Northwest Territories – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Tuktoyaktuk – Land of the Pingos & The Arctic Ocean, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-14-23 to 8-16-23)

Part 2 of Day 24, Day 25 & Part 1 of Day 26 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-14-23, 3:00 PM – After leaving Inuvik, the Mackenzie River delta was in sight off to the W, but before long the river and Hwy 10 angled away from each other. As the RAV4 cruised along at a comfortable 35 to 40 mph, the mutual potato chip feast went on until Lupe didn’t want any more. SPHP then switched to orange juice and Allsorts licorice.

Outside, the weather was a balmy 50°F, with low clouds hanging across the sky from horizon to horizon. Passing through a region of numerous lakes, Hwy 10 stayed up on the high ground, to the extent that there was any, as much as possible. A thin boreal forest soon vanished completely. Low bushes and tundra covered the land.

Back in 2018, Lupe had seen many people picking berries in this region, but no one was out there today. Instead, the Carolina Dog saw groups of snowmobiles sitting alone on the tundra, their controls wrapped in tarps or plastic, apparently pre-positioned for winter’s eventual arrival.

The entire region from **Inuvik** to **Tuktoyaktuk** is a land of lakes and ponds.

We’re doing great, Loopster! Heard a lot of people complaining about how bad this highway was. So terribly washboardy and rough that some even turned around. Isn’t bad at all in the RAV4, though. Bumpy sections and potholes every now and then, but that’s true of most any gravel road.

How far is it to Tuktoyaktuk from Inuvik, SPHP?

Oh, I’ve seen figures anywhere from 140 to nearly 150 km, Loop. Think I saw a sign as we left Inuvik that said 148. A couple of hours at this rate, and we’ll be there.

As the journey N continued, the lakes visible in all directions tended to get larger and more numerous. Despite a fair amount of truck traffic, and lack of pullouts, SPHP parked briefly by the side of the road every now and then, so Lupe could get out to sniff the air and look around.

One of countless unnamed lakes seen from Hwy 10.

A really big lake eventually appeared off to the E.

Is that the ocean, SPHP?

Technically, probably not, Looper. The maps show a string of big lakes called the Eskimo or Husky Lakes that are all interconnected. It appears they drain NE into Liverpool Bay, which is an arm of the Beaufort Sea. Even if they aren’t part of the ocean, they can’t be much above sea level.

After a while, even the Eskimo Lakes were left behind. SPHP continued to stop briefly near lakes that had particularly interesting shapes.

When small hills began appearing in the distance, Lupe’s journey N was almost over. The American Dingo had reached the land of the pingos.

8-14-23, 5:10 PM – The only pullout along Hwy 10 appeared roughly 10 km from Tuktoyaktuk. Lupe could already see Ibyuk Pingo, the second highest pingo on earth from here. Displays included a map, and a list of services available in Tuktoyaktuk.

The map was interesting. However, overcome by weariness after many long days of Lupe adventures, what SPHP needed most of all was not a map, but a nap.

8-14-23, 7:24 PM – A couple hours of blissful unconsciousness had SPHP feeling much more alert. A mile or 2 past the only Hwy 10 pullout, Lupe was now at the “Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk – Land of the Pingos” sign for the first time in 5 years. Both Ibyuk Pingo and Split Pingo were in sight across Tareoknitok Lagoon.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L of Center) and **Split Pingo** (far R). Photo looks W.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (Center). Photo looks W.

It’s great being back in the Land of the Pingos, SPHP!

Absolutely, Loop! It’s a world that’s seldom seen. Shall we head into Tuk?

As far N as we can go, SPHP!

Pingo Canadian Landmark was just a bit farther. After another quick look at the pingos from the boat launch, Lupe’s next stop on the way into Tuktoyaktuk was more discouraging. Near the edge of the ocean, within view of the pingos, flocks of seagulls and ravens were busy picking through the unsightly discarded refuse of the human race.

A less than scintillating **introduction to Tuktoyaktuk**.

A worldwide problem with no easy solutions.

**Ravens** and **seagulls** seeking something of value amid the rubble.

Are you humans ever going to do anything about this, SPHP? It’s a really bad introduction to Tuktoyaktuk. Will it be this way forever?

I don’t know, Loopster. The best that can be said about it is that at least we haven’t pitched it all in the ocean yet. Maybe it can still be cleaned up some fine day, but who knows when?

The dump right by the ocean on the way into Tuktoyaktuk was nothing new. It had been here in 2018, too. During the drive through town, the rest of Tuk didn’t initially look much different, either. However, there were some changes. A new visitor center was on the R before entering the village, and the old one at the N end of Beaufort Road overlooking the Arctic Ocean had been removed to make room for more campsites.

The **Arctic Ocean** from the **campground and day use area** at the **N end of Beaufort Road** in **Tuktoyaktuk**. Photo looks WNW.

**Nunaryuam Qaangani Tariuq** had been added since Lupe was here back in 2018. Photo looks WNW.

8-14-23, 8:01 PM, Tuktoyaktuk campground, N end of Beaufort Road – This was it, the end of the line! Parked near the group shelter, the RAV4 was as far N as the road went anywhere in Canada. Back in 2018, the year after Hwy 10 opened, camping or overnight parking here was free. Now it was a cool $63.00 CAN.

Let’s have a look around Loopster!

There were still benches, picnic tables, and campfire barrels overlooking the Arctic Ocean, but SPHP was surprised to see that the large amount of driftwood that had been here in 2018, carried in on the currents, winds, and waves from the Mackenzie River delta, had vanished. Other than a few big, weather-beaten logs, scarcely a stick left!

