopster.
Why? What’s wrong, SPHP?
I’ve always just assumed from that sign out by the highway that this was the trailhead for the trail up Mount White. It isn’t! This trail is just an abandoned stretch of the old highway. It doesn’t go up the mountain. We’re at the wrong place, Looper!
Do you know where the trailhead we’re looking for is, SPHP?
Not exactly, but we can’t be too far from it, Loop. I remember now that the trail is supposed to leave a highway maintenance gravel yard from behind a generator. Can’t be too many places that would fit that description.
Returning to Atlin Highway No. 7, SPHP drove slowly N, watching for side roads toward the mountain. Right after passing a driveway for the Little Atlin Lodge on the L, another side road appeared on the R, directly opposite from an unofficial-looking Km 6 sign. A yellow metal gate 100 feet in on this wide gravel side road was closed, but there was plenty of room to park the RAV4 near the highway.
This might be it, Looper. Let’s have a look.
9-1-23, 9:27 AM, 56ºF – Walking past the yellow gate, machinery could be heard as Lupe followed the broad side road on an uphill curve to the L (E). Around this first corner, the road immediately entered a large, flat gravel yard. No one was around. The sound was coming from over by a large white shed sitting up on a slightly elevated area off to the L (N).
That must be where the generator is, Looper.
Sure looks like we must be in the right place now, SPHP.
Venturing up to the shed, at first, SPHP didn’t see any sign of a trail. A more careful look then revealed a 4 foot tall metal post down the slope behind the shed right along the edge of the gravel yard. No sign was on the post, but a trail disappeared down into the trees right next to it.
We’re in business, SPHP!
The Mount White trail started off dipping 15 feet down into the forest, where it immediately crossed a small stream. A 3″ diameter electrical cable sheathed in pink insulation was suspended over the creek. The American Dingo helped herself to a drink, then, passing right under the overhanging cable, began following the trail N.
Beyond the stream, the pink cable ran right along the ground. The trail never strayed far from it during a long, aggressive climb directly up a ridge with virtually no switchbacks. Early on, Lupe traveled through a stretch of aspens, but most of the time she was in a spruce forest.
At first, there were no views, or only tree-broken glimpses. Lupe gained hundreds of feet of elevation before reaching the first open area. From here, she already had a terrific view of Little Atlin Lake, and the gravel yard far below.
Heading back into the forest, the steep climb continued. After gaining 800 or 900 feet of elevation, Lupe came to another opening. The views were even better here. At the upper end of this clearing, Lupe faced a 10 to 15 foot near-vertical, rocky scramble. She was up it in a flash without any assistance from SPHP.
After gaining roughly 1,200 feet of elevation, the forest began to thin out. Lupe came to more and more rocky open spots with grand views. By now, the trail’s aggressive rate of climb was beginning to diminish. The microwave tower powered by the generator via the pink electrical cable eventually appeared up ahead. It was still quite a bit higher, but the Carolina Dog was making good progress toward it.
Just before reaching the microwave tower, Lupe came to a flat region with a sweeping view of Little Atlin Lake. Virtually the entire lake was now in sight!
Beyond the N end of Little Atlin Lake, the American Dingo could even see the S end of Marsh Lake.
Marsh Lake is the source of the Yukon River, isn’t it, SPHP?
Yup. That’s right, Loopster. The Tagish River is the main one flowing into Marsh Lake. It’s officially the Yukon River leaving Marsh Lake. See that highest peak beyond Marsh Lake? You’ve been there!
I have? What peak is it, SPHP?
That’s Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.), Looper.
Mount Lorne! Where we met Greg and Svetlana. They were so nice!
Yes, they were. It’s also where we got lost in the bushes on the way back.
Going on up to the microwave tower, Lupe spent a few minutes sniffing around. Two bins made of logs were near the tower. These bins were connected to each other, and full of huge rocks.
Strange! What are these bins for, SPHP?
I don’t know, Loop. Maybe ballast holding in place some underground support structure for the tower?
A helicopter pad was nearby, too. The Carolina Dog ventured up onto it, but no helicopters came to whisk her away to Mount White’s summit.
Sorry, Loopster. We’re going to have to walk.
That was no longer such a big deal. Lupe had already gained nearly 2,000 feet of elevation, and had less than another 500 feet to go. The Mount White trail continued beyond the microwave tower, still quite steep for a few hundred more feet, before getting easier as it wound through a shallow valley among bushes and stunted trees bordered by large outcroppings of light gray rock.
