Days 44 to 48 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
9-11-22, 7:02 AM, 31ºF – First night below freezing of this entire Dingo Vacation. The R side of SPHP’s face and neck were a swollen mass of gnat bite upon gnat bite. After taking 2 Benadryl, SPHP fired up the RAV4, then began driving slowly S on the Alaska Highway, turning up the heater when Lupe began trembling, shaking like a leaf.
You OK, Loop? Are you cold, or is it something else? Should warm up in just a few minutes.
Both, SPHP. I’m cold, and not well. Not sure what’s wrong with me.
Probably those hundreds of horrid gnat bites on your abdomen. Wish I had some Dingo anti-histamines to give you, but you’ll just have to tough it out. It’ll get better, but may take a while.
Two caribou near the road sent the Carolina Dog into a sudden frenzy, her cares temporarily forgotten. Lupe continued to tremble for a long way, though, until the RAV4 warmed up, a process that took considerably longer than it should have, because she insisted on riding with her head out an open window facing directly into the cold wind.
The drive down the Toad River valley was gorgeous, but the highway eventually abandoned the scenic river for the next valley SE. A favorite spot was just ahead. After crossing the Alaska Highway bridge over the Racing River, SPHP turned into a pullout where there were dispersed camping sites hidden among the trees near the icy blue river.
The Racing River! I remember this place, SPHP! So incredibly beautiful! Are we going to do our usual upstream romp again?
Later on, Loop. Just going to hang out here for a while until we feel better.
9-11-22, 11:28 AM – SPHP wasn’t really much better yet, but it did feel good to be on the move again. After driving back across the bridge, and parking the RAV4 at the start of another dispersed camping region, Lupe led the way to a familiar low bank overlooking the Racing River.
The Carolina Dog wasn’t healed up yet, either, but Lupe was enthusiastic during a 20+ minute romp upstream, sometimes roaming up on the bank sniffing her way through stands of young aspens just beginning to turn yellow, at other times roaming the sandbars and rounded, white stones of the exposed riverbed.
At the turnaround point, Lupe enjoyed a tantalizing view of Peak 7203 in the distance. Highlands in front of it had always looked like a fun place to explore, but even they were a long way off, and the forest got thick only a little farther upstream.
By the time Lupe was back close to the Alaska Highway bridge again, blue sky was beginning to appear.
Turning sunny, SPHP! There’s that little mountain we were always going to climb some day to get a view of the Racing River from on high. We’re here now! Are we ever actually going to do it?
Yes, but not today. Racing Peak (4,409 ft.) is bigger than it looks. More than 2,000 feet of prominence. In any case, at the moment we’re too beat up from your Mount Peterson (7,021 ft.) adventure yesterday to take it on. That’s the plan for tomorrow, though, if the weather stays decent.
9-12-22, 7:05 AM – Frosty this morning, a hard freeze. Good! Maybe the past couple of cold nights had put a sudden, permanent end to the gnats.
You didn’t OD on anti-histamines last night, SPHP? You know, you really shouldn’t be taking the max dosage of more than one drug at a time.
True, but not taking them might have done me in even quicker. Anyway, don’t worry about it. I’m still here, and the swelling has gone down a lot. Besides, I can’t keep my ODing attempt up much longer, even if I want to. About to run out of Benadryl and everything else. How’s your abdomen faring, Loop? Any better?
Yes, thank you, SPHP. And without taking a single anti-histamine.
Oh, that’s great news, Loopster, but you aren’t allergic to the world like I am. That’s the difference. I’ve got to have them.
Whatever. Anyway, kind of cloudy today, but it doesn’t look threatening at all. Are we still going to climb Racing Peak, SPHP?
Yup. Let’s have some breakfast first, and let it warm up a bit, then we’ll be on our way.
9-12-22, 9:50 AM, 37ºF – After crossing the Alaska Highway, Lupe headed down a steep bank. An opening in a fence line let her slip through down to the stoney, exposed riverbed.
First time we’ll ever have explored downstream here, SPHP!
Yup, I know it! Should be a blast, Looper! Flat and easy start, although a bit bumpy, for a long way.
Lupe followed the Racing River only a relatively short distance before starting to angle away from it in the general direction of Racing Peak. Vegetation was springing up along abandoned channels, some of which still had a little water in them. No doubt the entire region still flooded now and then.
