Missouri Buttes – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 255: Missouri Buttes & A Visit With Dave Covill, Lead Director of the Highpointers Foundation (5-27-20)

5-25-20 – Lucky Dingo! You’ve been granted a reprieve.

I have? That’s good! A reprieve from what, SPHP?

All this endless boredom laying around. Apparently you’ve served your 6 month sentence. Adventure is heading your way! Remember Dave Covill and your Mighty Dingo Missile Launch?

How could I ever forget that? I was sore for a week!

You’re lucky you weren’t crippled for life! Anyway, Dave is coming up from Colorado in a couple of days to climb Devils Tower (5,112 ft.). Says here he might have time to meet with us.

Devils Tower! That’s straight up and down! No one can climb that!

Actually, it is possible with the right equipment and skills, Loop.

Or a helicopter!

Hah! Yeah, that’s the only way we’d ever get up there! Don’t worry, we aren’t going to try to keep up with Dave. Last year his first little starter peak was Aconcagua (22,841 ft.), the high point of South America!

5-27-20, 12:45 PM, Wyoming Hwy 24 – We’re almost there, SPHP! There’s Devils Tower and the Missouri Buttes (5,374 ft.), too. Can we stop and take a look from here?

Sure thing, Loopster!

*Great to be back in Wyoming! There’s **Devils Tower** (R), and **Missouri Buttes** (L).* Photo looks NNW.

At 1:02 PM, Lupe arrived at the Devils Tower Trading Post. Dave was supposed to meet her here once he finished his final training session with his guide.

*Dave won’t be free for another hour yet, so let’s have a look around!* Photo looks WNW.

*Mr. Covill’s been training on **Devils Tower** yesterday afternoon, and again today. Maybe he’s somewhere on the lower part right now?*

*I don’t see him, though. Maybe he’s already down, or on another side of the mountain?*

*The entrance to America’s first national monument is right next to the trading post and the **Devils Tower KOA campground**.*

*This sign at the KOA depicts an **Indian legend** about how Devils Tower came to be.*

Dave finally showed up a little before 2:30 PM. He was pleased with how quickly he had bonded with his guide, and the quality of training. Despite Dave’s decades of peakbagging experience, Devils Tower was a tough and unique challenge! One of his knees was scraped up and swollen, but he still intended to climb the mountain tomorrow.

**Dave Covill**, Lead Director of the Highpointers Foundation with Loop at the trading post.

Dave had a few hours to burn with Lupe, so what to do? Two options! First was a visit to Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.), the high point of the Bear Lodge mountains. Warren Peaks was easy. A USFS road went all the way to the fire lookout tower on top, so it was just a drive up. The other option was to climb Missouri Buttes, which would take a few hours.

After a very early start on the long drive up from Colorado yesterday morning followed by two rigorous training sessions on Devils Tower, and faced with the prospect of climbing it tomorrow, Warren Peaks sounded like the sensible choice to Dave. He jumped in the G6 with Lupe and SPHP.

On the way to Warren Peaks, SPHP naturally asked about Dave’s trip to Aconcagua, and also his return to Alaska in August, 2019 for a second attempt on Mount Isto (8,976 ft.), the high point of the Brooks Range. Both were gripping tales.

(Dave’s Aconcagua trip report, Greg Slayden’s Mount Isto trip report. Their mutual friend Edward Earl had drowned in the Jago River during a first trip to Mount Isto in June, 2015.)

Shortly before reaching Warren Peaks, SPHP parked on a hill expecting a view of Devils Tower, but only the Missouri Buttes were in sight.

Warren Peaks area. **Missouri Buttes** (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks NW.

It was surprisingly cool up at Warren Peaks. A massive cloud hung over the region hiding the view of the Black Hills way over in South Dakota. Dave climbed the fire lookout tower as far as it was possible to go, but access to the platform around the ranger’s quarters was locked. Not to be outdone, even Lupe climbed the tower, which she doesn’t normally like to do.

Dave and Lupe near the **Warren Peaks lookout tower**.

The Black Hills of South Dakota were hidden by a cloud. Photo looks SE.

During the return to Devils Tower, SPHP took the paved roads, a longer route, so Dave could get a look at the town of Sundance.

Shhh! Quit talking, SPHP.

Hmm? What, Loop?

Be quiet! You’ve put Dave to sleep.

Oh! Umm, yeah. I often have that affect on people, don’t I, Looper? Guess I’ve got quite a soothing personality.

I suppose that’s one way of putting it.

Back at Devils Tower, Dave introduced Lupe and SPHP to a couple of climbing guides he’d met who happened to come along, then he had other business to attend to. The first of 3 more friends that were going to climb Devils Tower with him was due in this evening. So that was it for now, although Dave said he might be free again in a couple of days.

5-27-20, 4:50 PM, Devils Tower Trading Post –

Fun seeing Dave again, wasn’t it, SPHP?

