Northwest Territories – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Lupe’s Stay at the Arctic Ocean, Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-20-18 & 8-21-18)

Days 17 & 18 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-20-18, 6:05 AM, 42°F, Pingo Canadian Landmark – Colder this morning, with a uniformly gray sky. Lupe had scarcely seen the sun yesterday, and today didn’t look to be any different. A light, but chilly W breeze blew across Tareoknitok Lagoon from over by Ibyuk and Split Pingos. Lupe watched as fog moved in and swallowed them whole.

Might as well snooze a bit longer.

A while later, Loop was awake again. No longer foggy, but nothing else had changed. Still overcast, still 42°F with a breeze. Today was the only whole day Lupe was going to get to spend in Tuktoyaktuk. If she wanted to make the most of it, the Carolina Dog had better get going. SPHP started up the G6. Within minutes, Lupe was heading back into Tuk.

Lupe had first arrived in Tuktoyaktuk late yesterday afternoon, so she’d already seen some of the main highlights, including, of course, the Arctic Ocean, the main reason everyone comes to Tuk. Today she was going to look around town a bit more carefully before enjoying another lovely romp along the ocean.

Pingo Canadian Landmark, where Lupe had spent the night, is 5 km from town near the “Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk, Land of the Pingos” sign by Tareoknitok Lagoon, the first part of the Arctic Ocean seen on the way into Tuk. The next part of Tuktoyaktuk that had come into view was also the worst. Highway 10 goes right by the unsightly Tuktoyaktuk dump.

Lupe reached Tuktoyaktuk yesterday afternoon. The first indication she had arrived was this welcoming sign by Tareoknitok Lagoon, 5 km prior to actually reaching the village.

The worst comes first! Shortly after reaching the Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk sign, the highway goes past this unsightly dump. Ugh!

After the landfill, though, things get somewhat better. The next thing Lupe saw was a curious one, a cove packed with driftwood. Surprising, since no trees grow anywhere near Tuktoyaktuk, but there is a logical explanation. The driftwood originates from the giant Mackenzie River to the W, and is brought in by ocean currents, wind, and waves.

Driftwood packed into a cove. All the driftwood near Tuk originates from the enormous Mackenzie River to the W.

For a few km beyond the driftwood-laden cove, Highway 10 winds past a number of widely scattered industrial sites. Whether these installations are somehow connected with an energy industry down on its luck, or serve some other purpose wasn’t entirely clear. It all reminded SPHP of what Lupe had seen a year ago in Deadhorse, Alaska, but on a much smaller, less prosperous scale.

One of the scattered industrial sites on the way into Tuktoyaktuk.

This building reminded SPHP of some of the hotels where oilfield workers live that Lupe had seen in Deadhorse, Alaska near Prudhoe Bay in 2017.

After passing the industrial outskirts, Highway 10 goes by a big pond as it enters the village of Tuktoyaktuk. Bob’s gas station (apparently the only gas station in town) was on the R shortly after going by the pond.

Highway 10 as it is about to enter Tuktoyaktuk.

Bob’s gas station, critical infrastructure as far as SPHP and the G6 were concerned, was on the R as Lupe entered town. At $1.68/L Canadian, prices were actually a little lower here than they had been in Inuvik.

Tuktoyaktuk has over 1,000 residents, a number which might grow with the increase in tourism made possible by Highway 10, the new all-season road from Inuvik that opened in November, 2017. Highway 10 was how Lupe had made it to Tuk!

Certainly, the much improved access provided by Highway 10 increases the potential for big changes as Tuk gets better known and businesses consider investing. It was still early in that game, though. In August 2018, as Lupe toured it today, Tuktoyaktuk still looked like an isolated Arctic village. Streets were all dirt. Homes were simple, and up on stilts. Small yards were all dirt, gravel, or natural tundra. Assorted pickup trucks, cars, snowmobiles and ATV’s were parked outside.

One of the attractions Lupe hadn’t visited in Tuktoyaktuk yesterday was the “Pingo with a Trail”, which was on the L shortly after passing Bob’s gas station. That was something the American Dingo could do! Looper was all for the idea.

The Pingo with a Trail might have been 40 feet high. Lupe scampered to the top in only a minute or two. A green bench provided a restful spot from which to take in the surprisingly good views of Tuktoyaktuk and general surroundings. The Arctic Ocean was in sight, too.

Looper was all for visiting this “**Pingo with a Trail**“! More than 1350 pingos are in the Tuktoyaktuk region. This modest one was right in town, and provided good views.

By the green bench at the summit of the “Pingo with a Trail”. Photo looks E.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L) and **Split Pingo** (Center) from the Pingo with a Trail. Photo looks SSW.

Looking W toward the **Arctic Ocean** over part of Tuktoyaktuk.

Looking toward the N end of Tuktoyaktuk. The **Arctic Ocean** is in the distance on the L. **Tuktoyaktuk Harbor** is on the R. Photo looks N.

House at the base of the Pingo with a Trail.

After visiting the Pingo with a Trail, Lupe and SPHP drove around Tuk a bit. It was Monday, and traffic consisted mainly of white pickup trucks. Lupe went past some sod houses, but they didn’t strike her fancy. In the evening yesterday, there had been a well-attended baseball game going on in a muddy field. Lots of kids and dogs had been out and about. Near the ocean, children had been bouncing on a trampoline.

Not too much was going on today, though, perhaps because it was colder out. No boats were out on the ocean, or in the harbor. Tuktoyaktuk has an airport, but Lupe hadn’t seen any planes land or take off. Some of the larger buildings in Tuk were in better condition than most of the homes, but the Carolina Dog couldn’t go into any of them.

Lupe and SPHP soon wound up at the park near the visitor information center at the far N end of Tuktoyaktuk. This park was where the tourist facilities were along the Arctic Ocean. Loop sniffed and explored while SPHP made lunch at one of the picnic tables.

Several pickup trucks with campers were around. SPHP chatted with three missionaries for a while. Lupe met Peter, a fellow adventurer and explorer. Peter was from the Czech Republic, and had spent the last 2.5 months bicycling here solo clear across Canada from New Brunswick! From Tuktoyaktuk, he planned on continuing S into the United States and Latin America. Mind-boggling!

The sun never appeared. The gray sky matched the gray sea. A steady stream of tourists came by, but the breeze was a bit chilly. Many didn’t stay long. Photo ops by the Arctic Ocean, a few minutes looking at the waves, and they were on their way.

It was fun for Lupe to have seen more of Tuktoyaktuk today, but the main attraction, and whole reason the Carolina Dog had come all this way, was to see the Arctic Ocean. After lunch was over and done with, and there was a lull in people happening by, it was time to repeat the leisurely stroll Loop had enjoyed yesterday evening along the ocean.

