2023 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Into the Arctic Apocalypse! – To Eagle Plains, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-6-23 to 8-8-23)

Days 15, 16 & Part 1 of Day 17 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-6-23, 6:03 AM, 62ºF, Steese Highway at the Twelvemile Summit Wayside, Alaska – Lupe was already awake, panting on her pink blanket.

About time you woke up, SPHP. Can you please open the RAV4’s windows and let some air in here? I’m roasting!

Sorry, Miss Hot-Blooded. Seemed like a mighty comfortable night to me. Yes, I’ll open the windows as soon as we get going. The mosquitoes are bad, which is why they’re closed in the first place.

So, where are we going today, anyway, SPHP?

Fairbanks first. We can get some weather forecasts there, and maybe find out if there’s anywhere we can escape this endless smoke.

8-6-23, 1:15 PM, 76ºF, Fairbanks, Alaska –

Any decision yet, SPHP? You’ve been dithering for hours! It’s hot in here even with the windows open when we’re not moving.

I know it, but the situation is just incredible, Loopster! Who would have thought that we would run into the worst air quality in North America this far N? Rain expected almost every day in SW Alaska, which doesn’t do us any good, and hot and smoky almost everywhere else, even up in the Brooks Range for the next few days. Heavy rains incoming after that.

There must be someplace where it isn’t raining or on fire, SPHP.

Yes, way down by Whitehorse and Haines Junction in the Yukon, the air quality and weather are both lovely. Would be wonderful, if we were on our way back home, Looper, but we’re not.

Well, what about the Dempster Highway, SPHP? Are things any better there yet?

The air quality map says it’s still smoky all the way from Dawson City to Tuktoyaktuk, Loop. An apocalypse all the way to the Arctic Ocean! It’s unbelievable! Always dreamed of having some decent weather so we could climb a few peaks in the Richardson Range. Yet now that it’s finally warm and dry in that territory instead of the usual freezing rain and snow we’ve encountered there before, the boreal forests and tundra are on fire, and the smoke is terrible.

So, what are we going to do then, SPHP? Just sit here wasting time?

No, right or wrong, I’ll make up my mind one way or another shortly, Loopster. Promise!

SPHP did decide, but before even getting out of Fairbanks turned the RAV4 around, reversing the decision.

No Brooks Range, SPHP?

Love the Brooks Range! You know that, Loop, but we were there last year. This was supposed to be the year the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returned to Tuktoyaktuk. I guess we may as well try it. After all, how many warm, dry years are we going to have a shot at in the Richardson Mountains? This might be our only chance to do much of anything there. Maybe we’ll get lucky, and the smoke won’t be that bad by the time we get there?

I’ve never been to an Arctic apocalypse before, SPHP. Maybe it will be fun?

Count your blessings, Loopster. Apocalypses usually don’t have that much to commend them, but we’ll see.

8-6-23, 2:42 PM, Alaska Highway, halfway to Delta Junction – The smoke thickened, the sky turned an eerie orange, and it got noticeably darker.

What’s happening, SPHP? Have we reached the apocalypse already?

I don’t know. Seems that way, doesn’t it, Looper?

Suddenly, the smoke was no longer down on the highway, but looming menacingly overhead. A few miles farther, SPHP stopped at a pullout along the Tanana River. Lupe leapt out of the RAV4 for a look. Beyond the river, an enormous plume of smoke was rising from unseen fires off to the NW.

The apocalypse from along the **Tanana River**. Photo looks NW.

Hah! Look at that, Loop! Appears we’re already leaving the apocalypse behind us.

Oh, I hope so, SPHP! Didn’t think it would be this easy.

Air quality was greatly improved on the way to Tok, and remained the best it had been since way back at Telkwa Microwave Mountain in British Columbia after turning onto the Taylor Highway. A bit of haze, but Mount Fairplay was easily visible from a great distance against a blue sky when Lupe reached a pullout on a high ridge with a view.

**Mount Fairplay** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Maybe you made the right choice, SPHP? The air is definitely much clearer now than when we climbed Mount Fairplay 4 days ago.

Oh, yeah! Undisputable. We couldn’t have seen Mount Fairplay at all from here back then, Loop.

The improvement in air quality was most encouraging, but by the time Lupe reached Chicken, another plume of smoke was visible. It turned out to be farther off than it first seemed, and SPHP eventually drove past that region. However, another plume of smoke appeared N of the Top of the World Highway shortly before reaching the Canadian border.

8-6-23, 8:35 PM, Top of the World Highway – Customs closed at 6:00 PM, so Lupe had arrived much too late to enter Canada today. SPHP parked the RAV4 at a pullout a mile W of the border. NW of this pullout, a huge expanse of territory was in view. It was all somewhat smoky, and many small plumes could be seen rising from a hill only a few miles away.

Every now and then, a towering bright orange flame would flare up briefly on that hill before dying away within a few minutes. The air was much clearer to the SE, protected by a breeze that kept the smoke away. After hanging around the pullout for nearly an hour and seeing a fox trot through it, which was pretty exciting, it getting on toward sunset.

