Dempster Highway – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Sapper Hill, Nahoni Range, Ogilvie Mountains, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-19-23)

Day 27 & Part 1 of Day 28 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-17-23, 10:10 PM – Back at the gravel yard used as a trailhead, spirits were running high. Mount Hare (4,052 ft.) had been an unexpected success! Lupe and SPHP were both full of Dinty Moore beef stew, and the American Dingo had spent much of the evening happily chomping away on a Busy Rib Hide and a Dingo stick as rewards for her intrepid journey. Now, comfortably situated on her pink blanket, she was all ears, listening to SPHP’s dissertation on what might be.

Well fed, comfy, and all ears during the late evening planning session.

I feel great! Don’t you, Loop?

Simply fantastic, SPHP! What’cha thinking for tomorrow’s exploits?

If this weather will hold just one more day for us, we can still go back to the Northwest Territories tomorrow, and climb Peak 1402M! Tag that one, and you will have visited every peak on your list of possibilities in the Richardson Mountains on this Dingo Vacation. A complete success!

That would be awesome, SPHP, but do we have enough fuel to do that without getting ourselves stranded?

Yes, I’ve been thinking about that, Loopster. Even if we go back, we still ought to be able to make it to Eagle Plains once were done with 70 extra miles worth of fuel to spare.

8-18-23, 12:34 PM, 51ºF – So much for that bright idea. The sky had been glumly overcast all morning. Last evening’s clearing trend was long gone. Not a hint of blue sky. A rain shower passed through a little while ago, and it was breezy, even down here.

Trip journal’s caught up, Loop. I’m calling it. The weather isn’t that bad, but it isn’t very good, either. Peak 1402M isn’t happening. Too chancy. Even if we drove clear back there, it’s so late now that an attempt would have to wait until tomorrow, anyway.

So we’re heading S to Eagle Plains, SPHP?

Yup, and beyond, Sweet Puppy! First stop, the Arctic Circle.

Even though the Arctic Circle wasn’t much farther, that wasn’t entirely true. Struck by the beauty of the Richardson Mountains foothills under a gloomy sky, SPHP stopped briefly for a quick look.

**Richardson Mountains foothills** (L) a few miles N of the Arctic Circle. Photo looks SE.

8-18-23, 12:49 PM, the Arctic Circle – This was going to be about it as far as decent views of the Richardson Mountains on this Dingo Vacation. Lupe hopped out of the RAV4 for a final look around.

At the **Arctic Circle display** along the **Dempster Highway**. Photo looks E.

Sadly, time for the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood to bid farewell to the true Arctic for another year, Loopster.

We had fun, and a lot of success, didn’t we, SPHP?

Sure did, Loop. An epic trip! Remember 2019? This was as far N as we got. A blizzard forced us to turn tail and flee S.

And this year we didn’t see a thing here on our way N due to the smoke of the Arctic apocalypse, SPHP. A beautiful view today, though.

Certainly was! For 15 minutes, Lupe and SPHP hung around enjoying it before continuing the drive S.

**Yukon Territory** from the **Arctic Circle**. Photo looks SSE.

Final view of the **Richardson Mountains**. Photo looks NE.

On the way to Eagle Plains, enormous regions of blackened boreal forest that had burned during this summer’s Arctic apocalypse were evident. Happily, the fires were all out now, and the smoke that had been here not so long ago was completely gone.

8-18-23, 2:00 PM, Eagle Plains – SPHP enjoyed a club sandwich at the Arctic Circle restaurant then fueled up the RAV4. As always, it felt rather sad to be on the way S again after true Arctic adventures, but evidently it had been the right decision. Resuming the drive, the sky brightened, patches of blue appeared, and the temperature hit a comfortable 61ºF.

While SPHP admired the expansive views of the Eagle Plains from the high ridges that the Dempster Highway wound along, Lupe snoozed on her pink blanket. The RAV4 rolled on mile after mile, raising a great plume of dust. Eventually the Ogilvie Mountains came into view, and a long descent along Seven Mile Hill led down into the Ogilvie River valley.

8-18-23, 7:13 PM – After a scenic drive S up the big valley, the Dempster Highway turned SE, crossing a bridge over the Ogilvie River. Less than a km farther, SPHP parked the RAV4 at a roomy spot just off the highway right before the bridge over Engineer Creek.

Hey ho, sleepy Dingo! Had enough of a beauty rest yet? You ought to be ready for a stroll by now aren’t you?

Long ago, SPHP!

Great! We’re parked near the W end of Sapper Hill (3,084 ft.). Let’s get out, and see if we can find a good spot to begin an ascent tomorrow.

By the bridge over **Engineer Creek**. Photo looks SE.

The Carolina Dog no sooner leapt out of the RAV4 than, sniffing bushes along the edge of the parking area, she had important news to impart.

Found it, SPHP!

Found what, Loop?

The trail up Sapper Hill, silly!

There’s a trail? Are you sure? Show me!

It starts right here, SPHP.

15 feet from the RAV4, Lupe stood next to a boulder with a metal sign post by it, but no sign. On the ground, an arrow made of rocks pointed straight into the bushes.

At the **start of the Sapper Hill trail**. Photo looks NE.

Huh. This is great news, Loopster! I had no idea that there was a trail.

Following the trail into the bushes and partway up a rather steep slope revealed that this was indeed a continuous path, and not some fluke.

Alrighty, far enough, Looper. Weather permitting, we’ll take a shot at climbing Sapper Hill tomorrow. Too late to do it now.