The possibly stray dog that Lupe had met yesterday, had come around during lunch seeking handouts again. By now, SPHP had thought long and hard, and had come up with the clever nickname “Tuk” for her. Tuk decided to join Lupe and SPHP.

By the cemetery on Beaufort Road a little S of the park at the N end of Tuktoyaktuk. Photo looks W.

Abandoning the G6 at the park for now, Lupe, Tuk and SPHP headed S on Beaufort Road. After passing the cemetery, Loop led the way back to the ocean behind an apartment building to the W. A short trek S brought her to the same nice stretch of shoreline along Kugmallit Bay that Lupe had visited yesterday.

Not another soul out here. The beach wasn’t terribly long, so there was no rush at all. Walking slowly, SPHP gazed out at the restless, remote sea at the top of the world, while enjoying the whole incredible experience of actually being at the Arctic Ocean. Loop and Tuk ran and explored, sometimes together, sometimes going their own separate ways.

Lupe on her second romp along **Kugmallit Bay** since arriving in Tuktoyaktuk. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe and “Tuk”, the possibly stray dog who often showed up at the park to panhandle. **Ibyuk Pingo** (L) and **Split Pingo** (Center) in the distance. Photo looks SSW.

“Tuk” with **Split Pingo** (R) in the background.

“Tuk” eventually realized this trek wasn’t likely to result in a meal. Lupe and SPHP were left alone. At the S end of the beach, Loopster followed the shoreline E along a sheltered cove as far as possible before reaching private property, going a little farther than she had yesterday.

At the end of the beach trek. Photo looks S.

On the way back, a lone seagull came by, and landed on the ocean. SPHP picked out another rock as a souvenir to add to Lupe’s collection. Waves kept rolling in. A little more than an hour after Loop’s second splendid journey along the Arctic Ocean began, it was over, too.

Turning back near the end of the trek. Photo looks WSW.

Later, at the park at the N end of Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP heated up clam chowder for dinner. Loop didn’t care for it, preferring Ritz crackers. She must not have been too hungry, as she scarcely touched her Alpo.

“Tuk” reappeared on another panhandling run, and this time was in luck. SPHP gave Tuk some of Lupe’s Taste of the Wild, a whole can of Alpo, and a couple different types of treats Loop had recently received from Pupjoy – Lamb Airy Bites and Coconut Shrimp. Tuk inhaled it all in seconds, looking like 5 times that much would have been preferred. SPHP wondered whether Tuk had a home? Hard to contemplate what might soon be in store for Tuk, if not. Summer was practically over.

The tide was coming in. Lupe and SPHP went over to the spit of big rocks at the N end of the park to watch the ocean gradually submerge formerly exposed seabed. More pingos were in sight on a distant shore.

At the N end of the park watching the tide come in. Photo looks NE.

Several pingos looking merely like small bumps are strung out along the distant shore. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Evening. Half a dozen pickup trucks with campers were around now, evidently here for the night, but hardly anyone was outside. Along the W edge of the park, just beyond the picnic tables, an embankment of large dark rocks protected the shoreline from the waves of Kugmallit Bay. Scattered among these rocks were large amounts of driftwood.

The ocean breeze was cool, and getting cooler. A fire would be nice! Lupe came along to sniff, while SPHP gathered driftwood. A fire was soon going. SPHP slowly nursed it into a larger and larger bonfire, until it actually threw off some decent heat, if one stood close enough.

A woman came by selling moccasins she had made by hand out of moose hide and seal skin. She was friendly and chatty, but soon discovered she had forgotten to bring any moccasins with her. She left to go back home to get them. After a while, she did return. The moccasins were darling, skillfully made, but for little children or babies. The woman never said how much she wanted for them. She did say she could make 2.5 pairs per day. When SPHP didn’t have a use for them, she moved on looking for someone else to talk to.

After a while, a fog moved in, and it got noticeably colder. Lupe was ready to call it a day. SPHP let her into the G6, and drew her blankie over her. The Carolina Dog settled in for an Arctic Ocean snooze, and did not return.

SPHP kept the bonfire going, while watching and listening to the ocean. No one else was out now. The fog lifted, and it got a little warmer again. Off to the N, a long line of brighter sky appeared. For several hours it drew closer, but never arrived. The fire devoured large quantities of driftwood. Poles 5 feet long, and 7 or 8 inches thick, disappeared.

By midnight, nearly all light had faded from the sky. Weary, and a bit cold from the wind, SPHP doused the fire. What an evening it had been, though! Think of it, only 1,426 miles from the top of the world! The rest of the night was spent at desolate Pingo Canadian Landmark.8-21-18, 7:30 AM, 33°F – Tiny snowflakes filled the air as SPHP drove back to the park at the N end of Tuktoyaktuk for the last time. The snow was already over and done with when Lupe arrived to find Peter having breakfast in the park’s open air covered shelter. SPHP chatted with him, while Peter gave Loop a pat. He was about to leave Tuktoyaktuk on his bicycle to begin the next leg of his incredible journey to Latin America.

Wishing Peter good luck and safe travels, Lupe and SPHP set off for a third and final stroll along the Arctic Ocean. The morning breeze was quite cold, but Lupe made the whole wonderful trek again. For the first time since she had arrived in Tuk, patches of blue sky could be seen. The bracing journey was over far too soon, but SPHP did remember to pick out a third souvenir stone from Kugmallit Bay.

Lupe on her final stroll along the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks N.

Not anxious to depart, breakfast was clam chowder again at the same picnic table at the park at the N end of Tuk. SPHP then caught up the trip journal while still enjoying a view of the Arctic Ocean.

10:55 AM, 33°F – What a joyful, incredible experience it had been! The time had come, though, for Lupe to say good-bye, most likely forever, to the Arctic Ocean and Tuktoyaktuk. SPHP was so glad she had come! Lupe got up on a couple of rocks for photos.

A little blue sky appears at the end of Lupe’s stay in Tuktoyaktuk.

And then, for a few final moments, The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stood poised in the chill breeze on the last of the big rocks she would ever be on next to the Arctic Ocean.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood at the **Arctic Ocean**.

Savored briefly, the moment passed.

Puppy, ho! Onward!

For a few minutes, tiny snowflakes again filled the air as SPHP drove out of Tuktoyaktuk after fueling the G6. The American Dingo was leaving the Land of the Pingos! New adventures lay ahead, but the Arctic Ocean was an adventure never to be forgotten.

20 km from Tuk, Lupe saw Peter again! He was pedaling hard, going fast, and waved as the G6 slowed beside him for a few seconds. Lupe barked. SPHP waved back. Peter was smiling as the G6 re-accelerated. For a few seconds he lingered – receding, then vanishing, in the rear view mirror.

The American Dingo was now destined to repeat her long journey N in reverse. Cruising S on Highway 10 to Inuvik, the plan was to head back to the Richardson Mountains on the Yukon border. Hopefully, the weather would have improved since Lupe had left Wright Pass three days ago. Maybe tomorrow the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood could begin climbing a few of the mountains she had skipped on her way N due to poor weather?

