Part 2 of Day 24, Day 25 & Part 1 of Day 26 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-14-23, 3:00 PM – After leaving Inuvik, the Mackenzie River delta was in sight off to the W, but before long the river and Hwy 10 angled away from each other. As the RAV4 cruised along at a comfortable 35 to 40 mph, the mutual potato chip feast went on until Lupe didn’t want any more. SPHP then switched to orange juice and Allsorts licorice.
Outside, the weather was a balmy 50°F, with low clouds hanging across the sky from horizon to horizon. Passing through a region of numerous lakes, Hwy 10 stayed up on the high ground, to the extent that there was any, as much as possible. A thin boreal forest soon vanished completely. Low bushes and tundra covered the land.
Back in 2018, Lupe had seen many people picking berries in this region, but no one was out there today. Instead, the Carolina Dog saw groups of snowmobiles sitting alone on the tundra, their controls wrapped in tarps or plastic, apparently pre-positioned for winter’s eventual arrival.
We’re doing great, Loopster! Heard a lot of people complaining about how bad this highway was. So terribly washboardy and rough that some even turned around. Isn’t bad at all in the RAV4, though. Bumpy sections and potholes every now and then, but that’s true of most any gravel road.
How far is it to Tuktoyaktuk from Inuvik, SPHP?
Oh, I’ve seen figures anywhere from 140 to nearly 150 km, Loop. Think I saw a sign as we left Inuvik that said 148. A couple of hours at this rate, and we’ll be there.
As the journey N continued, the lakes visible in all directions tended to get larger and more numerous. Despite a fair amount of truck traffic, and lack of pullouts, SPHP parked briefly by the side of the road every now and then, so Lupe could get out to sniff the air and look around.
A really big lake eventually appeared off to the E.
Is that the ocean, SPHP?
Technically, probably not, Looper. The maps show a string of big lakes called the Eskimo or Husky Lakes that are all interconnected. It appears they drain NE into Liverpool Bay, which is an arm of the Beaufort Sea. Even if they aren’t part of the ocean, they can’t be much above sea level.
After a while, even the Eskimo Lakes were left behind. SPHP continued to stop briefly near lakes that had particularly interesting shapes.
When small hills began appearing in the distance, Lupe’s journey N was almost over. The American Dingo had reached the land of the pingos.
8-14-23, 5:10 PM – The only pullout along Hwy 10 appeared roughly 10 km from Tuktoyaktuk. Lupe could already see Ibyuk Pingo, the second highest pingo on earth from here. Displays included a map, and a list of services available in Tuktoyaktuk.
The map was interesting. However, overcome by weariness after many long days of Lupe adventures, what SPHP needed most of all was not a map, but a nap.
8-14-23, 7:24 PM – A couple hours of blissful unconsciousness had SPHP feeling much more alert. A mile or 2 past the only Hwy 10 pullout, Lupe was now at the “Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk – Land of the Pingos” sign for the first time in 5 years. Both Ibyuk Pingo and Split Pingo were in sight across Tareoknitok Lagoon.
It’s great being back in the Land of the Pingos, SPHP!
Absolutely, Loop! It’s a world that’s seldom seen. Shall we head into Tuk?
As far N as we can go, SPHP!
Pingo Canadian Landmark was just a bit farther. After another quick look at the pingos from the boat launch, Lupe’s next stop on the way into Tuktoyaktuk was more discouraging. Near the edge of the ocean, within view of the pingos, flocks of seagulls and ravens were busy picking through the unsightly discarded refuse of the human race.
Are you humans ever going to do anything about this, SPHP? It’s a really bad introduction to Tuktoyaktuk. Will it be this way forever?
I don’t know, Loopster. The best that can be said about it is that at least we haven’t pitched it all in the ocean yet. Maybe it can still be cleaned up some fine day, but who knows when?
The dump right by the ocean on the way into Tuktoyaktuk was nothing new. It had been here in 2018, too. During the drive through town, the rest of Tuk didn’t initially look much different, either. However, there were some changes. A new visitor center was on the R before entering the village, and the old one at the N end of Beaufort Road overlooking the Arctic Ocean had been removed to make room for more campsites.
