Paxson Mountain, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska (8-22-23 to 8-24-23)

Days 30-32 and Part 1 of Day 33 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-21-23, 1:15 PM, Tombstone Territorial Park

So what did they say .. ACHOOO! … in the Interpretive Centre, SPHP?

Bless you, Loopster!  Are you ever going to get over these sneezing fits?

Oh, I sure hope … ACHOOO! … so, SPHP.

Me, too, and the sooner the better, Loop.  Anyway, the news is about what I figured.  Registration for backcountry camping permits opens in January, and they quickly get booked up months in advance.  After that, no permits are available unless they get a cancellation.  So, Divide Lake is out.  Likely always will be for a couple of nomads like us.

What’s the plan then, SPHP?

Guess we’re done with the Dempster Highway, Loop, so it’s on to Alaska!

Alaska!  We’re … ACHOOO! … going back to Alaska?

It was the eventual plan all along, Sweet Puppy.

8-21-23, 2:36 PM, 65ºF – At the junction with North Klondike Hwy No. 2, SPHP parked near the display at the start of the Dempster Highway so Lupe could get out and stretch.  At Tombstone Park, the sky had been drearily overcast.  Not so here.  The weather was warm and beautiful.

Back at the start of the Dempster Highway. Photo looks E.

We sure had a great time along the Dempster this year, Loop.

More adventures than we’ve ever had along it before, SPHP.  And that’s saying something!  I had a … a … ACHOOO … blast!

One last blast as we leave it, aye, Looper?

I can’t help it, SPHP.

Oh, I know.  Just teasing you, Loopster.

8-21-23, 3:25 PM, 66ºF, Dawson City – Although this was a travel day, and after yesterday’s Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.) adventure Lupe was quite content to snooze on her pink blanket or look out the window, she did get to make a few more stops along the scenic drive.

A visit to Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.) was a tradition whenever passing through Dawson City.  The ancient bench at the top of the mountain was in sad shape, but still there.

Yukon River (R) from Midnight Dome. Photo looks NW.

The air’s much clearer, SPHP.  For the first time on this Dingo … ACHOOO! … Vacation we’ve got a terrific view of the Yukon River.

Yes, all better now that the Arctic apocalypse is over, Loop.

Upstream view of the Yukon River at Dawson City. Photo looks SW.

Leaving Dawson City, Lupe took the ferry to the Top of the World Highway.  By 4:25 PM, she was back in Alaska, and by 6:48 PM, the Carolina Dog was well beyond Chicken on Taylor Hwy No. 5, admiring Mount Fairplay, which she’d already climbed once on this Dingo Vacation.

Crossing the Yukon River aboard the George Black ferry.
Mount Fairplay (R of Center) from Taylor Highway No. 5. Photo looks S.

8-23-23, 9:26 AM – Last evening’s drive had continued until after dark, then resumed early this morning.  Soon there were signs of trouble.  Lupe now stood on the Tok-Cutoff bridge over the Chistochina River.  Looking upstream, everything seemed fine.

Chistochina River upstream view. Photo looks N.

Downstream, however, Mount Sanford (16,237 ft.), usually a gleaming white giant, was dimly seen through a haze.

Mount Sanford (Center) beyond the Chistochina River. Photo looks SSE.

Smoke, SPHP.  The Arctic apocalypse is … ACHOOO! … still here!

The Arctic apocalypse still lived here in Alaska?  That was unwelcome news.  Fortunately, a little farther on, the haze didn’t seem quite as bad to the W from bluffs overlooking the Copper River.

Mount Sanford (Center) and Mount Drum (R) beyond the Copper River. Photo looks E.
Copper River downstream view. Photo looks WSW.

The smoke seems worst toward the S, Loopster.  That’s good!  We’ll be turning N in just a few more miles at Gakona Junction.

Where are we going, anyway, SPHP?

Denali Highway No. 8.  You’ve got several peaks on your list of possibilities there.

The first part of Richardson Highway No. 4 N of Gakona Junction was a mess due to road construction, but led to beautiful new pavement.  The highway eventually ran along the E shore of Paxson Lake.

See that huge ridge to the NW across the lake, Loop?  That’s where we’ll be going first, Paxson Mountain (5,250 ft.).

The L turn onto Denali Highway No. 8 was only a few miles beyond the N end of Paxson Lake.

8-22-23, 5:43 PM, 64ºF – After a reconnaisance looking for the best spot, SPHP had settled on a Denali Highway pullout near the NW end of the miles long Paxson Mountain ridge.  Everything was now ready to go.

Sort of late in the day to be setting out, isn’t it, SPHP?  And I see you’re bringing the tiny house!

Yup.  Paxson Mountain’s true summit is about 5 miles SSE as the crow flies, Loop.  I’m expecting a potentially difficult bushwhack until we reach the alpine.  If we can just manage that much this evening, that will put us in good shape to summit and still get back late tomorrow. 

We better get after it then, SPHP.  You don’t want to be trying to set the tiny house up in the bushes.

About to cross the Denali Highway and strike out for Paxon Mountain! Photo looks SE.

The trek started inauspiciously.  After crossing the Denali Highway, tall bushes immediately greeted the American Dingo as she headed up the opposite bank.  Clouds of gnats, joined by a few mosquitoes and flies, swirled in the air as SPHP fought to push past this first thick stand.

Fortunately, the gnats weren’t aggressive.  Their overwhelming numbers would have made that an instant show-stopper.  Lupe continued higher, climbing a rumpled, uneven slope amid lower bushes.  Reaching a first rocky high point, she had a great view of Peak 4790 back to the NW.

Peak 4790 (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

Remember all the caribou we saw up on Peak 4790 years ago, SPHP?

Oh, yeah!  You were so excited, Loop!  The fall colors were breath-taking that day, too.  Brilliant crimson carpets of alpine bearberries that were out of this world!

Continuing SSE, the territory the Carolina Dog was climbing through was full of bushes.  Some were low, but most were waist high on SPHP, often leaving Lupe lost in a jungle where she couldn’t see a thing.  Meanwhile, SPHP struggled to find the best routes forward.  Occasional open areas provided significant assistance, but usually played out quickly.