Returning to the Dempster Highway, Lupe enjoyed an easy evening stroll all the way to the bridge over the Ogilvie River and back, then went the opposite direction almost all the way to the Engineer Creek campground before calling it good for the night.

**Mount Jeckell** (Center) from the **Dempster Highway**. Photo looks NW.

8-19-23, 7:50 AM, 48ºF, N side of the bridge over Engineer Creek – Overcast, but otherwise not a bad day. The weather seemed stable, not threatening at all, when the American Dingo passed the rock arrow and headed NE up into the bushes. The Sapper Hill trail climbed steeply for 100+ feet before reaching a more gentle slope overlooking the Dempster Highway and the distinctive orange-brown waters of Engineer Creek. Looking ENE, big rock formations were visible far up the forested slope.

Heading for the **massive rock formations** (L of Center) at the **W end of Sapper Hill**. Photo looks ENE.

Lupe had often seen Sapper Hill (3,084 ft.) from the Dempster Highway or the bridge over the Ogilvie River on two prior Dingo Vacations. It had always been of interest. Rising 1,000 feet above Engineer Creek, while Sapper Hill wasn’t a particularly big mountain, from the S it possessed a distinctive, easily-recognized appearance. A giant E/W running ridge with very steep sides, Sapper Hill featured a crest more than a km long capped by a line of massive gray rock formations of nearly equal height.

As the American Dingo climbed toward the formations at the upper W end of the mountain, the big question that had always existed was on SPHP’s mind. How difficult it was going to be to get to the true summit? Did Lupe even stand a chance of getting there? Depending on how hard maneuvering among the rocks would prove to be, it might be difficult just to identify the true summit, much less reach it.

Guess we’ll know the answer soon enough, Loopster.

Heading ENE through a thin boreal forest with a soft, thick tundra floor, the assistance provided by the unexpected trail made maintaining good progress during the ascent easy. The slope eventually steepened, and the trail soon turned N as it entering a clearing. The lowest rock formations at the W end of the Sapper Hill ridge were now directly ahead.

Entering the **clearing**. Photo looks NNE.

Heading for the **first rock formations** (R). **Mount Jeckell** (L). Photo looks N.

Just before reaching two giant pillars of rock, the main trail veered E, heading straight up a rather steep slope. However, a very short spur at this turn led directly toward the gap between the pillars.

A window on the world! Let’s go see what’s there, SPHP.

Approaching the **pillars**. Photo looks N.

The window framed a terrific view of Mount Jeckell (4,724 ft.) beyond the Ogilvie River and Dempster Highway 800 feet below.

**Mount Jeckell** (L of Center) from the **gap between the pillars**. Photo looks NW.

Wow! This first big view is awesome, SPHP.

Indeed! And of particular interest, too, Looper. Mount Jeckell is on your list of possibilities.

Exciting! Are we going to climb Mount Jeckell while we’re here, SPHP?

I don’t know, Loop. We’ll see. Mount Jeckell’s true summit is way over at the W end, farthest from the Dempster Highway. Hard to tell for sure from here, but what I can see looks pretty tough by our standards.

Returning to the main trail, Lupe followed it E, climbing steeply toward two enormous fins of rock with an even bigger gap between them.

Back on the **main trail**. Photo looks E.

Entering the big gap between the fins. Photo looks E.

The Sapper Hill trail went right through the gap between the big fins. The fin on the L (N) quickly proved to be more of another isolated pillar. Lupe was soon past it. However, the fin on the R (S) turned out to be the leading edge of a long, continuous, 50 foot high rock wall.

On the **N side of the wall of rock that continued E**. Photo looks ESE.

A glance back at the **pillar** (R of Center) that had been on the L on the way up. **Engineer Creek** and the **Ogilvie River** are seen below flowing toward their **confluence** (Center). Photo looks W.

As Lupe kept climbing and following the trail E, she was now trapped by the wall of rock on the N side of Sapper Hill, which dropped away very sharply. The trail stayed high, close to the wall where the terrain wasn’t that steep. Approaching another tall rock formation on the L, the trail leveled out as Lupe reached a pass.

The view from here was somewhat encouraging. Beyond a minor dip into a forested region, a series of rock formations ahead weren’t as tall and vertical as the others the Carolina Dog had come to so far.

Following the **rock wall** toward the **pass** (L of Center) ahead. Photo looks E.

We might be able to get to the tops of some of these high points, SPHP.

Yes, this definitely looks more promising, Loop. Let’s keep going, though, far enough to see if there’s anything higher ahead. If not, we’ll come back and try to identify and tag Sapper Hill’s summit.

Not to be! Beyond the dip, various rock formations were on both sides of the trail as Lupe climbed to a second pass that was a little higher. The trail continued E from here, now S of a long line of rock formations on the crest of the ridge. Lupe was still generally gaining a little elevation as the trail bounced up and down along a forested, sloping bench that was fairly wide, although sometimes the bench narrowed, putting the American Dingo near cliffs.

Now trapped on the S side of the mountain, the views were spectacular in that direction. Engineer Creek and the Dempster Highway were far below, with more of the Ogilvie Mountains visible beyond a region of lower, forested hills.

Heading down into the **dip** on the way to the **second pass** (Center). Photo looks ESE.

Above **cliffs** on the way E. **Engineer Creek** and the **Dempster Highway** (L) below. Photo looks SW.

The view from the first pass had been encouraging, but before getting too far, Lupe came to one that was not. In fact, it was a serious blow to her hopes of ever reaching the summit of Sapper Hill. Farther E, several prominent high points sat atop the most massive, continuous, vertical wall of rock yet. The closest high point was a big tower jutting skyward.