We ought to climb Davis Dome (4,124 ft.), SPHP! For an apocalypse, it’s a lovely evening, and I’ve been cooped up in the RAV4 most of the day.

Great minds think alike, Loopster! Let’s do it!

Davis Dome was no big deal – an easy romp! Located immediately WSW of the pullout, less than 300 feet of elevation gain got Lupe to the top.

**Davis Dome** (Center) from the **Top of the World Highway**. Photo looks WSW.

8-6-23, 9:39 PM, Davis Dome (4,124 ft.) – The summit region was big, round, flat, and covered with tundra and small rocks. There were a few things to see up here in addition to the unobstructed expansive views. Conducting a clockwise tour, the first item of interest along this route was an odd green shack near the SW edge.

Part of the **Davis Dome summit region**. Photo looks SW.

By the mysterious green shack. Photo looks SSW.

We’ve seen other sheds like this before, SPHP. I presume it has something to do with the weather or communications like you always tell me?

Yes, I suppose so. I don’t actually know what any of them are for, Loop. Just a guess.

Two cairns were over by the N edge of the summit region. The largest cairn sat on a big rock that had a survey benchmark attached to it. And that was about it for highlights other than the views. Rounded hills and ridges, most of them lower, extended to the horizon in all directions.

While these vast empty scenes were all amazing, a couple of views stood out. Canadian and US customs over by two hills 1.5 mile NE, and looking off to the NW, an orange sun setting beyond the smoking hill.

On the **biggest cairn**. **Survey benchmark** (Center). **US/Canadian customs** is over by the two hills on the R. Photo looks NE.

**Davis Dome survey benchmark**. Sadly, no “Walker” stamp as shown on the maps.

A smoking sunset from the small cairn. Photo looks NW.

Same view with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.

20 minutes on Davis Dome, and the show was over. The sun was gone.

Getting late, Loop. Already 10:00 PM. Might as well head back. Another long drive ahead of us tomorrow.

Are we going to be making any stops along the way, SPHP?

Sure, Looper, but exactly when, where, and for how long all depends on what we find. No big adventures if it’s really smoky.

About to head back down to the RAV4. Photo looks NE.

8-7-23, 12:30 AM – SPHP woke suddenly to a low growl. A waxing moon was shining brightly in the E. At a 90º angle, a bit of twilight remained visible far to the N. Seemed a peculiar arrangement for a night sky, but not unusual in Alaska. Hackles up, Lupe was alert, watching. Something was out there in the night! Considerably larger than the fox seen earlier, a coyote, or maybe a wolf, was slinking its way across the pullout. The American Dingo exploded into a barking frenzy.

A wolf, SPHP! A real live wild wolf!

You’re a great watch Dingo, Looper, but forget it! Not letting you out there to tangle with that!

8-7-23, 7:41 AM, 64ºF – Davis Dome made a great morning constitutional, in addition to offering a first glimpse of what the day had in store. Off to the N, smoke drifted lazily in the valleys, while more billowed up toward the NW.

Morning view of the apocalypse from **Davis Dome**. Photo looks N.

Mordor as seen from afar, Looper.

Mordor? Such drama, SPHP! Look at that incredible blue sky above it all. Everyone knows Mordor doesn’t have skies like that.

Me, drama? Really, Loop? What about your gut-busting barking frenzy last night?

Totally justified. That wolf was real, SPHP!

8-7-23, 11:32 AM, 74ºF – As usual, the Carolina Dog had sailed through Canadian customs without a hitch. After a break for Ritz Crackers and cheese (Dingoes love crackers and cheese!) on the first big hill the Top of the World Highway climbed after entering Yukon Territory, SPHP hadn’t made any other stops. Smoke marred the views during the entire drive to the Yukon River where Lupe now stood waiting for the George Black Ferry to Dawson City.

Blue skies overhead, but the smoke wasn’t any better down in the river valley than it had been 5 days ago.

Waiting for the **George Black Ferry** (L) on the **Yukon River**. Photo looks ENE.

I know it’s smoky, but while we’re in Dawson, can we at least check out the views from Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.), SPHP?

But of course, Sweet Puppy, the smoke isn’t that bad, and Midnight Dome is a tradition. Basically just a drive up, so it won’t take all that long.

**Yukon River** (L & Center) from **Midnight Dome** near Dawson City. Photo looks SW.

8-7-23, 1:12 PM, 81ºF – After leaving Dawson City, air quality improved dramatically during the drive E to the start of the Dempster Highway.

Display at the start of the **Dempster Highway**. Photo looks E.

Wow! Can it be? Maybe the apocalypse has moved on, Loopster.

Uh, no. The journey N on the Dempster had barely begun when a huge plume of smoke came into view. A SE breeze was driving it straight at the Ogilvie Mountains. By KM 25, they could scarcely be seen at all.

Entering **Tombstone Territorial Park**. Dempster Highway KM 48. Photo looks N.

Figures. We’ll see what they have to say at the Tombstone Interpretive Center, Loop.

It’s not looking good, SPHP.

Yeah, maybe we’re crazy coming all the way back here, Looper.

Speak for yourself, SPHP. I’m just along for the adventures!

8-7-23, 3:47 PM, 74ºF, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, KM 71 –

Any news, SPHP?