Heading higher.

After gaining some elevation, crowberries and blueberries appeared – ripe, sweet, and delicious.  Despite these  temptations, SPHP seldom paused to sample them due to the relentless annoying gnat swarm.

Lupe succeeded in reaching a series of firm or rocky high points, but gaining and keeping elevation was even more difficult than anticipated.  These achievements were usually negated by an immediate descent into bush-filled ravines on the other side.

Even so, the American Dingo was making progress.  A grand view of a long line of lofty snow and glacier clad peaks appeared far to the NNE.  One glacier sweeping down a long valley was particularly impressive.

The line of snow and ice-capped peaks. Photo looks NNE.

Any idea what glacier that big one is, SPHP?

Not sure, but if I had to guess, I’d say it was the Gulkana Glacier, Looper.

Gulkana Glacier (Center & R). Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

Whether that identification was correct or not, wasn’t really important.  Getting to the alpine, above both bush and gnat line, was.  A quick glance at the topo map suggested that aiming for HP4626 was the best course of action.  However, getting there proved way more difficult than it looked.

HP4626 (L). Photo looks SSE.

Heading directly SE, the bushes were so tall and dense, that something else had to be done.  Lupe successfully followed a more open corridor on a long foray NE, gaining a fair amount of elevation, but then found that turning SE again wouldn’t work due to a deep, rocky ravine in the way.

This unhappy discovery forced a long march S through the wretched high bushes, eventually bringing the Carolina Dog near HP4000, a hill only a mile SSE of where she’d started after 50 minutes of effort.

Near HP4000 (Center). Photo looks NW.

After crossing a relatively small ravine near HP4000, it looked like Lupe was past the last significant obstacle other than bushes.  However, this was not true, as part of the very deep ravine was still ahead.

Climbing out of a ravine (L) crossed near HP4000. Photo looks NNE.
Unseen from this point, the deep ravine was still ahead. Photo looks SE.

Forced SW of HP4000 in order to avoid the deep ravine, Lupe was high enough to see a saddle farther W that would finally get her around it.  To reach this saddle required yet another descent into the tall bushes.  Near the upper end of the ravine, a pond was visible down in it.  The tedious bushwhack was forgotten in an instant when a lone caribou burst forth from this hidden hollow.

The lone caribou (Center) of Caribou Hollow heads for the hills. Photo looks WSW.
The caribou pauses. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe was excited!  The caribou ran SW, then S, then back to the NNE.  It was almost more than a Carolina Dog could take.  Sadly, once it vanished among the tall bushes, she never saw it again.

After crossing the saddle W of Caribou Hollow, rock formations 50 to 100 feet high were in sight to the S.  The terrain E of them rose in a series of small benches toward the high ground Lupe was trying to get to.

Near Caribou Hollow, heading for the rock formations (Center). Photo looks S.

Passing E of the rocks, Lupe began a steady climb on a moderately steep slope.  The bushes shrank, then began to thin out.  The American Dingo finally managed to reach the alpine.  Once there, the rest was easy.  The slope diminished as Lupe continued S, eventually leveling out at 4,300 feet.  Crossing a level plain, Lupe reached the edge of a broad valley.

Mission accomplished, Loopster!  This ought to do for the night.

In the alpine. HP4000 (L) below. Photo looks N.

8-22-23, 8:37 PM, Base Camp, 0.75 mile WSW of HP4626 – SPHP had Lupe’s tiny house all set up on the soft, low tundra.  In the alpenglow, a prominent peak was visible nearly 2 miles SSE beyond the broad valley.

HP5226 (R) from base camp. Photo looks SSE.

What a beautiful spot!  We can see for miles!  Is that Paxson Mountain to the SSE, SPHP?

Nope.  That’s got to be Peak 5226, Loop, which is only about half way to Paxson Mountain from here.  We’ll visit it tomorrow.  A bit off topic, but I notice that you haven’t suffered a single Dingo-shaking sneeze lately.  Are you cured of whatever it was that’s been ailing you?

Oh, maybe so, SPHP.  I don’t feel like I need to sneeze anymore.

Glad to hear it, Loopster!  I was getting worried about you.

The spot where the tiny house was pitched really was a great place.  Looking SW, Lake 3081 and Wait-A-Bit Lake, two of the largest in the Hungry Hollow region were in sight.

Lake 3081 (Center) and Wait-A-Bit-Lake (L of Center) down in Hungry Hollow. Photo looks SW.

Loop, look off to the NW, a little R of the sun.  See the highest rounded hill just beyond some others?  That’s Tangle Benchmark (5,715 ft.), another mountain on your list of possibilities.

Are we going to climb it, too, SPHP?

Hope so, once we get back from Paxson Mountain.  You have a few more peaks within range of the Denali Highway we’re going to try, too.

The more the merrier, SPHP!

Tangle Benchmark (R). Photo looks NW.

The evening wore on fair and lovely, full of promise for tomorrow.  Getting past all the bushes, ravines, and gnats had been worth it.

Day’s end. Tangle Benchmark (R). Photo looks NW.

8-23-23, 7:45 AM, Base Camp, 0.75 mile WSW of HP4626 Although the night sky had been clear, clouds predominated this morning.  Otherwise mild with no wind.  Optimism reigned.  The American Dingo had already drained one of the four water bottles, and this journey was just getting started, so finding a spot to resupply might be smart.

We’re leaving the tiny house set up here, SPHP?

Yup.  I’ll stash the sleeping bags in it, too, so we can travel fast and light.  The terrain shouldn’t be difficult now that we’re above the tall bushes.  I’m thinking we ought to be able to hit both Peak 5226 and Paxson Mountain, and still get back to the RAV4 before dark.

What about water, SPHP?  Does your map show anyplace where we can get more?

