Muncho Lake Provincial Park – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Mount Peterson, Muskwa Ranges Muncho Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (9-10-22)

Part 2 of Day 43 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9:48 AM, 54ºF, Alaska Highway, 7.5 km S of Muncho Lake –

Alrighty! Think we’re about ready, Loopster. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Which side of the gash do you want to go up, SPHP?

Let’s try the N side, Looper.

Trotting NW across the Alaska Highway, Lupe came to a primitive road that started up Mount Peterson’s E slope. Spotting an unusual cairn on a bank just N of this road, the Carolina Dog went over to investigate. The cairn had a human shape, complete with a wooden walking stick.

About to set out for **Mount Peterson** (L). Photo looks NW.

The “**gash**” (L of Center) from the primitive road. Photo looks SW.

**Alaska Highway** from the **human cairn**. Photo looks SE.

Looks just like you, SPHP!

Yes, I see the resemblance, Looper. We ought to make a Dingo cairn.

A noble thought, but onward, SPHP! Mount Peterson (7,021 ft.) is way too big for us to be dilly-dallying.

A rather rocky slope led up toward the forest, which wasn’t far off. How dense this forest was would make an enormous difference on what the American Dingo’s chances of success were on this ascent. Happily, initial results were encouraging. The forest was fairly open.

Approaching the forest. The **gash** (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

The slope soon steepened, and the trees became more tightly packed. Thick moss and spongy tundra carpeted the forest floor. Progress was still fairly decent, although SPHP had to wander in search of the best routes higher. The trees weren’t all that big, and there were countless small branches to push through.

As the day warmed up, gnats began to appear. Or at least, they initially looked like gnats. On closer examination, they were more like tiny flies with huge bulging eyes. Before long, clouds of these annoying bugs were swarming all around both Lupe and SPHP. Unlike gnats, these tiny flies seemed to bite, too.

These gnats are terrible, SPHP!

Yeah, I hate them. Hang on a minute, Loopster. Let me check the pack. Dang! Been so long since we’ve had a bug problem, that I didn’t bring any Deet. Guess we’re just going to have to put up with them.

Increasingly plagued by the odious bugs, Lupe gained nearly 400 feet climbing quite a steep slope. Moving helped some, but there was no breeze, and between the forest and steepness of the slope, it was hard to move quickly. Had to keep going, though! Any pause simply ensured an even worse situation.

The gnats were attacking Lupe’s eyes, and SPHP’s ears and neck. Half a dozen died with each swat, without achieving the slightest effect on their endless numbers.

What can we do, SPHP? They’re eating us alive!

Keep going, Looper! Our only hope is getting above treeline. Might find relief there.

Lupe reached a little ridge with a 20 foot dip beyond it. The top of this ridge was level and fairly open.

Let’s start angling S here, Loopster. Can’t be too far to the gash. Let’s try to get to it. Maybe we can see what things look like from there?

Crossing the dip before turning S, Lupe soon made it to the N rim of the gash, which was actually a deep, steep-sided, V-shaped ravine. The view was limited where Lupe first reached it at about 4,300 feet, but she made a useful discovery. A path ran along the edge.

Near the N edge of the gash. Photo looks S.

No telling how much lower this apparently seldom-used path started, but it helped SPHP pick up the pace. Happily, the slope was no longer quite as steep, which didn’t hurt either, and even better, the ghastly gnats weren’t as bad near the edge. Climbing faster now, Lupe made it to a spot where Mount Peterson’s summit was in view.

**Mount Peterson’s summit** (L of Center). Photo looks SW.

Ugh! It’s a long way to treeline, SPHP!

Yeah, I know, Looper. Expected that. Our situation is even worse than I thought, though. Don’t know what possessed me to tell you to come up N of the gash like this. We’re on the wrong side! We need to get to that ridge over on the S side. That’s our intended route to the summit.

Simply fabulous! How are we supposed to do that, SPHP?

Keep a-going, Loop! Believe we can cross over higher up.

The old game trail, or whatever it was, continued so close to the edge of the gash that portions of the trail had collapsed into the ravine, forcing brief, unpleasant forays into the totally gnat-infested forest. In places, the path actually ran slightly below the edge, inside the gash. Lupe was quite daring, sticking with the trail across slopes so steep that SPHP feared for her safety, and didn’t dare follow.

Making progress! **Mount Peterson summit** (L of Center), **intended route** (L). Photo looks SW.

After gaining several hundred feet of elevation along the path, it veered deeper into the gash traversing a very steep, crumbly slope. SPHP was forced into stunted pines so thick that progress nearly ground to a halt. Returning to the edge of the gash whenever possible, Lupe sometimes came to open territory, but all the forested stretches were an absolute gnatmare, as merciless swarms engulfed both Lupe and SPHP.

On some beautiful open ground. Photo looks SSW.

Improvement didn’t come until Lupe finally reached treeline at about 4,900 feet. Continuing another 200 feet higher, she made it to a jumble of white boulders at the base of Mount Peterson’s giant N ridge. She’d now gained nearly 2,000 feet of elevation. Thankfully, far fewer gnats were here, permitting a much needed rest break.

As SPHP anticipated, there was more good news! The American Dingo was now above the deeply eroded gash. All she needed to do was cross a much more gently sloping drainage to reach a broad, rounded region of low tundra leading to the ridge she needed to climb.

Among the boulders at the base of **Mount Peterson’s N ridge** (R). Photo looks SSW.

Crossing a scree slope on the way to this enticing alpine area, Lupe came to a small stream. She enjoyed a drink before plunking herself down in the cold water for a few minutes.