Our Lady of Lourdes was still parked nearby, forlornly looking out over the Beaufort Sea which she had once plied, long, long ago.

Of course, the Arctic Ocean was the main attraction, in truth, the entire reason Lupe had come so far. Enjoying the view ocean view from the dark rocks and concrete slabs of the seawall was a must!

So awesome just being here, Looper!

Let’s do the walk along the beach, SPHP.

8-14-23, 9:20 PM, Tuktoyaktuk – The best walk along the ocean started farther S. Could have easily walked to the N end from the campground, but instead SPHP drove down to Grandma’s Kitchen, parking the RAV4 near the S end of Lupe’s 2018 traditional stroll along the Arctic Ocean.

No Dingo bans, access restrictions, or required guided tour fees here in Tuktoyaktuk, Canada like there were in Deadhorse, Alaska! At least, not yet. Lupe took full advantage. The entire walk along the beach was 0.8 mile one way. What a fabulous, rare treat!

**Lupe** enjoying her **traditional stroll** along the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks N.

No rush. Lupe sniffed here and there at will as little waves rippled ashore. Meanwhile, SPHP ambled along gathering a plastic grocery sack’s worth of trash, easily filling it long before the N end of the stroll was reached where the dark rocks of the seawall began. Once there, it was time to turn around and enjoy the incredible experience all over again on the way back to Grandma’s kitchen.

On the **dark rocks of the seawall** near the N end of the stroll. Photo looks NNW.

Heading back to Grandma’s Kitchen. Photo looks SSE.

8-14-23, 10:00 PM, Tuktoyaktuk – Back at the campground, SPHP parked the RAV4 by some of the picnic tables.

Back at the **N end of Beaufort Road**. Photo looks NNW.

C’mon, Loopster! Let’s hang around here for a while. Tide’s out! We can take the short walk out onto the spit where the locals like to fish.

**Map of Tuktoyaktuk** posted near the spit.

Near the end of the spit, a girl named Lydia was very happy. She had just caught the first fish that she’d ever caught in her life. She very kindly permitted an American Dingo to inspect her prize.

**Lupe** inspects **Lydia’s fresh catch**.

Sniffs strongly of the sea, SPHP.

I’d be surprised, if it didn’t, Looper. I’m sort of jealous. Bigger than any fish I’ve ever caught.

8-15-23, 12:02 AM – Back in 2018, Lupe had spent a cold evening under her little brown blanket in the RAV4 while SPHP burned driftwood in one of the campground fire barrels. What an incredible experience that had been, huddling by the fire in the twilight while watching the wood burn and staring out at the surf rolling in from the Arctic Ocean.

Sadly, no driftwood around to burn now. Even so, the Carolina Dog hung around the campground until well past midnight. Mid-August, but still light out. Awesome!

**Midnight** at the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks NNW.

8-15-23, 7:19 AM, 49ºF – A whole day to spend in Tuktoyaktuk! It began with a drive out to the Pingo Canadian Landmark. With the help of the telephoto lens, SPHP got a couple close ups of Ibyuk Pingo (161 ft.) and Split Pingo from across the lagoon.

I was hoping for a sunnier day, Looper. The pingos look a bit drab with all these clouds around.

Nothing to be done about that, SPHP. Let’s head back into Tuk. Time for my now traditional Tuktoyaktuk tour!

Returning to Hwy 10, a huge bird was sitting on top of a very tall post. To SPHP’s surprise, it didn’t fly off at the American Dingo’s approach.

Loopster! Come back! That bird means business!

What kind of bird is it, SPHP?

A hawk, or maybe an eagle? I don’t know, Loop. Might even be an osprey. Some kind of a raptor, that’s for sure. One that eats fish, and …

And Dingoes, SPHP?

Like I said, come back! We don’t want to find out.

Lupe’s tour of Tuktoyaktuk began with a look at some of the buildings seen along Hwy 10 on the way into town.

Some of the **first buildings** on the way into **Tuktoyaktuk**.

Lupe had seen these same **rusty pale blue tanks** in 2018, too. Apparently the Tuk paint shortage still hadn’t been alleviated yet in 2023.

Approaching **Tuk** from the SE. **Paniksak Pingo (36 ft.)** (Center). Photo looks NW.

After driving through the center of town back to the campground at the N end of Beaufort Road, SPHP parked the RAV4. Lupe’s walking tour of Tuktoyaktuk began at the Trans Canada Trail monument marking the trail’s N terminus.

Before heading S, a quick look at the facilities at the end of the road was in order. Wandering past the restrooms and group shelter, Lupe visited the kmpost marker and an old sled, both near the start of the fishing spit where Lydia caught her big fish last night.

**End of the road** in **Tuk**. **Restrooms** (Center in dark blue) next to the **group shelter**.

An **old sled** at the start of the **spit**.

The **fishing spit** from the **kmpost**. At high tide, most of the spit is submerged.

Satisfied without going clear out to the end of the spit, since the tide was coming in, the Carolina Dog now headed S along Beaufort Road, passing the campground sites overlooking the Arctic Ocean and Our Lady of Lourdes again.

A L turn onto Centennial Road led to a couple of sod houses.

Can you image facing a long Arctic winter in that, Looper? Grim!

Not as grim as not having a sod house, SPHP. I’ll take wintering in our house in the Black Hills over it any day, though.

Continuing to wander the side streets of Tuktoyaktuk, near the end of Liusa Road, Lupe took a shortcut over a hill that may have been a small pingo. Up here, she made a new friend. A local dog with a sore L rear paw decided to join the tour.

