Peakbagging – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 255: Missouri Buttes & A Visit With Dave Covill, Lead Director of the Highpointers Foundation (5-27-20)

5-25-20 – Lucky Dingo! You’ve been granted a reprieve.

I have? That’s good! A reprieve from what, SPHP?

All this endless boredom laying around. Apparently you’ve served your 6 month sentence. Adventure is heading your way! Remember Dave Covill and your Mighty Dingo Missile Launch?

How could I ever forget that? I was sore for a week!

You’re lucky you weren’t crippled for life! Anyway, Dave is coming up from Colorado in a couple of days to climb Devils Tower (5,112 ft.). Says here he might have time to meet with us.

Devils Tower! That’s straight up and down! No one can climb that!

Actually, it is possible with the right equipment and skills, Loop.

Or a helicopter!

Hah! Yeah, that’s the only way we’d ever get up there! Don’t worry, we aren’t going to try to keep up with Dave. Last year his first little starter peak was Aconcagua (22,841 ft.), the high point of South America!

5-27-20, 12:45 PM, Wyoming Hwy 24 – We’re almost there, SPHP! There’s Devils Tower and the Missouri Buttes (5,374 ft.), too. Can we stop and take a look from here?

Sure thing, Loopster!

*Great to be back in Wyoming! There’s **Devils Tower** (R), and **Missouri Buttes** (L).* Photo looks NNW.

At 1:02 PM, Lupe arrived at the Devils Tower Trading Post. Dave was supposed to meet her here once he finished his final training session with his guide.

*Dave won’t be free for another hour yet, so let’s have a look around!* Photo looks WNW.

*Mr. Covill’s been training on **Devils Tower** yesterday afternoon, and again today. Maybe he’s somewhere on the lower part right now?*

*I don’t see him, though. Maybe he’s already down, or on another side of the mountain?*

*The entrance to America’s first national monument is right next to the trading post and the **Devils Tower KOA campground**.*

*This sign at the KOA depicts an **Indian legend** about how Devils Tower came to be.*

Dave finally showed up a little before 2:30 PM. He was pleased with how quickly he had bonded with his guide, and the quality of training. Despite Dave’s decades of peakbagging experience, Devils Tower was a tough and unique challenge! One of his knees was scraped up and swollen, but he still intended to climb the mountain tomorrow.

**Dave Covill**, Lead Director of the Highpointers Foundation with Loop at the trading post.

Dave had a few hours to burn with Lupe, so what to do? Two options! First was a visit to Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.), the high point of the Bear Lodge mountains. Warren Peaks was easy. A USFS road went all the way to the fire lookout tower on top, so it was just a drive up. The other option was to climb Missouri Buttes, which would take a few hours.

After a very early start on the long drive up from Colorado yesterday morning followed by two rigorous training sessions on Devils Tower, and faced with the prospect of climbing it tomorrow, Warren Peaks sounded like the sensible choice to Dave. He jumped in the G6 with Lupe and SPHP.

On the way to Warren Peaks, SPHP naturally asked about Dave’s trip to Aconcagua, and also his return to Alaska in August, 2019 for a second attempt on Mount Isto (8,976 ft.), the high point of the Brooks Range. Both were gripping tales.

(Dave’s Aconcagua trip report, Greg Slayden’s Mount Isto trip report. Their mutual friend Edward Earl had drowned in the Jago River during a first trip to Mount Isto in June, 2015.)

Shortly before reaching Warren Peaks, SPHP parked on a hill expecting a view of Devils Tower, but only the Missouri Buttes were in sight.

Warren Peaks area. **Missouri Buttes** (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks NW.

It was surprisingly cool up at Warren Peaks. A massive cloud hung over the region hiding the view of the Black Hills way over in South Dakota. Dave climbed the fire lookout tower as far as it was possible to go, but access to the platform around the ranger’s quarters was locked. Not to be outdone, even Lupe climbed the tower, which she doesn’t normally like to do.

Dave and Lupe near the **Warren Peaks lookout tower**.

The Black Hills of South Dakota were hidden by a cloud. Photo looks SE.

During the return to Devils Tower, SPHP took the paved roads, a longer route, so Dave could get a look at the town of Sundance.

Shhh! Quit talking, SPHP.

Hmm? What, Loop?

Be quiet! You’ve put Dave to sleep.

Oh! Umm, yeah. I often have that affect on people, don’t I, Looper? Guess I’ve got quite a soothing personality.

I suppose that’s one way of putting it.

Back at Devils Tower, Dave introduced Lupe and SPHP to a couple of climbing guides he’d met who happened to come along, then he had other business to attend to. The first of 3 more friends that were going to climb Devils Tower with him was due in this evening. So that was it for now, although Dave said he might be free again in a couple of days.

5-27-20, 4:50 PM, Devils Tower Trading Post –

Fun seeing Dave again, wasn’t it, SPHP?

Sure was, Loopster. Mighty nice of him to want to include us in his plans.

So what now? Are we just going home?

Oh, I don’t know. Not even 5:00 PM yet. We still have permission from the Nuckolls to climb Missouri Buttes. I think there’s still time. Want to do that?

Absolutely! Let’s go for it!

From Devils Tower, the entrance to the Nuckolls Ranch was a few miles N on Hwy 24, then another mile N and 4 miles W on Barlow Canyon Road.

At the turn off Barlow Canyon Road into the **Nuckolls Ranch**. Photo looks SW.

Of the 4 main Missouri Buttes, the 2 highest are on the privately owned Nuckolls Ranch.

As instructed while getting permission from Will Nuckolls to enter the ranch in order to visit the Missouri Buttes, SPHP drove S past 2 homes and a number of outbuildings, ultimately parking the G6 beyond them nearly 1.5 miles S of Barlow Canyon Road.

A pickup truck full of Nuckolls driven by family matriarch, Thea Nuckolls, appeared within minutes. Lupe was several hours later than SPHP had told them to expect her, but that wasn’t a problem. A friendly conversation, and they were on their way.

Lupe was too! She struck out for the Missouri Buttes following a dirt ranch road S.

*Come on! The NE Missouri Butte is only 1.5 miles away!*

The road curved slightly to the R as it went up a mostly forested valley. Lupe quickly came to an old water tank. The main road curved sharply R (NW) here, but the Carolina Dog continued SSW past the water tank a short distance into a more open part of the valley. Within a few hundred feet, the valley branched. Loop took the R (SW) branch instead of going straight ahead.

*We’re not far beyond the water tank now. The valley divides here. We’ll take the branch to the R.* Photo looks SSW.

After just a few minutes, Lupe turned S entering the forest and starting to climb. The remnant of a road curved L around to a clearing on the E side of hill. This looked like a good spot to leave the valley. A quick romp up the hill got Looper up to a narrow, gently rounded ridge.

Following the ridgeline SSW, the Carolina Dog continued to gain a little elevation. However, that didn’t last long. The ridge soon leveled out as it widened out. Lupe passed through an open forest. A few minutes got her beyond the pines. She was now on a broad plateau with a fenced field just ahead. Well beyond the field stood the NW Missouri Butte (5,374 ft.), the highest one of all.

*Thar she blows! That’s the **NW Missouri Butte**, our primary objective!* Photo looks SW.

Without entering the big field, Lupe followed the fence line L (SE). Along the way she went through another section of open woods. Almost at the end, she crossed a little ravine before ducking under a fence. Loopster wasn’t far at all from the NE Missouri Butte (5,212 ft.) now.

Approaching the **NE Missouri Butte**. Photo looks S.

Since it was getting late in the day, and climbing the higher NW butte was top priority, Lupe turned WSW heading for it instead.

