Liard River Hot Springs, Muncho Lake & The Racing River, British Columbia, Canada (9-11-23 & 9-12-23)

Day 51 & Part 1 of Day 52 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9-11-23, 2:10 AM, 45ºF – Comfortably warm, SPHP had slept well for a few hours, but was now wide awake again.

Loopster!  Want to go out and sniff the air?

She did.  Strolling together down to the confluence, the night was starry, with an orange crescent moon hanging low over the Pelly River.

What an awesome spot, SPHP!  Sad to think that it’s our last night in the Yukon.

Very sad, but September is already a third over, Loop.  Nights are getting longer.  Soon going to be a lot colder, so we’ve got to keep heading S.

While the American Dingo sniffed, SPHP gazed upon the moon’s rippling orange reflection.  The Pelly River!  A rare vision on this dark night, that spoke not only of this fleeting moment in time, but whispered of quiet, infinitely remote, and lonely ages gone by.

9-11-23, 7:15 AM, 41ºF – A gray morning.  It began with a short stroll up to the Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4 bridge over the Hoole River.  After crossing the bridge, Lupe explored a primitive side road going upstream into the forest.  Surprisingly, it soon led to private property.

Huh.  Imagine that!  Private land, way out here.  It’s a possibility I hardly ever even think about in the Yukon wilderness, Looper.

Great place for a hidden cabin, SPHP.  Talk about seclusion!

World class!  No doubt about it, Loopster.  Even the highway scarcely has any traffic.

Hoole River, looking downstream toward the confluence with the Pelly River. Photo looks NNE.

9-11-23, 9:19 AM – Trip journal’s caught up.  We’ll be leaving soon, Loop.  One more look before we head out?

The Carolina Dog was all for that notion.  For half an hour, Lupe sniffed around amid the trees and bushes near the pullout where the RAV4 was parked, before visiting the confluence of the Hoole and Pelly rivers for the last time.

Confluence of the Hoole and Pelly rivers from the pullout. Photo looks NNE.
On a boulder right at the confluence. The Hoole River comes in from the R. The Pelly flows to the L. Photo looks NNE.

A scenic drive along Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4 consumed the rest of the morning and first half of the afternoon.  This was all new territory Lupe had never seen before.  SPHP stopped quite a few times to let her out for a few minutes and a closer look.

Yellow-orange aspens lining Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4.

As far as the American Dingo was concerned, the highlight of the entire drive occurred shortly after it began, when she spotted 3 black bears, a mama with 2 cubs, crossing the highway.  This provoked a brief, shrill, and extraordinarily enthusiastic reaction within the RAV4.  Naturally, the bears fled before SPHP could get a photo.

And that was it for wildlife.  Scenic mountains and lakes were the usual fare.  An early stop near Finlayson Lake sported an observation deck.  However, the forest had grown up so much that the lake was still mostly hidden from view.  Displays contained information about the Finlayson woodland caribou herd.  No caribou were in sight, either, although Lupe would have loved to see them.

At the Finlayson Lake pullout. Photo looks NE.
Finlayson Lake, or at least what could be seen of it. Photo looks NNE.
Summer and winter ranges of the Finlayson caribou herd.
Life of the Finlayson woodland caribou.

Cruising generally SE, the Pelly Mountains were on the R (SW).  Many of these mountains looked quite climbable, but difficult treks through the boreal forest wilderness would have been required just to get to them.

Pelly Mountains from Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4. Photo looks SSW.
Traffic was virtually nonexistent. Photo looks NW.
A particularly striking peak (L of Center). Photo looks WNW.

The Logan Mountains eventually came into view off to the L (NE).  A romp up onto a low ridge that had burned some years ago provided a terrific viewpoint.

Logan Mountains from the burnt ridge. Photo looks NE.
Pelly Mountains from the same ridge. Photo looks W.

Near Frances Lake, the highway curved S, then turned to pavement shortly before reaching a junction with Nahanni Range Road No. 10.  Continuing S, Lupe got a view of the last big mountains along Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4 from Simpson Lake.

Simpson Mountains (L) beyond Simpson Lake. Photo looks SSW.

On the way into Watson Lake, the sky turned an eerie orange-gray.

Approaching Watson Lake. Photo looks W.

Oh, my gosh, SPHP!  The Arctic Apocalypse is still here!

Hard to believe, but it was true.