Sure was, Loopster. Mighty nice of him to want to include us in his plans.

So what now? Are we just going home?

Oh, I don’t know. Not even 5:00 PM yet. We still have permission from the Nuckolls to climb Missouri Buttes. I think there’s still time. Want to do that?

Absolutely! Let’s go for it!

From Devils Tower, the entrance to the Nuckolls Ranch was a few miles N on Hwy 24, then another mile N and 4 miles W on Barlow Canyon Road.

At the turn off Barlow Canyon Road into the **Nuckolls Ranch**. Photo looks SW.

Of the 4 main Missouri Buttes, the 2 highest are on the privately owned Nuckolls Ranch.

As instructed while getting permission from Will Nuckolls to enter the ranch in order to visit the Missouri Buttes, SPHP drove S past 2 homes and a number of outbuildings, ultimately parking the G6 beyond them nearly 1.5 miles S of Barlow Canyon Road.

A pickup truck full of Nuckolls driven by family matriarch, Thea Nuckolls, appeared within minutes. Lupe was several hours later than SPHP had told them to expect her, but that wasn’t a problem. A friendly conversation, and they were on their way.

Lupe was too! She struck out for the Missouri Buttes following a dirt ranch road S.

*Come on! The NE Missouri Butte is only 1.5 miles away!*

The road curved slightly to the R as it went up a mostly forested valley. Lupe quickly came to an old water tank. The main road curved sharply R (NW) here, but the Carolina Dog continued SSW past the water tank a short distance into a more open part of the valley. Within a few hundred feet, the valley branched. Loop took the R (SW) branch instead of going straight ahead.

*We’re not far beyond the water tank now. The valley divides here. We’ll take the branch to the R.* Photo looks SSW.

After just a few minutes, Lupe turned S entering the forest and starting to climb. The remnant of a road curved L around to a clearing on the E side of hill. This looked like a good spot to leave the valley. A quick romp up the hill got Looper up to a narrow, gently rounded ridge.

Following the ridgeline SSW, the Carolina Dog continued to gain a little elevation. However, that didn’t last long. The ridge soon leveled out as it widened out. Lupe passed through an open forest. A few minutes got her beyond the pines. She was now on a broad plateau with a fenced field just ahead. Well beyond the field stood the NW Missouri Butte (5,374 ft.), the highest one of all.

*Thar she blows! That’s the **NW Missouri Butte**, our primary objective!* Photo looks SW.

Without entering the big field, Lupe followed the fence line L (SE). Along the way she went through another section of open woods. Almost at the end, she crossed a little ravine before ducking under a fence. Loopster wasn’t far at all from the NE Missouri Butte (5,212 ft.) now.

Approaching the **NE Missouri Butte**. Photo looks S.

Since it was getting late in the day, and climbing the higher NW butte was top priority, Lupe turned WSW heading for it instead.

Heading for the **NW butte** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Lupe soon reached a stock pond at the base of the NW Missouri Butte. Looking at the mountain from here, a large patch of orange lichens was visible near the top of the N face.

By the stock pond just N of the NW Missouri Butte. Photo looks W.

**NW Missouri Butte** from the pond. Photo looks S.

The American Dingo had been here once before. In November 2016, back when J.W. Nuckolls was still alive, he had told SPHP the best way up the mountain.

The gist of it is this: Climb the talus slope to the base of the rock wall on the N face just below the orange lichens. From there go L (E) following a steep ramp of vegetation higher. At the top of the ramp, a short trail wraps around to the E side where it goes 40 or 50 feet to a spot where it’s easy to clamber up onto the lower E end of the summit. A short walk through junipers and cacti goes past a small tower to the true summit near the W end.

**N face of the NW Butte**. Best route – get as close to the orange lichens (Center) as possible, then follow the vegetation steeply up to the L. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

The **NE Missouri Butte** (R) from above the pond. Photo looks E.

Part of the talus could be avoided by staying to the NW close to a fence line, so that’s what Lupe did. As it turned out, she could have avoided even more talus if she’d actually crossed the fence. Not really a big deal, though, either way. Soon the Carolina Dog was on the rocks.

*Here we go! We’ll head toward the L from here, climbing all the way.* Photo looks SSE.

Even though SPHP knew the best route, Lupe didn’t go quite far enough L (E) to come up below the orange lichens. She wound up in a wide NW chute that was so steep SPHP almost felt compelled to retreat to correct the error.

In a steep, rocky chute on the NW flank. That’s the summit just above! Photo looks S.

Certainly not the best route, but the super steep part at the uppermost end of the chute went only 10 or 15 feet higher. Without assistance, the Carolina Dog quickly scrambled to the top. She’d come up right at the true summit rock!

*Whew! That last bit was a little scary!* Lupe at the **true summit** of the **highest (NW) Missouri Butte**. Photo looks NE.

