Midnight Dome – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Paxson Mountain, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska (8-22-23 to 8-24-23)

Days 30-32 and Part 1 of Day 33 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-21-23, 1:15 PM, Tombstone Territorial Park –

So what did they say .. ACHOOO! … in the Interpretive Centre, SPHP?

Bless you, Loopster! Are you ever going to get over these sneezing fits?

Oh, I sure hope … ACHOOO! … so, SPHP.

Me, too, and the sooner the better, Loop. Anyway, the news is about what I figured. Registration for backcountry camping permits opens in January, and they quickly get booked up months in advance. After that, no permits are available unless they get a cancellation. So, Divide Lake is out. Likely always will be for a couple of nomads like us.

What’s the plan then, SPHP?

Guess we’re done with the Dempster Highway, Loop, so it’s on to Alaska!

Alaska! We’re … ACHOOO! … going back to Alaska?

It was the eventual plan all along, Sweet Puppy.

8-21-23, 2:36 PM, 65ºF – At the junction with North Klondike Hwy No. 2, SPHP parked near the display at the start of the Dempster Highway so Lupe could get out and stretch. At Tombstone Park, the sky had been drearily overcast. Not so here. The weather was warm and beautiful.

Back at the **start of the Dempster Highway**. Photo looks E.

We sure had a great time along the Dempster this year, Loop.

More adventures than we’ve ever had along it before, SPHP. And that’s saying something! I had a … a … ACHOOO … blast!

One last blast as we leave it, aye, Looper?

I can’t help it, SPHP.

Oh, I know. Just teasing you, Loopster.

8-21-23, 3:25 PM, 66ºF, Dawson City – Although this was a travel day, and after yesterday’s Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.) adventure Lupe was quite content to snooze on her pink blanket or look out the window, she did get to make a few more stops along the scenic drive.

A visit to Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.) was a tradition whenever passing through Dawson City. The ancient bench at the top of the mountain was in sad shape, but still there.

**Yukon River** (R) from **Midnight Dome**. Photo looks NW.

The air’s much clearer, SPHP. For the first time on this Dingo … ACHOOO! … Vacation we’ve got a terrific view of the Yukon River.

Yes, all better now that the Arctic apocalypse is over, Loop.

Upstream view of the **Yukon River** at **Dawson City**. Photo looks SW.

Leaving Dawson City, Lupe took the ferry to the Top of the World Highway. By 4:25 PM, she was back in Alaska, and by 6:48 PM, the Carolina Dog was well beyond Chicken on Taylor Hwy No. 5, admiring Mount Fairplay, which she’d already climbed once on this Dingo Vacation.

Crossing the **Yukon River** aboard the **George Black ferry**.

**Mount Fairplay** (R of Center) from **Taylor Highway No. 5**. Photo looks S.

8-23-23, 9:26 AM – Last evening’s drive had continued until after dark, then resumed early this morning. Soon there were signs of trouble. Lupe now stood on the Tok-Cutoff bridge over the Chistochina River. Looking upstream, everything seemed fine.

**Chistochina River** upstream view. Photo looks N.

Downstream, however, Mount Sanford (16,237 ft.), usually a gleaming white giant, was dimly seen through a haze.

**Mount Sanford** (Center) beyond the **Chistochina River**. Photo looks SSE.

Smoke, SPHP. The Arctic apocalypse is … ACHOOO! … still here!

The Arctic apocalypse still lived here in Alaska? That was unwelcome news. Fortunately, a little farther on, the haze didn’t seem quite as bad to the W from bluffs overlooking the Copper River.

**Mount Sanford** (Center) and **Mount Drum** (R) beyond the **Copper River**. Photo looks E.

**Copper River** downstream view. Photo looks WSW.

The smoke seems worst toward the S, Loopster. That’s good! We’ll be turning N in just a few more miles at Gakona Junction.

Where are we going, anyway, SPHP?

Denali Highway No. 8. You’ve got several peaks on your list of possibilities there.

The first part of Richardson Highway No. 4 N of Gakona Junction was a mess due to road construction, but led to beautiful new pavement. The highway eventually ran along the E shore of Paxson Lake.