8-14-23, 8:01 PM, Tuktoyaktuk campground, N end of Beaufort Road – This was it, the end of the line! Parked near the group shelter, the RAV4 was as far N as the road went anywhere in Canada. Back in 2018, the year after Hwy 10 opened, camping or overnight parking here was free. Now it was a cool $63.00 CAN.
Let’s have a look around Loopster!
There were still benches, picnic tables, and campfire barrels overlooking the Arctic Ocean, but SPHP was surprised to see that the large amount of driftwood that had been here in 2018, carried in on the currents, winds, and waves from the Mackenzie River delta, had vanished. Other than a few big, weather-beaten logs, scarcely a stick left!
Our Lady of Lourdes was still parked nearby, forlornly looking out over the Beaufort Sea which she had once plied, long, long ago.
Of course, the Arctic Ocean was the main attraction, in truth, the entire reason Lupe had come so far. Enjoying the view ocean view from the dark rocks and concrete slabs of the seawall was a must!
So awesome just being here, Looper!
Let’s do the walk along the beach, SPHP.
8-14-23, 9:20 PM, Tuktoyaktuk – The best walk along the ocean started farther S. Could have easily walked to the N end from the campground, but instead SPHP drove down to Grandma’s Kitchen, parking the RAV4 near the S end of Lupe’s 2018 traditional stroll along the Arctic Ocean.
No Dingo bans, access restrictions, or required guided tour fees here in Tuktoyaktuk, Canada like there were in Deadhorse, Alaska! At least, not yet. Lupe took full advantage. The entire walk along the beach was 0.8 mile one way. What a fabulous, rare treat!
No rush. Lupe sniffed here and there at will as little waves rippled ashore. Meanwhile, SPHP ambled along gathering a plastic grocery sack’s worth of trash, easily filling it long before the N end of the stroll was reached where the dark rocks of the seawall began. Once there, it was time to turn around and enjoy the incredible experience all over again on the way back to Grandma’s kitchen.
8-14-23, 10:00 PM, Tuktoyaktuk – Back at the campground, SPHP parked the RAV4 by some of the picnic tables.
C’mon, Loopster! Let’s hang around here for a while. Tide’s out! We can take the short walk out onto the spit where the locals like to fish.
Near the end of the spit, a girl named Lydia was very happy. She had just caught the first fish that she’d ever caught in her life. She very kindly permitted an American Dingo to inspect her prize.
Sniffs strongly of the sea, SPHP.
I’d be surprised, if it didn’t, Looper. I’m sort of jealous. Bigger than any fish I’ve ever caught.
8-15-23, 12:02 AM – Back in 2018, Lupe had spent a cold evening under her little brown blanket in the RAV4 while SPHP burned driftwood in one of the campground fire barrels. What an incredible experience that had been, huddling by the fire in the twilight while watching the wood burn and staring out at the surf rolling in from the Arctic Ocean.
Sadly, no driftwood around to burn now. Even so, the Carolina Dog hung around the campground until well past midnight. Mid-August, but still light out. Awesome!
8-15-23, 7:19 AM, 49ºF – A whole day to spend in Tuktoyaktuk! It began with a drive out to the Pingo Canadian Landmark. With the help of the telephoto lens, SPHP got a couple close ups of Ibyuk Pingo (161 ft.) and Split Pingo from across the lagoon.
I was hoping for a sunnier day, Looper. The pingos look a bit drab with all these clouds around.
Nothing to be done about that, SPHP. Let’s head back into Tuk. Time for my now traditional Tuktoyaktuk tour!
Returning to Hwy 10, a huge bird was sitting on top of a very tall post. To SPHP’s surprise, it didn’t fly off at the American Dingo’s approach.
Loopster! Come back! That bird means business!
What kind of bird is it, SPHP?
A hawk, or maybe an eagle? I don’t know, Loop. Might even be an osprey. Some kind of a raptor, that’s for sure. One that eats fish, and …
And Dingoes, SPHP?
