2019 Yukon & Alaska – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Along the Racing River & the Long Road Home, Canada (9-12-19 thru 9-15-19)

Days 39 – 42 of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

9-12-19, 7:34 AM, 35ºF, S Klondike Hwy just S of Carcross – Pavement at last! It had taken the G6 nearly an hour to creep a little over 4 miles down stony, steep Montana Mountain Road. No worries now! Smooth sailing for the next 2,200+ miles. Lupe was on her way home.

Yes, there was still some thought of climbing Mount White (5,016 ft.), but Montana Mountain had been a big day. SPHP really didn’t feel up to it, and a glance over at the American Dingo said she wouldn’t have any objections if it didn’t happen. So SPHP skipped the turn S off Tagish Road onto Hwy 7, waiting instead to head E on the Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner a few miles later.

So it was over as far as mountain climbing on this Dingo Vacation. That didn’t mean Loopster couldn’t do a little sightseeing along the way. By mid-morning she felt up to her traditional stop at Teslin Lake for a look at the Dawson Peaks.

**Dawson Peaks** (Center) from **Teslin Lake**. Photo looks SSE.

It wasn’t until mid-afternoon E of Watson Lake that things started to get more interesting. First up was a pleasant 30 minute walk on a dirt road leading into a forest that a sign said was part of the Kaska Nation. Lupe found a squirrel to bark at. That excitement was followed by a short stop at rapids along the Liard River.

**Liard River** from the Alaska Highway.

The squirrel had been just a warm-up. Far more exciting things were ahead. Bears and bison!

Lupe barked herself into a complete frazzle! So she didn’t mind relaxing in the G6 when SPHP stopped in at Liard River Hot Springs for an hour long pleasant soak. By evening the Carolina Dog had made it all the way to Muncho Lake Provincial Park.

**Muncho Lake** with **Peterson Mountain** (L) in the distance. Photo looks SSW.

Approaching **Peterson Mountain** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

9-13-19, 6:15 AM – It was barely light out when Lupe hit the road again. On the way out of Muncho Lake Provincial Park, 2 moose got the day off to a rousing start. The sun was just coming up when the American Dingo reached the Racing River. Time to keep a promise!

Just before the bridge, a dirt road left the Alaska Highway on the R. SPHP pulled in and parked.

The great day has finally arrived, Looper! Wha’dya say we have that romp we’ve always been meaning to take up the Racing River? See what we can find?

Loopster was all in! Bursting with energy after a day of rest, she could hardly wait. For years now, the Racing River had been a favorite quick stop between Muncho Lake and Stone Mountain Provincial Park. She’d always spent a little while looking for squirrels in the forest, but had never really gotten to do much exploring. This was her big chance!

9-13-19, 7:35 AM, 38ºF, Racing River – Chilly, but a gorgeous morning! A short trot through the forest on the dirt road took Loop past some superb dispersed camping sites, then on to the Racing River itself. The river was a fabulous glacial blue! Downstream, the first rays of sunlight were just hitting Peak 4388.

*Someday we ought to climb **Peak 4388** (L), SPHP!* Photo looks NE.

Lupe was heading upstream. For a little while yet, the river valley in that direction was still in shadow. Open ground up on the river bank made progress easy as Loop followed the Racing River S. She soon veered off into a big field, which was as far as she’d ever made it on a quick initial reconnaissance last year.

A quick glance downstream at the spreading sunshine. **Peak 4388** (R). Photo looks NNE.

Loop already about as far as she got in 2018. Photo looks SW.

Lupe continued upstream, sometimes exploring away from the river, but often returning to it, since the Racing River was so stunningly beautiful. As soon as the sun peeped over the mountains, the day started warming up nicely. Peak 7203, the high point of a long light-colored ridge, was in sight farther up the valley.

**Peak 7203** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

A glorious morning! **Peak 7203** (R). Photo looks SSW.

Checking out the downstream view again. **Peak 4388** (L). Photo looks NE.

*The **Racing River** is so beautiful!* Photo looks S.

*Of course, the forest is mighty nice, too, fellow squirrel fans!*

45 minutes into her journey, the Carolina Dog came to a side channel that had enough flow in it to keep her from continuing along the Racing River’s main course. Lupe followed the side channel upstream hoping either to find a way across, or that it would rejoin the main channel at some point.

Along the stony, mucky side channel. Photo looks SW.

She wound up sniffing in the forest quite a bit, returning only now and then to the side channel.

At least the main course of the **Racing River** wasn’t too far away. Photo looks S.

No luck! The side channel did not rejoin the main course. The farther Lupe followed it, the muckier and less appealing prospects for crossing it became. The American Dingo was forced to spent more and more time in the forest, which was becoming taller and thicker as she pressed on. This wasn’t too much of a problem, since there were plenty of animal trails to follow.

*Muckier than ever, SPHP!* Photo looks S.

Just when it looked like the situation was about to improve, a swampy region forced Lupe even farther from the main river. She soon came to an ancient beaver pond blocking the way forward.

Blocked by a long abandoned beaver pond. Photo looks SW.

The dam was old and decrepit, clearly no beaver had been here in ages.

*No beaver in ages? You sure about that, SPHP? This looks mighty fresh to me!*

OK, so maybe there was a live beaver around here somewhere, but it couldn’t have been a terribly ambitious one, or its dam and pond would have been in better shape. At any rate, it looked like Lupe’s Racing River adventure had come to an end.

*Follow me, SPHP! Let’s just cross this beaver dam! Looks like its going the right way.*

An attempt to cross the beaver dam lead only to what was either the last remains of the side channel, or a swampy pool. Hardly mattered which. Lupe had given it her best shot. She had enjoyed a marvelous, fun trek along the Racing River, but with no way to get back to the main channel, it was time to turn back.

*The dam keeps going, SPHP! You left it too soon!*

The retreat was about to begin, when SPHP suddenly had a brilliant idea. Maybe Looper had left the beaver dam too soon? Perhaps it kept going across the rest of this swamp, too? Returning to the beaver dam, it turned out it did go farther! The Carolina Dog continued across it.

Hey! Hey! The manuever worked! Lupe got past the swamp in nothing flat. Back in business! A short trek through the forest brought Loop to the lovely Racing River again.

*Good job, SPHP! Told ya it would work!* Photo looks NE.

As Lupe continued upstream, the forest grew denser and extended all the way to the riverbank. Still animal trails to follow, but with fewer and fewer opportunities to actually see the river, how much farther did it make sense go?

Looper had no concerns at all about that. She pressed on, having a grand time in the forest.

Two hours after leaving the G6, it didn’t look like the situation was about to change anytime soon. Maybe this was far enough? As wonderful as the Racing River was, the long road was calling Lupe home. Happy as she could be, the American Dingo enjoyed a few minutes relaxing by the incredibly blue Racing River. This was her point of furthest advance.

*Let’s keep going forever, SPHP! ….. I’d like nothing better, Loop!*

Of course, the fun wasn’t over. Lupe had the whole return trip to enjoy, too. The American Dingo retraced her forest wanderings back to where she’d reached the river after crossing the beaver dam.

**Peak 4388** with help from the telephoto lens.

*Hey, SPHP! When we get back to the G6, look in the trunk and see if we have a raft! Who knows where this might go?*

After crossing the beaver dam again, Lupe wanted to explore more of the territory away from the river. Sure. Why not?