Possibly.  There’s supposed to be a long, skinny tarn in a ravine 0.25 mile E of here, Looper.  We’ll be setting off in that direction anyway, so if there’s actually any water when we get there, I’ll fill up the water bottles.  Think we’re ready, so if there are no further questions … Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Gradually losing elevation, Lupe set off heading ESE in search of the skinny tarn.  With only a few low bushes to contend with, the downhill march on the tundra was super easy.  The hidden tarn was right where the map promised it would be.  Its calm, green water was very clear.

At the skinny, hidden tarn. Photo looks NNE.
Getting a drink. Photo looks N.

Back at peak water supply, Lupe left the S end of the tarn climbing SE on a very steep slope.  The rate of climb soon diminished.  Peak 5226 was in sight again.  Although less than 2 miles away, it looked a long way off.

Peak 5226 (R). Photo looks SE.

So we just head for Peak 5226 now, SPHP?

Pretty much, Looper.  Should be a gradual, easy climb virtually the entire way.  Stick to the high ground as we go around the E end of the valley to our S.  That’s about all there is to it.

This rather obvious plan worked well.  Lupe had already done the hard part yesterday down among all the ghastly bushes, bugs, and ravines.  The tundra was lumpy in some areas, but the Carolina Dog generally made excellent progress as she steadily gained elevation.

Heading for HP5226 (R of Center). Photo looks SSE.
An exhilarating morning romp! Photo looks SSE.

Eventually the terrain began to steepen.  A series of benches separated by rocky climbs was ahead.  Picking a way through the rocks up several benches, a grand panorama was back to the N.  Lupe could now look down on HP4226, a mile away.  Off to the NW, Peak 4790 already looked lower, too.  Much higher mountains were well beyond them.

Approaching a rocky scramble between benches. Photo looks SSE.
A quick glance back. Peak 4790 (far L foreground), HP4226 (R). Photo looks N.

As the American Dingo continued gaining elevation, the terrain became progressively rockier.  Even in the rockiest, steepest sections, Lupe was often able to follow lanes of tundra higher.  Views kept improving.  Part of Summit Lake appeared to the NNE, with the Gulkana Glacier visible in the mountains beyond it.

Summit Lake and the Gulkana Glacier (R of Center). Photo looks NNE.
Getting rockier. Photo looks SSE.
Approaching the steepest, rockiest region. Photo looks SSE.

Near the end of the climb, a certain amount of scrambling around on the rocks was unavoidable.  As usual, Lupe enjoyed it.

Following the tundra whenever possible. Photo looks S.

The steepest part of the ascent ended upon reaching a vast rock-strewn plain of yellow tundra.  This plain sloped gradually up to the S toward an even higher plateau where a huge billboard and a couple of sheds were in sight along the E edge of the mountain.  Somewhat closer along the W edge, a ridge of dark rock rose 50 feet above the terrain around it.

On the yellow tundra summit plain. True summit (R). Photo looks S.

That dark little ridge must be the top of Peak 5226, SPHP.

Believe you’re right, Loop.  Looks like we won’t have any trouble climbing it.  Before we do, though, let’s angle over toward the NE edge for another look at Summit Lake.

What a terrific view!  Nearly the entire lake was in sight, as well as a long stretch of the Denali Highway down at the base of the mountain.

Summit Lake from the NE edge of Peak 5226. Photo looks NNE.

Likely the best view we’ll have of Summit Lake, Loopster.  We’ll see it again, but we’re closer to it here than we will be at Paxson Mountain.

So beautiful, SPHP!  Let’s go check out the true summit now.

Approaching Peak 5226’s summit (R). Photo look SSW.
The summit ridge. Photo looks WSW.

8-23-23, 10:10 AM, 55ºF – Peak 5226’s summit was a quick scramble to the top of a ridge where two high points were separated by 70 to 80 feet.  Both prominences featured some tundra among the rocks and were very close to the same elevation.  The apparent true summit toward the S end was only marginally higher.

An enormous amount of territory was in sight in all directions, although the views toward the S and W were somewhat marred by a hazy hint of smoke.  Summit Lake and the glacier-clad peaks beyond it were clearer off to the NNE.

At the N end of the Peak 5226 summit ridge. Summit Lake (R). Photo looks N.
Summit Lake from Peak 5226. Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

Peak 5226’s W flank sloped gradually away to the Hungry Hollow area dotted with many small lakes.  Flat Top Mountain (4,679 ft.) to the SSW marked the far edge of that water-logged lowland.

Flattop Mountain (L), Hungry Hollow (R). Photo looks SW.

However, it was the view to the S that was most relevant.  2 enormous billboards were now in sight, one SE along the E edge of Peak 5226, and another one quite a bit farther S.  Between them, Lupe had her first view of Paxson Mountain (5,250 ft.), her ultimate destination, still more than 2 miles SSE.

Paxson Mountain (R) from Peak 5226’s true summit. Photo looks SSE.

Paxson Mountain definitely looks higher than where we are now, Looper.  In fact, I’m surprised at how much higher it looks.

Oh, it’s not all that much different, SPHP.  I’m more surprised by how far away it still is.

Yeah, still a bit of a trek, Loopster, but should be an easy one.  It’ll go fast.  By the way, congratulations on reaching the true summit of Peak 5226!

Thanks, SPHP.  I’ll take that, and a chocolate coconut bar to go!

Lupe got her chocolate coconut bar, but didn’t go anywhere.  Instead, she opted for a nap on the soft tundra near the true summit.  Meanwhile, SPHP enjoyed the splendid views in all directions.  Other than the bit of smoke haze, it really was a perfect day.

Half an hour drifted by before SPHP nudged Snoozster.

About time to hit it, Looper.

Summit hour’s over already, SPHP?  Seems like I just closed my eyes.

It’s only half over, Loop.  You’ll get the rest of your summit hour here on the way back.

Before leaving Peak 5226 entirely, checking out the billboards seemed like a good idea.  Lupe went to the closest one along the E edge of the mountain first.

By the billboard and metal sheds SE of Peak 5226’s summit. Photo looks NE.

So, what does the billboard say, SPHP?

Not a darn thing, Loopster.