Heading for the **NW butte** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Lupe soon reached a stock pond at the base of the NW Missouri Butte. Looking at the mountain from here, a large patch of orange lichens was visible near the top of the N face.

By the stock pond just N of the NW Missouri Butte. Photo looks W.

**NW Missouri Butte** from the pond. Photo looks S.

The American Dingo had been here once before. In November 2016, back when J.W. Nuckolls was still alive, he had told SPHP the best way up the mountain.

The gist of it is this: Climb the talus slope to the base of the rock wall on the N face just below the orange lichens. From there go L (E) following a steep ramp of vegetation higher. At the top of the ramp, a short trail wraps around to the E side where it goes 40 or 50 feet to a spot where it’s easy to clamber up onto the lower E end of the summit. A short walk through junipers and cacti goes past a small tower to the true summit near the W end.

**N face of the NW Butte**. Best route – get as close to the orange lichens (Center) as possible, then follow the vegetation steeply up to the L. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

The **NE Missouri Butte** (R) from above the pond. Photo looks E.

Part of the talus could be avoided by staying to the NW close to a fence line, so that’s what Lupe did. As it turned out, she could have avoided even more talus if she’d actually crossed the fence. Not really a big deal, though, either way. Soon the Carolina Dog was on the rocks.

*Here we go! We’ll head toward the L from here, climbing all the way.* Photo looks SSE.

Even though SPHP knew the best route, Lupe didn’t go quite far enough L (E) to come up below the orange lichens. She wound up in a wide NW chute that was so steep SPHP almost felt compelled to retreat to correct the error.

In a steep, rocky chute on the NW flank. That’s the summit just above! Photo looks S.

Certainly not the best route, but the super steep part at the uppermost end of the chute went only 10 or 15 feet higher. Without assistance, the Carolina Dog quickly scrambled to the top. She’d come up right at the true summit rock!

*Whew! That last bit was a little scary!* Lupe at the **true summit** of the **highest (NW) Missouri Butte**. Photo looks NE.

A Missouri Butte survey benchmark No. 2 was visible along the W edge 10 or 15 feet from the true summit.

The survey benchmark is the bright spot near the big rock at far L. Photo looks NW.

**Survey benchmark No. 2**. No attempt was made to find any others.

Loopster at the **true summit of Missouri Buttes**. Photo looks NW.

5-27-20, 6:54 PM, 57ºF – Such a gorgeous evening! The views from the NW Missouri Butte were tremendous. Off to the W, Lupe could see a huge expanse of flatlands dotted with ponds gleaming in the sunlight. To the N were pine-covered ridges, but nothing nearly as high as where the Carolina Dog was now.

Just as in 2016, the summit region harbored lots of cacti. Lupe was aware of it, and didn’t want to move around much. Between all the rocks and cacti, she had a hard time finding a comfortable spot, but did finally settle down for a while. A light breeze blew out of the W. Loop and SPHP shared several small chocolate coconut granola bars.

Taking it easy on **Missouri Buttes**. Photo looks NNW.

A pleasant half hour drifted by. Unfortunately, the sun wouldn’t be up an awful lot longer. Since Loopster still hoped to climb the NE Missouri Butte, it was time to get going. Lupe returned briefly to the summit rock.

*A shame Dave was too tired to join us here. I think he might have liked **Missouri Buttes**!* Final moments on the summit rock. Photo looks ENE.

The NW butte’s summit region was a fairly large area. Juniper bushes hid the views to the E and S from the true summit. Before departing, it would be fun to see the two lowest Missouri Buttes and Missouri Butte Lake, which were all toward the S. Due to all the cacti, SPHP carried Lupe more than 100 feet to the lower SW edge.

**Missouri Butte Lake**. Photo looks SW.

The 2 lowest Missouri Buttes. **SE Butte** (L) and **SW Butte** (R). Both are over 5,000 ft. Photo looks S.

Loop near the SW end of the summit region. Photo looks NNE back toward the top.

After a good look around from the SW end, SPHP subsequently had to cart the American Dingo back up to the summit.

Enjoying a few more moments at the top while SPHP takes a breather. Photo looks ENE.

No more dilly-dallying! SPHP lugged the Carolina Dog to the E end of the summit. This was even farther, a good 200 or 300 feet. The view to the SE was certainly worth it! Devils Tower (5,112 ft.) was in sight. Lupe got to see the top of Devils Tower before Dave Covill did, albeit from more than 3.5 miles away.

The NE Missouri Butte (5,212 ft.) was also in sight much closer at paw. Might still be time enough to climb it, if Loop hurried!

**NE Missouri Butte** (L) and **Devil’s Tower** (R). Photo looks ESE.

**Devils Tower**. The high point on the horizon is **Warren Peaks**. Photo looks SE.

Lupe could see the top of **Devils Tower** without having to scale that scary overgrown tree stump!

*Lovely, but we better get with it and hurry over to the **NE Missouri Butte**!* Photo looks E.

During the descent, Lupe took the slightly longer, but much safer route originally recommended by Mr. Nuckolls.

Loopster where the faint trail reaches the E end of the summit region. The trail extends toward the camera. Photo looks S.

The N face from the pass. Photo looks WSW.

Coming down the steep ramp. Photo looks ENE.

Descending the talus slope. Photo looks NE.

It took a while to get down. By the time Lupe was approaching the W end of the NE Missouri Butte, the sun was on the horizon.

Approaching the **NE Missouri Butte**. Photo looks E.

Looking back. The **NW Missouri Butte** at sunset. Photo looks W.

The climb up the W end of the NE Butte was fairly steep, but nothing like the NW Butte had been. Just a matter of how quickly SPHP could do it. Once the terrain began to level out, Lupe roamed E in open forest. The true summit was one of a couple of good-sized rocks near the far E end. Light was fading fast by the time the Carolina Dog got there.

SPHP was glad to see that the old thin cross that had been here during Lupe’s first ascent more than 3.5 years ago was still standing. Of course, the big attraction was the view of Devils Tower, which was 0.5 mile closer here than back at the NW Butte.

At the first of the two highest rocks. Photo looks SSE.

*We’re 0.5 mile closer to **Devils Tower** (L) here.* Photo looks SSE.

*Sweet view of **Devils Tower!** Hope you’ve enjoyed this tour of the Missouri Buttes!*

Sadly, 5 minutes at the top was it. Getting pretty dark now. Lupe left the summit of the NE Butte. The flashlight had to come out before she was even completely down off the mountain. As stars began twinkling in the evening sky, Loop and SPHP headed back to the G6. Between seeing Dave Covill and visiting the Missouri Buttes, it had been a memorable day! (10:06 PM, 44ºF)

5-31-20, 8:52 AM, 68ºF, Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park, SD – Turned out the fun Dave Covill had initiated wasn’t over! After a successful ascent of Devils Tower with 3 of his buddies, Dave came down to the Black Hills in South Dakota. As Lead Director of the Highpointers Foundation, he had business to attend to inspecting the installation of a beautiful bench along Trail No. 4 in the the Black Elk Wilderness. Dave kindly invited Lupe and SPHP to come along.

The plan was to go from Sylvan Lake up Trail No. 9, which went past an older, similar bench also provided by the Highpointers Foundation. From there Lupe would get to summit Black Elk Peak (7,242 ft.) before making a loop back along Trail No. 4.

Dave Covill and Lupe at the first bench along Trail No. 9.

**Black Elk Peak** (R of Center in the distance) from the viewpoint close to the first bench. Photo looks NE.

At the only creek crossing along Trail No. 9.

Everything went as planned. An hour later Lupe was approaching the old fire lookout tower on Black Elk Peak, the highest mountain in South Dakota. The Highpointers Foundation had helped pay for restoration work, including new windows in the top of the tower.