Like I said, come back! We don’t want to find out.
Lupe’s tour of Tuktoyaktuk began with a look at some of the buildings seen along Hwy 10 on the way into town.
After driving through the center of town back to the campground at the N end of Beaufort Road, SPHP parked the RAV4. Lupe’s walking tour of Tuktoyaktuk began at the Trans Canada Trail monument marking the trail’s N terminus.
Before heading S, a quick look at the facilities at the end of the road was in order. Wandering past the restrooms and group shelter, Lupe visited the kmpost marker and an old sled, both near the start of the fishing spit where Lydia caught her big fish last night.
Satisfied without going clear out to the end of the spit, since the tide was coming in, the Carolina Dog now headed S along Beaufort Road, passing the campground sites overlooking the Arctic Ocean and Our Lady of Lourdes again.
A L turn onto Centennial Road led to a couple of sod houses.
Can you image facing a long Arctic winter in that, Looper? Grim!
Not as grim as not having a sod house, SPHP. I’ll take wintering in our house in the Black Hills over it any day, though.
Continuing to wander the side streets of Tuktoyaktuk, near the end of Liusa Road, Lupe took a shortcut over a hill that may have been a small pingo. Up here, she made a new friend. A local dog with a sore L rear paw decided to join the tour.
As Lupe and her new friend continued to explore the side streets of Tuk, everywhere they went, they triggered a chorus of protest from dogs that wanted to join the tour, but were tied up or otherwise confined.
It was getting to be a bit ridiculous. The American Dingo and her friend soon had all of Tuktoyaktuk howling in dismay. SPHP wasn’t entirely disappointed when this new friend finally decided it might be time to go back home, wherever that was, and Lupe reached the beach again near Grandma’s Kitchen.
As usual, the stroll along the tranquil, silvery sea was soothing, a treat for body and soul. This time, once Lupe got to the N end of the beach, she turned E to Beaufort Road before heading N past the cemetery.
8-15-23, 2:40 PM, 55ºF – The campground and day use area were almost empty when Lupe got back to the RAV4, which was parked at the highest spot facing the ocean. Watching the waves roll in while sharing sardines and Ritz crackers, the mood eventually turned more festive when a tour bus arrived.
Moving to a picnic table, SPHP munched on trail mix and chatted with other tourists. Lupe spent her time searching in vain for a marmot that knew the ins and outs of the passages between the rocks of the seawall.
8-15-23, 5:00 PM – SPHP woke from a pleasant hour long nap.
Campground’s filling up, SPHP.
Yeah, I see that, Loop. Guess we better move or pay for a spot before they kick us out.
Driving S out of Tuktoyaktuk to the new visitor center, SPHP came out with 2 certificates for Lupe.
8-15-23, 5:45 PM – SPHP parked the RAV4 at the empty ballfield.
Another stroll along the beach, Loop? Plenty of time for it.
How often are we in Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP? We better enjoy it to the utmost while we can.
Cutting over to the seawall rocks near the N end of the beach, the trek S to Grandma’s Kitchen began anew.
I don’t know how you do it, Loopster. Way too rocky for me to go barepaw here, but do you mind if I find a spot along these rocks where I can take my boots and socks off and stand in the Arctic Ocean for a few minutes?
Have at it, SPHP. You need to toughen those paws up.
I’ve been picking up a new rock for your rock collection every time we take this stroll, Looper. Let me know if you see one you like as we go along.
Good thinking, SPHP! Mind showing what you’ve got for me so far?
Two local girls made a couple of passes up and down the beach on an ATV. Other than that, the beach was deserted. The air was calm. Even the ocean barely had a ripple. Soft rays of light descended on the silver sea from weaknesses in the clouds. All too soon on this magical evening, Grandma’s Kitchen was in sight, and it was time to turn back again.
Halfway back to the N end of the beach, it was decision time.
OK, Loop. I’ve got 5 candidates for your rock collection. We’ve only done our beach stroll 3 times, so you can pick the 3 rocks you want to keep, and we’ll leave the others.