Yup. Not good news, though. Guess I was nuts for coming back all this way. They say the forecast is still for widespread heat and smoke. Chance of rain in a few days, but we’re not going to just sit here hoping for that to actually happen.

So, what’s the plan, SPHP?

We’re just going to keep driving N hoping for improvement, Loop.

And if we don’t get any? Then what, SPHP?

We’re committed now, Looper. Suppose we’ll simply drive all the way to Tuktoyaktuk and take a walk along the Arctic Ocean. Then we’ll have one last shot at conditions being better on the way back S.

Into the heart of the Arctic apocalypse then, SPSP?

Looks that way, Sweet Puppy.

The smoke was bad all the way through the Ogilvie Mountains. Lupe stared out the window as the RAV4 rolled past the sites of many terrific former adventures. Goldensides, Angelcomb, Surfbird, Peak 5262, Windy Pass Peak. In a thick haze, none of them bore the same appeal today. SPHP did stop for a little while at the bubbling pond several KM before Surfbird Mountain so the American Dingo could have a sniff.

At the **bubbling pond**. Photo looks E.

Lupe was already on the way down the N side of the range by the time SPHP was willing to stop for some scenic river views. Engineer Creek and its mineral-laden orange tan waters was first. When Sapper Hill (3,084 ft.) came into view, it wasn’t much farther to the Ogilvie River. All of the drought-stricken rivers and streams were running way lower than Lupe had ever seen them before.

By **Engineer Creek**, still the same orange tan color, but a mere shadow of its former self. Photo looks S.

Approaching **Sapper Hill** (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.

**Sapper Hill** (Center) from the **Ogilvie River bridge**. Photo looks ESE.

The Ogilvie River bridge goes right over the confluence with Engineer Creek, and provides an interesting view of the dramatic color contrast in the downstream direction before the waters mix. Lupe went out on the bridge for a look.

**Upstream view** of the **Ogilvie River**. Photo looks SW.

**Downstream view** right after **Engineer Creek** joins in from the R. Photo looks NNE.

Careful, Loopster, and stay close! Let’s be quick about this. Seems like there’s 5 or 10 times as much traffic as there used to be.

Everyone else is discovering the Dempster Highway, too, SPHP, ever since the all-season extension from Inuvik to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk.

I know it, Loop. Can’t blame them for coming, the views from the highway alone are an epic adventure!

True enough, when there isn’t an Arctic Apocalypse going on and you can actually see them, SPHP.

Yeah, that’s been the whole problem lately, hasn’t it, Looper?

Two young men were relaxing under the Ogilvie River bridge. SPHP had a chat with them.

**Sapper Hill** (Center & R) from the **Ogilvie River**. Photo looks E.

What did they say, SPHP?

They’re in the process of bicycling all the way to Tuktoyaktuk, Loop. Some people do such amazing things!

Not sure that’s such a great idea during an apocalypse, SPHP, even though we’re here, too.

Yeah, they were complaining about the never-ending smoke, Loopster. I can’t imagine how much particulate they must be inhaling. Can’t be good!

Leaving the mountains wasn’t helping. Churchward Hill was visible from the Elephant Rock rest area, a mere pullout along the Ogilvie River, but the Dempster Highway was all heat, dust, and smoke as the journey down the river valley continued.

**Churchward Hill** (Center) from the **Ogilvie River**. Photo looks NNE.

The **typical Dempster Highway Arctic apocalypse** view.

8-7-23, 8:11 PM. Dempster Highway KM 259 – Surprisingly, no one was around after the big climb along Seven Mile Hill when Lupe reached the Ogilvie Ridge rest area. Normally there was a grand view of the Ogilvie and Peel river valley, as well as the N side of the Ogilvie Mountains, from here. Nothing to be seen today except particulate.

Two ravens hoping for a handout provided amusement.

At the **Ogilvie Ridge viewpoint** and rest area.

Whatever you do, SPHP, don’t ask either of these ravens if we’ll ever see blue sky again. You know what they’ll say!

Indeed I do, Loopster. Not going to make that mistake!

With precious little to be seen here today other than the ravens and a few informational plaques on display, Lupe was soon on her way again.

Still time enough for a quick adventure today, Looper.

Really? What kind of adventure, SPHP?

The Ogilvie Ridge (3,048 ft.) high point is actually still some distance ahead. Won’t be long before we’ll be in that area. The Dempster Highway gets fairly close to the summit. Without much of an effort, we could tag it, just to say we’ve been there. What do you think?

Sounds good to me, SPHP. At least it’s something!

8-7-23, 8:40 PM, 74ºF – When a tower came into view on a nearby hill ahead, SPHP slowed down, looking for an access road on the L. Going around a bend, sure enough, there it was! SPHP parked the RAV4.

This is going to be even easier than I thought, Loop. Didn’t know that this would be a road hike.

Parked at the **start of the Ogilvie Ridge tower access road**. Photo looks NE.

Immediately upon setting out, the access road curved E, then continued that way for nearly a KM before making a sweeping 180º curve N and back around to the W. The microwave tower was once again in view ahead. The Ogilvie Ridge summit was, too, somewhat beyond it.