Lupe with her new friend. Photo looks ESE.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L) and **Split Pingo** (Center). **Arctic Ocean** (R). Photo looks SSW.

As Lupe and her new friend continued to explore the side streets of Tuk, everywhere they went, they triggered a chorus of protest from dogs that wanted to join the tour, but were tied up or otherwise confined.

It was getting to be a bit ridiculous. The American Dingo and her friend soon had all of Tuktoyaktuk howling in dismay. SPHP wasn’t entirely disappointed when this new friend finally decided it might be time to go back home, wherever that was, and Lupe reached the beach again near Grandma’s Kitchen.

**Homes** on **Ocean View Road** close to **Grandma’s Kitchen**.

Thankfully, back to the serenity of the **beach**. Photo looks WSW.

As usual, the stroll along the tranquil, silvery sea was soothing, a treat for body and soul. This time, once Lupe got to the N end of the beach, she turned E to Beaufort Road before heading N past the cemetery.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L), **Split Pingo** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

By the **Beaufort Sea**. Photo looks NW.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (Center), **Split Pingo** (R). Photo looks S.

Passing the **cemetery**. Photo looks NW.

8-15-23, 2:40 PM, 55ºF – The campground and day use area were almost empty when Lupe got back to the RAV4, which was parked at the highest spot facing the ocean. Watching the waves roll in while sharing sardines and Ritz crackers, the mood eventually turned more festive when a tour bus arrived.

Moving to a picnic table, SPHP munched on trail mix and chatted with other tourists. Lupe spent her time searching in vain for a marmot that knew the ins and outs of the passages between the rocks of the seawall.

Up on one of the seawall’s concrete slabs.

8-15-23, 5:00 PM – SPHP woke from a pleasant hour long nap.

Campground’s filling up, SPHP.

Yeah, I see that, Loop. Guess we better move or pay for a spot before they kick us out.

Driving S out of Tuktoyaktuk to the new visitor center, SPHP came out with 2 certificates for Lupe.

**Lupe’s Certificate for traveling Highway 10, the Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk highway.**

**Lupe’s Certificate for dipping her paw in the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk.**

8-15-23, 5:45 PM – SPHP parked the RAV4 at the empty ballfield.

Another stroll along the beach, Loop? Plenty of time for it.

How often are we in Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP? We better enjoy it to the utmost while we can.

Cutting over to the seawall rocks near the N end of the beach, the trek S to Grandma’s Kitchen began anew.

I don’t know how you do it, Loopster. Way too rocky for me to go barepaw here, but do you mind if I find a spot along these rocks where I can take my boots and socks off and stand in the Arctic Ocean for a few minutes?

Have at it, SPHP. You need to toughen those paws up.

Lupe along the seawall rocks. Taken while SPHP was standing a foot deep in the Arctic Ocean! Photo looks NNE.

I’ve been picking up a new rock for your rock collection every time we take this stroll, Looper. Let me know if you see one you like as we go along.

Good thinking, SPHP! Mind showing what you’ve got for me so far?

The pebbles SPHP selected during the 2 prior strolls along the beach.

Two local girls made a couple of passes up and down the beach on an ATV. Other than that, the beach was deserted. The air was calm. Even the ocean barely had a ripple. Soft rays of light descended on the silver sea from weaknesses in the clouds. All too soon on this magical evening, Grandma’s Kitchen was in sight, and it was time to turn back again.

**Grandma’s Kitchen** is the **blue-gray building** at Center with the **white addition**. Photo looks E.

Halfway back to the N end of the beach, it was decision time.

OK, Loop. I’ve got 5 candidates for your rock collection. We’ve only done our beach stroll 3 times, so you can pick the 3 rocks you want to keep, and we’ll leave the others.

4 of the choices. New ones on the L, old ones on the R.

Do I have to keep the first 2 that you already showed me, SPHP?

Nope. Select the 3 you like best, Loopster.

They’re all unique and different from each other, SPHP.

That’s on purpose, Looper, so it’s a real choice. Made up your mind yet?

Yes.

And?

Let’s keep them all, SPHP. It’s a nice set, an Arctic Ocean sampler!

Well, why not? The price was right, and they were all just pebbles. Not like they were going to take up a lot of space, or weigh much.

The rest of the evening was spent up at the campground. SPHP chatted with the other tourists. Lupe had 2 dogs to play with, Beans and Mason, but they were both gigantic. Instead, the Carolina Dog preferred her pink blanket in the RAV4, growling whenever Beans or Mason got too close during their 3 hour frolic and wrestling match.

8-16-23, 8:15 AM, 46ºF – Foggy and a bit breezy, as Lupe set out from the baseball diamond to head over to the beach. This would be her last stroll along the Arctic Ocean to Grandma’s Kitchen. The tide was out, and on the way back, change was in the air. The fog dissipated, and it even seemed like the clouds were starting to break up.

Blue sky, SPHP!

Wow, you’re right, Loop! Is it possible we’ll get to see the sun before we leave Tuk?

Heading back N during the **final stroll** along the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks NNE.

Instead of returning to the RAV4 at the ball park when her final stroll along the Arctic Ocean was done, Lupe trotted N on Beaufort Road. Sure enough, the sun was shining by the time she passed the cemetery.

Upon reaching the campground, Lupe went all the way to the end of the fishing spit. The clouds were gone! For the first time since arriving in Tuktoyaktuk, the American Dingo stood in bright sunshine. Instead of silver, the sea was blue.

After standing there a few minutes on this beautiful morning, admiring the sea and sky and village of Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations, Loopster, on making it back to Tuk and the Arctic Ocean!