Toward the end, where the forest was thinner and the ground more open, it was back to the Racing River for the final, easy downstream stroll. What a perfect day!

Back to the **Racing River**. Photo looks NE.

Similar view with help from the telephoto lens.

All too soon, the Alaska Highway bridge was in sight again. Lupe went all the way to it. Still 2.5 long days of driving left to get home. Oh, there would still be stops along the way, but this marvelous trek along the Racing River way up in northern British Columbia was the last really “big” adventure of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation. Once Lupe crossed this bridge, it would all pass into history.

What a grand time it had been! So many adventures that hadn’t panned out, but plenty of unexpected twists and turns, and great successes, too!

9-13-19, 11:08 AM, 68ºF, at the G6 near the Racing River –

Terribly sorry, Loop, but I’ve looked everywhere. We don’t seem to have a raft with us.

That’s a pity, SPHP! Such a perfect day for rafting the Racing River, too!

It sure is, Looper! We’ll have to come back another time, I guess.

Well, next time make sure to bring the raft. And a map of Peak 4388, too, so we can climb it before we sail away.

I’ll do it Loop! Some day we’ll stand together on the top of Peak 4388.

Promise, SPHP?

I promise.

By noon, Lupe was at Summit Lake in Stone Mountain Provincial Park with another unfinished project in view. Beyond the lake stood Mount Saint George (7,402 ft.). In 2017, Lupe had succeeded in climbing Mount Saint Paul (6,985 ft.) here. She had nearly made it to the top of Mount Saint George, too, but fog rolled in and a storm had chased her off the mountain.

Great times! Fun to be here and think about them again.

At **Summit Lake**. **Mount Saint George** (L). Photo looks SW.

An hour later, the Carolina Dog was out of the mountains. Although she could still see the northern Rockies, she wouldn’t be back in them again. For hundreds of miles S of Fort Nelson, the G6 rolled through a region of big flat-topped ridges separated by deep river valleys.

Looking back at the northern Rockies. Photo looks W.

Unknown peaks with help from the telephoto lens.

Getting farther from the mountains. Photo looks SW.

Same view with help from the telephoto lens.

Definitely autumn. The drive was gorgeous! So many yellow leaves! Now and then even more brilliant colors, too.

S of Fort Nelson in the land of big ridges.

Last bear of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation.

It was nearly dark by the time Lupe crossed the Peace River at Taylor.

9-14-19, 5:44 AM, 50ºF – No more messing around! Lupe hit the road at first light. Hundreds of miles to go, so not going to be many stops today. One did come fairly early on, though, shortly after reaching Alberta. The Carolina Dog wanted to pay a visit to Valhalla Centre, which turns out to be located on Hwy 59, a fact even SPHP had been unaware of before. Since Valhalla has a fabulous reputation, and was basically along the way, SPHP had no objections to dropping in for a few minutes.

Maybe it was the off-season? After all, it was already after Labor Day. A Saturday, too, so maybe Valhalla was simply closed for the weekend? Whatever the reason, the sky was gloomy and gray when Lupe arrived. The only thing happening was a bit of dreary drizzle. Instead of being Epic, Triumphant, & Glorious, Valhalla Centre was distinctly ho-hum.

Not at all what I thought it would be, SPHP.

Me either, Loop.

Not even a lone gleaming ray of sunlight breaking through towering clouds, or a single trumpet blast! Where are the cheering crowds, rose petal-strewn streets of gold, the shining city and mighty fortress? I was hoping to partake of the victory feast.

Doesn’t look like they were expecting us Looper. Maybe we haven’t done enough epic stuff yet?

What are you talking about, SPHP? We’re just finishing up our Grand Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska! We made it to the Arctic Circle, climbed countless mighty mountains, braved smoke, wind, rain, and snow. Isn’t that epic enough?

Oh, you know how it is, Loop. No matter what one does, someone else has done it faster, stronger, higher, longer. We might not be anywhere close to having earned a spot in Valhalla. Maybe we’re just on some waiting list, way down near the bottom?

Oh, pooh! The least they could have done is have a few Dingo treats around. Not even a cat is here to welcome us.

Well, maybe we were supposed to fill out an application before showing up. You know how it is, times change. The bureaucracy wants all its i’s dotted and t’s crossed these days.

Bureaucracy! It isn’t Valhalla, if there’s bureaucracy!

Loopster had a point, but she was here now, so she might as well get out and have a quick look around. The most impressive building in Valhalla Centre was an old-time style white church.

The white church. Most impressive building in Valhalla Centre, Alberta.

SPHP had scarcely let the American Dingo out of the G6 when she pooped on the lawn.

Lupe! Really? Did you have to do that? Here in Valhalla, no less!

As a matter of fact, I did. When you gotta go, you gotta go!

I suppose. And here I was thinking that someday we might be moving to Valhalla permanently, but it’s never going to happen, if you’re busy racking up demerits every time we drop by.

Move here? Now that I’ve actually seen Valhalla, I think I’d rather stay at home in the Black Hills. Or if you want to move, remember that cute Dingo bunkhouse in Keno City up in the Yukon Territory? Maybe it’s still for sale?

Maybe. We’ll worry about that later. Let’s clean this mess up and get outta here before anyone notices.

A nice break at a little park in Marshall, Saskatchewan was the only other significant stop of the day.

Long after sunset, the G6 finally rested S of Chamberlain beneath a full harvest moon. An 831 mile day. Ugh!

9-15-19, 4:33 AM, 50ºF – The harvest moon was pioneering in the W. Still dark. Breezy and comfortably cool. A few minutes to stretch outside, and Lupe was on the road again. Within minutes, the American Dingo was all riled up! Oh, it was going to be a glorious day! Lupe knew that scent anywhere. This was cattle country!

Loopster couldn’t see the cows she was barking at, but sniffing them was good enough; her enormous enthusiasm for the project was undeterred. SPHP finally pulled into a rest area along Hwy 6. This was the same rest area Lupe had first been to exactly a year ago.

Morning in Saskatchewan! As long as the Carolina Dog was still in Canada, it didn’t feel like her Dingo Vacation was over quite yet. A tour of the premises, breakfast, then a little while spent picking up trash. Not nearly as much of it this time around. Maybe last year’s efforts really had made a difference?

9-15-19, 7:45 AM, Saskatchewan, at the rest area along Hwy 6 –

Come on, Looper! No more prolonging the inevitable. Time to say good-bye to Canada!

Lupe hopped into the G6, and settled comfortably on her pink blanket as always. Still almost an hour’s drive to the Montana border at Regway. The border wouldn’t be a problem. Plenty of cows to bark at both before and after.

70ºF, clear and calm in Sidney, Montana, but it was 93ºF by the time Loop made it to Baker. A quick stop at Reynold’s market for a box of mint chip Eskimo pies to share on the road. They were gone in a jiffy.

Middle of September! Why does it have to be so beastly out? Always seems like we’re coming back to Mordor!

Don’t look at me, SPHP! You’re the one who was in such a rush to get back!

Eastern Montana was beautiful in an Old West high plains sort of way, but it sure looked and felt parched. Clouds of grasshoppers and yellow butterflies blew across the highway, swept along on a blazing hot SW breeze.

9-15-19, 4:40 PM, Black Hills of South Dakota – Home again. 94ºF! The house was even more of an oven than that. All closed up and sweltering hot! Must have had a bunch of rain sometime, though. Instead of dead and brown, the lawn was exceptionally green and long.