*Practically to the top now! Those are the **Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.)** (L) and **Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.)** is the big knob seen just L of my head.* Photo looks SSW.

Approaching the old fire lookout tower on **Black Elk Peak**. Photo looks N.

On the rock wall around the lookout tower’s viewing deck. Photo looks W.

Dave maintained that the highest natural point on Black Elk Peak was just outside the N wall of the lookout tower. Since the Highpointers Foundation is dedicated to education, support, and conservation of the highest point in each of the 50 U.S. states, Lupe figured Dave ought to know. The Carolina Dog made the little scramble up to it.

Looper at South Dakota’s natural high point.

Black Elk Peak wasn’t crowded, but it was busy. A nice 25 minute stay, and it was time to let others enjoy a bit more serenity. Besides, Dave needed to get over to that new bench along Trail No. 4!

*As South Dakota’s high point, **Black Elk Peak** is one of the most popular hikes in the Black Hills! Guess we’re about to head out again now.* Photo looks SSE.

Heading down the metal stairway that used to freak Lupe out. After 9 ascents, she’s fine with it now. Photo looks SE.

Trail No. 4 passes between the Cathedral Spires (6840 ft.) and Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.). At a point with a view of Black Elk Peak a mile to the N, Lupe came to the beautiful new bench donated by the Maura and Karen Raffensperger families and the Highpointers Foundation in memory of Grace Underwood Raffensperger. Many years ago, Grace had homesteaded in the Black Hills.

Lupe tests out the lovely new **Grace Raffensperger bench** along Trail No. 4.

*The **Cathedral Spires** are this close to the Raffensperger bench!*

5-31-20, 1:12 PM, 80ºF, Sylvan Lake – Back at Sylvan Lake, it was time for good-byes. Dave had to hit the road home to Colorado, and was soon on his way.

Last day of May already! Thanks to Dave’s visit, Lupe had finally gotten her 2020 mountain adventures off to a good, but much delayed start. With June just hours away, the Carolina Dog once again had high hopes for a spectacular Summer of 2020!

With **Dave Covill** at the **Raffensperger bench** along Trail No. 4, **Black Elk Wilderness**, South Dakota 5-31-20

**Dave Covill** (L) on **Devils Tower** 5-29-20 with friends **Justin Schaffer** (L), **Stephen Henry** (R) in back, and **Sheryl Lampert** in front. Guide **Lansdon Alcorn** (far R). Missouri Buttes in the distance.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Adventure

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 181 – Missouri Buttes, WY (11-6-16)

Highpointers Foundation

Nuckolls Ranch on Facebook

Devils Tower National Monument

The Legend of Devils Tower

Climb Devils Tower! – Devils Tower Lodge

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Montana Mountain, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-11-19)

Days 37 & 38 of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

9-10-19, 7:55 AM, 37ºF – Good-bye Donjek River! Lupe was heading S. Stars last night, but no sign of the northern lights. A beautiful, clear early fall morning today with no sign of yesterday’s smoky haze.

For a travel day, the morning got off to an exciting start. A grizzly bear! Now that was something worth barking about! The Carolina Dog gave it her foaming-at-the-mouth best.

Grizzly along the Alaska Highway 4 or 5 miles NW of Burwash Landing.

A little later, Lupe stopped at a favorite pullout at the S end of Kluane Lake, the largest lake entirely within the Yukon Territory. The water level still seemed to be dropping. The Slims River, once the lake’s main water source had largely dried up back in May, 2016, when most of its flow had been naturally diverted into the Kaskawulsh River due to the retreat of the Kaskawulsh Glacier.

At the S end of 50 mile long **Kluane Lake**. Photo looks W.

**Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.)** (R of Center), which Lupe climbed back in 2017, and **Mount Wallace (7,700 ft.)** (R). Photo looks NW.

On the way to Haines Junction, several more stops were made to enjoy the beauty of the St. Elias Mountains.

Possibly **Mount Cairnes (9,186 ft.)** (L). Photo looks SW.

**St. Elias Mountains** from the Alaska Highway. Photo looks SW.

Miles rolled by. Hours passed away. By evening, the American Dingo was at the Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.) trailhead along the S Klondike Highway. Nearly a month since Lupe had ventured up Mount Lorne now. Already seemed like a long time ago.

Loop enjoyed two trips along the early easy portion of the trail. The first, a 0.5 mile romp looking for squirrels a little before sunset. Next, a second, longer foray at dusk as gloom spread through the forest. The Carolina Dog waded in Bear Creek, and spotted a deer wandering in the woods. Fun times! But the real action wouldn’t start until tomorrow.

On the Mount Loren trail near sunset. Photo looks W.

9-11-19, 9:39 AM, 34ºF, S of Carcross, on Montana Mountain Road – Close enough! The G6 had done well to get this far. SPHP parked at a wide spot 200 yards beyond the last building. Lupe hopped out. The road wasn’t bad here, but had been stony, rough, and often steep most of the 4+ miles to this point. Somewhere not too far ahead, it was supposed to become impassable.

4+ miles up Montana Mountain Road a little beyond the last building (Center). **Caribou Mountain (6,400 ft.)** (R). Photo looks N.

Montana Mountain (7,233 ft.) located just S of Carcross is known for its awesome mountain biking trails. The Mountain Hero trail, designated as one of only 6 “epic” trails in Canada by the International Mountain Biking Association (IMBA), is especially popular. On the way up, SPHP had stopped for a quick look at posted maps of the trail system.

Montana Mountain lower trail map. S is up on this map.

Of course, Loop wasn’t here for the mountain biking. If possible, she was going to climb Montana Mountain. Maybe even Brute Mountain (7,000 ft.) or Mount Matheson (7,200 ft.), too, if she had time and they looked viable. As soon as SPHP was ready, Lupe started up the road.

Setting out for Montana Mountain. Photo looks SSW.

Within 10 minutes, the hills and ridges of Brute Mountain were already coming into sight. Another 5 minutes brought Looper to a spot where a small stream passed through a culvert. Half of the road had eroded into the V-shaped gully down by the stream. The G6 might have made it past this point, but SPHP never would have chanced it.

The road trek was a steady uphill grind. 20 minutes past the washout, Lupe reached an intersection with the McDonald Creek trail. Beyond this junction, the road curved SW. A small black bear was 100 yards ahead! However, by the time Lupe got there, the bear had vanished among the bushes.

At the **McDonald Creek trail** junction.

Before long Montana Mountain Road began curving back to the S again. From this bend, Lupe could see a sliver of Bennett Lake off to the W.

**Bennett Lake** (Center). **Peak 4260** (far R). **Mount Gray (6,083 ft.)** beyond it. Photo looks WNW.

Peering around the bend. The hills and ridges are all part of **Brute Mountain** which sports several areas within 7,000 ft. contours. Photo looks SW.

Continuing around the bend, Lupe’s ultimate destination, the summit of Montana Mountain (7,233 ft.), came into sight for the first time. Looked like there was a skiff of new snow up there!

**Montana Mountain** (L) comes into view! Photo looks S.

The road kept curving. Within a few minutes of turning SE, Lupe came to a landslide where the entire roadbed had collapsed into a deep valley. So much for Montana Mountain Road!

At the start of the landslide, the effective end of Montana Mountain Road as far as any vehicles are concerned. Photo looks NW.

Looking down the collapsed slope. **Brute Mountain** in the distance. Photo looks SW.

A narrow, single track trail continued on from here. At first the path stayed on relatively firm terrain, but soon Lupe was traversing the worst of the landslide on loose sand and small rocks.

Near the end. **Mount Gray** (L). Photo looks NW.

Hundreds of feet of road were completely gone. Looper eventually did get past the landslide to where the road picked up again heading due S. The American Dingo was already close to treeline, but bushes remained abundant. Long abandoned, what remained of Montana Mountain Road was rough and partially overgrown.

