Liard River Hot Springs & Muncho Lake, British Columbia, Canada (9-8-22 to 9-10-22)

Days 41, 42 & 1st part of day 43 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9-8-22, 7:05 AM, 42ºF, Eldorado trailhead, Warm Bay Road –

Yesterday’s West Sentinel Mountain and Sentinel Mountain adventure had just about done SPHP in.  Worst leg cramps ever last night.  Better now, but a rest day was clearly in order.  SPHP turned the key, firing up the RAV4, before driving slowly N back to Atlin.  On her pink blanket, Lupe gobbled down a bowl of Taste of the Wild.

A brief stop in Atlin for a last look at Birch Mountain across the lake, and the drive N continued, now on Highway No. 7.  Several miles N of the Yukon border, SPHP turned W (L) off the highway at the ridge with the scenic view of the N end of Atlin Lake and Mount Minto (6,913 ft.).

Oh, back at our favorite spot, SPHP!  Want to go for a walk?

Sure!  Think I can manage to amble along a bit here, Looper.

Mount Minto (Center) and the N end of Atlin Lake (L). Photo looks SSW.

The wind was out of the S, as Lupe trotted NW along a level dirt road near the edge of the ridge.  SPHP hobbled after her, enjoying the fresh breeze and magnificent scenery.

On the way back, we can look for squirrels in the forest, Loop!

The American Dingo approved this message, and had a riot sniffing around in the forest, where spindly ground cover sported fall colors.

In the beautiful forest, looking for squirrels.

The rest of the day shot by right here, most of it spent in the RAV4.  After a while, the sky clouded over.  Rained off and on, eventually quit, but the sky remained dreary.  Food, naps, and SPHP worked on the trip journal.  By evening, sunshine appeared far to the SW.  Lupe enjoyed another hour long romp in the forest.  Through it all, the S wind blew.

9-9-22, the wee hours, 3.5 km N of Atlin Lake – Strange and disturbing dreams.  SPHP woke to see a full moon shining through a thin layer of clouds W of Mount Minto, which wore a cap of cloud itself.  Wrapped in a blanket on this cool, breezy night, Lupe was alert and watching.

The moon crept W at about Mount Minto’s height, brightening as it got into the clear, yet not a star was in sight.  Nights were longer now, the possibilities for this Dingo Vacation starting to narrow.  Hours drifted by as the moon stole away.

9-9-22, 8:34 AM, 53ºF, 3.5 km N of Atlin Lake –  Blue skies to the W and SW, with only a thin layer of clouds above.  Mount Minto’s cap was gone.  Pleasantly warm, but whitecaps were visible on Atlin Lake even from here.  The wind was 20-25 mph out of the S, with higher gusts.

Guess we’ve got our answer on what today’s going to be like, Loopster.  Too windy to go climbing mountains.  Any interest in a final romp in the forest before we head E?

The American Dingo was all for it!  For more than half an hour, she had a great time in the woods, until she stepped on something sharp.  Only a small spot of blood, but that put an end to the romp.  Time to go.

9-9-22, 10:45 AM, 57ºF – The wind was out of SE, becoming a headwind by the time Lupe reached Teslin Lake.  Waves rolled into shore, as the Carolina Dog enjoyed a sniff along the water’s edge.

Dawson Peaks (Center) from Teslin Lake. Photo looks SE.

As the long drive E along the Alaska Highway continued into afternoon, the wind died away.

9-9-22, 4:49 PM – SPHP made only a couple of stops, one at a rest area just W of the junction with Cassiar Highway No. 37 to let Lupe stretch her legs during a brief stroll in another forest.  The second stop was for fuel and a few supplies in Watson Lake.

Lupe had left the Yukon behind, and was back in British Columbia, when SPHP finally let her out of the RAV4 again at a bluff overlooking rapids on the Liard River.

Liard River from a pullout along the Alaska Highway. Photo looks S.

I suppose you’ll be wanting to stop at the Liard River Hot Springs again, won’t you, SPHP?

But, of course!  Wouldn’t want to miss out on that!  So much fun, such a bargain, and I’ll sniff a lot better, too, after a nice long soak, Looper.

You are overdue, SPHP.

We’ll soon be there, Loop.  You’ll have to wait in the RAV4, as usual.

That’s OK, SPHP, a hot pool doesn’t sound like fun to me.  However, I’ve been hoping we’d see some wildlife along the Alaska Highway, and there hasn’t been any.  Been a rather dull drive overall.

A second rest day does us both some good, Loopster.  Enjoy it while you can!  Big adventure in store tomorrow, if this weather holds.  Meanwhile, don’t give up on the wildlife, we’ve often seen buffalo along this stretch of the Alaska Highway.

Sure enough, bison were soon providing plenty of Dingo excitement!  Lupe’s enthusiasm wasn’t dimmed in the least by the fact that they paid no attention at all to the pipsqueak making all the racket in the RAV4.

Unperturbed bison along the Alaska Highway.

9-9-22, 6:06 PMLiard River Hot Springs is an absolute must stop along the Alaska Highway, and a line of cars was waiting at the entrance.  The RAV4 was 6th in line, which seemed no big deal, but for some reason, the line wasn’t moving at all.  A man eventually came along and put up a “Campground Full” sign, at which point the line began to move.