Not even “Eat At Joe’s?”  What kind of a crummy billboard is this?

It’s most likely a passive repeater, Looper, not actually a billboard.  It’s for relaying microwaves, or possibly radio waves.

Boring!  I suppose the other one will be the same, SPHP?

Probably, Loop.  We can still check it out, though.  Maybe it actually will tell us where to eat?

Might as well, since it’s on the way to Paxson Mountain, SPHP.

Heading for the second billboard (R). Paxson Mountain (L). Photo looks S.
Peak 5226 summit (L) beyond the second repeater. First repeater (Center). Photo looks NNE.

The second billboard also turned out to be a passive repeater.  Oh, well!  Lupe’s focus was now on her main objective, and a couple of other high points of interest.  HP5100, the top of a plateau between Peak 5226 and Paxson Mountain, was closest beyond a 400 foot descent to a very broad, flat saddle.  Conical HP5200 at the far S end of Paxson Mountain was also in view.

Paxson Mountain (L), HP5100 (L of Center) with HP5200 between them. Photo looks S.

The long, gradual descent to the enormous saddle was rocky, but with enough lanes of tundra running through this region to avoid most of the rocks.  The entire trek was a lot of fun.  Lupe roamed a vast area sniffing wherever she pleased, enjoying spaciousness and solitude that conveyed a sense of boundless freedom.

Descending to the broad saddle. HP5100 (L). Photo looks SSE.

Crossing the saddle, some of the tundra was wet.  Nothing too serious, though.  Once across, Lupe climbed another long, gradual slope that was a mix of rock and tundra up to a flat plain along HP5100’s W shoulder.  Avoiding HP5100, the American Dingo went far enough S to get beyond it, before turning ESE toward Paxson Mountain.

Approaching Paxson Mountain. Summit (L of Center), HP5200 (R). Photo looks ESE.

Another gradual descent was ahead, followed by a steeper drop into a narrow valley cutting N/S across the mountain.  Lupe did a great job of reaching this valley near its highest point.  All she had to do now was climb Paxson Mountain’s W slope.  Since the W slope was very steep here, the Carolina Dog explored the valley a little farther S.

Down in the valley. Photo looks NNE.
Paxson Mountain’s W slope. Photo looks ESE.

Soon discovering a beautiful stream gushing forth from a spring, Lupe helped herself to a drink, then began her ascent.

At the spring. Part of Paxson Lake (Center) in the distance. Photo looks S.

The ascent consisted merely of a long, steep, tundra slope.  After gaining close to 500 feet of elevation, Lupe reached a plain of yellow tundra and scattered rocks.  Once again, a minor ridge of dark rock sat atop a higher plateau to the S.  This time, instead of a billboard, a green shed of some sort was visible E of it.

Paxson Mountain summit (L of Center), HP5200 (R). Photo looks SE.

Deja vu all over again, SPHP!

Seems that way, Loop.  Shall we repeat our earlier actions at Peak 5226, and go over to the N edge for a look at Summit Lake before heading on to the true summit?

Why not?  Might as well make it a tradition, SPHP.

Summit Lake & the Gulkana Glacier (Center) from Paxson Mountain. Photo looks N.

The view of Summit Lake and the Gulkana Glacier were nearly as good here as they had been at Peak 5226, which was now in shadow back to the NNE.  Lupe could see both passive repeaters and the little summit ridge she’d visited over there.

HP5100 (L), Peak 5226 (R) in the distance. Photo looks NNW.

After a good look at these beautiful and interesting views, Lupe headed SE across the yellow plain, then on up to the green shed situated near the N edge of the elevated plateau E of the summit ridge.

Heading for the green shed (R of Center) on the elevated plateau. Summit (R). Photo looks SE.
Paxson Mountain’s summit ridge from the green shed. Photo looks WSW.

This hut looks just like the one at Davis Dome (4,124 ft.) back along the Taylor Highway near the Canadian border, SPHP, except it’s newer.  What are they for again?

Not sure, Loopster.  Presumably houses some kind of communications equipment.

It didn’t take long for the American Dingo to sniff her way once around the green shed, and decide that was sufficient investigation.  Lupe then headed over to the 70 foot high rock outcropping constituting a summit ridge remarkably similar to the one at Peak 5226 along the W edge of the plateau, and made the easy scramble to the top.  As at Peak 5226, the very highest rocks were near the S end.

Paxson Mountain true summit. HP5200 (L). Photo looks S.

8-23-23, 1:13 PM, 55ºF, Paxson Mountain (5,250 ft.) – As Lupe reached the true summit amid a 10 mph SW breeze, the sky was cloudier in most directions than it had been earlier.  Not particularly threatening, but it seemed like a shower might be possible.  SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations, Loopster, another Alaskan peak climbed!

Nothing to it, SPHP.  Once past all those bushes yesterday, it’s been a blast.

Yes, it has been fun, Loop.  Kind of a long march, though.

A chocolate coconut bar would help restore our energy levels, SPHP.  You did bring another one, didn’t you?

Of course.  Brought a few other supplies, too, Looper.  How about we take a quick look around, then we’ll relax for a while.

Sitting on a tundra-covered rock, Lupe basked happily in the glorious success of her Paxson Mountain ascent.  Beyond her was that wonderful view of Summit Lake and the Gulkana Glacier.

Summit Lake and the Gulkana Glacier (L of Center), and Gakona Glacier (far R) from Paxson Mountain summit. Photo looks NNE.

Looking E, a big river ran N/S between Wolverine Mountain (4,653 ft.), and low mountains of similar height even farther E.  The Gakona Glacier feeding this river was in sight in the mountains to the N.

Gakona River (L & R) beyond Wolverine Mountain (R of Center) and the green shed. Photo looks ENE.

The Hungry Hollow lowlands were still off to the W.  Flat Top Mountain was SW.  Other mountains and domes were visible in these directions, too, but all those that were higher than Paxson Mountain were very far away.  To the S, HP5200 partially blocked a view of Paxson Lake.

