Alaska – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Paxson Mountain, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska (8-22-23 to 8-24-23)

Days 30-32 and Part 1 of Day 33 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-21-23, 1:15 PM, Tombstone Territorial Park –

So what did they say .. ACHOOO! … in the Interpretive Centre, SPHP?

Bless you, Loopster! Are you ever going to get over these sneezing fits?

Oh, I sure hope … ACHOOO! … so, SPHP.

Me, too, and the sooner the better, Loop. Anyway, the news is about what I figured. Registration for backcountry camping permits opens in January, and they quickly get booked up months in advance. After that, no permits are available unless they get a cancellation. So, Divide Lake is out. Likely always will be for a couple of nomads like us.

What’s the plan then, SPHP?

Guess we’re done with the Dempster Highway, Loop, so it’s on to Alaska!

Alaska! We’re … ACHOOO! … going back to Alaska?

It was the eventual plan all along, Sweet Puppy.

8-21-23, 2:36 PM, 65ºF – At the junction with North Klondike Hwy No. 2, SPHP parked near the display at the start of the Dempster Highway so Lupe could get out and stretch. At Tombstone Park, the sky had been drearily overcast. Not so here. The weather was warm and beautiful.

Back at the **start of the Dempster Highway**. Photo looks E.

We sure had a great time along the Dempster this year, Loop.

More adventures than we’ve ever had along it before, SPHP. And that’s saying something! I had a … a … ACHOOO … blast!

One last blast as we leave it, aye, Looper?

I can’t help it, SPHP.

Oh, I know. Just teasing you, Loopster.

8-21-23, 3:25 PM, 66ºF, Dawson City – Although this was a travel day, and after yesterday’s Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.) adventure Lupe was quite content to snooze on her pink blanket or look out the window, she did get to make a few more stops along the scenic drive.

A visit to Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.) was a tradition whenever passing through Dawson City. The ancient bench at the top of the mountain was in sad shape, but still there.

**Yukon River** (R) from **Midnight Dome**. Photo looks NW.

The air’s much clearer, SPHP. For the first time on this Dingo … ACHOOO! … Vacation we’ve got a terrific view of the Yukon River.

Yes, all better now that the Arctic apocalypse is over, Loop.

Upstream view of the **Yukon River** at **Dawson City**. Photo looks SW.

Leaving Dawson City, Lupe took the ferry to the Top of the World Highway. By 4:25 PM, she was back in Alaska, and by 6:48 PM, the Carolina Dog was well beyond Chicken on Taylor Hwy No. 5, admiring Mount Fairplay, which she’d already climbed once on this Dingo Vacation.

Crossing the **Yukon River** aboard the **George Black ferry**.

**Mount Fairplay** (R of Center) from **Taylor Highway No. 5**. Photo looks S.

8-23-23, 9:26 AM – Last evening’s drive had continued until after dark, then resumed early this morning. Soon there were signs of trouble. Lupe now stood on the Tok-Cutoff bridge over the Chistochina River. Looking upstream, everything seemed fine.

**Chistochina River** upstream view. Photo looks N.

Downstream, however, Mount Sanford (16,237 ft.), usually a gleaming white giant, was dimly seen through a haze.

**Mount Sanford** (Center) beyond the **Chistochina River**. Photo looks SSE.

Smoke, SPHP. The Arctic apocalypse is … ACHOOO! … still here!

The Arctic apocalypse still lived here in Alaska? That was unwelcome news. Fortunately, a little farther on, the haze didn’t seem quite as bad to the W from bluffs overlooking the Copper River.

**Mount Sanford** (Center) and **Mount Drum** (R) beyond the **Copper River**. Photo looks E.

**Copper River** downstream view. Photo looks WSW.

The smoke seems worst toward the S, Loopster. That’s good! We’ll be turning N in just a few more miles at Gakona Junction.

Where are we going, anyway, SPHP?

Denali Highway No. 8. You’ve got several peaks on your list of possibilities there.

The first part of Richardson Highway No. 4 N of Gakona Junction was a mess due to road construction, but led to beautiful new pavement. The highway eventually ran along the E shore of Paxson Lake.

See that huge ridge to the NW across the lake, Loop? That’s where we’ll be going first, Paxson Mountain (5,250 ft.).

The L turn onto Denali Highway No. 8 was only a few miles beyond the N end of Paxson Lake.

8-22-23, 5:43 PM, 64ºF – After a reconnaisance looking for the best spot, SPHP had settled on a Denali Highway pullout near the NW end of the miles long Paxson Mountain ridge. Everything was now ready to go.

Sort of late in the day to be setting out, isn’t it, SPHP? And I see you’re bringing the tiny house!

Yup. Paxson Mountain’s true summit is about 5 miles SSE as the crow flies, Loop. I’m expecting a potentially difficult bushwhack until we reach the alpine. If we can just manage that much this evening, that will put us in good shape to summit and still get back late tomorrow.

We better get after it then, SPHP. You don’t want to be trying to set the tiny house up in the bushes.

About to cross the **Denali Highway** and strike out for Paxon Mountain! Photo looks SE.

The trek started inauspiciously. After crossing the Denali Highway, tall bushes immediately greeted the American Dingo as she headed up the opposite bank. Clouds of gnats, joined by a few mosquitoes and flies, swirled in the air as SPHP fought to push past this first thick stand.

Fortunately, the gnats weren’t aggressive. Their overwhelming numbers would have made that an instant show-stopper. Lupe continued higher, climbing a rumpled, uneven slope amid lower bushes. Reaching a first rocky high point, she had a great view of Peak 4790 back to the NW.

**Peak 4790** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

Remember all the caribou we saw up on Peak 4790 years ago, SPHP?

Oh, yeah! You were so excited, Loop! The fall colors were breath-taking that day, too. Brilliant crimson carpets of alpine bearberries that were out of this world!

Continuing SSE, the territory the Carolina Dog was climbing through was full of bushes. Some were low, but most were waist high on SPHP, often leaving Lupe lost in a jungle where she couldn’t see a thing. Meanwhile, SPHP struggled to find the best routes forward. Occasional open areas provided significant assistance, but usually played out quickly.

After gaining some elevation, crowberries and blueberries appeared – ripe, sweet, and delicious. Despite these temptations, SPHP seldom paused to sample them due to the relentless annoying gnat swarm.

Lupe succeeded in reaching a series of firm or rocky high points, but gaining and keeping elevation was even more difficult than anticipated. These achievements were usually negated by an immediate descent into bush-filled ravines on the other side.

Even so, the American Dingo was making progress. A grand view of a long line of lofty snow and glacier clad peaks appeared far to the NNE. One glacier sweeping down a long valley was particularly impressive.

The line of snow and ice-capped peaks. Photo looks NNE.

Any idea what glacier that big one is, SPHP?

Not sure, but if I had to guess, I’d say it was the Gulkana Glacier, Looper.

**Gulkana Glacier** (Center & R). Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

Whether that identification was correct or not, wasn’t really important. Getting to the alpine, above both bush and gnat line, was. A quick glance at the topo map suggested that aiming for HP4626 was the best course of action. However, getting there proved way more difficult than it looked.