A few more weeks, and we’d need a machete to get to the front door! Guess we’re going to have to get back to chores before they condemn this joint, Looper.

It’s over, isn’t it, SPHP?

Your 2019 Dingo Vacation? Yeah, I’m afraid so. Feels like we left Alaska way too soon, doesn’t it?

Lupe didn’t say anything, just sighed and laid down on the carpet staring out the living room window. Oh, to be back again in the chill mountain air among the pom-poms and wild forests along the banks of the glacial blue Racing River!

Along the **Racing River**, British Columbia, Canada 9-13-19

Links:

Prior Adventure

Next Dingo Vacation This Dingo Vacation Prior Dingo Vacation

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Montana Mountain, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-11-19)

Days 37 & 38 of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

9-10-19, 7:55 AM, 37ºF – Good-bye Donjek River! Lupe was heading S. Stars last night, but no sign of the northern lights. A beautiful, clear early fall morning today with no sign of yesterday’s smoky haze.

For a travel day, the morning got off to an exciting start. A grizzly bear! Now that was something worth barking about! The Carolina Dog gave it her foaming-at-the-mouth best.

Grizzly along the Alaska Highway 4 or 5 miles NW of Burwash Landing.

A little later, Lupe stopped at a favorite pullout at the S end of Kluane Lake, the largest lake entirely within the Yukon Territory. The water level still seemed to be dropping. The Slims River, once the lake’s main water source had largely dried up back in May, 2016, when most of its flow had been naturally diverted into the Kaskawulsh River due to the retreat of the Kaskawulsh Glacier.

At the S end of 50 mile long **Kluane Lake**. Photo looks W.

**Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.)** (R of Center), which Lupe climbed back in 2017, and **Mount Wallace (7,700 ft.)** (R). Photo looks NW.

On the way to Haines Junction, several more stops were made to enjoy the beauty of the St. Elias Mountains.

Possibly **Mount Cairnes (9,186 ft.)** (L). Photo looks SW.

**St. Elias Mountains** from the Alaska Highway. Photo looks SW.

Miles rolled by. Hours passed away. By evening, the American Dingo was at the Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.) trailhead along the S Klondike Highway. Nearly a month since Lupe had ventured up Mount Lorne now. Already seemed like a long time ago.

Loop enjoyed two trips along the early easy portion of the trail. The first, a 0.5 mile romp looking for squirrels a little before sunset. Next, a second, longer foray at dusk as gloom spread through the forest. The Carolina Dog waded in Bear Creek, and spotted a deer wandering in the woods. Fun times! But the real action wouldn’t start until tomorrow.

On the Mount Loren trail near sunset. Photo looks W.

9-11-19, 9:39 AM, 34ºF, S of Carcross, on Montana Mountain Road – Close enough! The G6 had done well to get this far. SPHP parked at a wide spot 200 yards beyond the last building. Lupe hopped out. The road wasn’t bad here, but had been stony, rough, and often steep most of the 4+ miles to this point. Somewhere not too far ahead, it was supposed to become impassable.

4+ miles up Montana Mountain Road a little beyond the last building (Center). **Caribou Mountain (6,400 ft.)** (R). Photo looks N.

Montana Mountain (7,233 ft.) located just S of Carcross is known for its awesome mountain biking trails. The Mountain Hero trail, designated as one of only 6 “epic” trails in Canada by the International Mountain Biking Association (IMBA), is especially popular. On the way up, SPHP had stopped for a quick look at posted maps of the trail system.

Montana Mountain lower trail map. S is up on this map.

Of course, Loop wasn’t here for the mountain biking. If possible, she was going to climb Montana Mountain. Maybe even Brute Mountain (7,000 ft.) or Mount Matheson (7,200 ft.), too, if she had time and they looked viable. As soon as SPHP was ready, Lupe started up the road.

Setting out for Montana Mountain. Photo looks SSW.

Within 10 minutes, the hills and ridges of Brute Mountain were already coming into sight. Another 5 minutes brought Looper to a spot where a small stream passed through a culvert. Half of the road had eroded into the V-shaped gully down by the stream. The G6 might have made it past this point, but SPHP never would have chanced it.

The road trek was a steady uphill grind. 20 minutes past the washout, Lupe reached an intersection with the McDonald Creek trail. Beyond this junction, the road curved SW. A small black bear was 100 yards ahead! However, by the time Lupe got there, the bear had vanished among the bushes.

At the **McDonald Creek trail** junction.

Before long Montana Mountain Road began curving back to the S again. From this bend, Lupe could see a sliver of Bennett Lake off to the W.

**Bennett Lake** (Center). **Peak 4260** (far R). **Mount Gray (6,083 ft.)** beyond it. Photo looks WNW.

Peering around the bend. The hills and ridges are all part of **Brute Mountain** which sports several areas within 7,000 ft. contours. Photo looks SW.

Continuing around the bend, Lupe’s ultimate destination, the summit of Montana Mountain (7,233 ft.), came into sight for the first time. Looked like there was a skiff of new snow up there!

**Montana Mountain** (L) comes into view! Photo looks S.

The road kept curving. Within a few minutes of turning SE, Lupe came to a landslide where the entire roadbed had collapsed into a deep valley. So much for Montana Mountain Road!

At the start of the landslide, the effective end of Montana Mountain Road as far as any vehicles are concerned. Photo looks NW.

Looking down the collapsed slope. **Brute Mountain** in the distance. Photo looks SW.

A narrow, single track trail continued on from here. At first the path stayed on relatively firm terrain, but soon Lupe was traversing the worst of the landslide on loose sand and small rocks.

Near the end. **Mount Gray** (L). Photo looks NW.

Hundreds of feet of road were completely gone. Looper eventually did get past the landslide to where the road picked up again heading due S. The American Dingo was already close to treeline, but bushes remained abundant. Long abandoned, what remained of Montana Mountain Road was rough and partially overgrown.

Before long, the road appeared to dead-end. Yet, Lupe could still see it continuing S only modestly higher up the slope to the SE. A short trek on open ground following a faint path got her up there. Looking back, SPHP was under the impression that perhaps a thickly overgrown switchback had been missed. This was almost certainly all part of the same road.

Whatever! Lupe kept going. The road kept climbing. After a while, a better jeep trail came in from over the ridge to the NE.

Beyond the landslide, looking up the drainage separating the road Lupe was on from **Brute Mountain**. Photo looks SW.

At the junction with the better jeep trail. **Caribou Mountain** (L), **Mount Lansdowne (5,882 ft.)** (Center), and **Nares Mountain (5,833 ft.)** (R). Photo looks NNE.

Following the jeep trail, Lupe soon came to a fork. One branch angled off toward the SW, descending into the valley between here and Brute Mountain. Seeing that this route went clear down to a creek ford before winding its way up lower slopes of Brute Mountain, Looper continued straight S instead. Another km on the jeep trail brought the Carolina Dog to the saddle between Brute Mountain and Sugarloaf Hill (6,106 ft.).

This saddle was a major intersection. Roads came in from all directions. A large post stuck up from a cairn. Beyond this cairn was a landscape incapable of supporting anything more than minimal tundra vegetation. Not a single tree or shrub dotted the barren expanse between here and Montana Mountain.

The barren expanse between the saddle and **Montana Mountain** (R). Photo looks SE.