See that huge ridge to the NW across the lake, Loop? That’s where we’ll be going first, Paxson Mountain (5,250 ft.).

The L turn onto Denali Highway No. 8 was only a few miles beyond the N end of Paxson Lake.

8-22-23, 5:43 PM, 64ºF – After a reconnaisance looking for the best spot, SPHP had settled on a Denali Highway pullout near the NW end of the miles long Paxson Mountain ridge. Everything was now ready to go.

Sort of late in the day to be setting out, isn’t it, SPHP? And I see you’re bringing the tiny house!

Yup. Paxson Mountain’s true summit is about 5 miles SSE as the crow flies, Loop. I’m expecting a potentially difficult bushwhack until we reach the alpine. If we can just manage that much this evening, that will put us in good shape to summit and still get back late tomorrow.

We better get after it then, SPHP. You don’t want to be trying to set the tiny house up in the bushes.

About to cross the **Denali Highway** and strike out for Paxon Mountain! Photo looks SE.

The trek started inauspiciously. After crossing the Denali Highway, tall bushes immediately greeted the American Dingo as she headed up the opposite bank. Clouds of gnats, joined by a few mosquitoes and flies, swirled in the air as SPHP fought to push past this first thick stand.

Fortunately, the gnats weren’t aggressive. Their overwhelming numbers would have made that an instant show-stopper. Lupe continued higher, climbing a rumpled, uneven slope amid lower bushes. Reaching a first rocky high point, she had a great view of Peak 4790 back to the NW.

**Peak 4790** (L of Center). Photo looks NW.

Remember all the caribou we saw up on Peak 4790 years ago, SPHP?

Oh, yeah! You were so excited, Loop! The fall colors were breath-taking that day, too. Brilliant crimson carpets of alpine bearberries that were out of this world!

Continuing SSE, the territory the Carolina Dog was climbing through was full of bushes. Some were low, but most were waist high on SPHP, often leaving Lupe lost in a jungle where she couldn’t see a thing. Meanwhile, SPHP struggled to find the best routes forward. Occasional open areas provided significant assistance, but usually played out quickly.

After gaining some elevation, crowberries and blueberries appeared – ripe, sweet, and delicious. Despite these temptations, SPHP seldom paused to sample them due to the relentless annoying gnat swarm.

Lupe succeeded in reaching a series of firm or rocky high points, but gaining and keeping elevation was even more difficult than anticipated. These achievements were usually negated by an immediate descent into bush-filled ravines on the other side.

Even so, the American Dingo was making progress. A grand view of a long line of lofty snow and glacier clad peaks appeared far to the NNE. One glacier sweeping down a long valley was particularly impressive.

The line of snow and ice-capped peaks. Photo looks NNE.

Any idea what glacier that big one is, SPHP?

Not sure, but if I had to guess, I’d say it was the Gulkana Glacier, Looper.

**Gulkana Glacier** (Center & R). Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

Whether that identification was correct or not, wasn’t really important. Getting to the alpine, above both bush and gnat line, was. A quick glance at the topo map suggested that aiming for HP4626 was the best course of action. However, getting there proved way more difficult than it looked.

Heading directly SE, the bushes were so tall and dense, that something else had to be done. Lupe successfully followed a more open corridor on a long foray NE, gaining a fair amount of elevation, but then found that turning SE again wouldn’t work due to a deep, rocky ravine in the way.

This unhappy discovery forced a long march S through the wretched high bushes, eventually bringing the Carolina Dog near HP4000, a hill only a mile SSE of where she’d started after 50 minutes of effort.

Near **HP4000** (Center). Photo looks NW.

After crossing a relatively small ravine near HP4000, it looked like Lupe was past the last significant obstacle other than bushes. However, this was not true, as part of the very deep ravine was still ahead.

Climbing out of a **ravine** (L) crossed near **HP4000**. Photo looks NNE.

Unseen from this point, the **deep ravine** was still ahead. Photo looks SE.