**Sapper Hill’s likely true summit** (L of Center). Photo looks E.

Not 100% certain yet, but that tower appears to be our objective, Loop.

We’re doomed, SPHP!

Looks that way, Looper. Sure can’t get to the top from this side. We need to find a way back over to the N side of the mountain. Maybe there’s a route up from there, if we can get to it?

Even SPHP had little faith in that notion, but the American Dingo might as well check out the possibilities. Continuing E, Lupe searched for an opportunity to get back over to the N side of the mountain. Her initial attempt well up on a rock wall led only to a dead end.

At the **dead end** (Center). Photo looks E.

Not gonna work, Loopster. Scary and dangerous. We better retreat.

Returning to the trail, SPHP kept hoping that it might lead up to the top of the ridge at some point. In the vicinity of the apparent summit would have been ideal, but anywhere might have helped. However, it never did. Instead, staying well below the crest of the ridge, the trail simply continued E.

Looking for a way up. **Potential summit** (R of Center). Photo looks E.

Below a jagged part of the ridge. Photo looks NW.

Still stuck on the **S side of the mountain**. Photo looks E.

Passing the vicinity of the currently unseen summit, Lupe kept going. The trail faded away. Occasional small cairns continued to mark the route, encouraging further exploration. The views were amazing, and the rock wall itself was incredibly scenic.

Below the **impassable wall**. Photo looks ENE.

An incredible view! **Engineer Creek** (Center & L), **Dempster Highway** (R of Center). Photo looks SE.

Same scene, zoomed in a bit from another vantage point. Photo looks SE.

However, the towering rock wall went on and on, and eventually the view ahead strongly suggested that this was far enough.

Think this is a about it, Sweet Puppy! Appears we’re never going to be able to get up to the top of the ridge, and the E end looks impassable, too. We can’t go around it.

We’re turning back, SPHP?

Yeah, might as well, Loop. It’s not happening. Even if we somehow find a spot where we can reach the ridgeline, we aren’t going to be able to get to the summit.

On the way back, we can still see how high we can get, can’t we, SPHP?

Sure, why not, Loopster?

The first attempt to get as high as possible on the mountain came shortly after starting back W. Ascending a very steep slope, Lupe managed to reach a cleft among the rocks just below a 4 foot drop. SPHP might have been able to get up onto a boulder above this cleft, but Lupe would have needed a boost. The highest rocks in this region appeared to be another 20 feet higher.

This will have to be good enough, Loop. Not going to boost you up there. Too dangerous. We might have a hard time getting back down safely.

Retreating, Lupe continued W. The scenery was a little different going this way.

**Dempster Highway** and **Engineer Creek** (far L). **Ogilvie River** (L of Center). Photo looks W.

The **scenic ridgeline**. Photo looks WNW.

Exploring a **steep slope**. Photo looks W.

A second attempt to get as high as possible came quite a bit farther W, at a spot where a ramp of vegetation so steep that SPHP was reduced to clinging to trees to get up it led to an easier slope that actually brought Lupe over to the N side of the ridge. The Carolina Dog managed to get close to a big knob along the ridgeline, but she couldn’t get up on it, which didn’t really matter, since the knob wasn’t the true summit.

Back on the **N side of the ridge** near the **knob along the ridgeline**. Photo looks E.

While the first attempt to get as high as possible might have been the highest point Lupe reached on Sapper Hill, getting to the ridgeline felt like more of an accomplishment. SPHP shook her paw.

Congratulations, Loopster! After simply driving by admiring it all these years, we finally made it up Sapper Hill (3,084 ft.)!

Well, thank you, SPHP, but are congratulations really in order? We never made it to the true summit. Don’t even really know how high we got, do we? Did you make a GPS track? What does it say?

Yes, we’ve got a GPS track, but how accurate it is elevation-wise, I don’t know, Loop. It claims we got to 3,119 feet. That’s 950 meters, and the topo map shows the highest contour as 940 meters, so it’s within reason. Yet we have to admit that from a peakbagging standpoint, this has been a fail. Even so, we did our best, and made it high on the mountain at multiple points. Not a total success, but a valiant effort!

It’s still disappointing that we didn’t get to the top, SPHP. On the other paw, for a small mountain, Sapper Hill has been truly amazing! It’s been fun exploring way up here. All these towering, dramatic rock formations along the crest of the ridge are impressive, and the views are spectacular! I’m glad we came.

8-19-23, 10:48 AM, 59ºF – Sapper Hill (3,084 ft.) – A bit E of the big knob, just below the crest of the ridge, there was a nice spot with a few trees and plenty of soft tundra where Lupe could relax in comfort. The views were tremendous, and a short rest break before heading back down the mountain seemed to be a good idea. While SPHP scanned the beautiful, unspoiled territory to the N, the American Dingo had water and a silver bowl of Taste the Wild, before curling up on the tundra.

Taking a break high on **Sapper Hill**. **Mount Jeckell** (far R). Photo looks WNW.

Of all the views to the N, the one toward the NNW was of most interest. Two peaks that had long been on Lupe’s list of possibilities were in sight, Mount Jeckell (4,724 ft.) and Peak 4265. A third coveted candidate, Transplant Mountain (4,331 ft.), remained hidden between them.

**Mount Jeckell** (far L), **Peak 4265** (far R). Photo looks NNW.

How do difficult do they look to you, SPHP?

Mount Jeckell looks tough, Loop. The W end where the true summit is, is likely too rugged for us. Peak 4265 is too far away to really tell. I see some rock bands that might cause us difficulty near the top, but maybe they don’t amount to anything? Based on the topo map, Transplant Mountain is probably easiest, but I can’t even see it from here.