9-11-23, 3:11 PM, 59°F – A gigantic plume of wildfire smoke rising from out of the SW hung over the town of Watson Lake when Lupe arrived.  The TAGS gas bar was so busy that SPHP went into the store to purchase a few supplies while waiting for the lines at the pumps to dissipate.

Watson Lake was the end of Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4.  From here, the journey SE continued along the beautifully paved Alaska Highway.  The threatening wildfire smoke proved to be merely a local phenomena, and was soon fading from sight in the rear view mirror.

Cruising smoothly beneath blue skies, SPHP was mentally celebrating the RAV4’s successful completion of the last significant stretch of nearly 2,000 miles of incident-free gravel roads driven on this Dingo Vacation when, 20 minutes out of Watson Lake, a semi-truck coming the opposite direction threw a rock that cracked the windshield.

Deeply annoyed, SPHP instantly began playing an entirely futile mental game of what-if.

Are you kidding me?  Our brand new windshield!  Cracked again this year, shortly after we’re done with all the gravel and reached pavement?  There is no justice in this world, Loopster!

No lack of irony, though, SPHP.

Same exact spot where the windshield got cracked last year, too, Loop!  Right down in the lower L paw corner.  If I’d been driving another 1.5″ to the R, all the RAV4 would have suffered was a chip in the paint.

You had no way of knowing that ahead of time, SPHP.

At least back in 2022, we really had no choice, stuck following a pilot car through a narrow, muddy, 16 mile long stretch of road construction way up on the Dalton Highway with one gravel truck after another spraying rocks at us.  This time, though, if I’d had any inkling that truck was going to throw a rock, I could have easily stayed far enough to the R so that dang rock would have missed us entirely, Loop.

A little late now, SPHP.  Might as well forget it.  Just a freak accident.  You say yourself that there’s about a 50/50 chance that the windshield will get broken every time we go to Alaska.  Happened once to our old G6, too.

All true, yet truth and reason brought no comfort at all.  For the next hour, SPHP fumed to no avail while the RAV4 sped through a region of heavily-forested hills and ridges.  By the time SPHP’s black mood began to lift, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had left the Yukon for good in 2023.

Back in British Columbia.

The American Dingo suffered from no such funk.  In fact, once back in British Columbia, Lupe had a grand time watching for wildlife along the Alaska Highway, spotting 5 black bears and many bison, all of which elicited hysterical barking fits.  What could be more fun?

Bison along the Alaska Highway.

9-11-23, 6:22 PM – A traditional stop at Liard River Hot Springs was just the ticket, and still an unbelievable bargain at just $5.00 CAN admission, to help complete the healing of the damage the cracked windshield had done to SPHP’s disposition.  After the usual short sniff around the picnic area, the Carolina Dog had to wait in the RAV4 while SPHP soaked for nearly 2 hours in the relaxing hot springs deep in the boreal forest.

Arriving at Liard River Hot Springs.
The boardwalk leading to the hot springs. Photo looks NNE.
Crossing a shallow, warm water swamp. Photo looks NNW.
Entering the boreal forest. Photo looks NNE.
One of several displays along the way.
The Hotwater Physa, a small snail found only at Liard River Hot Springs.
Liard River Hot Springs are the second-largest thermal springs in Canada!
The awesome boreal forest setting of the change house and pool.

It was already dark by the time SPHP returned.

Welcome back!  So, how was it, SPHP?

It was a dull little crowd, but the hot springs were fabulous, Loop.  Feels fantastic to be so warm and clean again!  Too bad Dingoes aren’t allowed. 

Wouldn’t matter if they were, SPHP.  Hot springs aren’t a Carolina Dog favorite.

Chef Boyardee spaghetti for dinner a little later on was, though.

Hey!  What are you doing?  Leave some for me, Loopster.

You had your fun, SPHP.  My turn now!  

9-12-23, 7:02 AM, 49ºF – Another mild night.  So nice to be warm!  The sun wasn’t even on the hills quite yet when Lupe first went out to sniff the air, but that soon changed.

Morning along the Alaska Highway. Photo looks NW.

Another travel day, SPHP?

Afraid so, Loopster.  Your Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations are just about over.  Don’t worry.  We’ll still have some fun on the way home.

No more big adventures, though, SPHP?