Heading directly SE, the bushes were so tall and dense, that something else had to be done. Lupe successfully followed a more open corridor on a long foray NE, gaining a fair amount of elevation, but then found that turning SE again wouldn’t work due to a deep, rocky ravine in the way.

This unhappy discovery forced a long march S through the wretched high bushes, eventually bringing the Carolina Dog near HP4000, a hill only a mile SSE of where she’d started after 50 minutes of effort.

Near **HP4000** (Center). Photo looks NW.

After crossing a relatively small ravine near HP4000, it looked like Lupe was past the last significant obstacle other than bushes. However, this was not true, as part of the very deep ravine was still ahead.

Climbing out of a **ravine** (L) crossed near **HP4000**. Photo looks NNE.

Unseen from this point, the **deep ravine** was still ahead. Photo looks SE.

Forced SW of HP4000 in order to avoid the deep ravine, Lupe was high enough to see a saddle farther W that would finally get her around it. To reach this saddle required yet another descent into the tall bushes. Near the upper end of the ravine, a pond was visible down in it. The tedious bushwhack was forgotten in an instant when a lone caribou burst forth from this hidden hollow.

The **lone caribou** (Center) of **Caribou Hollow** heads for the hills. Photo looks WSW.

The **caribou** pauses. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe was excited! The caribou ran SW, then S, then back to the NNE. It was almost more than a Carolina Dog could take. Sadly, once it vanished among the tall bushes, she never saw it again.

After crossing the saddle W of Caribou Hollow, rock formations 50 to 100 feet high were in sight to the S. The terrain E of them rose in a series of small benches toward the high ground Lupe was trying to get to.

Near **Caribou Hollow**, heading for the **rock formations** (Center). Photo looks S.

Passing E of the rocks, Lupe began a steady climb on a moderately steep slope. The bushes shrank, then began to thin out. The American Dingo finally managed to reach the alpine. Once there, the rest was easy. The slope diminished as Lupe continued S, eventually leveling out at 4,300 feet. Crossing a level plain, Lupe reached the edge of a broad valley.

Mission accomplished, Loopster! This ought to do for the night.

In the **alpine**. **HP4000** (L) below. Photo looks N.

8-22-23, 8:37 PM, Base Camp, 0.75 mile WSW of HP4626 – SPHP had Lupe’s tiny house all set up on the soft, low tundra. In the alpenglow, a prominent peak was visible nearly 2 miles SSE beyond the broad valley.

**HP5226** (R) from base camp. Photo looks SSE.

What a beautiful spot! We can see for miles! Is that Paxson Mountain to the SSE, SPHP?

Nope. That’s got to be Peak 5226, Loop, which is only about half way to Paxson Mountain from here. We’ll visit it tomorrow. A bit off topic, but I notice that you haven’t suffered a single Dingo-shaking sneeze lately. Are you cured of whatever it was that’s been ailing you?

Oh, maybe so, SPHP. I don’t feel like I need to sneeze anymore.

Glad to hear it, Loopster! I was getting worried about you.

The spot where the tiny house was pitched really was a great place. Looking SW, Lake 3081 and Wait-A-Bit Lake, two of the largest in the Hungry Hollow region were in sight.

**Lake 3081** (Center) and Wait-A-Bit-Lake (L of Center) down in **Hungry Hollow**. Photo looks SW.

Loop, look off to the NW, a little R of the sun. See the highest rounded hill just beyond some others? That’s Tangle Benchmark (5,715 ft.), another mountain on your list of possibilities.

Are we going to climb it, too, SPHP?

Hope so, once we get back from Paxson Mountain. You have a few more peaks within range of the Denali Highway we’re going to try, too.

The more the merrier, SPHP!

**Tangle Benchmark** (R). Photo looks NW.

The evening wore on fair and lovely, full of promise for tomorrow. Getting past all the bushes, ravines, and gnats had been worth it.

Day’s end. **Tangle Benchmark** (R). Photo looks NW.

8-23-23, 7:45 AM, Base Camp, 0.75 mile WSW of HP4626 – Although the night sky had been clear, clouds predominated this morning. Otherwise mild with no wind. Optimism reigned. The American Dingo had already drained one of the four water bottles, and this journey was just getting started, so finding a spot to resupply might be smart.

We’re leaving the tiny house set up here, SPHP?

Yup. I’ll stash the sleeping bags in it, too, so we can travel fast and light. The terrain shouldn’t be difficult now that we’re above the tall bushes. I’m thinking we ought to be able to hit both Peak 5226 and Paxson Mountain, and still get back to the RAV4 before dark.

What about water, SPHP? Does your map show anyplace where we can get more?

Possibly. There’s supposed to be a long, skinny tarn in a ravine 0.25 mile E of here, Looper. We’ll be setting off in that direction anyway, so if there’s actually any water when we get there, I’ll fill up the water bottles. Think we’re ready, so if there are no further questions … Onward! Puppy, ho!

Gradually losing elevation, Lupe set off heading ESE in search of the skinny tarn. With only a few low bushes to contend with, the downhill march on the tundra was super easy. The hidden tarn was right where the map promised it would be. Its calm, green water was very clear.

At the skinny, **hidden tarn**. Photo looks NNE.

Back at peak water supply, Lupe left the S end of the tarn climbing SE on a very steep slope. The rate of climb soon diminished. Peak 5226 was in sight again. Although less than 2 miles away, it looked a long way off.

So we just head for Peak 5226 now, SPHP?

Pretty much, Looper. Should be a gradual, easy climb virtually the entire way. Stick to the high ground as we go around the E end of the valley to our S. That’s about all there is to it.

This rather obvious plan worked well. Lupe had already done the hard part yesterday down among all the ghastly bushes, bugs, and ravines. The tundra was lumpy in some areas, but the Carolina Dog generally made excellent progress as she steadily gained elevation.

Heading for **HP5226** (R of Center). Photo looks SSE.

An exhilarating morning romp! Photo looks SSE.

Eventually the terrain began to steepen. A series of benches separated by rocky climbs was ahead. Picking a way through the rocks up several benches, a grand panorama was back to the N. Lupe could now look down on HP4226, a mile away. Off to the NW, Peak 4790 already looked lower, too. Much higher mountains were well beyond them.

Approaching a rocky scramble between benches. Photo looks SSE.

A quick glance back. **Peak 4790** (far L foreground), **HP4226** (R). Photo looks N.

As the American Dingo continued gaining elevation, the terrain became progressively rockier. Even in the rockiest, steepest sections, Lupe was often able to follow lanes of tundra higher. Views kept improving. Part of Summit Lake appeared to the NNE, with the Gulkana Glacier visible in the mountains beyond it.

**Summit Lake** and the **Gulkana Glacier** (R of Center). Photo looks NNE.

Approaching the steepest, rockiest region. Photo looks SSE.

Near the end of the climb, a certain amount of scrambling around on the rocks was unavoidable. As usual, Lupe enjoyed it.

Following the tundra whenever possible. Photo looks S.

The steepest part of the ascent ended upon reaching a vast rock-strewn plain of yellow tundra. This plain sloped gradually up to the S toward an even higher plateau where a huge billboard and a couple of sheds were in sight along the E edge of the mountain. Somewhat closer along the W edge, a ridge of dark rock rose 50 feet above the terrain around it.

