Mount Mye, Anvil Range, Yukon Territory, Canada – Part 1: On & Off the Moose Trail to Base Camp (9-8-23)

Part 2 of Day 44 & Days 45 thru 48 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9-4-23, 5:35 PM – For a 4th evening on this Dingo Vacation, the RAV4 was once again parked along the ridge with a view of the N end of Atlin Lake, flanked on the L by Black Mountain (5,738 ft.) and Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.), and on the R by Mount Minto (6,913 ft.).  Drinking the last grape Powerade purchased in Tok, Alaska what seemed like ages ago, it was a view for which SPHP had new found respect.  Crumbs falling on her pink blanket, Lupe finished chomping on a cracker.

Any more summer sausage and Ritz crackers, SPHP?

Nope, that’s all we had left, Loopster.

The Carolina Dog heaved a big sigh, put her head down, and closed her eyes.

After more than 34 sleepless hours, even SPHP’s painfully throbbing shin and toes couldn’t keep the sandman away.

9-5-23, 7:10 AM, 45ºF –  A nearly 14 hour snooze definitely helped.  The sky was overcast, when Lupe woke with a little cough.

You alright, Loop?

It’s nothing, SPHP.  How’s your shin?

Got a big knot on it, and part of my L paw is all purple, Looper, but at least my shin isn’t throbbing any more.  Doesn’t hurt, as long as I don’t touch it.

Are we going to Whitehorse for supplies today, SPHP?

No.  We still have things we can eat, Sweet Puppy.  Just going to hang out here.  You can relax, while I catch up the trip journal.

Salmon for breakfast, baked beans for lunch, chicken and dumplings for dinner.  Lupe participated in two out of the three.  Other than eating and taking it easy on her pink blanket, the American Dingo enjoyed 3 romps in her favorite woods, visiting the newly cleaned up abandoned camp each time, and roaming farther than she’d ever been before.

All in all, it had been a pleasant and much needed rest day.

9-6-23, 7:10 AM, 47ºF – A beautiful morning!  Lupe enjoyed a final romp in her favorite woods.  The Carolina Dog felt so wonderful that on the way back to the RAV4, the dastardly were-puppy attacked SPHP.

9-6-23, 2:38 PM, 64ºF – Having spent most of the morning fueling up and resupplying in Whitehorse, the “Welcome to Carmacks” sign along North Klondike Hwy No. 2 was the next stop.

Carmacks!  Isn’t that on the way to Dawson City, SPHP?  Are we going back to the Dempster Highway again?

Yes to your first question, and no to the last, Looper.  We’re crossing the Yukon River here, then heading E on Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4.

Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4, SPHP?  Funny, but I can’t seem to remember a thing about it!

That’s because we’ve never been on it before, Loopster.

Oh, awesome, SPHP!  All new adventures in all new territory coming up?

Precisely, Sweet Puppy.

The turn onto Hwy No. 4 came a mile after crossing the Yukon River.  Lupe was soon enjoying a terrific view of the fabled river from a high bluff overlooking it.

The highway followed the Yukon River E for a while, before eventually angling NE up the Little Salmon River valley.  The Little Salmon River was seldom, if ever, in view.  No big deal, but SPHP was disappointed when Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4 reached Little Salmon Lake, and there were no pullouts with views.  Trees lining the highway permitted only occasional glimpses of the huge lake.

Taking a chance on a side road named Snowcap View Road, it went by several private cabins before getting Lupe down to Little Salmon Lake.  Better yet, Snowcap Mountain (5,800 ft.) was actually in sight directly across the impressive lake.

At least, Lupe had gotten a chance to see Little Salmon Lake.  Returning to Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4, the drive continued.  Approaching the E end of Little Salmon Lake, SPHP slowed down, constantly peering up at the mountains to the NE.

What’s up?  Looking for anything in particular, SPHP?

Yes.  I’m looking for Truitt Peak (6,850 ft.), the next mountain on your list of possibilities, Looper.  Think I see it, too.