Lupe was getting anxious for that chocolate coconut bar.  Relaxing on tundra below the true summit rocks near the S end of the ridge, SPHP shared one with her, plus a cool mint Cliff bar, the last of the beef jerky supply, and water.  The Carolina Dog also enjoyed some Taste of the Wild before her eyes grew heavy.  SPHP threw a light jacket over her, as Lupe put her head down and went to sleep.

Getting sleepy next to the true summit (L). Photo looks SSW.
Snoozing below the true summit. Flat Top Mountain (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

While Lupe dozed, SPHP munched on trail mix, then sat admiring the views for a long time.

8-23-23, 2:42 PM, 55ºF, Paxson Mountain – Rain showers never developed to clear the air to the S.  Conditions otherwise remained excellent.

Oh, SPHP!  I’ve been dreaming the most beautiful dreams!  Is summit hour getting close to over yet?

You must have been really tired, Loopster.  Summit hour was over nearly half an hour ago.  No worries!  It’s been magnificent just being here.

I slept that long, SPHP?  I suppose we better get going.

Yeah, probably should, Loop.  Hop up onto the true summit again for a minute, then we’ll head out.

Back on Paxson Mountain’s true summit. Photo looks S.

For few moments, Lupe was back up there, standing once again on the highest rock of all on Paxson Mountain.  While starting the descent to the plateau below, SPHP encouraged the American Dingo to stay put.  Compliance ended, however, as soon as SPHP disappeared from view during the short scramble lower.

You never want to take a chance on being left behind, do you, Looper?

Any decent pack sticks together, SPHP!

Don’t you know that I’ll never leave you, Loop?  I just wanted to take your picture up there.

Just making sure, SPHP.

Well, that’s alright.  C’mon, Loopster!  We’ve got one more thing to do up here.  Let’s head over to the S end of the plateau for a look at Paxson Lake.

It took only a few minutes to get there.

Paxson Lake and HP5200 (R). Photo looks S.

Awesome view!  Paxson Lake is really big, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yup.  Like 10 miles long, but narrow, Loop.

Too bad I dreamt so long, SPHP.  We could have gone on to HP5200.  Bet the view is even better there.

Still possible, Loopster, but we should probably head back.  Would be nice to get to the RAV4 this evening, and all those bushes would be a nightmare in the dark.

Lupe scouted a little along the E edge of the plateau, enjoying the big views before heading back to the green shed.

Along the SE edge of the plateau. S end of Summit Lake and Gulkana Glacier (far L), Gakona Glacier (R of Center). Photo looks NE.
Paxson Mountain’s summit ridge (Center) and the green shed from the S end of the summit plateau. Photo looks NNW.

Returning N, Lupe scrambled back up onto Paxson Mountain’s summit block.  Not clear to the absolute top, but good enough for Dingo work.

Back on the summit ridge. Photo looks WSW.

Oh, that’s fabulous, Loopster!  Thank you!

The rest of the return started well.  The sky cleared somewhat, the day growing sunnier.  Lupe had a wonderful time exploring on the way back to Peak 5226.

Approaching Peak 5226’s true summit (L) again. Photo looks N.

8-23-23, 4:55 PM, 55ºF, Peak 5226

We’re going to tag the true summit again, aren’t we, SPHP?

Absolutely, Looper!  More than just tag it, too.  My paws are getting pretty sore, so let’s finish your traditional summit hour here.

Returning to Peak 5226‘s true summit, SPHP removed wet boots and socks letting those sore paws bask in the sunshine for a while.  The view looking back at Paxson Mountain was splendid in the sunlight.

Paxson Mountain (R) from Peak 5226’s true summit again. Photo looks SE.

Lupe more than completed her traditional summit hour on Peak 5226.  So nice up here, and SPHP’s paws really needed the break.  40 minutes sailed by before SPHP felt like moving again.  The sun was still going to be up for quite a while, but was starting to slide toward the NW horizon.

Tangle Benchmark (Center) and Peak 4790 (R) from Peak 5226’s summit ridge. Photo looks NW.

8-23-23, 7:23 PM, 62ºF, Base Camp, 0.75 mile WSW of HP4626 Hobbling painfully back to the tiny house, SPHP rejoiced while removing boots and socks again.  Such a lovely evening, and the beautiful ordeal on the way back from Peak 5226 was finally over!

Back at base camp. Photo looks WNW.

This is it, Loopster!  We’re staying right here tonight.  No way my paws can take a multi-hour bushwhack now.  We’ll do it tomorrow morning.

Fine with me, SPHP!  Unzip the door to the tiny house, please.  I’m ready to curl up on my red sleeping bag.  By the way, what’s for dinner?

Nothing.  We’ve consumed everything on our way back here.  I didn’t bring that many supplies, I’d been so confident that we’d make it back to the RAV4 tonight.  Would have, too, if it weren’t for my painful paws.

8-24-23, Early, Base Camp – Lupe wanted out of the tiny house.  SPHP let her go.  A cool, overcast morning.  SPHP thought nothing of it as fog drifted down among the lowlands of Hungry Hollow.  The first part of the night had been tough, but, thankfully, SPHP’s paws were feeling somewhat better now.  Lupe returned.

Why aren’t you getting ready to go, SPHP?  How are your paws?

Better, but what’s the rush?  Another couple of hours of rest won’t hurt a thing, will it, Looper?  Besides, it’s nice and cozy in the sleeping bag.

The Carolina Dog had no objections to resuming her comfortable slumber.

8-24-23, Base Camp, 2 hours later – Trouble!  SPHP’s reverie was broken by the sound of rain on the tiny house.  When the rain didn’t quit within 20 minutes, SPHP nudged the American Dingo.

Loopster, wake up!  We’ve got to get out of here.

Why?  What’s going on, SPHP?

Rain!  We’ll get drenched if we don’t get to the RAV4, ASAP!  I’ll pack up in here, and as soon as there’s a lull, we’re getting out.

