Dempster Highway – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Ditching the Dempster & Doing Domes, Yukon Territory & Alaska (8-18-19)

Day 14 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-17-19, 10:05 PM, 32 ºF snowing hard, Arctic Circle, Yukon Territory –

So since when does a 60% chance of precipitation mean hours and hours of rain followed by a blizzard?

This is the Arctic Circle, SPHP, you have to be ready for anything!

Evidently. You realize, Looper, that if it keeps snowing like this tonight, we are going to be stuck here for who knows how long?

It snowed here for a little while in the evening last year, too, SPHP. Remember? It all turned to rain, though, and by noon the next day we were able to keep going.

Yeah, we lucked out, but this time we know that the forecast is for more of the same for the next 3 days. Any significant accumulation tonight means the G6 isn’t getting over Wright Pass tomorrow. If we can’t do that, there goes the plan to blow a few days going to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk again while waiting for conditions to improve in the Richardson Mountains.

Well, let’s see how things look in the morning.

Loop, I’d love to, but we can’t wait. The snow is forcing our paw. Have to decide now. Might already be too late to escape, if it keeps snowing like this. Want to stay and risk getting stuck here in a snowbank for days, or at least try to flee S?

That’s what you want to do, SPHP? Flee S?

Hate to, but our gamble hasn’t paid off. Not looking like the Arctic Ocean or any peaks in the Richardsons are in the cards. If we’d just gotten some rain, that would be one thing – we could hang in here a while yet, but the weather’s been getting worse and worse. Even if it stops snowing down here, the mountains are already blanketed with snow. Won’t even start to melt for at least 4 days.

A mere two hours after arriving at the Arctic Circle, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood faced the humiliation of having to retreat. None of her 2019 arctic adventures so long in the works were going to happen. At least the American Dingo had made it to the true arctic for a 4th year in a row, which was some minor consolation.

The G6 sprang to life, crept back onto the Dempster Highway, and began jolting and sloshing S. Lupe had ended up fleeing the true arctic in 2018, too. She’d actually made it to the Arctic Ocean, but a blizzard with high winds had threatened on the return trip S. A repeat performance was now underway.

Pitch dark out! The snow was flying when Lupe went past the Eagle Plains hotel again. Foolishly, SPHP didn’t stop. Already knew there was no room at the inn for Dingoes tonight, but should have at least topped off the gas tank. Only down a couple of gallons, but they might postpone a true emergency for a little while.

Virtually no traffic. Snow started accumulating on the road. Like last year, another tense hours-long drive, but the G6 kept crawling forward. Relief every time the top of a hill was reached. Visibility was horrid, but at least it wasn’t snowing as hard as back at the Arctic Circle.

In blinding snow, SPHP completely missed the huge Ogilvie Ridge turnout, but was suddenly aware that the G6 must already be headed down Seven Mile Hill. 35 ºF! Like last year, the Ogilvie River valley was a little warmer. The snow turned to rain, the road merely wet. Saved! Another harrowing escape! Weary, SPHP found a spot to park for the night. 8-18-19, 2:09 AM.

8-18-19, 7:42 AM – Saved? Morning’s first glance was alarming! Close to the G6, the Ogilvie River was tremendously swollen, coming within only a few feet of overflowing onto the Dempster Highway. Could have been swept away in the night! The thought was horrifying.

Lupe at road level next to the swollen **Ogilvie River**, which had risen tremendously overnight. About km 221 of the Dempster Highway.

Perhaps Lupe’s great escape was only partially successful? Snowing hard down here now, too. Fortunately not quite cold enough to stick. The Carolina Dog still had to get over Windy Pass. Might not be possible.

Less than a mile farther S, the Dempster Highway was reassuringly higher versus the river compared to where Lupe had spent the night.

8-18-19, 8:48 AM, 33 ºF, Engineer Creek, km 179 – The news was better than expected. The sky was lighter. Barely snowing now, and only a good dusting on the Ogilvie Mountains. A couple of vehicles had been by heading N, one a mere sedan like the G6. Apparently it was possible to get over Windy Pass.

By **Engineer Creek**, km 179. Photo looks S.

Did we do the right thing, Loopster?

What kind of a question is that, SPHP? You were the one in such a panic to retreat.

I know, but I wonder what really happened at the Arctic Circle last night? How much snow actually fell? Not that much down here.

Who knows? Seemed to be plenty of snow accumulating when we left. We’re a long way from the Arctic Circle now, SPHP. Don’t tell me you’re thinking of going back after all this! Are you crazy?

No, we’re still heading S. The prognosis wasn’t good, even if we didn’t get snowed in. Want to know something strange, though?

Do I have a choice?

Nope. Now that we are safely away, I sort of miss the intensity of facing the unknown.

That’s the adventurer in you, SPHP!

You really think so, Loop? Thank you!

Yes. And last night we saw the big chicken in you.

Hey! It was a logical decision.

Maybe. We’ll never know now how it would have turned out. So what’s the new plan, anyway, SPHP?

New plan? We’re going to complete our long joy ride, then ditch the Dempster Highway. Not going to hang around for days waiting for sunshine and warmer temps. Once we’re back to the N. Klondike Highway, we’ll turn W to Dawson City, take the free ferry across the Yukon River, and head for Alaska! Maybe you’ll get a chance to hit a couple of domes we missed out on last year?

Oh, I hope so! The scenery here has been magnificent, but I’m ready to get out and do something!

The road trip S resumed, with short stops here and there. Windy Pass looked and felt wintery, but the few snowflakes still flying were tiny. A little slush on the road presented no problem. By the time Lupe was back at the Blackstone River, the precipitation was all over and done with. Just a chilly, gray day.

Winter in mid-August at **Windy Pass**, km 152. Photo looks S.

Just enough snow had fallen along in here to beautify and highlight the rugged features of the mountains. Yes, yes, very lovely, but what really got Lupe excited was a moose dashing across the Dempster Highway!

The resulting barkfest was sweet, but disappointingly short. However, hopes for more action were soon raised. Lupe had seen only one moose, and when Two Moose Lake proved to be only a little farther down the road, she insisted on stopping.

That other moose ought to be around here somewhere! All senses on alert, Lupe patrolled the highway near Two Moose Lake, but stealth moose No. 2 was craftier than moose No. 1, remaining undetectable.

*Alright! Come on, SPHP! Moose No. 2 must be somewhere around here.* Photo looks NNE.

A brisk patrol of the Dempster Highway near **Two Moose Lake**. Photo looks S.

**Two Moose Lake** and the **Ogilvie Mountains**. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Two white swans took off from Two Moose Lake and flew away. No other movement. Disappointing and inexplicable. Oh, well. Back to the G6!

Another stop at the bubbly pond was a must! After that, shorter breaks to enjoy the snow-clad mountains on the way to North Fork Pass.