Thank you, SPHP! It’s been fun. Are we really going back S today?

We’re at the end of the road N, Loop, and it’s time.

Leaving the spit, Lupe went back to the massive concrete slabs of the sea wall for a last look at the open sea. Heading S didn’t seem right.

Back on the concrete slabs of the seawall. Photo looks SW.

The **Arctic Ocean** in blue. Photo looks NE

A morning like this is made for great deeds, SPHP! We ought to be setting out for Baffin Island to see Mount Thor!

SPHP smiled.

We think alike, Sweet Puppy! If only, but your next great deeds are S. Fear not! We’ll have a fantastic time. Promise!

Passing the campground, SPHP bid farewell to some of the other tourists met over the past couple of days, who were just beginning to stir before heading S themselves. Lupe then proceeded S on Beaufort Road to the RAV4 still waiting at the baseball diamond.

8-16-23, 10:04 AM, 51ºF – Instead of driving S, SPHP turned the RAV4 N.

One more look from the Arctic Ocean sign? What do you say, Loopster?

The Carolina Dog’s answer was a foregone conclusion.

To the **Arctic Ocean** at **Tuktoyaktuk**! What a grand adventure it had been!

Next to the Arctic Ocean sign, Lupe and the RAV4 were both pointed S. SPHP took the shot.

Great pose, Looper! Thank you. It’s time. Onward! Puppy, ho!

8-16-23, 10:15 AM – RAV4 purring smoothly, Lupe left Tuktoyaktuk. Not done here quite yet, though. 5 miles out of town, a last stop was ahead.

8-16-23, 10:27 AM – Across Tareoknitok Lagoon, illuminated by sunshine, both Ibyuk Pingo (161 ft.), second tallest in the world, and Split Pingo were seen more clearly than before.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L), **Split Pingo** (R). Photo looks W.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (Center) beyond **Tareoknitok Lagoon**.

Baffin Island! Silly us, SPHP. We haven’t even made it across Tareoknitok Lagoon!

I know. We’re just a couple of dreamers, Loop.

Dreams are fine, SPHP. It all starts with a dream, but dreams rarely amount to much without action.

True enough, Looper. Speaking of which, our time for action has arrived. Say good-bye to the Land of the Pingos.

A final lingering look, and Lupe was back on her pink blanket in the RAV4, rolling S to whatever next great adventure was in store.

In the **Land of the Pingos**, **Tuktoyaktuk**, Northwest Territories, Canada 8-16-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Arctic Ocean beach GPS Track

Lupe’s Tuktoyaktuk fishing spit GPS Track

Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk Highway No. 10

Lupe’s Stay at the Arctic Ocean, Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-20-18 & 8-21-18)

To the Arctic Ocean on the New All-Season Road from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-19-18)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Along the Dempster Highway – Wright Pass, Yukon & Northwest Territories Border to Inuvik, Canada (8-12-23 to 8-14-23)

Days 21, 22, and Part 1 of Day 23 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-12-23, 5:46 AM, 45ºF, Dempster Highway at Wright Pass on the Yukon & Northwest Territories border – Sensing that SPHP had stirred, Lupe woke up. Her eyes grew big in disbelief. Springing to her paws, the Carolina Dog burst into a frantic, foaming-at-the-mouth frenzy.

SPHP, look! A fox!

Outside the RAV4, a big, handsome fox with a huge, bushy tail that had been crossing the Dempster Highway took off like all the Dingoes of Hell were after him, racing away up the side road to the microwave tower.

Yeah, I know it’s a fox, Loopster. I was about to take a photo of it! So much for that, aye?

Lupe cleverly changed the subject.

Wow! There’s an incredible sunrise, SPHP. Let’s get a picture of that.

Leaving the RAV4, the air was calm, the sky overhead wonderfully clear with no hint of the smoke of the Arctic apocalypse that had endured for weeks across thousands of miles, and which had suddenly retreated SW into the Yukon yesterday evening.

Toward the rising sun, a sea of white billowed just below Wright Pass.

It is an amazing sunrise, Loop. The lowlands are all socked in with fog. Let’s get a couple.

Sunrise from **Wright Pass** on the Yukon & Northwest Territories border. Photo looks E.

The **Dempster Highway** (L), Lupe’s road to adventure! Photo looks E.

So, what’s the plan, SPHP? We’re off to an exciting start!

For today? We’ll see, Looper. After all the mountains we’ve climbed the past few days, my right paw is mighty sore. Still, this looks like a fabulous day coming up. Hate to waste it. If my paw gets to feeling better, maybe we can make an attempt on Peak 1402M after a bit?

That would be awesome! Put on some really thick, soft socks, SPHP.

Good suggestion, might help, Loop. Yet we still need to wait a while to let the iPhone battery charge up. It’s at only 3% after yesterday’s jaunt, kind of like my paw.

8-12-24, 8:24 AM, Wright Pass – After another snooze, SPHP woke still feeling groggy. On her pink blanket, the American Dingo continued her slumbers. SPHP’s right paw was possibly improved. The iPhone battery had made better progress. If Peak 1402M was going to happen, might as well get the pack ready now.

SPHP was nearly finished, when a white pickup truck drove up. Fred, a burly man from Inuvik, who was traveling with 2 young women, and an older one with a nice smile, none of whom ever said much of anything, greeted SPHP with what turned out to be the question of the day.

Have you seen any caribou?

They were hunters, doing what all the hunters did. Drive up and down the Dempster Highway with binoculars looking for a victim. Fred said a tourist had recently reported a herd of caribou so big down by the Rock River in the Yukon that they’d taken an hour to cross the road. Fred had already seen 4 grizzly bears this morning, 2 on each side of Wright Pass, but no caribou.