The **upper drainage region** above the deeply eroded gash. Photo looks S.

Starting up the next slope beyond the stream, SPHP’s right ear and side of the neck were burning and swollen with gnat bites. Stopping to take a Benadryl, SPHP saw blood on Lupe’s abdomen. Initially thinking she’d been injured somehow, SPHP was horrified to find the American Dingo’s entire abdomen a bright red patchwork of hundreds of gnat bites.

Oh, Loopster! You poor thing! You must feel terrible! Nothing I can do to ease your pain, either. I’m so sorry that I didn’t bring any insect repellent!

Mount Peterson hasn’t been much fun so far, SPHP. At least, the icy water in the little stream felt good.

Despite her misery, the Carolina Dog was a real trooper. Continuing to climb, the tundra on the broad slope she was on became more and more beautiful. Back to the N, Muncho Lake was now in sight.

On the tundra slope, destined for the ridge on the L. Photo looks SSW.

A little higher on the beautiful tundra. Love the red! Photo looks SSW.

The ghastly gnats soon vanished completely on this firm, open terrain. Suddenly, Mount Peterson wasn’t such an ordeal. Gorgeous panoramas of silver-topped mountains steadily improved, and so did the mood. The rounded region narrowed as Lupe approached the ridge leading to the summit. A massive chunk of limestone sat alone on the tundra. Beyond it, Lupe started coming to bands of rock, small escarpments of crumbling limestone easily scrambled, or avoided.

By the giant chunk of limestone. Photo looks SSE.

Near the first rock bands. Photo looks SE.

It was a long trudge. Higher ground kept appearing ahead, but the big ridge never got very narrow. Exploring the limestone escarpments was easy and fun. Loopster was having a blast!

Enjoying a little light scrambling among the rocks. Photo looks S.

*Sure beats the forest! This is awesome, SPHP!* Photo looks S.

Glancing over at **Mount Peterson’s enormous N ridge**. Photo looks NW.

Silvery mountains across the **Muncho Creek valley**. **Peak 7687** (Center). **Alaska Highway** below. Photo looks ESE.

Despite SPHP’s frequent pauses to gasp for air, Lupe was making great progress, clearly gaining on Mount Peterson’s summit. The rate of climb diminished by the time a cairn appeared ahead.

Gaining on the **summit** (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

Approaching the **cairn** (L of Center). Photo looks S.

2:12 PM – The 4 foot high cairn sat at a minor high point where the ridge Lupe had been following S turned W toward Mount Peterson’s summit. A long stick jutted another 4 feet skyward. Even if the American Dingo didn’t go any farther, this was quite an amazing viewpoint itself.

**Muncho Lake** (Center) from the cairn. Photo looks N.

**Muncho Lake** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks N.

This is a glorious spot. How about taking a short break here, Looper?

All for it, SPHP!

A roomy patch of tundra SSW of the cairn provided a comfy spot to sit. Lupe had a tremendous view of a deep valley to the S from here, where a small tarn glittered at the upper end of a forested region.

The **valley S of HP6171**. Photo looks SSW.

That pond looks lovely, but I’m glad we’re not down there, SPHP! Bet there are a zillion gnats. How high are we here, anyway? Did you remember to start a GPS track when we left the RAV4?

I did! Says we’re at 6,171 feet. According to that, we’ve gained a little over 3,000 feet so far, Loopster. Less than 1,000 to go!

SPHP tried to sound optimistic, but gazing W along the ridge leading to Mount Peterson’s summit, whether Lupe would ever get there, or not, seemed questionable. Most of the ridge was cake, but the upper end looked dangerously steep.

A little worrisome, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yeah. I’m not eager for another Table Mountain experience, Loop. You only get so many of those before something really bad happens. That long, steep slope coming up from this valley we’re seeing to the S actually looks like a better route than where we’re at, but I don’t know if we can intersect it from here.

Let’s find out, SPHP! C’mon!

Heading W from HP6171, the ridge dipped a bit. A faint path went this way, which was an encouraging sign. Lupe soon came to another minor high point with a better view of the region she would have to traverse to get over to that other slope.

Following the use trail from **HP6171** toward the **summit** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Pausing for a glance N. **Mount Peterson’s N ridge** (L), **Muncho Lake** (R).

Decision time! Head straight for **Mount Peterson’s summit**, or make the traverse SW to the slope on the L? Photo looks W.

Looking ENE back along the ridge toward **HP6171** (R). **Muncho Lake** (far L).

I think we can get over there, Looper. Let’s try it!

You’re nuts, SPHP!

Abandoning the ridgeline, SPHP started the traverse over to the other slope. Lupe did not follow, remaining up on the ridge.

A few minutes of tedious rock-hopping on the steep slope was enough. The Carolina Dog was right! This traverse was going to take a month of Sundays, and it wasn’t even completely certain that it wouldn’t get too difficult to manage at some point. Abandoning the whole notion, SPHP rejoined Lupe on the ridge.

Welcome back, SPHP!

Thank you, Looper. Guess you’re right. Either this works, or we’re never going to get there.

Continuing W, Lupe was soon past the last of the easy stretch. The rate of climb now steadily steepened. Nothing but rock the rest of the way!

The first part of the steeper climb really wasn’t bad at all. Lupe gained a ton of elevation without any trouble at all, and the higher she got, the less daunting the rock bands ahead looked.

Not a bad scramble so far, although not very comfortable, either. Photo look W.

The crux of the matter came at around 6,750 feet. Staying along the S side of the ridge, the steep scramble on loose scree below outcroppings of bedrock got a little tricky. Rocks went clattering down the mountain, but not to an alarming extent. As always, the American Dingo had an easier time of it than SPHP did, but even SPHP managed to get past the worst of it.