11:49 AM, 35°F, Hwy 10 – The silvery Eskimo Lakes, looking like a vast, lonely sea, were on the horizon. Worth a quick stop! Lupe could see a few small hills near the lakes. Perhaps pingos SPHP hadn’t noticed on the way N? Quite likely.

Approaching the **Eskimo Lakes** again, this time on the way S.

**Eskimo Lakes** from Highway 10 with help from the telephoto lens.

2:55 PM, 42°F – Along the Dempster Highway S of Inuvik, SPHP stopped at the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii viewpoint again. Loop needed a break from the G6. This time she took the shorter trail to the R at the first fork. The trail led to a viewpoint from which the Carolina Dog would be able to see Campbell Lake.

Lupe never made it to the end of the trail. A large group of people was ahead of her lingering on a big deck at the viewpoint. Since Loop had seen Campbell lake before, there was no sense in disturbing them. Lupe did go far enough to be able to see part of Campbell Lake again, this time on a prettier day.

Campbell Lake, S of Inuvik, on a prettier day than the first time Lupe had been here. Photo looks NW.

4:53 PM, 44°F, Mackenzie River – At the Mackenzie River, there was a bit of a wait for the MV Louis Cardinal ferry.

The MV Louis Cardinal approaches from the village of Tsiigehtchic. Photo looks SE.

Once aboard the ferry, SPHP recognized a pickup with a camper that Lupe had seen back at Tuktoyaktuk yesterday. SPHP had spoken briefly with the owner, Steve, who was from Alberta. Somewhat surprisingly, Steve appeared outside the G6 on the way over the Mackenzie River. He had important news – a warning, actually.

Steve said he had been amazed to discover that he had internet service on his phone here. He’d just finished checking the weather report. A blizzard was forecast for Eagle Plains and the Richardson Mountains tonight! 80 to 100 kph (50 – 60 mph) winds with 1 to 2 meters (3 – 6 feet) of snow expected! Thought SPHP might like to know. Steve said he was going to try to get to Eagle Plains this evening before the storm hit. At least there were facilities there where he could ride it out.

Gah! Suddenly, that changed everything, didn’t it? Weather forecasts are notoriously over-hyped these days, but even so, if only a fraction of what was predicted came to pass, it spelled the end of any peakbagging hopes Lupe had in the Richardson Mountains. More than a few inches of snow, and the G6 wouldn’t be able to handle it, either.

Summer was about to end. Who knew what getting stranded out here might mean? Big trouble, and a bigger adventure than Loop and SPHP had bargained for, that much was certain. SPHP thought about all the rain that had fallen the night Lupe had spent at the Arctic Circle on the way N. A regular monsoon. If it had been only a few degrees colder out, a meter or two of snow would have fallen back then, easy!

So, as Steve’s pickup pulled away from the ferry after crossing the Mackenzie River, the race to beat the storm was on. Plans demolished, suddenly the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood’s new goal was to flee the true Arctic as fast as possible! Steve was right, she at least had to get to the protection of Eagle Plains.

6:37 PM, 41°F, Peel River – The Dempster Highway had become slick and wet shortly before reaching the Peel River, but the ferry was ready and waiting to go when Lupe arrived. She was across in practically no time, heading for the Richardson Mountains.

7:10 PM, 35°F, Midway Lake – The road is damp, but not as wet as back at the Peel River. The temperature has been dropping, however, and high points ahead are in fog. So far, overall visibility is still good.

7:22 PM, 34°F, 35 km to Wright Pass – Up in the fog now, heading into the first of the Richardson Mountains.

7:43 PM, 32°F – Visibility dropped to as little as 100 yards for a short while, but the road then dropped down into a valley where a rushing stream was on the L. Passed 2 guys on heavily-laden bicycles pedaling hard uphill against the wind. They are still heading N! Wondering how Peter is doing? Maybe he is in Inuvik by now?

Having lost enough elevation to escape the fog, visibility is decent again. More of the Richardson Mountains are ahead, their summits cloaked in fog. The highway is merely damp.

Out of the fog for the moment near the Richardson Mountains.

7:55 PM, 35°F – Can see Wright Pass ahead! Peak 3850 immediately to the S of the pass is in view part of the time, too, plus part of the start of the route to Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.) to the N. Seems like such a shame that Lupe is going to have to shoot straight on over the pass to continue the journey S, but the forecast is simply too dire to ignore.

Approaching **Wright Pass** (L of Center), the border with the Yukon Territory. **Peak 3850** is on the L (S) side of the pass. Photo looks SW.

**Wright Pass** (Center) from the NE with help from the telephoto lens.

8:14 PM, 32°F, Wright Pass – A 30 mph wind is blowing out of the NE over Wright Pass. Only a few minutes ago, Peak 3850 had been visible, but it’s completely hidden by fog now. Too bad, but none of these peaks are going to happen. Lupe must press on. She is already most of the way through the Richardson Mountains now, and can begin her descent down the W side of the range.

Good-bye Northwest Territories, hello Yukon!

Loop takes a stretch W of the Richardson Mountains shortly after going over Wright Pass. Lupe never did get to see much of the Richardson Mountains. Just as foggy now as when she was on her way N.

8:01 PM, 35°F, Rock River campground – Gained an hour upon entering the Yukon Territory at Wright Pass. Out of the mountains, and heading S. Stopped briefly at Lupe’s favorite No. 6 spot at the Rock River campground, site of the great 2018 Yukon Territory Squirrel Rush not so ago. Gave Loop her dinner. Cleaned windows and headlights. Onward!

8:29 PM, 33°F – Nearly due W of Mount Hare (4,070 ft.), yet another peak in the Richardson Mountains that Lupe never got to see, much less climb. 30 mph wind and light rain. Refreshingly brisk outside, but only for a minute, then it’s back into the G6! The road is a pothole mess, but not as wet, and actually in somewhat better condition than when Lupe was headed N. No blizzard has materialized so far.

Due W of Mount Hare somewhere along in here. Photo looks SE.

10:04 AM, 32°F, Eagle Plains – Apparently, some things never change. It was raining steadily by the time Lupe went past the Arctic Circle again. The Dempster Highway was one pothole after another, each jarring jolt launching a sudden spray of dirty water up over the G6. The windows were a complete mess, especially on Lupe’s side, but SPHP kept driving slowly onward.

Getting close to the Arctic Circle again on the way S.

The road was super slick going down into and back up out of the Eagle River valley, but the G6 finally made it to civilization at Eagle Plains.

After fueling the G6, SPHP went into the Eagle Plains Hotel. Restaurant closed for the night, but the bar was open. No rooms left, booked solid. Could park at the campground for $20. No snow yet, but 32°F outside, raining, and yeah, the forecast was abysmal for the next three days. Blizzard due to arrive any time now.