On the **yellow tundra summit plain**. **True summit** (R). Photo looks S.

That dark little ridge must be the top of Peak 5226, SPHP.

Believe you’re right, Loop. Looks like we won’t have any trouble climbing it. Before we do, though, let’s angle over toward the NE edge for another look at Summit Lake.

What a terrific view! Nearly the entire lake was in sight, as well as a long stretch of the Denali Highway down at the base of the mountain.

**Summit Lake** from the **NE edge of Peak 5226**. Photo looks NNE.

Likely the best view we’ll have of Summit Lake, Loopster. We’ll see it again, but we’re closer to it here than we will be at Paxson Mountain.

So beautiful, SPHP! Let’s go check out the true summit now.

Approaching **Peak 5226’s summit** (R). Photo look SSW.

8-23-23, 10:10 AM, 55ºF – Peak 5226’s summit was a quick scramble to the top of a ridge where two high points were separated by 70 to 80 feet. Both prominences featured some tundra among the rocks and were very close to the same elevation. The apparent true summit toward the S end was only marginally higher.

An enormous amount of territory was in sight in all directions, although the views toward the S and W were somewhat marred by a hazy hint of smoke. Summit Lake and the glacier-clad peaks beyond it were clearer off to the NNE.

At the **N end of the Peak 5226 summit ridge**. **Summit Lake** (R). Photo looks N.

**Summit Lake** from **Peak 5226**. Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

Peak 5226’s W flank sloped gradually away to the Hungry Hollow area dotted with many small lakes. Flat Top Mountain (4,679 ft.) to the SSW marked the far edge of that water-logged lowland.

**Flattop Mountain** (L), **Hungry Hollow** (R). Photo looks SW.

However, it was the view to the S that was most relevant. 2 enormous billboards were now in sight, one SE along the E edge of Peak 5226, and another one quite a bit farther S. Between them, Lupe had her first view of Paxson Mountain (5,250 ft.), her ultimate destination, still more than 2 miles SSE.

**Paxson Mountain** (R) from **Peak 5226’s true summit**. Photo looks SSE.

Paxson Mountain definitely looks higher than where we are now, Looper. In fact, I’m surprised at how much higher it looks.

Oh, it’s not all that much different, SPHP. I’m more surprised by how far away it still is.

Yeah, still a bit of a trek, Loopster, but should be an easy one. It’ll go fast. By the way, congratulations on reaching the true summit of Peak 5226!

Thanks, SPHP. I’ll take that, and a chocolate coconut bar to go!

Lupe got her chocolate coconut bar, but didn’t go anywhere. Instead, she opted for a nap on the soft tundra near the true summit. Meanwhile, SPHP enjoyed the splendid views in all directions. Other than the bit of smoke haze, it really was a perfect day.

Half an hour drifted by before SPHP nudged Snoozster.

About time to hit it, Looper.

Summit hour’s over already, SPHP? Seems like I just closed my eyes.

It’s only half over, Loop. You’ll get the rest of your summit hour here on the way back.

Before leaving Peak 5226 entirely, checking out the billboards seemed like a good idea. Lupe went to the closest one along the E edge of the mountain first.

By the **billboard** and **metal sheds** SE of Peak 5226’s summit. Photo looks NE.

So, what does the billboard say, SPHP?

Not a darn thing, Loopster.

Not even “Eat At Joe’s?” What kind of a crummy billboard is this?

It’s most likely a passive repeater, Looper, not actually a billboard. It’s for relaying microwaves, or possibly radio waves.

Boring! I suppose the other one will be the same, SPHP?

Probably, Loop. We can still check it out, though. Maybe it actually will tell us where to eat?

Might as well, since it’s on the way to Paxson Mountain, SPHP.

Heading for the **second billboard** (R). **Paxson Mountain** (L). Photo looks S.

**Peak 5226 summit** (L) beyond the **second repeater**. **First repeater** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

The second billboard also turned out to be a passive repeater. Oh, well! Lupe’s focus was now on her main objective, and a couple of other high points of interest. HP5100, the top of a plateau between Peak 5226 and Paxson Mountain, was closest beyond a 400 foot descent to a very broad, flat saddle. Conical HP5200 at the far S end of Paxson Mountain was also in view.

**Paxson Mountain** (L), **HP5100** (L of Center) with **HP5200** between them. Photo looks S.

The long, gradual descent to the enormous saddle was rocky, but with enough lanes of tundra running through this region to avoid most of the rocks. The entire trek was a lot of fun. Lupe roamed a vast area sniffing wherever she pleased, enjoying spaciousness and solitude that conveyed a sense of boundless freedom.

Descending to the broad saddle. **HP5100** (L). Photo looks SSE.

Crossing the saddle, some of the tundra was wet. Nothing too serious, though. Once across, Lupe climbed another long, gradual slope that was a mix of rock and tundra up to a flat plain along HP5100’s W shoulder. Avoiding HP5100, the American Dingo went far enough S to get beyond it, before turning ESE toward Paxson Mountain.

Approaching **Paxson Mountain**. **Summit** (L of Center), **HP5200** (R). Photo looks ESE.

Another gradual descent was ahead, followed by a steeper drop into a narrow valley cutting N/S across the mountain. Lupe did a great job of reaching this valley near its highest point. All she had to do now was climb Paxson Mountain’s W slope. Since the W slope was very steep here, the Carolina Dog explored the valley a little farther S.

Down in the **valley**. Photo looks NNE.

**Paxson Mountain’s W slope**. Photo looks ESE.

Soon discovering a beautiful stream gushing forth from a spring, Lupe helped herself to a drink, then began her ascent.

At the **spring**. Part of **Paxson Lake** (Center) in the distance. Photo looks S.

The ascent consisted merely of a long, steep, tundra slope. After gaining close to 500 feet of elevation, Lupe reached a plain of yellow tundra and scattered rocks. Once again, a minor ridge of dark rock sat atop a higher plateau to the S. This time, instead of a billboard, a green shed of some sort was visible E of it.

**Paxson Mountain summit** (L of Center), **HP5200** (R). Photo looks SE.

Deja vu all over again, SPHP!

Seems that way, Loop. Shall we repeat our earlier actions at Peak 5226, and go over to the N edge for a look at Summit Lake before heading on to the true summit?

Why not? Might as well make it a tradition, SPHP.

**Summit Lake** & the **Gulkana Glacier** (Center) from **Paxson Mountain**. Photo looks N.

The view of Summit Lake and the Gulkana Glacier were nearly as good here as they had been at Peak 5226, which was now in shadow back to the NNE. Lupe could see both passive repeaters and the little summit ridge she’d visited over there.

**HP5100** (L), **Peak 5226** (R) in the distance. Photo looks NNW.

After a good look at these beautiful and interesting views, Lupe headed SE across the yellow plain, then on up to the green shed situated near the N edge of the elevated plateau E of the summit ridge.

Heading for the **green shed** (R of Center) on the **elevated plateau**. **Summit** (R). Photo looks SE.