Making a final short ascent, the trail climbed out of the valley. Lupe reached smooth bedrock. Directly ahead, a cluster of white stones sat atop a highpoint.
9-1-23, 11:52 AM, 52ºF – Although the sun was shining, a 10 mph SW breeze felt chilly as Lupe reached Mount White’s premier viewpoint.
Congratulations, Loop! You’ve reached Mount White’s most scenic spot!
Thank you, SPHP, but “most scenic spot”? That’s terrific news, but are you implying that we have more mountain to climb?
SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.
Heh. If you only knew, Sweet Puppy. Yeah, we’ve got a long way to go yet. Mount White (5,016 ft.) is gigantic! See that high point 0.25 km off to the E? It’s clearly higher than we are here, and that’s just Mount White’s SW subpeak. The true summit is somewhere way off to the NE.
Like how far NE do you mean, SPHP? I don’t even see it!
Like nearly 5 km NE of that SW summit as the crow flies, Looper. Longer the way we’ll have to go. It’s not that much higher, only a couple hundred feet. I can’t tell which hill out there is it yet, either.
More than 5 km? We’ll be needing extra energy to do all that, SPHP. Break out the chocolate coconut bar!
Only brought one, Loop, and we’re saving it for the true summit. How about a Cliff cool mint bar, instead?
The cool mint bar was an acceptable substitute. When it was gone, SPHP shared beef jerky and water with Lupe, then sat munching on peanuts while admiring the tremendous views. In addition to Marsh Lake and the N end of Atlin Lake, both the N and S ends of Little Atlin Lake were in sight, although some of the middle wasn’t. Mount Lorne was easily identifiable off to the NW.
Nares Mountain (5,833 ft.) and Montana Mountain (7,233 ft.), two other peaks Lupe had been to before, may have been in view far to the SW, but even if they were, SPHP didn’t recognize them.
To the E, the terrain consisted of rumpled highlands, only a bit lower, with a line of silver cliffs visible far to the ENE. SPHP wondered if the high point above them might be the true summit of Mount White? Hopefully, not. It seemed incredibly far away.
The best view of all was the one to the S, where Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) rose beyond the S end of Little Atlin Lake.
Mount Minto! That’s another one that’s been on your list of possibilities for years, Loopster.
I know! Are we ever going to climb Kiyan, SPHP?
You speak Tlingit now, too, Loop? I’d love to, but rather doubt it. We’d need an affordable way to get across the N end of Atlin Lake. Haven’t found one yet.
40 minutes had already flown at this viewpoint, and Mount White was on today’s agenda, not Mount Minto. If Lupe was ever going to get to the true summit, she’d better be on her way.
Mount White SW Peak (4,790 ft.) is next, Loop. Onward! Puppy, ho!
The territory leading to the SW peak was a rolling landscape of grass, tundra, low bushes, and light gray rock outcroppings, a beautiful, easy romp. On the way there, Lupe came across a bright red patch of alpine bearberries.
9-1-23, 12:45 PM, Mount White SW Peak (4,790 ft.) – Next to a cairn, Lupe stood at the top of a small, stony highpoint. It had taken her only 10 minutes to get here.
Good job, Loop! What do you see up there? Any sign of Mount White’s true summit?
I see a lot of territory, SPHP. No obvious true summit, though. Come on up, and see for yourself.
SPHP did. Looking NE along the sharp edge of the massive Mount White plateau, an undramatic hill way over at the far end appeared to be at least a little higher than anywhere else on the plateau.
That hill must be it, Looper. At least, that’s what it looks like from here.
Doesn’t look like much, SPHP. Not even very rocky. Sure is a long way off, though.
Well, the true summit is either there, or way over by those silvery cliffs, which are even farther away. In any case, we better keep going, Loop.
After spending only a few minutes at the SW peak, the American Dingo left it again, heading SE while slowly losing elevation along a ridge. To the E, a very interesting region was in view. Beyond a valley that Lupe was going to have to cross, she saw many low hills of light gray rock. A somewhat lower region toward the S was dotted with trees.
So pretty! That looks like such fun territory to explore, doesn’t it, Loop?
We’ll have a blast, SPHP!
Wrong! Well, not completely.