Heading up the access road. Photo looks E.

The **microwave tower** appears ahead. **Ogilvie Ridge summit** (R). Photo looks NW.

At the end of the access road, Lupe went around the fence enclosing the tower before heading NW across a brushy meadow toward the summit. Instead of a featureless, gently rounded dome, SPHP was surprised to see that Ogilvie Ridge’s summit sported some rock formations.

Approaching the **Ogilvie Ridge summit**. Photo looks NW.

A nice little scramble to the top. Photo looks WSW.

8-7-23, 9:05 PM, Ogilvie Ridge (3,048 ft.) – Three cairns were up here, the first one toward the SE, right where Lupe came up. The others sat next to each other a bit farther NW. The microwave tower was in view from any of them, as well as a decent-sized, flat, rocky summit plateau that extended a short distance N.

Due to the apocalypse, distant views were limited to the hazy outlines of hills a few miles away, or of nothing at all, depending on the direction.

The **microwave tower** from the **lone cairn**. Photo looks SE.

**Twin cairns** (Center) next to Lupe, **most of the summit plateau** (foreground), and the **best distant view** (L) under the circumstances. Photo looks NNW.

Congratulations, Loopster! May I shake your paw? Can’t be too many Dingoes that have ever stood on the Ogilvie Ridge summit.

Certainly, SPHP! And might I remind you that it’s chocolate coconut bar time?

Ogilvie Ridge is such an easy romp that I didn’t even bring the pack, Loop.

A chocolate coconut bar would have fit in your pocket, SPHP.

Disappointingly, an exploratory stroll about the summit plateau yielded no sign of the survey benchmark that was supposed to be up here. And that was about it for Ogilvie Ridge. After a brief stay, Lupe scrambled back down the same way she’d come up, and headed back to the road.

A look from above at the rock formations where Lupe came up. Taken from the lone cairn. Photo looks NE.

8-7-23, 11:08 PM, Ogilvie Ridge – The smoke was so terrible by the time the trip journal was caught up, how far away the wildfires of the Arctic apocalypse could actually be was a real question. Perhaps worryingly close. SPHP had spoken to quite a few people during the day. Like Lupe, everyone was going to Tuktoyaktuk, had been there already, or turned back before reaching Eagle Plains, because the smoke had been ghastly. Hard to know what tomorrow, or even tonight, would bring.

8-8-23, 6:23 AM, 62ºF, Ogilvie Ridge – Well, not much of a change so far. The smoke was still awful.

At least we didn’t burn to a crisp last night, Looper. I was beginning to wonder. Onward, Sweet Puppy?

Onward, SPHP!

During the long drive to Eagle Plains, the Dempster Highway stayed up on big rounded ridges connecting various high points along the way. It was a winding, up and down journey. SPHP actually had several more hills in mind for mid-apocalypse entertainment that the Carolina Dog could tag for some rare Yukon Territory peakbagging credit. These hills were all among the highest along their stretch of the highway.

8-8-23, 7:39 AM, 58ºF – First up was Aitch Hill (2,198 ft.), roughly 40 miles beyond the Ogilvie Ridge summit. Shortly before reaching where the Dempster Highway topped out only 0.25 mile S of Aitch’s summit, a nice roomy pullout appeared on the L.

Here, we go, Loopster! Perfect spot to stash the RAV4 during our romp.

About to set out for **Aitch Hill** on another lovely apocalypse morning. Photo looks ESE.

Taking advantage of the road, Lupe followed the Dempster Highway NE a short distance before climbing a small embankment and plunging NW into the boreal forest.

Following the Dempster Highway before venturing L into the forest. Photo looks NE.

Aitch Hill was a blast! The American Dingo had a fabulous time sniffing her way first NW, then NNE in search of the true summit through a maze of narrow open lanes between the trees and bushes. No human junk cluttering up the mountain here! Aitch Hill was still wild.

There wasn’t even a cairn when Lupe reached what seemed to be about the highest point in a vast, almost level, forested region. SPHP built one.

Lupe by her cairn at the **Aitch Hill true summit**, to the extent it could be determined. Photo looks ESE.

The point where Lupe’s new cairn sat was a little SW of where SPHP had guessed the location of the true summit when entering Aitch Hill into the Peakbagger.com database. Wandering NE, it was impossible to tell if this area was any higher. Might as well head back. Turning E in search of the highway, Lupe quickly reached the edge of a 20 foot depression.

Along the rim of the **Aitch Hill depression**. Photo looks SSE.

Staying on the high ground, the American Dingo followed the rim of the depression S until she could turn E again, soon reaching the Dempster Highway on top of a steep 20 foot high bank. Turning SW, Lupe followed this edge, too, until the bank shrank away enough to enable a road hike the rest of the way back to the RAV4.

8-8-23, 9:08 AM, 64ºF, Peak 815M (2,674 ft.) – After spotting another tower on a high point only 8 miles past Aitch Hill, SPHP made a L turn off the Dempster Highway onto a road that went 0.1 mile to where it split into 3 roads. Two of them led directly to a huge gravel highway maintenance yard. The third road angled uphill off to the R.