A good 5 km from the G6 now, Loopster was ready for a break. While she enjoyed water and Taste of the Wild, SPHP surveyed the situation. A tiny creek swept down the wide open basin between here and Montana Mountain. Off to the SW, a road led gradually higher along lower slopes of Brute Mountain. That appeared to be the way to go.

Brute Mountain (7,000 ft.) didn’t look like a difficult climb from here, although it was hard to tell which of several high points might actually be the true summit. Maybe Loop really could climb it later in the day?

Eh. Too soon to think about that! Montana Mountain was the American Dingo’s main objective. She appeared to have 2 choices on how to get there. The first, and most direct route, was to head up to an opening just W of the summit. The second, and likely easiest approach, was to go up the NW end of a big ridge W of that region. Following the ridge SE ought to get Lupe to high ground providing summit access.

Relaxing in the saddle. Lupe would take the road seen heading off to the L (SW) on her way to Montana Mountain. The **three highest points of Brute Mountain** are visible from here. Looked like maybe the middle one was highest, but hard to say for sure. Photo looks W.

**Montana Mountain summit** (L, with snow). Two possible routes: (1) the saddle at Center, or (2) the big ridge on the R. Photo looks S.

Once underway again, Lupe took a road heading SW along the base of Brute Mountain, gaining only a little elevation before reaching another fork. At this fork she went L (SE) on a road that lost all the elevation she had just gained.

At the fork. From here Lupe took the road seen winding toward the gap at Center. Photo looks SE.

The road began to climb again, and a choice soon had to be made. Which way? SPHP was undecided. Cutting across the tundra up to the end of the big ridge, which wasn’t too far away, seemed like maybe the thing to do.

Off road now, heading for the NW (R) end of the big ridge. Photo looks S.

Some nut who had gotten a bulldozer in his Christmas stocking had been all over the place, scarring up the whole region. Lupe reached a spot where she could see roads going toward both the end of the big ridge, and the gap just W of Montana Mountain.

The road heading straight for the gap (R) was tempting. So direct! **Montana Mountain** (straight up from Lupe). Photo looks SE.

Option 2: Follow the big ridge higher. Photo looks SW.

Looking back. **Sugarloaf Hill** (R) beyond Lupe. The saddle with the cairn and post that Lupe had come up from is at the base of the hill in the foreground on the L. **Nares Mountain** (L) pokes up from behind this same hill. Photo looks NE.

A snowfield immediately below the gap looked suspiciously shiny even from a distance, but the temptation to try to save a bunch of time and distance proved to be too much. SPHP led Lupe toward the gap.

The road going that way started out merely rocky. From there it ramped up to very rocky, then extremely rocky, finally becoming a jagged jumble of huge stones even the bulldozer must had trouble with. Eventually all signs that a bulldozer might have made it this far vanished. Picking a way through all this rubble was distressingly time-consuming, but did let Loop get a look at a good-sized tarn nestled below a steep ridge to the E.

A lovely tarn comes into view on the way to the gap. Photo looks E.

The “road” gets a bit rough approaching the gap (Center). Photo looks SE.

If the snowfield had actually been snow, Lupe wouldn’t have had much of a problem reaching the territory above the gap. However, she arrived at the edge of the snowfield to find not snow, but a thin, crystalline mini-glacier instead. Ice! Rocks were embedded in the ice, but in insufficient quantities to provide reliable support all the way up to the gap.

Close up of the crystalline ice of the mini-glacier.

The ice was hard, damp, and very slick. Even though the gap wasn’t all that far away now, any attempt to cross the steep mini-glacier looked like an invitation to an uncontrolled rocket slide to be dashed upon rocks waiting below. No way!

A line of small cliffs formed a wall a little above Lupe’s current position. A couple of breaks might have provided a reasonable scramble to better terrain higher up, but those breaks were full of ice, too.

At the edge of the thin, steep mini-glacier with the gap tantalizingly close, yet unobtainable. **Montana Mountain** (L of Center). Photo looks SE.

A line of small cliffs a little higher up looked insurmountable, too. Photo looks S.

Hmm. Coming this way was starting to look like a mistake, but SPHP wasn’t ready to give up quite yet. Maybe Loop could go around the lower end of the mini-glacier? The rocky slopes on the opposite side might be negotiable.

So down the edge of the glacier the sure-footed American Dingo went. SPHP carefully picked a way lower using poles and ice-embedded rocks for support. Slow, but faster than trying to scramble amidst the boulder field next to the ice.

Heading down the edge of the mini-glacier. Photo looks NE.

Looking up the mini-glacier toward the elusive gap. Photo looks SSE.

Once at the bottom of the glacier, Lupe turned E. She got only halfway along the toe before SPHP called a halt. The territory beyond the glacier looked less friendly than before. Looper could climb that hillside, but whether SPHP could seemed doubtful. Maybe yes, maybe no. The longer SPHP pondered, the stronger the “no” impression became.

The territory beyond the mini-glacier. **Montana Mountain** (L of Center). Photo looks SE.

Zoomed in for a closer look. Maybe going up toward the R passing below the boulder near (Center) would work?

Well, it might have worked, might even have been easy, but this jaunt to the mini-glacier had already taken more than an hour. With prospects for success still uncertain, investing more time in what could prove to be a lost cause seemed a poor choice. Should have stuck with the big ridge! At least it had looked like an almost guaranteed success.

Before heading back to give the big ridge a shot, Lupe climbed up onto a small ridge overlooking the scenic tarn.

About as far as Lupe got around the mini-glacier (off the R edge). Photo looks E.

Near the tarn. The ridge Lupe had to return to is on the L. Photo looks NW.

On the field of stones leading back to the big ridge (L). **Brute Mountain** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

Once back on the road winding up to the lower NW end of the big ridge, Lupe followed it to a point overlooking the pass between the ridge and Brute Mountain. More of Bennett Lake and smoke from several small forest fires were in view beyond the pass. Loopster left the road here, starting up a moderately steep slope of white stones. Her ascent of Montana Mountain’s long NW ridge had begun.

Starting up **Montana Mountain’s NW ridge**. Photo looks SE.

Nothing to it! The ascent went well. Views improved. The nutcase with the bulldozer had been zig-zagging higher even up here. Every now and then, Lupe crossed the bulldozer’s path, little more than flattened zones of loose rock.

**Sugarloaf Hill** (L) and **Tagish Lake**. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Montana Mountain** (R) and the mini-glacier Lupe hadn’t gotten past (closest one straight up from her ears). Photo looks ESE.

The rocks eventually changed from white to tan or brown. After gaining 600 feet of elevation, Loop reached the first high point along the ridge. A cairn sat on a rocky knoll here, and a patch of tundra provided a good spot to take a break.

Approaching the **first high point at 6,600 ft**. (Center). Photo looks S.

**Brute Mountain** from the 6,600 ft. high point. Photo looks NW.

Looking down the **Knob Creek drainage** at smoke from forest fires on the lower slopes of **Finger Mountain (5,500 ft.)** (Center) across **Bennett Lake**. Photo looks WSW.

Zoomed in on the smoldering **E slopes of Finger Mountain**. Photo looks W.

**Caribou Mountain (6,400 ft.)** (Center). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

From this vantage point, the true summit of Brute Mountain appeared to be one of two closer, gentler high points rather than a much more jagged region farther NW. An ascent later on still looked feasible. However, a mere glance at Mount Matheson (7,200 ft.), which was now in view to the S, instantly dispelled any notion that Lupe might be able to climb it.