Before long, the road appeared to dead-end. Yet, Lupe could still see it continuing S only modestly higher up the slope to the SE. A short trek on open ground following a faint path got her up there. Looking back, SPHP was under the impression that perhaps a thickly overgrown switchback had been missed. This was almost certainly all part of the same road.

Whatever! Lupe kept going. The road kept climbing. After a while, a better jeep trail came in from over the ridge to the NE.

Beyond the landslide, looking up the drainage separating the road Lupe was on from **Brute Mountain**. Photo looks SW.

At the junction with the better jeep trail. **Caribou Mountain** (L), **Mount Lansdowne (5,882 ft.)** (Center), and **Nares Mountain (5,833 ft.)** (R). Photo looks NNE.

Following the jeep trail, Lupe soon came to a fork. One branch angled off toward the SW, descending into the valley between here and Brute Mountain. Seeing that this route went clear down to a creek ford before winding its way up lower slopes of Brute Mountain, Looper continued straight S instead. Another km on the jeep trail brought the Carolina Dog to the saddle between Brute Mountain and Sugarloaf Hill (6,106 ft.).

This saddle was a major intersection. Roads came in from all directions. A large post stuck up from a cairn. Beyond this cairn was a landscape incapable of supporting anything more than minimal tundra vegetation. Not a single tree or shrub dotted the barren expanse between here and Montana Mountain.

The barren expanse between the saddle and **Montana Mountain** (R). Photo looks SE.

A good 5 km from the G6 now, Loopster was ready for a break. While she enjoyed water and Taste of the Wild, SPHP surveyed the situation. A tiny creek swept down the wide open basin between here and Montana Mountain. Off to the SW, a road led gradually higher along lower slopes of Brute Mountain. That appeared to be the way to go.

Brute Mountain (7,000 ft.) didn’t look like a difficult climb from here, although it was hard to tell which of several high points might actually be the true summit. Maybe Loop really could climb it later in the day?

Eh. Too soon to think about that! Montana Mountain was the American Dingo’s main objective. She appeared to have 2 choices on how to get there. The first, and most direct route, was to head up to an opening just W of the summit. The second, and likely easiest approach, was to go up the NW end of a big ridge W of that region. Following the ridge SE ought to get Lupe to high ground providing summit access.

Relaxing in the saddle. Lupe would take the road seen heading off to the L (SW) on her way to Montana Mountain. The **three highest points of Brute Mountain** are visible from here. Looked like maybe the middle one was highest, but hard to say for sure. Photo looks W.

**Montana Mountain summit** (L, with snow). Two possible routes: (1) the saddle at Center, or (2) the big ridge on the R. Photo looks S.

Once underway again, Lupe took a road heading SW along the base of Brute Mountain, gaining only a little elevation before reaching another fork. At this fork she went L (SE) on a road that lost all the elevation she had just gained.

At the fork. From here Lupe took the road seen winding toward the gap at Center. Photo looks SE.

The road began to climb again, and a choice soon had to be made. Which way? SPHP was undecided. Cutting across the tundra up to the end of the big ridge, which wasn’t too far away, seemed like maybe the thing to do.

Off road now, heading for the NW (R) end of the big ridge. Photo looks S.

Some nut who had gotten a bulldozer in his Christmas stocking had been all over the place, scarring up the whole region. Lupe reached a spot where she could see roads going toward both the end of the big ridge, and the gap just W of Montana Mountain.

The road heading straight for the gap (R) was tempting. So direct! **Montana Mountain** (straight up from Lupe). Photo looks SE.

Option 2: Follow the big ridge higher. Photo looks SW.

Looking back. **Sugarloaf Hill** (R) beyond Lupe. The saddle with the cairn and post that Lupe had come up from is at the base of the hill in the foreground on the L. **Nares Mountain** (L) pokes up from behind this same hill. Photo looks NE.

A snowfield immediately below the gap looked suspiciously shiny even from a distance, but the temptation to try to save a bunch of time and distance proved to be too much. SPHP led Lupe toward the gap.

The road going that way started out merely rocky. From there it ramped up to very rocky, then extremely rocky, finally becoming a jagged jumble of huge stones even the bulldozer must had trouble with. Eventually all signs that a bulldozer might have made it this far vanished. Picking a way through all this rubble was distressingly time-consuming, but did let Loop get a look at a good-sized tarn nestled below a steep ridge to the E.

A lovely tarn comes into view on the way to the gap. Photo looks E.

The “road” gets a bit rough approaching the gap (Center). Photo looks SE.

If the snowfield had actually been snow, Lupe wouldn’t have had much of a problem reaching the territory above the gap. However, she arrived at the edge of the snowfield to find not snow, but a thin, crystalline mini-glacier instead. Ice! Rocks were embedded in the ice, but in insufficient quantities to provide reliable support all the way up to the gap.

Close up of the crystalline ice of the mini-glacier.

The ice was hard, damp, and very slick. Even though the gap wasn’t all that far away now, any attempt to cross the steep mini-glacier looked like an invitation to an uncontrolled rocket slide to be dashed upon rocks waiting below. No way!

A line of small cliffs formed a wall a little above Lupe’s current position. A couple of breaks might have provided a reasonable scramble to better terrain higher up, but those breaks were full of ice, too.

At the edge of the thin, steep mini-glacier with the gap tantalizingly close, yet unobtainable. **Montana Mountain** (L of Center). Photo looks SE.

A line of small cliffs a little higher up looked insurmountable, too. Photo looks S.

Hmm. Coming this way was starting to look like a mistake, but SPHP wasn’t ready to give up quite yet. Maybe Loop could go around the lower end of the mini-glacier? The rocky slopes on the opposite side might be negotiable.

So down the edge of the glacier the sure-footed American Dingo went. SPHP carefully picked a way lower using poles and ice-embedded rocks for support. Slow, but faster than trying to scramble amidst the boulder field next to the ice.

Heading down the edge of the mini-glacier. Photo looks NE.

Looking up the mini-glacier toward the elusive gap. Photo looks SSE.

Once at the bottom of the glacier, Lupe turned E. She got only halfway along the toe before SPHP called a halt. The territory beyond the glacier looked less friendly than before. Looper could climb that hillside, but whether SPHP could seemed doubtful. Maybe yes, maybe no. The longer SPHP pondered, the stronger the “no” impression became.

The territory beyond the mini-glacier. **Montana Mountain** (L of Center). Photo looks SE.

Zoomed in for a closer look. Maybe going up toward the R passing below the boulder near (Center) would work?

Well, it might have worked, might even have been easy, but this jaunt to the mini-glacier had already taken more than an hour. With prospects for success still uncertain, investing more time in what could prove to be a lost cause seemed a poor choice. Should have stuck with the big ridge! At least it had looked like an almost guaranteed success.

Before heading back to give the big ridge a shot, Lupe climbed up onto a small ridge overlooking the scenic tarn.

About as far as Lupe got around the mini-glacier (off the R edge). Photo looks E.

Near the tarn. The ridge Lupe had to return to is on the L. Photo looks NW.

On the field of stones leading back to the big ridge (L). **Brute Mountain** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

Once back on the road winding up to the lower NW end of the big ridge, Lupe followed it to a point overlooking the pass between the ridge and Brute Mountain. More of Bennett Lake and smoke from several small forest fires were in view beyond the pass. Loopster left the road here, starting up a moderately steep slope of white stones. Her ascent of Montana Mountain’s long NW ridge had begun.

Starting up **Montana Mountain’s NW ridge**. Photo looks SE.

Nothing to it! The ascent went well. Views improved. The nutcase with the bulldozer had been zig-zagging higher even up here. Every now and then, Lupe crossed the bulldozer’s path, little more than flattened zones of loose rock.