Forced SW of HP4000 in order to avoid the deep ravine, Lupe was high enough to see a saddle farther W that would finally get her around it. To reach this saddle required yet another descent into the tall bushes. Near the upper end of the ravine, a pond was visible down in it. The tedious bushwhack was forgotten in an instant when a lone caribou burst forth from this hidden hollow.

The **lone caribou** (Center) of **Caribou Hollow** heads for the hills. Photo looks WSW.

The **caribou** pauses. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe was excited! The caribou ran SW, then S, then back to the NNE. It was almost more than a Carolina Dog could take. Sadly, once it vanished among the tall bushes, she never saw it again.

After crossing the saddle W of Caribou Hollow, rock formations 50 to 100 feet high were in sight to the S. The terrain E of them rose in a series of small benches toward the high ground Lupe was trying to get to.

Near **Caribou Hollow**, heading for the **rock formations** (Center). Photo looks S.

Passing E of the rocks, Lupe began a steady climb on a moderately steep slope. The bushes shrank, then began to thin out. The American Dingo finally managed to reach the alpine. Once there, the rest was easy. The slope diminished as Lupe continued S, eventually leveling out at 4,300 feet. Crossing a level plain, Lupe reached the edge of a broad valley.

Mission accomplished, Loopster! This ought to do for the night.

In the **alpine**. **HP4000** (L) below. Photo looks N.

8-22-23, 8:37 PM, Base Camp, 0.75 mile WSW of HP4626 – SPHP had Lupe’s tiny house all set up on the soft, low tundra. In the alpenglow, a prominent peak was visible nearly 2 miles SSE beyond the broad valley.

**HP5226** (R) from base camp. Photo looks SSE.

What a beautiful spot! We can see for miles! Is that Paxson Mountain to the SSE, SPHP?

Nope. That’s got to be Peak 5226, Loop, which is only about half way to Paxson Mountain from here. We’ll visit it tomorrow. A bit off topic, but I notice that you haven’t suffered a single Dingo-shaking sneeze lately. Are you cured of whatever it was that’s been ailing you?

Oh, maybe so, SPHP. I don’t feel like I need to sneeze anymore.

Glad to hear it, Loopster! I was getting worried about you.

The spot where the tiny house was pitched really was a great place. Looking SW, Lake 3081 and Wait-A-Bit Lake, two of the largest in the Hungry Hollow region were in sight.

**Lake 3081** (Center) and Wait-A-Bit-Lake (L of Center) down in **Hungry Hollow**. Photo looks SW.

Loop, look off to the NW, a little R of the sun. See the highest rounded hill just beyond some others? That’s Tangle Benchmark (5,715 ft.), another mountain on your list of possibilities.

Are we going to climb it, too, SPHP?

Hope so, once we get back from Paxson Mountain. You have a few more peaks within range of the Denali Highway we’re going to try, too.

The more the merrier, SPHP!

**Tangle Benchmark** (R). Photo looks NW.

The evening wore on fair and lovely, full of promise for tomorrow. Getting past all the bushes, ravines, and gnats had been worth it.

Day’s end. **Tangle Benchmark** (R). Photo looks NW.

8-23-23, 7:45 AM, Base Camp, 0.75 mile WSW of HP4626 – Although the night sky had been clear, clouds predominated this morning. Otherwise mild with no wind. Optimism reigned. The American Dingo had already drained one of the four water bottles, and this journey was just getting started, so finding a spot to resupply might be smart.

We’re leaving the tiny house set up here, SPHP?

Yup. I’ll stash the sleeping bags in it, too, so we can travel fast and light. The terrain shouldn’t be difficult now that we’re above the tall bushes. I’m thinking we ought to be able to hit both Peak 5226 and Paxson Mountain, and still get back to the RAV4 before dark.

What about water, SPHP? Does your map show anyplace where we can get more?

Possibly. There’s supposed to be a long, skinny tarn in a ravine 0.25 mile E of here, Looper. We’ll be setting off in that direction anyway, so if there’s actually any water when we get there, I’ll fill up the water bottles. Think we’re ready, so if there are no further questions … Onward! Puppy, ho!

Gradually losing elevation, Lupe set off heading ESE in search of the skinny tarn. With only a few low bushes to contend with, the downhill march on the tundra was super easy. The hidden tarn was right where the map promised it would be. Its calm, green water was very clear.