**Paxson Mountain’s summit ridge** from the **green shed**. Photo looks WSW.

This hut looks just like the one at Davis Dome (4,124 ft.) back along the Taylor Highway near the Canadian border, SPHP, except it’s newer. What are they for again?

Not sure, Loopster. Presumably houses some kind of communications equipment.

It didn’t take long for the American Dingo to sniff her way once around the green shed, and decide that was sufficient investigation. Lupe then headed over to the 70 foot high rock outcropping constituting a summit ridge remarkably similar to the one at Peak 5226 along the W edge of the plateau, and made the easy scramble to the top. As at Peak 5226, the very highest rocks were near the S end.

**Paxson Mountain true summit.** **HP5200** (L). Photo looks S.

8-23-23, 1:13 PM, 55ºF, Paxson Mountain (5,250 ft.) – As Lupe reached the true summit amid a 10 mph SW breeze, the sky was cloudier in most directions than it had been earlier. Not particularly threatening, but it seemed like a shower might be possible. SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations, Loopster, another Alaskan peak climbed!

Nothing to it, SPHP. Once past all those bushes yesterday, it’s been a blast.

Yes, it has been fun, Loop. Kind of a long march, though.

A chocolate coconut bar would help restore our energy levels, SPHP. You did bring another one, didn’t you?

Of course. Brought a few other supplies, too, Looper. How about we take a quick look around, then we’ll relax for a while.

Sitting on a tundra-covered rock, Lupe basked happily in the glorious success of her Paxson Mountain ascent. Beyond her was that wonderful view of Summit Lake and the Gulkana Glacier.

**Summit Lake** and the **Gulkana Glacier** (L of Center), and **Gakona Glacier** (far R) from **Paxson Mountain summit**. Photo looks NNE.

Looking E, a big river ran N/S between Wolverine Mountain (4,653 ft.), and low mountains of similar height even farther E. The Gakona Glacier feeding this river was in sight in the mountains to the N.

**Gakona River** (L & R) beyond **Wolverine Mountain** (R of Center) and the **green shed**. Photo looks ENE.

The Hungry Hollow lowlands were still off to the W. Flat Top Mountain was SW. Other mountains and domes were visible in these directions, too, but all those that were higher than Paxson Mountain were very far away. To the S, HP5200 partially blocked a view of Paxson Lake.

Lupe was getting anxious for that chocolate coconut bar. Relaxing on tundra below the true summit rocks near the S end of the ridge, SPHP shared one with her, plus a cool mint Cliff bar, the last of the beef jerky supply, and water. The Carolina Dog also enjoyed some Taste of the Wild before her eyes grew heavy. SPHP threw a light jacket over her, as Lupe put her head down and went to sleep.

Getting sleepy next to the **true summit** (L). Photo looks SSW.

Snoozing below the **true summit**. Flat Top Mountain (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

While Lupe dozed, SPHP munched on trail mix, then sat admiring the views for a long time.

8-23-23, 2:42 PM, 55ºF, Paxson Mountain – Rain showers never developed to clear the air to the S. Conditions otherwise remained excellent.

Oh, SPHP! I’ve been dreaming the most beautiful dreams! Is summit hour getting close to over yet?

You must have been really tired, Loopster. Summit hour was over nearly half an hour ago. No worries! It’s been magnificent just being here.

I slept that long, SPHP? I suppose we better get going.

Yeah, probably should, Loop. Hop up onto the true summit again for a minute, then we’ll head out.

Back on **Paxson Mountain’s true summit**. Photo looks S.

For few moments, Lupe was back up there, standing once again on the highest rock of all on Paxson Mountain. While starting the descent to the plateau below, SPHP encouraged the American Dingo to stay put. Compliance ended, however, as soon as SPHP disappeared from view during the short scramble lower.

You never want to take a chance on being left behind, do you, Looper?

Any decent pack sticks together, SPHP!

Don’t you know that I’ll never leave you, Loop? I just wanted to take your picture up there.

Just making sure, SPHP.

Well, that’s alright. C’mon, Loopster! We’ve got one more thing to do up here. Let’s head over to the S end of the plateau for a look at Paxson Lake.

It took only a few minutes to get there.

**Paxson Lake** and **HP5200** (R). Photo looks S.

Awesome view! Paxson Lake is really big, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yup. Like 10 miles long, but narrow, Loop.

Too bad I dreamt so long, SPHP. We could have gone on to HP5200. Bet the view is even better there.

Still possible, Loopster, but we should probably head back. Would be nice to get to the RAV4 this evening, and all those bushes would be a nightmare in the dark.

Lupe scouted a little along the E edge of the plateau, enjoying the big views before heading back to the green shed.

Along the **SE edge of the plateau**. **S end of Summit Lake** and **Gulkana Glacier** (far L), **Gakona Glacier** (R of Center). Photo looks NE.

**Paxson Mountain’s summit ridge** (Center) and the **green shed** from the **S end of the summit plateau**. Photo looks NNW.

Returning N, Lupe scrambled back up onto Paxson Mountain’s summit block. Not clear to the absolute top, but good enough for Dingo work.

Back on the **summit ridge**. Photo looks WSW.

Oh, that’s fabulous, Loopster! Thank you!

The rest of the return started well. The sky cleared somewhat, the day growing sunnier. Lupe had a wonderful time exploring on the way back to Peak 5226.

Approaching **Peak 5226’s true summit** (L) again. Photo looks N.

8-23-23, 4:55 PM, 55ºF, Peak 5226 –

We’re going to tag the true summit again, aren’t we, SPHP?

Absolutely, Looper! More than just tag it, too. My paws are getting pretty sore, so let’s finish your traditional summit hour here.

Returning to Peak 5226‘s true summit, SPHP removed wet boots and socks letting those sore paws bask in the sunshine for a while. The view looking back at Paxson Mountain was splendid in the sunlight.

**Paxson Mountain** (R) from **Peak 5226’s true summit** again. Photo looks SE.

Lupe more than completed her traditional summit hour on Peak 5226. So nice up here, and SPHP’s paws really needed the break. 40 minutes sailed by before SPHP felt like moving again. The sun was still going to be up for quite a while, but was starting to slide toward the NW horizon.

**Tangle Benchmark** (Center) and **Peak 4790** (R) from **Peak 5226’s summit ridge**. Photo looks NW.

8-23-23, 7:23 PM, 62ºF, Base Camp, 0.75 mile WSW of HP4626 – Hobbling painfully back to the tiny house, SPHP rejoiced while removing boots and socks again. Such a lovely evening, and the beautiful ordeal on the way back from Peak 5226 was finally over!

This is it, Loopster! We’re staying right here tonight. No way my paws can take a multi-hour bushwhack now. We’ll do it tomorrow morning.

Fine with me, SPHP! Unzip the door to the tiny house, please. I’m ready to curl up on my red sleeping bag. By the way, what’s for dinner?

Nothing. We’ve consumed everything on our way back here. I didn’t bring that many supplies, I’d been so confident that we’d make it back to the RAV4 tonight. Would have, too, if it weren’t for my painful paws.

8-24-23, Early, Base Camp – Lupe wanted out of the tiny house. SPHP let her go. A cool, overcast morning. SPHP thought nothing of it as fog drifted down among the lowlands of Hungry Hollow. The first part of the night had been tough, but, thankfully, SPHP’s paws were feeling somewhat better now. Lupe returned.