A lull soon came.  Still raining, but very lightly.  Lupe got herself soaking wet as soon as she left the tiny house, rolling on the wet tundra.  SPHP sprang into action, packing the tiny house up, then hoisting the pack.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Heading N across the level tundra plain, Lupe made rapid progress.  Soon she was starting the descent down into the dreaded land of tall bushes.  Although it never did rain hard again, the damage was done.  SPHP stayed dry only as far as Caribou Hollow.  From there a long, wretched trek through the tall bushes was simply unavoidable.

Too late!  All the vegetation was already soaking wet.  Bushes towering over even SPHP’s head rained cloudbursts down at every touch.  Going N or NNW, this time the Carolina Dog’s mission was to head straight for the Denali Highway by the shortest possible route.  It was a struggle through bogs and a wilderness of bushes, relieved only by occasional open lanes allowing a welcome spurt forward.  Fortunately, in this lower region, Lupe didn’t come to any of the ravines she’d had to cross farther E.

The miserable march finally came to an end.  Cold and drenched, Lupe reached the Denali Highway 700 feet from the RAV4 beneath a gray sky of eternal gloom.  (End, 8-24-23, 10:15 AM)

On Paxson Mountain, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska 8-23-23
Lupe’s GPS Track (Ascent)

Links:

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Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track & Ascent Statistics

Denali Highway No. 8 Map & Brochure

Peak 4790 & Peak 4403, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska (9-2-19)

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Peak 4790 & Peak 4403, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska (9-2-19)

Day 29 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

6:53 AM, 57ºF, Anchorage – Light rain, and quite breezy, even down here in Anchorage.  Lupe had her answer.  The Carolina Dog wasn’t going to get another shot at Wolverine Peak (4,491 ft.).  Barely into September, Looper should have had more time here, but smoke, wind and rain had made Alaska difficult this year.  Maybe Alaska was over?

That was the big question du jour.  Was it time to leave?  Driving E out of Anchorage, SPHP pondered the issue.  The answer, of course, hinged on the weather.

The rain ended.  The pavement was dry on the way to Palmer.  Maybe Lupe ought to give the Reindeer Hills (5,102 ft.) another look?  Started that way, but it was raining again in Wasilla.  Nah!  Not going to work.  Too far out of the way, and too iffy.  Back to the Glenn Highway and E!

Again the rain quit.  Sunshine!  A beautiful day by the time Lupe reached Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.)Syncline Mountain (5,471 ft.) was out in the clear, too.  Most encouraging, but Lupe had been to both of them.  Farther E there was smoke, again.  The great mental debate raged on.

Gakona Junction.  Decision time.  Sunny, 58ºF, breezy.  Based on no more than the favorable prospects of the moment, instead of heading E on the Tok Cut-off, SPHP drove N on the Richardson Highway.  The American Dingo wasn’t cutting and running quite yet!

3:31 PM, 58ºF, pullout along the Denali Highway (about MP 11?) near the larger lake N of Octopus Lake – Sort of late in the day to be taking off into the Alaskan wilderness, but the S end of Peak 4790 was already visible a mere 2.5 miles from the highway.  Still breezy, but comfortably warm.  Prospects weren’t nearly as sanguine as they had been back at Gakona Junction, though.  Most of the sunshine had disappeared on the drive N.  Heavy clouds hung low in a brooding sky.

Well, now or never!  Better not dilly-dally.  Lupe took a quick look at the unnamed lake next to the highway, and was on her way.

Peak 4790 (R of Center) from the Denali Highway. Photo looks NW.
Checking out the lake next to the highway. Peak 4679 (R). Photo looks SW.

Sticking with the highway, Lupe trotted N past a big drainage that came down out of the NW.   The slopes W of the highway were full of bushes, but she soon came to a spot where they weren’t as thick.  Abandoning the road, the Carolina Dog proceeded up this slope.

The more open ground soon ended, but had already helped Looper get past the worst of the bushes.

Upper end of the open ground NW of the highway. Peak 4790 (R). Photo looks NW.

No avoiding them now – more bushes ahead, but they weren’t too bad.  Following faint animal trails, SPHP could usually push through without too much difficulty.  Although dry, the tundra between bushes was soft and spongy.  Felt good on the paws, no doubt, but crossing the springy terrain required extra effort.

Avoiding the bushes was key to making the trek as easy as possible.  A second priority was to reach firmer ground.  Small ridges slightly higher than the surrounding terrain frequently provided the best support.  Brilliant red tundra tended to flourish on these little ridges, making them easy to spot.

Minor ridges like this one cloaked in crimson provided the best footing. Peak 4790 (R). Photo looks NW.

As Loopster headed higher, a series of small drainages presented the only real obstacles.  The drainages tended to be either full of bushes, or rimmed with them.  Lupe made several steep 30 foot climbs coming out of these ravines.

Climbing out of a drainage.
Brilliant red tundra greets Lupe as she emerges from a ravine.

Instead of going directly toward Peak 4790, Lupe aimed for high ground along a ridgeline to the NW.  SPHP thought the terrain might be firmer up there.  Yet no matter how far NW Loop went, she never quite seemed to reach the ridgeline.  SPHP finally figured out the ridge was merely an illusion.  This was all one big slope.

On a nice solid ramp leading higher. Photo looks N.

The journey to Peak 4790 was absolutely gorgeous!  Vivid yellows, golds, oranges and reds of the early autumn landscape contrasted against the gray gloom overhead.  Sometimes Peak 4790 was in sight, and sometimes not, as Lupe turned N directly toward it.  Wandering ever higher, the American Dingo roamed at will.

Despite a dull day, the tundra was incredible! Peak 4790 (R). Photo looks NNW.
Crossing a minor drainage. Photo looks W.
Another rise ahead. Photo looks NNW.

The terrain gradually steepened as Lupe closed in on Peak 4790.  Still easy going!

Getting closer! Peak 4790 (Center). Photo looks N.

The views were improving.  Snow and glacier-clad peaks off to the NE were only partially hidden by clouds.  To the SE, Lupe could see many small lakes back down by the Denali Highway where she’d started out.  Beyond them were the vast NW slopes of Paxson Mountain (5,226 ft.).  Off to the SW, ponds were coming into view in the saddle between the S ends of Peak 4790 and Peak 4403.