Still 200+ feet to go, but it was now clear that Lupe was going to make it to the top of the ridge. What she might find there, and how hard it might be to get to the true summit, remained uncertain.

Loopster right up on the ridgeline. Photo looks N.

Lupe reached the upper end of the ridge at a wide gap in a spine of rock running N/S. Peering NW through the gap, the news was fantastic! The true summit was only 150 feet away, easily attainable. Heading N along the W side of the spine, the Carolina Dog reached an 8 foot wide ramp of scree that got her to a cairn at the top.

Nearly there! **True summit** (Center). Photo looks NW.

**True summit** (L), **Mount Peterson’s N ridge** (R). Photo looks NNW.

4:02 PM, 62ºF – Success! Lupe stood next to the cairn at the true summit of Mount Peterson (7,021 ft.). It was an airy perch. Not a lot of room up here! Beyond the American Dingo, a relatively flat, narrow summit ridge extended another 70 feet NNW. Beyond that, the ridge sank away to a lower level where it snaked a long way off to the N.

Next to the **summit cairn**. Photo looks NW.

Congratulations, Looper! Magnificent job, despite the hideous gnatmare! May I shake your paw?

You may, SPHP! And I believe you brought 2 chocolate coconut bars?

I most certainly did, and we’ve earned both!

SPHP sat just below the cairn facing SE. With no comfy spots available for Lupe on the mountain, she curled up on SPHP’s lap, instead. Both chocolate coconut bars were quickly and eagerly dispatched.

The views were stupendous! Directly ahead was the gap Lupe had come through to get here. Beyond it, the Alaska Highway was visible nearly 4,000 feet lower in a heavily forested valley. Silvery peaks extended to the horizon in all directions. Most topped out at elevations a little lower than Mount Peterson, although higher peaks were in sight, too.

**Gap in the rocky spine of the S ridge** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

Of course, the most eye-catching view was of Muncho Lake and Mount Peterson’s long N ridge.

**Muncho Lake** (Center), **Mount Peterson’s N ridge** (L). Photo looks N.

I like how the N ridge kind of snakes along like it does, SPHP. Makes the whole scene a little more dramatic.

Yup. Totally agree, Loop. Good thing we didn’t try to come here that way, though. Way too long and skinny. Would never have made it.

Ragged and narrow, Mount Peterson’s SW ridge wouldn’t have been a feasible route up either, not that SPHP had ever even considered it.

**Mount Peterson’s SW ridge** (foreground). Photo looks S.

Another angle. **SW ridge** (L & Center). Photo looks SW.

With so little room to move around, most of the time Lupe was perfectly happy enjoying the views from SPHP’s lap. Only a few of the countless peaks in sight were significantly higher than Mount Peterson. Of these, Nonda Peak (7,822 ft.), a pyramid shaped spire to the NE, was closest. Peak 7562 earned an honorable mention.

Peak 7316 was perhaps the most interesting. Within reasonable striking distance of the Alaska Highway, its S slope looked like a relatively easy scramble. Perhaps a candidate for a future Lupe adventure?

**Nonda Peak** (L), **Peak 7316** (L of Center), **Peak 7562** (R of Center). The sunlit ridge in the foreground was Lupe’s ascent route. Photo looks NE.

**Nonda Peak** (Center). Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Peak 7316** (L), **Peak 7562** (Center), **Peak 7434** (far R). Photo looks ENE.

The big peak that stood out the most was a massive mountain far to the SSE beyond Mount Scott (8,000 ft.). This may have been Peak 8800. Several even more distant peaks to the SE looked impressive, too. A snowfield on Yedhe Mountain (8,914 ft.) helped to identify it.

**Mount Scott** (R of Center), **Peak 8800** (R). **Toad River valley** (foreground). Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.

**Peak 8800**(?) (R of Center) Photo looks SSE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Zoomed in on **Yedhe Mountain** (far R). Photo looks SE.

Peak 7100 was a mere 3 km due W, but since Mount Peterson’s SW ridge was so gnarly, Lupe couldn’t get there, which didn’t really matter since she wouldn’t have had time for it, anyway.

5:02 PM – An hour of glory high in the Muskwa Ranges had flown.

Hate to say it, but time’s up, Loopster! You ready?

I’m awfully comfortable right here, and Mount Peterson is an amazing perch, SPHP. It’s a perfect day, too!

I know it, but it’s a perfect day that’s almost shot. Going to be plenty late as it is before we get back to the RAV4.

Before departing, in accordance with longstanding tradition, Lupe stood proudly once more on Mount Peterson’s true summit.

Final moments at the **true summit**. Photo looks NW.

The descent began with Lupe leading the way down to the gap in the spine of the S ridge.

Heading down to the **gap** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

She was almost there when SPHP called a halt.

Hang on, Loop! I’ve been trying to remember to take a few summit shots with the new iPhone, and I forgot to do it.

We have to go back up, SPHP?

Yes, pretty please! This will only take a few minutes, Loopster. We’ll never get another chance, you know.

At least you remembered before we got halfway down the mountain, SPHP.

*Really? We have to go back up?* Photo looks SE.

Final, final moments on **Mount Peterson**. Photo looks NW.

As usual, SPHP was a super slow poke on the steep, rocky descent E of the gap, but did manage to get through it without incident. Took nearly an hour to get to the flat part of the ridge leading back to the big cairn with the pole at HP6171.

After that, even SPHP made great time. Already in shadow, the race was on to get as far as possible while it was still light out.

Heading down on a perfect evening! **Muncho Lake** (Center). Photo looks N.