At the skinny, **hidden tarn**. Photo looks NNE.

Back at peak water supply, Lupe left the S end of the tarn climbing SE on a very steep slope. The rate of climb soon diminished. Peak 5226 was in sight again. Although less than 2 miles away, it looked a long way off.

So we just head for Peak 5226 now, SPHP?

Pretty much, Looper. Should be a gradual, easy climb virtually the entire way. Stick to the high ground as we go around the E end of the valley to our S. That’s about all there is to it.

This rather obvious plan worked well. Lupe had already done the hard part yesterday down among all the ghastly bushes, bugs, and ravines. The tundra was lumpy in some areas, but the Carolina Dog generally made excellent progress as she steadily gained elevation.

Heading for **HP5226** (R of Center). Photo looks SSE.

An exhilarating morning romp! Photo looks SSE.

Eventually the terrain began to steepen. A series of benches separated by rocky climbs was ahead. Picking a way through the rocks up several benches, a grand panorama was back to the N. Lupe could now look down on HP4226, a mile away. Off to the NW, Peak 4790 already looked lower, too. Much higher mountains were well beyond them.

Approaching a rocky scramble between benches. Photo looks SSE.

A quick glance back. **Peak 4790** (far L foreground), **HP4226** (R). Photo looks N.

As the American Dingo continued gaining elevation, the terrain became progressively rockier. Even in the rockiest, steepest sections, Lupe was often able to follow lanes of tundra higher. Views kept improving. Part of Summit Lake appeared to the NNE, with the Gulkana Glacier visible in the mountains beyond it.

**Summit Lake** and the **Gulkana Glacier** (R of Center). Photo looks NNE.

Approaching the steepest, rockiest region. Photo looks SSE.

Near the end of the climb, a certain amount of scrambling around on the rocks was unavoidable. As usual, Lupe enjoyed it.

Following the tundra whenever possible. Photo looks S.

The steepest part of the ascent ended upon reaching a vast rock-strewn plain of yellow tundra. This plain sloped gradually up to the S toward an even higher plateau where a huge billboard and a couple of sheds were in sight along the E edge of the mountain. Somewhat closer along the W edge, a ridge of dark rock rose 50 feet above the terrain around it.

On the **yellow tundra summit plain**. **True summit** (R). Photo looks S.

That dark little ridge must be the top of Peak 5226, SPHP.

Believe you’re right, Loop. Looks like we won’t have any trouble climbing it. Before we do, though, let’s angle over toward the NE edge for another look at Summit Lake.

What a terrific view! Nearly the entire lake was in sight, as well as a long stretch of the Denali Highway down at the base of the mountain.

**Summit Lake** from the **NE edge of Peak 5226**. Photo looks NNE.

Likely the best view we’ll have of Summit Lake, Loopster. We’ll see it again, but we’re closer to it here than we will be at Paxson Mountain.

So beautiful, SPHP! Let’s go check out the true summit now.

Approaching **Peak 5226’s summit** (R). Photo look SSW.

8-23-23, 10:10 AM, 55ºF – Peak 5226’s summit was a quick scramble to the top of a ridge where two high points were separated by 70 to 80 feet. Both prominences featured some tundra among the rocks and were very close to the same elevation. The apparent true summit toward the S end was only marginally higher.

An enormous amount of territory was in sight in all directions, although the views toward the S and W were somewhat marred by a hazy hint of smoke. Summit Lake and the glacier-clad peaks beyond it were clearer off to the NNE.

At the **N end of the Peak 5226 summit ridge**. **Summit Lake** (R). Photo looks N.

**Summit Lake** from **Peak 5226**. Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

Peak 5226’s W flank sloped gradually away to the Hungry Hollow area dotted with many small lakes. Flat Top Mountain (4,679 ft.) to the SSW marked the far edge of that water-logged lowland.

**Flattop Mountain** (L), **Hungry Hollow** (R). Photo looks SW.

However, it was the view to the S that was most relevant. 2 enormous billboards were now in sight, one SE along the E edge of Peak 5226, and another one quite a bit farther S. Between them, Lupe had her first view of Paxson Mountain (5,250 ft.), her ultimate destination, still more than 2 miles SSE.