That must be the way to the tower we saw, Looper.

About to set off for **Peak 815M** via the **road seen at far R**. Photo looks N.

After a bit of steepness right at the start, Lupe followed the road’s gentle incline NE to where it hooked ESE the rest of the way to the tower at Peak 815M’s summit less than 0.5 mile from the RAV4.

The **microwave tower atop Peak 815M**. Photo looks SE.

Looks like the true summit is inside the fence, Loopster.

So it does, SPHP, and you know what? How much higher can it be than where we’re standing right now? A few feet at most. Close enough for Dingo work, I’m claiming it! Shake my paw, and we’re outta here!

8-8-23, 10:14 AM, 65ºF – The morning’s final peak was the best, and by far the most daring, Arctic apocalyptic experience of all. 11.5 miles past Peak 815M, SPHP turned L again onto a wide side road directly across the Dempster Highway from Corbett Hill’s NW slope.

Parked along the side road. **Dempster Highway** (L). Photo looks S.

Are you out of your mind, SPHP? It’s still on fire!

Just a little smoke, Loopster. We’re used to it by now, aren’t we?

Where there’s smoke there’s fire, SPHP! Let’s skip this one.

Eh, looks to me like the fire largely burnt itself out in the past few days, Looper. We’ll be fine. It’s only a little over 0.5 mile to the summit. Won’t take us long. If anything flares up at all, or if it gets breezy, we’ll come right back. Promise.

The American Dingo was leery, but followed SPHP up into the freshly charred forest.

Starting up **Corbett Hill’s NW slope**. Photo looks SE.

Lupe soon got used to the blackened tundra. Showers of brown needles fell off the trees whenever SPHP brushed up against them. Only parts of Corbett Hill had burned, leaving patches of both charred and untouched tundra and forest.

Exploring still smoldering **Corbett Hill**. Photo looks E.

Lupe passed several 6 to 8 foot deep pits, 20 feet wide and 40 feet long, dug by machinery for some unfathomable reason. There were no roads to them. More than halfway to the summit, she reached a big clearing.

The big clearing on the way to the summit. Photo looks SE.

If this doesn’t look like an Arctic apocalypse, I don’t know what does, SPHP!

Have to agree, Looper. Seems incredible, doesn’t it? Sure isn’t what the word “Arctic” typically brings to mind.

8-8-23, 10:43 AM, 65ºF, Corbett Hill (2,497 ft.) – Lupe rested comfortably on a patch of unburned tundra next to a metal tripod at the apparent true summit. A survey marker was centered directly below the tripod.

Congratulations, Loopster! Corbett Hill! Told ya we’d make it. Safe as a mouse in church.

Maybe so, SPHP. It’s certainly been an unusual adventure. Kind of freaked me out, but I don’t really mind it at all now. Still might be a good idea to head back soon, though.

Oh, we’re going to, Loop. Eagle Plains is only 3 miles from Corbett Hill. I’m looking forward to lunch at the Arctic Circle Restaurant. I’ll make sure you get a treat, too.

Well, what are we waiting for then? Onward! SPHP, ho!

8-8-23, 11:38 AM, 68ºF, Dempster Highway KM 369 – Eagle Plains was sure different from the other times Lupe had been here. Usually it was soaking wet and frigid, sometimes snowing hard and even threatening to become a blizzard. In these modern days of the Arctic apocalypse, though, Eagle Plains was smoky, warm, and dry.

After SPHP filled the RAV4 with fuel ($2.15 CAN per liter), Lupe got to go into the Eagle Plains Hotel with SPHP. She didn’t enter the restaurant, but got to meet some of the denizens in the lobby.

Outside the entrance to the **Arctic Circle Restaurant**.

SPHP did enter the restaurant. Had a Reuben sandwich and a Coke.

Entering the **Arctic Circle Restaurant**.

Prices were high, service was slow, portions were small, but everyone was friendly, and it was good! The Arctic Circle Restaurant and Eagle Plains Hotel were the only such services between Dawson City and Inuvik, an island of civilization in a truly vast wilderness. Lupe and SPHP were lucky to be here! (Note: Fuel is available from 2 automated stations at the start of the Dempster Highway.)

8-8-23, 12:58 PM, 71ºF, Eagle Plains – As promised, Lupe got her treat, a Dingo stick. A white dog outside the hotel got one, too.

Nice, but next time get me a Reuben sandwich, too, SPHP. What’s next on our apocalypse tour?

Only 35 KM to the Arctic Circle, Loopster. We’ll be there within the hour!

On **Corbett Hill** during the Arctic apocalypse, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-8-23

Links

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Eagle Plains Hotel

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

Top of the World Highway

The Taylor Highway

Lupe’s Davis Dome GPS Track (8-6-23)

Lupe’s Ogilvie Ridge GPS Track (8-7-23)

Lupe’s Aitch Hill GPS Track (8-8-23)

Lupe’s Peak 815M GPS Track (8-8-23)

Lupe’s Corbett Hill GPS Track (8-8-23)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail, Alaska – Twelvemile Summit Wayside to Table Mountain (8-5-23)

Day 14 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8:14 AM, 52ºF, Steese Highway MP 85.5, Twelvemile Summit Wayside – Sigh. Smoky again this morning.