15 minutes was about it for the break high on the N side of Sapper Hill. On the way back to the main trail, Lupe climbed an inspiring spire that served as a terrific Dingo perch with a fabulous view. Peak 4068, Mount Jeckell, the Ogilvie River, and the Dempster Highway were all in sight.

On the inspiring spire. **Peak 4068** (Center), **Mount Jeckell** (far R), **Ogilvie River** and **Dempster Highway** (R). Photo looks W.

**Sapper Hill’s most splendid Dingo perch**. **Peak 4068** (R). Photo looks W.

Another look with help from the telephoto lens. **Peak 4068** (R). Photo looks W.

The rest of the return was also very scenic. Once back to the Sapper Hill trail, it was all so perfectly easy, too! Near the W end of the mountain, the view approaching the first pass Lupe had come to on the way up was simply exquisite.

Heading back down to the main trail. Photo looks SW.

Approaching the **first pass** (Center) again. Photo looks W.

**First pass** (Center) in sunshine. Photo looks W.

8-19-23, 12:02 PM, 62ºF, at the RAV4 by the Engineer Creek bridge –

What a terrific half day adventure Sapper Hill turned out to be, Loopster! Wish we’d made it to the top, but I truly enjoyed it all the same.

Me, too, SPHP! So beautiful up there! What’s next, lunch?

Yeah, but not here. You’re going to have to wait a while, chow Dingo. How about lunch at the bubbling pond?

We’re heading S, SPHP? What about Mount Jeckell, Transplant Mountain, and Peak 4265? Aren’t we going to climb any of them?

Not so sure we’re even capable of doing them, Looper, so we’re going to try another peak where I believe we’ll stand a better chance of success. Thinking we should get into position for it this afternoon, since it’s way down at Tombstone Territorial Park.

Oh, I love Tombstone Park! That sounds awesome, too, SPHP!

The Carolina Dog was soon on her pink blanket ready for another very scenic drive S, but only a little more than a km after crossing the bridge over Engineer Creek, SPHP pulled into the Engineer Creek campground and parked the RAV4.

One more thing we’ve got to do here, Loopster! C’mon!

Trotting WNW back along the Dempster Highway, Lupe soon stopped.

Such a lovely day this has turned into! How’s this, SPHP?

Perfect, Loop. Got it! Thank you.

With the iconic view of Sapper Hill as seen from the Dempster Highway down by Engineer Creek captured on pixels, Lupe headed back to the RAV4, and the road to adventure. (End, 8-19-23, 12:22 PM)

**Sapper Hill**, Nahoni Range, Ogilvie Mountains, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-19-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track & Ascent Statistics

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

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Mount Hare, Richardson Mountains, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-17-23)

Part 2 of Day 25 & Day 26 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-16-23, 10:40 AM, 52ºF – It did seem a shame to leave the Land of the Pingos and the Arctic Ocean on the first sunny morning since Lupe had arrived, but her time in Tuktoyaktuk was over. Hwy 10 was dusty and bumpy as the RAV4 rolled S through low hills and a multitude of lakes on the way back to Inuvik. On her pink blanket, Lupe was bright-eyed and alert, watching the world go by.

Will we be driving all day, SPHP?

Yeah, most of it, Loopster. We’ll make a couple of quick stops for fuel and supplies in Inuvik. Among other things, I’m going to buy out the rest of their Allsorts licorice stock at North Mart! I like it! Then we have 2 more long drives to the ferries at the Mackenzie and Peel rivers. Should be back in the Richardson Mountains by this evening. If the weather’s decent, I’m hoping we can climb Peak 1402M tomorrow.

We’ll pass the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii trail again S of Inuvik, SPHP. Can we at least stop there for a while? Last chance to see Campbell Lake, and I love doing that loop up to the ridge overlooking it.

Oh, I don’t want to miss out on that, either, Looper. It will be a nice break. Besides, we’ve never seen Campbell Lake on a sunny day before.

8-16-23, 3:12 PM, 55ºF – So far the day had gone according to plan. Doing the loop trail counter-clockwise this time, the American Dingo was back on the bluff near the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Loop High Point (385 ft.) with the best view of Campbell Lake. Fun being here again! Unfortunately, the Carolina Dog still hadn’t seen the big lake on a sunny day. Before reaching Inuvik, the sky had clouded over.

**Campbell Lake** from the **Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Loop**. Photo looks NNE.

Once back at the RAV4, the dusty drive S resumed, minus any further stops of consequence. Lupe mostly snoozed, but every now and then briefly peered out at the dull, flat road. The Carolina Dog reached the Mackenzie River just in time for SPHP to drive right aboard the free ferry moments before it took off. After crossing the big river, the Dempster Highway entered a somewhat more interesting region of lakes and a few low hills among the boreal forest.

8-16-23, 6:53 PM, 56ºF – After a second ferry crossing at the Peel River, an increasingly scenic drive SW to the Richardson Mountains began.

A glance back at the **MV Abraham Francis ferry** after crossing the **Peel River**. Photo looks NE.

Beautiful, unspoiled territory as far as the eye could see, but as the RAV4 approached the Richardson Mountains, the darkly overcast sky was not at all encouraging. Without a major change for the better, prospects seemed equally dim for a decent shot at Peak 1402M.

Not looking very good, SPHP. You never know, though! Might be sunny tomorrow.

True enough, but I wouldn’t bet on it, Loop. We’ll see if we can find a spot to hang out for the night, though, up at the first pass. May as well be in position to take advantage, if we do get lucky.