A Missouri Butte survey benchmark No. 2 was visible along the W edge 10 or 15 feet from the true summit.

The survey benchmark is the bright spot near the big rock at far L. Photo looks NW.

**Survey benchmark No. 2**. No attempt was made to find any others.

Loopster at the **true summit of Missouri Buttes**. Photo looks NW.

5-27-20, 6:54 PM, 57ºF – Such a gorgeous evening! The views from the NW Missouri Butte were tremendous. Off to the W, Lupe could see a huge expanse of flatlands dotted with ponds gleaming in the sunlight. To the N were pine-covered ridges, but nothing nearly as high as where the Carolina Dog was now.

Just as in 2016, the summit region harbored lots of cacti. Lupe was aware of it, and didn’t want to move around much. Between all the rocks and cacti, she had a hard time finding a comfortable spot, but did finally settle down for a while. A light breeze blew out of the W. Loop and SPHP shared several small chocolate coconut granola bars.

Taking it easy on **Missouri Buttes**. Photo looks NNW.

A pleasant half hour drifted by. Unfortunately, the sun wouldn’t be up an awful lot longer. Since Loopster still hoped to climb the NE Missouri Butte, it was time to get going. Lupe returned briefly to the summit rock.

*A shame Dave was too tired to join us here. I think he might have liked **Missouri Buttes**!* Final moments on the summit rock. Photo looks ENE.

The NW butte’s summit region was a fairly large area. Juniper bushes hid the views to the E and S from the true summit. Before departing, it would be fun to see the two lowest Missouri Buttes and Missouri Butte Lake, which were all toward the S. Due to all the cacti, SPHP carried Lupe more than 100 feet to the lower SW edge.

**Missouri Butte Lake**. Photo looks SW.

The 2 lowest Missouri Buttes. **SE Butte** (L) and **SW Butte** (R). Both are over 5,000 ft. Photo looks S.

Loop near the SW end of the summit region. Photo looks NNE back toward the top.

After a good look around from the SW end, SPHP subsequently had to cart the American Dingo back up to the summit.

Enjoying a few more moments at the top while SPHP takes a breather. Photo looks ENE.

No more dilly-dallying! SPHP lugged the Carolina Dog to the E end of the summit. This was even farther, a good 200 or 300 feet. The view to the SE was certainly worth it! Devils Tower (5,112 ft.) was in sight. Lupe got to see the top of Devils Tower before Dave Covill did, albeit from more than 3.5 miles away.

The NE Missouri Butte (5,212 ft.) was also in sight much closer at paw. Might still be time enough to climb it, if Loop hurried!

**NE Missouri Butte** (L) and **Devil’s Tower** (R). Photo looks ESE.

**Devils Tower**. The high point on the horizon is **Warren Peaks**. Photo looks SE.

Lupe could see the top of **Devils Tower** without having to scale that scary overgrown tree stump!

*Lovely, but we better get with it and hurry over to the **NE Missouri Butte**!* Photo looks E.

During the descent, Lupe took the slightly longer, but much safer route originally recommended by Mr. Nuckolls.

Loopster where the faint trail reaches the E end of the summit region. The trail extends toward the camera. Photo looks S.

The N face from the pass. Photo looks WSW.

Coming down the steep ramp. Photo looks ENE.

Descending the talus slope. Photo looks NE.

It took a while to get down. By the time Lupe was approaching the W end of the NE Missouri Butte, the sun was on the horizon.

Approaching the **NE Missouri Butte**. Photo looks E.

Looking back. The **NW Missouri Butte** at sunset. Photo looks W.

The climb up the W end of the NE Butte was fairly steep, but nothing like the NW Butte had been. Just a matter of how quickly SPHP could do it. Once the terrain began to level out, Lupe roamed E in open forest. The true summit was one of a couple of good-sized rocks near the far E end. Light was fading fast by the time the Carolina Dog got there.

SPHP was glad to see that the old thin cross that had been here during Lupe’s first ascent more than 3.5 years ago was still standing. Of course, the big attraction was the view of Devils Tower, which was 0.5 mile closer here than back at the NW Butte.

At the first of the two highest rocks. Photo looks SSE.

*We’re 0.5 mile closer to **Devils Tower** (L) here.* Photo looks SSE.

*Sweet view of **Devils Tower!** Hope you’ve enjoyed this tour of the Missouri Buttes!*

Sadly, 5 minutes at the top was it. Getting pretty dark now. Lupe left the summit of the NE Butte. The flashlight had to come out before she was even completely down off the mountain. As stars began twinkling in the evening sky, Loop and SPHP headed back to the G6. Between seeing Dave Covill and visiting the Missouri Buttes, it had been a memorable day! (10:06 PM, 44ºF)

5-31-20, 8:52 AM, 68ºF, Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park, SD – Turned out the fun Dave Covill had initiated wasn’t over! After a successful ascent of Devils Tower with 3 of his buddies, Dave came down to the Black Hills in South Dakota. As Lead Director of the Highpointers Foundation, he had business to attend to inspecting the installation of a beautiful bench along Trail No. 4 in the the Black Elk Wilderness. Dave kindly invited Lupe and SPHP to come along.