On the caribou’s side, SPHP gave a vague response of little practical value. Once extracted from the conversation, SPHP hopped into the RAV4 and turned the key.

Driving NE from Wright Pass down into the sea of fog, it was so thick that being on the highway at all seemed downright dangerous. Visibility extended barely beyond the hood of the RAV4. 2.5 miles from the pass, SPHP pulled over at the same pullout where Lupe had left only 3 days ago on her adventure to Mount Sittichinli.

By early afternoon, the fog lifted. Blue skies and puffy white clouds! Too late to even consider Peak 1402M, though. Maybe tomorrow? Despite its promising, exciting start, the day became a leisurely one of naps, short walks, and for SPHP, answering that same question over and over again.

Have you seen any caribou?

8-13-23, 1:03 AM, Dempster Highway pullout 2.5 miles NE of Wright Pass – Putting down the pen, SPHP turned off the headlamp. Made quite a bit of progress on the trip journal today. That right paw was feeling much happier, too. iPhone battery at 100% long ago. Even so, it was hard to feel optimistic about Peak 1402M. Hanging around for it may have been a mistake. Outside in the black night, a cold mist was falling in another dense fog.

8-13-23, 5:13 AM, Dempster Highway pullout 2.5 miles NE of Wright Pass – For the first time on this Dingo Vacation it got cold last night. Alert, Lupe stood in the dim morning light, staring out across the tundra. Beneath low ceiling clouds, it was still almost foggy, the landscape hazy as if seen through the veil of a dream.

What’ya looking at, Loopster?

That dark mound out on the tundra, SPHP. Do you see it? What is that?

Hmm. I dunno, Loop. A big rock? Odd. Don’t remember seeing it yesterday.

The dark mound wasn’t all that far away. Lupe continued her intent stare. SPHP watched for several minutes, too. Nothing.

Where are those caribou hunters and their binoculars when you need them, anyway? C’mon, Loop, I’m going back into the RAV4. Might as well have a bite to eat, then finish up the trip journal. I’ll get you breakfast, too.

8-13-23, 5:38 AM, Dempster Highway pullout 2.5 miles NE of Wright Pass – A low, almost imperceptible growl. SPHP glanced over. Lupe’s hackles were up, and that growl was getting higher in pitch, the Carolina Dog’s excitement rapidly rising.

The mound! It’s moving, SPHP!

Sure enough, it was! Not only moving, but galloping, the mound’s long shaggy fur swaying as it raced away in the direction of Wright Pass. By the time SPHP had the camera trained on it, even the telephoto lens couldn’t get a proper focus before the mound vanished over a ridge.

The lone **musk ox**, early on a gloomy Northwest Territories morning.

Best look at the dark mound before it vanished from view.

Awesome! Not every day you see a musk ox, Loop. Please calm down now. It’s gone.

8-13-23, 1:36 PM, 45ºF, Dempster Highway pullout 2.5 miles NE of Wright Pass – The morning turned very foggy again, and it misted for a while. SPHP now had the trip journal caught up, and was out on the pullout heating up a pan of chili on a propane stove. Conditions had improved. Visibility was much better now.

A car full of excited people pulled up.

Hurry! Get your stove, yourself, and everything else into your vehicle. A grizzly bear is heading this way, about to come over that little rise any minute now! We just saw it!

They had a video of the approaching threat on their iPhone, eagerly showing it to SPHP before driving on. Moments later, a white pickup truck appeared, it’s occupant giving SPHP the same dire warning before driving up onto the little rise, scaring the bear away, if it was still coming at all. A gray pickup soon followed the white one onto the rise.

The chili all heated up now, SPHP got into the RAV4 with it.

A grizzly bear is supposedly on its way, Loopster. Keep an eye out for it.

Haven’t seen any bears, but I’ve been watching a couple of caribou, SPHP.

Caribou! They better get away from the Dempster Highway, ASAP.

The caribou weren’t terribly far from the same minor rise where the bear was expected. As Lupe watched, a puff of smoke rose from the ground where they were standing. The caribou took off! Stuck in the RAV4, the Carolina Dog was beside herself with excitement.

Hunters! They missed! Run, caribou, run!

The caribou fled beyond vision from the RAV4, but not from the rise where the pickups were. Their ultimate fate was unknown.

The chili and a couple of chocolate puddings consumed, it was time to get this show on the road again. With the mountains all in the clouds, Peak 1402M was off the table, but at least the beautiful lowlands were in view. SPHP watched for places to park the RAV4 in the general vicinity of Peak 1402M on the way back S, if the weather was better then.

Coming down out of the Richardson Mountains, big regions of tundra on the E side of the range had burned during the recent Arctic apocalypse. Some hillsides still smoldered, smoke rising from the charred slopes.

As the mountains receded in the rearview mirror, the weather quickly improved. Patches of blue sky appeared.

8-13-23, 3:23 PM, NWT km 44 – Beneath fair skies, Lupe stood along the edge of the Dempster Highway, Midway Lake in view beyond her. Site of a music festival in early August each year, a big pavilion in the little community of Midway was visible on the far shore.

Want to check out Midway, Loop? We never did stop in when we were here back in 2018. Shouldn’t take long.

Might as well, SPHP. Who knows what we’ll find?

Not much, as it turned out. The big pavilion where the music festival was held was pretty cool, but the rest of Midway amounted to little more than a collection of colorful shacks, most in various stages of disrepair.