Back at the bubbly pond (km 95), a favorite Lupe hideout. Photo looks E.

An enticing unnamed peak. Photo looks SE.

Another look with help from the telephoto lens.

On the way to North Fork Pass, Tombstone Territorial Park. Photo looks SE.

8-18-19, 11:32 AM, 32 ºF, Tombstone Territorial Park – 24 hours after leaving the N Klondike River overlook, Lupe was back. Still overcast, and the temperature hadn’t budged a single degree off freezing, but visibility was a little better. This time Loop thought she could make out Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) at the far end of the valley.

**N Klondike River valley** (km 74). Photo looks SW.

**Tombstone Mountain** was faintly visible at the far end of the valley. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

8-18-19, 1:13 PM, 48 ºF, parking area at km 26 – Before ditching the Dempster entirely, SPHP stopped once more at the parking area where Lupe had woken up yesterday morning. Such a difference now that she was down out of the Ogilvie Mountains! Sunny and comfortably warm. While SPHP made lunch, the Carolina Dog even sought shade among the bushes.

*If the Arctic Circle had been like this, I would already be on top of **Peak 3850** in the Richardson Mountains!*

The whole jaunt up the Dempster Highway to the Arctic Circle had been more or less a fiasco, but had taken only 1.5 days. The American Dingo hadn’t gotten to climb a single peak, or even make an attempt on one, yet it had still been a ton of fun seeing all the gorgeous scenery again while clinging to a doomed hope for peakbagging success.

On the bright side, success was practically guaranteed now! The next peak on Lupe’s list of possible objectives was one she’d been to before. An easy drive-up, with a grand view of the fabled Yukon River! Half an hour after lunch, SPHP turned W on the N Klondike Highway. Loopster’s unproductive adventures along the Dempster Highway were over.

8-18-19, 3:55 PM, 50 ºF, Midnight Dome by Dawson City – So what if Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.) was a drive-up? Being on top of a mountain again felt great! No weather worries here! Lupe basked in sunshine. Throngs of people were coming and going, at least by Yukon Territory standards. And why not? A beautiful summer day, super easy access, and a splendid view overlooking Dawson City of Klondike Gold Rush fame along the mighty Yukon River.

*There’s **Dawson City** and the **Yukon River**! A shame we’re 123 years too late for the start of the Klondike Gold Rush!* Photo looks SW.

*I only climbed 20 feet to get to this rock, but it’s still the top of a mountain, and look at that view of the **Yukon River**!* Photo looks NNW.

**Yukon River**. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Let it snow up at the Arctic Circle! Conditions were so much better down here. Midnight Dome only served to inspire the desire for more action. Still time enough left for it today, too! After leaving Midnight Dome, the American Dingo didn’t dawdle in Dawson City. Instead, she went straight to the free ferry, took it across the Yukon River, and set off on the Top of the World Highway.

Heading for Alaska on the Top of the World Highway.

104 km (64 miles) to Alaska! Lupe saw Cassiar Dome (4,450 ft.) and went right by Swede Dome (4,150 ft.) on the way, both of which she had climbed on a rainy day only a year ago. Would have been fun to climb them again, but the Carolina Dog had unfinished dome business to take care of in Alaska, and today was the day to do it!

2 km from the border, the Top of the World Highway curved over a ridge where a large parking area was on the S side of the road. Last chance to get out and enjoy the Yukon before crossing into Alaska!

2 km from the Alaska border about to leave the fabulous Yukon Territory. Photo looks S.

US and Canadian customs were already in sight. Lupe crossed over to the N side of the Top of the World Highway, where a small hill with a huge cairn provided a great view of the border.

Still in the Yukon, but with Alaska in sight! Photo looks NW.

**US/Canadian customs** from the Yukon side of the border. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Crossing the border, Loop gained an hour. On Alaska time now!

8-18-19, 5:41 PM, 41 ºF, 1.5 miles into Alaska – Shortly after breezing through US customs, SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout on the N side of the Top of the World Highway. Out leapt the wily and ferocious were-puppy, totally excited about finally getting a chance to burn off excess energy! After the usual dastardly assault on SPHP, the were-puppy charged up Davis Dome (4,124 ft.).

The were-puppy threatens SPHP shortly after entering Alaska. **Davis Dome** in the background. Photo looks SW.

From the pullout, Davis Dome was just a big rounded hill. Only 275 feet of elevation gain, so no sweat. Yet when Lupe had been here last year, persistent cold rain and dense fog had prevented even an attempt. Not going to be denied this time! Before long the were-puppy reached the top of a spacious plateau. Near the the marginally higher N edge, a loosely constructed cairn marked what passed for the true summit.

At the top of **Davis Dome**. Note the survey benchmark near the base of the cairn straight below Lupe’s rear leg. Photo looks N.

Off to the N, an enormous expanse of lower hills and long ridges extended toward higher peaks visible near the horizon. On the S side of the cairn, a survey marker was attached to a flat rock. Disappointingly, it was not stamped “Walker” as shown on the topo map. However, a short distance to the E another marker with an arrow pointing toward the cairn was.

Survey benchmark at the base of the cairn.

The bronze mushroom near Looper’s front paws is actually the survey marker with the arrow. Photo looks WNW.

The summit plateau was elongated toward the SW. Close to the S edge stood a green thingamajig. Since a 20 mph N wind was making hanging out by the cairn near the N edge a chilly proposition, Lupe headed S to check out the thingamajig.

**Davis Dome summit plateau**. Photo looks SSW.

The thingamajig had a door partway up the E side, and was fastened to Davis Dome by guy wires. It didn’t look very aerodynamic, but maybe if Loop got inside and SPHP released the guy wires, the thingamajig would launch into space and take her to the Land of Oz?

Checking out the Davis Dome thingamajig. Photo looks SW.

The Carolina Dog wasn’t convinced. At any rate, she preferred Alaska to adventures in Oz, especially if SPHP wasn’t coming with. Instead of launching into space, she continued her exploration of the Davis Dome summit plateau, going clear to the SW end before exploring the W edge.

Near the **SW end of the summit plateau**. The cairn is just visible on the L. US and Canadian customs (R) are seen just L of the thingamajig (far R). Photo looks NE.

The views were similar. Unspoiled hills and ridges as far as the Dingo could see, but no dramatic peaks. Lupe returned briefly to the summit cairn before heading back to the G6. (6:22 PM)

The G6 waits down at the pullout next to the Top of the World Highway. US and Canadian Customs at the Alaska/Yukon border (Center). Photo looks NE.

US and Canadian Customs from Davis Dome with help from the telephoto lens.