The plan was to go from Sylvan Lake up Trail No. 9, which went past an older, similar bench also provided by the Highpointers Foundation. From there Lupe would get to summit Black Elk Peak (7,242 ft.) before making a loop back along Trail No. 4.

Dave Covill and Lupe at the first bench along Trail No. 9.

**Black Elk Peak** (R of Center in the distance) from the viewpoint close to the first bench. Photo looks NE.

At the only creek crossing along Trail No. 9.

Everything went as planned. An hour later Lupe was approaching the old fire lookout tower on Black Elk Peak, the highest mountain in South Dakota. The Highpointers Foundation had helped pay for restoration work, including new windows in the top of the tower.

*Practically to the top now! Those are the **Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.)** (L) and **Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.)** is the big knob seen just L of my head.* Photo looks SSW.

Approaching the old fire lookout tower on **Black Elk Peak**. Photo looks N.

On the rock wall around the lookout tower’s viewing deck. Photo looks W.

Dave maintained that the highest natural point on Black Elk Peak was just outside the N wall of the lookout tower. Since the Highpointers Foundation is dedicated to education, support, and conservation of the highest point in each of the 50 U.S. states, Lupe figured Dave ought to know. The Carolina Dog made the little scramble up to it.

Looper at South Dakota’s natural high point.

Black Elk Peak wasn’t crowded, but it was busy. A nice 25 minute stay, and it was time to let others enjoy a bit more serenity. Besides, Dave needed to get over to that new bench along Trail No. 4!

*As South Dakota’s high point, **Black Elk Peak** is one of the most popular hikes in the Black Hills! Guess we’re about to head out again now.* Photo looks SSE.

Heading down the metal stairway that used to freak Lupe out. After 9 ascents, she’s fine with it now. Photo looks SE.

Trail No. 4 passes between the Cathedral Spires (6840 ft.) and Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.). At a point with a view of Black Elk Peak a mile to the N, Lupe came to the beautiful new bench donated by the Maura and Karen Raffensperger families and the Highpointers Foundation in memory of Grace Underwood Raffensperger. Many years ago, Grace had homesteaded in the Black Hills.

Lupe tests out the lovely new **Grace Raffensperger bench** along Trail No. 4.

*The **Cathedral Spires** are this close to the Raffensperger bench!*

5-31-20, 1:12 PM, 80ºF, Sylvan Lake – Back at Sylvan Lake, it was time for good-byes. Dave had to hit the road home to Colorado, and was soon on his way.

Last day of May already! Thanks to Dave’s visit, Lupe had finally gotten her 2020 mountain adventures off to a good, but much delayed start. With June just hours away, the Carolina Dog once again had high hopes for a spectacular Summer of 2020!

With **Dave Covill** at the **Raffensperger bench** along Trail No. 4, **Black Elk Wilderness**, South Dakota 5-31-20

**Dave Covill** (L) on **Devils Tower** 5-29-20 with friends **Justin Schaffer** (L), **Stephen Henry** (R) in back, and **Sheryl Lampert** in front. Guide **Lansdon Alcorn** (far R). Missouri Buttes in the distance.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Adventure

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 181 – Missouri Buttes, WY (11-6-16)

Highpointers Foundation

Nuckolls Ranch on Facebook

Devils Tower National Monument

The Legend of Devils Tower

Climb Devils Tower! – Devils Tower Lodge

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Black Hills, WY Expedition No. 181 – Missouri Buttes (11-6-16)

Well, Loopster, it’s all been kind of leading up to this lately. Don’t know if you are going to meet with any success today or not, but we’re at least going to try it.

Lupe wasn’t worried. She wasn’t paying any attention to SPHP at all. The eastern sky was just beginning to get light, but she could see cows, lots of big, beautiful, black cows, in the pastures along I90. The cow-crazed American Dingo was busy barking for all she was worth. A little later on, NW of Sundance along Hwys 14 & 24, there were herds of deer to entertain her, too.

Wyoming Hwy 24 goes right past America’s very first national monument. Lupe’s first stop of the day was a quick one to see Devil’s Tower (5,112 ft.). Not a soul was around early on a Sunday morning in November. The sun’s first rays struck the tower while Lupe was there to see it.

Lupe arrives at Devil’s Tower, America’s first national monument, in time to see the first rays of the morning sun on it. Photo looks W.

Devil's Tower in the early morning light. Photo looks W. — Devil’s Tower in the early morning light. Photo looks W.