Why aren’t you getting ready to go, SPHP? How are your paws?

Better, but what’s the rush? Another couple of hours of rest won’t hurt a thing, will it, Looper? Besides, it’s nice and cozy in the sleeping bag.

The Carolina Dog had no objections to resuming her comfortable slumber.

8-24-23, Base Camp, 2 hours later – Trouble! SPHP’s reverie was broken by the sound of rain on the tiny house. When the rain didn’t quit within 20 minutes, SPHP nudged the American Dingo.

Loopster, wake up! We’ve got to get out of here.

Why? What’s going on, SPHP?

Rain! We’ll get drenched if we don’t get to the RAV4, ASAP! I’ll pack up in here, and as soon as there’s a lull, we’re getting out.

A lull soon came. Still raining, but very lightly. Lupe got herself soaking wet as soon as she left the tiny house, rolling on the wet tundra. SPHP sprang into action, packing the tiny house up, then hoisting the pack.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Heading N across the level tundra plain, Lupe made rapid progress. Soon she was starting the descent down into the dreaded land of tall bushes. Although it never did rain hard again, the damage was done. SPHP stayed dry only as far as Caribou Hollow. From there a long, wretched trek through the tall bushes was simply unavoidable.

Too late! All the vegetation was already soaking wet. Bushes towering over even SPHP’s head rained cloudbursts down at every touch. Going N or NNW, this time the Carolina Dog’s mission was to head straight for the Denali Highway by the shortest possible route. It was a struggle through bogs and a wilderness of bushes, relieved only by occasional open lanes allowing a welcome spurt forward. Fortunately, in this lower region, Lupe didn’t come to any of the ravines she’d had to cross farther E.

The miserable march finally came to an end. Cold and drenched, Lupe reached the Denali Highway 700 feet from the RAV4 beneath a gray sky of eternal gloom. (End, 8-24-23, 10:15 AM)

On **Paxson Mountain**, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska 8-23-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track & Ascent Statistics

Denali Highway No. 8 Map & Brochure

Peak 4790 & Peak 4403, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska (9-2-19)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Peak 4916, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-30-24)

Day 30 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2024 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

12:08 AM – Despite the low clouds reflecting the lights of Deadhorse that were spitting light rain, and a chill W wind, Lupe wanted out. SPHP joined the Carolina Dog while she sniffed around in the darkness.

Lights of **Deadhorse** near Prudhoe Bay.

Probably the last time we’ll see the lights of Deadhorse, at least on this Dingo Vacation, Loopster.

Oh, are we leaving tomorrow, SPHP?

Yup. August is just about shot, Loop. Time to head S. With a little luck, maybe we can climb a few peaks in the Brooks Range, if the weather will cooperate.

That was a big if, given how rainy the Brooks Range had been not so long ago on the way N.

5:42 AM – Lupe had her last sniff along the Sagavanirktok River, a rosy glow on the ENE horizon in an otherwise gray sky beyond her. Within minutes, even more clouds moved in, turning the entire scene gray.

That’s it! C’mon, Looper. We’ve got 2 errands to run in Deadhorse before we head S.

Make that 3 errands. When SPHP fired up the RAV4, the tire pressure warning light came on and never went out. No obvious flat, but better check it out.

6:40 AM, 38ºF, Deadhorse, Colville automated gas station – After filling the RAV4 at the bargain price of $6.998 per gallon (over 8 bucks 2 years ago), SPHP checked the pressure on all 4 tires. First 3 were at 33 psi, a couple of pounds low, likely just due to the cold. However, the L front tire was at only 31 psi. A slow leak?

Lights were on at a big shop building next to the gas station. A couple of mechanics were in there working on a semi. Could SPHP get all 4 tires aired up a bit here? Sure! No sooner said than done.

And could they recommend a place to get that left front tire repaired, or at least checked for leaks? SPHP was shocked by the reply. Nope! No one they knew of worked on light vehicles here. Everyone works on big rigs. Since the leak seems to be a slow one, just drive to Coldfoot on the S side of the Brooks Range. They’ll be able to take care of it.

Hardly seemed possible, Coldfoot was 240 miles away. Yet, as mechanics, they ought to know the situation around here.

Better be a really slow leak, is all I can say, Loopster.

Don’t we have a spare, SPHP?

Yeah. Kind of hoping we won’t have to use it. It’ll be fun going over Atigun Pass running that little doughnut, Sweet Puppy.

7:39 AM, 37ºF – At Brooks Supply, SPHP bought the last souvenirs of Lupe’s stay in Deadhorse, a set of 4 coffee mugs. All the same, they were beautiful with depictions of trees, moose, and mountains on them. The inscription said “Alaska – Land of the Midnight Sun”.

6 bucks each, can you believe it, Loop? Must have been on clearance.

Errands done, and the low tire pressure light out for the time being, Lupe left Deadhorse beneath a gloomy sky. Bucking a headwind, it felt like a day in late November back home. Comfortably warm, the RAV4 rolled right along, though, and the American Dingo was bright and alert.

Maybe we’ll see some musk oxen, SPHP! Like back in 2022.

Hope so. That would be awesome, Loopster!

No musk oxen appeared, but big rounded ridges E of the Sagavanirktok River valley eventually did as the clouds started to break up. They were white.

Snow, SPHP!

Wow! Must have been snowing here while we were in Deadhorse the last couple of days, Loop. C’mon, let’s get a picture!

**Snow on the highlands** beyond the Sagavanirktok River. Photo looks SE.

Continuing S, the sky was soon looking brighter and brighter to the SW.

Well, I’ll be. Appears we’re going to drive out from under this enormous cloud, Looper. There actually is an end to it.

Before that even happened, an electrifying scene appeared ahead. The entire Brooks Range was a glorious, pristine, winter white! Never in all her summer Dingo Vacations to Canada and Alaska, had Lupe ever seen so much new snow in any of the mountain ranges she’d visited.

My gosh! Could be January, SPHP.

Simply stunning! We’ve got to get some photos, Loop!

Lupe was soon leaping out of the RAV4 every few miles as one gorgeous scene after another appeared.

Approaching the **Brooks Range**. Photo looks S.

On the **Dalton Highway** shortly before driving out from under the cloud. Photo looks S.

**Toolik Lake** (Center). Photo looks W.

After heading W for several miles, once Toolik Lake came into view, the Dalton Highway turned S again, straight into the Brooks Range. SPHP became transfixed by the sight of a gleaming white mountain towering above all others beneath the uncharacteristically clear Arctic sky.

Heading into the **Brooks Range**. **Mount Kiev** (R) beyond **Lake 2892**. Photo looks S.

Oh, my gosh, Loop! That’s Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.)!

Spectacular! I can’t remember ever seeing its summit before, SPHP. Have we?

Perhaps a momentary glimpse among the clouds, Loopster, but never out in a clear blue sky like this before. Maybe we can climb it tomorrow?

Tomorrow? What about today, SPHP? It’s perfect, we can’t let it go to waste.

