Flattop Mountain, Chugach Mountains, Alaska & Meeting Steve Gruhn, Editor of The Scree (8-27-23)

Part 2 of Day 33 & Days 34-36 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-24-23, 10:15 AM – The sodden 700 foot tramp NE beneath a leaden sky along Denali Highway No. 8 back to the shelter of the RAV4 was a happy one.  Lupe was thrilled to hop back up onto her pink blanket when SPHP opened the door.  SPHP fired the engine up right away, drove 1.5 miles back to the rest area with a partial view of Sevenmile Lake, and parked.

Lupe busily licked herself dry while SPHP exchanged sopping wet boots and socks for dry ones.

What’s for breakfast, SPHP?  I’m totally famished.

I’ll rustle up something in a moment, Loopster.  Hang on.

Ritz crackers and cheese served the purpose.  When the cheese ran out, SPHP fetched a summer sausage to augment the feast.  Lupe munched away, clearly cheered by both food and shelter, a vast improvement over the desperate, wet battle through bogs and bushes back to the highway.

After eating, weariness took over.  Lupe and SPHP both slept.

8-24-23, 12:30 PM, Denali Highway rest area near Sevenmile Lake – It was raining again and windy when the Carolina Dog woke from her nap.

Any more Ritz crackers and summer sausage, SPHP?  I’m hungry again.

SPHP put down the trip journal.

Does sound good, Looper.  Yeah, we’ve got more.

The feast resumed.  Lupe crunched happily away, diligently licking up any cracker crumbs that fell on her pink blanket.

So, what’s the plan, SPHP?

Today?  In this weather?  Nada!  We’re just going to hang out right here in the RAV4, Loop.  My sore paws need time to recover, anyway.  I’ll catch up the trip journal, and we can snooze and feast as much as we like.  As far as doing anything else goes, we’ll see what things look like tomorrow.

And so it went.  SPHP spent the afternoon and evening working on the trip journal.  Between meals and naps, the American Dingo got a Dingo stick and a Busy Rib Hide to relieve her boredom.  Every now and then the rain quit briefly before setting in again, the overall situation getting progressively worse.  The sky got darker and darker.  The clouds were so low that wisps of fog sailed by.  Gusts of wind shook the RAV4, helping the rain wash the mud off the RAV4.

Through it all, quite a few other vehicles came and went.  Some stayed a while before moving on.  SPHP talked to a woman who said the storm was supposed to go on for 2 more days.  The way things looked, SPHP wouldn’t have been surprised if she’d said weeks or months.

8-24-23, 11:55 PM, 50ºF – SPHP turned off the headlamp and yawned.  Lupe had been zonked for hours.  At least the trip journal was caught up.  Outside, the night was pitch black, the weather, atrocious.

8-25-23, 7:08 AM, 47ºF, Denali Highway rest area near Sevenmile Lake – The Carolina Dog was looking out the window when SPHP came to.  No longer raining, and the SW wind had abated quite a bit, too.  Although the mountains remained hidden in the gray gloom hovering over all, Sevenmile Lake and the lowlands near it were in view.

About time we get out to sniff the air, Loopster.  C’mon!

Not that bad out, especially compared to yesterday.  On the other paw, the scene didn’t inspire much confidence in outdoor activities, either.

Part of Sevenmile Lake (R) from the Denali Highway rest area. Photo looks NE.

Far to the SE, near the distant horizon, the sky looked brighter.

What are you thinking, SPHP?

Same as you, Loopster.  Another raw, wet day with everything above us lost in fog.  Not exactly made for climbing mountains, is it?

So, are we going to wait around here hoping for improvement, SPHP, or do something else?

No, not going to stick around when my paws are feeling better, and the trip journal’s all caught up, Loop.  Especially knowing that it’s supposed to stay this way at least through tomorrow.  We shouldn’t waste these days.

Where to then, SPHP?

Maybe things are better out on the Kenai Peninsula, Loopster?  Let’s head for Anchorage, and see what the situation is there.

Lupe was soon on her way.  After a scenic drive beneath the gloomy sky back to Richardson Highway No. 4, conditions improved considerably on the way S to Glenallen.  Still quite cloudy, but the clouds were much higher, and patches of blue were occasionally seen, too.  Encouraging!

Heading W on Glenn Highway No. 1, the Carolina Dog got to do a little sight-seeing as she passed the sites of several former grand adventures.  Syncline Mountain came first, quickly followed by Gunsight Mountain, Lion Head, and the Matanuska Glacier.

Gunsight Mountain (Center) from Glenn Highway No. 1. Photo looks SW.
Talkeetna Mountains from a rest area SE of Gunsight Mountain. Photo looks SW.
Approaching Lion Head (Center). Photo looks WSW.
Matanuska Glacier. Photo looks S.

Arriving in Palmer early in the afternoon, SPHP bought a whole roasted chicken, orange juice, and a few other supplies, then shared the roasted chicken with an enthusiastic American Dingo while parked with a view of mighty Matanuska Peak wearing a wreath of fog.