This time, Lupe stayed on the S side of the gash. For quite a long way as dusk deepened, she was able to follow game trails very close to, or right along, the rim. After entering the forest, SPHP eventually led her a little way from the edge. Even with the flashlight, it was too dark to be on the brink of disaster.

Thankfully, all the gnasty gnats had gone to bed. The bushwhack was long and confusing enough as it was. The dense, black forest went on forever, and this route implausibly seemed considerably steeper than the N side of the gap had been. SPHP often resorted to clinging to trees, or sliding down treacherous slopes, while Lupe roamed in darkness.

Weary, every now and then, a short break was required. Kind of strange being here, yet a familiar feeling, too. Near exhaustion, alone together in a little circle of light, on an incredibly dark and remote mountainside.

At last, the ordeal was over. Lupe came to an enormous opening, an old moonlit gravel pit. Wandering easily across it, a road was found that soon led back to the Alaska Highway. Only a short, silent walk N on the empty road remained. What a fabulous, triumphant day! (11:48 PM)

**Mount Peterson**, Muskwa Ranges, **Muncho Lake Provincial Park**, British Columbia, Canada 9-10-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s GPS Track

Muncho Lake Provincial Park

Northern Rockies Lodge at Muncho Lake

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Liard River Hot Springs & Muncho Lake, British Columbia, Canada (9-8-22 to 9-10-22)

Days 41, 42 & 1st part of day 43 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9-8-22, 7:05 AM, 42ºF, Eldorado trailhead, Warm Bay Road –

Yesterday’s West Sentinel Mountain and Sentinel Mountain adventure had just about done SPHP in. Worst leg cramps ever last night. Better now, but a rest day was clearly in order. SPHP turned the key, firing up the RAV4, before driving slowly N back to Atlin. On her pink blanket, Lupe gobbled down a bowl of Taste of the Wild.

A brief stop in Atlin for a last look at Birch Mountain across the lake, and the drive N continued, now on Highway No. 7. Several miles N of the Yukon border, SPHP turned W (L) off the highway at the ridge with the scenic view of the N end of Atlin Lake and Mount Minto (6,913 ft.).

Oh, back at our favorite spot, SPHP! Want to go for a walk?

Sure! Think I can manage to amble along a bit here, Looper.

**Mount Minto** (Center) and the **N end of Atlin Lake** (L). Photo looks SSW.

The wind was out of the S, as Lupe trotted NW along a level dirt road near the edge of the ridge. SPHP hobbled after her, enjoying the fresh breeze and magnificent scenery.

On the way back, we can look for squirrels in the forest, Loop!

The American Dingo approved this message, and had a riot sniffing around in the forest, where spindly ground cover sported fall colors.

In the beautiful forest, looking for squirrels.

The rest of the day shot by right here, most of it spent in the RAV4. After a while, the sky clouded over. Rained off and on, eventually quit, but the sky remained dreary. Food, naps, and SPHP worked on the trip journal. By evening, sunshine appeared far to the SW. Lupe enjoyed another hour long romp in the forest. Through it all, the S wind blew.

9-9-22, the wee hours, 3.5 km N of Atlin Lake – Strange and disturbing dreams. SPHP woke to see a full moon shining through a thin layer of clouds W of Mount Minto, which wore a cap of cloud itself. Wrapped in a blanket on this cool, breezy night, Lupe was alert and watching.

The moon crept W at about Mount Minto’s height, brightening as it got into the clear, yet not a star was in sight. Nights were longer now, the possibilities for this Dingo Vacation starting to narrow. Hours drifted by as the moon stole away.

9-9-22, 8:34 AM, 53ºF, 3.5 km N of Atlin Lake – Blue skies to the W and SW, with only a thin layer of clouds above. Mount Minto’s cap was gone. Pleasantly warm, but whitecaps were visible on Atlin Lake even from here. The wind was 20-25 mph out of the S, with higher gusts.

Guess we’ve got our answer on what today’s going to be like, Loopster. Too windy to go climbing mountains. Any interest in a final romp in the forest before we head E?

The American Dingo was all for it! For more than half an hour, she had a great time in the woods, until she stepped on something sharp. Only a small spot of blood, but that put an end to the romp. Time to go.

9-9-22, 10:45 AM, 57ºF – The wind was out of SE, becoming a headwind by the time Lupe reached Teslin Lake. Waves rolled into shore, as the Carolina Dog enjoyed a sniff along the water’s edge.

**Dawson Peaks** (Center) from **Teslin Lake**. Photo looks SE.

As the long drive E along the Alaska Highway continued into afternoon, the wind died away.

9-9-22, 4:49 PM – SPHP made only a couple of stops, one at a rest area just W of the junction with Cassiar Highway No. 37 to let Lupe stretch her legs during a brief stroll in another forest. The second stop was for fuel and a few supplies in Watson Lake.

Lupe had left the Yukon behind, and was back in British Columbia, when SPHP finally let her out of the RAV4 again at a bluff overlooking rapids on the Liard River.

**Liard River** from a pullout along the Alaska Highway. Photo looks S.

I suppose you’ll be wanting to stop at the Liard River Hot Springs again, won’t you, SPHP?

But, of course! Wouldn’t want to miss out on that! So much fun, such a bargain, and I’ll sniff a lot better, too, after a nice long soak, Looper.

You are overdue, SPHP.

We’ll soon be there, Loop. You’ll have to wait in the RAV4, as usual.

That’s OK, SPHP, a hot pool doesn’t sound like fun to me. However, I’ve been hoping we’d see some wildlife along the Alaska Highway, and there hasn’t been any. Been a rather dull drive overall.