As slow as I am, Mount Kiev is a long way for us, Looper. It’ll take a 2, or maybe even 3 day backpacking trip, and today will be half shot before we can even set out. There’s another mountain on your list of possibilities that we still might be able to climb this afternoon, though.

And which one is that, SPHP?

Remember West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.), Loop? Peak 4916, the high point of a long ridge on the edge of the North Slope, is NW of it. Ought to have some incredible views on a day like this.

Sounds terrific! Let’s climb Peak 4916 today then, SPHP.

**Mount Kiev** (Center) and **West Galbraith Peak** (R of Center) beyond **Lake 2892**. **Peak 4916** (R edge). Photo looks S.

The plan had been to stay at the Galbraith Lake campground, if the tire pressure light didn’t come on again, and it hadn’t. Suddenly, given the opportunity presented by these totally unexpected amazing conditions, there was reason to get there as soon as possible. Even so, the views were so awesome, SPHP kept stopping along the road.

Approaching **Galbraith Lake** (L). **Mount Kiev** (far R). Photo looks S.

**Mount Kiev** (Center), **West Galbraith Peak** (R). Photo looks S.

**Peak 4600** (Center) and **Peak 4916** (R) from the airstrip and campground access road. Photo looks SW.

**Mount Kiev** (L) beyond **West Galbraith Peak** (R). Photo looks S.

It’s all incredibly beautiful, SPHP, but if we want to climb Peak 4916 today, we need to quit dinking around and get to the campground!

I know. We’re almost there, Looper. Just a few more minutes. You’ll see.

**Peak 5308** (L of Center) and **Peak 7090** (R) from the campground entrance. Photo looks ESE.

1:41 PM, 49ºF, Galbraith Lake Campground – After skipping breakfast, lunch was an absolute necessity before heading into the mountains. SPHP had heated up a can of Dinty Moore chicken & dumplings, a Lupe favorite, to share with the American Dingo. The afternoon had warmed up nicely, the sky remained crystal clear, and the pack was now ready.

Off to the WSW, the big gap N of West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) leading into the valley S of Peak 4916 beckoned.

**West Galbraith Peak** (L) from the **Galbraith Lake Campground**. Photo looks WSW.

Time’s a-wasting! All set, SPHP?

You better believe it! Onward! Puppy, ho!

Taking the loop road to the W side of the campground, Lupe then headed WSW across the tundra. After crossing the access road leading back to the Galbraith airstrip and Dalton Highway, the Carolina Dog ventured up a still colorful tundra slope toward the gap.

Heading for the **gap** (Center) N of **West Galbraith Peak** (L). Photo looks SW.

What little snow was down at this elevation added a bright, white purity to the tundra, but was melting fast. Lupe ate mouthfuls of it. A gradual climb soon led to a flat region that dipped a little ahead. Beyond this plain, HP3500, a 100+ foot high ridge, divided the approach to the valley leading to Peak 4916 into 2 separate routes.

**HP3500** (L of Center). Lupe could go either L (S) or R (N) of it. Photo looks WSW.

SPHP’s initial inclination was to explore the lower route N of HP3500. However, the flat region proved to be boggy. Staying S, where the ground was slightly higher and drier, was better. As a result, Lupe wound up heading for Pass 3350 between West Galbraith Peak and HP3500, since that pass was now closer.

Heading for **Pass 3350** (L) between **West Galbraith Peak** (far L) and **HP3500** (Center). Photo looks WSW.

Along the way, the views were simply incredible! Lupe had explored this region once before. Exactly 2 years ago today, she’d climbed both West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) and Peak 5050. The new snow made everything even more beautiful now.

Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.) was almost directly S. Peak 5305 was SSE. The white monster much farther SE was Peak 7090. Meanwhile, nearly due E, Peak 5308 loomed over the Atigun River valley.

**Mount Kiev** (L), **West Galbraith Peak** (R). Photo looks SSW.

**Mount Kiev** (L of Center) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks S.

**Peak 5305** (L), **Mount Kiev** (R). Photo looks S.

**Peak 5308** (L) and **Peak 7090** (R). Photo looks ESE.

Skirting the S end of the boggy region, the American Dingo eventually had to start climbing again as she approached the pass. As Lupe gained elevation, Galbraith Lake started coming into view behind her. Beyond it, Lake Benchmark Mountain (4,950 ft.) was also in sight, a mountain she had climbed years ago on a day that had begun wonderfully clear like this, but turned foggy.

Getting closer to **Pass 3350** (R of Center). **West Galbraith Peak** (L). Photo looks WSW.

**Lake Benchmark Mountain** (L) and **Peak 5308** (R of Center) beyond **Galbraith Lake**. Photo looks ENE.

Upon reaching Pass 3350, Peak 4500 was in sight just beyond it. The pass was plenty wide and easy terrain, except that most of the center was soft and squishy wet. Trying to avoid sinking into mud, SPHP tried both sides of the pass, the N side first, then the S, which was better.

At **Pass 3350**. **Peak 4500** (L), **HP3500** (R). Photo looks WSW.

Once over Pass 3350, the terrain sloped gradually down to the valley W of West Galbraith Peak. Peak 4916 came into view along the way.

Starting down the **SW side of Pass 3350**. **Peak 4500** (L). Photo looks WSW.

**Peak 4916** (L of Center) beyond Lupe. Photo looks WNW.

Upon reaching a small stream in the valley W of West Galbraith Peak, Lupe crossed it, then regained some elevation as she went around the end of Peak 4500’s NE ridge. This got her to the valley she intended to explore today.

**West Galbraith Peak** from the little stream W of it. Photo looks SE.

Entering the valley SE of **Peak 4916** (R). Photo looks W.

Doing great, Loop! All we have to do now is head WSW up this big valley until we decide on the best place to begin our ascent.

Staying on the S side, somewhat above the floor of the valley where the ground was firmer, Lupe made excellent progress traversing a relatively gentle slope. Before long, the Carolina Dog came to 2 tiny streams in wet washes, easily crossing both as she continued on her way.

“Wet washes” are a thing, aren’t they, Looper? I’ve often heard the term “dry wash” used for a dry, eroded ravine or gully, but come to think of it, I don’t recall ever actually hearing anyone use the term wet wash before.

I suppose they are, SPHP. Makes sense to me. A wet wash is just a dry wash that isn’t dry, right? Hardly a burning issue of social significance, though. Don’t think you need worry about it. Have you decided where we’re going to cross the valley and start up Peak 4916 yet?

Not necessarily. Looks like multiple routes might work. Kind of steeper than I expected, though. Let’s stick with this traverse a little farther. See that high, level ridge on the other side of the valley with some snow on it? It’s SW of Peak 4916’s summit, so a somewhat longer route, but it doesn’t look very hard to get up there. Maybe we ought to try that approach?

Exploring the scenic valley was fun, and there seemed to be adequate time left in the day yet, so why not? Lupe trotted along, happily sniffing and roaming at will, soon reaching a much larger dry wash.

Crossing the **dry wash**. Possible **objective ridge with snow** (R). Photo looks W.

**Peak 4916** (Center) from the dry wash. Photo looks NW.

Beyond the dry wash, the American Dingo came to a big rock. By now, several possible routes up Peak 4916 were in sight. Directly across the valley, a short route up the mountain’s SE ridge appeared feasible, but quite steep. Another one up the nearby S ridge looked similar.