By 4:00 PM, the RAV4 was at a Jiffy Lube in Anchorage getting an oil change.  However, the weather took a turn for the worse during the evening, raining intermittently.  Checking the forecast, the news was not good.  High probability of rain every day for the next week, except for a 30% chance on Sunday, 2 days from now.  Worse yet, that dismal forecast was about the same everywhere – Anchorage, Palmer, Wasilla, the Kenai Peninsula, the Denali Highway, and even the Brooks Range.  Ugh!

8-26-23, 3:12 PM, Anchorage – It had rained off and on this morning, but was merely cloudy as Lupe spent an hour wandering the leafy trails in Kincaid Park for a bit of exercise.

At Kincaid Park in western Anchorage.

If it’s just going to rain everywhere in Alaska for the next week, SPHP, what are we going to do?  Hate to leave Alaska so soon after we got here, but didn’t you say that it’s going to be sunnier in the Yukon?  Maybe we should go back there?

I don’t want to leave Alaska yet, either, Loopster.  We’ve barely scraped the surface of all the mountains on your list of possibilities here on this Dingo Vacation, but we will if the weather won’t cooperate.  However, we’re going to stick around at least until Monday.  Last night, I emailed Steve Gruhn.  He’s got a little time to meet with us tomorrow evening.

Steve Gruhn?  You mean Steve Gruhn, the editor of the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter, The Scree, SPHP?  That Steve Gruhn?

Gee, I think so.  How many Steve Gruhns can there be in Anchorage, Alaska, Loop?

Wow!  So were going to get to meet a real Alaskan mountaineering celebrity tomorrow evening?  What time, SPHP?  And where at?

Don’t know yet, Loopster.  Steve will email us when he knows exactly when he’ll be available.  And what this means, you’re going to like this part, is that we’re going to stay in a motel tonight, since I’m currently completely unpresentable without a thorough scrubbing.

Steve and I can just leave you in the RAV4, like you sometimes do to me, SPHP.

Oh, no!  I’m coming with.  I’m not missing out on meeting Steve Gruhn!

8-26-23, Late Afternoon – Motels weren’t cheap in Anchorage, perhaps because the Alaska State Fair was going on near Palmer.  Even Motel 6 wanted nearly $250 a night, despite some of the online reviews not being all that wonderful.  By Dingo standards, though, Motel 6 merited way more stars than others were apparently willing to concede it.  Curled up on a soft, queen size bed, chomping on another Busy Rib Hide, Lupe was in 7th heaven.

Is this what India’s like, SPHP?  We ought to go there sometime.  Feels like we’re at the Taj Mahal!  Do they have Lassie or Rin Tin Tin here?  Please turn one of them on, if they do.

Don’t seem to have either one, Loop.  You’ll have to settle for Seinfeld.

What!  No Lassie or Rin Tin Tin?  Guess I’ll have to dock Motel 6 a star for that oversight.  Wait!  What about Scooby Doo?

Good thinking, Looper.  You may be in luck!

After getting cleaned up, SPHP had dinner at the Texas Roadhouse, bringing back a nice big chunk of sirloin steak for Lupe.

I could get used to this, SPHP!  If it turns out that Steve Gruhn can’t make it to our meeting tomorrow, I’m willing to let it slide a few more days.

8-27-23, 2:27 PM, 58ºF – No word yet from Steve, and Lupe’s life of luxury at Motel 6 had already ended hours ago at the 11:00 AM checkout time.  It hadn’t rained at all so far today, although the sky sure looked like it could when SPHP parked the RAV4 at the Glen Alps trailhead.

Back at the Glen Alps trailhead for the first time in years. Photo looks SE.

We’ve been here before, SPHP.

That’s right!  Remember The Wedge & The Ramp, or Flattop Mountain, Loop?  We set out for all of them from right here years ago.

Those were great adventures, SPHP!  Especially The Wedge & The Ramp.

Have to agree, Looper, but we don’t have time for The Wedge (4,660 ft.) & The Ramp (5,240 ft.) today.  They’re both up in the clouds now, anyway.  However, we should have time to revisit Flattop Mountain (3,510 ft.) while we wait to hear from Steve.

Oh, that will be fun, SPHP.  Let’s do it!

On the E outskirts of Anchorage, the Flattop Mountain trail is one of the most popular hikes in Alaska, and even a cloudy day like this one was no exception.  The big parking lot was 75% full, with plenty of people, dogs, and even small children around as Lupe set out on a broad, well-beaten path through the trees.

Setting out for Flattop Mountain. Photo looks ESE.

A short, gentle stroll higher quickly led to open area with an initial view of both Blueberry Knoll (2,625 ft.) and Flattop Mountain (3,510 ft.).

Flattop Mountain (L), Blueberry Knoll (R). Photo looks SSE.

Another short stretch of forest soon led up to another open area where there was a trail junction.

Both trails will get us to the same spot, Loop.  R takes us around the W side of Blueberry Knoll, L will take us along the E side.  Any preference?