Oh, I wouldn’t say that yet, Looper.  We’ll see.  Anyway, it’s time to hit the road.  Muncho Lake Provincial Park is next.  We’ll stop a few places along the lake, and you’ll get to see Mount Peterson (7,021 ft.) again!

The views from Mount Peterson were awesome last year, SPHP, but the biting gnats in the forest were ghastly, remember?

How could I forget?  Your poor tummy was all swollen and bright red with bites by the time it was over and done with, and those horrid gnats nearly did me in, too.  I almost ran out of antihistamine the next day.

Heading into Muncho Lake Provincial Park. Photo looks SSE.
Mount Peterson (R of Center) from Muncho Lake. Photo looks S.
Sentinel Range from down by the lakeshore. Photo looks NNE.

No biting gnats today!  At least, not during a romp along the gravelly shore of Muncho Lake.  It really was fun seeing Mount Peterson again, and remembering its long N ridge snaking away toward Muncho Lake from on high.  Returning to the RAV4 after her Muncho Lake tour, Lupe then got to see Peak 7669 and Mount Scott (8,000 ft.), one of the highest peaks in the entire region, during the Alaska Highway’s descent into the Toad River valley.

Another look at Mount Peterson (R). Photo looks S.
Peak 7669 (L of Center), Mount Scott (Center). Photo looks SSE.

The scenery was gorgeous along the Toad River.  Approaching one of the first pullouts near the river, SPHP slowed way down, then went on.

What was wrong with that spot, SPHP?  The view was sublime!

Yeah.  Complete with a porcupine, too!  So, I thought better of it.  I’d rather you didn’t make its acquaintance.

Not to worry!  Plenty of spots to get out and sniff along the way.

Autumn at the Toad River. Photo looks NNE.
An upstream view. Photo looks WSW.
A big alluvial fan across the Toad River. Photo looks N.
Downstream view. Photo looks NE.

9-12-23, 9:35 AM, 58ºF – The Toad River was splendid, but the next river, one of its main tributaries, was a long time favorite, and the site of many fond memories.  In fact, exactly a year ago today, Lupe had climbed Racing Peak from along its stony floodplain.

Alaska Highway bridge over the Racing River. Racing Peak (L edge). Photo looks NE.

The Racing River!  We’ve got to spend some time here, SPHP!

Absolutely, Sweet Puppy!  Let’s wander upstream for a while.

This jaunt along the Racing River, with Peak 7201 always beckoning in the distance, had become a more or less annual fall tradition.

Near the start of the upstream stroll. Photo looks SSE.
Peak 7201 (R of Center). Photo looks SSW.

As always, this was a happy outing, yet there was a touch of sadness about it, too.  Golden trees spoke not only of all the glorious adventures the Summer of 2023 had brought Lupe, but of the fast approaching end of these never-to-return halcyon days.

A snazzy little peak across the Racing River. Photo looks E.

Almost every year, Lupe went a little farther.  This time, the turnaround point came along a channel being abandoned by the river.

Separated from the main course by a couple of channels. Photo looks S.
Near the end of 2023’s Racing River romp. Peak 7201 (Center). Photo looks SSW.

Are we ever going to climb Peak 7201, SPHP?

I don’t know, Loop.  I’ve thought about it many times.  Looks like a terrific adventure, but may be beyond our capabilities.

Certainly not happening today.  On the way back, Lupe explored part of the forest.  Near the end, there was that magnificent view of the Alaska Highway bridge and Racing Peak (4,409 ft.).  The Racing Peak dream had come true, maybe someday the Peak 7201 dream would, too?

Exploring the forest. Racing Peak (L). Photo looks NE.
Racing Peak (L) from the Racing River. Photo looks NE.

9-12-23, 11:05 AM, 66ºF, back at the RAV4 –

It’s been fun, but for a travel day, we’ve enjoyed a mighty leisurely start, Loopster.  We better get serious about making some highway tracks!

What about lunch, SPHP?  We skipped breakfast, and I’m hungry!

Lunch?  I suppose you’re right, Looper.  We ought to eat something.  How about we stop at the picnic ground at Summit Lake in Stone Mountain Provincial Park?  We ought to get there right around noon.

Lunch with a view of Mount Saint George!  Sounds great, SPHP.  By the way, do we have any more Chef Boyardee spaghetti?

I’ll have to check when we get there, Chow Dingo!