A line of snowy peaks off to the NE.
Paxson Mountain (L) and lakes down by the Denali Highway. Photo looks SE.
Tarns between Peak 4790 and Peak 4403 (R). Photo looks SW.

Looper pressed on.  Tangle Benchmark (5,715 ft.) came into sight well beyond Peak 4403.  Far to the SW, the American Dingo could also see Swede Mountain (4,660 ft.), which she’d climbed only 4 days ago.

Sunshine on the upper S slopes of Peak 4790 as Lupe approaches. Photo looks N.
Tangle Benchmark (Center) beyond Peak 4403 (L). Photo looks NW.
Remember Swede Mountain? It’s at far R beyond the near ridge. Photo looks SW.

A SE shoulder swept up toward Peak 4790’s summit.  Lupe ventured over to this shoulder before turning NW directly toward the mountain.  From here, some rockiness was visible along the steep SE face.

On the SE shoulder. Photo looks NW.

The final 200 feet up the S slope were the only steep part of the ascent.  Sort of rocky, sparsely vegetated, but no great feat.  Peak 4790 was just a big hill!

As Lupe approached the summit, a patch of blue sky sailed overhead.  Despite brilliant sunshine, an annoyingly strong S wind felt cold.  The temperature had been dropping all afternoon.

Climbing the upper S slope. Photo looks NNE.
Almost there! Photo looks NNE.

When Lupe popped over the S rim, a spacious summit was spread out before her.  The whole thing was a mix of rocks and tundra reminiscent of summits Loop had visited at Whistle Ridge and Swede Mountain.  This entire region was quite flat, except toward the far N end where the plateau rose 5 to 10 feet.

Here we are on top of Peak 4790! Looks like the true summit is still a little farther. Photo looks NE.

Intent on reaching the true summit, Lupe proceeded toward the rise at the far end, which looked like it might be some sort of definite minor summit ridge near N the edge of the mountain.

Turned out it was neither.  Upon reaching the rise, Lupe discovered not only that it was not any definite ridgeline, but that it wasn’t near the edge of the mountain either.  Another vast expanse of the summit region lay beyond it.  This N section sloped gradually down to the NE, and looked much the same as the plain Lupe had just crossed.  The highest ground did appear to be somewhere along this central rise.

Countless rocks might have been the marginally highest true summit of Peak 4790.  One prime candidate was a bit larger, and stood out slightly from the rest.  The Carolina Dog wasn’t enjoying the cold wind, and urged SPHP to hurry up!  As far as she was concerned, this rock could be the official Dingo-sanctioned true summit!

On the windy true summit of Peak 4790. Photo looks NNE.

The most impressive views from Peak 4790 were all to the N.  Anxious to escape the wind, Lupe and SPHP continued on to the far NNE end of the summit plateau.  Loop roamed a fair distance below where the rocky slope started to steepen before SPHP finally called a halt.  The maneuver wasn’t as successful as it might have been.  The slope provided scant protection from the cold breeze.

Nevertheless, no sense in losing too much elevation.  Time for a break!  The rocky terrain wasn’t terribly comfortable.  Lupe soon decided to curl up on SPHP’s lap.  SPHP tossed a jacket over her for additional warmth.  Much better!  Windy and cool, but this 20 – 25 mph breeze didn’t even begin to compare with yesterday’s powerful tempest at Wolverine Peak.

Resting while showers sweep over the territory N of Peak 4790. Photo looks N.

Off to the N, showers drifted over high tundra plains, a dark blue line of mountains beyond them.  The most spectacular sight was a distant view of the Gulkana Glacier miles to the NE.

Part of Fielding Lake is visible in this view to the NNE.
Showers on the tundra plains. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.
Gulkana Glacier from Peak 4790. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.
Zoomed in on the Gulkana Glacier.

Many smaller glaciers were also visible along a distant line of peaks to the N.  To the E, a good chunk of Summit Lake was in sight.  Lupe could see all of Sevenmile Lake, which was only a few miles away.  However, this was not the same Sevenmile Lake the Carolina Dog had seen from East Glacier Gap Mountain (6,060 ft.) 5 days ago.

Many more glaciers were visible a long way off. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.
Summit Lake is the big one. Part of Sevenmile Lake is at far R. Photo looks ENE with help from the telephoto lens.

Already getting late in the day.  The views were grand, but Lupe couldn’t linger too long, since the plan was to visit nearby Peak 4403 as well.  20 minutes after starting her rest break, it was time for the American Dingo to be moving on.

Peak 4790’s entire summit region including both the N and S halves was maybe 20 acres in size.  Before departing, a little more exploration along some of the edges seemed like a good idea.  Lupe first sniffed her way along part of the SE rim.  Views of Paxon Mountain and all the little lakes down by the Denali Highway were the highlights in this direction.

Paxon Mountain (L) and Peak 4679 (R) from Peak 4790’s SE rim. Photo looks SSE.

To complete her summit tour, Lupe then crossed over to the opposite side of the mountain.  Peering down over the W edge, the Carolina Dog could scarcely believe her eyes!  Caribou!  A whole herd of them, 30 or 40 strong, was hanging out on a big slope to the N.  The caribou were much lower and quite a long way off.

Part of the caribou herd down on the N flank of Peak 4790. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe raced toward the herd a little way to get a better view, then stopped.  The caribou weren’t even aware of her.  Caribou watching is among the most intensely exciting and enjoyable experiences an American Dingo will ever have.  Lupe was entranced!  The herd grazed peacefully for several minutes before they picked up her scent.

Upon seeing movement, the excitement was just too much!  Lupe let out a single sharp yip, instantly alerting the caribou to her presence.  The caribou didn’t like the notion of company.  Suddenly the whole herd took off running up to the top of Peak 4790.  Racing across the summit, within seconds they all disappeared over the same SE edge Loopster had been exploring only a few minutes ago.