The floodplain was huge, but as Lupe got farther from the river, it was clear that most of it seldom saw significant flow. Scattered stands of young trees were gradually taking over.
Well away from the river, Lupe came to a stagnant pool the size of a small pond. A 20 foot high vertical bank marking the NW edge of the floodplain was visible beyond it. Following a broad, stoney channel NE from the pool, a trickle of water quickly became a substantial stream emerging from underground. It soon got so big that crossing it was clearly going to be an issue.
Huh. I’d hoped we could get closer to Racing Peak before having to leave the floodplain, Looper, but we better go back, if we don’t want to get wet.
Returning to the dry area near the stagnant pool, Lupe headed over to the 20 foot vertical bank. A brief search revealed a break where it was possible to scramble up.
A vast region above the bank was flat, having also once been part of the floodplain eons ago. Since the Racing River no longer flooded this area, the forest was mature and full of thick grass. Fortunately, a network of game trails ran through it all. Lupe had a fabulous time exploring, while still making good progress in the general direction of Racing Peak, which was no longer in view.
Lupe wandered N, trying this trail, or that, through various twists, turns, and intersections. Of course, many soon simply vanished in the forest, requiring some bushwhacking to find another path. At times, the forest got rather intense. On the other paw, every now and then, the American Dingo ran into what amounted to a super highway.
As Lupe got deeper into the forest, the terrain wasn’t as flat. The map showed a stream that would have to be crossed, but the Carolina Dog hadn’t come to it. After half an hour, a shallow, dry ravine appeared. N of the ravine, another trail led up a high bank to a region of tall aspens.
This upper region was also fairly flat, but trails were scarcer here, which slowed progress somewhat. That didn’t bother the American Dingo in the least. Lupe was still having a grand time roaming at will.
Loopster had been wandering the woods for an hour when she came to the first big slope. Time to start climbing! As she gained elevation, the trees began to thin out. Glimpses of the S end of Racing Peak appeared ahead. A good initial climb led to a beautiful sunlit forest thick with tall grass where the terrain wasn’t as steep.
The flatter regions were much smaller now, but Lupe still came to some every now and then. Most of the time, though, she was climbing rather steep slopes. The steepest was a surprisingly treeless slope covered with bushes that she had to face fairly early on.
Still suffering the effects of the Mount Peterson adventure 2 days ago, SPHP toiled slowly higher, often pausing to gasp for air, or grab bushes for support. An unexpected use trail with switchbacks helped make this super steep slope easier to get up than it otherwise would have been.
When Lupe finally reached the top, a short break was taken on a flat, roomy, grassy area. Trees provided some shade, but this spot was open enough to permit initial views, too.
There’s what we came to see, SPHP! The Racing River from on high! Seems farther away than I thought it would be.
Pretty nice view, though, wouldn’t you say, Loop? Should get even better as we keep climbing.
What’s that big mountain beyond the river, SPHP? Does it have a name?
Not that I know of, Looper. Elevation of 1,815 meters according to the topo map. That would make it Peak 5955.
Plenty of mountain yet to climb! In fact, more than it appeared from this first break spot. After a short rest, Lupe resumed her ascent.
Most of the time, Lupe ventured through open forest, but there were meadows, too. The rate of climb remained aggressive enough to keep SPHP grinding slowly higher, but wasn’t as steep as before. Sticking near the S edge of the mountain, intermittent views kept improving.
Racing Peak wasn’t all that big, but it seemed to be taking an incredibly long time merely to get to the high point at the S end of the mountain. SPHP finally just sat down in the forest. Lupe took a seat, too.
Whew! Let’s take a longer break, Loop. Keep thinking we’re going to top out at any moment, but we don’t. How much farther can it be?
You feeling OK, SPHP? You’ve really been dragging on this one. Maybe it’s all that Benadryl you’ve been taking? Makes you drowsy, doesn’t it?
Yeah, but I don’t feel sleepy now, Looper. My gnat bites are actually quite a bit better. Just tired. Surprised you’re so perky. Your gnat bites must be considerably better, too.
I’m healing up fast, SPHP.
Really glad you’re doing so well, Loopster. Give me a few more minutes, and we’ll carry on.
No big rush, SPHP. We’ll get there!
The Carolina Dog was soon leading the way again, frequently glancing back to make sure SPHP was still coming.
Got pretty steep again, but really nothing difficult about it, just a hike up a big hill. SPHP summoned the energy from somewhere to keep at it.