Steve from Alberta, who had given the initial warning about the weather back at the Mackenzie River, appeared. He had been able to drive faster in his pickup, and had made it to Eagle Plains a while ago. Steve said he was going to hang out at the campground here overnight, and wait to see what tomorrow would bring. Another guy said he had just gotten in from Tombstone Territorial Park. The weather was worse down there – heavy rain when he’d left some hours ago.

Decision time. Wait here where there were facilities, and see what the morrow would bring, likely getting snowed in at Eagle Plains, or … ?

Or, what? Try to beat the storm and get all the way back to pavement at the start of the Dempster Highway? Probably impossible, and would that even do any good?

Maybe. SPHP thanked Steve from Alberta for the blizzard warning, then went back out into the storm to join Lupe in the G6. Still 32°F, and still just raining. Not even completely dark out yet. SPHP turned the key. The G6 lit up, and sprang to life.

The adventures just keep coming, don’t they Loopster?

No room at the inn, SPHP?

Nope. No vacancy. Sorry about that.

The Carolina Dog heaved a great sigh, and stared out at the long, wet road ahead. A room would have been nice.

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

To the Arctic Ocean on the New All-Season Road from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-19-18)

Part 2 of Day 16 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

12:25 PM, 55°F – On the way out of Inuvik on Highway 10, a sign along the new all-season road said it was 148 km (92 miles) to Tuktoyaktuk, a little farther than other information SPHP had seen saying it was only 140 km. Whatever. Lupe was already thousands of miles from home. 5 miles extra, if that’s what it actually was, didn’t make a bit of difference.

What did matter was the sense of excitement. Lupe was on her way to the Arctic Ocean! Last year she had almost been there, going all the way N to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway in Alaska. Loopster had been only half a dozen miles or so from Prudhoe Bay, but Dingoes hadn’t been allowed on the heavily restricted ocean tour, so she’d never actually seen it.

SPHP had taken the Arctic Ocean tour as Lupe’s personal representative. Nice, but that wasn’t the same as actually being there herself. Having traveled so far, the American Dingo had been forced to leave Deadhorse resigned to the notion that there was no way she was ever going to see the Arctic Ocean, despite how close she’d come to it.

And then, in April this year, SPHP happened upon the electrifying news that Highway 10 from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk had officially opened for the first time on November 15, 2017! Lupe could get to the Arctic Ocean, and not just on a brief guided tour. In Tuktoyaktuk, the Carolina Dog could go and hang out by the Arctic Ocean as long as she wanted to!

For years it had been possible to drive to Tuktoyaktuk from Inuvik, but only in the Arctic winter by taking an ice road on the frozen Mackenzie River. However, the frigid ice road was now history. Highway 10 was open all year around. And that meant 2018 was the first year ever when it was possible to drive clear to the Arctic Ocean in the summer at anywhere other than Deadhorse, Alaska.

Unrestricted access to the Arctic Ocean! That had changed everything. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood simply had to go! And so now here she was a year later, once again way up N of the Arctic Circle, this time in Canada’s Northwest Territories on brand new Hwy 10 heading for Tuktoyaktuk, Land of the Pingos, to see the Arctic Ocean for herself!

Exactly what Lupe would see on the way to Tuktoyaktuk was a mystery.

Loop just N of Inuvik on the new all-season road to Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean!

12:42 PM, Hwy 10, km 10 – Leaving Inuvik, Highway 10 went straight N. Off to the NNW, a low blue ridge could be seen in the distance. For a while, Lupe was getting closer to it. This ridge was part of the Caribou Hills along the E boundary of the giant Mackenzie River delta, only glimpses of which could be seen to the W.

10 km from Inuvik. The distant ridge on the R is part of the **Caribou Hills**. The region in the distance at Center and to the L is part of the enormous **Mackenzie River delta**. Photo looks NW.

12:54 PM – After going N for a while, Highway 10 turned NE away from the Mackenzie River and the Caribou Hills. Lupe was beyond any tall trees now. Only a few stunted trees remained, but plenty of tall bushes were still evident. Mostly, though, this was a region of gently rolling open tundra dotted with small lakes.

So far, the highway had been smooth. SPHP was easily able to drive the speed limit of 70 km per hour (43.5 mph). No amenities had been seen yet, not even a single pullout alongside the road.

Looking N across the gently rolling tundra after the highway turned NE.

Small lakes dotted the landscape. Photo looks S.

1:28 PM, 53°F, Hwy 10, km 48 – Lupe had just gone by a sign saying 100 km to Tuktoyaktuk. The highway had deteriorated right after her last stop, becoming wet and soft. Ruts and potholes were forming, but even they were soft, not jarring. Hard and jarring might have been better. SPHP drove near the middle of the road in order to avoid the super soft shoulders. Getting stuck in the mud would not be good!

Out on the tundra, a last thin, scraggly forest struggled for survival.

A third of the way to Tuktoyaktuk, a final thin, scraggly forest strives to hang on.

1:43 PM – Thankfully, the road soon improved again. Not as soft or muddy. Lupe seemed to be going N or NNE most of the time. No more trees, but still a fair number of large bushes. To the NW, Loop could see a long ridge. Maybe still a part of the Caribou Hills? In any case, the ridge was far, far away. Still lots of lakes around, some of them larger than the lakes seen up to this point.

As Lupe continued N, some of the many lakes were larger than before.

The highway was in better shape again, which was a relief.

2:09 PM, Hwy 10, km 64.5 – The road has been good. Must be close to an airport. Loopster has been all excited about three fairly large airplanes flying low close to the road. The first one seemed to be landing, and the other two taking off. Three lakes are L of the road in a hilly area. Have also seen a much larger lake off to the NW, possibly Parsons Lake, and a huge one to the E.

Lakes in a hilly area 64.5 km from Inuvik.

2:33 PM, Hwy 10, km 80 – Passed a sign saying “Tuktoyaktuk 70” a couple of km back. Lupe is over halfway there! So far, so good. The road has swung E, and Loop has a better view of the huge lake ahead. Believe it is part of the Eskimo Lakes.

80 km from Inuvik, more than halfway to Tuktoyaktuk! The vast lake ahead is likely part of the **Eskimo Lakes**.

3:16 PM, Hwy 10, km 123 – Saw a sign in the rearview mirror saying 110 km to Inuvik a few km back. That puts Lupe only 35 km from Tuk!

SPHP had expected this territory to be almost perfectly flat, nothing but lakes connected by vast swamps, but up until now that hasn’t been the case. Loop has been traveling through an area of rolling hills. She has seen a great many small distinct lakes. Most don’t seem to be connected, sitting isolated from one another at different elevations in depressions surrounded by higher ground.