Getting on toward evening, but Lupe still had time for one more dome! The Top of the World Highway was beautifully paved for 14 miles from the Canadian border to a junction with the Taylor Highway (Hwy No. 5) at Jack Wade where SPHP turned N (R).

Following the Taylor Highway 65 miles all the way to its end would have brought the Carolina Dog to the Yukon River again at Eagle, but after only 3 miles SPHP parked on a saddle at a large dirt lot on the SW (L) side of the road.

8-18-19, 6:58 PM, 38 ºF, Taylor Highway 3 miles N of Jack Wade – From here, the topo map showed some sort of a route going 0.5 mile NNE up Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.). Crossing the highway, Lupe searched for signs of a path up a slope thick with bushes and stunted trees. She soon discovered an old, deeply rutted jeep or ATV trail. No markings, but this had to be it.

**Steele Creek Dome** from the parking area along the Taylor Highway. Photo looks NE.

Starting up the badly eroded ATV trail. Photo looks NE.

Like Davis Dome, Steele Creek Dome was just another big rounded hill. However, with 500 feet of elevation gain required, climbing Steele Creek Dome would take nearly twice as much effort. The ATV trail made the trek an easy one, except for one spot where it headed straight into a bog. Following a side trail, Lupe circled around the L side of the boggy area, and was soon able to rejoin the main route higher.

About halfway up, the trees and even the bushes began to thin out. The top of the dome didn’t look an awful lot farther.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks NE.

Steele Creek Dome’s summit was a much smaller region than the big plateau at Davis Dome. Lupe arrived at the W end of a rounded ridge. She was close to a loose cairn of white rocks. At the opposite end of the short ridge, a much larger cairn sat on a little high point.

At the top of **Steele Creek Dome**. Photo looks ENE.

Midway between the two cairns was another high spot unadorned by anything except a cluster of small rocks. The cluster seemed about as high as where the big cairn was, so Lupe paused here, before continuing on to the big cairn.

At the cluster high point between the 2 cairns. Photo looks E.

**Steele Creek Dome**. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Seemed like Davis Dome ought to be visible off to the SE, but which hill was it? Hard to say. Maybe it really wasn’t in sight? SPHP was unable to make positive identification.

Big hills and ridges in all directions. 35 ºF. The N wind was only 15 mph now, but the chill breeze combined with the 360 degree panorama and sinking sun heightened a sense of loneliness and extreme remoteness. The Taylor Highway stretching off into the distance was the only sign of civilization. Even it appeared to be completely abandoned.

The Taylor Highway winds off toward Jack Wade junction. The G6 is parked down where the road appears to end toward the R. Photo looks SSW.

Another 62 miles from here to the end of the Taylor Highway at Eagle on the Yukon River. Lupe never went this way. Photo looks WNW.

Staring far to the SW, SPHP suddenly realized that Lupe had been to the highest peak faintly visible on the horizon. Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.), a favorite spot! The American Dingo had climbed it twice. Tomorrow Lupe would be going right by Mount Fairplay again. If the weather held, maybe she could make a 3rd ascent?

Something to look forward to. Mount Fairplay was awesome! Still just another big hill, but a really big one. Over 2,000 feet of elevation gain from the highway, and 3,000 feet of prominence.

**Mount Fairplay** (Center) from **Steele Creek Dome**. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Seemed like a long time since way back at the swollen Ogilvie River this morning. Getting late enough so that Lupe didn’t linger long on remote Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.).

Final moments on Steele Creek Dome. Photo looks NE.

*3 domes in one day! That’s pretty good, isn’t it?*

On the way down, SPHP became engaged in scarfing up luscious, ripe wild blueberries. The exasperated were-puppy reappeared. Twice! The were-puppy’s insistent threats finally persuaded SPHP to move along at a more lively pace. (End 8:02 PM)

8-18-19, 9:02 PM, 37 ºF, Taylor Highway SSW of Steele Creek Dome – The G6 was pointed NW. After a dinner of pink salmon and Alpo, a sleepy Carolina Dog munched happily on a rawhide stick. Outside, the sky was almost totally clear. Might be a cold night! So quiet here. Sunset in 20 or 30 minutes.

Perfectly positioned for it, but the sunset never really developed. A golden orb hovered briefly on the horizon, then slipped and was gone.

*So that’s it from Steele Creek Dome! We’re just getting started in Alaska, though. Hope you join me again for more Dingo Adventures real soon!*

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Doing Domes – The Top of the World Highway from Dawson City to the Alaska border, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-24-18)

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To the Arctic Circle! – Return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood (8-16-19 & 8-17-19)

Days 12 & 13 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-16-19, 6:02 AM, 36ºF, at the Mount Haldane trailhead – Chili bean! Chilly enough to fire the G6 up to get the heater going. Might as well drive a bit. Minutes after waking, Lupe was headed S on the Silver Trail.

Mostly cloudy, with darker stuff to the W. SPHP didn’t drive far, 15 km? After crossing the Minto Bridge over the Mayo River, SPHP pulled into the rest stop on the other side. Chili for breakfast. American Dingoes love chili! Lupe happily scarfed down her share. SPHP moved the G6 close to the river where she could watch a flotilla of ducks.

The sky darkened. Mist, then rain. Hah! The decision to climb Mount Haldane (6,023 ft.) yesterday had been a good one! A beautiful day hadn’t gone to waste. Apparently, if yesterday had been spent driving to get into position for a different peak this morning, Loopster would have gotten rained out anyway. As it was, after two big days of peakbagging in a row, a lazy day was in order. Let it rain all it wanted!

8-16-19, 3:36 PM, 57ºF, Silver Trail at the Minto Bridge rest area – Rain tapering off, and the trip journal caught up. About to get underway again!

8-16-19, 4:09 PM, 51ºF, Five Mile Lakes campground – No rain here! Still heavily overcast, though. Lupe got out for a look at the lake. Nice, but certainly nowhere near five miles long or across. The name must come from being five miles N of Mayo. Turned out that the picnic ground was at a separate location a short drive from the campground.

At the **Five Mile Lakes** campground beach.

The picnic ground was empty when Lupe arrived. The lake wasn’t far away, but wasn’t in view, either. No matter. SPHP heated up a can of clam chowder for supper. American Dingoes aren’t thrilled with clam chowder. Loopster sniffed around the edges of the boreal forest and found a squirrel to bark at instead.

8-16-19, 7:42 PM, Gravel Lake – Lupe’s 2019 Silver Trail adventures were behind her now. Along the N Klondike Highway, a short stop was made for a look at Gravel Lake. Big, round, and probably shallow, Gravel Lake appeared to be merely an over-sized pond.

However, a plaque about lodgepole pines contained amazing information. These days Gravel Lake is about as far N as lodgepole pines are found in the Yukon, but 1,000,000 years ago they grew as far N as Old Crow. The virtually unbelievable part was that lodgepole pine seeds can remain dormant for 10,000 years before sprouting!