Why not do both, SPHP?  How about we go around the E side on the way to Flattop Mountain, and around the W side on the way back?

You’re the brains in this outfit, Loopster!  Sounds good to me!

During a very gradual ascent along the E flank of Blueberry Hill, Lupe could see the valley she’d once explored on the way to The Wedge and The Ramp.  They were both still in the clouds, but False Peak (4,250 ft.) was in view near the start of the long ridge leading to O’Malley Peak (5,150 ft.), the same ridge that ultimately went on to The Ramp.

Along the E side of Blueberry Knoll. Flattop Mountain (R). Photo looks SSE.
Valley to The Wedge & The Ramp (Center). False Peak (L). Photo looks ESE.

The trail began to steepen as the Carolina Dog got close to the SE end of Blueberry Knoll.  A much steeper use trail was visible along the E side of the next big hump on the way up Flattop Mountain, but after rounding Blueberry Knoll, Lupe followed what appeared to be the official route, which headed over to the W side of the big hump before curving S again.

Near the SE end of Blueberry Knoll. The use trail going up the E side of the next big hump (R) is visible as it climbs toward Flattop Mountain (L). Photo looks SSE.

Going around the W side of this next hump, Lupe followed long flights of steps built with timbers.  In some places, the timbers were rotting, and in others, the dirt they’d once held in place had eroded away.  This side of the hump already offered some great views of Anchorage and Cook Inlet, but the American Dingo didn’t pay much attention to them as she had fun climbing the steps.

Following the steps. Photo looks SW.
A rocky stretch. Flattop Mountain (Center). Photo looks SE.

The steps ultimately led to a fairly large saddle between this last hump and the upper N slopes of Flattop Mountain.  The summit was still nearly 500 feet higher.

On some of the last steps prior to reaching the saddle. Photo looks ESE.
Flattop Mountain (Center) from the saddle. Photo looks SE.

The final climb to the top of the mountain was a stark contrast from the super easy, almost flat trail back at the start.  An obvious trail heading up from the saddle soon got very steep and rocky.

False Peak (far L) as the trail starts getting interesting. Photo looks ESE.
Along the rocky route higher. Photo looks SE.

The trail became braided.  Lupe had a choice of any number of routes she could follow.  Judging from the appearance of the rocks, all had been tried by others countless times before.  Before long, an official trail could no longer be discerned, as the ascent deteriorated into a steep scramble by whatever route looked best.  Even so, lots of little kids were managing it, often with minimal assistance from their parents.

If they could do it, so could an American Dingo!  Lupe led the way, as SPHP tried to follow.

Partway up the big scramble. Photo looks S.
Getting close to the top.

8-27-23, 3:55 PM, 58ºF, Flattop Mountain (3,510 ft.) – Although it had been breezy on the way up, upon reaching an enormous, rolling summit plateau, Lupe was suddenly fully exposed to a 25-30 mph gale out of the SE.  Due to some odd quirk of fate, no one else was up here at the time the Carolina Dog arrived.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations on your 2nd ascent of Flattop Mountain, Loopster!  Let’s get out of this wind!

Finding a spot offering partial protection from the gale a bit down the NW edge of the mountain, Lupe relaxed among the rocks.  Before her was a tremendous view of Anchorage and the sea, with both Blueberry Knoll and the last big hump she’d gone around immediately below.

The final big hump (Center) with Blueberry Knoll beyond it. Anchorage and the Knik Arm in the distance. Photo looks NW.
Turnagain Arm (L) with Cook Inlet beyond Fire Island (L of Center), Knik Arm (R) with Anchorage spread out below. Photo looks NW.

Chocolate coconut bar time, Looper!

You remembered, SPHP!  I’ve been wondering if you brought one, or not.

I did.  Brought you some Taste of the Wild and water, too.

The chocolate coconut bar was delicious, as always.  The wind snatched the wrapper, which nearly sailed over the edge before SPHP managed to latch onto it again.

Nicely done, SPHP!

Thanks, Loop!  That was close to getting away from us.  Can’t have that!

Lupe enjoyed her Taste of the Wild while SPHP munched on trail mix.  Many people, kids, and dogs were arriving now.  Some headed back down after staying only a few minutes.

Unfortunately we can’t stay up here all that long, either, Loopster.

No traditional summit hour, SPHP?

Nope.  We should get back to Anchorage to check on whether Steve Gruhn has tried to contact us yet, Looper.

Why don’t you just check your iPhone right here, SPHP?

Because we don’t seem to have any service in Alaska, Loop.  Wifi works, but that’s it.  C’mon!  Let’s have a look around before we head down.  We’ll start over by the giant cairn, then visit the flagpole.

At the giant cairn, a mini-mountain itself! False Peak (L). Photo looks ESE.
Near the flagpole (L). Knik Arm in the distance. Photo looks N.

What happened to the beautiful red, white, and blue American flag that used to be here, SPHP?  It would sure be snapping in the breeze today!

I have no idea, Looper.  That flag did look awesome when you stood next to it the first time you climbed Flattop Mountain.

