Days 39 – 42 of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
9-12-19, 7:34 AM, 35ºF, S Klondike Hwy just S of Carcross – Pavement at last! It had taken the G6 nearly an hour to creep a little over 4 miles down stony, steep Montana Mountain Road. No worries now! Smooth sailing for the next 2,200+ miles. Lupe was on her way home.
Yes, there was still some thought of climbing Mount White (5,016 ft.), but Montana Mountain had been a big day. SPHP really didn’t feel up to it, and a glance over at the American Dingo said she wouldn’t have any objections if it didn’t happen. So SPHP skipped the turn S off Tagish Road onto Hwy 7, waiting instead to head E on the Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner a few miles later.
So it was over as far as mountain climbing on this Dingo Vacation. That didn’t mean Loopster couldn’t do a little sightseeing along the way. By mid-morning she felt up to her traditional stop at Teslin Lake for a look at the Dawson Peaks.
It wasn’t until mid-afternoon E of Watson Lake that things started to get more interesting. First up was a pleasant 30 minute walk on a dirt road leading into a forest that a sign said was part of the Kaska Nation. Lupe found a squirrel to bark at. That excitement was followed by a short stop at rapids along the Liard River.
The squirrel had been just a warm-up. Far more exciting things were ahead. Bears and bison!
Lupe barked herself into a complete frazzle! So she didn’t mind relaxing in the G6 when SPHP stopped in at Liard River Hot Springs for an hour long pleasant soak. By evening the Carolina Dog had made it all the way to Muncho Lake Provincial Park.
9-13-19, 6:15 AM – It was barely light out when Lupe hit the road again. On the way out of Muncho Lake Provincial Park, 2 moose got the day off to a rousing start. The sun was just coming up when the American Dingo reached the Racing River. Time to keep a promise!
Just before the bridge, a dirt road left the Alaska Highway on the R. SPHP pulled in and parked.
The great day has finally arrived, Looper! Wha’dya say we have that romp we’ve always been meaning to take up the Racing River? See what we can find?
Loopster was all in! Bursting with energy after a day of rest, she could hardly wait. For years now, the Racing River had been a favorite quick stop between Muncho Lake and Stone Mountain Provincial Park. She’d always spent a little while looking for squirrels in the forest, but had never really gotten to do much exploring. This was her big chance!
9-13-19, 7:35 AM, 38ºF, Racing River – Chilly, but a gorgeous morning! A short trot through the forest on the dirt road took Loop past some superb dispersed camping sites, then on to the Racing River itself. The river was a fabulous glacial blue! Downstream, the first rays of sunlight were just hitting Peak 4388.
Lupe was heading upstream. For a little while yet, the river valley in that direction was still in shadow. Open ground up on the river bank made progress easy as Loop followed the Racing River S. She soon veered off into a big field, which was as far as she’d ever made it on a quick initial reconnaissance last year.
Lupe continued upstream, sometimes exploring away from the river, but often returning to it, since the Racing River was so stunningly beautiful. As soon as the sun peeped over the mountains, the day started warming up nicely. Peak 7203, the high point of a long light-colored ridge, was in sight farther up the valley.
45 minutes into her journey, the Carolina Dog came to a side channel that had enough flow in it to keep her from continuing along the Racing River’s main course. Lupe followed the side channel upstream hoping either to find a way across, or that it would rejoin the main channel at some point.
She wound up sniffing in the forest quite a bit, returning only now and then to the side channel.
No luck! The side channel did not rejoin the main course. The farther Lupe followed it, the muckier and less appealing prospects for crossing it became. The American Dingo was forced to spent more and more time in the forest, which was becoming taller and thicker as she pressed on. This wasn’t too much of a problem, since there were plenty of animal trails to follow.
Just when it looked like the situation was about to improve, a swampy region forced Lupe even farther from the main river. She soon came to an ancient beaver pond blocking the way forward.
The dam was old and decrepit, clearly no beaver had been here in ages.
OK, so maybe there was a live beaver around here somewhere, but it couldn’t have been a terribly ambitious one, or its dam and pond would have been in better shape. At any rate, it looked like Lupe’s Racing River adventure had come to an end.
An attempt to cross the beaver dam lead only to what was either the last remains of the side channel, or a swampy pool. Hardly mattered which. Lupe had given it her best shot. She had enjoyed a marvelous, fun trek along the Racing River, but with no way to get back to the main channel, it was time to turn back.