8-16-19, 8:31 PM, 55 ºF, at the start of the Dempster Highway – At the S end of the Dempster Highway, SPHP fueled the G6 up at the automated gas station. No quibbling about price, even if one wanted to. Not a good place to get stingy, anyway. Last chance for gas between here and Eagle Plains – 369 unpaved km away!

In 2018, Lupe had traveled the entire 737 km Dempster Highway all the way to Inuvik in the Northwest Territories. She had even pressed on taking the new all-season road (Hwy 10) to Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic Ocean, 845 km from here! Whether the Carolina Dog would get that far on this Dingo Vacation or not wasn’t decided yet. Adventures were in the works as far as the Richardson Mountains N of the Arctic Circle. Beyond that, the crystal ball was hazy.

At any rate, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way back to the true Arctic! To commemorate the occasion, she stopped by the big Dempster Highway sign before heading N.

The Dempster Highway starts at this junction with the North Klondike Highway 496 km/308 miles N of Whitehorse.

8-16-19, 9:39 PM, 50 ºF near Dempster Highway km 26 – Now that it was about over, Loopster saw the first hint of blue sky she’d seen all day. For a moment sunshine was on a hillside! Encouraging, although the sun never appeared. The Ogilvie Mountains were coming into view ahead! SPHP found a spot to park, so Lupe could get out for a look.

A chance to stretch after being cooped up in the G6 most of the day.

Approaching the **Ogilvie Mountains**. Photo looks N.

Far enough! Still light out, but time to call it a day. With a little luck, the Ogilvie Mountains would be out of the clouds tomorrow. Although she’d snoozed for hours in the G6, Lupe went right back to preparing for Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.) in the morning.

*Shhhh! Peakbagging preparations underway!*

Not long after dark, though, the mist returned. Then rain. Not good.

8-17-19, 6:50 AM, 36 ºF – What’s this? A clear blue sky! Awesome! Full of optimism the American Dingo hit the road N. Soon she reached the S boundary of Tombstone Territorial Park. Sunlight was visible on the peaks of the Ogilvie Mountains, yet the sky was much hazier than just a short while ago. Trees were swaying in a lively breeze.

About to enter Tombstone Territorial Park. **Ogilvie Mountains** in view. Photo looks N.

8-17-19, 8:14 AM, 32 ºF, km 71.5 of the Dempster Highway at the Tombstone Interpretive Centre – What a change! Cold, windy, with new snow on the mountains. Mount Chester Henderson lost in the clouds. The interpretive center didn’t open until 9:00 AM. A weather forecast posted outside showed sunny with highs of 12 ºC and lows of 0 ºC the next several days, but that was for Dawson City, not here.

No local forecast, but there was one for where Lupe was ultimately heading – km 450 of the Dempster Highway. That had to be Wright Pass in the Richardson Mountains on the border of the Northwest Territories, or close to it! Unsurprisingly, the Wright Pass forecast wasn’t as good as Dawson City’s – highs of 3 or 4 ºC with lows of -3 to 1 ºC today and the next 3 days. Most days cloudy with periods of rain or snow.

So what did you find out, SPHP?

Mainly that we should wait for the interpretive center to open, Loop. The forecast for Dawson City, which isn’t too far away, is decent, but that’s way down by the Yukon River. Maybe the rangers can tell us a little more about what to expect up here?

New snow in the mountains across the Dempster Highway from the Tombstone Interpretive Centre parking lot. Photo looks E.

Breakfast was lukewarm. The cold wind made it nearly impossible to heat anything up. SPHP returned to the interpretive centre shortly after it opened. A surprisingly busy place, but that was due to the weather. Everyone was cancelling hikes and backpacking trips, and wondering what else there was to do?

A local forecast? Nothing official, but the ranger SPHP talked to said to expect little change. Overcast, high temps near freezing, and a 60% chance of rain or snow every day for the next 3 days. Improving after that. They did have a new extended forecast for Wright Pass, which was at least somewhat encouraging.

What’s the verdict, SPHP?

What we see is going to stick around awhile, Loop.

Mount Chester Henderson isn’t happening then, is it?

Nope, don’t even want to leave the G6 in this frigid wind. No point in it, anyway, with the mountain up in the clouds. Same situation for anything else we might consider around here.

So what now?

I’m pondering that, Looper. Seems we’ve simply hit it wrong. Our timing is off. The safe bet is to just chalk it up to bad luck and head for Alaska. Somewhere skies are blue!

We’ve come such a long way, though, SPHP! Are we really going to give up on everything we were going to do along the Dempster Highway just like that? Aren’t there any other options?

Yeah, we could just sit here or go to Dawson City waiting for the weather to improve, but that’s not in the cards for at least 4 more days. Even then, no guarantees. Only one other thing I can think of, but it’s a gamble. We could keep heading N. Things aren’t any better in the Richardsons, but if we can make it over Wright Pass, we could probably go all the way back to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk!

Oh, the Arctic Ocean would be grand! And that would chew up a few days, SPHP! Maybe it would warm up by the time we headed S again? We might still get a shot at climbing a mountain or two in the Richardson Range!

Exactly, Loopster! The extended forecast does show improvement at Wright Pass on the 21st – sunny and 9 ºC. Cloudy with showers the next day, but then mostly sunny and 11 ºC on the 23rd.

And even if none of that works out, remember Greg and Svetlana from Mount Lorne? They invited us to go to Grizzly Lake with them on the 23rd here in Tombstone Territorial Park. Maybe that would work?

Certainly a possibility. So what do you want to do, Loop?

Well, as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I feel some responsibility to make an effort to return to the true arctic. Can we just keep going N and see how things turn out? Not many Dingoes have ever been to the Arctic Ocean twice!

You can say that again! Darn few have been there even once! Actually, if we get there, you will have almost made it to the Arctic Ocean 3 times. Remember Deadhorse, Alaska? Since they didn’t allow Dingoes, I had to take the Arctic Ocean tour as your personal representative, but you were within only a few miles of the Arctic Ocean then, too. Alrighty, then. I sort of feel the same way you do. Shall we gamble?

Onward, SPHP!

Cold and windy out, but road conditions were fine. Even beneath leaden skies, the scenery was spectacular! No rush on such a day. The G6 made many stops at favorite points. The first was at the famous viewpoint overlooking the North Klondike River valley only a couple of km beyond the interpretive centre. On a clear day, Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) could be seen at the far end.

This wasn’t a clear day.

**N Klondike River valley**, Tombstone Territorial Park. Photo looks SW.

A closer look with help from the telephoto lens.

The Carolina Dog went past Goldensides, over North Fork Pass, and saw the lower slopes of Angelcomb Peak.