At the **Twelvemile Summit Wayside** on a rather smoky morning.

Definitely worse than yesterday, SPHP. Are we still going?

Can’t win for losing, can we, Loopster? Yeah, we’re still going. We’re here now, and the smoke isn’t terrible, so we might as well make the best of it.

Crossing the Steese Highway, Lupe started up the boardwalk path at this end of the Pinnell Mountain National Recreational Trail.

About to set off on the **Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail**. Photo looks NW.

Relatively new, the boardwalk was in great shape as Lupe followed it NW up a long slope of tundra and low bushes. Two hills were ahead. The closest, HP3762, appeared to have some rock formations on top. The other hill was a huge featureless dome that was considerably higher.

On the lovely new boardwalk. **Dome 4150** (L), **HP3762** (R). Photo looks NW.

The Carolina Dog hadn’t made it very far before SPHP began to realize that smoke wasn’t the only detraction today.

Ugh! The mosquitoes are bad, Looper.

Use your bug spray, SPHP.

Didn’t even think to bring it, Loop. Left it in the RAV4.

We can still go back for it, if you want to, SPHP.

Eh, the mosquitoes weren’t actually all that bad. Like a fool, SPHP kept going, hoping for a breeze.

As the trail began curving N toward HP3762, the nice, new boardwalk came to an end. In some places, a much older, deteriorating boardwalk still existed, in others, Lupe followed a dirt path. Going through a long stretch of larger bushes, mosquitoes and flies plagued SPHP’s left ear, leaving the right one largely unscathed.

Approaching **HP3762** (Center). Photo looks N.

On one of the particularly bushy and buggy stretches. Photo looks NNE.

Not sure why they don’t like my right ear, Loopster, but I wish the left one had the same issue.

No whining, SPHP! You had your chance to go back for the bug spray and didn’t take it.

The trail got fairly close to HP3762, but didn’t go all the way to it, and neither did Lupe. Instead, the increasingly dilapidated boardwalk took aim at a saddle to the NE along the same enormous, gently-rounded ridge HP3762 was part of.

As close to **HP3762** (L) as Lupe got. Photo looks WNW.

A smoky glance back at the **Steese Highway** (L) from **E of HP3762**. Photo looks SW.

Approaching the crest of the enormous ridge. Photo looks NNE.

By the time the American Dingo reached the top of the ridge, she was well beyond what remained of the old boardwalk. The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail turned NE, soon leading to a steeper climb in rockier terrain. Bushes vanished, and, to SPHP’s relief, so did the bugs.

Along one of the rockiest stretches. Photo looks NE.

As Lupe gained elevation, part of Table Mountain (4,472 ft.) came into view, still several miles away. The trail began passing several cool rock formations. Lupe scrambled up onto one of the first big ones.

**Table Mountain** (Center) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

Having fun on one of the cool rock formations. Photo looks NNE.

Same spot, looking back at **HP3762** (L of Center) and **Dome 4150** (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

The giant ridge soon began to level out. Ahead, a series of hills appeared along it, each one a bit higher than the one before.

Approaching a **series of minor hills** (Center & R). **Table Mountain** (L). Photo looks NE.

Along in here, Lupe met a young man who related a most interesting tale to SPHP. Two days ago, he had set out from the opposite end of the trail at Eagle Summit Wayside. Without realizing it, this guy had somehow managed to walk into the middle of a very large herd of caribou. They’d scared him half to death when they all suddenly spooked, springing up and fleeing right past him in all directions.

The backpacker continued on, leaving the Carolina Dog extraordinarily impressed.

Wow! Can you imagine that, SPHP? Being right in the middle of the herd! It doesn’t get any more exciting than that!

An incredible tale to be sure, Loopster, but don’t get your hopes up. If he’d had an excitable, shrill-barking Dingo with a keen nose along with him, I doubt he would have ever gotten anywhere close to any caribou, much less find himself surrounded.

Among the minor hills, progress was rapid. The trail bounced along, sometimes going right over the high points, and sometimes skirting them to the L (NW). Soon Lupe was approaching the last one, which was the highest.

Staying toward the R (SE), the trail didn’t go to the top, but this time the American Dingo did. Venturing off-trail across a mix of sparse tundra and scree, Lupe visited HP4125. This short side jaunt rewarded her with her first unobstructed view of Table Mountain, now a mere 2 miles away as the crow flies.

The easy, almost level trek through the minor hills. Photo looks NE.

Up on the ridge, the tundra was pretty sparse, but this mushroom was cool.

Approaching **HP4125** (L of Center). Photo looks NE.

**Table Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NE.

10:04 AM, 61ºF, HP4125 – Sadly, the smoke was pretty bad, marring the views in all directions. Nevertheless, Lupe took a short rest break here, enjoying water, beef jerky, and a light SE breeze. However, it was soon time to press on.

Returning to the trail, it switchbacked approximately 300 feet down a SE slope before turning NE while crossing a saddle leading to HP3865, the next significant hill along the ridge. This mostly downhill trek was super easy. Even while approaching HP3865 elevation gain was minimal, since the trail didn’t go over the top, instead skirting around the L (NW) side.

