Part 2 of Day 33 & Days 34-36 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-24-23, 10:15 AM – The sodden 700 foot tramp NE beneath a leaden sky along Denali Highway No. 8 back to the shelter of the RAV4 was a happy one. Lupe was thrilled to hop back up onto her pink blanket when SPHP opened the door. SPHP fired the engine up right away, drove 1.5 miles back to the rest area with a partial view of Sevenmile Lake, and parked.
Lupe busily licked herself dry while SPHP exchanged sopping wet boots and socks for dry ones.
What’s for breakfast, SPHP? I’m totally famished.
I’ll rustle up something in a moment, Loopster. Hang on.
Ritz crackers and cheese served the purpose. When the cheese ran out, SPHP fetched a summer sausage to augment the feast. Lupe munched away, clearly cheered by both food and shelter, a vast improvement over the desperate, wet battle through bogs and bushes back to the highway.
After eating, weariness took over. Lupe and SPHP both slept.
8-24-23, 12:30 PM, Denali Highway rest area near Sevenmile Lake – It was raining again and windy when the Carolina Dog woke from her nap.
Any more Ritz crackers and summer sausage, SPHP? I’m hungry again.
SPHP put down the trip journal.
Does sound good, Looper. Yeah, we’ve got more.
The feast resumed. Lupe crunched happily away, diligently licking up any cracker crumbs that fell on her pink blanket.
So, what’s the plan, SPHP?
Today? In this weather? Nada! We’re just going to hang out right here in the RAV4, Loop. My sore paws need time to recover, anyway. I’ll catch up the trip journal, and we can snooze and feast as much as we like. As far as doing anything else goes, we’ll see what things look like tomorrow.
And so it went. SPHP spent the afternoon and evening working on the trip journal. Between meals and naps, the American Dingo got a Dingo stick and a Busy Rib Hide to relieve her boredom. Every now and then the rain quit briefly before setting in again, the overall situation getting progressively worse. The sky got darker and darker. The clouds were so low that wisps of fog sailed by. Gusts of wind shook the RAV4, helping the rain wash the mud off the RAV4.
Through it all, quite a few other vehicles came and went. Some stayed a while before moving on. SPHP talked to a woman who said the storm was supposed to go on for 2 more days. The way things looked, SPHP wouldn’t have been surprised if she’d said weeks or months.
8-24-23, 11:55 PM, 50ºF – SPHP turned off the headlamp and yawned. Lupe had been zonked for hours. At least the trip journal was caught up. Outside, the night was pitch black, the weather, atrocious.
8-25-23, 7:08 AM, 47ºF, Denali Highway rest area near Sevenmile Lake – The Carolina Dog was looking out the window when SPHP came to. No longer raining, and the SW wind had abated quite a bit, too. Although the mountains remained hidden in the gray gloom hovering over all, Sevenmile Lake and the lowlands near it were in view.
About time we get out to sniff the air, Loopster. C’mon!
Not that bad out, especially compared to yesterday. On the other paw, the scene didn’t inspire much confidence in outdoor activities, either.
Far to the SE, near the distant horizon, the sky looked brighter.
What are you thinking, SPHP?
Same as you, Loopster. Another raw, wet day with everything above us lost in fog. Not exactly made for climbing mountains, is it?
So, are we going to wait around here hoping for improvement, SPHP, or do something else?
No, not going to stick around when my paws are feeling better, and the trip journal’s all caught up, Loop. Especially knowing that it’s supposed to stay this way at least through tomorrow. We shouldn’t waste these days.
Where to then, SPHP?
Maybe things are better out on the Kenai Peninsula, Loopster? Let’s head for Anchorage, and see what the situation is there.
Lupe was soon on her way. After a scenic drive beneath the gloomy sky back to Richardson Highway No. 4, conditions improved considerably on the way S to Glenallen. Still quite cloudy, but the clouds were much higher, and patches of blue were occasionally seen, too. Encouraging!
Heading W on Glenn Highway No. 1, the Carolina Dog got to do a little sight-seeing as she passed the sites of several former grand adventures. Syncline Mountain came first, quickly followed by Gunsight Mountain, Lion Head, and the Matanuska Glacier.