Approaching **North Fork Pass**. Photo looks NNE.

**Upper E Blackstone River valley** from **North Fork Pass.** Photo looks WSW.

**North Fork Pass** looking down the **E Blackstone River valley**. Photo looks NW.

**E Blackstone River valley**. Photo looks W.

8-17-19, 11:39 AM, 30 ºF, Dempster Hwy km 95 (Bubbly Pond) – A longer stop was made at the Bubbly Pond pullout, the lower portion of a two-tier parking area on the E side of the Dempster Highway. Even colder here, but low enough to be protected from the wind, so it didn’t seem bad at all.

Lupe got a chance to sniff through the bushes, play with a stick, and show off how fast she could run! Naturally she visited the bubbly pond, too. Before hitting the Dempster Highway again, she topped it all off with a leisurely counter-clockwise sniff clear around the perimeter of the big parking area.

The bubbly pond parking area, km 95 of the Dempster Highway. Photo looks WNW.

Surfbird Mountain (km 98) was low enough to be out of the clouds and had only a skiff of snow. Farther on, Loopster made stops at the E Blackstone River rest area (km 107) E of Peak 5262 and Chapman Lake.

The **E Blackstone River** was running high. Photo looks NE.

**Chapman Lake** just N of Tombstone Territorial Park. Photo looks N.

The Carolina Dog barked at wild horses in the E Blackstone River, but they were too far away to even look up.

Wild horses in the **E Blackstone River valley**. Photo looks E with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Despite the endless gloomy sky, optimism grew. All was well! The G6 rolled on. So much fun to see these incredible places again! Lupe had been this far N on the Dempster Highway only once, but that had been just a year ago. Memory was still fresh. Suddenly being here again felt fantastic! If only the weather would turn, fabulous adventures awaited!

A quick stop at Windy Pass (km 152) recalled the tremendous day Lupe had climbing Windy Pass Peak, Distincta Peak, and Peak 5906 last year. The Carolina Dog also got a chance to stretch her legs at scenic Engineer Creek (km 168 & 172) and the bridge over the Ogilvie River.

Back at **Windy Pass**. **Windy Pass Peak** (L). Photo looks S.

**Engineer Creek**, km 168 of the Dempster Highway. Photo looks SE.

**Engineer Creek**, km 172. Photo looks S.

Dempster Highway and **Engineer Creek**, km 172. Photo looks NNE.

Bridge at the **confluence of Engineer Creek and the Ogilvie River**. Photo looks SE.

Same bridge with **Sapper Hill (3,150 ft.)** (Center) in the background. Photo looks E.

Shortly after passing Churchward Hill (km 225), the situation began to change. A light rain set in. No problem, at first, but Seven Mile Hill where the Dempster Highway climbs out of the Ogilvie River valley wasn’t much farther, and proved to be muddy and slick. Low traction caused the G6 to struggle and slip. No guardrails. A tad unnerving!

Snow was in the air by the time Lupe reached the Ogilvie Ridge rest area (km 259) at the top of Seven Mile Hill. Not sticking much … yet.

The situation was deteriorating by the time Lupe reached **Ogilvie Ridge**. Normally a great view of the Ogilvie River valley from here. Not today.

I don’t know, Looper. We better talk about this.

Thinking about turning around, SPHP? We got up Seven Mile Hill alright.

Yeah, we were doing great, but now it appears we’re heading into weather. Hasn’t been a speck of blue sky all day. Rain is one thing, but the snow scares me. We’ve got 5/8 of a full tank. If we go much farther, we won’t have any choice, but to continue on to the Eagle Plains hotel where the next fuel is. If we wait too long to turn around, we won’t have enough fuel to get back. The G6 isn’t any good in snow. If conditions worsen, we might easily end up stranded.

How much farther to the Eagle Plains hotel?

Still 110 km to go. Will take hours bumping along at a snail’s pace.

Can we stay at the hotel, if we get there, SPHP?

Sure, if they’re got room.

Well, we can go a little farther, can’t we? If it starts snowing harder, we’ll turn around having given it our best shot! If things improve or stay about the same, we can head for the hotel. How’s that?

A little dicey, but makes some sense. At least there aren’t any more hills as big as Seven Mile Hill before we get to the Eagle Plains hotel. OK, we’ll go a bit farther and see what happens.

8-17-19, 4:05 PM, 35 ºF crossing the Eagle Plains – No turning back now! Not enough fuel. A mix of snow and rain all the way since leaving Ogilvie Ridge. Fortunately, still warm enough so nothing was sticking. The Dempster Highway was a rough, pot holey, sloppy mess, but firm. The G6 crept along, jolting and splooshing through the puddles.

Despite how slowly SPHP was driving, no vehicle going N passed the G6. Scarcely any traffic at all. Occasionally a vehicle heading S appeared. Lupe actually had a few peakbagging objectives along in here, minor hills that should have been easy climbs, but SPHP couldn’t even find them in this weather. Not leaving the highway in this cold, foggy soup, anyway. No way!

8-17-19, 5:38 PM, 33 ºF, Eagle Plains hotel – Nothing dramatic happened. Just a dreary, damp, marginally above freezing day. The G6 made it! At Eagle Plains fuel was $1.70 CAN per liter, roughly $4.95 US per gallon. A bargain. Fill ‘er up! Confidence restored.

A hopeful Dingo looks forward to a pleasant evening at the **Eagle Plains Hotel** *(km 369)*.

Any rooms available? Yes! $160 CAN per night, tax included. Sounds good! Only one person? Yep, and a Dingo. Sorry, no pets. We have 2 pet friendly rooms, but both are taken.

No soft warm bed. No spacious room. Lupe was crushed.

A check of the latest weather forecast on display in the hotel wasn’t as good as the one back at the Tombstone Interpretive Center. One day of sunshine ahead 4 days from now with a high of 6 ºC. The next day 8 ºC, but cloudy. Then a 10 ºC day, but rainy. Until then 3 more days of gloom with rain, snow, and temperatures within plus or minus a few degrees of freezing.

Only one thing to do.

8-17-19, 7:03 PM, 33 ºF, windy, leaving the Eagle Plains hotel – 36 km to go. Barely raining now, so the road was a bit drier. After crossing the Eagle River, the G6 had an easier time climbing the steep hill out of the valley than last year. Kms clicked away. The lower, snow-covered slopes of the Richardson Mountains came into view.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was coming!

Approaching the **Richardson Mountains**.

8-17-19, 8:18 PM, 33 ºF, breezy at the Arctic Circle (km 405) –

Congratulations, Loopster! You’ve made it back to the true arctic for the 4th year running!

Thank you, SPHP! The mountains are all snowy!

Yeah, and the forecast is lousy. Not going to stand much chance of getting any peakbagging done in the Richardsons. Maybe Peak 3850 just S of Wright Pass on the way back from the Arctic Ocean? That’s about it.