E of Midway, the Dempster Highway ran along an elevated ridge just high enough to provide sweeping views of a vast, gently rolling region slanting gradually down toward the distant Peel River valley. Far to the NW, views of totally inaccessible portions of the Richardson Mountains fired SPHP’s imagination.

Shortly before leaving this ridge, a pullout appeared on the R side of the highway.

Looking NE toward the **Peel River lowlands**.

**Richardson Mountains** on the far horizon from the **Tetlit Gwinjik pullout**.

8-13-23, 4:00 PM, 58ºF, Tetlit Gwinjik View Point, NWT km 71 – A trail from the pullout led up a gentle slope among bushes and even a few scattered trees.

Start of the **trail** to the **Tetlit Gwinjik Territorial View Point**.

The sign says there’s a view point, Looper. Shall we check it out?

Of course! I’ve been cooped up in the RAV4 for a day and a half now, SPHP.

500 feet, and that was about it, just enough for a bit of a stretch and to get the circulation going again. The trail ended at a gray observation deck surrounded by bushes, fireweed past its prime, and stunted trees.

On the **Tetlit Gwinjik observation deck**.

The deck featured a distant view of the Peel River and a huge expanse of mostly featureless, unspoiled territory, along with a number of displays.

**Peel River** from the **Tetlit Gwinjik observation deck** with help from the telephoto lens.

**Peel River Plateau**, **Mackenzie River Delta**, and **Dempster Highway** display.

Just beyond the Tetlit Gwinjik pullout, the Dempster Highway descended into the Peel River valley, which featured a thick, boreal forest. Leveling out at the bottom of the hill, the highway made a sharp turn ENE before passing between a couple of lakes. SPHP pulled the RAV4 over to the side of the road a little beyond them.

I liked this spot when we were first here back in 2018, Loop. C’mon, let’s get a photo!

Seems like you got a couple of them when we stopped here before, SPHP.

Did we? Maybe so. In that case, it’s now a tradition, Loopster!

Not a great decision. No shoulders, and traffic was significantly heavier along the Dempster Highway in 2023 than back in 2018. Semi-trucks and other vehicles kept coming down the hill and roaring past, sending up clouds of dust. Got that photo, though, before fleeing back to the RAV4.

The **scenic lake** on the N side of the highway. Photo looks N.

8-13-23, 4:48 PM, NWT km 74 – The Peel River was only a mile beyond the lakes. When Lupe arrived, the free MV Abraham Francis ferry was on the far side of the river, giving the American Dingo an opportunity to escape the RAV4 for a few minutes to sniff around.

Arriving at the **Peel River**. Photo looks NNE.

The **MV Abraham Francis ferry** on the opposite shore. Photo looks NE.

While the Peel River was big, due to the Arctic apocalypse drought, it was running much lower than back in 2018. The river wasn’t anything out of the ordinary, but the free ride on the ferry was fun.

Crossing the **Peel River** aboard the **MV Abraham Francis ferry**. Upstream view. Photo looks SE.

8-13-23, 5:20 PM, NWT km 86 – After crossing the Peel River, the Dempster Highway turned N, paralleling the river, but about a mile E back in the boreal forest, so the Peel never came into view again. When the L turn into Fort McPherson appeared after only 12 km, SPHP took it.

May as well see it all, Loopster!

We toured Fort McPherson back in 2018, SPHP.

I know, but I don’t remember much about it, Looper, except that there’s more to Fort McPherson than we saw at Midway today.

True enough, but not an awful lot more. Fort McPherson did feature a few critical services, including cell service, and a Co-op gas station near Inns North, plus a few other businesses. Other highlights included the community center, and the church graveyard.

**Inns North** (Center) and the **Co-op gas station** at **Fort McPherson**. Photo looks NE.

**Fort McPherson community center** (R). **Main drag through town** (L). Photo looks N.

By the **church graveyard**. Photo looks NW.

Don’t think we’re ready to be planted quite yet, are we, Loop?

Most certainly not, SPHP!

Onward, then! Puppy, ho!

Beyond Fort McPherson, the Dempster Highway wound E, meandering through a region of forested lowlands. A bit of hilliness, and frequent glimpses of small, hidden lakes added interest to this drive, which ended at the Mackenzie River near its confluence with the Arctic Red River.

Approaching the **Mackenzie River** (L & Center), **Arctic Red River** (R). Photo looks NE.

8-13-23, 6:36 PM, NWT km 142 – Although also running much lower than in 2018, the Mackenzie River was more impressive than the Peel River to SPHP’s way of thinking, partly because it was bigger, and partly due to the bluffs along the banks. In addition to continuing N on the Dempster Highway, the MV Louis Cardinal ferry offered an optional side trip to the village of Tsiigehtchic, visible up on the bluffs to the S.

We’ve never been to Tsiigehtchic, SPHP. Want to check it out?

Oh, I don’t know, Loop. Not sure I want to wait for the ferry more than once here. Think I’d rather stick with the Dempster.

You’re such a creature of habit, SPHP! What happened to “may as well see it all, Loopster”? Promise you’ll take me to Tsiigehtchic someday?

Eh, maybe. Maybe not. I suppose we should go sometime, just to see it once. It’s not like I never take you anywhere, Sweet Puppy.

**Hours of Operation** for the **MV Louis Cardinal ferry**.

By the **Mackenzie River**, upstream view. Photo looks NE.

The **MV Louis Cardinal ferry** arrives. Photo looks N.

Crossing the **Mackenzie River** aboard the **MV Louis Cardinal ferry**.