The retreat was about to begin, when SPHP suddenly had a brilliant idea. Maybe Looper had left the beaver dam too soon? Perhaps it kept going across the rest of this swamp, too? Returning to the beaver dam, it turned out it did go farther! The Carolina Dog continued across it.
Hey! Hey! The manuever worked! Lupe got past the swamp in nothing flat. Back in business! A short trek through the forest brought Loop to the lovely Racing River again.
As Lupe continued upstream, the forest grew denser and extended all the way to the riverbank. Still animal trails to follow, but with fewer and fewer opportunities to actually see the river, how much farther did it make sense go?
Looper had no concerns at all about that. She pressed on, having a grand time in the forest.
Two hours after leaving the G6, it didn’t look like the situation was about to change anytime soon. Maybe this was far enough? As wonderful as the Racing River was, the long road was calling Lupe home. Happy as she could be, the American Dingo enjoyed a few minutes relaxing by the incredibly blue Racing River. This was her point of furthest advance.
Of course, the fun wasn’t over. Lupe had the whole return trip to enjoy, too. The American Dingo retraced her forest wanderings back to where she’d reached the river after crossing the beaver dam.
After crossing the beaver dam again, Lupe wanted to explore more of the territory away from the river. Sure. Why not?
Toward the end, where the forest was thinner and the ground more open, it was back to the Racing River for the final, easy downstream stroll. What a perfect day!
All too soon, the Alaska Highway bridge was in sight again. Lupe went all the way to it. Still 2.5 long days of driving left to get home. Oh, there would still be stops along the way, but this marvelous trek along the Racing River way up in northern British Columbia was the last really “big” adventure of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation. Once Lupe crossed this bridge, it would all pass into history.
What a grand time it had been! So many adventures that hadn’t panned out, but plenty of unexpected twists and turns, and great successes, too!
9-13-19, 11:08 AM, 68ºF, at the G6 near the Racing River –
Terribly sorry, Loop, but I’ve looked everywhere. We don’t seem to have a raft with us.
That’s a pity, SPHP! Such a perfect day for rafting the Racing River, too!
It sure is, Looper! We’ll have to come back another time, I guess.
Well, next time make sure to bring the raft. And a map of Peak 4388, too, so we can climb it before we sail away.
I’ll do it Loop! Some day we’ll stand together on the top of Peak 4388.
Promise, SPHP?
I promise.
By noon, Lupe was at Summit Lake in Stone Mountain Provincial Park with another unfinished project in view. Beyond the lake stood Mount Saint George (7,402 ft.). In 2017, Lupe had succeeded in climbing Mount Saint Paul (6,985 ft.) here. She had nearly made it to the top of Mount Saint George, too, but fog rolled in and a storm had chased her off the mountain.
Great times! Fun to be here and think about them again.
An hour later, the Carolina Dog was out of the mountains. Although she could still see the northern Rockies, she wouldn’t be back in them again. For hundreds of miles S of Fort Nelson, the G6 rolled through a region of big flat-topped ridges separated by deep river valleys.
Definitely autumn. The drive was gorgeous! So many yellow leaves! Now and then even more brilliant colors, too.
It was nearly dark by the time Lupe crossed the Peace River at Taylor.
9-14-19, 5:44 AM, 50ºF – No more messing around! Lupe hit the road at first light. Hundreds of miles to go, so not going to be many stops today. One did come fairly early on, though, shortly after reaching Alberta. The Carolina Dog wanted to pay a visit to Valhalla Centre, which turns out to be located on Hwy 59, a fact even SPHP had been unaware of before. Since Valhalla has a fabulous reputation, and was basically along the way, SPHP had no objections to dropping in for a few minutes.
Maybe it was the off-season? After all, it was already after Labor Day. A Saturday, too, so maybe Valhalla was simply closed for the weekend? Whatever the reason, the sky was gloomy and gray when Lupe arrived. The only thing happening was a bit of dreary drizzle. Instead of being Epic, Triumphant, & Glorious, Valhalla Centre was distinctly ho-hum.
Not at all what I thought it would be, SPHP.
Me either, Loop.
Not even a lone gleaming ray of sunlight breaking through towering clouds, or a single trumpet blast! Where are the cheering crowds, rose petal-strewn streets of gold, the shining city and mighty fortress? I was hoping to partake of the victory feast.
Doesn’t look like they were expecting us Looper. Maybe we haven’t done enough epic stuff yet?
What are you talking about, SPHP? We’re just finishing up our Grand Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska! We made it to the Arctic Circle, climbed countless mighty mountains, braved smoke, wind, rain, and snow. Isn’t that epic enough?