SPHP soon had Lupe spending quite a bit of time sniffing around various spots that might serve as a place to stash the RAV4 during an attempt on Truitt Peak.  She had some success, coming up with a couple of choices.

With a place to park, we can climb Truitt Peak tomorrow, SPHP!

Yeah, but I don’t know, Looper.  Looks like a real long bushwhack to get to the alpine.  Not sure my shin is ready yet to force our way through dense forest and bushes again.  Hurts when anything touches my big knot.

Wanting get another look at Truitt Peak, SPHP found one at the empty Drury Creek campground.  While SPHP pondered the view of Truitt Peak’s distant summit, Lupe explored Little Salmon Lake’s shoreline.

9-6-23, 7:05 PM, Drury Creek campground on Little Salmon Lake –

So, come to any enlightened conclusions yet, SPHP?

Yes, afraid so, Loop.  Hate to skip out on Truitt Peak when we’re in already in position for it, but due to my wounded shin, we’re going to.

Too bad, SPHP, but I understand.  Where to, then?

Faro.  I suspect there’s a trail at least partway to Mount Mye (6,763 ft.).

Faro was still close to an hour’s drive E.  On this gorgeous evening, the slanting rays of the sinking sun highlighted all the fall colors.  Faro was 10 km N of Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4 along Mitchell Road, and after making the L turn, this short drive was even more spectacular.  Mitchell Road wound downhill, eventually bottoming out at a beautiful bridge over the Pelly River.

9-6-23, 8:09 PM – There’s an access road going down to the river on the L, SPHP!  Please take it.  We gotta see this!

The American Dingo was so right!  The Pelly River bridge was certainly worth a stop.  After admiring the scenic river from the S bank, Lupe and SPHP piled back into the RAV4.  Driving across the red and light green bridge, Mitchell Road wound uphill a couple more km to Faro.

At Faro, Mitchell Road reached an intersection.  A turn R on Campbell Street led into the village of Faro itself.  Going straight, Mitchell Road continued uphill, now as the Faro Mine Access Road.

SPHP drove right on by Faro.

We’re going to the mine, SPHP?

Nope.  I believe this road is part of the W half of a loop that will get us to Vangorda Creek, Looper.  On the topo map, it looks like there’s some kind of a trail a little E of the creek that heads up to the alpine S of Mount Mye.  Let’s see if we can find it before it gets dark.

Passing a place called “Fingers” on the L after a few km, the road, which was now a very wide gravel road in good condition, climbed steeply NE for roughly 10 km before coming to a fork where there was an electric power substation.  SPHP had been looking for a turn to the R, but upon making it, immediately became concerned.  Signs warned that this was a restricted area, and said to stop by the guardhouse.

Well, Dingo feathers!  We were doing so well, too, Loop.  Vangorda Creek is only another 6 km.

Going SE on this new road despite the signs, the guardhouse appeared on the L 3 km in.  It was dusk by now, and the guardhouse was dark.  A huge fence with a formidable closed gate blocked the road.

Figures.  We’ve struck out going this way, Loopster.

There was another turn to the R a few hundred feet back, SPHP.  I saw a bunch of pickup trucks over by some buildings.

Hmm.  Might as well try it, Loop.  Worst they can do is throw us out.

The buildings proved to be some kind of a work camp.  Although it was already almost dark, a few people were milling around outside.  No one knew anything at all about Mount Mye.  What they did know was that this region was part of the former Faro mining operation.  Most of the territory around here was restricted access.

Back to Truitt Peak, SPHP?

Possibly.  Not yet, though, Loopster.  Tomorrow we’ll check out the E side of the loop.  Maybe we can still get to Vangorda Creek that way?

Discouraged, SPHP drove back down the mountain, deciding to turn in at the Fingers place before getting all the way to Faro.  Fingers turned out to be a wildlife viewing and nature interpretive site.  Using the flashlight to examine a posted map of the area, it contained excellent news.

9-7-23, 9:03 AM, 46ºF, Fingers Interpretive Site –

Been barking at squirrels, Loopster?