The forbidding N aspect of **Mount Matheson** (Center). Photo looks S.

20 minutes, and it was time to move on. A couple of successively higher points were visible farther SE along the ridge. Lupe set out for them on a trail that started out right up on the ridgeline, and never strayed too far from it. Soon she was getting views of the broad, moderately sloping region she had been unable to reach above the mini-glacier.

Montana Mountain was in sight, too, a striking peak of mottled dark and light grays, tans, and browns.

Loopster ready to get going again. **Montana Mountain** (L). Photo looks SE.

Looking down on the tarn Loop had visited below the mini-glacier. **Sugarloaf Hill** (L). **Tagish Lake** (Center) in the distance. Photo looks NE.

**Montana Mountain** from its NW ridge. Photo looks E.

Upon reaching the 3rd high point along the ridgeline, Lupe could see that the ridge flattened out from here on. Instead of heading directly for Montana Mountain, which would have required substantial elevation loss, she kept following the ridge SE.

At the 3rd high point along the ridgeline. Photo looks SE.

Glancing back at **Brute Mountain** from the 3rd high point. Photo looks NW.

The American Dingo stuck with the ridgeline until she was able to leave it with minimal elevation loss. Sweeping around the S end of the broad basin to the E, she headed for a minor ridge SW of Montana Mountain’s summit.

Sticking with the NW ridge all the way to the R. **Montana Mountain** (L). Photo looks E.

Crossing the upper end of the rocky plain. Photo looks NE.

No trail led across the flat, rocky plain, but Lupe picked one up again as soon as she got to the SW ridge. Following the first part of this ridge was easy. The SE (R) side dropped sharply away, but the NW side was never difficult. Most of the time Looper could stay right up on the ridgeline.

Near the end, Lupe came to a minor pass of light brown sand and rock. This was easily crossed. Ahead was a much steeper climb, but not a long one. The summit was now only 200 or 300 feet higher!

Approaching the light brown pass. Photo looks NE.

A trail was visible going up from the W, the direction Lupe would have come from if she had made it past the mini-glacier. She reached this trail partway up. A bit of light scrambling was involved, but nothing at all daunting. Soon Loop was only a short stroll from the top.

Approaching the true summit. Photo looks N.

9-11-19, 4:45 PM, 38ºF, summit of Montana Mountain – Despite doubts during the final approach, it was immediately obvious that Lupe really had reached the true summit of Montana Mountain. Off to the NE, a high point with a tower was clearly somewhat lower.

The very top of Montana Mountain (7,233 ft.) was a rocky point. A small region almost as high extended a little way S. The N face was a cliff. No cairn, but a metal rod stuck up out of the rocks. A shiny metal plate shaped like a stop sign rested right below the true summit. SPHP picked it up expecting to find a registry, but found only rocks beneath.

Lupe at the true summit. Photo looks NE.

With the fruitless mini-misadventure to the mini-glacier, it had taken a while to get here. The weather seemed to be deteriorating. Shortly after reaching the summit, Lupe was pelted with snow granules for 5 minutes, followed soon after by a series of cold, light rain showers. Any sunshine lingered in the distance in a few scattered spots.

Yet the gray clouds overhead were still above the mountaintops. Driven by a 10 to 15 mph S breeze, they sailed N in endless procession. The air below them was rather hazy, obscuring the most distant peaks, but Lupe could see plenty of closer mountains in all directions.

Mount Matheson loomed only a couple of km off to the SW. To the W, bits of Bennett Lake were visible, along with smoke still rising from the fires smoldering on Finger Mountain. Nearly the entire length of the long ridge Lupe had traveled to get here was in view, too.

The long dark ridge Lupe followed (from R to L) on her way here is in the foreground. **Bennett Lake** beyond. **Mountain Matheson** (L). Photo looks WSW.

Off to the NW, Brute Mountain still looked quite climbable. Sadly, it was clear by now that SPHP must have been nuts. The Carolina Dog wasn’t going to have anywhere close to enough time to do that, but it was still possible to admire the mountain from here.

**Brute Mountai**n (Center). Photo looks NW.

Seen dimly through the haze to the N were a couple of friends! Two splendid peaks Lupe had been to – Mount Lorne (6,629 ft.), which she had climbed exactly a month ago, and Canyon Mountain (4,901 ft.) way up by Whitehorse.

**Mount Lorne** (Center) in the distance. **Canyon Mountain** (L) even farther away. **Caribou Mountain** (R). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Another friend was in sight to the NNE. Nares Mountain (5,833 ft.), which Lupe had visited a year ago, was lined up almost directly beyond Sugarloaf Hill.

**Nares Mountain** (Center) is lined up behind **Sugarloaf Hill** in the foreground. **Caribou Mountain** (L). Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

To the S, a couple of small green tarns nestled in a cirque. Far beyond them, the S end of Tutsi Lake was visible.

**S end of Tutsi Lake** (R). Photo looks SSW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Rocks everywhere! No place for the American Dingo to get comfortable except SPHP’s lap. For a good long while, Lupe curled up as SPHP sat petting her, and gazing at the wonders all around.

Might that not be Paddy Peak (7,238 ft.) way off to the SSW? And far to the ESE, that had to be Mount Minto (6,913 ft.)! So on and so forth, as Lupe’s precious minutes on fabulous Montana Mountain ticked away.

**Paddy Peak (7,238 ft.)** (L of Center)? Photo looks SSW.

**Mount Minto (6,913 ft.)** (Center). Photo looks ESE.

**Tagish Lake**. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Patterson (6,500 ft.)** (Center), with **Mount Conrad (5,800 ft.)** in front of it. **Ramshorn Creek valley** (L). Photo looks SE.

Looking S with help from the telephoto lens.

The weather was improving again. Nearly an hour gone by. Ready or not, soon time to leave. Lupe explored the little summit region again. She could have gone all the way on to the high point with the tower, but never did. Getting too late even for that.

*Might have been fun to go over to that tower, SPHP!* Photo looks NE.

**Brute Mountain** (Center) from the N face of Montana Mountain. Photo looks NW.

All too soon, beneath a clearing sky in Canada’s fabled Yukon Territory, an American Dingo again stood at the summit of Montana Mountain. This was it. Time to say good-bye to the last incredible peak Lupe would climb on her grand Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation. What a great choice Montana Mountain (7,233 ft.) had been!

Final moments at the summit. Photo looks N.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

The return was beautiful! Same route, minus the misadventure to the mini-glacier. No Mount Matheson, or even Brute Mountain, but it was an evening of solitude, breath-taking scenery, and joy.

Back down to the SW ridge. **Mount Matheson** (R). Photo looks SW.

Heading back along the NW ridge. Photo looks NW.

A colorful bit of tundra in a gray world.

Back at the first 6,600 ft. high point along the NW ridge. Photo looks SE.

Same place, by the little cairn. Photo looks N.

Farewell, **Montana Mountain**! Photo looks SSE.

By the time Lupe made it to the abandoned upper reaches of Montana Mountain Road on the way back to the landslide, trouble was brewing. The sun was long down, and it was getting too dark to see. Worse yet, the road was becoming way more overgrown than SPHP remembered.

The flashlight had to come out. Helpful, but not with orientation. The landslide couldn’t be too much farther, but the road vanished. Bushes everywhere. SPHP followed a faint trail N until it too, appeared to end. Confusion. Now what? SPHP wasn’t even certain whether Lupe was too high or too low. Too low would be a disaster.