**Sugarloaf Hill** (L) and **Tagish Lake**. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Montana Mountain** (R) and the mini-glacier Lupe hadn’t gotten past (closest one straight up from her ears). Photo looks ESE.

The rocks eventually changed from white to tan or brown. After gaining 600 feet of elevation, Loop reached the first high point along the ridge. A cairn sat on a rocky knoll here, and a patch of tundra provided a good spot to take a break.

Approaching the **first high point at 6,600 ft**. (Center). Photo looks S.

**Brute Mountain** from the 6,600 ft. high point. Photo looks NW.

Looking down the **Knob Creek drainage** at smoke from forest fires on the lower slopes of **Finger Mountain (5,500 ft.)** (Center) across **Bennett Lake**. Photo looks WSW.

Zoomed in on the smoldering **E slopes of Finger Mountain**. Photo looks W.

**Caribou Mountain (6,400 ft.)** (Center). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

From this vantage point, the true summit of Brute Mountain appeared to be one of two closer, gentler high points rather than a much more jagged region farther NW. An ascent later on still looked feasible. However, a mere glance at Mount Matheson (7,200 ft.), which was now in view to the S, instantly dispelled any notion that Lupe might be able to climb it.

The forbidding N aspect of **Mount Matheson** (Center). Photo looks S.

20 minutes, and it was time to move on. A couple of successively higher points were visible farther SE along the ridge. Lupe set out for them on a trail that started out right up on the ridgeline, and never strayed too far from it. Soon she was getting views of the broad, moderately sloping region she had been unable to reach above the mini-glacier.

Montana Mountain was in sight, too, a striking peak of mottled dark and light grays, tans, and browns.

Loopster ready to get going again. **Montana Mountain** (L). Photo looks SE.

Looking down on the tarn Loop had visited below the mini-glacier. **Sugarloaf Hill** (L). **Tagish Lake** (Center) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

**Montana Mountain** from its NW ridge. Photo looks E.

Upon reaching the 3rd high point along the ridgeline, Lupe could see that the ridge flattened out from here on. Instead of heading directly for Montana Mountain, which would have required substantial elevation loss, she kept following the ridge SE.

At the 3rd high point along the ridgeline. Photo looks SE.

Glancing back at **Brute Mountain** from the 3rd high point. Photo looks NW.

The American Dingo stuck with the ridgeline until she was able to leave it with minimal elevation loss. Sweeping around the S end of the broad basin to the E, she headed for a minor ridge SW of Montana Mountain’s summit.

Sticking with the NW ridge all the way to the R. **Montana Mountain** (L). Photo looks E.

Crossing the upper end of the rocky plain. Photo looks NE.

No trail led across the flat, rocky plain, but Lupe picked one up again as soon as she got to the SW ridge. Following the first part of this ridge was easy. The SE (R) side dropped sharply away, but the NW side was never difficult. Most of the time Looper could stay right up on the ridgeline.

Near the end, Lupe came to a minor pass of light brown sand and rock. This was easily crossed. Ahead was a much steeper climb, but not a long one. The summit was now only 200 or 300 feet higher!

Approaching the light brown pass. Photo looks NE.

A trail was visible going up from the W, the direction Lupe would have come from if she had made it past the mini-glacier. She reached this trail partway up. A bit of light scrambling was involved, but nothing at all daunting. Soon Loop was only a short stroll from the top.

Approaching the true summit. Photo looks N.

9-11-19, 4:45 PM, 38ºF, summit of Montana Mountain – Despite doubts during the final approach, it was immediately obvious that Lupe really had reached the true summit of Montana Mountain. Off to the NE, a high point with a tower was clearly somewhat lower.

The very top of Montana Mountain (7,233 ft.) was a rocky point. A small region almost as high extended a little way S. The N face was a cliff. No cairn, but a metal rod stuck up out of the rocks. A shiny metal plate shaped like a stop sign rested right below the true summit. SPHP picked it up expecting to find a registry, but found only rocks beneath.

Lupe at the true summit. Photo looks NE.

With the fruitless mini-misadventure to the mini-glacier, it had taken a while to get here. The weather seemed to be deteriorating. Shortly after reaching the summit, Lupe was pelted with snow granules for 5 minutes, followed soon after by a series of cold, light rain showers. Any sunshine lingered in the distance in a few scattered spots.

Yet the gray clouds overhead were still above the mountaintops. Driven by a 10 to 15 mph S breeze, they sailed N in endless procession. The air below them was rather hazy, obscuring the most distant peaks, but Lupe could see plenty of closer mountains in all directions.

Mount Matheson loomed only a couple of km off to the SW. To the W, bits of Bennett Lake were visible, along with smoke still rising from the fires smoldering on Finger Mountain. Nearly the entire length of the long ridge Lupe had traveled to get here was in view, too.

The long dark ridge Lupe followed (from R to L) on her way here is in the foreground. **Bennett Lake** beyond. **Mountain Matheson** (L). Photo looks WSW.

Off to the NW, Brute Mountain still looked quite climbable. Sadly, it was clear by now that SPHP must have been nuts. The Carolina Dog wasn’t going to have anywhere close to enough time to do that, but it was still possible to admire the mountain from here.

**Brute Mountai**n (Center). Photo looks NW.

Seen dimly through the haze to the N were a couple of friends! Two splendid peaks Lupe had been to – Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.), which she had climbed exactly a month ago, and Canyon Mountain (4,901 ft.) way up by Whitehorse.

**Mount Lorne** (Center) in the distance. **Canyon Mountain** (L) even farther away. **Caribou Mountain** (R). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Another friend was in sight to the NNE. Nares Mountain (5,833 ft.), which Lupe had visited a year ago, was lined up almost directly beyond Sugarloaf Hill.

**Nares Mountain** (Center) is lined up behind **Sugarloaf Hill** in the foreground. **Caribou Mountain** (L). Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

To the S, a couple of small green tarns nestled in a cirque. Far beyond them, the S end of Tutsi Lake was visible.

**S end of Tutsi Lake** (R). Photo looks SSW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Rocks everywhere! No place for the American Dingo to get comfortable except SPHP’s lap. For a good long while, Lupe curled up as SPHP sat petting her, and gazing at the wonders all around.

Might that not be Paddy Peak (7,238 ft.) way off to the SSW? And far to the ESE, that had to be Mount Minto (6,913 ft.)! So on and so forth, as Lupe’s precious minutes on fabulous Montana Mountain ticked away.

**Paddy Peak (7,238 ft.)** (L of Center)? Photo looks SSW.

**Mount Minto (6,913 ft.)** (Center). Photo looks ESE.

**Tagish Lake**. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Patterson (6,500 ft.)** (Center), with **Mount Conrad (5,800 ft.)** in front of it. **Ramshorn Creek valley** (L). Photo looks SE.

Looking S with help from the telephoto lens.

The weather was improving again. Nearly an hour gone by. Ready or not, soon time to leave. Lupe explored the little summit region again. She could have gone all the way on to the high point with the tower, but never did. Getting too late even for that.

*Might have been fun to go over to that tower, SPHP!* Photo looks NE.

**Brute Mountain** (Center) from the N face of Montana Mountain. Photo looks NW.

All too soon, beneath a clearing sky in Canada’s fabled Yukon Territory, an American Dingo again stood at the summit of Montana Mountain. This was it. Time to say good-bye to the last incredible peak Lupe would climb on her grand Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation. What a great choice Montana Mountain (7,233 ft.) had been!

Final moments at the summit. Photo looks N.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

The return was beautiful! Same route, minus the misadventure to the mini-glacier. No Mount Matheson, or even Brute Mountain, but it was an evening of solitude, breath-taking scenery, and joy.