3:44 PM – The main reason for climbing Racing Peak (4,409 ft.) had been to see the beautiful Racing River from on high. Mission complete! Lupe now stood near the edge of towering SE facing cliffs at the S end of the mountain, enjoying a tremendous view of the Racing River more than 1,700 feet below.
The panorama included everything she’d been seeing earlier, including the Alaska Highway bridge where she’d started out from, Peak 5955, plus McDonald Creek, which was now in sight to the E.
Well, we’ve seen what we came to see, SPHP! The icy blue Racing River amid all these fabulous, unspoiled mountains. Magnificent, isn’t it?
Absolutely! Thrilled we finally did this, Loopster, but our adventure isn’t over yet. As we’ve seen before from down by the river, this may be the best viewpoint, but it isn’t the true summit of Racing Peak. Not even close.
Let’s complete our ascent then, SPHP. Gotta make it official, you know!
Racing Peak’s summit was still nearly a mile NNW, and close to 500 feet higher. After bidding the long dreamed of grand panorama farewell, Lupe headed that way.
The first part of this journey involved a short stretch through the forest on the W side of a long ridge. Following a newly discovered path, Lupe gained 100 feet of elevation fairly quickly, reaching the rocky top of a long line of E facing cliffs. From here it was possible to see more of the Racing River, all the way NE to its confluence with McDonald Creek.
Returning to the path, Lupe continued NNW along the ridge, gaining only a little more elevation before coming to a drop. A series of higher hills was now visible ahead. Apparently, the most distant one was the summit of Racing Peak.
The descent to the saddle leading to the next hill was a little steep, but not difficult. Lupe was soon climbing again on an easier slope. The top of this second high point proved to be choked with deadfall, part of the forest having previously burned, which considerably slowed progress while crossing the large, flat top.
In a pattern that would be repeated, each of the hills Lupe came to were higher than the previous ones, except for the 3rd and 4th, which were essentially the same elevation. In each case, the W slopes were sunnier and more open, while the E sides were all forested.
Racing Peak had 4 false summits in all, including the first ridge near the S end of the mountain. The 3 hills past the ridge all had large, flat tops. The dips after the third and fourth high points were relatively minor, their N slopes full of densely packed bushes waist high on SPHP.
The 250 foot ascent from the last saddle was the biggest and steepest of the journey NNW. SPHP clung to trees and bushes during the first part, before reaching an open, gentler slope leading to a rounded top.
5:44 PM, 61ºF, Racing Peak (4,409 ft.) – A survey benchmark was shown on the topo map, but SPHP couldn’t find it. Amid trees, bushes, and tall grass, it wasn’t even possible to positively identify an exact true summit. A fairly large area toward the N end was nearly all the same elevation. Lupe had clearly made it, though, all the way to the top of the mountain.
Happy, the Carolina Dog sat smiling in the evening sun.
Congratulations, Loopster! Took way longer than I thought it would, but here we are.
A dream come true, SPHP! Been on my to do list for years. It’s actually been fun, wandering the river’s floodplain, then the long, leisurely amble sniffing our way through the forest, and up the mountain. Loved it!
Me too, Loop, but there’s not much to see right here. Let me shake your paw, then why don’t we go take a nice, long break back at that last open slope with a view?
Great idea, SPHP! Getting to be chocolate coconut bar time, isn’t it? You did bring one, didn’t you?
Ah, you’re in luck, sweet Dingo! Brought 2 to celebrate the occasion.
Retreating SW after sharing in the dispatch of the chocolate coconut bars, Lupe relaxed on a grassy slope where the Racing River was in view. A gorgeous evening! Comfortably cool, no wind, only a few clouds. Surrounded by glory in far N British Columbia, Lupe watched the sun sink slowly toward the mountains until her eyes grew heavy.
The American Dingo may have dozed, as SPHP sat stroking her soft fur while admiring the scene. A short section of the Toad River was in sight to the NW, and everywhere a host of unnamed, inaccessible wilderness mountains stretched to the horizon and beyond.
Nearly an hour flew by.
Hate to say it, but it’s about time, Looper.
Already, SPHP? Can we revisit the true summit before we go?
But of course!
Back at the true summit, SPHP made a last brief effort to find the survey benchmark, but once again concluded that it was either long gone, or that finding it would be next to impossible. In any case, exactly an hour after arriving, the Carolina Dog stood poised on Racing Peak’s SW slope ready to head down the mountain.