Getting up to that flat, snowy part of the SW ridge still looks easier. Mind if we go that way, Loop, even though it’s a longer route?

More to explore is always fine with me, SPHP.

**Peak 4916** (R) from the big rock. **SE ridge** (R), **S ridge** (Center) in front of the **snowy SW ridge**. Photo looks NW.

With a plan of action now decided upon, Lupe made a gradual descent through a bushy region down to the stream in the center of the valley. After crossing it, she followed the streambed upstream. Coming to other small channels, all were easily crossed. Soon it was time to start angling WNW up the other side of the valley.

A march through another region of bushes and bogginess led to a second dry wash. Beyond it, Lupe climbed a gentle slope to an area with some tundra. This spot had a terrific view of a short side valley immediately S of Peak 4916, as well as farther up the main valley.

4:17 PM, 0.5 mile S of the Peak 4916 summit –

This is a great spot, SPHP! Might not come to another one, once we begin our ascent. I’m getting hungry again, too. Mind if we take a break here?

Sure, but only a short one, Loop, since we got off to kind of a late start.

At the **break spot**. **Peak 4916’s S ridge** (R), **SW ridge** (Center). Photo looks NNW.

A glance back at **Peak 4500** (R of Center). Lupe came up the valley from the L. Photo looks ESE.

After having some Taste of the Wild and a piece of duck jerky, Lupe sat for a few minutes staring SSW farther up the main valley. The N end of Peak 5050, which she’d climbed exactly 2 years ago today by a different route, was right across the valley. Exploring farther up the main valley toward an even higher snowy peak at the far end looked like fun.

**N ridge of Peak 5050** (L). Photo looks SSW.

Maybe someday. While SPHP sat munching on sunflower seeds, Lupe put her head down on the soft tundra, closed her eyes, and snoozed.

4:43 PM – A mighty short nap, but the Carolina Dog did appear to be at least somewhat refreshed.

Ready, Loopster? Not sure how this is going to go. Once we make it up onto the SW ridge, I’m seeing some gnarly-looking rock bands and minor cliffs that we’ll face on the way to the summit. Can’t tell from down here if we’ll be able to get around them, or not.

Only way to find out is to start climbing, SPHP. Unless you’ve changed your mind and want to try some other route?

Having come this far, Peak 4916’s S ridge was now the only other route close by, and it was steeper, nearly all rock, and had some questionable rock formations along the ridgeline, too. Might work, but the tundra slope leading up to the SW ridge looked a lot easier.

Naw. Let’s just head up to the SW ridge, and take our chances, Loop.

The SW ridge was 1,000 feet above the break spot. Heading W, then NW, Lupe began her ascent, showing surprising enthusiasm and energy. The mostly tundra and scree-covered slopes weren’t uniform. Steep most of the way, but with short, significantly easier stretches, too.

Heading up to **Peak 4916’s SW ridge**. Photo looks NW.

During frequent pauses to gasp for air, SPHP kept an eye on the route Lupe would have to take after reaching the ridgeline. Most of it looked fine, but without rock climbing skills, it wouldn’t take that much to hit an insurmountable obstacle. Success wasn’t nearly as certain as SPHP had originally assumed it would be.

Halfway up, at the 4,000 foot level, Lupe came to the brink of a sudden, unexpected drop. This near vertical drop was a mere 10 or 15 feet, but immediately raised concern. Fortunately, the American Dingo quickly discovered a safe spot to scramble down without having to backtrack.

Lupe at the **edge of the dip**. Photo looks N.

That dip was the only real obstacle encountered on the way up to the SW ridge. Once beyond it, Lupe gained a few hundred feet of elevation on fairly steep terrain before coming to an easier stretch, a gentler slope where tundra extended the rest of the way to the ridgeline.

**Easy slope leading to the SW ridge** (far L). **Peak 4916** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

5:42 PM – Lupe reached the SW ridge at broad, rounded saddle. It was a different world up here. Miniature snowdrifts covered an enticing route leading to a higher point farther SW, unfortunately the wrong direction. A NW breeze sweeping over the ridge made SPHP shiver. Suddenly, the sun seemed lower.

For the first time, the Carolina Dog could now see the territory N of the ridge she was on. The view was amazing, but not what SPHP expected.

Shoot! Thought we would have a grand view of Alaska’s North Slope from up here, Loopster.

Might want to take a look at your topo map once in a while, SPHP. I can’t believe it doesn’t show this.

Directly N, where SPHP had expected the North Slope to be, a nearby ridge blocked the view. Looking W, a series of distant mountains and ridges extended from the N edge of the Brooks Range toward a narrow view of the North Slope.

**Peak 4916’s NW ridge**, which blocked the view of the North Slope. Photo looks N.

**N edge of the Brooks Range** (Center), glimpse of the **North Slope** (R). Photo looks W.

While the view N was unexpected, the view to the S was electrifying! Flanked by many snow-clad peaks, beyond Peak 5050, Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.) soared into the blue.

**Mount Kiev** (R of Center) beyond Peak 5050. Photo looks S.

Wow, stunning, SPHP! Even if we never make it to the top of Peak 4916, this view alone has been worth the trip.

True enough, but the news was good. Immediately to the NE was a tall rock wall that had been a concern visible from below. Although clearly impassable across most of the ridge, the American Dingo could easily get around its lower NW end.

Near the **NW end** (L) of the first rock wall. Photo looks NE.

Another wall, which had been of even greater concern, was beyond the first one, but Lupe found the same situation here. Impassable toward the SE, she could easily go around the NW end, where the wall simply melted into the mountain.

Beyond this second wall, a steep slope of somewhat loose scree led up to a high point at the junction of Peak 4916’s NW and SW ridges. While SPHP wasn’t crazy about it, Lupe clearly enjoyed the scramble.

**Junction of the NW & SW ridges** (L), **second rock wall** (R). Photo looks NE.

Near the top of a **fun scramble**. Photo looks ENE.

The junction of Peak 4916’s NW & SW ridges wasn’t real big, but at least it was flat with room enough to move around a bit. From here, Lupe did have a grand view of Alaska’s North Slope. Far beyond a region of small lakes, Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) and Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) were both in sight.

**Imnavait Mountain** (Center) & **Slope Mountain** (far R) on the horizon. Photo looks N.

More of the **North Slope** (Center & R). **Peak 4916’s NW ridge** (far L). Photo looks NNW.

Back to the SW, the scene was one of rugged splendor, where the high ridge comprising Three Sisters Summit (7,386 ft.) rose beyond jagged peaks. Naturally, the view of Mount Kiev remained an eye-catcher, too.

**Three Sisters Summit** (L). Photo looks SW.

Zoomed in on **Mount Kiev** (Center). **Peak 5050** (R foreground). Photo looks S.

As magnificent and awe-inspiring as it all was, one view above all others was now of utmost importance. What was the rest of the ridge leading to Peak 4916 like? Was Lupe going to be able to reach the summit?

The double-topped summit region was now in sight, farther E than SPHP expected. A single massive rock formation halfway along the otherwise simple ridge appeared to be the only obstacle. Was it a show-stopper?