We’re going on to Tuktoyaktuk?

All depends on if we can make it over Wright Pass tomorrow. If we can, I think you’ll be seeing the Land of the Pingos again. Still a long way, but we’ve already come so far. Why not go for it?

The American Dingo was more than willing.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returns to the true arctic!

At the **Arctic Circle** 4 or 5 miles from the **Richardson Mountains**. Photo looks NE.

**Richardson Mountains** with help from the telephoto lens.

Same view with help from the telephoto lens.

The plan was to stay at the huge pullout at the Arctic Circle rest area for the night. Lupe hadn’t been here too long, though, before it began to snow lightly.

8-17-19, 9:50 PM, 32 ºF, at the Arctic Circle – A few vehicles had come out of the N. SPHP had been chatting with several people who stopped. Two women had just come from Inuvik. They’d made it over Wright Pass, but the road was treacherously muddy and slick coming up from Rock Creek. A man made it over the pass, too, but had picked up a nail in a tire. Had to stop every 20 km to air it up with a compressor. He agreed that Rock Creek was a mess.

A friendly family in a motorhome were the only ones still heading N. Still optimistic, they encouraged Lupe before continuing on their way.

The last tail lights disappeared. Twilight fading. Alone at the Arctic Circle! A year ago, it had rained incessantly all night here. Fortunately, it had been just warm enough. A degree or two colder, and there would have been feet, not inches, of snow. No telling how long the G6 might have been stranded. Hadn’t happened, though. The next morning Lupe had pressed on, eventually getting all the way to the Arctic Ocean.

Outside the G6, the snowflakes racing by in the wind were now huge. The ground was white. An inch already. Snowing hard and sticking! Almost no visibility. Close to blizzard conditions. If this kept up …

At the **Arctic Circle**, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-17-19

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The Dempster Highway Travelogue

Peak 5262, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-22-18)

Day 19 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-21-18, 10:44 PM, 32°F – Wind and cold rain continued, as Lupe and SPHP left Eagle Plains ahead of the expected blizzard. Within the first 10 minutes, two vehicles came the opposite direction, still heading N on the Dempster Highway, on the verge of reaching the safety of Eagle Plains. After that, there was no traffic at all. For more than half an hour, the G6 splashed on through countless puddles as the rain came down. Outside, the temperature never varied. Always 32°F.11:30 PM, 32°F – The dreaded blizzard had arrived! Snowing hard, but not sticking to the road yet. The blowing snow was difficult to stare into, a confusing, ever-changing, pattern of bright white streaks in the headlights against a black as deep as any stormy night anywhere.

Soon snow was clinging to bushes along the highway. Accumulations of slush started heaping up along the shoulders. Great sprays of water sent up from potholes sometimes inundated the windshield, momentarily blocking all view of the road before the wipers swept the water away.

Slush spread across the entire road, then turned white. On all the uphill sections, of which there were many, the traction control warning light started coming on, although the G6 didn’t seem to be slipping too badly yet. Only a matter of time, though, if the storm continued to rage.

Meanwhile, the G6 plowed along at a fairly steady 25 to 30 mph. The highway wound up, down, and all around one unseen hill after another. Fuel economy plunged as the G6 battled increasing accumulations of snow and slush. Maintaining speed on the uphill runs started to become difficult.

Afraid of how soft the shoulders must be, SPHP drove down the middle of the road. Virtually nothing could be seen alongside the highway now. As the snow deepened, SPHP started having a hard time telling where the road even was. Reflective km markers showed up well, but far too infrequently to be of assistance.

Sooner or later, the G6 wasn’t going to make it up one of these hills. The prospect of getting stuck in the the blinding snowstorm in the middle of the Dempster Highway in the dead of the night was terrifying. However, SPHP saw no pullouts where it would be possible to safely get off the road. Leaving the highway wouldn’t be all that wonderful, either. No doubt, it would mean being hopelessly snowed-in within no time.

The situation was becoming dire. Should have stayed at Eagle Plains! Days ago on the way N, Lupe had stopped at a huge pullout at Ogilvie Ridge. If the G6 could make it that far, Ogilvie Ridge would at least be a safe place to get off the highway. In this blizzard, though, SPHP wasn’t sure it would even be possible to recognize the pullout.

Suddenly, there was movement! A dimly perceived patchwork of light and dark was moving in the same direction as the G6 on the L side of the road. SPHP caught only a glimpse of it, as the G6 went by. A huge ghost of a moose! The American Dingo hadn’t seen a thing. For miles she had been trying to snooze as the G6 bumped, slipped, and lurched along.

8-22-18, 1:30 AM – Doomed! Heavy snow. Blizzard conditions. A wild wind was whipping the fast accumulating snow into drifts forming on the road. Huge snowflakes were a blinding white. Everything else was pitch black. Navigation was by long poles with reflectors on them that had fortuitously appeared on the L side of the nearly invisible highway a short time ago.

Would have been stuck already, if it hadn’t been for one thing. There didn’t seem to be any more uphill sections. For what couldn’t be much longer, the G6 was still moving. Inside, the Carolina Dog was snoozing peacefully, blissfully unaware of the storm.

1:50 AM – 70 to 75 miles S of Eagle Plains, SPHP caught a glimpse of a pullout on the L. Passed right on by it before even realizing what it was. That might have been Ogilvie Ridge! The road began dropping steadily, even steeply. Yeah, that confirmed it! This was Seven Mile hill!

No going back now, but maybe it didn’t matter? As the G6 lost elevation, conditions were rapidly improving.

2:00 AM – Luck of the Dingo! Amazing! Drove out of it! Heavy snow was now only a moderate rain. 34°F! Down in the Ogilvie River valley, the Dempster Highway was sloppy wet, but snow-free. The G6 bounced along through potholes sending up sprays of water as before. Passed a rest area at Davies Creek, but didn’t stop. Windy Pass and North Fork Pass are still ahead.

The rain tapered off before reaching the bridge over the Ogilvie River, but soon after crossing it, the snow started in again on the long approach to Windy Pass. The adrenaline rush of the white-knuckle drive prior to Ogilvie Ridge was fading. The weather this far S was no where near as bad as it had been earlier. Not snowing that hard. Starting to seem like things are actually under control.

2:56 AM – A huge, level, snow-free pullout had appeared on the R. Likely a road maintenance area. Whatever. Hadn’t made it to Windy Pass yet, but SPHP was weary. The crisis seemed to be over. Time to join Lupe in Dingo Dreamland!

9:36 AM, 32°F – A certain well-rested Dingo wanted out. Fine, fine! SPHP let her go. Blizzard? What blizzard? No snow here! Sure enough, Lupe was at a highway maintenance area somewhere close to km 171 on the W side of the Dempster Highway. Any snow that had fallen here last night had all melted as it hit.