Peak 7201 from the Racing River, Muskwa Ranges, British Columbia, Canada 9-12-23

Links:

Next Adventure                   Prior Adventure

Mount Peterson, Muskwa Ranges, Muncho Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (9-10-22)

Racing Peak, Muskwa Ranges, British Columbia, Canada (9-12-22)

Mount Saint George, Stone Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (8-5-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Racing Peak, Muskwa Ranges, British Columbia, Canada (9-12-22)

Days 44 to 48 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9-11-22, 7:02 AM, 31ºF – First night below freezing of this entire Dingo Vacation.  The R side of SPHP’s face and neck were a swollen mass of gnat bite upon gnat bite.  After taking 2 Benadryl, SPHP fired up the RAV4, then began driving slowly S on the Alaska Highway, turning up the heater when Lupe began trembling, shaking like a leaf.

You OK, Loop?  Are you cold, or is it something else?  Should warm up in just a few minutes.

Both, SPHP.  I’m cold, and not well.  Not sure what’s wrong with me.

Probably those hundreds of horrid gnat bites on your abdomen.  Wish I had some Dingo anti-histamines to give you, but you’ll just have to tough it out.  It’ll get better, but may take a while.

Two caribou near the road sent the Carolina Dog into a sudden frenzy, her cares temporarily forgotten.  Lupe continued to tremble for a long way, though, until the RAV4 warmed up, a process that took considerably longer than it should have, because she insisted on riding with her head out an open window facing directly into the cold wind.

The drive down the Toad River valley was gorgeous, but the highway eventually abandoned the scenic river for the next valley SE.  A favorite spot was just ahead.  After crossing the Alaska Highway bridge over the Racing River, SPHP turned into a pullout where there were dispersed camping sites hidden among the trees near the icy blue river.

The Racing River!  I remember this place, SPHP!  So incredibly beautiful!  Are we going to do our usual upstream romp again?

Later on, Loop.  Just going to hang out here for a while until we feel better.

9-11-22, 11:28 AM – SPHP wasn’t really much better yet, but it did feel good to be on the move again.  After driving back across the bridge, and parking the RAV4 at the start of another dispersed camping region, Lupe led the way to a familiar low bank overlooking the Racing River.

Alaska Highway bridge over the Racing River. Photo looks NE (downstream).

The Carolina Dog wasn’t healed up yet, either, but Lupe was enthusiastic during a 20+ minute romp upstream, sometimes roaming up on the bank sniffing her way through stands of young aspens just beginning to turn yellow, at other times roaming the sandbars and rounded, white stones of the exposed riverbed.

At the turnaround point, Lupe enjoyed a tantalizing view of Peak 7203 in the distance.  Highlands in front of it had always looked like a fun place to explore, but even they were a long way off, and the forest got thick only a little farther upstream.

Peak 7203 (R of Center) in the distance. Photo looks SSW.

By the time Lupe was back close to the Alaska Highway bridge again, blue sky was beginning to appear.

Turning sunny, SPHP!  There’s that little mountain we were always going to climb some day to get a view of the Racing River from on high.  We’re here now!  Are we ever actually going to do it?

Yes, but not today.  Racing Peak (4,409 ft.) is bigger than it looks.  More than 2,000 feet of prominence.  In any case, at the moment we’re too beat up from your Mount Peterson (7,021 ft.) adventure yesterday to take it on.  That’s the plan for tomorrow, though, if the weather stays decent.

Racing Peak (L) and Peak 5212 (R) from the Racing River. Photo looks NE.

9-12-22, 7:05 AM – Frosty this morning, a hard freeze.  Good!  Maybe the past couple of cold nights had put a sudden, permanent end to the gnats.

You didn’t OD on anti-histamines last night, SPHP?  You know, you really shouldn’t be taking the max dosage of more than one drug at a time.

True, but not taking them might have done me in even quicker.  Anyway, don’t worry about it.  I’m still here, and the swelling has gone down a lot.  Besides, I can’t keep my ODing attempt up much longer, even if I want to.  About to run out of Benadryl and everything else.  How’s your abdomen faring, Loop?  Any better?

Yes, thank you, SPHP.  And without taking a single anti-histamine.

Oh, that’s great news, Loopster, but you aren’t allergic to the world like I am.  That’s the difference.  I’ve got to have them.

Whatever.  Anyway, kind of cloudy today, but it doesn’t look threatening at all.  Are we still going to climb Racing Peak, SPHP?