The Carolina Dog made a sharp turn to the SW. Gradually descending, she went farther than SPHP thought could possibly be correct. Finally, Lupe turned W beginning a steeper descent. Not even the slightest sign of a trail! Better not go too far! She didn’t. A road appeared. Had Loopster saved the day? No telling. SPHP marked the middle of the road with a small cairn. Might have to find this spot again, and go back up.

No need. A short road trek N, and there was the landslide! Alright! Back on track! In the silent Yukon night, Lupe led the way back across the landslide along the skinny soft trail, the only sound made by pebbles tumbling down the steep slope.

Made it! Still a few weary km to go, but the G6 was sure to be waiting at the end. (9-11-19, 10:51 PM, 44ºF)

**Montana Mountain**, Yukon Territory, Canada 9-11-19

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Donjek Crossing Mountain, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-9-19)

Days 33 – 36 of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

9-6-19, a little after 8:00 AM, Lazy Mountain trailhead in Palmer, Alaska – Another vehicle pulled into the trailhead. Gate must be open! According to a sign on the way in yesterday, the gate was supposed get locked at 10:00 PM. However, after climbing Matanuska Peak (6,093 ft.), Lupe hadn’t made it back to the trailhead until well after midnight.

Who knew if the gate had actually been locked? SPHP had been too weary to check. Didn’t matter now. Lupe was free to go.

A beautiful mostly blue sky morning, but nothing was happening today. Loopster’s little jaunt up Matanuska Peak had been quite the excursion. SPHP’s R foot was sore, and energy levels were low. Orange juice, sweet rolls, and a big chocolate milkshake, the latter 2 shared with the Dingo, helped restore some energy. The foot, however, needed time.

SPHP called Sven, the young guy Lupe had met on the trail yesterday. Sven had proposed climbing a peak together. No answer. SPHP left a message. Lupe was going to have another shot at Wolverine Peak (4,491 ft.) tomorrow. Call back if interested.

The day got spent in Anchorage. This time Lupe wasn’t interested in a walk at Kincaid Park. Maybe her paws were sore, too? Highlights of the day were a roasted chicken, another chocolate milkshake, and hours spent watching the waves roll in at Point Woronzof. Oh, and Sven did answer later on. Wolverine Peak tomorrow was a go!

9-7-19, 10:00 AM, Anchorage at the Prospect Heights trailhead – Lupe was here, but where was Sven? Might have bailed due to the weather. So much for blue skies. Rainy and gray today. Not good. SPHP was about ready to bail, too, when Sven called. Coming, but will be an hour late. Start without him, he would catch up. SPHP explained it was raining. No worries, Sven didn’t care. He would bring a raincoat.

A gust of wind tore leaves from the trees, sending them whirling. 6 days ago, Lupe had been driven back by an absolute gale up on Wolverine Peak. This wasn’t going to be a repeat, was it? The trailhead was busy. No one else seemed worried about wind or rain. Alrighty, then! Lupe headed for the Wolverine Bowl trail.

Raining harder, but Loop was making decent progress when, 20 minutes from the trailhead, 2 young women were running back. The second one stopped to warn SPHP. She had made it 4 miles up Wolverine Peak, but conditions were much worse up there. Raining buckets, and a ferocious wind blowing so hard she could barely stand up. Impossible to get to the summit. Use extreme caution, if making an attempt.

OK ……. so much for Wolverine Peak.

Back at the trailhead, Sven eventually did arrive. If Sven was going up Wolverine Peak, he was going alone. Even though conditions here at the trailhead were mild, Sven understood. How about just a hike along lower portions of the Wolverine Bowl trail? Sure. Why not? Rained the whole time. Lupe got soaking wet, but at least she didn’t get blown off the mountain.

Sven was a really good guy. The whole encounter ended with hot coffee at Starbucks, while Lupe got a chew stick.

Lupe in Anchorage with newfound friend Sven.

And that was it for Alaska. Many more great peaks to climb, but already a week into September. With a new front blowing in, it was time to start for home. Score: Dingo 0, Wolverine Peak 2. By evening Lupe had made it to the Copper River just E of Gulkana Junction.

**Matanuska Peak** (Center), taken on the way through Palmer. Both Sven and Lupe had climbed it 2 days ago. Photo looks E.

Looking back along the Glenn Highway from the **Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.)** trailhead (MP 118.5) at the dreariness chasing Lupe out of Alaska. Photo looks SW.

Sign posted along the Glenn Highway on the way to Glennallen. Photo looks E.

**Mount Sanford (16,237 ft.)** (L) and **Mount Drum (12,010 ft.)** (straight ahead!) from the Glenn Highway. Photo looks E.

**Mount Drum** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks E.

Evening at the **Copper River**, 1.5 miles NE of Gakona Junction. **Mount Sanford** (Center) on the horizon. Photo looks E.

9-8-19, 6:34 AM, 49ºF, Copper River pullout along the Tok Cut-off – Sunrise at the Copper River. Beautiful! Lupe was up and at ’em! Today she would be leaving Alaska, returning to the Yukon Territory. Fabulous sights all along the way!

Sunrise at the **Copper River**. Photo looks E.

9-8-19, 7:54 AM, 38ºF, Tok Cut-off at the Chistochina River rest stop – Oh, if only yesterday could have been like today! Lupe and Sven would have climbed Wolverine Peak for sure! As it was, Loop enjoyed an early romp across the Chistochina River bridge. In addition to seeing the gorgeous river, she was lucky enough to be treated to a terrific view of Mount Sanford (16,237 ft.).

On the **Chistochina River bridge**. Photo looks SW.

**Mount Sanford** from the **Chistochina River**. Photo looks SE.

An upstream view. Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Sanford**. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

As Lupe continued NE on the Tok Cut-off, several more stops were made as Mount Sanford receded. At one point, Mount Wrangell (14,163 ft.) could be seen as well.

**Mount Sanford** again from farther NE along the Tok Cut-off. Photo looks SSW.

Fall colors along the Tok Cut-Off. Photo looks NE.

**Mount Wrangell** with lots of help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSW.

By noon, The Carolina Dog was well SE of Tok on the Alaska Highway. The white giants of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park were long gone. The scenes now were of wetlands, lakes, and rolling Black Hills of the Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge.

**Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge** from the Alaska Highway. Photo looks SW.

At 1:38 PM (PDT now), Lupe crossed the Canadian border. Leaving Alaska was sad, but more adventures were ahead in the fabled Yukon Territory! Brief stops were made to see a budding forest fire and Pickhandle Lake.

A forest fire greeted Lupe shortly after entering Canada again. Photo looks W.

On the dock at **Pickhandle Lake**. Photo looks SE.

**Pickhandle Lake** is in the Shakwak Trench NE of Canada’s St. Elias Mountains. Photo looks WNW.

Excitement was growing as Lupe continued SE on the Alaska Highway. Such a beautiful, warm, clear day! Not much farther was a mountain SPHP had been hoping Looper could climb ever since she first saw it in 2016. The American Dingo had been by it every year since then at least once, but conditions had never been right. Tomorrow, if this weather held, Lupe was finally going get her chance to attempt an ascent of Donjek Crossing Mountain (5,881 ft.)!

9-8-19, 3:30 PM, Donjek River – Oh, yeah! There it was! Rising more than 3,500 feet above the mighty Donjek River stood the wonderful mountain that Lupe was going to climb! All the Carolina Dog would have to do was get above treeline. The rest would be easy.