It’s a great way to start the day, SPHP.  I like this place!  Ready to go, yet?

Almost, Loop.  Let’s have a look at the view, then get a photo of that map.

Alright, got it, Loopster.  No. 5 on this map is the trail to Mount Mye.  It’s right where I thought it would be, E of Vangorda Creek.  Must be access to it from the E side of the loop!

Terrific, SPHP!  Let’s go find the trailhead.

That was the plan until SPHP drove into Faro.

Hey, there’s a visitor centre, Looper.  Let’s find out what they can tell us.

A note on the door said that the Campbell Region Interpretive Centre didn’t open until 10:00 AM.

Hmm.  Not that long from now, Loop.  Let’s wait.

After a short driving tour of Faro, the interpretive centre was open.

I’ll be back soon, Loopster.

It was too bad they didn’t allow Dingoes.  There was some fine sniffing to be done in the interpretive centre for a keen nose.

9-7-23, 10:30 AM, Campbell Region Interpretive Centre –

Sure took your sweet time about it, SPHP.  Learn anything?

Yeah.  Glad we stopped in, Looper.  Talked to a lady named Sabine.  First thing she told me was that due to a bridge that washed out, it’s no longer possible to drive to the Mount Mye trailhead near Vangorda Creek.  She had no idea how far it was to the trailhead from the bridge.

Oh, that’s bad, SPHP!

Yup, a real downer, Loop.  However, Sabine also said that it’s possible to get to Mount Mye from the Moose Trail, which starts 16 km up the Faro Mine Access Road.  Instead of turning R at the fork, we go L, looking for a moose sign.  Sabine provided me with a set of written instructions on how to find the trail, and navigate the first part of it, which is evidently a bit confusing.

Oh, that’s good, SPHP!

Yes, except that the instructions seem mighty vague, too, Looper.  When I asked questions, Sabine couldn’t clarify anything.  She’s never been on the Moose Trail herself.  All she could really tell me was to look for a moose sign along the R side of the road.  The directions, which I find confusing enough, have a cryptic message scribbled on them saying “Moose sign 50 m back.”  50 meters back from where?  Sabine had no more clue than I did.

Not so hot, SPHP, but how hard can it be to spot a moose sign?

Who knows, Loopster?  In any case, Sabine also gave me vague directions on how to find the trailhead for both Rose Mountain (6,513 ft.) and Faro Mountain (5,467 ft.), too.  They are out W past the Faro Mine.  Supposed to rain this afternoon, so maybe we can at least find the trailheads today?

Rain wouldn’t be surprising, SPHP.  It’s awfully cloudy.

Oh, and by the way, Sabine gave me 2 little Milk-Bones for you.

Now you’re talking, SPHP!  That was nice of her.

Intent upon finding the Moose Trail, SPHP drove back up the Faro Mine Access Road while Lupe munched on the Milk-Bones.  This time, SPHP took the L branch of the road when it forked, then began slowing down after a couple more km, the better to watch for a moose sign on the R.

Nothing!  SPHP drove all the way to the Faro Mine main gate without seeing a moose sign.

Now what, SPHP?

Seems strange that we didn’t see the Moose Trail, Looper.  I was driving super slow.  The Rose and Faro Mountain trailhead is supposed to be at the end of a side road 3 miles W of here.  Let’s see if we can find that before making another Moose Trail pass.

A side road did leave the Faro Mine Access Road heading W, just before reaching the Faro Mine main gate.  Taking it, 2 live moose, a mama and calf, soon crossed right in front of the RAV4.

What luck!  No doubt they’re on the Moose Trail, SPHP!

Yes, but not the Moose Trail we’re looking for, Loopster.

The side road ended after 2+ miles.  A deserted gravel yard was on the R, and another road headed into the trees on the L.  It was blocked by a red and black trailer.  An ATV, a bigger white trailer, and a small table with camp chairs were all nearby.  No signs about any trails were evident, but Rose Mountain (6,513 ft.) was in sight.