During the steep descent to the first saddle leading back to the 4 false summits, Lupe spotted a ptarmigan among the bushes, the only wildlife she’d seen, other than a little white and gray bird that had come flitting by while she’d been relaxing.
Once down to the first saddle, SPHP made an admittedly questionable decision. Instead of a second journey over all the false summits again, why not head down right here? The W slope didn’t look too bad, and Lupe could get down quicker this way. Besides, a loop is almost always more fun, isn’t it?
Despite deadfall complicating Lupe’s descent of the upper W slope, it proved quite manageable. The real issues began lower. Still descending steeply, the American Dingo entered a vast, unavoidable region of dense bushes chest high, sometimes head high, on SPHP.
Progress was still possible, but, wow, was it ever slow going!
Hours ticked away. Even twilight was gone, by the time Lupe managed to escape the bushes, and reach a creek she hadn’t seen before. Flowing SE, SPHP knew it must ultimately vanish underground somewhere on its way to the Racing River. Attempting to follow the creek downstream in the weak beam of the little flashlight, the valley was a dreadfully dark, steep-sided, confusing jumble of trees, branches, and deadfall.
SPHP kept hoping and expecting that this valley would broaden out into one of the flat regions Lupe had crossed this morning. Didn’t happen. The world is a very big place on paw.
Something had to be done! SPHP had created a GPS track during Lupe’s ascent of Racing Peak, but had turned the iPhone off once she got there, because the battery was just about dead. Although no maps at all of this region had been preloaded into the iPhone, at least Lupe could head for the GPS track. Turning the iPhone back on, the track’s closest point was due E.
Can’t be too far, Loop. 0.5 km? Let’s try to get to it. At least we’ll be in the right area.
Climbing out of the narrow valley, Lupe reached easier terrain with far fewer obstacles. Eventually working her way over to the ascent GPS track, she followed it SSW. The iPhone’s battery ultimately went kaput, but not until she’d reached the 20 foot high vertical bank overlooking the Racing River’s floodplain.
9-13-22, the witching hour – A nearly full moon, just beginning to wane, had crept above the mountains illuminating the stoney floodplain of the Racing River when SPHP called a halt. The night air was cold and still. Lupe could see her breath. All around loomed the dark shadows of the mountains. The Racing River was close by, its icy blue waters now black, singing softly of the far N.
Lupe’s Racing Peak adventure would soon be over. Weary, needing it to end, it was both a sad and happy thought. Alone together at this magical moment, Lupe and SPHP relished the night, rejoicing in this amazing place, and all the day had brought.
Magic never lasts, but the spell was strong here, persisting all the way back to the RAV4. (9-13-22, 1:37 AM, 31ºF)
9-13-22, 8:39 AM, Summit Lake, Stone Mountain Provincial Park – A travel and rest day, but adventure was still in the air the next morning when Lupe dropped by the campground at Summit Lake to see Mount Saint George (7,402 ft.). She’d nearly gotten to the top of it once, when sudden fog and an electrical storm had forced a retreat.
As it turned out, Racing Peak was the Carolina Dog’s last adventure of this final Dingo Vacation of the Summer of 2022. Late in the afternoon coming into Fort John, the sky had been smoky ever since leaving Fort Nelson. Highway 29 up the Peace River valley back into mountainous territory was unexpectedly closed due to wildfires.
Nearly mid-September. Summer was about shot, and Lupe was already back into the smoke. Oh, well. Probably time to head home, anyway.
The long drive continued the next 2 days. Lupe saw mountains, but didn’t climb any. All outings were brief.
9-15-22, 5:53 PM, 64ºF – A light rain was falling as Lupe arrived home. Her Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations had been awesome! She’d climbed fabulous peaks from Wyoming to Alaska’s North Slope. For the first time in 3 years, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had returned to the far N, venturing all the way to Deadhorse near Prudhoe Bay of the Arctic Ocean.
Good to be home again, but depressing to think that these precious long days of summer glory were all in the rear view mirror now.
Making matters worse, when SPHP checked email, there was a message from Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea saying that Cousin Dusty had died early this very morning while Lupe had been crossing Montana.
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Summit Peak & Mount Saint Paul, Stone Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (8-4-17)
Mount Saint George, Stone Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (8-5-17)
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.