The fee for a day pass was still an unbelievably cheap $5.00 CAN, and Dingoes were free!  SPHP was surprised to see a new feature, a serious anti-wildlife electric fence protecting the campground, but everything else seemed to be pretty much the same as the last time Lupe had been here 3 years ago.

At the Liard River Hot Springs entrance.

While Lupe waited in the RAV4, SPHP went through a gate in the electric fence, and took the long boardwalk across a warm water swamp.  The boardwalk continued beyond the swamp into the boreal forest where the change house and hot springs were hidden in a completely natural and unique outdoor setting.

Start of the boardwalk leading to the hot springs.
The warm water swamp reportedly frequented by moose and other wildlife.
Entering the boreal forest.
In the forest.
Arriving at the change house less than 10 minutes from the start.
Posted information near the change house.
Liard River Hot Springs.

The hot springs were busy, but not overly crowded.  SPHP chatted with some of the particularly friendly Canadians.  The water was only 3 or 4 feet deep with a pebble bottom, which was deep enough to swim or float a bit.  An underwater bench provided a place to sit other than the decks by the change house.

You could choose your preferred water temperature by staying either close to where the springs flowed into the pool where the water was hottest, or farther downstream where the water cooled off.  The water was coldest below a small concrete dam.  The bottom was mucky in this lower section which drained into the channel leading to the swamp.

After weeks spent climbing mountains with Lupe, soaking in the warm mineral water was wonderful!  SPHP lingered for nearly 2 hours before reluctantly returning to the RAV4.

View from the hot end of the pool.

How was it, SPHP?

Marvelous!   Look at me!   I’m a new person, clean clothes and everything!

You’ve changed your scent for the better, too, SPHP.  Almost like you’re in disguise!

9-10-22, 7:59 AM, 55ºF – Yesterday had been the warmest, sunniest day in weeks.  Hit 71ºF at one point during the drive to Liard River Hot Springs, and it was surprisingly warm again this morning.  Lupe was bright-eyed and alert as SPHP started the drive into the Muskwa Ranges.  Soon the Carolina Dog was trembling with excitement, barking furiously at bison along both sides of the highway.  A great start to any day!

The long climb into the mountains continued after entering Muncho Lake Provincial Park, but eventually leveled out.  SPHP stopped at the first pullout with a view of Muncho Lake.  Beyond the far end of the lake loomed a mountain that had been on Lupe’s list of possibilities for years.

Mount Peterson (Center) from the N end of Muncho Lake. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Hmm.  Used to be a sign here identifying that awesome peak as Mount Peterson, Loop, but it’s gone now.

Are we going to climb Mount Peterson, SPHP?

Yup, that’s the plan, Loopster, if we can manage to pull it off.  No trails, though, so a lot depends on whether we can bushwhack our way above treeline, or not.

The Northern Rockies Lodge is the premier visitor recreation facility in the Muncho Lake region.  Naturally, the American Dingo dropped by for a look around.  The lodge’s massive log structure was impressive, and in excellent condition.  A stroll down to the lake shore to led to the lodge’s float planes, and another view of Mount Peterson (7,021 ft.).

The yellow float plane that Lupe had seen here before was gone, but the white one was still here.

The Northern Rockies Lodge at Muncho Lake is right along the Alaska Highway.
The white Liard Air float plane used in various adventure tours.
A closer look.
Mount Peterson (Center) from the Northern Rockies Lodge. Photo looks S.

Lupe waited in the RAV4 for a few minutes while SPHP checked out the lodge.  The dining room was closed, but particularly impressive with its many big windows and 3 story vaulted ceiling.

The snazzy Northern Rockies Lodge dining room.

Continuing S, the Alaska Highway ran right along the E side of Muncho Lake.  Several pullouts provided great views of the lake, and plenty of opportunities to gaze upon Mount Peterson as Lupe got closer to it.

Muncho Lake from the Alaska Highway. Photo looks N.

Near the S end of Muncho Lake, the mountains were farther E.  Lupe was excited to see a herd of caribou out enjoying the morning air on a gravelly plain.  Several caribou were tantalizingly near the highway.

Caribou E of the highway.
Caribou.

Beyond a campground at the S end of Muncho Lake, the Alaska Highway began climbing again.  7 km farther, a huge gash on the lower slopes of Mount Peterson extended right down to the road.

The highway had almost leveled out again here, and a big pullout was on the L.  SPHP parked the RAV4 there, and Lupe leapt out.

9-10-22, 9:48 AM, 54ºF, Alaska Highway pullout 7.5 km S of Muncho Lake –

Think this is the spot we should try it from, Loopster!  Clear, calm, and comfortably warm.  Couldn’t be better!  After all these years of dreaming about Mount Peterson, probably the best shot at it we’ll ever get.

Let’s do it, then, SPHP!  Remember to bring a chocolate coconut bar, though!

Better yet, Loop, I’ll bring two!

Liard River Hot Springs, British Columbia, Canada 9-9-22
Mount Peterson from Muncho Lake, British Columbia, Canada 9-10-22

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