Arriving in Palmer early in the afternoon, SPHP bought a whole roasted chicken, orange juice, and a few other supplies, then shared the roasted chicken with an enthusiastic American Dingo while parked with a view of mighty Matanuska Peak wearing a wreath of fog.
By 4:00 PM, the RAV4 was at a Jiffy Lube in Anchorage getting an oil change. However, the weather took a turn for the worse during the evening, raining intermittently. Checking the forecast, the news was not good. High probability of rain every day for the next week, except for a 30% chance on Sunday, 2 days from now. Worse yet, that dismal forecast was about the same everywhere – Anchorage, Palmer, Wasilla, the Kenai Peninsula, the Denali Highway, and even the Brooks Range. Ugh!
8-26-23, 3:12 PM, Anchorage – It had rained off and on this morning, but was merely cloudy as Lupe spent an hour wandering the leafy trails in Kincaid Park for a bit of exercise.
If it’s just going to rain everywhere in Alaska for the next week, SPHP, what are we going to do? Hate to leave Alaska so soon after we got here, but didn’t you say that it’s going to be sunnier in the Yukon? Maybe we should go back there?
I don’t want to leave Alaska yet, either, Loopster. We’ve barely scraped the surface of all the mountains on your list of possibilities here on this Dingo Vacation, but we will if the weather won’t cooperate. However, we’re going to stick around at least until Monday. Last night, I emailed Steve Gruhn. He’s got a little time to meet with us tomorrow evening.
Steve Gruhn? You mean Steve Gruhn, the editor of the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter, The Scree, SPHP? That Steve Gruhn?
Gee, I think so. How many Steve Gruhns can there be in Anchorage, Alaska, Loop?
Wow! So were going to get to meet a real Alaskan mountaineering celebrity tomorrow evening? What time, SPHP? And where at?
Don’t know yet, Loopster. Steve will email us when he knows exactly when he’ll be available. And what this means, you’re going to like this part, is that we’re going to stay in a motel tonight, since I’m currently completely unpresentable without a thorough scrubbing.
Steve and I can just leave you in the RAV4, like you sometimes do to me, SPHP.
Oh, no! I’m coming with. I’m not missing out on meeting Steve Gruhn!
8-26-23, Late Afternoon – Motels weren’t cheap in Anchorage, perhaps because the Alaska State Fair was going on near Palmer. Even Motel 6 wanted nearly $250 a night, despite some of the online reviews not being all that wonderful. By Dingo standards, though, Motel 6 merited way more stars than others were apparently willing to concede it. Curled up on a soft, queen size bed, chomping on another Busy Rib Hide, Lupe was in 7th heaven.
Is this what India’s like, SPHP? We ought to go there sometime. Feels like we’re at the Taj Mahal! Do they have Lassie or Rin Tin Tin here? Please turn one of them on, if they do.
Don’t seem to have either one, Loop. You’ll have to settle for Seinfeld.
What! No Lassie or Rin Tin Tin? Guess I’ll have to dock Motel 6 a star for that oversight. Wait! What about Scooby Doo?
Good thinking, Looper. You may be in luck!
After getting cleaned up, SPHP had dinner at the Texas Roadhouse, bringing back a nice big chunk of sirloin steak for Lupe.
I could get used to this, SPHP! If it turns out that Steve Gruhn can’t make it to our meeting tomorrow, I’m willing to let it slide a few more days.
8-27-23, 2:27 PM, 58ºF – No word yet from Steve, and Lupe’s life of luxury at Motel 6 had already ended hours ago at the 11:00 AM checkout time. It hadn’t rained at all so far today, although the sky sure looked like it could when SPHP parked the RAV4 at the Glen Alps trailhead.
We’ve been here before, SPHP.
That’s right! Remember The Wedge & The Ramp, or Flattop Mountain, Loop? We set out for all of them from right here years ago.
Those were great adventures, SPHP! Especially The Wedge & The Ramp.
Have to agree, Looper, but we don’t have time for The Wedge (4,660 ft.) & The Ramp (5,240 ft.) today. They’re both up in the clouds now, anyway. However, we should have time to revisit Flattop Mountain (3,510 ft.) while we wait to hear from Steve.