Back down to the SW ridge. **Mount Matheson** (R). Photo looks SW.

Heading back along the NW ridge. Photo looks NW.

A colorful bit of tundra in a gray world.

Back at the first 6,600 ft. high point along the NW ridge. Photo looks SE.

Same place, by the little cairn. Photo looks N.

Farewell, **Montana Mountain**! Photo looks SSE.

By the time Lupe made it to the abandoned upper reaches of Montana Mountain Road on the way back to the landslide, trouble was brewing. The sun was long down, and it was getting too dark to see. Worse yet, the road was becoming way more overgrown than SPHP remembered.

The flashlight had to come out. Helpful, but not with orientation. The landslide couldn’t be too much farther, but the road vanished. Bushes everywhere. SPHP followed a faint trail N until it too, appeared to end. Confusion. Now what? SPHP wasn’t even certain whether Lupe was too high or too low. Too low would be a disaster.

The Carolina Dog made a sharp turn to the SW. Gradually descending, she went farther than SPHP thought could possibly be correct. Finally, Lupe turned W beginning a steeper descent. Not even the slightest sign of a trail! Better not go too far! She didn’t. A road appeared. Had Loopster saved the day? No telling. SPHP marked the middle of the road with a small cairn. Might have to find this spot again, and go back up.

No need. A short road trek N, and there was the landslide! Alright! Back on track! In the silent Yukon night, Lupe led the way back across the landslide along the skinny soft trail, the only sound made by pebbles tumbling down the steep slope.

Made it! Still a few weary km to go, but the G6 was sure to be waiting at the end. (9-11-19, 10:51 PM, 44ºF)

**Montana Mountain**, Yukon Territory, Canada 9-11-19

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Donjek Crossing Mountain, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-9-19)

Days 33 – 36 of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

9-6-19, a little after 8:00 AM, Lazy Mountain trailhead in Palmer, Alaska – Another vehicle pulled into the trailhead. Gate must be open! According to a sign on the way in yesterday, the gate was supposed get locked at 10:00 PM. However, after climbing Matanuska Peak (6,093 ft.), Lupe hadn’t made it back to the trailhead until well after midnight.

Who knew if the gate had actually been locked? SPHP had been too weary to check. Didn’t matter now. Lupe was free to go.

A beautiful mostly blue sky morning, but nothing was happening today. Loopster’s little jaunt up Matanuska Peak had been quite the excursion. SPHP’s R foot was sore, and energy levels were low. Orange juice, sweet rolls, and a big chocolate milkshake, the latter 2 shared with the Dingo, helped restore some energy. The foot, however, needed time.

SPHP called Sven, the young guy Lupe had met on the trail yesterday. Sven had proposed climbing a peak together. No answer. SPHP left a message. Lupe was going to have another shot at Wolverine Peak (4,491 ft.) tomorrow. Call back if interested.

The day got spent in Anchorage. This time Lupe wasn’t interested in a walk at Kincaid Park. Maybe her paws were sore, too? Highlights of the day were a roasted chicken, another chocolate milkshake, and hours spent watching the waves roll in at Point Woronzof. Oh, and Sven did answer later on. Wolverine Peak tomorrow was a go!

9-7-19, 10:00 AM, Anchorage at the Prospect Heights trailhead – Lupe was here, but where was Sven? Might have bailed due to the weather. So much for blue skies. Rainy and gray today. Not good. SPHP was about ready to bail, too, when Sven called. Coming, but will be an hour late. Start without him, he would catch up. SPHP explained it was raining. No worries, Sven didn’t care. He would bring a raincoat.

A gust of wind tore leaves from the trees, sending them whirling. 6 days ago, Lupe had been driven back by an absolute gale up on Wolverine Peak. This wasn’t going to be a repeat, was it? The trailhead was busy. No one else seemed worried about wind or rain. Alrighty, then! Lupe headed for the Wolverine Bowl trail.

Raining harder, but Loop was making decent progress when, 20 minutes from the trailhead, 2 young women were running back. The second one stopped to warn SPHP. She had made it 4 miles up Wolverine Peak, but conditions were much worse up there. Raining buckets, and a ferocious wind blowing so hard she could barely stand up. Impossible to get to the summit. Use extreme caution, if making an attempt.

OK ……. so much for Wolverine Peak.

Back at the trailhead, Sven eventually did arrive. If Sven was going up Wolverine Peak, he was going alone. Even though conditions here at the trailhead were mild, Sven understood. How about just a hike along lower portions of the Wolverine Bowl trail? Sure. Why not? Rained the whole time. Lupe got soaking wet, but at least she didn’t get blown off the mountain.

Sven was a really good guy. The whole encounter ended with hot coffee at Starbucks, while Lupe got a chew stick.

Lupe in Anchorage with newfound friend Sven.

And that was it for Alaska. Many more great peaks to climb, but already a week into September. With a new front blowing in, it was time to start for home. Score: Dingo 0, Wolverine Peak 2. By evening Lupe had made it to the Copper River just E of Gulkana Junction.

**Matanuska Peak** (Center), taken on the way through Palmer. Both Sven and Lupe had climbed it 2 days ago. Photo looks E.

Looking back along the Glenn Highway from the **Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.)** trailhead (MP 118.5) at the dreariness chasing Lupe out of Alaska. Photo looks SW.

Sign posted along the Glenn Highway on the way to Glennallen. Photo looks E.

**Mount Sanford (16,237 ft.)** (L) and **Mount Drum (12,010 ft.)** (straight ahead!) from the Glenn Highway. Photo looks E.

**Mount Drum** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks E.

Evening at the **Copper River**, 1.5 miles NE of Gakona Junction. **Mount Sanford** (Center) on the horizon. Photo looks E.

9-8-19, 6:34 AM, 49ºF, Copper River pullout along the Tok Cut-off – Sunrise at the Copper River. Beautiful! Lupe was up and at ’em! Today she would be leaving Alaska, returning to the Yukon Territory. Fabulous sights all along the way!

Sunrise at the **Copper River**. Photo looks E.

9-8-19, 7:54 AM, 38ºF, Tok Cut-off at the Chistochina River rest stop – Oh, if only yesterday could have been like today! Lupe and Sven would have climbed Wolverine Peak for sure! As it was, Loop enjoyed an early romp across the Chistochina River bridge. In addition to seeing the gorgeous river, she was lucky enough to be treated to a terrific view of Mount Sanford (16,237 ft.).

On the **Chistochina River bridge**. Photo looks SW.

**Mount Sanford** from the **Chistochina River**. Photo looks SE.

An upstream view. Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Sanford**. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

As Lupe continued NE on the Tok Cut-off, several more stops were made as Mount Sanford receded. At one point, Mount Wrangell (14,163 ft.) could be seen as well.

**Mount Sanford** again from farther NE along the Tok Cut-off. Photo looks SSW.

Fall colors along the Tok Cut-Off. Photo looks NE.

**Mount Wrangell** with lots of help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSW.

By noon, The Carolina Dog was well SE of Tok on the Alaska Highway. The white giants of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park were long gone. The scenes now were of wetlands, lakes, and rolling Black Hills of the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge.

**Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge** from the Alaska Highway. Photo looks SW.

At 1:38 PM (PDT now), Lupe crossed the Canadian border. Leaving Alaska was sad, but more adventures were ahead in the fabled Yukon Territory! Brief stops were made to see a budding forest fire and Pickhandle Lake.

A forest fire greeted Lupe shortly after entering Canada again. Photo looks W.

On the dock at **Pickhandle Lake**. Photo looks SE.