Yup.  Let’s have some breakfast first, and let it warm up a bit, then we’ll be on our way.

9-12-22, 9:50 AM, 37ºF – After crossing the Alaska Highway, Lupe headed down a steep bank.  An opening in a fence line let her slip through down to the stoney, exposed riverbed.

Setting out for Racing Peak from the Alaska Highway. Photo looks SE.
On the exposed riverbed near the Alaska Highway bridge. Photo looks SE.

First time we’ll ever have explored downstream here, SPHP!

Yup, I know it!  Should be a blast, Looper!  Flat and easy start, although a bit bumpy, for a long way.

Following the Racing River downstream. Racing Peak (L), Peak 5212 (Center). Photo looks NE.

Lupe followed the Racing River only a relatively short distance before starting to angle away from it in the general direction of Racing Peak.  Vegetation was springing up along abandoned channels, some of which still had a little water in them.  No doubt the entire region still flooded now and then.

The floodplain was huge, but as Lupe got farther from the river, it was clear that most of it seldom saw significant flow.  Scattered stands of young trees were gradually taking over.

Heading for Racing Peak (Center). Photo looks NE.
S end of Racing Peak (L of Center) from an open lane. Photo looks NE.
Crossing a channel that had a little flow. Racing Peak (L), Peak 5212 (R).
Still on the floodplain, enjoying swift, easy progress. Photo looks NE.

Well away from the river, Lupe came to a stagnant pool the size of a small pond.  A 20 foot high vertical bank marking the NW edge of the floodplain was visible beyond it.  Following a broad, stoney channel NE from the pool, a trickle of water quickly became a substantial stream emerging from underground.  It soon got so big that crossing it was clearly going to be an issue.

Huh.  I’d hoped we could get closer to Racing Peak before having to leave the floodplain, Looper, but we better go back, if we don’t want to get wet.

Returning to the dry area near the stagnant pool, Lupe headed over to the 20 foot vertical bank.  A brief search revealed a break where it was possible to scramble up.

A vast region above the bank was flat, having also once been part of the floodplain eons ago.  Since the Racing River no longer flooded this area, the forest was mature and full of thick grass.  Fortunately, a network of game trails ran through it all.  Lupe had a fabulous time exploring, while still making good progress in the general direction of Racing Peak, which was no longer in view.

Exploring a game trail in the forest.

Lupe wandered N, trying this trail, or that, through various twists, turns, and intersections.  Of course, many soon simply vanished in the forest, requiring some bushwhacking to find another path.  At times, the forest got rather intense.  On the other paw, every now and then, the American Dingo ran into what amounted to a super highway.

This is awesome! Hardly any vicious gnats today, either, after the frost!
Searching for another path through the wilderness.
On a Dingo super highway.

As Lupe got deeper into the forest, the terrain wasn’t as flat.  The map showed a stream that would have to be crossed, but the Carolina Dog hadn’t come to it.  After half an hour, a shallow, dry ravine appeared.  N of the ravine, another trail led up a high bank to a region of tall aspens.

Heading up the next bank, which was bigger, but wasn’t so vertical.

This upper region was also fairly flat, but trails were scarcer here, which slowed progress somewhat.  That didn’t bother the American Dingo in the least.  Lupe was still having a grand time roaming at will.

On a faint trail along the edge of the upper flat region.
Farther on, off trail again among the tall aspens.

Loopster had been wandering the woods for an hour when she came to the first big slope.  Time to start climbing!  As she gained elevation, the trees began to thin out.  Glimpses of the S end of Racing Peak appeared ahead.  A good initial climb led to a beautiful sunlit forest thick with tall grass where the terrain wasn’t as steep.

Ascending the first big slope. S end of Racing Peak (R) visible between the trees. Photo looks NE.
In the sunlit, deep grass forest.

The flatter regions were much smaller now, but Lupe still came to some every now and then.  Most of the time, though, she was climbing rather steep slopes.  The steepest was a surprisingly treeless slope covered with bushes that she had to face fairly early on.

Still suffering the effects of the Mount Peterson adventure 2 days ago, SPHP toiled slowly higher, often pausing to gasp for air, or grab bushes for support.  An unexpected use trail with switchbacks helped make this super steep slope easier to get up than it otherwise would have been.

When Lupe finally reached the top, a short break was taken on a flat, roomy, grassy area.  Trees provided some shade, but this spot was open enough to permit initial views, too.