**Paxson Mountain** (R) from **Peak 5226’s true summit**. Photo looks SSE.

Paxson Mountain definitely looks higher than where we are now, Looper. In fact, I’m surprised at how much higher it looks.

Oh, it’s not all that much different, SPHP. I’m more surprised by how far away it still is.

Yeah, still a bit of a trek, Loopster, but should be an easy one. It’ll go fast. By the way, congratulations on reaching the true summit of Peak 5226!

Thanks, SPHP. I’ll take that, and a chocolate coconut bar to go!

Lupe got her chocolate coconut bar, but didn’t go anywhere. Instead, she opted for a nap on the soft tundra near the true summit. Meanwhile, SPHP enjoyed the splendid views in all directions. Other than the bit of smoke haze, it really was a perfect day.

Half an hour drifted by before SPHP nudged Snoozster.

About time to hit it, Looper.

Summit hour’s over already, SPHP? Seems like I just closed my eyes.

It’s only half over, Loop. You’ll get the rest of your summit hour here on the way back.

Before leaving Peak 5226 entirely, checking out the billboards seemed like a good idea. Lupe went to the closest one along the E edge of the mountain first.

By the **billboard** and **metal sheds** SE of Peak 5226’s summit. Photo looks NE.

So, what does the billboard say, SPHP?

Not a darn thing, Loopster.

Not even “Eat At Joe’s?” What kind of a crummy billboard is this?

It’s most likely a passive repeater, Looper, not actually a billboard. It’s for relaying microwaves, or possibly radio waves.

Boring! I suppose the other one will be the same, SPHP?

Probably, Loop. We can still check it out, though. Maybe it actually will tell us where to eat?

Might as well, since it’s on the way to Paxson Mountain, SPHP.

Heading for the **second billboard** (R). **Paxson Mountain** (L). Photo looks S.

**Peak 5226 summit** (L) beyond the **second repeater**. **First repeater** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

The second billboard also turned out to be a passive repeater. Oh, well! Lupe’s focus was now on her main objective, and a couple of other high points of interest. HP5100, the top of a plateau between Peak 5226 and Paxson Mountain, was closest beyond a 400 foot descent to a very broad, flat saddle. Conical HP5200 at the far S end of Paxson Mountain was also in view.

**Paxson Mountain** (L), **HP5100** (L of Center) with **HP5200** between them. Photo looks S.

The long, gradual descent to the enormous saddle was rocky, but with enough lanes of tundra running through this region to avoid most of the rocks. The entire trek was a lot of fun. Lupe roamed a vast area sniffing wherever she pleased, enjoying spaciousness and solitude that conveyed a sense of boundless freedom.

Descending to the broad saddle. **HP5100** (L). Photo looks SSE.

Crossing the saddle, some of the tundra was wet. Nothing too serious, though. Once across, Lupe climbed another long, gradual slope that was a mix of rock and tundra up to a flat plain along HP5100’s W shoulder. Avoiding HP5100, the American Dingo went far enough S to get beyond it, before turning ESE toward Paxson Mountain.

Approaching **Paxson Mountain**. **Summit** (L of Center), **HP5200** (R). Photo looks ESE.

Another gradual descent was ahead, followed by a steeper drop into a narrow valley cutting N/S across the mountain. Lupe did a great job of reaching this valley near its highest point. All she had to do now was climb Paxson Mountain’s W slope. Since the W slope was very steep here, the Carolina Dog explored the valley a little farther S.

Down in the **valley**. Photo looks NNE.

**Paxson Mountain’s W slope**. Photo looks ESE.

Soon discovering a beautiful stream gushing forth from a spring, Lupe helped herself to a drink, then began her ascent.

At the **spring**. Part of **Paxson Lake** (Center) in the distance. Photo looks S.

The ascent consisted merely of a long, steep, tundra slope. After gaining close to 500 feet of elevation, Lupe reached a plain of yellow tundra and scattered rocks. Once again, a minor ridge of dark rock sat atop a higher plateau to the S. This time, instead of a billboard, a green shed of some sort was visible E of it.