A second rest day does us both some good, Loopster. Enjoy it while you can! Big adventure in store tomorrow, if this weather holds. Meanwhile, don’t give up on the wildlife, we’ve often seen buffalo along this stretch of the Alaska Highway.

Sure enough, bison were soon providing plenty of Dingo excitement! Lupe’s enthusiasm wasn’t dimmed in the least by the fact that they paid no attention at all to the pipsqueak making all the racket in the RAV4.

Unperturbed bison along the Alaska Highway.

9-9-22, 6:06 PM – Liard River Hot Springs is an absolute must stop along the Alaska Highway, and a line of cars was waiting at the entrance. The RAV4 was 6th in line, which seemed no big deal, but for some reason, the line wasn’t moving at all. A man eventually came along and put up a “Campground Full” sign, at which point the line began to move.

The fee for a day pass was still an unbelievably cheap $5.00 CAN, and Dingoes were free! SPHP was surprised to see a new feature, a serious anti-wildlife electric fence protecting the campground, but everything else seemed to be pretty much the same as the last time Lupe had been here 3 years ago.

At the **Liard River Hot Springs** entrance.

While Lupe waited in the RAV4, SPHP went through a gate in the electric fence, and took the long boardwalk across a warm water swamp. The boardwalk continued beyond the swamp into the boreal forest where the change house and hot springs were hidden in a completely natural and unique outdoor setting.

Start of the boardwalk leading to the hot springs.

The warm water swamp reportedly frequented by moose and other wildlife.

Arriving at the change house less than 10 minutes from the start.

Posted information near the change house.

The hot springs were busy, but not overly crowded. SPHP chatted with some of the particularly friendly Canadians. The water was only 3 or 4 feet deep with a pebble bottom, which was deep enough to swim or float a bit. An underwater bench provided a place to sit other than the decks by the change house.

You could choose your preferred water temperature by staying either close to where the springs flowed into the pool where the water was hottest, or farther downstream where the water cooled off. The water was coldest below a small concrete dam. The bottom was mucky in this lower section which drained into the channel leading to the swamp.

After weeks spent climbing mountains with Lupe, soaking in the warm mineral water was wonderful! SPHP lingered for nearly 2 hours before reluctantly returning to the RAV4.

How was it, SPHP?

Marvelous! Look at me! I’m a new person, clean clothes and everything!

You’ve changed your scent for the better, too, SPHP. Almost like you’re in disguise!

9-10-22, 7:59 AM, 55ºF – Yesterday had been the warmest, sunniest day in weeks. Hit 71ºF at one point during the drive to Liard River Hot Springs, and it was surprisingly warm again this morning. Lupe was bright-eyed and alert as SPHP started the drive into the Muskwa Ranges. Soon the Carolina Dog was trembling with excitement, barking furiously at bison along both sides of the highway. A great start to any day!

The long climb into the mountains continued after entering Muncho Lake Provincial Park, but eventually leveled out. SPHP stopped at the first pullout with a view of Muncho Lake. Beyond the far end of the lake loomed a mountain that had been on Lupe’s list of possibilities for years.

**Mount Peterson** (Center) from the N end of **Muncho Lake**. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

Hmm. Used to be a sign here identifying that awesome peak as Mount Peterson, Loop, but it’s gone now.

Are we going to climb Mount Peterson, SPHP?

Yup, that’s the plan, Loopster, if we can manage to pull it off. No trails, though, so a lot depends on whether we can bushwhack our way above treeline, or not.

The Northern Rockies Lodge is the premier visitor recreation facility in the Muncho Lake region. Naturally, the American Dingo dropped by for a look around. The lodge’s massive log structure was impressive, and in excellent condition. A stroll down to the lake shore to led to the lodge’s float planes, and another view of Mount Peterson (7,021 ft.).

The yellow float plane that Lupe had seen here before was gone, but the white one was still here.

The **Northern Rockies Lodge** at **Muncho Lake** is right along the Alaska Highway.

The white **Liard Air float plane** used in various adventure tours.

**Mount Peterson** (Center) from the Northern Rockies Lodge. Photo looks S.

Lupe waited in the RAV4 for a few minutes while SPHP checked out the lodge. The dining room was closed, but particularly impressive with its many big windows and 3 story vaulted ceiling.

The snazzy **Northern Rockies Lodge dining room**.

Continuing S, the Alaska Highway ran right along the E side of Muncho Lake. Several pullouts provided great views of the lake, and plenty of opportunities to gaze upon Mount Peterson as Lupe got closer to it.

**Muncho Lake** from the Alaska Highway. Photo looks N.

Near the S end of Muncho Lake, the mountains were farther E. Lupe was excited to see a herd of caribou out enjoying the morning air on a gravelly plain. Several caribou were tantalizingly near the highway.

Beyond a campground at the S end of Muncho Lake, the Alaska Highway began climbing again. 7 km farther, a huge gash on the lower slopes of Mount Peterson extended right down to the road.

The highway had almost leveled out again here, and a big pullout was on the L. SPHP parked the RAV4 there, and Lupe leapt out.

9-10-22, 9:48 AM, 54ºF, Alaska Highway pullout 7.5 km S of Muncho Lake –

Think this is the spot we should try it from, Loopster! Clear, calm, and comfortably warm. Couldn’t be better! After all these years of dreaming about Mount Peterson, probably the best shot at it we’ll ever get.

Let’s do it, then, SPHP! Remember to bring a chocolate coconut bar, though!

Better yet, Loop, I’ll bring two!