**Pickhandle Lake** is in the Shakwak Trench NE of Canada’s St. Elias Mountains. Photo looks WNW.

Excitement was growing as Lupe continued SE on the Alaska Highway. Such a beautiful, warm, clear day! Not much farther was a mountain SPHP had been hoping Looper could climb ever since she first saw it in 2016. The American Dingo had been by it every year since then at least once, but conditions had never been right. Tomorrow, if this weather held, Lupe was finally going get her chance to attempt an ascent of Donjek Crossing Mountain (5,881 ft.)!

9-8-19, 3:30 PM, Donjek River – Oh, yeah! There it was! Rising more than 3,500 feet above the mighty Donjek River stood the wonderful mountain that Lupe was going to climb! All the Carolina Dog would have to do was get above treeline. The rest would be easy.

Of course, it all hinged on the weather. Right now the sun was a beast! Perfect! Too bad Loop hadn’t arrived here last night. She would already be on top!

Before reaching the Donjek River bridge, SPHP pulled off on the R (SW) side of the highway. A gravel road led down a little hill toward the river. A curve to the R, and there was a perfect place to stash the G6. Time to get out and have a look around!

The G6 in a great spot right alongside the **Donjek River**. Lupe would be spending the night right here. Fabulous! Photo looks NW.

Plenty of time to relax, but there was one important task to be taken care of yet this afternoon. Driving across the Alaska Highway bridge, Lupe and SPHP set out to investigate possible access points leading to Donjek Crossing Mountain. Two side roads several miles SE of the bridge didn’t pan out. One went only a short distance to a microwave tower, the other dead-ended almost immediately.

So no roads or trails. Looper was going to have to brute force her way through the forest. Didn’t look that bad, anyway. SPHP drove back to the G6 refuge on the NW side of the Donjek.

An incredibly hot afternoon. The sun was a demon! 71ºF! Lupe and SPHP hung out in or near the G6. When the air cooled in the evening, Loop was ready to do some exploring.

Roaming the flood plain. Photo looks SW.

Beside the mighty **Donjek River**. Photo looks SW.

On the Alaska Highway bridge. Photo looks SW.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** from Donjek Crossing. Photo looks NE.

*Oh, it’s going to be great! What do you think we’ll see from up there tomorrow?*

**St. Elias Mountains** from the **Donjek River**. Photo looks SSW.

Looking N from the SE side of the river.

**St. Elias Mountains** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

9-9-19, 7:53 AM, 32ºF, at a parking area by a pond SE of the Donjek River – Clear, calm, and crisp! Time to hit it! SPHP had already driven across the bridge to the chosen launch point. Lupe trotted from the parking area up to the Alaska Highway and followed it S. It was a bit of a stroll to a high point along the road.

This was it! For better or worse, Lupe turned E, plunging into the forest.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** from the point where Lupe left the Alaska Highway. Photo looks NE.

A bit of luck already! Beyond a band of trees, a field of spent fireweed led up an open slope. Nice!

This field of frost-bitten fireweed made for an unexpected easy start. Photo look E.

Lupe followed the fireweed field as far as she could before entering a mostly deciduous forest. The forest floor was soft, spongy material, which required extra effort, but felt good on the paws. Dry branches snapped and cracked as Loop roamed higher through a deep woods wilderness.

Not too far to the R (S), a small stream could be heard down in a ravine. SPHP tried to stay close to the poorly defined edge of the ravine where the ground was sometimes firmer. Meanwhile, Lupe was having a blast exploring at will.

The climb steepened. Lupe’s first objective was to reach a broad gently sloping region several km SW of Donjek Crossing Mountain’s summit, an elevation gain of roughly 600 feet from where she’d left the highway. The Carolina Dog hadn’t reached that area yet when she came to a steep slope that led up to a small opening. Here she already had a beautiful view of snow-capped peaks of the St. Elias Mountains far beyond the Donjek River.

Along the edge of the thickly wooded ravine Lupe had been following. Photo looks SW.

**St. Elias Mountains**. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

As Lupe continued higher, the rate of climb finally started to diminish. The forest was changing, too. Scraggly spruce trees were taking over. The ground was soft and lumpy, often covered with thick green moss.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks SE.

Soon Lupe was on level terrain. No sign of anything up here. No trails, not even any animal trails. Donjek Crossing Mountain was still hidden from view. Had to be out there somewhere, though! Lupe turned NE.

Prowling up on the mossy, nearly level region. Photo looks SE.

SPHP wandered NE or ENE in the presumed general direction of Donjek Crossing Mountain. Meanwhile, Lupe sniffed and prowled. She often disappeared from sight, but returned every few minutes to check on SPHP. The Carolina Dog loved it up here! She was having a great time.

This went on for quite a while. Completely hidden by a dense forest of spruce, deciduous trees, and tall bushes, Donjek Crossing Mountain still hadn’t appeared. Lupe had been missing for a few minutes when SPHP spotted her again about 50 feet away. She was trotting along normally, heading straight for SPHP.

Was Loop even aware of the danger? SPHP couldn’t tell. Maybe she knew, but didn’t recognize its presence as danger? The American Dingo was not alone. Death was silently padding along 15 feet behind her. It could all be over in an instant! Fortunately, Death did not seem to be in a hurry. It was not chasing Lupe, and did not appear ready to pounce, merely following the odd unfamiliar Carolina Dog, as if curious about what sort of creature lunch was.

Lupe, come!

At the sound, Death stopped in its tracks. Yellow eyes stared straight at SPHP. Perhaps Lupe had been unaware of Death, but Death had also been unaware of SPHP. Loop reached SPHP acting as if she didn’t have a care in the world. Danger? What danger? Why, it was just a cat! Lupe had been raised with cats, and lived with them for many years. They’re not bad. Just sort of stand-offish solitary creatures, a strange breed of dog that doesn’t understand how to be a good member of the pack.

Confused and disappointed, a lynx easily twice Lupe’s size did not run. Instead, it slunk noiselessly deeper into the forest. 100 feet away, the lynx stopped and stared back again. SPHP tried to get a photo. Dang camera insisted upon auto-focusing on branches in the foreground. Clearly visible to the naked eye, the lynx was a blur to the camera lens.

No question Lupe saw the lynx now! Bold as brass, the American Dingo was eager to go bark at it.

No! Absolutely not! Quiet!

The lynx paused only 5 or 10 seconds before silently retreating into the leafy gloom. Insufficient time to adjust the camera. No photo. Hard to be too upset about that. Lupe was still among the living!

*Oh, how exciting! The lynx was right here only moments ago! It was enormous! Wha’dya say we go find it again? See what it wants! Give it what for!*

The long march through the wilderness continued. Glimpses of Donjek Crossing Mountain finally began to appear. Looper was right on track! She came to a more open boggy area, which fortunately was almost dry. A golden forest was visible on the lower slopes of Donjek Crossing Mountain. Looked like an enchanted place! Lupe headed for it.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** (L) comes into sight. HP5400 (Center). Photo looks NE.

*Look! An enchanted forest! Let’s go over there!* Crossing the small bog. Photo looks NE.

On the way to the golden forest, Lupe lost sight of it while among the spruce trees again. The golden forest really was enchanted! Although she headed straight for it, Loop never did come to it.

She did reach the base of the mountain, though! At first, the terrain rose gradually, but the rate of climb quickly increased. A steep ascent got Loop up to a grove of aspens, just the sort of tree that might grow in an enchanted forest, but their gold was all spent.

The American Dingo kept climbing. Getting close to treeline now! As trees became scarcer, bushes became more numerous. Maneuvering through these thickets on a steep mountainside was tough. Gradually the trees were left behind, but the climb didn’t get easier until the bushes began to wane, too. Meanwhile, views were opening up.

Trees and bushes! Bushes and trees! Photo looks SSW.