There’s what we came to see, SPHP!  The Racing River from on high!  Seems farther away than I thought it would be.

Pretty nice view, though, wouldn’t you say, Loop?  Should get even better as we keep climbing.

What’s that big mountain beyond the river, SPHP?  Does it have a name?

Not that I know of, Looper.  Elevation of 1,815 meters according to the topo map.  That would make it Peak 5955.

Peak 5955 (L) beyond the Racing River. Photo looks S.

Plenty of mountain yet to climb!  In fact, more than it appeared from this first break spot.  After a short rest, Lupe resumed her ascent.

The climb ahead from the first break spot. Photo looks NE.

Most of the time, Lupe ventured through open forest, but there were meadows, too.  The rate of climb remained aggressive enough to keep SPHP grinding slowly higher, but wasn’t as steep as before.  Sticking near the S edge of the mountain, intermittent views kept improving.

In a meadow, approaching another flat spot. Photo looks NE.
Peak 5955 (far L), Racing River (Center), Peak 7203 (R of Center). Photo looks SE.
On another grassy bench. Photo looks E.
A fabulous view of the Racing River. Peak 5955 (R). Photo looks SSE.

Racing Peak wasn’t all that big, but it seemed to be taking an incredibly long time merely to get to the high point at the S end of the mountain.  SPHP finally just sat down in the forest.  Lupe took a seat, too.

Relaxing in the forest.

Whew!  Let’s take a longer break, Loop.  Keep thinking we’re going to top out at any moment, but we don’t.  How much farther can it be?

You feeling OK, SPHP?  You’ve really been dragging on this one.  Maybe it’s all that Benadryl you’ve been taking?  Makes you drowsy, doesn’t it?

Yeah, but I don’t feel sleepy now, Looper.  My gnat bites are actually quite a bit better.  Just tired.  Surprised you’re so perky.  Your gnat bites must be considerably better, too.

I’m healing up fast, SPHP.

Really glad you’re doing so well, Loopster.  Give me a few more minutes, and we’ll carry on.

No big rush, SPHP.  We’ll get there!

The Carolina Dog was soon leading the way again, frequently glancing back to make sure SPHP was still coming.

Keep coming, SPHP! You can do it!

Got pretty steep again, but really nothing difficult about it, just a hike up a big hill.  SPHP summoned the energy from somewhere to keep at it.

3:44 PM –  The main reason for climbing Racing Peak (4,409 ft.) had been to see the beautiful Racing River from on high.  Mission complete!  Lupe now stood near the edge of towering SE facing cliffs at the S end of the mountain, enjoying a tremendous view of the Racing River more than 1,700 feet below.

The panorama included everything she’d been seeing earlier, including the Alaska Highway bridge where she’d started out from, Peak 5955, plus McDonald Creek, which was now in sight to the E.

The grand view from the S end of Racing Peak. Peak 5955 (L of Center), Racing River (R). Photo looks SSW.
Alaska Highway (L). McDonald Creek lies in the valley beyond it. Photo looks SE.

Well, we’ve seen what we came to see, SPHP!  The icy blue Racing River amid all these fabulous, unspoiled mountains.  Magnificent, isn’t it?

Absolutely!  Thrilled we finally did this, Loopster, but our adventure isn’t over yet.  As we’ve seen before from down by the river, this may be the best viewpoint, but it isn’t the true summit of Racing Peak.  Not even close.

Let’s complete our ascent then, SPHP.  Gotta make it official, you know!

Racing Peak’s summit was still nearly a mile NNW, and close to 500 feet higher.  After bidding the long dreamed of grand panorama farewell, Lupe headed that way.

The first part of this journey involved a short stretch through the forest on the W side of a long ridge.  Following a newly discovered path, Lupe gained 100 feet of elevation fairly quickly, reaching the rocky top of a long line of E facing cliffs.  From here it was possible to see more of the Racing River, all the way NE to its confluence with McDonald Creek.

Getting close to the top of the ridge. Photo looks NNE.
More of the Racing River. Confluence with McDonald Creek (L). Peak 5212 beyond. Photo looks ENE.
Confluence of the Racing River and McDonald Creek (far L). Photo looks ENE with help from the telephoto lens.