No one was around.  The whole setup seemed odd.  Exploring the gravel road beyond the red and black trailer, within 200 feet it turned to grass as it headed S through a region full of bushes.  Trotting S along this jeep trail, for it was no more than that, Lupe crossed most of the valley before it suddenly ended at Rose Creek, which was big enough to be a river.

Hmm.  Nothing seems much like the way Sabine described it, Loopster.  Might as well head back.

Back at the RAV4, SPHP had just started the engine, and was about to drive off, when a pickup truck with a man and woman in it pulled up.  The woman said that they were moose hunters, and that this was their camp.  They had only left temporarily on some errand.

The moose hunters cheered up considerably when SPHP explained that Lupe was not here to hunt moose, but merely looking for the Moose Trail, and/or the trailhead for Rose and Faro Mountains.  They advised heading back toward Faro as far as an electric power substation.  Look for the Moose Trail there!

9-7-23, 2:03 PM – The substation was easy to find.  It was at same the fork in the road where SPHP had turned R on the way to the guardhouse and locked gate last night.  Sure enough, 150 feet beyond this substation, a wood post bearing a tiny moose sign and an arrow pointing L stood at the start of an ATV trail angling off into the bushes.

We’re in business!  Let’s check it out, SPHP!

Eager to escape the RAV4 for a while, the American Dingo explored the first 1.4 miles of the Moose Trail, at which point the ATV route entered a giant mudhole, which seemed an excellent spot to turn around.  It was starting to rain, anyway.

Despite this reconnaisance mission, SPHP remained mystified.

Huh.  I don’t get it, Loop.  We saw the teeny weeny Moose Trail sign, and this route did cross the mine haul road, but nothing else at all matches up with the directions Sabine gave me.

How many Moose Trails can there be around Faro, SPHP?

I’m starting to wonder that myself, Loopster.

9-8-23, 10:48 AM, 47ºF – Right or wrong, and it did seem like it had to be right, since there actually was that Moose Trail sign, and the ATV route did head in the general direction of Mount Mye, Lupe was back.

Alrighty, Loopster!  Pack’s ready.  Think we’re all set.

Did you remember to bring the tiny house, SPHP?

I did.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

The Moose Trail began perfectly flat, running E along a corridor between tall bushes and a few trees.  This easy stretch didn’t last long.  The trail soon curved L up a steep, rocky slope.  After a quick climb, the ATV route nearly flattened out shortly before reaching more Moose Trail signs on a post next to the Faro Mine haul road mentioned in Sabine’s directions.

A few tens of feet after crossing the haul road, another Moose Trail sign was leaning over among the bushes on the R at the top of a skinny pole.  This sign was different from the others, and proved to be the last official indication that the Carolina Dog was going the right way.

Beyond the haul road, the Moose Trail was more like an old jeep trail than an ATV route.  The road climbed gradually as Lupe followed it NE.  Much of the road was in great shape, but the mud puddle the American Dingo had made it to yesterday wasn’t the first one she’d encountered.

These first mud puddles were generally easy enough to go around.  The Moose Trail improved again.  After passing through a forested area, the road climbed onto a small ridge where a big stream was visible off to the L (W).  Lupe briefly left the road to get a better look.

9-8-23, 11:53 AM, along the Moose Trail – Other than the occasional mud puddle and mucky stretch exceptions, the road was firm and dry nearly the entire way back to the giant mud puddle reached yesterday.

What came next wasn’t much fun.  From here on, the Moose Trail was mostly a sea of standing water and thick black mud, really more of a Moose Bog than a trail.  A black-pawed Dingo usually traipsed right on through the mess without giving it a second thought, but SPHP made a valiant attempt to avoid getting boots and socks full of muck.

Staying always toward the R (E) side, which was a bit higher than the road, SPHP spent a vast majority of the time completely off the wretched Moose Trail, thrashing through dense, head-high bushes.  Off-road, the ground was covered with thick, green moss that had absorbed water like a sponge.  Standing water was often here, too, draining from this soggy region in a thousand tiny streams down onto the “road”.