Starting down the switchbacks. **HP3865** (L of Center) in foreground. Photo looks ENE.

In the **saddle region** after descending **from HP4125** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Crossing the saddle W of **HP3865** (R). **Table Mountain** (L), Photo looks NE.

Another glance back at **HP4125** (R). **HP3865’s N slope** (L). Photo looks WSW.

Once Lupe made it to HP3865‘s NNE slope, another 200 foot descent on a few more switchbacks to a broad, rounded saddle was ahead. From the saddle, an equally broad ridge rose NNE toward Table Mountain. Like the rest of the trail, none of this terrain was particularly rugged.

**Table Mountain** (R of Center) from **HP3865’s NNE slope**. Photo looks NNE.

Cake, SPHP! At least, until we get to the base of the mountain.

Even from there, the trail shouldn’t be all that steep, Loop. The topo map shows it angling up the R (SE) side of the mountain. It won’t even reach the upper plateau until it’s nearly 0.5 mile past the summit. An easy romp circling back to the high point once up on the plateau, and we’ll be there!

After descending to this final saddle on the way to Table Mountain, Lupe started up the ridge. The trail got pretty faint, but that didn’t matter in the least, since the overall route was entirely obvious. Even if it hadn’t been, a series of cairns with wooden poles or tall stones sticking up from them showed the way.

Following the ridge, the vast majority of the terrain continued to be a mix of low tundra and scree, but the American Dingo also passed a few scenic boulders and minor rock outcroppings.

About as rocky as it got. Photo looks N.

As Lupe approached the base of Table Mountain, SPHP became puzzled. There didn’t seem to be any sign of the trail angling up the mountain’s SE slope as indicated by the topo map. In fact, the faint trail Lupe was on seemed inclined to veer off to the N.

Approaching **Table Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NE.

While SPHP studied the mountain, Lupe was focused on something else. Suddenly dashing ahead, she stopped, putting her nose to the air.

SPHP, look! Caribou!

**Caribou** on **Table Mountain’s SW slope**. Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

They were so far off, it took SPHP a moment to spot them. Sure enough, a small herd of caribou was almost directly ahead, a bit toward the N, grazing on Table Mountain’s SW slope. Lupe was tremendously excited! Here was her chance to saunter right into the middle of the herd, just like the young man had!

Yeah, right! As SPHP expected, the caribou quickly noticed the Carolina Dog’s approach as the trail headed straight for them. Becoming nervous, and perhaps knowing something about the route along the SE side of the mountain, they ran over that way, eventually disappearing from view.

Naturally, Lupe was keen on following the caribou, but the trail never did turn SE. Instead, it curved N and began climbing Table Mountain’s massive, but relatively short NW ridge.

Heading up **Table Mountain’s NW ridge**. Photo looks NNW.

A few rocky stretches presented no difficulties at all, since the trail was in decent shape up here, and a marmot helped divert Lupe’s focus from her disappointment over the caribou’s wary vanishing act. Near the top, a series of switchbacks finished the climb to the crest of the ridge. Lupe reached it just below a 10 or 15 foot high escarpment of rock.

An **official trail marker** along the switchbacks. Photo looks ENE.

Near the **crest of Table Mountain’s NW ridge**. Photo looks NW.

Below the **escarpment**. Photo looks ENE.

Initially following the base of the escarpment, the trail soon led above it. Beyond a stretch of gently rising tundra, a second escarpment was only a few minutes stroll ESE. A cairn was visible at the high point.

Approaching **Table Mountain’s summit** (R). Photo looks SE.

12:23 PM, 63ºF, Table Mountain (4,472 ft.) – Near the NW edge of the upper escarpment, Lupe stood on a flat, square rock next to the summit cairn. 6 feet on each side, and 2 feet thick, this rock was easily larger than any of the others scattered across an open plain of tundra and scree very similar to the rest of the territory the American Dingo had been traveling through along the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail.

Despite the smoky haze, the Carolina Dog could see the mountains that weren’t too far away, although the scene lacked as much in crispness and clarity as these hills and ridges lacked any genuine ruggedness.

Beyond Lupe, back in the direction she’d come from, HP3865, HP4125, HP3762, Dome 4150, and the even larger McManus Benchmark Dome (4,200+ ft.) were in sight below a flotilla of small cumulus clouds drifting above the worst of the smoke.

**HP4125** (far L), **HP3762** (L), **Dome 4150** (L of Center) & **McManus Benchmark Dome** (Center) from **Table Mountain’s summit**. Photo looks WSW.

The smoke still hasn’t gotten any better, has it, Loopster? Too bad, but at least it’s not any worse, either. Kind of cool to see the vast emptiness of the territory we’ve just explored.

Actually, I was rather hoping that the caribou were up here, SPHP. Maybe a chocolate coconut bar could help me deal with my disillusionment?

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, congratulating her on her successful ascent, then sat on the big square rock supporting the cairn.

Have a seat, Loop. I’ll see what I can do about that. About time for lunch, anyway.