Looking SE across the summit plain, Peak Two (3,609 ft.) was in view not too far away.  No others were in sight along the ridge beyond it.

Peak 4160 (L) and Peak Two (R). Photo looks SE.

The true summit of Flattop Mountain was farther SW.  Lupe had yet to tag it, so that was the final, totally necessary step on the agenda.  On this late August afternoon, the true summit was a very breezy spot.

In the wind atop Flattop Mountain. Turnagain Arm (R). Photo looks SW.
At the true summit. Turnagain Arm (L), Fire Island (Center), Anchorage and Knik Arm (R). Photo looks NW.

8-27-23, 4:32 PM, Flattop Mountain – A last look at the silvery sea from the NW edge, and it was sadly already time to head down.

Back along the NW edge. Turnagain Arm in the distance. Photo looks WSW.

Of course, the grand views of Anchorage were evident not only during the steep scramble back down to the saddle, but also all along the W side of the both the big hump and Blueberry Knob.  Now sheltered from the fierce SE wind, it was easier to fully appreciate them.

Anchorage from a platform on the W side of the big hump. Photo looks NW.

8-27-23, 5:54 PM, Glen Alps trailhead – The parking lot was 90% empty when Lupe hopped into the RAV4 prior to the steep winding drive back down into Anchorage.  Turned out that Steve Gruhn had left a message 1.5 hours ago.  He was free to get together now, if Lupe still wanted to.

Of course, it happened!  After meeting Steve in the Texas Roadhouse parking lot, he suggested a stroll along the beach at Kinkaid Park.

Lupe with Steve Gruhn, editor of The Scree, on the beach at Kincaid Park.

Steve was super nice, and it was so awesome that he had made time for Lupe!  The tide was out, and during a long walk near mud flats of the Turnagain Arm, the sun slid toward the horizon beyond Fire Island.

Fire Island near sunset from Point Campbell. Photo looks WNW.

Steve was a recently retired Civil Engineer, and an Alaskan native.  He was editor of The Scree for the Mountaineering Club of Alaska, and had once served as treasurer.  His parents were both school teachers, and Steve actually had old family ties to South Dakota.  Steve and his wife have a 10 year old daughter.  He’d recently received good news from an MRI on his R knee, which had been giving him some problems.  No surgery would be required.

Meeting Steve Gruhn live and in person was an interesting, thoroughly enjoyable experience.  If it weren’t for a certain Carolina Dog, SPHP would never have met him.  Out of the blue, Steve had contacted Lupe way back in April, 2018 requesting trip reports on her ascents of Lake Benchmark Mountain in the Brooks Range, and Slope Mountain out on Alaska’s North Slope in August, 2017 for publication in The Scree.  SPHP had been shocked, but thrilled to submit them on Lupe’s behalf.

What an honor for the American Dingo to appear in the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s newsletter, her stories tucked in among those of real mountaineers who climbed some of the most fearsome peaks in Alaska!  Lupe had appeared in The Scree for some of her other exploits during the years since then, too.  Steve Gruhn had never turned down any of her submissions.

The time flew.  Meeting Steve Gruhn was a dream come true!  However, the light began fading, and the moment came to head back to the RAV4.

During the drive back to Steve’s car, he did have discouraging news on the prospects for Lupe’s adventures in Alaska on this Dingo Vacation.  2023 had been cool and wet in Anchorage.  Alaska hadn’t had much of a summer.  Furthermore, a week of rain, as indicated by the most recent forecast, wouldn’t be anything unusual at all.

Lucky Dingo!  Do you realize what an honor Steve Gruhn bestowed upon you tonight, and all the times he’s accepted your submissions to The Scree?

Why shouldn’t he, SPHP?  I’m the next Henry Pinkham!

Oh, so you remember that tale Steve related to us in an email years ago?

Of course, SPHP.  It was a good one, and reminded me of me!

Ahh, yes!  Our unassuming humility, the trait we’re proudest of!

With Steve Gruhn, editor of The Scree, Anchorage, Alaska 8-27-23
Lupe’s GPS Track

Links:

Next Adventure                    Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track & Ascent Statistics

Chugach State Park Map & Brochure

Lupe in The SCREE! – The Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter & the Story of Henry Pinkham

Syncline Mountain, Talkeetna Range, Alaska (8-22-19)

Gunsight Mountain, Talkeetna Range, Alaska (8-23-16)

Lion Head & The Matanuska Glacier, Chugach Range, Alaska (8-24-16)

Matanuska Peak, Chugach Chugach Range, Alaska (9-5-19)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Matanuska Peak, Chugach Range, Alaska (9-5-19)

Days 31 & 32 of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

9-4-19, 1:45 PM, at a pullout along the Edgerton Highway

About time, sleepyhead!

Heh, sorry about that Looper.  How long have I been out?

An hour.  Are you alright, SPHP?

Yes, much better, thank you.  That Benadryl I took really did a number on me.  Just couldn’t stay awake.  Fine now.  Ready to keep going?