Of course, it all hinged on the weather. Right now the sun was a beast! Perfect! Too bad Loop hadn’t arrived here last night. She would already be on top!

Before reaching the Donjek River bridge, SPHP pulled off on the R (SW) side of the highway. A gravel road led down a little hill toward the river. A curve to the R, and there was a perfect place to stash the G6. Time to get out and have a look around!

The G6 in a great spot right alongside the **Donjek River**. Lupe would be spending the night right here. Fabulous! Photo looks NW.

Plenty of time to relax, but there was one important task to be taken care of yet this afternoon. Driving across the Alaska Highway bridge, Lupe and SPHP set out to investigate possible access points leading to Donjek Crossing Mountain. Two side roads several miles SE of the bridge didn’t pan out. One went only a short distance to a microwave tower, the other dead-ended almost immediately.

So no roads or trails. Looper was going to have to brute force her way through the forest. Didn’t look that bad, anyway. SPHP drove back to the G6 refuge on the NW side of the Donjek.

An incredibly hot afternoon. The sun was a demon! 71ºF! Lupe and SPHP hung out in or near the G6. When the air cooled in the evening, Loop was ready to do some exploring.

Roaming the flood plain. Photo looks SW.

Beside the mighty **Donjek River**. Photo looks SW.

On the Alaska Highway bridge. Photo looks SW.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** from Donjek Crossing. Photo looks NE.

*Oh, it’s going to be great! What do you think we’ll see from up there tomorrow?*

**St. Elias Mountains** from the **Donjek River**. Photo looks SSW.

Looking N from the SE side of the river.

**St. Elias Mountains** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

9-9-19, 7:53 AM, 32ºF, at a parking area by a pond SE of the Donjek River – Clear, calm, and crisp! Time to hit it! SPHP had already driven across the bridge to the chosen launch point. Lupe trotted from the parking area up to the Alaska Highway and followed it S. It was a bit of a stroll to a high point along the road.

This was it! For better or worse, Lupe turned E, plunging into the forest.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** from the point where Lupe left the Alaska Highway. Photo looks NE.

A bit of luck already! Beyond a band of trees, a field of spent fireweed led up an open slope. Nice!

This field of frost-bitten fireweed made for an unexpected easy start. Photo look E.

Lupe followed the fireweed field as far as she could before entering a mostly deciduous forest. The forest floor was soft, spongy material, which required extra effort, but felt good on the paws. Dry branches snapped and cracked as Loop roamed higher through a deep woods wilderness.

Not too far to the R (S), a small stream could be heard down in a ravine. SPHP tried to stay close to the poorly defined edge of the ravine where the ground was sometimes firmer. Meanwhile, Lupe was having a blast exploring at will.

The climb steepened. Lupe’s first objective was to reach a broad gently sloping region several km SW of Donjek Crossing Mountain’s summit, an elevation gain of roughly 600 feet from where she’d left the highway. The Carolina Dog hadn’t reached that area yet when she came to a steep slope that led up to a small opening. Here she already had a beautiful view of snow-capped peaks of the St. Elias Mountains far beyond the Donjek River.

Along the edge of the thickly wooded ravine Lupe had been following. Photo looks SW.

**St. Elias Mountains**. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

As Lupe continued higher, the rate of climb finally started to diminish. The forest was changing, too. Scraggly spruce trees were taking over. The ground was soft and lumpy, often covered with thick green moss.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks SE.

Soon Lupe was on level terrain. No sign of anything up here. No trails, not even any animal trails. Donjek Crossing Mountain was still hidden from view. Had to be out there somewhere, though! Lupe turned NE.

Prowling up on the mossy, nearly level region. Photo looks SE.

SPHP wandered NE or ENE in the presumed general direction of Donjek Crossing Mountain. Meanwhile, Lupe sniffed and prowled. She often disappeared from sight, but returned every few minutes to check on SPHP. The Carolina Dog loved it up here! She was having a great time.

This went on for quite a while. Completely hidden by a dense forest of spruce, deciduous trees, and tall bushes, Donjek Crossing Mountain still hadn’t appeared. Lupe had been missing for a few minutes when SPHP spotted her again about 50 feet away. She was trotting along normally, heading straight for SPHP.

Was Loop even aware of the danger? SPHP couldn’t tell. Maybe she knew, but didn’t recognize its presence as danger? The American Dingo was not alone. Death was silently padding along 15 feet behind her. It could all be over in an instant! Fortunately, Death did not seem to be in a hurry. It was not chasing Lupe, and did not appear ready to pounce, merely following the odd unfamiliar Carolina Dog, as if curious about what sort of creature lunch was.

Lupe, come!

At the sound, Death stopped in its tracks. Yellow eyes stared straight at SPHP. Perhaps Lupe had been unaware of Death, but Death had also been unaware of SPHP. Loop reached SPHP acting as if she didn’t have a care in the world. Danger? What danger? Why, it was just a cat! Lupe had been raised with cats, and lived with them for many years. They’re not bad. Just sort of stand-offish solitary creatures, a strange breed of dog that doesn’t understand how to be a good member of the pack.

Confused and disappointed, a lynx easily twice Lupe’s size did not run. Instead, it slunk noiselessly deeper into the forest. 100 feet away, the lynx stopped and stared back again. SPHP tried to get a photo. Dang camera insisted upon auto-focusing on branches in the foreground. Clearly visible to the naked eye, the lynx was a blur to the camera lens.

No question Lupe saw the lynx now! Bold as brass, the American Dingo was eager to go bark at it.

No! Absolutely not! Quiet!

The lynx paused only 5 or 10 seconds before silently retreating into the leafy gloom. Insufficient time to adjust the camera. No photo. Hard to be too upset about that. Lupe was still among the living!

*Oh, how exciting! The lynx was right here only moments ago! It was enormous! Wha’dya say we go find it again? See what it wants! Give it what for!*

The long march through the wilderness continued. Glimpses of Donjek Crossing Mountain finally began to appear. Looper was right on track! She came to a more open boggy area, which fortunately was almost dry. A golden forest was visible on the lower slopes of Donjek Crossing Mountain. Looked like an enchanted place! Lupe headed for it.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** (L) comes into sight. HP5400 (Center). Photo looks NE.

*Look! An enchanted forest! Let’s go over there!* Crossing the small bog. Photo looks NE.

On the way to the golden forest, Lupe lost sight of it while among the spruce trees again. The golden forest really was enchanted! Although she headed straight for it, Loop never did come to it.

She did reach the base of the mountain, though! At first, the terrain rose gradually, but the rate of climb quickly increased. A steep ascent got Loop up to a grove of aspens, just the sort of tree that might grow in an enchanted forest, but their gold was all spent.

The American Dingo kept climbing. Getting close to treeline now! As trees became scarcer, bushes became more numerous. Maneuvering through these thickets on a steep mountainside was tough. Gradually the trees were left behind, but the climb didn’t get easier until the bushes began to wane, too. Meanwhile, views were opening up.

Trees and bushes! Bushes and trees! Photo looks SSW.

**St. Elias Mountains** beyond the **Donjek River**. Photo looks SW.

Only scattered trees now, but a steep struggle among the bushes went on and on. However, once Lupe was through the worst of them, it was clear nothing was going to stop the Carolina Dog from reaching the top of Donjek Crossing Mountain. Sadly, it was now apparent the sky wasn’t as clear as it had been earlier. Smoke was drifting up the long valley of the Shakwak Trench driven by a steady SE breeze.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain’s far S ridge** (Center). Smoke is visible coming up the **Shakwak Trench** (far R). Photo looks SE.