Do I have to keep the first 2 that you already showed me, SPHP?
Nope. Select the 3 you like best, Loopster.
They’re all unique and different from each other, SPHP.
That’s on purpose, Looper, so it’s a real choice. Made up your mind yet?
Yes.
And?
Let’s keep them all, SPHP. It’s a nice set, an Arctic Ocean sampler!
Well, why not? The price was right, and they were all just pebbles. Not like they were going to take up a lot of space, or weigh much.
The rest of the evening was spent up at the campground. SPHP chatted with the other tourists. Lupe had 2 dogs to play with, Beans and Mason, but they were both gigantic. Instead, the Carolina Dog preferred her pink blanket in the RAV4, growling whenever Beans or Mason got too close during their 3 hour frolic and wrestling match.
8-16-23, 8:15 AM, 46ºF – Foggy and a bit breezy, as Lupe set out from the baseball diamond to head over to the beach. This would be her last stroll along the Arctic Ocean to Grandma’s Kitchen. The tide was out, and on the way back, change was in the air. The fog dissipated, and it even seemed like the clouds were starting to break up.
Blue sky, SPHP!
Wow, you’re right, Loop! Is it possible we’ll get to see the sun before we leave Tuk?
Instead of returning to the RAV4 at the ball park when her final stroll along the Arctic Ocean was done, Lupe trotted N on Beaufort Road. Sure enough, the sun was shining by the time she passed the cemetery.
Upon reaching the campground, Lupe went all the way to the end of the fishing spit. The clouds were gone! For the first time since arriving in Tuktoyaktuk, the American Dingo stood in bright sunshine. Instead of silver, the sea was blue.
After standing there a few minutes on this beautiful morning, admiring the sea and sky and village of Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.
Congratulations, Loopster, on making it back to Tuk and the Arctic Ocean!
Thank you, SPHP! It’s been fun. Are we really going back S today?
We’re at the end of the road N, Loop, and it’s time.
Leaving the spit, Lupe went back to the massive concrete slabs of the sea wall for a last look at the open sea. Heading S didn’t seem right.
A morning like this is made for great deeds, SPHP! We ought to be setting out for Baffin Island to see Mount Thor!
SPHP smiled.
We think alike, Sweet Puppy! If only, but your next great deeds are S. Fear not! We’ll have a fantastic time. Promise!
Passing the campground, SPHP bid farewell to some of the other tourists met over the past couple of days, who were just beginning to stir before heading S themselves. Lupe then proceeded S on Beaufort Road to the RAV4 still waiting at the baseball diamond.
8-16-23, 10:04 AM, 51ºF – Instead of driving S, SPHP turned the RAV4 N.
One more look from the Arctic Ocean sign? What do you say, Loopster?
The Carolina Dog’s answer was a foregone conclusion.
Next to the Arctic Ocean sign, Lupe and the RAV4 were both pointed S. SPHP took the shot.
Great pose, Looper! Thank you. It’s time. Onward! Puppy, ho!
8-16-23, 10:15 AM – RAV4 purring smoothly, Lupe left Tuktoyaktuk. Not done here quite yet, though. 5 miles out of town, a last stop was ahead.
8-16-23, 10:27 AM – Across Tareoknitok Lagoon, illuminated by sunshine, both Ibyuk Pingo (161 ft.), second tallest in the world, and Split Pingo were seen more clearly than before.
Baffin Island! Silly us, SPHP. We haven’t even made it across Tareoknitok Lagoon!
I know. We’re just a couple of dreamers, Loop.
Dreams are fine, SPHP. It all starts with a dream, but dreams rarely amount to much without action.
True enough, Looper. Speaking of which, our time for action has arrived. Say good-bye to the Land of the Pingos.
A final lingering look, and Lupe was back on her pink blanket in the RAV4, rolling S to whatever next great adventure was in store.
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Lupe’s Arctic Ocean beach GPS Track
Lupe’s Tuktoyaktuk fishing spit GPS Track
Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk Highway No. 10
Lupe’s Stay at the Arctic Ocean, Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-20-18 & 8-21-18)
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