Been ready!  Onward!  By the way, where are we off to, anyway?

Looks like it’s turned into a decent day again!  Want to head back toward Anchorage?  Take another shot at Wolverine Peak, or something else in that vicinity tomorrow?  Been a few days.  That hurricane ought to have died down by now.  Last chance!  Even if the weather stays good, won’t be too long before we really do need to leave Alaska.

Way back there again, SPHP?  You sure aren’t going to win any prizes for efficient route planning!  Whatever you want, though.  I’m easy!

That was true, enough!  As long as the Carolina Dog was on the road to adventure, she was never too particular about exactly which road that was.  After the late, late return from the Root Glacier last night, an easy day spent just getting into position for the next big thing sounded good.

9-4-19, 4:31 PM, Glenn Highway, MP 123.3 – Time to stretch those Dingo legs!  SPHP turned off the highway onto the road to Belanger Pass.  Syncline Mountain (5,471 ft.) was in sight, looking beautiful out in the clear!  Not smoky at all now like it had been when Lupe climbed it more than 2 weeks ago.  That had been a fun day!

Syncline Mountain is looking great! Want to climb it again, SPHP? Photo looks NW.

Unfortunately, early afternoon’s sunshine had disappeared.  Clouding up.  Maybe heading back W had been the wrong thing to do?  Wouldn’t be the first time.

W of Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.), the G6 ran into rain showers.  By the time Lupe was in Palmer, the showers were over and done with.  Merely partly cloudy here.  Still, maybe Palmer was far enough?  Why go clear to Anchorage, when the weather was iffy?  Just more wasted miles, if tomorrow was a no-go.  Besides, if it turned out to be a really nice day, maybe Loop could take a shot at Matanuska Peak (6,093 ft.) right here in Palmer?

9-5-19, 9:41 AM, Palmer, Huntley Road at the Lazy Mountain trailhead –

Doh!

What’s wrong, SPHP?

Nothing really, Looper.  Just that I should have looked at the map before paying the parking fee is all.  We’re at the wrong trailhead!  Could have saved ourselves a mile on the Morgan Horse trail if we had parked at the end of Smith Road instead.

One measly mile won’t make much difference, will it?

No, except that Matanuska Peak is a huge climb.  5,400 ft. of elevation gain without counting any dips!  We might not feel like doing this extra mile again on the way back.

Oh, piddle!  Come on, let’s go!

Trail map posted at the Lazy Mountain trailhead in Palmer.
Start of the Morgan Horse trail at the Lazy Mountain trailhead. Photo looks SE.

The Morgan Horse trail left the Lazy Mountain trailhead winding SE through a forest full of Devil’s club.  Minor ups and downs, but nothing serious.  Little or no net elevation change.  The morning was clear and bright, which had been key for the decision to stay here in Palmer to climb lofty Matanuska Peak (6,093 ft.), no trivial romp even by American Dingo standards.

Numbered brown wands appeared along the trail at regular intervals.  The numbers apparently corresponded to distance in feet from the trailhead.  The Carolina Dog saw few signs that horses ever actually used the Morgan Horse trail.  Early on, she caught sight of the lower SW side of Lazy Mountain (3,740 ft.), the last Alaskan peak she’d climbed in 2016.

Lower part of Lazy Mountain (Center) from the Morgan Horse trail. Photo looks NE.

The Morgan Horse trail was easy going.  Shady and comfortably cool!

Exploring the Morgan Horse trail.

After a mile, the trail turned S and became arrow straight.  Off to the W (R), private homes could be glimpsed through the trees.  Shortly after passing the 6,000 foot marker, Lupe came to an intersection with the McRoberts Creek trail, a nicely graveled jeep-sized road that went E/W.

The Morgan Horse trail continued S, but Looper turned E.  This junction must have been about 700 feet W of the Smith Road trailhead.  The first wand she came to after making the L turn onto the McRoberts Creek trail was numbered 800.

The McRoberts Creek trail was an uphill march, but the American Dingo didn’t stick with it very far at all.  Soon a Matanuska Peak sign appeared next to a single track trail veering off to the L.  The 1400 foot wand was in sight just a little beyond the sign.

Looper at the start of the Matanuska Peak trail. Photo looks ENE.

The Matanuska Peak trail climbed aggressively!  Gradually it became a little easier.  Lupe even came to a couple of tiny dips.  Overall, though, this first portion of the trail was just plain steep.  SPHP often paused to catch breath at the wands appearing at 200 foot intervals.

Approaching the 4,000 marker, the trail finally leveled out.  Still 3 miles due E, Matanuska Peak (6,093 ft.) was in sight for the first time.

Matanuska Peak (Center) from the 4,000 foot wand. Photo looks E.

A nice level stretch between the 4,000 and 4,800 foot wands provided a welcome respite.  The trail then climbed at an easier pace to about the 5,400 wand, where it steepened again.  The sky had been crystal clear early this morning, but clouds were now starting to form.  Felt humid, so that unfortunate trend might well continue.  Definitely a concern, but Lupe carried on.