Passing one ghastly spot after another, SPHP kept trying to return to the Moose Trail, but it was no use.  Virtually the entire trail was nothing but muck and water.  Rare semi-dry spots ended almost instantly, another long stretch of misery ahead.

Criminitly, Loopster!  I see now why they call it the Moose Trail.  Only a genuine moose would enjoy a slog through a swamp like this!

Maybe you should have asked Sabine for directions to the Human Trail to Mount Mye, SPHP?

Ahh, yes!  The Human Trail to Mount Mye!  Wish I’d had the presence of mind to ask for that instead, Loop, although one would think that Sabine would notice that I don’t really much resemble a moose, do I?

Well, now that you happen to mention it, SPHP, from the right angle, and in the right light, you …

Oh, no you don’t, Looper!  Don’t even go there!

The horrid, no good, excruciatingly slow bushwhack went on and on.  Perseverance would eventually pay off, though.  The Moose Trail was clearly heading for the lower W slopes of Peak 6400, where steeper ground would almost certainly put an end to the bog slog.

9-8-23, 1:01 PM, Moose Trail – Over an hour had gone by during SPHP’s soggy, 0.33 mile bushwhack, but Lupe was finally back on firm ground.  Ahead, the Moose Trail was in vastly improved shape again as it wound up onto Peak 6400’s lower W slopes.  SPHP’s boots squeaked as water squished out with every step during a steep trudge higher.

At the Moose Trail’s initial high point on the slope, SPHP paused for a breather.  A steep, 25 foot deep dip was ahead, beyond which the trail vanished into another forest.

Enough already!  Aren’t you about done griping about the bushwhack yet, SPHP?  We’re in the Yukon!  Mount Mye is a wilderness adventure!  What did you expect?  You should have just stuck with the Moose Trail like I did, instead of battling the bushes.  We would have been through the Moose Bog a lot faster.  Your boots are completely water-logged, anyway.  What good did all that ridiculous bushwhacking do you?

My paws may be soaking wet, Loop, but at least my boots aren’t full of muck.

You could have washed out the muck at the first decent stream we come to, SPHP.

Eh.  Maybe so, Loopster.  Over and done with now.  I’ll shut up about it.

Beyond the steep 25 foot dip, the Moose Trail climbed again, eventually leveling out 250 feet higher than where the Moose Bog ended.  After a pleasant flat stretch, Lake 4663 came into view as the jeep trail began a gradual descent.

Is the Moose Trail going to take us to that lake, SPHP?  Looks like it will!

Who knows, Loopster?  I bet you’re right, though.  We’ll soon come to a stream that we’ll have to ford, if you want to visit the lake.  However, we don’t need to go that way, if you’d rather not.  Now that we’re past the W end of Peak 6400, we should really be turning E up the big valley N of it.

Let’s visit the lake, SPHP.  We’re here now, and it isn’t that far, so why not?

The American Dingo soon had her answer.  As the road descended into a region of tall yellow bushes, the Moose Trail once again deteriorated into a sea of mud.  The stream couldn’t have been much farther, but wasn’t in sight yet when SPHP balked.

Sorry, Loop, but I’ve about had it with the Moose Trail.  Lake 4663 isn’t happening.  Let’s stick with our main objective and head for Mount Mye.

Going back up the Moose Trail far enough to reach a mix of tundra and smaller bushes, the Carolina Dog finally abandoned the trail, heading SE up the broad valley N of Peak 6400.

The entire valley appeared be full of yellow bushes.  Staying fairly high along Peak 6400’s lower slopes in order to remain among smaller ones seemed best.  Patches of tundra were even better, but relatively rare.

Gaining 150 feet elevation, Lupe briefly enjoyed her best view yet of the S end of Lake 4663.  However, as the Carolina Dog proceeded farther up the valley, the lake soon disappeared entirely behind Peak 6500.

Lupe eventually needed to cross the stream in the center of the valley.  Angling gradually toward it, the yellow bushes grew in size.  Waist high, chest high, head high, and more on SPHP.  Progress became difficult and slow through the dense thicket during a constant search for relatively open lanes where spurts forward were possible.