Lupe and SPHP didn’t go into the national monument. Devil’s Tower is one peak Lupe is never going to bag unless she sprouts Dingo Wings. However, with a little luck, she was going to get to see the top of it today! After a good look at Devil’s Tower, Lupe and SPHP continued N on Hwy 24.

On 3 consecutive Black Hills Expeditions to the Bear Lodge Mountains, Lupe had seen distant views of both Devil’s Tower and the Missouri Buttes from a variety of vantage points. They are the most famous and dramatic landmarks in the entire NE Wyoming region. Although climbing Devil’s Tower was completely out of the question for the Carolina Dog, she was here now to try her luck climbing the Missouri Buttes (5,374 ft.).

SPHP had good reasons to believe Lupe might not make it. There are actually 4 separate buttes in the Missouri Buttes cluster. All are located within an area covering no more than 2 square miles about 4 miles NW of Devil’s Tower. The problem was, all of the Missouri Buttes are on private land. Lupe’s first hurdle was to find and secure permission from the landowner to enter the owner’s private property.

Even if permission could be secured to access the private property, there was another big problem. The only information SPHP found online about climbing Missouri Buttes was a trip report by PanamaRed on SummitPost.org indicating there was Class 3 & 4 scrambling with some exposure near the top of the highest NW Missouri Butte. Lupe and SPHP are up for some light Class 3, but anything approaching Class 4 just wasn’t going to happen.

Three miles N of Devil’s Tower junction, Lupe and SPHP left Highway 24 on Barlow Canyon Road. The gravel road crossed the Belle Fourche River, went a mile N, and then turned W.

Looking S at Devil's Tower from Barlow Canyon Road. Lupe loved this view. Not for the big rock in the distance. All those beautiful black cows were what caught her fancy! — Looking S at Devil’s Tower from Barlow Canyon Road. Lupe loved this view. Not for the big rock in the distance. All those beautiful black cows were what caught her fancy!

SPHP wasn’t certain where to go, but wound up at the Lake Guest Ranch headquarters located near the NW end of Missouri Buttes Lake. Even though it was early on a Sunday morning, SPHP received a friendly reception from a couple of ranch hands. The ranch owner was available to talk to!

Lupe on her way to seek permission to climb the Missouri Buttes.

SPHP was invited in to talk to the owner. The Lake Guest Ranch HQ was a pretty cool place inside. SPHP was hopeful. When SPHP explained to the owner why Lupe was here – to seek permission to climb the Missouri Buttes, the response was polite, but firm. The answer was no. The owner’s insurance wouldn’t allow it, it was hunting season and dangerous, etc.

The negative response was devastating! Well, not devastating – there are plenty of mountains in the world Lupe can climb – but it was disappointing. That was that, though, nothing could be done about it. Lupe wasn’t going to get to climb the Missouri Buttes. Until …

Until the Lake Guest Ranch owner said that he didn’t even own the land the 2 highest Missouri Buttes are on. Didn’t own the land?! Who did? It was part of the Nuckoll ranch. His neighbor J.W. Nuckoll owns the land came the response. SPHP was given a phone number for the Nuckoll ranch.

Back in the G6, SPHP tried the phone number. A recording, but no response. Hmmm. Didn’t we pass a sign or something for the Nuckoll ranch on the way here, Loop? I think we did.

Not sure, SPHP. Unless it was branded on the side of a cow, I wouldn’t have noticed!

Lupe and SPHP drove off from the Lake Guest Ranch looking for the Nuckoll ranch. Along Barlow Canyon Road, there it was. A mailbox said Nuckoll, and an old building nearby said something about Nuckoll sheep and wool. This was it! A driveway led more than a mile S into a side canyon before ending at two houses. A sign on the first one said J.W. & Thea Nuckoll.

J.W. was an old-timer. He was on oxygen, but was friendly when SPHP met him. SPHP explained why Lupe was here. J.W. said he had climbed the Missouri Buttes himself. He had even climbed Devil’s Tower! That was good, that was very good. Surely he would understand?

He did! Mr. Nuckoll agreed to let Lupe and SPHP climb the Missouri Buttes. He had even more good news. When SPHP asked how difficult a climb it was, Mr. Nuckoll told SPHP about a trail to the top of the highest NW Missouri Butte. That sounded great! SPHP then asked about the NE Missouri Butte, too. Mr. Nuckoll said it was even possible to ride a horse to the top of the NE butte. Lupe would have no problem! SPHP thanked Mr. Nuckoll, and went off to tell Lupe the good news.

In just a few minutes, Lupe was on her way (8:51 AM, 53°F)! The first part of the hike started farther along the driveway, beyond the two houses. For a short distance, Lupe was on a road continuing up the little canyon. There were lots of cows around. Lupe and SPHP climbed a forested slope heading SSW to avoid them. Up above, Lupe arrived at the edge of a huge gently sloping field. The highest NW Missouri Butte (5,374 ft.) was already in view!