**Liard River Hot Springs**, British Columbia, Canada 9-9-22

**Mount Peterson** from **Muncho Lake**, British Columbia, Canada 9-10-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada (8-6-17)

Day 7 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

(5:20 AM, Summit Lake, Stone Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia) Sometime during the night, the evening’s steady rain quit. Now it was light out, but a dense fog hid everything. Lupe sawed wood peacefully under her blankie, still weary from two long days of mountain climbing.

Can you lick yourself dry? Apparently you can. Loop had done it. The Carolina Dog was toasty warm and felt completely dry, despite having returned to the G6 cold, drenched, and starving after yesterday’s crazy adventures on Mount Saint George (7,402 ft.).

No need to wonder what to do today. A day of rest was in order. A nice long drive, most of it cruising W across southern Yukon Territory was on tap. Should be a fun, relaxing day with plenty of opportunities for quick stops at beautiful places along the Alaska Highway.

SPHP turned the key. The G6 sprang to life. Headlights on, SPHP drove carefully down the slick, wet highway. Summit Pass, the dense fog, and Lupe’s grand adventures in Stone Mountain Provincial Park were left behind. The American Dingo was awake and alert now, not wanting to miss a thing (5:42 AM).

Lupe and SPHP were still in British Columbia. Loopster would have plenty to do and see before she even got to the Yukon. Her first stop was at a pullout along the Alaska Highway right before the bridge over the Racing River. Lupe had stopped here briefly on her way home last year, too. She’d been delighted to find a beautiful short walk along a grassy road hidden in the woods near the river. There were dispersed camping sites, squirrels in the trees, and at the end of the road, a viewpoint next to the gorgeous river.

Not a soul was around. The squirrels were still here. Lupe had a blast! The woods rang with the shrill joy of an enthusiastic Dingo. Only the sky and the river had changed. Last year Loop had been here in September. The Racing River had been a stunning icy blue on a mostly sunny day. Now the river was swollen with silt, a murky light gray color matching the somber sky.

Lupe at a silty, light gray **Racing River**. 11 months ago the river had been a gorgeous icy blue. Photo looks upstream (SW).

The **Racing River** wasn’t as pretty as last year, but Lupe had a blast barking at squirrels in the woods on the short walk to this viewpoint. Photo looks downstream (NE).

Loop’s next stop was at a pullout with a view of the Toad River reached shortly after entering Muncho Lake Provincial Park. The Toad River wasn’t as silty as the Racing River, but still only offered a hint of the fabulous icy blue color both it and the Racing River had been when Lupe was here in 2016.

The Alaska Highway winds up the **Toad River** valley in **Muncho Lake Provincial Park**.

Looking across the **Toad River** at a big alluvial fan.

Lupe made two more stops in Muncho Lake Provincial Park. Since the Alaska Highway passes right along the E shore of Muncho Lake, her next break from the G6 was to take a good look at the gorgeous lake itself.

**Muncho Lake** sits in a pass high in the **Muskwa Range**. The Alaska Highway follows the E shore of the lake. Photo looks N.

A gorgeous snow-capped peak sits beyond **Muncho Lake** in the direction this photo is looking. Lupe had seen it last year, but today it’s hidden by clouds. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe’s final stop along Muncho Lake was at the impressive Northern Rockies Lodge, which seems to be the center of activity in Muncho Lake Provincial Park.

The **Northern Rockies Lodge** on the E shore of **Muncho Lake** is right off the Alaska Highway, and seems to be the hub of most activity in **Muncho Lake Provincial Park**.

Lupe drops by the **Northern Rockies Lodge** in **Muncho Lake Provincial Park**. She wasn’t an official guest, so she didn’t get to go in, but she would have liked to. It looked luxurious, and American Dingoes love both adventure *and* luxury!

Lupe wasn’t an official guest at the Northern Rockies Lodge, so she didn’t get to go inside to check it out. She most definitely liked the looks of it, though, and would have gladly gone in, if SPHP hadn’t been such a cheapskate and had booked her a room. SPHP wasn’t an official guest, either, but did sneak in to pick up a brochure about flight-seeing tours.

The bush pilot flight-seeing tour to Victoria Falls in Nahanni National Park, one of the largest waterfalls in Canada, sounded absolutely spectacular! The float plane leaves right from Muncho Lake at the Northern Rockies Lodge. The tour alone was a measly $750 Canadian, and accommodations at the fabulous Northern Rockies Lodge could be included in a package deal for a little more. Loopster was all for it!

SPHP muttered something about not being in the budget, an unknown price per Dingo, and unkindly made Lupe’s disappointment even worse by taking her down to see the very float plane she might have soared off to visit Virginia Falls in.

Following the lure of the North, that was exactly what Lupe was here for!

Oh, yeah! Here was the very float plane Lupe might have soared off to Victoria Falls in!

Lupe didn’t get to fly to Victoria Falls, but then SPHP didn’t either, so at least it was fair. However, at the next stop along the Alaska Highway at Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park, SPHP had all the fun.

It wasn’t fair at all that SPHP got to enjoy Liard River Hot Springs and Lupe didn’t, but it really wasn’t SPHP’s fault. Signs made it clear Dingoes were prohibited. Poor Looper couldn’t even take the boardwalk leading to the hot springs for a look around.

It was sort of OK. Loopster was still pretty bushed from her mountain climbing adventures the past two days. An hour’s snooze curled up in the G6 didn’t sound all bad. Besides, it had been awhile, and SPHP would return from the hot springs all fresh and clean as a sweeter-smelling more tolerable traveling companion. SPHP promised not to be gone too long. (8:48 AM, 57°F)

SPHP returned a little more than an hour later sniffing better, warm and relaxed. For only a $5 day-use fee, Liard River Hot Springs had been really unique and a great experience. SPHP was careful not to make it sound too wonderful, though, so Loop wouldn’t get jealous again.