Beyond the Mackenzie River, the Dempster Highway ran straight and flat with few curves for many miles. Boreal forest no longer lined the road, having been cut back a long way from it, and there were fewer lakes. Every vehicle raised great plumes of dust that settled on bushes trying to survive in the broad, open strip vacated by the forest.

The Rengling River at NWT km 178 provided temporary relief from the monotony, as the Dempster Highway dove sharply into the surprisingly deep and scenic canyon the river had carved. However, straight as a stick, the highway climbed just as sharply out of the canyon and leveled out again.

More dusty miles were ahead. No distant views at all along in here, and the cheerful mood of at least some blue sky and sunshine that formerly prevailed after coming down out of the foggy Richardson Mountains was now turning more somber with a gloomy, darkly overcast sky ahead. As the RAV4 raced along raising its own plume of dust, a light mist began to fall, but soon ended.

Nothing to see except a bunny, and by then the Carolina Dog was fast asleep on her pink blanket. At last, a forested ridge appeared off in the distance toward the L. The Dempster Highway began to wind and climb toward it, passing the Vadzaih Van Tsik campground (NWT km 221) on the R at Caribou Creek.

**Sign** at the **Tithegeh Chii Vitaii view point pullout**, Dempster Highway, NWT km 232.

8-13-23, 8:20 PM, 50ºF, NWT km 232 – Several vehicles were already parked at the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii view point pullout when Lupe arrived. However, they had all left by the time the American Dingo was done sharing a can of salmon and a package of Ritz crackers with SPHP.

Even though a bright blue double trash can sat at one end of the pullout, the place was a mess. Trash everywhere, and a display with only a few dirty, decaying photos, plus a map faded to the verge of illegibility.

Pathetic! This is the trailhead for the only decent trail we know of beyond the Richard Mountains, and look at it, Loopster. Not taking a photo while it’s looking like this.

20 minutes worth of effort produced a 95% improvement. SPHP took that photo of Lupe in front of the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii view point sign.

8-13-23, 9:14 PM, NWT km 232 – The big attraction here was a 2 mile long loop trail to the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Loop High Point (385 ft.) up on a ridge overlooking Campbell Lake, the largest lake SPHP was aware of anywhere along the Dempster Highway. An option also existed to take a much shorter spur to a Campbell Lake observation deck.

Still pretty light out. Want to hit the trail, Loop? Think we’ve got time enough for it before it gets dark.

It’s a loop trail, right, SPHP? They don’t call me Loopster for nothing!

Setting out on the **Tithegeh Chii Vitaii loop trail**.

Lupe had barely gotten started, when she came to the first junction. The spur trail to the Campbell Lake view deck split off toward the R here.

**Main loop trail** (L). **Spur** to the **Campbell Lake observation deck** (R).

Sticking with the main loop, Lupe stayed to the L. The trail began a slow descent through the boreal forest. SPHP was pleased to see that the trail was in much better shape than the trailhead had been.

Guess the idiots aren’t much into hiking and exploring, Loopster.

We can count our blessings on that, SPHP.

Short boardwalks went over moist regions. A long wall of light gray rock appeared on the R. Soon a second junction appeared. To the L, a long boardwalk went up a gentle slope. Off to the R, the trail headed toward another wall of gray rock.

At the **second junction**, which is the start of the loop.

Any preference, Looper? This is the start of the loop. Either way brings us right back to this point. The boardwalk is the long way to the highest point, if that makes any difference to you.

Hardly matters if we’re going to do the entire loop, SPHP. Back in 2018, we took the boardwalk, right? Let’s do that again.

Uh-huh! Now who’s the creature of habit? But I like that way, too. Onward! Puppy, ho!

The loop trail was still as awesome as it had been back in 2018! Most of the boardwalks and stairs that Lupe came to were still in great shape. Many looked almost new, and the stairs usually had handrails. At this late hour, Lupe enjoyed perfect solitude, although for a while the roar of traffic could still be heard back along the Dempster Highway.

The trail wandered SW through the boreal forest up and down small hills, ridges, and valleys, past cliffs and walls of rock, with occasional glimpses of more distant views from minor high points.

An early glimpse of **Campbell Lake** (R). Photo looks NW.

Going clockwise around the loop, quite a bit of boardwalk and occasional stairs were present along the first part of the route.

Loving the incredible **boreal forest** of the far N.

The loop trail eventually began curving slowly toward the NW. Gaining elevation, Lupe soon reached the upper S end of the ridge overlooking Campbell Lake. Beyond a gap, a ridge of similar height and appearance was now visible toward the SW, and the wide valley S of Campbell Lake was coming into view to the W.

Near the **S end of the loop trail**. Photo looks WSW.

Continuing NW, once the trail reached the line of bluffs overlooking Campbell Lake, it turned NE. Until now, the route had been completely obvious and easy to follow. Up here, though, the trail was braided. Despite the presence of a few markers, it wasn’t always clear whether the American Dingo was on the official trail, or not.

Most of the braiding was due to the fact that the big views were often a little off-trail toward the NW, right along the very edge. Not wanting to miss a thing, Lupe visited as many of these best viewpoints as she could. At first, she saw many ponds and the course of the Campbell River down in the broad valley. Farther on, more of Campbell Lake came into view, stretching far off to the NNE beneath a dreary sky.

**S end of Campbell Lake** (R). Photo looks W.

More of **Campbell Lake**. Photo looks NW.

Returning briefly to the official trail, Lupe hopped up onto a big rock near a long, very straight and vertical wall of the same material.