Returning to the path, Lupe continued NNW along the ridge, gaining only a little more elevation before coming to a drop.  A series of higher hills was now visible ahead.  Apparently, the most distant one was the summit of Racing Peak.

Continuing NNW along the ridgeline. Photo looks NE.
At the N end of the S ridge. Racing Peak summit (R). Photo looks NW.

The descent to the saddle leading to the next hill was a little steep, but not difficult.  Lupe was soon climbing again on an easier slope.  The top of this second high point proved to be choked with deadfall, part of the forest having previously burned, which considerably slowed progress while crossing the large, flat top.

In a pattern that would be repeated, each of the hills Lupe came to were higher than the previous ones, except for the 3rd and 4th, which were essentially the same elevation.  In each case, the W slopes were sunnier and more open, while the E sides were all forested.

Approaching the top of the next hill (2nd high point). Photo looks NW.
Racing River (Center) from the 2nd high point. Peak 5955 (L). Photo looks SW.

Racing Peak had 4 false summits in all, including the first ridge near the S end of the mountain.  The 3 hills past the ridge all had large, flat tops.  The dips after the third and fourth high points were relatively minor, their N slopes full of densely packed bushes waist high on SPHP.

View of the 3rd high point ahead (Center) after crossing the 2nd. Photo looks N.
Heading up the 2nd hill (3rd high point). Photo looks N.
Crossing the 3rd high point. True summit (R). Photo looks N.

The 250 foot ascent from the last saddle was the biggest and steepest of the journey NNW.  SPHP clung to trees and bushes during the first part, before reaching an open, gentler slope leading to a rounded top.

5:44 PM, 61ºF, Racing Peak (4,409 ft.) – A survey benchmark was shown on the topo map, but SPHP couldn’t find it.  Amid trees, bushes, and tall grass, it wasn’t even possible to positively identify an exact true summit.  A fairly large area toward the N end was nearly all the same elevation.  Lupe had clearly made it, though, all the way to the top of the mountain.

Happy, the Carolina Dog sat smiling in the evening sun.

At the true summit of Racing Peak. Photo looks S.

Congratulations, Loopster!  Took way longer than I thought it would, but here we are.

A dream come true, SPHP!  Been on my to do list for years.  It’s actually been fun, wandering the river’s floodplain, then the long, leisurely amble sniffing our way through the forest, and up the mountain.  Loved it!

Me too, Loop, but there’s not much to see right here.  Let me shake your paw, then why don’t we go take a nice, long break back at that last open slope with a view?

Great idea, SPHP!  Getting to be chocolate coconut bar time, isn’t it?  You did bring one, didn’t you?

Ah, you’re in luck, sweet Dingo!  Brought 2 to celebrate the occasion.

Retreating SW after sharing in the dispatch of the chocolate coconut bars, Lupe relaxed on a grassy slope where the Racing River was in view.  A gorgeous evening!  Comfortably cool, no wind, only a few clouds.  Surrounded by glory in far N British Columbia, Lupe watched the sun sink slowly toward the mountains until her eyes grew heavy.

The American Dingo may have dozed, as SPHP sat stroking her soft fur while admiring the scene.  A short section of the Toad River was in sight to the NW, and everywhere a host of unnamed, inaccessible wilderness mountains stretched to the horizon and beyond.

Relaxing on Racing Peak. Photo looks SW.
Looking back toward the summit. Photo looks NE.
A glimpse of the Toad River (L of Center). Photo looks NW.
End of a fabulous, late summer day. Photo looks W.

Nearly an hour flew by.

Hate to say it, but it’s about time, Looper.

Already, SPHP?  Can we revisit the true summit before we go?

But of course!

Back at the true summit, SPHP made a last brief effort to find the survey benchmark, but once again concluded that it was either long gone, or that finding it would be next to impossible.  In any case, exactly an hour after arriving, the Carolina Dog stood poised on Racing Peak’s SW slope ready to head down the mountain.

Back at the true summit. Photo looks S.
Starting the descent. Photo looks SW.

During the steep descent to the first saddle leading back to the 4 false summits, Lupe spotted a ptarmigan among the bushes, the only wildlife she’d seen, other than a little white and gray bird that had come flitting by while she’d been relaxing.

On the way down to the false summits (Center). Peak 5955 (R of Center), Racing River (R). Photo looks SSE.
The ptarmigan. Apparent lone ruler of a vast wilderness.