The terrain has recently flattened out, though. Off to the E, about 0.25 mile from the highway, is the first ice hill Lupe has seen. This is a pingo, another sign that the American Dingo is getting close to Tuktoyaktuk. Pingos are dome-shaped, earth-covered hills with a core of ice pushed up from the permafrost, and can be over 150 feet high. Most pingos look like isolated, over-grown anthills.

About 35 km from Tuktoyaktuk, Lupe sees her first pingo.

The first pingo as seen with help from the telephoto lens.

3:41 PM – Up ahead, Highway 10 passes between two lakes. Tuktoyaktuk has not appeared yet, but can’t be much farther.

Nearing Tuktoyaktuk, the road is still in good condition. Looper is going to make it!

3:59 PM, 50°F – Two pingos are in sight, one of them quite large. They sit beyond a lake, or what even might be an arm of the Arctic Ocean! A few buildings and towers of Tuktoyaktuk are in view. Almost there!

Almost to Tuktoyaktuk, more pingos come into view.

**Ibyuk Pingo**, the highest pingo in Canada and 2nd highest in the world with help from the telephoto lens.

4:13 PM – The American Dingo has made it! Lupe has reached the Arctic Ocean! A commemorative sign welcomes her to Tuktoyaktuk, Land of the Pingos, but she isn’t quite to Tuk yet. The village is still a bit farther.

No matter. It’s a joyous moment! What had been impossible a year ago has come to pass. Loop and SPHP walk down to the edge of the Arctic Ocean to relish and capture the moment.

Success! Lupe reaches **Tareoknitok Lagoon** of the **Arctic Ocean** near Tuktoyaktuk.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L) and **Split Pingo** (R) across **Tareoknitok Lagoon**. Photo looks W.

Lupe by the **Arctic Ocean** for the first time.

Carolina Dogs are seldom seen along the **Arctic Ocean**, but it does happen!

At 160 feet (49 m) in height, **Ibyuk Pingo** (R) is the 2nd highest in the world. The world’s tallest pingo is Kadleroshilik Pingo located 40 km SE of Prudhoe Bay in Alaska. Kadleroshilik is 178 feet (54 m) high. Lupe hadn’t seen Kadleroshilik Pingo when she went to Deadhorse, Alaska last year, but apparently hadn’t been far from it.

The village of Tuktoyaktuk was still another 5 km. Nearly surrounded by land, what Lupe had seen thus far at Tareoknitok Lagoon didn’t look like open ocean, which it wasn’t. Might as well go on to Tuk, and see what the Arctic Ocean looked like from there.

A little past the Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk sign was a side road on the L that went to the Pingo Canadian Landmark, a park that protects Ibyuk and 7 other pingos out of more than 1350 pingos known to exist in the Tuktoyaktuk region.

Lupe did not stop in at the Pingo Canadian Landmark just yet. SPHP kept driving. The next thing Lupe went by was the Tuktoyaktuk landfill. Not a good first impression, and a sad sight to behold.

The landfill did not make for a good first impression on the way into Tuktoyaktuk.

No trees grow in the Tuktoyaktuk region, but a huge pile of driftwood was seen jammed up in a cove. The highway curved past a number of widely scattered long, boxy industrial buildings reminiscent of some of the things Lupe had seen in Deadhorse, Alaska last year.

Entering the village of Tuktoyaktuk, Highway 10 went past a big pond. A L turn onto Old Airport Road led to an another opportunity to get close to the ocean.

By the **Arctic Ocean** off Old Airport Road.

Looked like Lupe was a little late for the Beluga Jamboree.

Tuktoyaktuk from the Old Airport Road area.

Tuktoyaktuk sits at the SE corner of Kugmallit Bay, a much larger bay of the Arctic Ocean than Tareoknitok Lagoon. This time Lupe really was next to the open ocean!

At **Kugmallit Bay** of the **Arctic Ocean**.

A little park at the far N end of Tuktoyaktuk at the end of Beaufort Road turned out to be an even better place to see the Arctic Ocean. This park was as far N as any road in Canada went, and apparently the area where tourists were supposed to go to see the ocean. Lupe was on a peninsula surrounded by water on 3 sides. Tuktoyaktuk Harbor was to the E, and Kugmallit Bay to the N and W.

Taktoyaktuk’s visitor information center was located in a small shack on the L (W) at the park entrance. Toward the R (E) was a monument to the Trans Canada Trail. Picnic tables with fire pits were set up right along the Arctic Ocean, and the park also featured an open air covered shelter.

Lupe by the Trans Canada Trail monument. Tuktoyaktuk’s visitor information center is the small brown shack on the L.

Lupe went to check out the tiny visitor center. Dingoes were welcome! Lupe could come right in! The friendly young man staffing the center even awarded Loop with a certificate for having traveled the highway from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk. The certificate had been pre-signed by the mayor of Tuktoyaktuk, too.

Lupe was awarded this certificate signed by the mayor of Tuktoyaktuk for having come to visit his fair city.

SPHP was given a street map of Tuktoyaktuk and a brochure. The young man took the time to highlight the locations of various attractions and services available. Restaurants, bed and breakfasts, the grocery store, the gas station, churches, etc.

Street map of Tuktoyaktuk. N is to the R. Free from the visitor information center.

The park wasn’t crowded at all. Only a few vehicles here, but the young man at the visitor information center said that response to the opening of the all-season road to Tuktoyaktuk this first year had been above and beyond all expectations. Day use of the park and its facilities were still free, but on August 1st, they had started to charge $20 per night for tents or overnight parking.

Since use of the picnic tables was free, Lupe and SPHP went and claimed one. Dinner by the Arctic Ocean! So much fun! Lupe met a local dog that may or may not have been a stray. The dog was friendly, and for a while things went well, but when her new friend showed a keen interest in Lupe’s Alpo, the Carolina Dog bared her fangs.

To prevent a fight, SPHP persuaded Lupe to get in the G6. The other dog was bigger, and Loop was quite happy to comply. She could have her Alpo in peace, and still see the ocean.

Picnic tables were set up right next to the **Arctic Ocean**. No charge for using them. What a deal!

Where else can you have a picnic at the **Arctic Ocean**?

When SPHP first heard about the all-season highway to Tuktoyaktuk, a big dream had been not only for Lupe to see the Arctic Ocean, but that maybe she would even be able to walk for miles along the beach. Maps of the area, and what Lupe had seen once she got here, had sort of ruled that possibility out. The shoreline was irregularly shaped, interrupted by many coves, some of which were in people’s backyards, boggy, and/or otherwise inaccessible.

That didn’t mean there might not be somewhere to explore the ocean, other than at the small park. After dinner, Lupe and SPHP set out to see if such a place could be found. Heading back S along Beaufort Road, Lupe went on by the visitor information center. A little farther on the L was a big wooden ship, Our Lady of Lourdes, which had once upon a time plied these waters.