**Paxson Mountain summit** (L of Center), **HP5200** (R). Photo looks SE.

Deja vu all over again, SPHP!

Seems that way, Loop. Shall we repeat our earlier actions at Peak 5226, and go over to the N edge for a look at Summit Lake before heading on to the true summit?

Why not? Might as well make it a tradition, SPHP.

**Summit Lake** & the **Gulkana Glacier** (Center) from **Paxson Mountain**. Photo looks N.

The view of Summit Lake and the Gulkana Glacier were nearly as good here as they had been at Peak 5226, which was now in shadow back to the NNE. Lupe could see both passive repeaters and the little summit ridge she’d visited over there.

**HP5100** (L), **Peak 5226** (R) in the distance. Photo looks NNW.

After a good look at these beautiful and interesting views, Lupe headed SE across the yellow plain, then on up to the green shed situated near the N edge of the elevated plateau E of the summit ridge.

Heading for the **green shed** (R of Center) on the **elevated plateau**. **Summit** (R). Photo looks SE.

**Paxson Mountain’s summit ridge** from the **green shed**. Photo looks WSW.

This hut looks just like the one at Davis Dome (4,124 ft.) back along the Taylor Highway near the Canadian border, SPHP, except it’s newer. What are they for again?

Not sure, Loopster. Presumably houses some kind of communications equipment.

It didn’t take long for the American Dingo to sniff her way once around the green shed, and decide that was sufficient investigation. Lupe then headed over to the 70 foot high rock outcropping constituting a summit ridge remarkably similar to the one at Peak 5226 along the W edge of the plateau, and made the easy scramble to the top. As at Peak 5226, the very highest rocks were near the S end.

**Paxson Mountain true summit.** **HP5200** (L). Photo looks S.

8-23-23, 1:13 PM, 55ºF, Paxson Mountain (5,250 ft.) – As Lupe reached the true summit amid a 10 mph SW breeze, the sky was cloudier in most directions than it had been earlier. Not particularly threatening, but it seemed like a shower might be possible. SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations, Loopster, another Alaskan peak climbed!

Nothing to it, SPHP. Once past all those bushes yesterday, it’s been a blast.

Yes, it has been fun, Loop. Kind of a long march, though.

A chocolate coconut bar would help restore our energy levels, SPHP. You did bring another one, didn’t you?

Of course. Brought a few other supplies, too, Looper. How about we take a quick look around, then we’ll relax for a while.

Sitting on a tundra-covered rock, Lupe basked happily in the glorious success of her Paxson Mountain ascent. Beyond her was that wonderful view of Summit Lake and the Gulkana Glacier.

**Summit Lake** and the **Gulkana Glacier** (L of Center), and **Gakona Glacier** (far R) from **Paxson Mountain summit**. Photo looks NNE.

Looking E, a big river ran N/S between Wolverine Mountain (4,653 ft.), and low mountains of similar height even farther E. The Gakona Glacier feeding this river was in sight in the mountains to the N.

**Gakona River** (L & R) beyond **Wolverine Mountain** (R of Center) and the **green shed**. Photo looks ENE.

The Hungry Hollow lowlands were still off to the W. Flat Top Mountain was SW. Other mountains and domes were visible in these directions, too, but all those that were higher than Paxson Mountain were very far away. To the S, HP5200 partially blocked a view of Paxson Lake.

Lupe was getting anxious for that chocolate coconut bar. Relaxing on tundra below the true summit rocks near the S end of the ridge, SPHP shared one with her, plus a cool mint Cliff bar, the last of the beef jerky supply, and water. The Carolina Dog also enjoyed some Taste of the Wild before her eyes grew heavy. SPHP threw a light jacket over her, as Lupe put her head down and went to sleep.

Getting sleepy next to the **true summit** (L). Photo looks SSW.

Snoozing below the **true summit**. Flat Top Mountain (R of Center). Photo looks SW.

While Lupe dozed, SPHP munched on trail mix, then sat admiring the views for a long time.