8-16-23, 7:55 PM, 52ºF – Driving slowly as the RAV4 approached the Pass 770M region, what SPHP had been looking for materialized on the L (S). A wide dirt road led off to what appeared to be a highway maintenance yard where stacks of pipe, presumably for use as culverts, were visible.

A simple pullout would be better, Loop, but this ought to serve our purpose for the time being. You hungry? Getting to be about that time.

Only the lower slopes of the mountains were in view, the mountaintops all draped in soft gray obscurity, as SPHP shared a tasty feast of piping hot chicken and dumplings with the Carolina Dog. Suddenly, Lupe quit eating. Staring W across the tundra, her hackles rose up.

Glancing over that way, SPHP saw them, too. A large grizzly was leading two cubs along the base of a mountain. A moment later, they were lost in the veil of a fog that swept in from the E, hiding them from view.

8-17-23, 8:33 AM, Pass 770M – Fog repeatedly formed down in the valley to the W, then came sweeping up this way, but always dissipated before getting this far. Overhead, small patches of blue provided reason for hope amid a mostly cloudy sky.

A narrow road Lupe had ventured over to during yesterday evening’s fog, was now in view on the opposite side of the Dempster Highway. High above this road, the microwave tower it went to was also in sight.

I don’t know, Looper. A better situation than I expected, but too much of a long shot unless there’s further improvement. I’ll get the pack ready just in case, then work on the trip journal while we wait to see what develops.

8-17-23, 10:36 AM, MDT, 48ºF, Pass 770M – Sniffing the cool, fresh air, Lupe stood on the road to the highway maintenance yard. Sadly, every last bit of blue sky had vanished long ago.

On the road to the **highway maintenance yard**. Photo looks SE.

Pondering the situation at **Pass 770M**. **Microwave tower** (L). Photo looks NW.

How much longer are we going to wait, SPHP? Can we at least take a walk?

Sure, Loop. Pack’s ready, but I really hesitate to set out for Peak 1402M in this. No point in it. Way too easy for the mountains to just get all socked in with fog again.

Within minutes of setting out on a short walk, the first raindrops began to fall. Soon a steady rain set in.

Back to the RAV4, Loopster! Hate to say it, but this isn’t going to work. No sense in hanging around any longer.

8-17-23, 10:38 AM, PDT, 47ºF, Wright Pass – During the drive here, Lupe had enjoyed seeing the Northwest Territories again as she had first found them back in 2018 – a land of great beauty and mystery, the sky full of big clouds with fog clinging to all the mountaintops, with a mix of both mist and sunshine moving over the lowlands below. No such mix here on the border with the Yukon. Wright Pass was socked in with dense fog.

Back at **Wright Pass** on the **Yukon/Northwest Territories border**.

Seems we’ve made the right decision in pressing on, Loop.

We had a lot of fun in the Northwest Territories on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP. Sad to be leaving, but I’m glad we came.

Next stop, the Arctic Circle, Looper, and beyond that, Eagle Plains.

Heading S into the Yukon from Wright Pass, the RAV4 was soon below the fog shrouding the mountains. For a while, SPHP drove through light rain showers. Within half an hour, though, the rain was over. Starting to seem like just an ordinary cloudy day.

As the drive continued, shafts of sunlight could be seen illuminating the tundra here and there over a wide area W of the Richardson Mountains.

You know, Loop, I’m beginning to think that nothing’s going to happen here. Maybe these clouds are going to start breaking up?

Are you thinking what I’m thinking, SPHP?

We’ll soon be coming to the turn for a peak we’ve wanting to visit for years, Loopster. Might have to abort, if I’m wrong about the weather, but this is our absolute last chance to climb a mountain in the Richardson Range on this Dingo Vacation.

Mount Hare (4,052 ft.), SPHP?

Yeah, Mount Hare.

Let’s go for it, SPHP!

8-17-23, 12:14 PM, 56ºF – The L turn off the Dempster Highway toward the Richardson Mountains that SPHP had been looking for appeared roughly 10 km S of Vadziah Kan Creek. A narrow side road went 0.6 km E to a gravel yard situated at the base of the mountains. Still mighty cloudy, but it hadn’t rained for a while, and whether prudent, or not, Lupe and SPHP were both eager to give Mount Hare a shot.

Parked among the bushes at the **S end of the gravel yard**. Photo looks E.

A look at the **gravel yard**. Photo looks N.

The pack was already prepared, so after a quick look at the very roomy gravel yard, it was time.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Which way, SPHP?

SE, Loop! You probably can’t see it due to all these tall bushes, but there’s a hill not too far beyond them over that way that’s likely our best bet for getting to some firm ground without much vegetation fast.

Easily finding a route through the bushes, Lupe quickly emerged in a small valley. This drainage was a little tussocky and overgrown, but the hill of light gray scree that SPHP had been referring to was just ahead.

Heading for the **first scree hill**. Photo looks SE.

An easy traipse up the scree, which really was a nice, firm surface, to the top of this first hill didn’t take long. Looking ENE, a dip led to a slightly higher similar hill that wasn’t far away at all. Glancing back at the RAV4 down at the gravel yard, it was surprising how much elevation the American Dingo had already gained.

On the **first scree hill**. Photo looks ENE.

A quick glance back at the **RAV4** (Center) down at the **gravel yard**. **Dempster Highway** beyond. Photo looks NW.

Heading for the next scree hill was the obvious choice. Once there, a fairly deep valley was ahead. Looking NNE, a relatively minor dip led to a beautiful slope and a high point promising access to a much higher ridge to the NE.