**Peak 4916 summit** (L of Center). **Peak 7090** (R) in the distance. Photo looks E.

Only one way to find out, SPHP!

Let’s do it, Sweet Puppy!

After venturing down a dip along the ridgeline, Lupe started up toward the final obstacle ahead, soon reaching a 10 foot high wall of rock cutting diagonally across the ridge.

**Peak 4916 true summit** (Center) beyond the **third rock wall**. Photo looks E.

As expected, too vertical to scramble over it. A quick check of the snowy slope on the N side was scary steep. Most of the S slope was pretty steep, too, but along the R side of the wall of rock, a ramp that wasn’t bad at all extended clear down to the bottom of the wall.

About to head down to the R **along the base of the wall**. **Peak 4916 SW summit** (L of Center). Photo looks ESE.

This way, SPHP!

If the Carolina Dog could make it back to the ridgeline beyond that next corner, SPHP knew she’d be golden.

Yikes! At the corner, a very steep, somewhat loose scree slope greeted Lupe. Sort of scary, but only for 20 feet. Gotta do it! Trivial for any real mountaineer. A shower of scree clattered down as Lupe went first.

Made it! Not at the ridgeline yet, but she was above the worst of it.

Great job, Loopster!

C’mon, SPHP!

Dicey, but even SPHP managed it.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Approaching the **SW summit** (R of Center). **True summit** (L). Photo looks E.

6:55 PM, 36ºF, Peak 4916 – The final trudge up to the SW summit amid the slanting rays of the early evening sun was a journey of great joy and exhilaration! Upon reaching the top, SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations, Loopster! Can’t be too many Dingoes who have ever been here!

Their huge loss, SPHP! Glad we made it!

The marginally higher true summit was another 125 feet NE, but rocky. Time enough for that in a bit. The gently-rounded SW summit featured some thin tundra Lupe could relax on, so she immediately laid down. SPHP sat beside her. A light N breeze felt cold. Mount Kiev (7,775 ft.) tomorrow? How much more frigid would that be? Suddenly, that notion seemed dangerous.

Chocolate coconut bar time, SPHP. Earned it, didn’t we?

Most certainly, Sweet Puppy. Just a moment.

SPHP produced the expected reward and more. Taste of the Wild and a duck jerky for the American Dingo, sunflower seeds for SPHP. Water for all, of course. When it all vanished, nothing more to do except sit there, surrounded by glory in all directions. So much to see!

**Imnavait Mountain** (L) out on the **North Slope**. **True summit** (R). Photo looks NNE.

**NE extension of Peak 4916’s NW ridge** (Center) with **Itigaknit Mountain (3,293 ft.)** beyond on the far horizon. Photo looks N.

Another look at **Alaska’s North Slope**. **Peak 4916’s NW ridge** (L). Photo looks NW.

**Junction of Peak 4916’s SW & NW ridges** (L), which was along Lupe’s route up. Photo looks WNW.

**Three Sisters Summit** (Center). Photo looks SW.

**Three Sisters Summit** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

**S end of Galbraith Lake** (L), **Peak 7090** (L of Center), **West Galbraith Peak** (Center), **Peak 4500** (far R) with **Mount Kiev** beyond. **Valley Lupe traveled up** (below). Photo looks SE.

Of course, this wasn’t the first time Lupe had seen these views. Exactly 2 years ago, she’d been on West Galbraith Peak (4,560 ft.) & Peak 5050. Both were incredible vantage points. However, with a sweeping view of Alaska’s North Slope, and all of the new snow on the mountains today, Peak 4916 was even better.

Incredible being back among these splendid, wild peaks on the N side of the Brooks Range again, SPHP!

We’re so lucky, Looper, so, so lucky!

7:24 PM – Late August. The Arctic sun was sinking. Half an hour had flown, and it wasn’t getting any warmer. Lupe stood poised on the SW summit, waiting. SPHP took the shot.

Final moments on **Peak 4916’s SW summit**. Photo looks SW.

Fabulous! Got it, Looper! Thank you!

The Carolina Dog came running. One more thing to do up here. Time to tag the true summit! 125 feet along the easy connecting summit ridge, and Lupe was there.

Tagging **Peak 4916’s true summit**. **Lake Benchmark Mountain** (R) beyond **Galbraith Lake**. Photo looks NE.

After tagging the true summit, Lupe looked tired. She laid down on the snow next to the highest rocks and closed her eyes, trying to absorb a bit of warmth from the weak Arctic sun. SPHP let her be. More than 13.67 years old, and here was Lupe, SPHP’s greatest and ever-faithful friend, still climbing mountains on the N side of the Brooks Range in Alaska.

May it always be so!

Resting on **Peak 4916**. **Lake Benchmark Mountain** (far R). Photo looks NE.

While very similar, the views and focus here were a bit different. Beyond Lupe, Peak 4916’s long NE ridge was now in sight, snaking away toward Galbraith Lake, more of which was visible from this end of the summit ridge. Quite a bit of snow had melted, rendering the mountains in this direction less dramatic than they had been earlier in the day.

As Lupe dozed, SPHP’s gaze was increasingly drawn toward Alaska’s still sunlit North Slope, and especially Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) and Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.), seen on the horizon, both sites of former, fondly remembered, adventures.

**Peak 4916’s NE ridge** (Center). **Galbraith Lake** (R) with **Lake Benchmark Mountain** beyond. Photo looks NE.

**Imnavait Mountain** (L) and **Slope Mountain** (R) out on the **North Slope**. Photo looks NNE.

7:42 PM, Peak 4916 – Another very short nap had once again done the American Dingo some good. SPHP stood at the true summit, looking back at Lupe, who was now bright-eyed and raring to go again, the SW summit, and an unforgettable scene beyond her. Sadly, the inevitable moment had come.

**SW summit** (far L), **NW ridge** (R). **True summit rock** (lower R). Photo looks WNW.

Final moments on **Peak 4916**. **Three Sisters Summit** (L). Photo looks SW.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Would have been fun to explore the long NE ridge, but an initial drop getting down to it looked daunting. Instead, displaying great energy and enthusiasm again, the Carolina Dog led the way down the SE ridge. Very rocky and steep for a long way, but it worked. Once back down to the valley, Lupe had a blast roaming at will during the rest of the return as she retraced her original route with relatively minor variations.

11:02 PM, 31ºF, Galbraith Lake campground – The sun was long gone, and virtually all light now, too. Tired and hungry, as Lupe and SPHP reached the RAV4 at the end of this long and fabulous day, a sudden, unexpected change occurred. Fog swept in from the N slope. In less than a minute, the dim, dark silhouettes of the mountains vanished entirely.

Back in the nick of time, SPHP!

Going to be a long, cold night, Loopster.

I’m famished! What’s for dinner, SPHP?

Salmon.

That sounded good – another Lupe favorite! Too bad the Ritz crackers to go with it were all gone.

On **Peak 4916**, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-30-24

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track

Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

Slope Mountain & Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited, Alaska (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

Lake Benchmark Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-29-17)

Imnavait Mountain, North Slope, Alaska (8-26-22)

West Galbraith Peak, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-30-22)

Peak 5050, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-30-22)

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