Hardly a rock anywhere until now. The grassy slopes above bush line did have some. Although Loopster had already gained a tremendous amount of elevation, a long steep climb was still ahead. A breezy romp! The wind was 20 to 25 mph out of the SE up here.

On the grassy slopes. **HP5300** (R). Photo looks E.

*Looks like we’re getting close to the top.* Photo looks NE.

**Donjek River** and **St. Elias Mountains** from the slopes of **HP5400**. Photo looks SSW. Unfortunately, the sky is turning white with smoke in this direction.

At last the terrain began to level out. An easy stroll led toward a plateau only moderately higher. This plateau was the top of HP5400, a subpeak S of Donjek Crossing Mountain’s true summit.

HP5400‘s summit was multiple acres in size. Brown grass and tundra covered a flat plain. Plenty of rocks around, but not enough to call this region rocky. Near the center, a single skinny, dark gray rock stood on end. Lupe hopped up on it to claim a sub-peakbagging victory!

Loopster on the highest rock of **HP5400**. **HP5300** (R) in the background. **Peak 6158** (Center). Photo looks ESE.

The tawny summit of Donjek Crossing Mountain (5,881 ft.) was now in sight only 1 km away!

**Summit of Donjek Crossing Mountain** from the highest rock on **HP5400**. *Told ya this rock was skinny!* Photo looks N.

Getting to the summit was going to be easy! A walk up a big, barren hill, not even 500 feet higher than where Loop was now. Joy and excitement grew as Lupe headed for the N edge of HP5400 for a view of the saddle leading to the top. Yep, absolutely nothing to worry about. Cake!

*Hah! Nothing to it!* Loop along the N edge of **HP5400**. Photo looks N.

Gazing down on the **Alaska Highway bridge** (L) over the **Donjek River** from **HP5400**. Photo looks W.

A bit of a trudge, but Lupe was soon across the saddle, and heading up the S side of the summit. What a happy march up the big hill it was! The American Dingo had waited years for this moment. She arrived at the slightly lower SE end of a one acre summit region. The terrain sloped gently higher toward a pole sticking out of a cairn at the far NW end.

Heading for the cairn (Center) at the **true summit**. Photo looks NW.

*Made it! After all these years, too!* At the **true summit of Donjek Crossing Mountain**. Photo looks SSW.

Oh, it was incredible! Lupe had that big view of the Alaska Highway bridge over the Donjek River she had come so far to see. Donjek Crossing! How fabulous it was to be here!

**Donjek Crossing** from **Donjek Crossing Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

**Donjek Crossing**. The G6 (unseen) was parked L of the blue pond. Photo looks SW.

The only disappointment was the amount of smoky haze that had blown in during the course of the day, marring the panorama of grand peaks of the St. Elias Range. But it wasn’t too bad. Still possible to see.

Spread out along the St. Elias range, several of the highest mountains in Canada were visible! Mount Wood (15,789 ft.), 7th highest; Mount Steele (16,644 ft.), 6th highest; Mount Lucania (17,192 ft.), 4th highest; and Mount Walsh (14,783 ft.), 13 highest were all in sight.

Regional map of the St. Elias Range posted at a pullout along the Alaska Highway several miles S of the Donjek River.

**Mount Wood** (Center), 7th highest mountain in Canada. Photo looks SW.

**Mount Wood (15,789 ft.)**. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Steele (16,644 ft.)** (L), 6th highest, and **Mount Lucania (17,192 ft.)** (Center), 4th highest mountains in Canada. Photo looks SSW.

**Mount Walsh** (far R). Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

**Mount Walsh (14,783 ft.)** (R of Center), 13th highest mountain in Canada. Photo looks SSW.

There were glimpses of other grand peaks, too! Ones that SPHP was never able to identify.

Unknown peaks far to the W. They might even have been in Alaska!

After an initial look, Lupe and SPHP sat together near the cairn, taking a long break while enjoying the magnificent scenes.

After a good rest, it was time for a tour of all the views! Lupe first went out on a short N ridge to a point overlooking an enormous stretch of the Donjek River. She could see miles and miles of the river both upstream and downstream from here.

Lupe by the cairn from the start of the N ridge. Photo looks SSE.

At the end of the short N ridge. **Donjek River** (R). Photo looks NNW.

The upstream view. **Mount Wood** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Returning to the main summit region, Lupe next went counter-clockwise around the perimeter. Mountains of the Kluane Plateau to the E were roughly as high as Donjek Crossing Mountain.

**Peak 6158** (R with the yellow slopes). Photo looks E.

Ever so far to the SE, the pointy summit of Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.) was in sight! Lupe had climbed Decoeli on her very first trip to the Yukon Territory in 2016! Immediately S were Donjek Crossing Mountain’s two subpeaks, HP5300 and HP5400.

**Mount Decoeli** (R) is the pointy peak straight up from Lupe at the far end of the **Shakwak Trench**. **Peak 6158** (L). Photo looks SE.

Subpeaks **HP5300** (L) and **HP5400** (R) in the foreground. Photo looks S.

Her tour complete, Lupe returned to the summit cairn. For a long time the American Dingo lingered gazing down on the mighty Donjek River and beyond to the snow-clad peaks of Canada’s loftiest mountain range.

**Mount Walsh** (L), **Mount Steele** (Center), and **Mount Wood** (R). Photo looks SW.

It was hard to leave. It really was. What might have been the most tragic day ever, had turned out to be so wonderful!

More than 1.5 hours after arriving, Lupe left the summit cairn for the last time. Down the mountain she went.

Near the saddle leading to **HP5400** (L). Photo looks SW.

On the way back, SPHP made a mistake. Instead of going back up onto HP5400 and down the way Lupe had come up, a long bare slope seen from the saddle leading to HP5400 seemed an enticing shortcut. Steep, but Lupe could lose a lot of elevation before she reached the bushes.

Looking down the enticing slope. Photo looks SW.

That was true. Lupe did lose lots of elevation going down HP5400‘s W slope. But inevitably she reached the bushes on a slope so steep SPHP began to fear she might cliff out. It was almost impossible to correct the error. Once down to the trees, nothing was familiar, and no landmarks were in sight.

In retrospect, the Carolina Dog was simply too far N. As she tried to get back to the Alaska Highway where she left it, she found herself crossing numerous ravines. She traversed steep slopes. The forest was dense, and endless thickets of tall bushes grew on some of the hillsides. This shortcut may have been a tiny bit shorter, but it was taking a lot longer.

Better get out of this mess before it gets dark!

*Come on, SPHP! Figure it out, or that lynx is going to get us yet!*

The sun was still shining up on Donjek Crossing Mountain (5,881 ft.) when the American Dingo finally reached the Alaska Highway within a few hundred feet of where she’d left it. Whew! Just a pleasant stroll now back to the G6. No traffic. A gorgeous evening.

Donjek Crossing Mountain had been a dream come true, although it had nearly turned into a nightmare. Success, and no worries now. Lupe lived to tell the tale!

Somewhere on Donjek Crossing Mountain, a hungry lynx was wishing she hadn’t. (8:55 PM)

**Donjek Crossing Mountain**, Yukon Territory, Canada 9-9-19

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Decoeli, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-9-16)