Loop by Our Lady of Lourdes, a Tuktoyaktuk landmark close to the visitor information center along Beaufort Road.

After passing a few houses, Lupe came to a cemetery with a white picket fence on the R (W) side of Beaufort Road. S of the cemetery, a side road led toward an apartment building. By going around to the back side of the apartments and continuing S, Lupe was able to reach a nice stretch of ocean shoreline.

Loop and SPHP proceeded slowly S along a beach of small stones. What a remarkable evening! Here was Lupe, sniffing and exploring along the Arctic Ocean at the far N edge of the continent!

Waves rolled in on a gentle breeze. The beach was gray. The ocean was gray. Most of the sky was gray, too, except where the unseen sun colored a few clouds yellow off to the NW. Some of the same pingos Lupe had seen on the way into Tuk were in view.

Lupe on her first evening stroll along the **Arctic Ocean** at Tuktoyaktuk. **Split Pingo** in the distance on the L.

**Kugmallit Bay** of the **Arctic Ocean** a little before sunset.

No one else was out here walking the beach. Lupe did come to a lady from Tuktoyaktuk, who was busy cooking hot dogs and making s’mores on a driftwood fire for 4 girls. One of the girls, Lydia, was quite smitten with Lupe. Since Dingoes are fans of love and praise, the Carolina Dog graciously allowed Lydia to pet her and speak kindly to her.

Meanwhile, SPHP asked where all the driftwood came from since no trees grew around here? The woman said all the driftwood floats down the Mackenzie River, and gets carried to Tuk by currents, or during storms or windy days.

The shoreline eventually curved back to the E toward some houses. This was about as far as Lupe could go.

On the way back, SPHP picked out a stone for Lupe to keep as a souvenir of her evening stroll along Kugmallit Bay. The stone was tan with a few white stripes and a white spot. It was rounded and fairly smooth, but had little pock marks, too. Nothing too extraordinary about it, except where it came from.

Lupe with her souvenir rock from her first ever evening stroll along the **Arctic Ocean**.

The souvenir rock. Last year, SPHP had brought Lupe a rock from the Beaufort Sea near Deadhorse in Alaska after taking an Arctic Ocean tour there that Lupe hadn’t been able to go on.

*A rock! For me? Always thinking of me, aren’t you, SPHP! Thank you, so much!*

Walking slowly, the whole stroll along the Arctic Ocean took only a little over an hour. Still, it was a wonderful time. The evening was drawing to a close, though. Lupe and SPHP left Tuktoyaktuk, and went to the Pingo Canadian Landmark near the welcome sign on the way into town.

Lupe saw a beautiful sunset over Tareoknitok Lagoon before settling in for the night. What a memorable day for the American Dingo! Looper’s Arctic Ocean adventures in the Land of the Pingos weren’t over yet, though. Tomorrow she would have all day to explore Tuktoyaktuk, and take another stroll along Kugmallit Bay.

Sunset at Tareoknitok Lagoon, Pingo Canadian Landmark, Northwest Territories, Canada 8-19-18

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Pingo Canadian Landmark

Trans Canada Trail

Deadhorse Alaska – the Arctic Ocean Tour & Sagavanirktok River Walk, Alaska (8-21-17)

To the End of the Dempster Highway – Wright Pass to Inuvik, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-18-18 & 8-19-18)

Part 2 of Day 15 & Part 1 of Day 16 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-18-18, 3:11 PM, Dempster Highway km 465.0, boundary of the Yukon Territory & Northwest Territories – Reaching Wright Pass (3,133 ft.) was a momentous occasion! For the first time, The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stood gazing E into the mysterious Northwest Territories, and saw – nothing.

Not exactly nothing, but so close to it, that it amounted to the same thing. Fog! Nothing, but fog.

Fog, wind, and a commemorative sign welcome Lupe to **Wright Pass**, on the border of the Northwest Territories.

American Dingoes are explorers and adventurers by nature. However, they prefer to be fair weather friends with the great outdoors, and this wasn’t it. The 40 mph W wind driving the cold, damp fog over Wright Pass felt frigid. Didn’t take Looper long to see all the fog she needed to see! The Northwest Territories could remain a land of mystery a bit longer. Against the gale, Lupe and SPHP retreated to the G6.

Too bad conditions weren’t better. Peak 3850, an easy climb on a decent day, was just S of Wright Pass. Better yet, Mount Sittichinli (5,164 ft.), the high point of the entire Richardson Range was only 12 km N. Neither were going to happen today, though, that much was clear.

May as well forget peakbagging. No sense in just sitting here waiting. Who knew how long the weather might stay like this? 272 km (169 miles) to Inuvik! Onward! SPHP fired up the G6, and Lupe’s adventures in the Northwest Territories were underway.

3:27 PM – Loop had scarcely left Wright Pass when SPHP drove out of the fog. The Northwest Territories! There they were, right outside the window. Had to stop for this!

A magical scene greeted the Carolina Dog. Beneath an ocean of gray clouds, a pale yellow-green land, barely brightened by feeble, filtered Arctic sunlight, sloped away toward low hills and dimly perceived mountains on a horizon still obscured by fog. The impression was one of untouched remote beauty, a severe peace and solitude, and perhaps most of all, of unpredictability.

Was it going to rain? Was the sun was about to break through? Or was this contest between shadowy gloom and hopeful brilliance destined to an endless ebb and flow? Hard to say. The Northwest Territories looked like mystery and adventure, a land where anything might happen!

*So this is the Northwest Territories! Very beautiful, but it looks like rain, or maybe sunshine?* Photo looks E.

First glimpse of the **Northwest Territories** with help from the telephoto lens.

SPHP congratulated Lupe on reaching the Northwest Territories, then it was back on the road again. The Dempster Highway wound NE, at first out onto open territory, but then back into the mountains again for a while. From a peakbagging standpoint, what could be seen from the highway was encouraging. The Richardson Mountains were not rugged. On a clear day, the Carolina Dog ought to be able to climb almost any peak she wanted to attempt.

The road itself was a bit of a surprise. The Dempster Highway had been firm, but rough back in the Yukon. Here in the Northwest Territories, the highway looked virtually brand new. Wide and smooth, and covered with plenty of gravel. If anything, the Dempster Highway was almost too soft, especially near the shoulders. With little traffic to worry about, SPHP simply drove near the middle.

After a descent from Wright Pass, the Dempster Highway winds through open territory. Surprisingly, the road was in great shape here in the Northwest Territories. Much better than it had been back in the Yukon! Photo looks NE.

Back in the **Richardson Mountains** again.

4:17 PM – Even before the highway left the Richardson Mountains for good, there had been signs the cloud cover might be beginning to break up. A few miles beyond the mountains out in open territory again, Lupe basked in sunshine for the first time in 2 days near a small lake.