**St. Elias Mountains** beyond the **Donjek River**. Photo looks SW.

Only scattered trees now, but a steep struggle among the bushes went on and on. However, once Lupe was through the worst of them, it was clear nothing was going to stop the Carolina Dog from reaching the top of Donjek Crossing Mountain. Sadly, it was now apparent the sky wasn’t as clear as it had been earlier. Smoke was drifting up the long valley of the Shakwak Trench driven by a steady SE breeze.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain’s far S ridge** (Center). Smoke is visible coming up the **Shakwak Trench** (far R). Photo looks SE.

Hardly a rock anywhere until now. The grassy slopes above bush line did have some. Although Loopster had already gained a tremendous amount of elevation, a long steep climb was still ahead. A breezy romp! The wind was 20 to 25 mph out of the SE up here.

On the grassy slopes. **HP5300** (R). Photo looks E.

*Looks like we’re getting close to the top.* Photo looks NE.

**Donjek River** and **St. Elias Mountains** from the slopes of **HP5400**. Photo looks SSW. Unfortunately, the sky is turning white with smoke in this direction.

At last the terrain began to level out. An easy stroll led toward a plateau only moderately higher. This plateau was the top of HP5400, a subpeak S of Donjek Crossing Mountain’s true summit.

HP5400‘s summit was multiple acres in size. Brown grass and tundra covered a flat plain. Plenty of rocks around, but not enough to call this region rocky. Near the center, a single skinny, dark gray rock stood on end. Lupe hopped up on it to claim a sub-peakbagging victory!

Loopster on the highest rock of **HP5400**. **HP5300** (R) in the background. **Peak 6158** (Center). Photo looks ESE.

The tawny summit of Donjek Crossing Mountain (5,881 ft.) was now in sight only 1 km away!

**Summit of Donjek Crossing Mountain** from the highest rock on **HP5400**. *Told ya this rock was skinny!* Photo looks N.

Getting to the summit was going to be easy! A walk up a big, barren hill, not even 500 feet higher than where Loop was now. Joy and excitement grew as Lupe headed for the N edge of HP5400 for a view of the saddle leading to the top. Yep, absolutely nothing to worry about. Cake!

*Hah! Nothing to it!* Loop along the N edge of **HP5400**. Photo looks N.

Gazing down on the **Alaska Highway bridge** (L) over the **Donjek River** from **HP5400**. Photo looks W.

A bit of a trudge, but Lupe was soon across the saddle, and heading up the S side of the summit. What a happy march up the big hill it was! The American Dingo had waited years for this moment. She arrived at the slightly lower SE end of a one acre summit region. The terrain sloped gently higher toward a pole sticking out of a cairn at the far NW end.

Heading for the cairn (Center) at the **true summit**. Photo looks NW.

*Made it! After all these years, too!* At the **true summit of Donjek Crossing Mountain**. Photo looks SSW.

Oh, it was incredible! Lupe had that big view of the Alaska Highway bridge over the Donjek River she had come so far to see. Donjek Crossing! How fabulous it was to be here!

**Donjek Crossing** from **Donjek Crossing Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

**Donjek Crossing**. The G6 (unseen) was parked L of the blue pond. Photo looks SW.

The only disappointment was the amount of smoky haze that had blown in during the course of the day, marring the panorama of grand peaks of the St. Elias Range. But it wasn’t too bad. Still possible to see.

Spread out along the St. Elias range, several of the highest mountains in Canada were visible! Mount Wood (15,789 ft.), 7th highest; Mount Steele (16,644 ft.), 6th highest; Mount Lucania (17,192 ft.), 4th highest; and Mount Walsh (14,783 ft.), 13 highest were all in sight.

Regional map of the St. Elias Range posted at a pullout along the Alaska Highway several miles S of the Donjek River.

**Mount Wood** (Center), 7th highest mountain in Canada. Photo looks SW.

**Mount Wood (15,789 ft.)**. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Steele (16,644 ft.)** (L), 6th highest, and **Mount Lucania (17,192 ft.)** (Center), 4th highest mountains in Canada. Photo looks SSW.

**Mount Walsh** (far R). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Walsh (14,783 ft.)** (R of Center), 13th highest mountain in Canada. Photo looks SSW.

There were glimpses of other grand peaks, too! Ones that SPHP was never able to identify.

Unknown peaks far to the W. They might even have been in Alaska!

After an initial look, Lupe and SPHP sat together near the cairn, taking a long break while enjoying the magnificent scenes.

After a good rest, it was time for a tour of all the views! Lupe first went out on a short N ridge to a point overlooking an enormous stretch of the Donjek River. She could see miles and miles of the river both upstream and downstream from here.

Lupe by the cairn from the start of the N ridge. Photo looks SSE.

At the end of the short N ridge. **Donjek River** (R). Photo looks NNW.

The upstream view. **Mount Wood** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Returning to the main summit region, Lupe next went counter-clockwise around the perimeter. Mountains of the Kluane Plateau to the E were roughly as high as Donjek Crossing Mountain.

**Peak 6158** (R with the yellow slopes). Photo looks E.

Ever so far to the SE, the pointy summit of Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.) was in sight! Lupe had climbed Decoeli on her very first trip to the Yukon Territory in 2016! Immediately S were Donjek Crossing Mountain’s two subpeaks, HP5300 and HP5400.

**Mount Decoeli** (R) is the pointy peak straight up from Lupe at the far end of the **Shakwak Trench**. **Peak 6158** (L). Photo looks SE.

Subpeaks **HP5300** (L) and **HP5400** (R) in the foreground. Photo looks S.

Her tour complete, Lupe returned to the summit cairn. For a long time the American Dingo lingered gazing down on the mighty Donjek River and beyond to the snow-clad peaks of Canada’s loftiest mountain range.

**Mount Walsh** (L), **Mount Steele** (Center), and **Mount Wood** (R). Photo looks SW.

It was hard to leave. It really was. What might have been the most tragic day ever, had turned out to be so wonderful!

More than 1.5 hours after arriving, Lupe left the summit cairn for the last time. Down the mountain she went.

Near the saddle leading to **HP5400** (L). Photo looks SW.

On the way back, SPHP made a mistake. Instead of going back up onto HP5400 and down the way Lupe had come up, a long bare slope seen from the saddle leading to HP5400 seemed an enticing shortcut. Steep, but Lupe could lose a lot of elevation before she reached the bushes.

Looking down the enticing slope. Photo looks SW.

That was true. Lupe did lose lots of elevation going down HP5400‘s W slope. But inevitably she reached the bushes on a slope so steep SPHP began to fear she might cliff out. It was almost impossible to correct the error. Once down to the trees, nothing was familiar, and no landmarks were in sight.

In retrospect, the Carolina Dog was simply too far N. As she tried to get back to the Alaska Highway where she left it, she found herself crossing numerous ravines. She traversed steep slopes. The forest was dense, and endless thickets of tall bushes grew on some of the hillsides. This shortcut may have been a tiny bit shorter, but it was taking a lot longer.

Better get out of this mess before it gets dark!

*Come on, SPHP! Figure it out, or that lynx is going to get us yet!*

The sun was still shining up on Donjek Crossing Mountain (5,881 ft.) when the American Dingo finally reached the Alaska Highway within a few hundred feet of where she’d left it. Whew! Just a pleasant stroll now back to the G6. No traffic. A gorgeous evening.

Donjek Crossing Mountain had been a dream come true, although it had nearly turned into a nightmare. Success, and no worries now. Lupe lived to tell the tale!

Somewhere on Donjek Crossing Mountain, a hungry lynx was wishing she hadn’t. (8:55 PM)

**Donjek Crossing Mountain**, Yukon Territory, Canada 9-9-19

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Decoeli, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-9-16)