It started out well. Losing 200 feet of elevation during a steeper descent from the ridge into the valley, instead of heading for the gray hills, which would have been by far the better choice, SPHP led Lupe toward the somewhat lower region dotted with trees. At first, it wasn’t bad, but as the Carolina Dog pressed on toward the E, more and more dense thickets of bigger and bigger bushes appeared.
This was beautiful country, but one that became an increasingly difficult struggle to move through efficiently. It didn’t help at all that the 100 foot contours on the topo map hid a lot of up and down along the way.
A second significant valley had to be crossed as Lupe made her way E. She managed to reach the bottom a little N of the narrow valley’s high point, finding the valley itself nearly bush-free. However, after going S to the saddle and turning E again, another difficult bushwhack ensued while trying to get to the top of the next ridge.
Persistence paid off. Lupe managed to reach the ridge line. Instead of chest high on SPHP, the bushes were much shorter up here, only a foot or two high, with firm tundra in some areas between them. To the N, a series of slightly higher small hills was ahead.
Sheesh! When am I ever going to learn, Looper? In the far N, it’s almost always best to avoid vegetation. Bushes, tussocks, Devil’s club, hidden bogs, spongy tundra, it’s always some tale of woe! We should have come through those rocky gray hills. We will on the way back. I can guarantee you that!
You live, yet never learn, SPHP. I’ve had to get used to it.
Happily, while Lupe still had quite a way to go yet, the difficult part of the journey was over. All that was necessary now was to stay on the high ground, avoiding any tall bushes.
Heading N along the hilly ridge crest, the true summit of Mount White, which had been out of sight for a long time, came back into view. By now, SPHP was certain the hill to the NE was it. Thankfully, it wasn’t clear over by the silvery cliffs, which were still impossibly far away.
The trek N was fun! Low bushes, and scattered patches of taller ones, did little to impede progress. Much of the time, Lupe was racing across firm tundra, running and sniffing to her heart’s delight. At one point she clearly sniffed something interesting off to the W, repeatedly raising her nose to the air, then staring off that way. However, nothing appeared, and the scenic journey continued.
Saving time, Lupe didn’t hit all the high points while crossing the vast rolling plateau, but stayed high enough to avoid any serious vegetation. Turning E, a final gradual descent to a broad saddle got her to only a moderately steep climb up a long tundra slope. Cake all the way!
9-1-23, 4:21 PM, 50ºF, Mount White (5,016 ft.) – Next to a white rock, Lupe sat in a chilly 15-20 mph SW wind. That foot high rock, situated on a fairly flat region of tundra with other white rocks scattered about, was the true summit of Mount White.
SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.
Congratulations, Loopster! We made it!
Thank you, SPHP. Now about that chocolate coconut bar. Seems long overdue!
Fine! But let’s get out of this cold wind, first.
Although the best views were S and W, SPHP retreated a little down the NE slope before taking a seat on the tundra. After sharing the one and only chocolate coconut bar, beef jerky, and water with Lupe, she curled up on SPHP’s lap.
Facing NE away from wind, conditions were reasonably pleasant. Lupe was very interested in the beautiful Yukon scene stretched out before her. Looking down a long tundra slope, she scanned a broad region of highlands on Mount White’s NE flank for signs of movement. SPHP’s gaze was drawn more toward lines of nameless dark blue mountains on the horizon. Looking E, the silvery cliffs were still 6 km away.
SPHP drank a vanilla Equate, polished off the peanuts, then worked on the trail mix. Not to be outdone, Lupe gobbled up the rest of her Taste of the Wild, and had more water. Then for a long while, it felt good sitting there together, simply staring out into space, enjoying the Yukon.
Of course, that could only last so long.
Nearly picture time, Loopster. We better have a look at some of these other magnificent views while we’ve got the chance.
30 feet N of the true summit, quite a few white rocks were over near 4 short wooden stakes that formed a rectangle. An old survey pin was among them.
Little Atlin Lake couldn’t be seen from here, but Marsh Lake was in view to the NW. Lupe could still see Mount Lorne, too.
Almost due W, the Alaska Highway was 2,500 feet below. Jake’s Corner at the junction with Tagish Road, which goes to Carcross, was in sight.
Although Little Atlin Lake wasn’t in view, both Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) and Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.) were, with the N end of Atlin Lake sandwiched between them.