Oh, that will be fun, SPHP. Let’s do it!
On the E outskirts of Anchorage, the Flattop Mountain trail is one of the most popular hikes in Alaska, and even a cloudy day like this one was no exception. The big parking lot was 75% full, with plenty of people, dogs, and even small children around as Lupe set out on a broad, well-beaten path through the trees.
A short, gentle stroll higher quickly led to open area with an initial view of both Blueberry Knoll (2,625 ft.) and Flattop Mountain (3,510 ft.).
Another short stretch of forest soon led up to another open area where there was a trail junction.
Both trails will get us to the same spot, Loop. R takes us around the W side of Blueberry Knoll, L will take us along the E side. Any preference?
Why not do both, SPHP? How about we go around the E side on the way to Flattop Mountain, and around the W side on the way back?
You’re the brains in this outfit, Loopster! Sounds good to me!
During a very gradual ascent along the E flank of Blueberry Hill, Lupe could see the valley she’d once explored on the way to The Wedge and The Ramp. They were both still in the clouds, but False Peak (4,250 ft.) was in view near the start of the long ridge leading to O’Malley Peak (5,150 ft.), the same ridge that ultimately went on to The Ramp.
The trail began to steepen as the Carolina Dog got close to the SE end of Blueberry Knoll. A much steeper use trail was visible along the E side of the next big hump on the way up Flattop Mountain, but after rounding Blueberry Knoll, Lupe followed what appeared to be the official route, which headed over to the W side of the big hump before curving S again.
Going around the W side of this next hump, Lupe followed long flights of steps built with timbers. In some places, the timbers were rotting, and in others, the dirt they’d once held in place had eroded away. This side of the hump already offered some great views of Anchorage and Cook Inlet, but the American Dingo didn’t pay much attention to them as she had fun climbing the steps.
The steps ultimately led to a fairly large saddle between this last hump and the upper N slopes of Flattop Mountain. The summit was still nearly 500 feet higher.
The final climb to the top of the mountain was a stark contrast from the super easy, almost flat trail back at the start. An obvious trail heading up from the saddle soon got very steep and rocky.
The trail became braided. Lupe had a choice of any number of routes she could follow. Judging from the appearance of the rocks, all had been tried by others countless times before. Before long, an official trail could no longer be discerned, as the ascent deteriorated into a steep scramble by whatever route looked best. Even so, lots of little kids were managing it, often with minimal assistance from their parents.
If they could do it, so could an American Dingo! Lupe led the way, as SPHP tried to follow.
8-27-23, 3:55 PM, 58ºF, Flattop Mountain (3,510 ft.) – Although it had been breezy on the way up, upon reaching an enormous, rolling summit plateau, Lupe was suddenly fully exposed to a 25-30 mph gale out of the SE. Due to some odd quirk of fate, no one else was up here at the time the Carolina Dog arrived.
SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.
Congratulations on your 2nd ascent of Flattop Mountain, Loopster! Let’s get out of this wind!
Finding a spot offering partial protection from the gale a bit down the NW edge of the mountain, Lupe relaxed among the rocks. Before her was a tremendous view of Anchorage and the sea, with both Blueberry Knoll and the last big hump she’d gone around immediately below.
Chocolate coconut bar time, Looper!
You remembered, SPHP! I’ve been wondering if you brought one, or not.
I did. Brought you some Taste of the Wild and water, too.
The chocolate coconut bar was delicious, as always. The wind snatched the wrapper, which nearly sailed over the edge before SPHP managed to latch onto it again.
Nicely done, SPHP!
Thanks, Loop! That was close to getting away from us. Can’t have that!
Lupe enjoyed her Taste of the Wild while SPHP munched on trail mix. Many people, kids, and dogs were arriving now. Some headed back down after staying only a few minutes.
Unfortunately we can’t stay up here all that long, either, Loopster.
No traditional summit hour, SPHP?
Nope. We should get back to Anchorage to check on whether Steve Gruhn has tried to contact us yet, Looper.