At **Liard River Hot Springs** bathers follow this long boardwalk to get to the actual hot springs. The Liard River is some distance away (on the other side of the Alaska Highway actually) and not in view.

The boardwalk starts out crossing a natural warm water swamp.

The warm water swamp often attracts wildlife, but SPHP saw none today. On the bright side, there weren’t any mosquitoes either.

Once beyond the swamp, the boardwalk goes through a boreal spruce forest.

The boardwalk leads to a changing house next to the hot springs. There are separate rooms for the two sexes with benches and hooks, but no lights, electricity, heat, lockers or running water.

**Liard River Hot Springs** is a totally outdoor experience in a natural lush boreal spruce forest setting. So unique and beautiful!

The hot springs are divided into two sections. This is the upper section where the water has been dammed up a bit. It is only a few feet deep. The water is hottest here, coming from a very hot spring entering this pool at the far end.

This is the lower, cooler downstream pool. It’s only a few feet deep, too. It is not dammed up and drains naturally into a creek at the far end. Choose whatever water temperature you like! The water cools rapidly the farther downstream you go. Like it really hot? Stick with the upper pool.

A view of both pools and the transition between them. Beyond the far end of the upper pool, a boardwalk going L leads to a short trail to the “hanging gardens” which were closed this day due to bear activity. A boardwalk to the R leads directly to a nice outhouse style restroom.

The hot springs enter the upper pool here on the opposite bank. The boardwalk to the hanging gardens trail is in view.

Looking back at **Liard River Hot Springs** from the start of the short boardwalk to the rest rooms. What an awesome wilderness setting! For a $5 day-use fee, you can soak in the hot springs all day if you like. Such a bargain!

Heading back all warm and clean to check on Lupe. There’s a picnic ground and campground at the parking lot, too. Gates close nightly until morning, so don’t stay too late unless you intend to camp!

Once done at Liard River Hot Springs, Lupe and SPHP returned to the Alaska Highway (10:33 AM). There wouldn’t be any more long stops during the day, but Lupe would have plenty of brief opportunities to stretch her legs. Most of the time, the G6 purred its way W.

There were moments of frenzied Dingo excitement!

That crazy little Dingo could make all the racket she wanted to. If anyone was going to do any intimidating, it was this guy.

Along many miles of the Alaska Highway from Muncho Lake Provincial Park to close to Watson Lake, the forest is clear cut far back from the road on both sides. Buffalo like to graze in the resulting adjacent fields. Elsewhere, forests extend to the horizon.

Lupe saw the big gray-green Liard River.

Loop stopped to admire the beautiful **Liard River** that the hot springs are named after.

Arising in the **Pelly Mountains** of SE Yukon, the **Liard River** flows 693 miles through the **Yukon**, **British Columbia**, and **Northwest Territories**. It’s a tributary of the **Mackenzie River**, which ultimately flows N to the **Arctic Ocean** at the **Beaufort Sea**.

Lupe left British Columbia, entering Yukon Territory before arriving in the small town of Watson Lake. As she continued W, the Alaska Highway sometimes curved back into British Columbia for a while, but most of the time Lupe was in the Yukon. She saw many beautiful peaks along the way.

On the drive W across **the southern Yukon**, Lupe saw many beautiful peaks from the Alaska Highway.

Although there was lots to see on the long drive, eternal vigilance wasn’t a strict requirement.

Loop enjoys a bit of peakbagging recovery therapy.

By afternoon, the sky was no longer completely overcast. The day warmed up considerably, hitting 84°F at one point. Sunlight highlighted beauty everywhere. SPHP stopped at a picnic ground near the Morley River. Lupe had high hopes at first, but didn’t care for it in the end. Too many biting flies, bees and mosquitoes. Not enough squirrels. SPHP ate and managed to dry out some wet clothing on the G6 before hitting the road again.

Late in the afternoon, Lupe came to huge Teslin Lake.

Late afternoon found Lupe at **Teslin Lake**.

**Teslin Lake** is many miles long, but relatively narrow. The Alaska Highway follows the NE shore along the N half of the lake. Photo looks NW.

W of Teslin Lake, Lupe and SPHP finally left the Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner, continuing W on Hwy No. 8. After crossing a long bridge over the Tagish River, SPHP pulled into a parking lot along the W bank. Apparently there are recreational facilities in this area. Lupe quickly discovered a boat ramp, and could see people around.

Lupe at a boat ramp on the W bank of the **Tagish River**. Photo looks ENE.

The Tagish River flows N into Marsh Lake. The American Dingo went up on the long bridge over the river for a look at the S end of the lake. The Yukon River flows out of the N end of Marsh Lake, but Looper couldn’t see it from here.

The S end of **Marsh Lake** from the Highway No. 8 bridge over the **Tagish River**. The **Yukon River** flows out of the N end of **Tagish Lake**, but Loop couldn’t see it from here. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

It was evening when Lupe reached Carcross, a small picturesque village. This was Sunday, so there weren’t many people around. All the tourist shops were closed, except for one restaurant where all the action was at the moment.

Lupe and SPHP took a stroll around Carcross just window shopping. SPHP said window shopping was well within budget. Loopster could window shop to her heart’s content! Most of the shops contained artwork or jewelry of one type or another. The buildings themselves were works of art!

Lupe enjoyed a window shopping extravaganza in Carcross! That SPHP sure knows how to show a Dingo a good time!

A Carcross style killer whale was on display.