However, none of this endless jungle was anywhere close to as bad as the Moose Bog had been.  When Lupe reached the stream in the middle of the valley, it banks were firm, not marshy.  Happily, this stream was small enough to be an easy rock hop.

Once on the N bank, the bushes soon began diminishing in size as Lupe continued up the valley.  More open lanes appeared, even some small clearings.  Progress improved, and would have improved even more, if not for a certain degree of weariness setting in.

The bush ordeal effectively culminated with a trudge up to the top of a bush-free, tundra-covered rise.  From here, 2 small tarns were now in sight, nestled in a large flat region along the base of Peak 6400.  Lupe was already well above them.

9-8-23, 3:56 PM – Tired, Lupe plunked herself down on the soft tundra.

This is a good, scenic spot, SPHP!  Can we take a break?

Yeah, why not?  It’s not that much farther to Pass 5550, Looper.  1.5 km.  It’s got to be right around this next bend.

SPHP sat down, and began absent-mindedly examining the tundra.  The tundra was always so beautiful, so intricate, delicate, yet tough.

Pass 5550, is that where we’re staying tonight, SPHP?

That’s the plan, if it isn’t too rocky, Loop, and I can still manage to drag myself up there.

20 minutes shot by.  Ought to be enough to restore some energy.  If Loopster didn’t get going again soon, the way SPHP was feeling, she would be spending the night right here.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Pass 5550 was still nearly 400 feet higher.  More bushes were along the way, including some tall ones, but open lanes almost always made it easy to avoid them.  Overall, the bushes rapidly shrank in size as Lupe gained elevation.  The American Dingo crossed several rock slides along the way, too, none of which presented any real difficulty.

9-8-23, 5:04 PM – Overcast, the sky was gray, just as it had been all day, when Lupe finally reached Pass 5550, actually coming in a bit higher than the low point.  For the first time, the Carolina Dog could now see 2 mountains E of the pass.  A large, steep-sided dome was closest, only a few km NE.  The other peak, due E, was farther away, and more like a plateau tilted skyward.  It was hard to tell which was highest.

Are either of those mountains Mount Mye (6,763 ft.), SPHP?

Yes.  Not sure which one, though, Loopster.  Hang on, let me check the map … it’s the one on the L.

The big dome is Mount Mye, SPHP?

Uh-huh.  That’s it, Loop!  The other mountain must be Peak 6519.

Although it had been calm all day, a cold, gusty 10 mph E breeze sprang up almost as soon as Lupe reached Pass 5550.  Anxious to get into the tiny house ASAP, the American Dingo barked impatiently, while SPHP searched for a sufficiently soft spot to place it, then had a bit of a time getting it pitched in the wind.

Once the tiny house was up, and her red sleeping bag spread out, Lupe couldn’t wait to get inside and lie down.  She clearly had no intention of leaving it again this evening.  SPHP was forced to take a photo of Mount Mye beyond the tiny house without her.

9-8-23, 6:10 PM, Pass 5550 – SPHP crawled into the tiny house.  Time for dinner!  Beef jerky for dessert.  Lupe inhaled her share, then eyes heavy, put her head down.  A moment later she was lost in Dingo Dreamland.  The sun now chose to put in its only appearance of the day.  For 15 or 20 minutes, the tiny house glowed bright.

And then the light was gone again.  Tired, but restless, SPHP left the tiny house, and saw only a distant red glow in the W.  The E wind had been growing stronger, and now came in powerful gusts between periods of calm.  Dusk was coming on, and a light mist began to fall.

Returning to the tiny house, SPHP pulled part of the red sleeping bag over the snoozing Carolina Dog, then put on the Yukon fur trapper’s cap.  Toasty!  It was raining harder now.  Snuggling into the blue sleeping bag, SPHP listened to wind and rain, wondering if it was going to snow?

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Mount Mye, Anvil Range, Yukon Territory, Canada – Base Camp to the Summit! (8-9-23)

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