Why don’t you just check your iPhone right here, SPHP?
Because we don’t seem to have any service in Alaska, Loop. Wifi works, but that’s it. C’mon! Let’s have a look around before we head down. We’ll start over by the giant cairn, then visit the flagpole.
What happened to the beautiful red, white, and blue American flag that used to be here, SPHP? It would sure be snapping in the breeze today!
I have no idea, Looper. That flag did look awesome when you stood next to it the first time you climbed Flattop Mountain.
Looking SE across the summit plain, Peak Two (3,609 ft.) was in view not too far away. No others were in sight along the ridge beyond it.
The true summit of Flattop Mountain was farther SW. Lupe had yet to tag it, so that was the final, totally necessary step on the agenda. On this late August afternoon, the true summit was a very breezy spot.
8-27-23, 4:32 PM, Flattop Mountain – A last look at the silvery sea from the NW edge, and it was sadly already time to head down.
Of course, the grand views of Anchorage were evident not only during the steep scramble back down to the saddle, but also all along the W side of the both the big hump and Blueberry Knob. Now sheltered from the fierce SE wind, it was easier to fully appreciate them.
8-27-23, 5:54 PM, Glen Alps trailhead – The parking lot was 90% empty when Lupe hopped into the RAV4 prior to the steep winding drive back down into Anchorage. Turned out that Steve Gruhn had left a message 1.5 hours ago. He was free to get together now, if Lupe still wanted to.
Of course, it happened! After meeting Steve in the Texas Roadhouse parking lot, he suggested a stroll along the beach at Kinkaid Park.
Steve was super nice, and it was so awesome that he had made time for Lupe! The tide was out, and during a long walk near mud flats of the Turnagain Arm, the sun slid toward the horizon beyond Fire Island.
Steve was a recently retired Civil Engineer, and an Alaskan native. He was editor of The Scree for the Mountaineering Club of Alaska, and had once served as treasurer. His parents were both school teachers, and Steve actually had old family ties to South Dakota. Steve and his wife have a 10 year old daughter. He’d recently received good news from an MRI on his R knee, which had been giving him some problems. No surgery would be required.
Meeting Steve Gruhn live and in person was an interesting, thoroughly enjoyable experience. If it weren’t for a certain Carolina Dog, SPHP would never have met him. Out of the blue, Steve had contacted Lupe way back in April, 2018 requesting trip reports on her ascents of Lake Benchmark Mountain in the Brooks Range, and Slope Mountain out on Alaska’s North Slope in August, 2017 for publication in The Scree. SPHP had been shocked, but thrilled to submit them on Lupe’s behalf.
What an honor for the American Dingo to appear in the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s newsletter, her stories tucked in among those of real mountaineers who climbed some of the most fearsome peaks in Alaska! Lupe had appeared in The Scree for some of her other exploits during the years since then, too. Steve Gruhn had never turned down any of her submissions.
The time flew. Meeting Steve Gruhn was a dream come true! However, the light began fading, and the moment came to head back to the RAV4.
During the drive back to Steve’s car, he did have discouraging news on the prospects for Lupe’s adventures in Alaska on this Dingo Vacation. 2023 had been cool and wet in Anchorage. Alaska hadn’t had much of a summer. Furthermore, a week of rain, as indicated by the most recent forecast, wouldn’t be anything unusual at all.
Lucky Dingo! Do you realize what an honor Steve Gruhn bestowed upon you tonight, and all the times he’s accepted your submissions to The Scree?
Why shouldn’t he, SPHP? I’m the next Henry Pinkham!
Oh, so you remember that tale Steve related to us in an email years ago?
Of course, SPHP. It was a good one, and reminded me of me!
Ahh, yes! Our unassuming humility, the trait we’re proudest of!
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track & Ascent Statistics
Chugach State Park Map & Brochure
Syncline Mountain, Talkeetna Range, Alaska (8-22-19)
Gunsight Mountain, Talkeetna Range, Alaska (8-23-16)
Lion Head & The Matanuska Glacier, Chugach Range, Alaska (8-24-16)
Matanuska Peak, Chugach Chugach Range, Alaska (9-5-19)
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.