Was this Midway Lake? Didn’t seem to be. The little lake was a pretty spot, but not very big. No signs or facilities, either.

After leaving the Richardson Mountains, Lupe basks in sunshine near a small lake.

The road was drier and firmer here. Must not have rained nearly so much as back in the Yukon.

4:40 PM – A few km past the small lake, Lupe did see Midway Lake S of the highway. Midway Lake was considerably larger, but SPHP hadn’t stopped for it. From up on a ridge a few km farther on, the terrain sloped gradually down to forested lowlands to the E. Somewhere out there was the Peel River, formed by the union of the Blackstone and Ogilvie Rivers, which Lupe had already come to back in the Yukon.

Lupe enjoys an outing on a ridge a few km E of Midway Lake. Photo looks NE.

Beyond the ridge, the highway lost elevation. The road finally made a sharp curve to the R (SE), and went down an escarpment marking the edge of the Peel River floodplain. Once down, the highway curved back to the L (E), and passed between a couple of lakes.

The American Dingo was ready for another sniff, so SPHP parked along the highway. Together Loop and SPHP took a quick stroll back to see the lakes. Both lakes were larger than the sunny one Lupe had stopped at a little while ago. Exactly how big they were was impossible to tell. Thick forest lining the shorelines hid at least part of each lake from view.

Satisfied with her inspection, Lupe returned to the G6.

Loop by a lake in the Peel River floodplain. Photo looks N.

5:24 PM, NWT km 74, Peel River – A couple of vehicles had gone by as Looper made her exploratory trek back along the highway to see the lakes. Upon returning to the G6, it turned out that the Peel River was just ahead. The only way across the river is aboard the MV Abraham Francis ferry, a free service. Both of the vehicles that had gone by were already aboard.

The ferry was about to leave, but SPHP was instantly waved forward. The ruts in the bank of the Peel River were so deep that the G6 scraped bottom. No damage was done, and the G6 managed to make it up the boarding ramp to barely squeeze in behind the other vehicles. Lupe was aboard the MV Abraham Francis!

Before she even realized what was happening, the Carolina Dog was crossing the Peel River! The whole process took only a minute or two. The ferry ride was so smooth, that only by looking out at the scenery was it possible to tell that the ferry was moving at all.

Approaching the MV Abraham Francis ferry at the **Peel River**.

Crossing the Peel River aboard the MV Abraham Francis. The ferry ride was free!

Once disembarked on the far shore, SPHP parked the G6 so Lupe could go check out the Peel River. As wide as the river was, it was amazing how quickly the ferry had crossed it.

The MV Abraham Francis ferry and **Peel** **River** from the E bank.

2 km E of the Peel River, Lupe had a good time sniffing during a stop for water at the Nitainlaii Territorial Park campground. At NWT km 86, a drive-through tour of Fort McPherson made less of an impression on her. The drive continued as the Dempster Highway headed E through lowlands that the map showed were full of lakes and swamps. However, Lupe saw little except forest until she reached the Mackenzie River.

7:22 PM, 56°F, NWT km 142, Mackenzie River – The Mackenzie River was enormous, even larger than the Peel River! Not really a surprise. The Mackenzie drains nearly 20% of Canada, and is the largest river in North America that flows into the Arctic Ocean.

The Dempster Highway reaches the Mackenzie River just downstream of its confluence with the Arctic Red River. Approaching the Mackenzie, Lupe could see a short section of the Arctic Red. On a bluff overlooking the Arctic Red River, the village of Tsiigehtchic was in sight.

Approaching the Mackenzie River. The Arctic Red River, is on the R. On the bluff above the Arctic Red River is the village of Tsiigehtchic. Photo looks NE.

Lupe was in for another free ferry ride! The MV Louis Cardinal ferry serves 3 points on the Mackenzie river – the Dempster Highway on both sides of the river, and the village of Tsiigehtchic. Without the ferry, the village would be completely isolated from the Dempster, or any other highway system.

This time, there was a bit of a wait for the MV Louis Cardinal to arrive. Loopster took this opportunity to escape the G6 for a closer look at the magnificent Mackenzie River.

Don’t drive straight into the Mackenzie River! Stop and wait for the ferry.

Loopster by the **Mackenzie River**. The ferry is on the way! Photo looks N.

Looking upstream. The Arctic Red River joins in from the R. Photo looks NE.

Lupe’s free ride across the **Mackenzie River** arrives.

Crossing the Mackenzie River aboard the MV Louis Cardinal was another fun, incredibly smooth ride. The trip across the giant Mackenzie took a little longer than at the Peel River, but was still soon over.

The Dempster Highway now headed N. E of the Mackenzie River, Lupe was in a region of flat, featureless wetlands. Forests of Black Spruce and Tamarack lined the highway for miles, generally concealing ponds and lakes from view. Intermittent light rain fell.

The Dempster Highway parallels the unseen Mackenzie River through a featureless region of forests and wetlands. Photo looks N.

8:40 PM, 52°F, NWT km 178, Rengling River – The only significant change in scenery came at the Rengling River valley. The Rengling River was so pretty, and so different from the rest of this region, that SPHP stopped to let Lupe out of the G6 for a few minutes.

The **Rengling River** was the scenic highlight of the area E of the Mackenzie River. Photo looks E.

After crossing the bridge over the Rengling River, the Dempster Highway climbed right back out of the river valley. Lupe’s journey N on the dull flatlands resumed.

9:20 PM, 52°F, NWT km 207(?) – Since leaving the Arctic Circle, there had been no rest areas along the Dempster Highway. Other than infrequent villages, campgrounds, and highway maintenance areas, rare pullouts and occasional unmarked side roads been about the only places to get off the highway.

It was getting late. When SPHP spotted a wide parking pad tucked into the forest on the W side of the highway, that was it! Lupe could stay there for the night. Still enough daylight to take a nice little walk, too.

From the end of the parking pad, an overgrown abandoned road led into the forest. Lupe was quite happy exploring it, but didn’t get far. Swarms of mosquitoes put an end to her parking pad forest adventure, as SPHP insisted upon retreating to the G6 for the night.

8-19-18, 7:50 AM, NWT km 207(?) – Daylight in the swamps! Yeah, well, the Carolina Dog could just forget about any mosquito-infested stroll this morning. Her overnight parking pad was quickly abandoned. Back on the road N again! However, since Loop had been cooped up in the G6 most of the last day and a half, SPHP kept an eye out for an opportunity to let her burn off some energy.

Lupe at her overnight parking pad. The abandoned Mosquito Trail disappears into the greenery beyond her.

8:25 AM, NWT km 232, Tithegeh Chii Vitaii overlook, Gwich’in Territorial Park – Happily, an opportunity came sooner rather than later. At the top of a rise, a parking area appeared on the L (W) side of the highway. A sign said this was the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii territorial viewpoint.