Still no telling what Lupe might find up at Windy Pass, though. Might be tons of snow up there? Couldn’t see a thing down here, except the usual fog and mist of the far N.

Had the blizzard been only a bad dream? Despite all the snow she’d seen before falling asleep, Lupe woke up to a snow-free world at a road maintenance area near km 171 of the Dempster Highway.

Another day, another foggy start. Seems like that happens a lot in the Yukon. Of course, the way things had been going last night, it could have been worse. Much worse!

10:01 AM, Windy Pass, km 152.8 – The crisis actually was over. Lupe had been less than 20 km from Windy Pass. She arrived to find more fog and mist, but no snow, even up here. The big ridges S of the pass leading to Windy Pass Peak (5,249 ft.) and Peak 5906 were a little white, but that was it.

Maybe a blizzard was still raging up at Eagle Plains and the Arctic Circle, but the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had managed a successful escape!

Back at Windy Pass where Lupe had enjoyed such a great day on her exploration of Windy Pass Peak, Distincta Peak & Peak 5906 on the way N. The peaks were all hidden by fog this morning, but there was almost no snow. Photo looks S.

Lupe resumed her snooze at Windy Pass, while SPHP straightened up the G6, cleaned windows, and dealt with a few technical issues. Then the journey S continued. What to do next wasn’t entirely clear. The mist ended, and fog was decreasing as the cloud cover began to lift, but the mountain peaks were still hidden.

Heading up the **Blackstone River valley** SE of Windy Pass. Photo looks SW.

1:36 PM, 40°F – Lupe and SPHP stopped at the two-tier pullout on the E side of the Dempster Highway SE of Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.). This was a favorite spot, discovered in 2017, where there was a stream and a bubbling pond.

Lunch time! Chili and chocolate coconut bars were on the menu. The American Dingo kindly helped out with both, displaying considerable enthusiasm for the project. Afterwards, she explored among the bushes, and chased tennis balls SPHP threw for her.

SPHP pondered the situation. Should Loop go on to Dawson City? She still had more mountains to climb here in Tombstone Territorial Park, but as is so often the case, once again most of the Ogilvie Range was in the clouds. Surfbird Mountain wasn’t, but Lupe had climbed Surfbird last year.

Maybe it made sense to give Peak 5262 another shot? Stymied by bogs when Lupe had tried it on the way N nearly a week ago, she hadn’t even made it to the base of the mountain. However, it had looked like she might have been successful, if only SPHP had led her to the next ridge N instead of the way she’d actually gone.

Peak 5262 was back N, but only a dozen km. The mountain sat isolated out beyond the rest of the Ogilvie Range. The sky was looking better in that direction. If Peak 5262 worked out today, conditions might improve enough so Lupe could climb higher peaks around here tomorrow?

3:09 PM, 39°F, Blackstone River rest stop at km 107.6 – Yeah, coming back for another attempt on Peak 5262 made sense. It was too late in the day, and the weather wasn’t cooperative enough, to doing anything else. The only other option would have been to keep driving, and the Carolina Dog was sick of being cooped up in the G6. SPHP parked at the now familiar rest stop along the East Blackstone River.

The weather was improving as Lupe set out for a second attempt on Peak 5262. This time, SPHP had her go N along the Dempster Highway far enough to get past all the streams preventing access to the second ridge W of the road.

W of the Dempster Highway starting for **Peak 5262**. Photo looks W.

Even though the second ridge was a bit higher than the first one, it still wasn’t very high. Lupe was soon up on top. From her prior experience with the first ridge, she knew what to expect next. A long, beautiful, but far more wearying march toward Peak 5262 than a nearly imperceptible slope merited.

The top of the ridge was a vast plain of spongy, tussocky tundra. On the way W, Lupe sought out minor highs points which might provide firmer footing. She came to one drainage that forced her to make a detour to the N. Although the top of the ridge looked flat as a pancake, it was anything but. Endless, unstable tussocks surrounded by holes made every step an adventure.

The American Dingo persevered, though, making steady progress. Blue sky was beginning to appear! This was turning into a fantastic day! Having seen the lay of the land once before, SPHP was buoyed by hope that Lupe would enjoy success this time around.

*Maybe we’re going to make it this time? Looking good so far!* Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

The critical point of the journey came as Lupe drew near the W end of the ridge. Once she had made it far enough to see the broad saddle area between this low ridge and the base of Peak 5262, it became clear that she needed to go NW staying up on the high ground along the edge as long as possible before dropping down to the saddle.

*Getting close to the W end of this ridge now.* Photo looks W.

Close to the far NW end of the low ridge. The plan is to head for Peak 5262’s long NE ridge seen beyond Lupe. Photo looks WNW.

A pond near the W end of the ridge Lupe has been traveling. Photo looks SW.

Upon dropping down to the saddle, Lupe discovered small streams and bogs no matter which way she went. SPHP tussock-hopped past the first bog and small stream, while Lupe simply waded through.

However, getting through all the bogs wasn’t as easy as it seemed. Even after crossing the broad saddle, Lupe kept coming to more drainages and bogs as the terrain started sloping up again toward the base of Peak 5262. Luckily, none proved to be insurmountable obstacles.

Peak 5262 was just a big hill! Surely the American Dingo was going to make it now! As Looper worked her way up an increasingly steep slope toward Peak 5262’s NE ridge, confidence soared.

On the tundra, beyond the worst of the wetlands. Photo looks NE.

Looking E back in the direction Lupe had come from. The high point at the NW end of the first ridge she had been on is the minor rise (Center) just beyond the foreground.

The NE ridge was still quite a march away. Lupe kept having to dodge bogs, drainages, and unexpected holes full of water. The tundra dried out to a degree as the climb steepened, but remained spongy, requiring significant effort.

The beautiful tundra, already sporting fall colors.

Lupe climbed and climbed. Though the terrain wasn’t all that steep, it was exhausting work. SPHP kept hoping the tundra would give way to rockier ground, but for a very long way it didn’t. The Carolina Dog came to a number of high points, but each time hopes that she had reached the NE ridgeline were dashed.

Finally, lanes of firmer ground did appear. These lanes had a base of very small rocks, the first rocks Lupe had come to on the entire journey thus far. Low red and gray-green vegetation grew on the rockier terrain, looking just like what Loop had seen a year ago in Alaska when she’d gone on her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll.

The narrow lanes of firmer ground helped tremendously. SPHP was able to quicken the pace significantly. Soon Lupe really was up on the NE ridgeline.

SPHP had expected plenty of rockier terrain up on the NE ridgeline, but that wasn’t what Lupe found. In fact, the ridgeline wasn’t much of a line at all. Ahead was a very broad and steeper slope, comprised almost entirely of more deep, spongy tundra.