After another long, steep climb, an opening appeared in the forest along a short level stretch near the 7,000 foot wand.  Lupe had a clear view of Bodenburg Butte (886 ft.) and the Matanuska River off to the SW.  The top of Pioneer Peak (6,398 ft.) was already in the clouds.

Bodenburg Butte (Center) looks pretty small from the Matanuska Peak trail! Pioneer Peak (L). Matanuska River (R). Photo looks SW.

The climb resumed.  Approaching the 8,400 foot marker, it looked like the trail was about to level out again.  It did, but only as far as the 8,600 wand, beyond which there was a dip quickly followed by yet another steep stretch.

Come on, SPHP! You can do it! Looks like the trail is about to level out.
Matanuska Peak (Center) from the dip beyond the 8,600 foot marker. Photo looks E.

Shortly after passing the 9,200 marker, the Matanuska Peak trail topped out.  Although Loopster was still far from Matanuska Peak, this was an intermediate high point as far as the trail was concerned.  From here, a gradual descent began.  The trail turned N along a ravine, then sharply SSE after crossing a tiny stream near the 10,800 wand.  Shortly before reaching the 11,200 wand, Lupe had a clear view of the valley to the SE ahead.

At the intermediate high point of the Matanuska Peak trail a little beyond the 9,200 foot marker. Peak 4199 (straight up from Lupe). Photo looks NE.
McRoberts Creek drainage (foreground), Pioneer Peak (Center), and Bodenburg Butte (R) from close to the 9,600 wand. Photo looks S.
Upper McRoberts Creek drainage (Center) and Matanuska Peak (L) from the 11,200 foot wand. Photo looks SE.

By now, the top of Matanuska Peak was in the clouds.  Not good, but there was still hope.  Plenty of blue sky in some directions, and most of the mountain remained out in the clear.  Progress was a lot faster as Lupe trotted along a gentle downhill slope.

This was gorgeous territory!  Fields of pink fireweed and deep green bushes dominated the broad slopes ahead.  Keeping watch over them were the light gray summits of a row of minor peaks.

Fields of fireweed decorated the slopes on this easy stretch of the Matanuska Peak trail. Peak 4199 (Center). Photo looks NE.

At the 11,900 foot wand, a very faint trail joined in from the N.  Perhaps it came from Lazy Mountain (3,740 ft.)?  No signage, except a second wand also at this same spot.  The second wand was numbered 14,000 and said “Trail” at the top.  5 minutes after passing these markers, Lupe actually could see Lazy Mountain back to the NW.

At the double wanded junction where an almost imperceptible trail came in from the N. Photo looks ENE.
Lazy Mountain (R in sunlight) comes into view. Photo looks NW.
Lazy Mountain with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.
A glance down the McRoberts Creek valley. Pioneer Peak (L) and Bodenburg Butte (Center) both only partially in view now. Matanuska River (R). Photo looks SW.

The super easy stretch was over.  Shortly after passing this junction, the Matanuska Peak trail bottomed out.  Lupe was going uphill again when she came to a couple of oddities.  The first was a 13,950 foot wand, also marked “Trail” at the top.  Perhaps the wand numbering system used earlier had ended?  Seemed strange that this next wand was a lower number than the one before it.

Ahead, an orange flag atop a metal tripod stuck up above the fireweed N of the trail.  Perhaps it would reveal something?

At the 13,950 wand. Orange flag (L). Matanuska Peak (R). Photo looks E.

Upon arriving at the orange flag, no significance could be discerned.  No trail junction, no signs, no structures, not even a pile of rocks.  Huh.  Mysterious.

Lazy Mountain (Center) from the mysterious orange flag. Photo looks NW.

Oh, well!  Lupe continued on.  At a 14,750 marker, the trail entered a thicket of tall bushes.  This was a low spot, some minor drainage.  The American Dingo was soon through the thicket, and climbing up onto a little ridge.

The scene ahead was incredible!  Brilliant fall colors painted the slopes.  Beyond them loomed the dark summit of Matanuska Peak.

Entering the thicket.
Up on the small ridge. Matanuska Peak (L of Center). Photo looks ESE.

The trail followed the little ridge steadily higher.  This ridge eventually vanished as it merged into a larger slope.  Lupe was heading SE toward a bench at the base of Matanuska Peak.

The trail heads for the flat bench seen above and to the L of Lupe at the base of the long slope leading up Matanuska Peak (L). Photo looks SE.

Other than a couple of dips crossing minor drainages, the trail climbed steadily.  The second dip came at the 18,980 foot wand.  At about 19,500, Lupe passed a ruined wreck of a picnic table.  Beyond wand 19,600, the word “Trail” once again started appearing at the top of all the wands Loop was coming to, with a corresponding jump in numbers.

At wand 22,200, a much larger dry wash was just ahead.  On the far (SE) side of this ravine was a ridge connected to the towering slope leading to the summit of Matanuska Peak.  The trail went down into the ravine, climbed a little way within it, then wound up a short steep slope on the other side to reach the ridgeline.