8-13-23, 10:10 PM, 50ºF – 10 minutes after abandoning the big rock, Lupe reached the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Loop High Point (385 ft.), which was a short distance off-trail again. From the edge of nearby bluffs, the biggest expanse yet of Campbell Lake was in sight, and from the actual high point, virtually the entire region S of the lake was in view, too.

At the **Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Loop High Point**. Photo looks SW.

**Campbell Lake** from the edge of the bluff. Photo looks NNW.

Just think, Loop! The giant Mackenzie River delta is on the far side of the bluffs across the lake. During the spring melt-off, when the N flowing river is choked with ice, it sometimes backs all the way up into Campbell Lake, flooding the entire region we’re seeing S of it, too.

Campbell Lake must look like an ocean then, SPHP!

In a sense, it is, Loopster. We aren’t that far from Mackenzie Bay where the river empties into the Beaufort Sea.

Although Lupe would never be here at that time of year, it was fun to think about the dramatic scenes and events of the far N wilderness that only wildlife and very few people ever experience.

By the rock wall near the end of the loop, just before reaching the 2nd trail junction again. Photo looks SSE.

8-14-23, 10:25 AM – SPHP put away the pen.

Trip journal’s all caught up again. How about a morning constitutional, Loop? You up for it? We can take the spur trail to the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii observation deck before heading on.

Silly question! Of course the Carolina Dog wanted to go! The spur trail was even shorter than SPHP remembered from 2018. Encouraged to move right along by mosquitoes that hadn’t been present at all during yesterday evening’s hike, but which were out in force now, 5 minutes and Lupe was already at the observation deck, enjoying a view of Campbell Lake again.

The **observation deck** at the **end of the short spur trail**. Photo looks SW.

**Campbell Lake** from the observation deck. Photo looks NW.

In addition to the views, several plaques were on display.

8-14-23, 11:52 AM, Dempster Highway, NWT km 266 –

SPHP, isn’t that the Jak Territorial Park tower?

Yup. We’re nearly to Inuvik, Loopster. Want to stop in and see if the tower has been repaired yet?

Sure, it’s been 5 years, SPHP. If they’re ever going to fix it, it ought to be done by now.

The 10 meter high tower had been closed to the public and Dingoes, too, when Lupe had last been here in 2018. No such disappointment today, though. Happily, the tower was open! Only 6 km from Inuvik, the tower featured views of the vast Mackenzie River delta, the campground next to the tower, and many informational displays.

The 10 meter tall **Jak Territorial Park observation tower**.

**Dempster Highway** (Center) only 6 km from Inuvik from the **top of the Jak tower**.

View of the **campground next to the tower**.

**MacKenzie Delta** from the **Jak Territorial Park observation tower**.

Lupe got excited when a helicopter flew by the tower with a big bucket of water dangling beneath it, no doubt intending to dump it on a fire somewhere. However, there was no sign of smoke in any direction.

I think the Arctic apocalypse is over, SPHP. At least around here.

8-14-23, 12:23 PM, NWT km 272 – Nooooooo! It was gone! The iconic sign at the entrance to Inuvik that had been here in 2018 was no more. In it’s place was a piece of modern art evoking the aurora borealis. Nice enough, but in SPHP’s estimation it didn’t hold a candle to the old sign. The American Dingo ventured no opinion one way or another.

The **new artsy aurora borealis display** at the **entrance to Inuvik**.

By the **iconic old sign** at the **entrance to Inuvik**, 8-19-18

Inuvik was the traditional N end of the 737 km long Dempster Highway, and the end of the journey N, except during the winter on the frozen Mackenzie River ice road. However, as in 2018, Inuvik was not destined to be the end of Lupe’s adventures N today, for on November 15, 2017, the 148 km long all-season Highway 10 extension to Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic Ocean opened up.

Time enough for that in a bit. Inuvik was the only town of significant size anywhere between Dawson City way back in the Yukon clear to the Arctic Ocean. Spending a little time in Inuvik, SPHP bought supplies at North Mart, and joined Lupe in a tour of some of the sights.

At the igloo-shaped Our Lady of Victory Roman Catholic Church.

**Aerial view of Inuvik** posted at a downtown display.

So what did you get us in North Mart, SPHP?

Well, let’s see, Loop. Orange juice …

Yuk!

A roasted chicken …

Oh, excellent! I’m famished, SPHP. Let’s eat it now!

Potato chips …

I like those, too!

Allsorts licorice candy …

All yours, SPHP!

That was about it. Lupe couldn’t wait to tear into the delicious roasted chicken, most of which was immediately consumed while still parked downtown in the RAV4. SPHP hit the Allsorts, chugged some orange juice, then drove to the North Wind gas bar.

The thirsty RAV4 at the **North Wind gas bar**.

$2.22 CAN per liter, Loopster!

It’s a long walk, SPHP. Fill’er up, and let’s roll!

8-14-23, 2:38 PM – Heading N out of town on Highway 10, SPHP tore open the big bag of potato chips.

Want some, Loop?

Don’t mind if I do, SPHP!

SPHP tossed a handful of chips onto Lupe’s pink blanket, replenishing her supply whenever it ran low. Beneath the cloudy sky, the RAV4 sped N through a green, gently rolling landscape, as Lupe and SPHP both munched happily away.

On your way to the Arctic Ocean, Looper! Not many Dingoes can ever say that! What an adventure, aye?

Happens every now and then when you’re the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, SPHP!

**Highway 10**, road to **Tuk** & the **Arctic Ocean**, Northwest Territories, Canada, 8-14-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Loop Trail GPS Track

The Dempster Highway

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

To the End of the Dempster Highway – Wright Pass to Inuvik, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-18-18 & 8-19-18)