Kiyan is still my favorite view from Mount White, SPHP. We’ve had a lot of fun in the Atlin Lake region over the years!
Mount Minto is my favorite, too, Loopster. And guess what? If all goes well, we’ve got other big adventures coming up down that way.
On this Dingo Vacation, SPHP?
Yep! You’ll see!
While Mount Minto may have been the unanimous favorite, another view was rapidly becoming the most pertinent. Off to the SW, Jubilee Mountain (5,951 ft.), among the closest peaks on the far side of unseen Little Atlin Lake, stood out beyond Mount White’s SW Peak.
Hate to say it, Loop …
Oh, I know, SPHP! It’s a long way back, and getting to be about that time.
9-1-23, 5:11 PM – 50 minutes after arriving, the American Dingo sat alone in the wind, enjoying her final moments at Mount White’s true summit. Glancing back to the NW, she saw SPHP give the signal to come.
The first part of the return was so much fun! Encouraged by SPHP, Lupe hit some of the high points skipped during the ascent. As a result, she journeyed mostly along tundra, making travel fast and easy. Once back to the region where she’d sniffed something out there, the Carolina Dog began raising her nose in the air, and staring off to the W again.
She knew!
Lupe never saw them, but, this time, SPHP did.
Progress slowed once the descent into the region of bushes began. On the way down to the narrow bush-free valley, Lupe succeeded in finding more open routes, making the bushwhack easier than before. Trying to climb NW back out of the valley was another matter, though.
On a steep slope, an incredibly dense thicket of bushes taller than SPHP was such a struggle to push through. At a particularly difficult point, SPHP gave a mighty shove, attempting to squeeze by. The bushes gave an even mightier shove back, sending SPHP into an uncontrolled fall backwards.
SPHP! Are you all right?
Didn’t hurt. Not at all, because SPHP never hit the ground. Cushioned by the bushes below, SPHP was left hanging upside down with the pack wedged in among them, thrashing around like a beetle or turtle that had been flipped over, unable to regain its feet.
Yes, of course, I’m alright, Loop. Couldn’t hurt myself here, if i tried, but I can’t get up!
Well, you look ridiculous, SPHP!
No doubt. My brainpower may be increasing, though. All my blood is pooling in my head.
After repeated failures, SPHP finally did manage to escape the bushes’ grasp, and that was about the end of the worst of it. The terrible struggle didn’t go on much farther. Lupe managed to find an open lane leading above and beyond the tallest bushes.
Although the sun was in SPHP’s eyes, making it almost impossible to see, the journey became easier when the American Dingo reached tundra on the way to the gray hills along the 4,700 foot ridge E of Mount White’s SW Peak. Once there, the rocky terrain made for easy travel.
Lupe tagged Mount White SW Peak (4,790 ft.) again, but lingered only a few minutes. The sun was sinking into the clouds as she hurried on.
9-1-23, 8:42 PM – Back at Mount White’s premier viewpoint, the evening views were even more amazing. A golden glow was in the clouds, while the big lakes below were a shimmering silver among a darkening land.
We should stay and watch the sunset, SPHP. Might be truly amazing!
I’d love to, Loopster, but don’t want to take on the steep descent in the dark. That one near-vertical scramble in particular worries me. Besides, there are a lot of clouds around. Chances are the sun will just sink into them, and be lost from view without producing much of a sunset. This may be as good as it gets.
Several more minutes appreciating the awesome views, and Lupe was reluctantly on her way.
A fair amount of light was still in the sky as Lupe reached the microwave tower again, but it faded quickly during the subsequent steep descent. As usual, SPHP was as slow as molasses on the steepest sections. The growing gloom of twilight made the descent seem faintly dangerous.
It turned out that SPHP’s concerns about the short, vertical scramble in the dark were not justified. Exploring a bit E, Lupe managed to avoid the whole thing without difficulty. The Carolina Dog was already below the scramble when she stopped and looked.
Told you, SPHP! We should have stayed up on Mount White!
Off to the NW, beyond the N end of Little Atlin Lake, beyond Marsh Lake, even beyond Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.), a scene of rapidly fading glory! The sky was on fire. Awestruck, both Lupe and SPHP stood watching.
Moments later it was gone. Nothing remained, other than the steep, dark descent through the black forest. (End 10:38 PM, 55ºF)
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Tracks: (Ascent) (Descent)
Mount Lorne, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-11-19)
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