That’s the way we want to go, SPHP. Follow me!

On the **second scree hill** contemplating **HP840M** (L of Center). Photo looks NNE.

The trudge up to HP840M was fairly steep, especially near the end. On the way, Lupe ran into low bushes, and even an easily avoided stand of stunted trees. HP840M proved to be a very scenic, somewhat dramatic point. A 20 foot high escarpment of sharply slanting rock, consisting of many thin layers, featured a line of small cliffs facing E.

Lupe went clear to the top of the HP840M ridge, which was only a few feet wide, and quite flat for 50 feet along its length. Tufts of tundra grew up here, which provided a comfy spot to take a short break. Views of the foothills of the Richardson Mountains, and the Dempster Highway off to the W, were already terrific.

On **HP840M**. **HP860M** (Center) ahead. Photo looks N.

Lupe on **HP840M**. **Dempster Highway** (R) in the distance. Photo looks S.

Wow! If we did nothing else, this view alone is worth the effort, Looper.

It’s tremendous, SPHP, but you’re not pooping out on me now. We’re going all the way to Mount Hare!

After 15 awesome minutes on HP840M, SPHP was ready to continue. On an easy and interesting slope where foot high lines of the thin-layered rock broke the surface standing almost perfectly on end, Lupe headed N toward HP860M. However, the Carolina Dog didn’t have to go clear to the top. Getting fairly close to it, she then made a traverse NE, taking a shortcut to a saddle she was going to have to descend to, anyway. Beyond that saddle was the next big climb to HP990M.

A quick glance back at **HP840M** (Center) after leaving it. Photo looks S.

Heading for **HP860M** (R of Center). Photo looks N.

Heading for the **saddle** (R) leading to **HP990M** (R), the next objective. Photo looks NE.

After losing 45 meters of elevation while gradually angling down a steep scree slope to the broad, rounded saddle E of HP860M, Lupe crossed the saddle and started up again. No obstacles at all, other than the steepness of the slope. The low tundra was gorgeous! Lupe soon came to a large patch of alpine bearberries that was turning red. Reaching the top of the rise above it, a short flat stretch led to a much steeper climb ahead.

Among the alpine bearberries. Photo looks ENE.

On the **level stretch**. Photo looks E.

This next climb ultimately led to a second level stretch. Beyond it was the final steep climb to the top of HP990M. Staying toward the S, in an attempt to avoid the steepest terrain, Lupe still had some distance to go when it began to rain hard enough to make SPHP to stop and put on the red rain jacket.

Dang! We’ll try to wait it out here, Loop, but maybe this is it?

And we were doing so well, too, SPHP!

I know, but I don’t dare go any farther if the weather’s turning against us, Loopster. Remember our prior trips to the Richardson Mountains?

Monsoons and blizzards, SPHP! Even in August.

Sitting huddled together in the rain, a deep valley was directly S. Across it, Peak 950M stood out as a sharp high point along the opposite ridge. It didn’t look all that much higher than where Lupe was now.

**Peak 950M** (Center) across the **deep valley**. Photo looks SSE.

10 minutes. That’s all the longer the issue was in doubt. Happily, the rain quit. Just a shower! Lupe went on. A very steep climb N soon got easier. Turning NE, HP990M was directly ahead.

8-17-23, 1:51 PM, HP990M – Her front paws on a damp, dark stone, the American Dingo stood near the sharp edge of a grassy summit. Beyond her, HP1070M, the next major objective along a long ridge was in view. In the distance, a higher ridge was partially hidden among the clouds.

**On HP990M**. **HP1070M** (R). Photo looks E.

Always something, Loopster.

What’s wrong, SPHP?

Mount Hare. See that distant ridge? That’s got to be it, Looper. Summit is in the clouds.

It quit raining. Maybe the sky will clear by the time we get there, SPHP?

Oh, I hope so! I really do, Loop.

No thought of turning back at all. As long as it didn’t start raining again or threaten to get completely fogged in, the Carolina Dog was going for it. Lupe wasn’t going to get a jillion chances at a peak 3,000 miles from home, or whatever it was, and the weather right now was easily the best it had ever been on the rare occasions when she’d been in this area.

One problem. While the enormous ridge ahead was clearly super easy terrain, the E side of HP990M was way steeper than the topo map would have one believe. Not all of it. The worst part was a bare, gritty scree slope maybe 40 feet in height. Descending to that lip, SPHP pondered the best route. Meanwhile, Lupe was already at the bottom looking back up.

C’mon, SPHP! Nothing to it!

Maybe with 4 on the floor, Sweet Puppy, but I’d rather not take a tumble.

Coming up this slope with poles wouldn’t even be an issue. Descending was different. Virtually nothing to cling to, and the poles weren’t long enough to help. SPHP finally chose a spot, sat down, and slid slowly, gripping whatever little bits of bedrock protruded at all.

Good job, SPHP! Classic little girl technique!

Hey, it worked, and who will ever know, unless a certain Dingo blabs it all over the internet? Onward! Puppy, ho!

Once safely down to the giant, rounded ridge, the views were incredible, and the mood was one of elation. Progress couldn’t have been easier or faster as Lupe headed for HP1070M.

On the gorgeous, super easy ridge walk to **HP1070M** (R).

Living large in the remote **Richardson Mountains**. **Peak 1110M** (R). Photo looks NNE.

Objective **HP1070M** (R). Photo looks ESE.

A glance back. **Peak 950M** (L), **gravel yard** (R of Center), **HP840M** (R). Photo looks SE.