Lupe arrives up at the huge, gently sloping field. The highest NW Missouri Butte was already in view. Photo looks SW.

The somewhat lower NE Missouri Butte (5,212 ft.) is closer to Devil’s Tower, and wasn’t any farther away than the highest NW Butte. Lupe and SPHP decided to go for the NE Missouri Butte first. Even though the SE end of the butte looked the most rugged, Lupe went over to take a look at it, and see if Devil’s Tower was in view.

Lupe approaching the NE Missouri Butte. Photo looks S.

Devil’s Tower was already in view even before Lupe started her climb up the NE Missouri Butte. Photo looks SE.

Looking NE before climbing the NE Missouri Butte.

The SE end of the NE Missouri Butte as seen from the N. The highest part of the NE Missouri Butte is close to this end, but the butte is much more easily climbed from the NW.

The SE end of the NE Missouri Butte was quite steep and rocky, but it didn’t look impossible to climb up from here. However, Lupe had already seen that the NW end of the butte was definitely easier. Lupe and SPHP went back around to the NW end, where Lupe made her ascent.

Slippery pine needles on a moderately steep slope were about all Lupe had to contend with going up. Before long, Lupe was at the true summit of the NE Missouri Butte, which proved to be near the SE end of the ridge. An old wooden cross was sticking up from a summit cairn near some of the highest rocks. The panoramic views toward the E were spectacular!

Of course, Devil’s Tower was the most striking landmark in view. Much farther away, Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.) and Inyan Kara (6,360 ft.) could be seen, too, although they didn’t show up all that well in the morning haze. Long pine-covered ridges with yellow cliffs, and the Belle Fourche River valley were off to the NE. To the W, Lupe could see her next peakbagging goal, the NW butte, which is highest of all the Missouri Buttes.

The highest NW Missouri Butte as seen from the 2nd highest NE Missouri Butte. Photo looks WNW.

The highest NW Missouri Butte again. A small part of Missouri Buttes Lake is in view along with the HQ of the Lake Guest Ranch. Photo looks W.

The Lake Guest Ranch HQ using the telephoto lens. Photo looks WSW.

Long pine-covered ridges with yellow cliffs dominated the views to the NE.

Lupe and SPHP took a break up on NE Missouri Butte. The views were really awesome. It was so wonderful that Mr. Nuckoll had granted Lupe permission to come and see this unique scene. Lupe could see the top of Devil’s Tower from here!

What a sight! Lupe could see the top of Devil's Tower from NE Missouri Butte. She didn't even have to climb the tower or take a helicopter up to see it. Photo looks SE. — What a sight! Lupe could see the top of Devil’s Tower from NE Missouri Butte. She didn’t even have to climb the tower or take a helicopter up to see it. Photo looks SE.

Looking SSW at a couple of the lower Missouri Buttes.

After 45 minutes spent enjoying the summit of the NE Missouri Butte, it was time for Lupe to go see if she could find the trail Mr. Nuckoll spoke of leading to the top of the highest NW Missouri Butte. Lupe went down the W slope of the NE Missouri Butte, and crossed the saddle over to the NW butte.

A big gash was visible on the NE side of the NW Missouri Butte, but it looked mighty steep and straight. Mr. Nuckoll had spoken of the trail up the butte making a sharp turn. SPHP didn’t think Lupe should try going up that NE gash. It didn’t look like there was any way a trail could make a sharp turn from there.

The post by PanamaRed on SummitPost.org didn’t say what route he had taken to the top, but SPHP had the impression from photos PanamaRed posted that he had climbed up from the NW. If that led to Class 3 & 4 scrambling, Lupe wouldn’t succeed in going up that way either.

Lupe started up the NW Missouri Butte from a boulder field at the base of the N face.

Lupe starts up the highest NW Missouri Butte. She went up the boulder field and then climbed through the trees to the base of the cliff. She then worked along the base of the cliff to the W (R). Photo looks SSW.

Lupe climbed up beyond the boulders into a zone of trees and bushes. It was steep going, but still doable. The worst part was the incredible number of low thorny bushes. They didn’t seem to bother Lupe, but SPHP had to watch carefully before grabbing on to anything.

When Lupe reached the base of the cliff, she worked her way to the W, still climbing steeply all the way among trees and thorny bushes. Her route led toward a couple of large rock protrusions sticking out to the N. About the time she got close to the first big rock formation, Lupe reached some steep grassy ground above most of the trees and thorny bushes.

It looked like there was a route continuing W (R) up a channel between rock formations. How high up this route went was difficult to see, although it looked like it might be possible to make a sharp turn to the E (L) near the top. Maybe that was the way to go? While pondering, SPHP suddenly realized Lupe was already on a very faint trail. The barely discernable trail went steeply up a ramp toward the E (L) from here.