Once down to the first saddle, SPHP made an admittedly questionable decision.  Instead of a second journey over all the false summits again, why not head down right here?  The W slope didn’t look too bad, and Lupe could get down quicker this way.  Besides, a loop is almost always more fun, isn’t it?

Despite deadfall complicating Lupe’s descent of the upper W slope, it proved quite manageable.  The real issues began lower.  Still descending steeply, the American Dingo entered a vast, unavoidable region of dense bushes chest high, sometimes head high, on SPHP.

Progress was still possible, but, wow, was it ever slow going!

Hours ticked away.  Even twilight was gone, by the time Lupe managed to escape the bushes, and reach a creek she hadn’t seen before.  Flowing SE, SPHP knew it must ultimately vanish underground somewhere on its way to the Racing River.  Attempting to follow the creek downstream in the weak beam of the little flashlight, the valley was a dreadfully dark, steep-sided, confusing jumble of trees, branches, and deadfall.

SPHP kept hoping and expecting that this valley would broaden out into one of the flat regions Lupe had crossed this morning.  Didn’t happen.  The world is a very big place on paw.

Something had to be done!  SPHP had created a GPS track during Lupe’s ascent of Racing Peak, but had turned the iPhone off once she got there, because the battery was just about dead.  Although no maps at all of this region had been preloaded into the iPhone, at least Lupe could head for the GPS track.  Turning the iPhone back on, the track’s closest point was due E.

Can’t be too far, Loop.  0.5 km?  Let’s try to get to it.  At least we’ll be in the right area.

Climbing out of the narrow valley, Lupe reached easier terrain with far fewer obstacles.  Eventually working her way over to the ascent GPS track, she followed it SSW.  The iPhone’s battery ultimately went kaput, but not until she’d reached the 20 foot high vertical bank overlooking the Racing River’s floodplain.

9-13-22, the witching hour – A nearly full moon, just beginning to wane, had crept above the mountains illuminating the stoney floodplain of the Racing River when SPHP called a halt.  The night air was cold and still.  Lupe could see her breath.  All around loomed the dark shadows of the mountains.  The Racing River was close by, its icy blue waters now black, singing softly of the far N.

Lupe’s Racing Peak adventure would soon be over.  Weary, needing it to end, it was both a sad and happy thought.  Alone together at this magical moment, Lupe and SPHP relished the night, rejoicing in this amazing place, and all the day had brought.

Magic never lasts, but the spell was strong here, persisting all the way back to the RAV4.  (9-13-22, 1:37 AM, 31ºF)

9-13-22, 8:39 AM, Summit Lake, Stone Mountain Provincial Park A travel and rest day, but adventure was still in the air the next morning when Lupe dropped by the campground at Summit Lake to see Mount Saint George (7,402 ft.).  She’d nearly gotten to the top of it once, when sudden fog and an electrical storm had forced a retreat.

Mount Saint George (L) from Summit Lake. Photo looks SW.

As it turned out, Racing Peak was the Carolina Dog’s last adventure of this final Dingo Vacation of the Summer of 2022.  Late in the afternoon coming into Fort John, the sky had been smoky ever since leaving Fort Nelson.  Highway 29 up the Peace River valley back into mountainous territory was unexpectedly closed due to wildfires.

Nearly mid-September.  Summer was about shot, and Lupe was already back into the smoke.  Oh, well.  Probably time to head home, anyway.

The long drive continued the next 2 days.  Lupe saw mountains, but didn’t climb any.  All outings were brief.

9-15-22, 5:53 PM, 64ºF – A light rain was falling as Lupe arrived home.  Her Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations had been awesome!  She’d climbed fabulous peaks from Wyoming to Alaska’s North Slope.  For the first time in 3 years, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had returned to the far N, venturing all the way to Deadhorse near Prudhoe Bay of the Arctic Ocean.

Good to be home again, but depressing to think that these precious long days of summer glory were all in the rear view mirror now.

Making matters worse, when SPHP checked email, there was a message from Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea saying that Cousin Dusty had died early this very morning while Lupe had been crossing Montana.

On Racing Peak. Muskwa Ranges, British Columbia, Canada 9-12-22

Links:

Next Adventure                     Prior Adventure

Lupe’s GPS Track

Remembering Cousin Dusty

Summit Peak & Mount Saint Paul, Stone Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (8-4-17)

Mount Saint George, Stone Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (8-5-17)

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