Reaching the short section of ridgeline N of HP1070M brought a much more sobering view of what was ahead. No insurmountable obstacles. Far from it! No real obstacles at all, but the cloud ceiling was dropping. Significantly less of Mount Hare was in sight.

**Mount Hare** (Center), or what little can be seen of it, from the **ridge N of HP1070M**. Photo looks E.

Dingo feathers! It’s going the wrong way on us, Loopster.

Nothing to be done about it. If the ceiling kept dropping, Mount Hare was still far enough so that the only sensible thing would be to turn back. For now, though, perseverance remained the order of the day. Lupe turned S, heading for HP1070M.

Approaching **HP1070M** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

8-17-23, 2:48 PM, HP1070M – A cairn was up here. Kind of unexpected. Not much change in the overall situation. At least, it wasn’t any worse.

Can we take a break, SPHP?

I suppose, Loop. Guess there’s no real rush in heading up into the fog.

After sharing beef jerky and water with Lupe, SPHP munched on trail mix and honey-roasted peanuts. A breeze was out of the W, and looking back that way, the sky was lighter. Far off, a few spots of sunlit terrain remained visible among the lowlands. Perhaps a reason for hope?

Looking N, the summit of Peak 1110M not too far to the NNE remained in view, but some other peaks of similar height farther N were scraping the clouds.

**Peak 1110M** (far R) from **HP1070M**. Photo looks N.

I think it’s getting better over by Mount Hare, SPHP. I can see a little more of the ridge going to it than I could a few minutes ago.

Huh. I believe you’re right, Loopster. Let’s keep going!

From HP1070, a gradual loss of 80 meters of elevation led to a saddle along the ridge leading to Mount Hare. The American Dingo had only begun this descent when the improvement in the cloud ceiling started becoming more noticeable. Well before she got down to the saddle, the situation improved dramatically.

Heading down to the **saddle** (Center) along the **ridge to Mount Hare** (L). Photo looks E.

Luck of the Dingo! Suddenly appears we’ve got a decent chance of arriving at the top of Mount Hare when it’s cloud-free, Loop.

Onward, SPHP!

**Mount Hare** (Center) nearly cloud-free! Photo looks E.

HP1070M had only been about halfway to Mount Hare, but the romp down to the saddle was fast and super easy. Even SPHP was making great progress. Once down at the saddle, a long uphill march on a much narrower ridge was ahead. Nothing at all scary about it. No cliffs, big rock formations, or anything like that, and the ridge was always wide enough to keep trudging higher without having to give even a moment’s thought about the terrain.

Two high points were visible ahead, one right at the upper end of the ridge Lupe was climbing, the other one not too far from it, more to the S or SE. For a long way, the high point at the end of the ridge appeared to be the true summit. However, according to the topo map, that was only HP1210M. The high point toward the R was actually the true summit.

As the American Dingo headed up the ridge, progress was only limited by SPHP’s heart, leg, and lung capacity, and resulting frequent pauses to gasp for air. During these breathers, the views were most encouraging, especially toward the N where patches of sunshine were now moving across the mountains.

Starting up from the **saddle**. **HP1210M** (R of Center), **true summit** (R). Photo looks ENE.

A look at **Mount Hare’s SW ridge**. **HP1190M** (L). Photo looks SSE.

Making excellent progress! **HP1210M** (Center), **true summit** (far R). Photo looks ESE.

**Sunshine** to the N. **Peak 1100M** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Getting there! **HP1210M** (far L), **true summit** (far R). Photo looks SSE.

As Lupe reached HP1210M, the news on the cloud front was excellent. Mount Hare’s nearby summit was now completely cloud-free, the ceiling 200 feet above it. However, while the air had previously been calm or limited to a light breeze before, at this elevation, the W wind was much more powerful. The American Dingo arrived at a small cairn of dark rock in a chilly 30 mph gale.

In the wind at **HP1210M**. Photo looks S.

Paws on the **HP1210M cairn**. Photo looks E.

The views of the Richardson Mountains were amazing! It hardly seemed real or possible that Lupe was actually here. Yet only 0.33 km SSE along a gentle tundra-covered ridge, a long dreamed of success beckoned.

**Mount Hare** (Center) from **HP1210M**. Photo looks SSE.

Shall we, Loopster?

We shall, SPHP.

Then onward! Puppy, ho!

Despite the wild west wind, a brief, ecstatic journey of joy ensued.

**Mount Hare true summit**. Photo looks S.

8-17-24, 4:09 PM, Mount Hare (4,052 ft.) – At a small collection of loose gray rocks that may have once been a cairn, Lupe stood bracing herself against a gale from out of the W on the high point of a gently rounded, tundra-covered hill that was slightly elongated N/S. Not far above her, big clouds with dark gray bottoms raced E across the sky. An actual small cairn at equal elevation was another 30 feet S.

SPHP shook Lupe’s outstretched paw.

Oh, my gosh! It’s a dream come true, Loop! Mount Hare! We’re here! Can you you believe it? Congratulations, Sweet Puppy!

This brutal wind does tend to make it seem pretty real, SPHP. Only one thing lacking. If only a chocolate coconut bar would somehow magically materialize, that would be proof positive that this isn’t just a dream!

**HP1210M** (R of Center) from **Mount Hare’s summit**. Photo looks NNE.

I’ll take care of that right now. C’mon, Looper. Let’s get out of this wind. It’s cold!

Retreating 10 feet down the slope immediately E of the summit, SPHP sat down in a slight depression. Still mighty breezy, but better than being exposed to the wind’s full force. After sharing the reality confirming chocolate coconut bar, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap, and SPHP threw a jacket over her.