Maybe it was best to check out the ramp first? The ramp went up to a high point where sunlight could be seen. May as well see what was on the other side of that high point, before attempting to negotiate the rocky channel.

The ramp was a relatively easy climb. In just a few minutes, Lupe and SPHP were at the top.

Lupe sits on a rock just above the top of the ramp. Photo looks W, back in the direction she came up the ramp. The ramp itself is not shown.

This view greeted Lupe at the top of the ramp on the N face of NW Missouri Butte. The NE Missouri Butte, where she had just been, is seen on the L. It turned out that the ramp did not end here. It made a sharp turn to the S (R) in front of the little tree that looks like it is growing out toward Devil's Tower. The ramp then leveled out, becoming an easy walk as it went S along the upper NE face of the butte. Photo looks SE. — This view greeted Lupe at the top of the ramp on the N face of NW Missouri Butte. The NE Missouri Butte, where she had just been, is seen on the L. It turned out that the ramp did not end here. It made a sharp turn to the S (R) in front of the little tree that looks like it is growing out toward Devil’s Tower. The ramp then leveled out, becoming an easy walk as it went S along the upper NE face of the butte. Photo looks SE.

Devil’s Tower and the NE Missouri Butte, where Lupe had just been, were both in view from the top of the ramp. Peering S around the corner to the NE side of the butte, SPHP was surprised and pleased to see that the ramp continued. It leveled out quite a bit as it traversed the NE face of the butte.

The ramp’s continuation was an easy walk, but didn’t go very far. It soon ended at place where a few rocky steps up brought Lupe onto the moderately sloping NE part of the summit area. The good news was that Lupe was almost to the top! A short walk through a forest of junipers would take her to the summit of the highest NW Missouri Butte. Her peakbagging success was assured!

The bad news was that Lupe’s nemesis was here, too, in great profusion! The first thing SPHP saw upon gaining the summit area was cactus. Lots of big cacti clusters were scattered around. Lupe would have to be carried the rest of the way to the true summit.

Cacti like these grew in large patches scattered around the summit area. Lupe had to be carried the last 150 feet to the true summit of the NW Missouri Butte.

So, Lupe wound up being toted the last 150 feet to the true summit of the highest NW Missouri Butte. She took her summit break there, under strict orders not to move around. She wanted to be where SPHP was anyway, so it all worked out fine.

Lupe reaches the summit of the NW Missouri Butte, the highest of them all! Photo looks NNE.

There was an old radio tower on top of the NW Missouri Butte. The shack was unlocked and open. It was full of dirty, apparently unusable, old electronic equipment. Much of the summit area on NW Missouri Butte is covered with juniper trees like those seen here, although the area of the true summit where Lupe is, was largely free of them.

PanamaRed had posted a photo of the Missouri Buttes USGS survey benchmark, but at first SPHP didn’t see it. A brief search revealed it partially hidden by a bush along the very NW edge of the summit, a little way W of the highest rocks.

This Missouri Buttes USGS survey benchmark was partially hidden by a bush along the very NW edge of the summit area. It was not right at the highest rocks.

The Missouri Buttes USGS survey benchmark is seen at (Center) near the bottom of this photo. Photo looks W.

The best views from the NW Missouri Butte in the vicinity of the true summit were the panoramic views to the W and N. Junipers blocked the views in other directions. Even though the air was rather hazy, it was still possible to see the outline of the Bighorn Mountains to the W. Off to the NW and N, there was nothing higher than NW Missouri Butte anywhere in sight.

Lupe near the true summit. Photo looks W. The Bighorn Mountains could be seen on the horizon, but don't show up in the photo. Lupe assures you, they are out there! — Lupe near the true summit. Photo looks W. The Bighorn Mountains could be seen on the horizon, but don’t show up in the photo. Lupe assures you, they are out there!

Looking down at land immediately to the W of NW Missouri Butte. Missouri Butte Road leads right to the NW Missouri Butte, but may not be entirely on the Nuckoll ranch. Access to it was from the road leading to the Lake Guest Ranch. Lupe didn't start her trek from down there anyway, although it would have been a much closer starting point. — Looking down at land immediately to the W of NW Missouri Butte. Missouri Butte Road leads right to the NW Missouri Butte, but may not be entirely on the Nuckoll ranch. Access to it was from the road leading to the Lake Guest Ranch. Lupe didn’t start her trek from down there anyway, although it would have been a much closer starting point.

Thanks to Mr. Nuckolls kindly granting permission to be on his land, Lupe got to visit the top of this highest Missouri Butte. Photo looks NE.

Lupe at the true summit. There were cliffs just beyond the rocks. Photo looks N.

Cliffs along the N edge. Photo looks NE.

After 25 or 30 minutes relaxing near the true summit, it was time to explore the SW part of the summit area, which was hidden by juniper trees. SPHP had to carry Lupe for fear of the cacti, but she didn’t mind getting a free ride. From the SW end of the summit area, it was possible to see the Lake Guest Ranch HQ and Missouri Butte Lake.