Artwork and jewelry were central themes in Carcross. Even the shop buildings were works of art!

Window shopping was a nice change of pace. Lupe was soon satisfied with what she hadn’t bought. It was time to move on. Lupe and SPHP headed S from Carcross on the South Klondike Highway No. 2.

South Klondike Highway No. 2 passed along the W shore of two long mountain lakes. First came Tagish Lake. Lupe and SPHP stopped at a pullout to see Bove Island.

Lupe and SPHP stopped at a pullout along Highway No. 2 SE of Carcross where placards touted this view of **Bove Island** (L) in **Tagish Lake**. The forest had grown up so much **Bove Island** was actually only in view from a couple of specific spots. Photo looks NE.

Next up was Tutshi Lake. By the time Lupe reached Tutshi Lake, she had crossed back over the border into British Columbia again.

**Tutshi Lake** from Highway No. 2 S of Carcross. Lupe was back in **British Columbia** here. Photo looks S.

The sun was low when Lupe reached a strange land S of Tutshi Lake. The valley South Klondike Highway No. 2 was passing through widened out a great deal forming a broad basin. Mountains surrounded this relatively level, but roughly rumpled, basin at a distance. Vegetation was scarce. Trees were sparsely distributed. There seemed to be very little soil, and not much of the loose, broken rock typically seen in mountainous terrain.

Low hills having the appearance of exposed bedrock stretched across the basin among a network of numerous odd-shaped lakes of varying sizes. The sides of the mountains surrounding this weird land all appeared to be exposed bedrock to a level far above the basin floor.

The sun was getting low when Lupe left the G6 S of Tutshi Lake to investigate this very strange land. Bedrock seemed to be exposed almost everywhere, very little loose rock or soil was evident, vegetation was sparse, and a network of many odd-shaped lakes of varying sizes existed among low hills of solid rock. Photo looks E.

What an odd place! What had made it this way? This basin was unlike anything Lupe and SPHP had ever seen before. At least that’s how it seemed at first. SPHP thought for a while. A light finally went on. No, that wasn’t really true. Lupe had seen this sort of thing before, but never on such a grand scale.

Eons ago, this basin must have been buried beneath a massive glacier of gigantic proportions. Before it melted away, the glacier had scrapped the soil away down to bedrock. The glacier had been thousands of feet deep, so that even the mountainsides had been scraped clear of loose debris to a great height. Yes, that must be the explanation. It all made sense now.

The Carolina Dog seemed satisfied with this hypothesis. A day or two later, while window shopping again in Skagway, she would eventually see a poster of this unusual territory. The poster billed this region as the “Tormented Valley”, apparently a popular stop on sight-seeing tours between Skagway and Carcross.

Looking SSW across part of the **Tormented Valley**.

Lupe and SPHP continued S on Highway No. 2 passing Canadian Customs located along the W edge of the Tormented Valley. The highway left the Tormented valley going up over a hill at White Pass, before beginning a long descent into a tremendous, steep, V-shaped valley. This made sense, too. This sharp valley must have been eroded out by a once torrential river fed by the meltwaters of the ancient glacier.

Before she had lost too much elevation, Lupe passed through US customs. She had reached Alaska! Then it was down, down, down the deep, impressive valley. When it all ended, Lupe was practically at sea level. She had arrived in Skagway, Alaska.

Though the sun was long down and twilight had already faded to a considerable degree, Lupe and SPHP took an hour long stroll through Skagway. Perhaps it was only because it was sort of late on a Sunday night, but Skagway struck SPHP as a queer place. However, Lupe seemed happy enough with it. Perhaps she was simply glad to be out of the G6 again for a while, even if no one in this town except SPHP paid the least bit of attention to her.

Skagway seemed possessed of virtually no modern buildings, not even a gas station or a hotel. There was almost no traffic. The dim deserted business section was all touristy shops with an old-fashioned look to them. Posted prices reflected Skagway’s reputation as a famous tourist destination. Window shopping would be the order of the day here, too.

But everything was closed and dark, except for a few restaurants and bars. Even they were virtually empty and quiet. No crowds anywhere. A few people were out walking about in small groups of 2 or 3 engaged in low conversation. Occasionally someone shot by on a bicycle or skateboard. Everyone was young. The smell of dope rose from small gatherings seated outside old houses.

I don’t know what I was expecting of Skagway, Looper, but this wasn’t it. This joint is practically a ghost town. Wonder how you get to the ocean? Seems like it ought to be easy to find.

Oh, it’s over that way, SPHP. I can smell it. Can’t be too far. Skagway seems fine to me. What were you expecting, anyway?

Something newer, brighter, livelier, I guess. I suppose that’s all on the cruise ships. That’s how most everyone gets here you know. No doubt that’s why there’s so little traffic and no place to stay. Everyone’s on the ships. Looks like Skagway is still selling the gold rush days with all these old timey buildings.

Gold rush! What’s wrong with that? Maybe we’ll strike it rich!

Oh, nothing. Nothing at all. Except Skagway’s gold rush has been over for a long time. It’s interesting history, but we’re too late to strike it rich. Where is everyone, anyway? It’s summer! Aren’t there any cruise ships in port tonight? I didn’t expect they’d be rolling up the sidewalks at sundown here. Skagway is famous! Why, even I’d heard of it.

It’s Sunday night! Maybe tomorrow will be different?

Perhaps so, Loop. We’ll know soon enough. Doesn’t really matter if it isn’t except for one thing.

What’s that?

There better be a gas station around here somewhere. It’s a long walk to Whitehorse.

In the **Tormented Valley**, British Columbia, Canada on the way to Skagway, Alaska. 8-6-17

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