*Hmm. What’s so special about these bushes?*

There was nothing to be seen from right along the highway, but a real trail, not a fake mosquito one, disappeared into the bush. Information posted at the trailhead indicated that the trail was supposed to lead to a view of Campbell Lake from bluffs several hundred feet above it.

Lupe was all for exploring the trail, and it didn’t sound like a bad idea to SPHP, either. Why not? Looper needed to get out and do something.

*A trail! Come on! Let’s go see Campbell Lake.*

Lupe had scarcely begun when she came to a junction. A map posted back at the trailhead had shown that the fork to the R was a shorter spur trail, presumably to a nearby viewpoint. The fork to the L would lead to a longer loop overlooking Campbell Lake.

Since long was what the American Dingo wanted, she went L. With a name like Loopster, she was going to do the whole loop.

The trail had barely begun when Lupe came to this fork. She went L taking the longer loop trail. The trail to the R is a shorter out and back spur.

The trail made a gradual descent, crossing a boardwalk over a marshy spot. Within 5 minutes, Lupe reached a second fork. Again she went L, taking the long way to Campbell Lake, though it hardly mattered which way she went, since this was where the loop trail began.

A long boardwalk led up a hillside.

Crossing a marshy spot after the first trail junction.

Lupe again went L at this second fork 5 minutes from the trailhead.

Sometimes on boardwalks over wet spots, or stairs on steeper terrain, but most often just on the ground, the trail led through a boreal forest. Loopster came to a line of cliffs, perhaps overlooking an ancient river channel, for another parallel set of cliffs was nearby. There wasn’t much to see yet, although at one point Lupe caught a glimpse of the Dempster Highway back to the E beyond a lake.

The trail led to a line of low cliffs, perhaps overlooking an ancient river channel.

At a thinly forested opening, the Dempster Highway could be seen again beyond a lake. Photo Looks SE.

The trail went SW for a while, but eventually turned W. Lupe mostly gained elevation at an easy pace. When the trail began to level out, she started getting some views. The Carolina Dog had made it to a line of bluffs overlooking the far S end of Campbell Lake.

Even farther S was another big bluff, a continuation of the line of cliffs Lupe was already on top of. To the W was a gray and green patchwork of low islands, swamps, and open water.

This view was intriguing. On the Dempster Highway, Lupe had been traveling through lowlands which looked very much like this on maps, but all she had seen from the G6 was forest. These bluffs enabled her to actually see the pattern of wetlands from a bird’s-eye view.

Still climbing, the trail turns W ascending to a line of bluffs overlooking Campbell Lake. Photo looks W.

As the trail starts leveling out, Lupe gets a first glimpse of wetlands at the S end of Campbell Lake. Photo looks WSW.

A bird’s-eye view of wetlands at the **S end of Campbell Lake**. Photo looks W.

Looking NW toward the main body of **Campbell Lake**.

The trail turned N. By now it had deteriorated to the point where it was braided and much harder to follow, but the American Dingo could tell where it was going. For a while, she continued to gain elevation as she followed the line of cliffs. The farther N she went, the more she could see of Campbell Lake.

**Wetlands S of Campbell Lake** from another high point.

A cairn sits atop a boulder marking the nearly non-existent trail in this area.

The best view of Campbell Lake wasn’t from the highest point, but at the far N end. From across the lake, a cool, humid W breeze swept over this viewpoint. The sky was uniformly gray. Campbell Lake stretched away to the N beyond vision.

At the N end of the bluffs where the view of **Campbell Lake** was best. Photo looks N.

And that was about it. From here, a long stairway led down to a valley. At the base of the stairs, a much shorter section of trail than the way Lupe had come led back to the highway.

*Well. that’s about it! We’ll complete the loop taking the short way back now.*

Even at a leisurely pace, the whole trek to see Campbell Lake had taken only a little over an hour. 3 km farther along the Dempster Highway (NWT km 235.0) SPHP spotted an entrance to the Gwich’in Territorial Park campground. A short drive through the campground, which was open, but seemingly deserted, led to an access point along the E shore.

Having seen Campbell Lake from on high, Lupe went down to a plastic floating dock to experience the lake up close.

**Campbell Lake** from the dock at the Gwich’in Territorial campground. Photo looks N.

August, yet not a soul was around. No boats on the lake. No activity at all. Small waves rocked the dock only a little. A landlubber at heart, the Carolina Dog abandoned the dock to sniff along the shore.

11:05 AM, NWT km 266.0 at Jak Park – Satisfied with her tour of Campbell Lake, Lupe returned to the Dempster Highway. Her next stop was at Jak Territorial Park where a 10 meter high lookout tower provides views of the Mackenzie River delta and Richardson Mountains.

Unfortunately, although the campground was open, the lookout tower was not. It had fallen into disrepair. Although the tower looked sturdy enough, access was blocked.

Lupe arrives at the 10 meter high lookout tower at Jak Park.

11:25 AM, NWT km 272.0, Inuvik – At Jak Territorial Park the end was near. 6 km farther, the American Dingo reached the official end of the Dempster Highway. She was 737 km from where the Dempster had started E of Dawson City in the Yukon Territory.

Naturally, a quick stop was mandatory at the commemorative sign on the outskirts of Inuvik. After that, Lupe would be free to explore Inuvik, the only town (population ~ 3,500) amounting to more than a tiny village along the entire Dempster Highway.

737 km from its start E of Dawson City in the Yukon Territory, Lupe reaches the end of the Dempster Highway in **Inuvik, Northwest Territories**.

This sign is on the R side of the Dempster Highway coming into Inuvik. Can’t miss it!

In Inuvik, signs listed a number of attractions, including the Western Arctic Visitor Center, the Inuvik Community Greenhouse, Ingamo Hall, a golf course, a campground and more.

Most of these attractions weren’t going to be Dingo friendly. Lupe settled on Our Lady of Victory Parish, also known as the Igloo Church, as what she most wanted to see while in Inuvik. Loopster couldn’t go in, but she could at least sit on the steps outside. The igloo-shaped exterior was what made the church famous in the first place, anyway.

A year ago, Inuvik, at end of the Dempster Highway, would have been it. No way to go farther N except by boat, plane, or the winter ice road on the frozen Mackenzie River. However, in November, 2017, a brand new all-season highway from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk had opened up! In 2018, for the first time ever, it was possible to drive N all the way to Tuk from Inuvik in the summer.

The G6 guzzled expensive gas ($1.77 CAN/liter) at the North Wind gas station, and then, at 12:25 PM (55°F), the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood left Inuvik heading N on the new all-season highway.

140 km (87 miles) to Tuktoyaktuk, land of the Pingos, and the Arctic Ocean!

On the new all-season road to Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean!

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

The Dempster Highway Travelogue Guide

Northwest Territories Ferry Information