Missouri Buttes Lake and the Lake Guest Ranch HQ (seen to the R of the lake). Photo looks SW.

Lupe also had a clear view of the 2 lower S Missouri Buttes.

The 2 lower S Missouri Buttes as seen from the SW end of the NW Missouri Butte summit. Photo looks S.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the summit for a final look around. Lupe then got carried back down to the NE end of the summit area near the start of the ramp. Before taking the ramp down, Lupe checked out the views from this end of NW Missouri Butte.

Lupe at the NE end of the NW Missouri Butte summit. She had a fabulous view of the NE Missouri Butte (L) and Devil's Tower (R) from here. Photo looks ESE. — Lupe at the NE end of the NW Missouri Butte summit. She had a fabulous view of the NE Missouri Butte (L) and Devil’s Tower (R) from here. Photo looks ESE.

Devil's Tower from NW Missouri Butte. Photo looks SE. — Devil’s Tower from NW Missouri Butte. Photo looks SE.

Lupe took the ramp all the way back down to its beginning on the steep grassy slope near the large rock protrusions where SPHP first noticed the very faint trail. Now that it was clear there actually was a trail, it was possible to see it continuing on down the mountain.

The trail went down to a much larger boulder field than the one Lupe had crossed coming up. This area was well to the W of the area of trees and thorny bushes below the cliff Lupe had been in earlier. Lupe went all the way down the boulder field, passed through a couple of stands of trees, and reached the pasture below the N face of NW Missouri Butte.

From near a stock pond, it was possible to get a good look at the best route up the mountain.

View along the cliffs near the top of the N face of NW Missouri Butte. Note the orange coloration on some of the rocks. (Probably orange lichens.) Photo looks W as Lupe was about to go down the steep part of the ramp (not pictured).

Lupe makes it down off the butte. NE Missouri Butte is in view beyond the stock pond. Photo looks E.

The easiest route up the NW Missouri Butte is visible in this photo taken from near the stock pond. Photo looks S at the N face of the butte. The easiest route up is through the trees on the W (R) to the loose rocks. Climb the loose rocks up to the trees below the orange spot near the center of the top of the butte. From there, the ramp leads to the E (L) up along the trees and bushes seen to the L of the orange spot. The ramp then curls around the E (L) side of the mountain (out of view) to gain the NE slope of the summit area. Easy, squeezy! Class 2 or Class 3 Lite all the way!

Lupe and SPHP originally came up through the trees and thorny bushes from the lower L. Not the best way to do it! Come up from the R, get through the trees to the steep grassy area below the orange spot, then go L up the ramp. The trail should become visible while still among the loose rocks before reaching the trees below the orange spot. Photo looks N.

Lupe had climbed both the highest Missouri Buttes. Her Expedition No. 181 was an unqualified peakbagging success! However, there was still a lot of daylight left. Why not go take another look from the top of the NE Missouri Butte? A few hours had gone by, and the sun would be shining from another angle. There was only a little bit of cactus up there that SPHP had seen at the far SE end. Lupe could avoid it easily.

Lupe was fine with going back up. So once again, she climbed the W slope and then followed the summit ridge SE to the top of the NE Missouri Butte. With the afternoon sun now lighting up the near side of Devil’s Tower, the view was even better than earlier in the day.

Devil's Tower in the afternoon sun from NE Missouri Butte. Photo looks SE using the telephoto lens. — Devil’s Tower in the afternoon sun from NE Missouri Butte. Photo looks SE using the telephoto lens.

Inyan Kara Mountain is seen faintly on the far R horizon.

Hmmm. That Carolina Dog looks a bit familiar! So does that odd tree stump-shaped rock in the distance.

Lupe and SPHP spent another 30 beautiful minutes up on the NE Missouri Butte. Then it was time to call it a day. SPHP had told Mr. Nuckoll that it would be great to get a chance to talk to him some more when Lupe returned from Missouri Buttes. It was probably best to get there well before the Nuckolls wanted to have their supper.

Lupe left NE Missouri Butte for the 2nd and final time. She liked crossing the huge, wide open pasture, and going through the forest on the way back. Before long, she was back at the Nuckoll’s house (3:26 PM, 55°F).

Looking S at one of the lower Missouri Buttes on the way down the NE Missouri Butte.

NW Missouri Butte on the way back. Photo looks W.

No one was around. SPHP checked both homes, but there was no one to thank for the wonderful day Lupe had on the Missouri Buttes. No telling where the Nuckolls had gone, or when they might return. SPHP left a note in the door.

Then a very lucky American Dingo, one which had been to the top of the two highest Missouri Buttes, enjoyed a noisy evening drive past herds of cattle and deer on her way home.Links:

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