Looking back from the 22,200 wand. Lazy Mountain (Center). Photo looks NW.
Approaching the 3rd dry wash. This one was by far the largest. Photo looks SE.
Down in the big ravine. Photo looks ENE.
Heading up the dry wash. The trail is about to climb up onto the ridge on the R. Photo looks ENE.

Shortly after climbing out of the ravine, Lupe came to a pile of white rocks not far from wand 22800.  She was now about as high as Lazy Mountain. This seemed like a good spot for a longer breather.

Lazy Mountain (Center) from close to wand 22,800. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Clouds had been building and spreading all day.  However, toward the end of SPHP’s rest break, they suddenly shifted.  The top of Matanuska Peak was in sight for the first time in quite a while!  A good omen!

Matanuska Peak (L) emerges from the clouds. Photo looks ENE.
Summit of Matanuska Peak. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Heh.  A brief omen.  Within minutes, the summit vanished again.  In fact, much of the mountain disappeared as an even larger cloud swept in and devoured most of Matanuska Peak one gulp.  Bad omen?  Yeah, sort of.  The weather still didn’t seem threatening, but if Lupe did manage to get all the way to the top of Matanuska Peak, it would sure be nice to be able to see something.

At the moment, Lupe wasn’t the least bit worried about that.  High up on the far side of the big ravine she had just crossed, Loop saw something just below the fog of even more interest than the summit.  Dahl sheep!  2 of them.  No, make that 3!  The Carolina Dog whined excitedly!  These sheep were way too far away for any interaction.  Nevertheless, Lupe kept a keen eye on them as she resumed her ascent.

Gazing at Dahl sheep way up on the far (L) side of the ravine. Photo looks ENE.
The fascinating Dahl sheep with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe hadn’t seen anyone else for a long time now, but suddenly a voice was heard.  Someone who had the lungs to chat on a cell phone while climbing mountains was coming up!  A young man in superb condition soon overtook SPHP.  He paused from his busy social life long enough for a brief chat, then disappeared into the fog now only slightly higher, still powering his way up the mountain.

By the time the young man had overtaken SPHP, a steepish short climb after the rest break had brought the American Dingo to a gently sloping bench, the last relatively flat area Lupe would come to.  She had already come a long way, gaining over 3,000 feet of elevation in the process.  Yet the real climb was just about to begin.  One more mile, and in that mile, another 2,300 vertical feet to go!  Perhaps it was a good thing clouds cloaked the enormous, steep slope ahead.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

And with that, Lupe started up into the fog.

On the relatively level bench at the bottom of Matanuska Peak’s SW slope. Photo looks ESE.
Part of the upper end of the McRoberts Creek drainage. The trail comes up along the R edge of this photo. Photo looks W.
Heading up into the fog. Photo looks E.

The trail was good.  Packed dirt with some scree.  Looper climbed and climbed.  Already tired, SPHP was super slow.  Many breathers to gasp for air.  Vegetation faded.  Fewer wands.  The endless slope got rockier and rockier.  In the fog it was impossible to tell how much farther Loop still had to go, or how much progress she had made.

Waiting for slow poke.

The slope was almost featureless.  No big rock formations or cliffs.  The angle of attack was gradually getting even steeper, but without readily discernable inflection points.  Staring back down into the foggy abyss was a bit unnerving.  Matanuska Peak was so steep!

Gritty sand disappeared.  The trail became nothing but rocks covered with black lichens.  Then the trail itself all but disappeared.  SPHP kept losing it.  There seemed to be many trails.  Rocks that had been disturbed were lighter colored, and showed that at least a few others had come this way before.  Wands were becoming scarce.  Now and then Lupe saw unmarked wooden posts.

Approaching a couple of rare minor rock formations. Photo looks NE.
Getting rockier.
The rocks kept getting bigger.

SPHP was surprised when the young man reappeared.  It had been so long since Lupe had seen him, SPHP had assumed he must have taken a different route down.  Sven had made it to the top.  How much farther?  Oh, not far, 0.5 mile or so.  Another 0.5 mile of this?  That was a long, long way!  Sven offered encouragement.  Only another 45 minutes at your current pace.

Sven was super friendly.  He stayed and chatted cheerily much longer this time.  Sven even suggested climbing another mountain together.  Why not?  Contact information exchanged, off he went.

45 minutes later, Lupe was still climbing.

The giant scramble continued, but things were starting to change.  The broad slope Loopster was on was getting skinnier.  The fog brightened.  Clouds developed a bluish tinge.  Suddenly, blue sky!

A bit of blue sky appears!

Soon it was possible to see!  No sign of the top yet, but it couldn’t be too much farther, could it?  Lupe reached a 29,200 wand.

At the 29,200 wand, the highest numbered wand Lupe came to during her ascent. Photo looks NE.

The next wand said 27,400.  Sheesh!  The scramble continued.  A sense of excitement was growing.  Big clouds in lots of directions, but it was easy enough to see that the Carolina Dog really was getting close.  Talus slopes were narrowing fast.