Mount Hare was clearly the highest peak in this part of the Richardson Mountains. Facing E, away from the wind, sunlight frequently played across a region of lower highlands devoid of any sharp summits. Many peaks were visible to the S where the sky was darker and even cloudier, but none higher than Mount Hare were that way.

Facing the **sun-dappled highlands**. Photo looks ENE.

The grandest views were to the N where countless peaks stretched away along the spine of the Richardson Mountains, connected by a maze of ridges separated by deep valleys. When in shadow, exposed rocks made the mountains look black. In sunlight, they were silver.

Two mountains higher than Mount Hare were on the far horizon, one due N, and the other NNE.

Wonder if either one of them is Mount Sittichinli, SPHP?

I was speculating about that, too, Loop. Maybe, but I rather doubt we can see Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.) from here. It’s a long way off. I really don’t know what peaks they are. North Wright Pass Mountain might make more sense. It’s closer.

For a while, the sky tended to clear. Patches of blue sailed by, sunlight brightening the land below. SPHP shared water and beef jerky with the Carolina Dog, then munched on honey nut peanuts and trail mix. The relentless wind discouraged any movement from this at least somewhat protected spot. At one point, nearly half of the sky turned blue!

More **highlands**, **lesser peaks**, and finally some **blue sky**. Photo looks SE.

After sitting there enjoying the splendid remote panoramas for half an hour, the inevitable moment arrived.

Loopster, we’ve got to move!

Picture time, SPHP?

It better be. My R leg is numb. You’ve got to get off my lap!

Unfortunately, the W wind hadn’t abated. Nevertheless, Lupe returned to the summit to survey the views in that direction, which hadn’t been in sight during the rest break. Beyond the Richardson Mountains, a vast territory of long ridges and lowlands stretched away to an indefinite horizon. Toward the SW, part of the Dempster Highway was in sight.

Back on the **windy summit**. Photo looks W.

**Mount Hare’s S Ridge** (foreground). Photo looks SSE.

By the **little cairn** at **Mount Hare’s summit**, **HP1210M** (R). Photo looks N.

As Lupe’s traditional summit hour drew to a close, for the first time, Mount Hare basked in sunshine for more than just occasional fleeting moments. The day brightened along with the landscapes and the mood.

The **rolling highlands** in sunshine. Photo looks E.

The **long ridge Lupe had come up** (foreground). **HP1070M** (far L). Photo looks WNW.

**HP1210M** (R of Center) in sunshine from **Mount Hare’s summit**. Photo looks NNE.

What a day, SPHP! It’s like the Richardson Mountains are wishing us well, knowing that we’ll be gone tomorrow.

This Dingo Vacation has been by far your best ever in this region, Loop. You did a lot! Before this trip, the weather had always been ghastly. Was starting to think that we’d never get to see the world from any peak in the Richardson Mountains, but we got to almost every one on your list of possibilities.

All true, and Mount Hare (4,052 ft.) had been the icing on the cake. Back in the fog at Wright Pass this morning, all hope had been lost for this moment on this Dingo Vacation, yet now, only hours later, Lupe was here. What a glorious experience it had been!

While bathed in sunlight at the true summit, SPHP shook the Carolina Dog’s paw once more.

Congratulations on your perseverance and grand success, Loopster! Stay here! I want to get one last photo of you up here in the sunshine before we head down.

Going only a little way down the NNE slope toward HP1210M, SPHP turned around. It wasn’t to be. At that very moment a shadow passed over the mountain. SPHP laughed, and took the shot, anyway.

Final moments on **Mount Hare**. Photo looks SSE.

C’mon, Loopster! That’s life. Can’t have everything. Onward! Puppy, ho!

The American Dingo came running.

Why not, SPHP? We do have everything, don’t we?

Guess you’re right, Looper. Everything we need, or as close to it as anyone ever comes.

8-17-23, 5:15 PM – Eh, could have waited a few minutes to take that shot. In the short time it took to get to HP1210M again, the light was back. Oh, well! This was almost as good.

Maybe even better, SPHP!

**Mount Hare** (L) from **HP1210M**. Photo looks SSE.

Most of the return was windier than the ascent had been, but such a happy time. Retracing her earlier route winding along the big ridges, Lupe roamed at will having an absolute blast, while SPHP enjoyed the splendid isolation, admiring the untouched wilderness in all directions.

Heading down from **HP1210M**. **HP1070M** (L). Photo looks WNW.

8-17-23, 6:18 PM, HP1070M – While still at close to the same elevation of most surrounding peaks, SPHP called a halt.

Take a break, Loop. Just want to spend a few minutes appreciating where we are before we go on.

And catch your breath, SPHP.

Yeah, that too.

Such a beautiful evening it turned out to be! Innumerable peaks along the spine of the Richardson Mountains marched away to the N. Back to the E, Mount Hare was lit up against a blue and white sky.

We were there once, Looper, not so long ago.

Mount Hare was fabulous, SPHP, but are we reminiscing already? It’s only been an hour!

Yeah, but why not, Loop? If only for a moment while it’s still so fresh, real, and in view, the way we’ll always want to remember Mount Hare.

Lupe looked carefully one last time, then sitting by the cairn, she closed her eyes as if meditating, committing it all to memory, every moment of hope and despair on the way to Mount Hare, and the wind-blown joy of actually being there. (End 7:50 PM)

**Mount Hare** from **HP1070M**, Richardson Mountains, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-17-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track & Ascent Statistics

The Dempster Highway Travelogue