Peak 5262 had a lovely dusting of snow on top. The colors of the tundra below were absolutely gorgeous. However, it was now clear that Lupe wasn’t going to reach any significantly firmer ground until she got way up on Peak 5262’s steepest slopes near the summit.

Having anticipated an easier time on a rocky ridgeline, the trudge higher actually began as a tougher march than before.

Looking back down the NE ridge. **Chapman Lake** is on the L. Photo looks NE.

No turning back now, though! Onward!

Up ahead, a long line of bushes grew along a drainage. Lupe stayed to the R (NW) of it. However, this drainage split into two separate courses higher up. Lupe had to cross the smaller channel to the W. Happily, the smaller channel turned out to be dry, and not a problem. From then on, there were no real obstacles. Lupe angled SW toward a high, short ridge to the W, and upon reaching it, completed her ascent by switchbacking up the N face of the mountain.

Even the upper slopes of Peak 5262 turned out not to be rocky, but at least the tundra wasn’t as thick. Peak 5262 had another surprise in store for Lupe, too. The dusting of snow near the top of the mountain wasn’t snow at all. Apparently last night’s blizzard had been an ice storm here. Freezing rain had coated the tundra with an amazing display of ice.

Where Lupe first reached the ice-encrusted tundra, the ice was melting. Higher up that wasn’t the case.

About to start up the N face of Peak 5262. Lupe is already quite high on the mountain. Photo looks SSW.

An icy display. Far more magnificent specimens were higher up.

Looking down on the **Blackstone River valley**. **Chapman Lake** on the R. Photo looks NNE.

Getting there! Last push to the top is dead ahead. Photo looks SW.

The top of Peak 5262 is rounded. Lupe arrived upon a summit area acres in size. The true summit was W of where the Carolina Dog came up, and was quite easy to spot. Not far from the N edge sat a short ridge resembling a marvelously bejeweled mini-pingo. This little summit ridge was only a few feet higher than the rest of the mountain.

The terrain begins leveling out as Lupe reaches a vast summit region. Photo looks W.

The true summit (Center) comes into view. Photo looks W.

Lupe reaches the wonderfully ice-encrusted **true summit of Peak 5262**. Photo looks S.

At the beautifully decorated true summit. Photo looks W.

When Lupe had first reached the NE ridge, large regions of blue sky had been expanding to the N. For a short while the Carolina Dog had been in sunshine. Now, though, the weather was clearly deteriorating. Couldn’t have been any more than 32°F. The incredible crystalline icy display was not melting up here. The slight N breeze felt cold.

Views from isolated, remote Peak 5262 were tremendous! Higher peaks were in the distance in many directions, but their summits were lost in clouds that already covered the whole sky. Fog was spreading to the S, although Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.) was still in sight.

To celebrate Loopster’s peakbagging success, SPHP shared 3 chocolate coconut bars with her. They were frozen so stiffly that it was hard to break off chunks.

High atop Peak 5262, the darkening sky, cold breeze, and surrounding vast, desolate solitude produced a sudden sense of gloom and danger. It was absolutely incredible up here, yet SPHP grew uneasy. Lupe was a long way from the G6. Mountains were disappearing from the horizon. The cloud cover seemed to be closing in. If the morning’s fog returned, it would be easy to get lost.

Would have been fun to have the luxury of letting a sublime hour or two go by up on Peak 5262, but it didn’t seem like Lupe could afford to linger up here too long. Might as well have a quick look around, though. Loop ventured out to the far W end of the summit area. The Blackstone River was in view, even if the mountains weren’t.

The **Blackstone River** from the W edge of Peak 5262. Photo looks SW.

Looking SW up the **Blackstone River valley** with help from the telephoto lens.

View to the W with help from the telephoto lens.

The top of **Peak 5262** from the W edge. The true summit is the little rise seen directly beyond Lupe. Photo looks E.

The scenes were all impressively forlorn and desolate, but the clouds weren’t an awful lot higher than Peak 5262 now. Lupe returned to the true summit for another brief stay and final look around.

Near the true summit (L) again. Photo looks SE.

Gorgeous now, but it wouldn’t have been much fun to have been up here last night!

The **Blackstone River valley** from the N edge of Peak 5262. Photo looks NNW.

**Chapman Lake** (Center). Photo looks NE.

On the return, Lupe varied the first part of her route. Instead of going back down the steep N face, she followed the E ridge, which provided a more gradual descent.

Starting down, but still along the N edge. Lupe had originally come up the rather steep slope beyond her from the L. **Chapman Lake** is on the L. **Lomond Lake** is far away on the R. Photo looks NE.

Lupe began her descent going down the E ridge (R). Photo looks E.

**Lomond Lake** (Center) in the distance. The flat ridge Lupe had started out on is the slightly higher ground just L of the ponds on the R. Photo looks ENE.

On the E ridge. The G6 is parked down by the river just about straight beyond Lupe. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.

As soon as the American Dingo realized that she was actually on her way down, she became quite energized. Lupe ran and ran! She sniffed and explored, displaying great stamina and enthusiasm. The descent was a lot easier. SPHP made much faster progress. The spongy tundra merely served as a cushion, instead of an impediment. From above, SPHP was better at picking out drier, more efficient routes.

The E ridge soon curved NE creating a bowl to the W. This bowl was the origin of the last two drainages Lupe had come to on the way up. To get back to the lower portion of the NE ridge, SPHP led Loop down into the bowl so she could stay far enough W to bypass the deeper drainage. By the time Lupe made it to the lower end of the bowl, she had picked up her former route.

The long march still ahead was merely a retracement of what had been done before. Lupe eventually turned ESE, leaving the NE ridgeline. As the slope decreased, the labor of traveling the tussocky tundra returned. Back to dodging bogs, streams, and wet holes.

Despite the effort required, the return was a beautiful time. Lupe was happy, roaming free in an unspoiled world. SPHP was thrilled she had finally made it to Peak 5262! The sky remained overcast, but it wasn’t nearly so cold out as it had been back up on the mountain. The brooding clouds never came down far enough to threaten the lowlands with fog.

Though always challenging to move through, the tundra was amazing. Pristine beauty in all directions, including at one’s paws or feet. Lupe discovered a pink blossom so rare no others like it had been seen on the whole long journey. She found an ancient caribou antler, and learned that even excellent dental health isn’t everything.

One in a zillion! A rare pink blossom like no other Lupe had seen on the entire journey.

Dental health is important, but it isn’t everything. Someone died with perfect teeth!

The morning’s mist and fog hadn’t held much promise, but Lupe’s ascent of lonely Peak 5262 had been a marvelous journey and sweet success! (9:38 PM, 33°F)