At the last wand. Photo looks NNE.

No more wands.  27,400 was the last one.  Suddenly it was over!  Sure, the slope Lupe had come up was plenty steep, but the other side of Matanuska Peak was a precipice!  A gray, craggy finger pointed N into thin air.

The craggy finger toward the lower W end of the summit region. Photo looks W.

Lupe passed an American flag wrapped around a horizontal aluminum pole.  She had come up near the W end of a small summit region.  The collection of boulders at the highest point off to the E was already close at paw.  The tiptop boulder was an airy spot, but the American Dingo easily leapt up onto it.

No cairn, no registry. Lupe found only this American flag up on Matanuska Peak. Photo looks NW.
On the true summit of Matanuska Peak. Photo looks SE.

9-5-19, 5:42 PM, true summit of Matanuska Peak – Blue sky, but lots of clouds, too.  From the summit boulder, Lupe had stunning cloud-broken views off to the N and E.  Virtually nothing could be seen to the S or W, except for a towering cloud threatening to engulf the whole mountain.  At unpredictable intervals, fog swirled by on a light, variable breeze.

Not at all stormy, but the early evening sunshine Lupe was enjoying might end at any moment.  Better take a good look around, while the Luck of the Dingo held!

Wolverine Creek valley (L). A spire along Matanuska Peak’s E ridge is visible above Lupe’s back. Photo looks ENE.
The E ridge spire (Center). Photo looks ENE with help from the telephoto lens.
Matanuska Peak’s E ridge eventually curves N. This lower portion is the light-colored ridge in the foreground. The Wolverine Creek valley lies beyond it. Photo looks N.
A momentary glimpse down Matanuska Peak’s S ridge (L). Photo looks S.

Hideous cliffs were just to the N.  Spires of dark rock were only a little lower along a short NW ridge.  The snaky E ridge was thin and jagged.  Not the scariest summit Looper had ever been to, but SPHP nervously cautioned the Carolina Dog not to move around too much.  A small patch of dirt provided a comfortable spot where she could relax without being on the verge of some precipice.

Far to the ESE, a series of higher peaks strung out along a distant ridge was always at least partially enveloped by clouds.  Sometimes glaciers were visible over that way.  SPHP kept hoping for that ridge to clear, but it never did.

Frontier Peak (6,250 ft.) (R of Center). Glaciers were visible now and then along the distant ridge on the L. Photo looks SE from Matanuska Peak’s true summit.
Zoomed in a bit on the high ridges toward the ESE.
As the clouds shift, the glaciers come into view, especially toward the L. Photo looks ESE with even more help from the telephoto lens.

At first, Lupe was often in sunshine.  That changed.  Increasingly, her time was spent in shadow, but Matanuska Peak was so grand that all thoughts of leaving were banished as long as possible.

Bathed in sunshine at the true summit. Photo looks SE.
In shadow now. Photo looks E.

Hoped for glimpses of Lazy Mountain, Palmer, the Matanuska River and other points to the W or SW never materialized.  A couple of times it looked like they might, but those hopes were always quickly dashed.

A temporarily promising moment. Photo looks WSW.

35 minutes after Lupe reached the summit, clouds came boiling up from the SW.  Even the views to the N and E were closing off.  The Luck of the Dingo was running out.

A glimpse of the distant Talkeetna Range as the clouds close in. Photo looks NNW.

Matanuska Peak had treated Lupe kindly.  The Carolina Dog had been fortunate to see anything other than fog up here.  Getting late, anyway.  It was a long way back, and SPHP would be every bit as slow during the tremendously steep descent as coming up had been.

As the clouds swept in, Lupe returned to the boulder at the true summit.  Her final moments atop mighty Matanuska Peak (6,093 ft.) had arrived.

Gazing down the SW slope (R) Lupe would soon have to descend. Photo looks S.
A pensive American Dingo atop Matanuska Peak. It’s gonna take SPHP forever to get off this monster!
Last look to the ESE.

45 minutes at the summit was all she wrote.  Lupe began her descent.  Down, down through the fog!  Excruciatingly slow, but it all went well.  By the time Loopster emerged from the murk, she was already close to the flattish bench at the bottom end of the SW slope.  The sun had stayed up only long enough to say good-bye.  Lupe didn’t even get to the big dry wash before it was gone.

Dusk deepened while traveling the little ridge.  A few stars appeared.  For a while, lights of Palmer could be seen.  Then it was into the black forest.  Still miles to go.  SPHP sang to ward off bears or moose.  Proven 100% effective yet again!  Exhaustion.  Sore paws.  The dreary extra mile long hobble along the Morgan Horse trail finally came to an end.

Matanuska Peak!  What a stupendous day!  (9-6-19, 12:34 AM)

Matanuska Peak, Chugach Mountains, Alaska 9-5-19

Links:

Next Adventure                            Prior Adventure

Lazy Mountain, Chugach Range, Alaska 9-1-16

Bodenburg Butte near Palmer, Alaska 9-1-17

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