**Table Mountain’s NW ridge** (Center) from the summit. Photo looks NW.

After sharing beef jerky and water with the American Dingo, SPHP was just about to dig the anticipated chocolate coconut bar out of the pack when Lupe abruptly got up and left. Glancing up from the pack, SPHP saw what had caught her attention. People! They were approaching from the E, and Lupe was trotting over to greet them.

It turned out to be an Alaskan family, or at least most of one, a mother and her 3 children. Happy and surprised to see Lupe, and also ready for lunch, they joined SPHP over at the square rock supporting the summit cairn. Taking sandwiches out of their packs, they cheerfully related their tale while stroking and admiring Lupe.

Hanging out with real Alaskans on **Table Mountain**.

This family lived completely off the grid in a home on 20 acres not too far from the Steese Highway. Since no road or driveway actually goes to their house, getting to town regularly was difficult. Consequently, mom home schools all of her children, ranging in age from 7 to 15.

Although they didn’t live all that far away, they’d never explored the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail before. Happily, 2 days ago, the children’s uncle had given them a ride to the Eagle Summit Wayside at the opposite end, where, just like the young man Lupe met earlier, they’d set off intent upon backpacking the entire 27 mile trail. After 2 nights spent along the way, later this afternoon they would complete their journey at the Twelvemile Summit Wayside where their own car was parked waiting for them.

The children were all extremely polite, friendly, and eager to talk about their backpacking experience. Lupe’s ears perked up when she heard that they’d been counting caribou as they went along as accurately as they could, and were now up to 460! Most of the caribou had been along the central part of the trail, many miles from the highway.

By the time the family bid Lupe farewell in order to resume their trek to Twelvemile Summit, her traditional summit hour was nearly over.

460 caribou, SPHP! I know we were going to turn back here, but maybe we should go a little further?

Actually, I’d like to go all the way to Peak 4447, Loop, but that would add an awful lot of round trip distance. However, if you like, we can explore Table Mountain’s NE ridge.

Sounds great, SPHP! Let’s do it!

About ready to leave the **summit** to explore the NE ridge. Photo looks E.

Hitting the trail again, Lupe followed it E, beginning a gradual descent along a sweeping mile long arc out to the N end of Table Mountain’s NE ridge.

Heading for the **NE ridge** (L). Photo looks NE.

Glancing back at the **summit** (L) and **NW ridge** (R). Photo looks W.

Lupe regained a little elevation as the trail traversed the NW side of a modest rise before resuming the descent to a broad saddle. Here, the trail continued NE over the edge of the ridge, vanishing on its way to a couple more peaks along the official route. Peak 4447 was somewhere out there, but SPHP wasn’t certain if it was among the ones in sight.

Regaining a little elevation. **NE ridge** (L). Photo looks NE.

Descending to **final saddle** (Center). **NE ridge** (L), **more peaks along the official trail** (R). Photo looks NE.

Abandoning the trail, Lupe turned N as she reached the broad saddle, which was a slightly brighter green than the rest of the tundra. Crossing this region, it turned out to be wet, but another a modest rise soon got the Carolina Dog back on dry ground.

Staying toward the W edge, Lupe went all the way out to the N end of Table Mountain’s NE ridge. Table Mountain looked quite a bit different from this angle. Sadly, no caribou were out this way. At the moment, a few brown and white mushrooms were about the most scintillating and exotic form of life on the entire ridge.

**Table Mountain summit** (Center) from the NE ridge. Photo looks SW.

Exotic mushrooms were about it for excitement on the NE ridge.

Going a little E along the N edge, Lupe had the best view yet of some of the territory the rest of the trail went through. Far to the NE, SPHP was virtually certain that Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.), the trail’s high point, and Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.) were in sight, both nearly lost in the smoky haze.

**Pinnell Mountain** (R of Center) faintly in the distance. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

We were way over there, Loopster, on Pinnell Mountain only a little over 11 months ago, remember?

Of course, I do, SPHP. A cold wind was blowing, and we looked this way while waiting for sunset, wishing we could do the entire Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail like the young man and the Alaskan family we met today. When sunset arrived, it was glorious!

You looked like you were floating among the golden clouds, Looper! Later that evening, fog rolled in, and it got mighty cold in the tiny house.

What an adventure, SPHP! Already seems like a long time ago. Have to admit I’m glad that I don’t have to be cold and wet on the way back to Twelvemile Summit Wayside today, like I was returning from Pinnell Mountain.

2:22 PM, N end of Table Mountain’s NE ridge – Well, Lupe was right, this was it. Time to head back. If SPHP had brought Lupe’s tiny house and lugged all the necessary supplies along today, she could have continued on to Peak 4447 and beyond. What an exciting time the American Dingo would have had among 460 caribou!

Discouraged by the smoke, though, SPHP hadn’t brought the tiny house.

Sometimes, I just don’t know what to do, Loop.

We do the best we can, SPHP. Always another adventure somewhere, isn’t there? Table Mountain has been fun and easy. Nothing wrong with that!

On the way back, Lupe simply retraced her route, paying another brief visit to Table Mountain’s summit before switchbacking down off the NW ridge, another hours long romp among the rolling hills and ridges of the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail ahead. (End 5:31 PM, 70ºF)