The thrilling caribou on their way across the summit of Peak 4790. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Disappointed by the caribou’s sudden departure, Lupe came running back to tell SPHP all about them.  She then finished her tour of Peak 4790 heading S along the W rim.  Peak 4403, her next objective, was in sight beyond a 0.25 mile wide valley.  Off to the NW, both summits of Peak 5210 were visible with Tangle Benchmark (5,715 ft.) beyond them.

Returning from the caribou watch. Gulkana Glacier (L). Photo looks NE.
Looking NW from the W rim. Peak 5210‘s S summit is at Center. The N summit is the middle high point of the 3 straight up from Lupe. The high point straight up from Lupe’s head is Tangle Benchmark. Photo looks NW.
Peak 4403, Lupe’s next objective, is the nearby lower hill at Center. Swede Mountain is the hill past the lakes beyond it. The big knob at R is HP4900+ at the S end of Peak 5210. Photo looks SW.

Peak 4790 had been an exhilarating experience!  Lupe was still all stirred up about it.  Upon reaching the S end of the summit, realizing that SPHP was about to head back down to possible caribou country, Loop decided she wanted to roam ahead looking for more.

Just follow after me, SPHP! Don’t worry, I’ll be down below sniffing out more caribou! Photo looks SSW.
Returning caribouless to check on SPHP. Peak 4403 (R). Photo looks SSW.

Sadly, an initial search did not turn up any more caribou.  Even so, the American Dingo’s faith and enthusiasm remained undimmed.

Once SPHP made it down most of Peak 4790’s S slope, it was time to think about how to get over to Peak 4403.  Rather than going all the way S to the saddle with the big tarns leading over to it, a direct approach crossing the intervening valley was decided upon.

Probably more caribou out there somewhere, if I watch closely enough! Peak 4403 (L), S summit of Peak 5210 (R), and Tangle Benchmark (far R). Photo looks W.

Oh, it was such a beautiful trek!  Lupe was so happy roaming a valley of gold.  The promised land, if ever there was one!  A little stream along the W side was the only obstacle, and it was easily hopped.

Approaching the promised land! Peak 5210‘s S summit (L), N summit (straight up from Lupe’s rump), with Tangle Benchmark between them. Photo looks NW.
So happy in the valley of gold between Peak 4403 (L) and Peak 4790 (R)! Photo looks N.
Looking back at Peak 4790. Photo looks NE.

Once across the valley, the climb up Peak 4403’s NE slope was actually quite steep.  Lupe had scarcely started the ascent when she came across a rock upon which a large, beautiful, fan-shaped lichen was growing.  SPHP was so impressed with it, that this officially became the “Lichen Route” up Peak 4403.

The amazing fan-shaped lichen of the Lichen Route.
The Lichen Route goes straight up from Lupe, then to the L. Photo looks NW.

The climb up Peak 4403’s NE slope may have been steep, but only for a few hundred feet.  Lupe then reached the ridge N of the summit.  A short trek S brought Loop to the base of a final rocky climb up a big knob.

Approaching Peak 4403 from the N ridge. Photo looks S.

The top of Peak 4403 featured two humps separated by hundreds of feet.  The hump farthest N, which Lupe reached first, was somewhat lower than the S hump.  A rock formation a few feet high was situated along the N edge of the N hump.  The S wind had still been roaring when Lupe left Peak 4790, but had died down quite a bit by now.  Sheltering on the N side of the rock formation during a brief rest break still seemed like a good idea.

Peak 5210‘s S summit (Center) from Peak 4403’s N hump. Photo looks NW.
Loop during a break on the N hump. Peak 4790 in the background. Photo looks NE.

The sky remained overcast.  A thin line of sunshine on mountains far to the E was the only indication that the sun was still above the horizon.  Lupe pressed on to the higher S hump.  A few big rocks encrusted with black lichens were scattered about.  The true summit of Peak 4403 was a marginally higher rock along the N side of the S hump.

2.5 miles back to the G6.  Light was going to be fading soon.  10 or 15 more minutes was all Lupe could spare before moving on.

At the true summit of Peak 4403. The lower N hump is in the foreground on the R. Photo looks NW.
Peak 4790 from Peak 4403. Photo looks NE.
Fourteen Mile Lake (Center) with Swede Mountain beyond. Swede Lake is the large lake in the distance on the L. Photo looks SW.
Paxon Mountain (Center). Photo looks SE.

Fleeting glorious minutes flew by.  Better get on with it.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Heading down the S side of Peak 4403, the Carolina Dog picked up a faint ATV trail.  She followed the ATV trail S for some distance before finally abandoning it to turn SE toward Paxon Mountain.

The sun was down.  The remaining breeze had vanished along with it.  A beautiful evening, but light was already fading fast.  Sensing the need for speed, Lupe was energetic.  Down in the saddle that led to the region S of Peak 4790, the American Dingo roamed far and wide, while SPHP tried to avoid bushes and stay on solid ground.

Peak 4790 (L) during the descent. Photo looks NE.
Down in the saddle region. Peak 4790 (L). Photo looks NE.

Lupe went past a big tarn, and saw several more.  For the most part, SPHP had decent success finding firm terrain, although there were areas of spongy tundra full of potholes, too.

Passing a big tarn. Peak 4790 in the background. Photo looks NNE.
A final glance back at Peak 4403. Photo looks NW.

Once past the tarns, the long slope leading down to the Denali Highway came into view.  Way, way down there, at a second pullout a little NE of where the G6 was parked, a campfire was in sight.  Starting to get dark, but that campfire provided a good target.  The return was now a race to get down to it.  Toward the end came the inevitable bushwhack, but it still wasn’t completely dark when the thrashing around ended as the Carolina Dog finally reached the road.  (9:23 PM)

Good thing Lupe hadn’t abandoned Alaska yet.  Peaks 4790 and 4403 had been an adventure the American Dingo wouldn’t soon forget!

Peak 4790, Hayes Range of the Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska 9-2-19

Links:

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The Denali Highway

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