Oh, you know how it is, Loop. No matter what one does, someone else has done it faster, stronger, higher, longer. We might not be anywhere close to having earned a spot in Valhalla. Maybe we’re just on some waiting list, way down near the bottom?
Oh, pooh! The least they could have done is have a few Dingo treats around. Not even a cat is here to welcome us.
Well, maybe we were supposed to fill out an application before showing up. You know how it is, times change. The bureaucracy wants all its i’s dotted and t’s crossed these days.
Bureaucracy! It isn’t Valhalla, if there’s bureaucracy!
Loopster had a point, but she was here now, so she might as well get out and have a quick look around. The most impressive building in Valhalla Centre was an old-time style white church.
SPHP had scarcely let the American Dingo out of the G6 when she pooped on the lawn.
Lupe! Really? Did you have to do that? Here in Valhalla, no less!
As a matter of fact, I did. When you gotta go, you gotta go!
I suppose. And here I was thinking that someday we might be moving to Valhalla permanently, but it’s never going to happen, if you’re busy racking up demerits every time we drop by.
Move here? Now that I’ve actually seen Valhalla, I think I’d rather stay at home in the Black Hills. Or if you want to move, remember that cute Dingo bunkhouse in Keno City up in the Yukon Territory? Maybe it’s still for sale?
Maybe. We’ll worry about that later. Let’s clean this mess up and get outta here before anyone notices.
A nice break at a little park in Marshall, Saskatchewan was the only other significant stop of the day.
Long after sunset, the G6 finally rested S of Chamberlain beneath a full harvest moon. An 831 mile day. Ugh!
9-15-19, 4:33 AM, 50ºF – The harvest moon was pioneering in the W. Still dark. Breezy and comfortably cool. A few minutes to stretch outside, and Lupe was on the road again. Within minutes, the American Dingo was all riled up! Oh, it was going to be a glorious day! Lupe knew that scent anywhere. This was cattle country!
Loopster couldn’t see the cows she was barking at, but sniffing them was good enough; her enormous enthusiasm for the project was undeterred. SPHP finally pulled into a rest area along Hwy 6. This was the same rest area Lupe had first been to exactly a year ago.
Morning in Saskatchewan! As long as the Carolina Dog was still in Canada, it didn’t feel like her Dingo Vacation was over quite yet. A tour of the premises, breakfast, then a little while spent picking up trash. Not nearly as much of it this time around. Maybe last year’s efforts really had made a difference?
9-15-19, 7:45 AM, Saskatchewan, at the rest area along Hwy 6 –
Come on, Looper! No more prolonging the inevitable. Time to say good-bye to Canada!
Lupe hopped into the G6, and settled comfortably on her pink blanket as always. Still almost an hour’s drive to the Montana border at Regway. The border wouldn’t be a problem. Plenty of cows to bark at both before and after.
70ºF, clear and calm in Sidney, Montana, but it was 93ºF by the time Loop made it to Baker. A quick stop at Reynold’s market for a box of mint chip Eskimo pies to share on the road. They were gone in a jiffy.
Middle of September! Why does it have to be so beastly out? Always seems like we’re coming back to Mordor!
Don’t look at me, SPHP! You’re the one who was in such a rush to get back!
Eastern Montana was beautiful in an Old West high plains sort of way, but it sure looked and felt parched. Clouds of grasshoppers and yellow butterflies blew across the highway, swept along on a blazing hot SW breeze.
9-15-19, 4:40 PM, Black Hills of South Dakota – Home again. 94ºF! The house was even more of an oven than that. All closed up and sweltering hot! Must have had a bunch of rain sometime, though. Instead of dead and brown, the lawn was exceptionally green and long.
A few more weeks, and we’d need a machete to get to the front door! Guess we’re going to have to get back to chores before they condemn this joint, Looper.
It’s over, isn’t it, SPHP?
Your 2019 Dingo Vacation? Yeah, I’m afraid so. Feels like we left Alaska way too soon, doesn’t it?
Lupe didn’t say anything, just sighed and laid down on the carpet staring out the living room window. Oh, to be back again in the chill mountain air among the pom-poms and wild forests along the banks of the glacial blue Racing River!
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SO sad to see the end of another season’s adventures. Hope there’s more to come. Chinle
I remember driving by the Racing River once and thinking how beautiful it was. Thanks for the hike up it, very special. Great photos, as usual. Liz