8-23-23, 2:42 PM, 55ºF, Paxson Mountain – Rain showers never developed to clear the air to the S. Conditions otherwise remained excellent.

Oh, SPHP! I’ve been dreaming the most beautiful dreams! Is summit hour getting close to over yet?

You must have been really tired, Loopster. Summit hour was over nearly half an hour ago. No worries! It’s been magnificent just being here.

I slept that long, SPHP? I suppose we better get going.

Yeah, probably should, Loop. Hop up onto the true summit again for a minute, then we’ll head out.

Back on **Paxson Mountain’s true summit**. Photo looks S.

For few moments, Lupe was back up there, standing once again on the highest rock of all on Paxson Mountain. While starting the descent to the plateau below, SPHP encouraged the American Dingo to stay put. Compliance ended, however, as soon as SPHP disappeared from view during the short scramble lower.

You never want to take a chance on being left behind, do you, Looper?

Any decent pack sticks together, SPHP!

Don’t you know that I’ll never leave you, Loop? I just wanted to take your picture up there.

Just making sure, SPHP.

Well, that’s alright. C’mon, Loopster! We’ve got one more thing to do up here. Let’s head over to the S end of the plateau for a look at Paxson Lake.

It took only a few minutes to get there.

**Paxson Lake** and **HP5200** (R). Photo looks S.

Awesome view! Paxson Lake is really big, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yup. Like 10 miles long, but narrow, Loop.

Too bad I dreamt so long, SPHP. We could have gone on to HP5200. Bet the view is even better there.

Still possible, Loopster, but we should probably head back. Would be nice to get to the RAV4 this evening, and all those bushes would be a nightmare in the dark.

Lupe scouted a little along the E edge of the plateau, enjoying the big views before heading back to the green shed.

Along the **SE edge of the plateau**. **S end of Summit Lake** and **Gulkana Glacier** (far L), **Gakona Glacier** (R of Center). Photo looks NE.

**Paxson Mountain’s summit ridge** (Center) and the **green shed** from the **S end of the summit plateau**. Photo looks NNW.

Returning N, Lupe scrambled back up onto Paxson Mountain’s summit block. Not clear to the absolute top, but good enough for Dingo work.

Back on the **summit ridge**. Photo looks WSW.

Oh, that’s fabulous, Loopster! Thank you!

The rest of the return started well. The sky cleared somewhat, the day growing sunnier. Lupe had a wonderful time exploring on the way back to Peak 5226.

Approaching **Peak 5226’s true summit** (L) again. Photo looks N.

8-23-23, 4:55 PM, 55ºF, Peak 5226 –

We’re going to tag the true summit again, aren’t we, SPHP?

Absolutely, Looper! More than just tag it, too. My paws are getting pretty sore, so let’s finish your traditional summit hour here.

Returning to Peak 5226‘s true summit, SPHP removed wet boots and socks letting those sore paws bask in the sunshine for a while. The view looking back at Paxson Mountain was splendid in the sunlight.

**Paxson Mountain** (R) from **Peak 5226’s true summit** again. Photo looks SE.

Lupe more than completed her traditional summit hour on Peak 5226. So nice up here, and SPHP’s paws really needed the break. 40 minutes sailed by before SPHP felt like moving again. The sun was still going to be up for quite a while, but was starting to slide toward the NW horizon.

**Tangle Benchmark** (Center) and **Peak 4790** (R) from **Peak 5226’s summit ridge**. Photo looks NW.

8-23-23, 7:23 PM, 62ºF, Base Camp, 0.75 mile WSW of HP4626 – Hobbling painfully back to the tiny house, SPHP rejoiced while removing boots and socks again. Such a lovely evening, and the beautiful ordeal on the way back from Peak 5226 was finally over!

This is it, Loopster! We’re staying right here tonight. No way my paws can take a multi-hour bushwhack now. We’ll do it tomorrow morning.

Fine with me, SPHP! Unzip the door to the tiny house, please. I’m ready to curl up on my red sleeping bag. By the way, what’s for dinner?

Nothing. We’ve consumed everything on our way back here. I didn’t bring that many supplies, I’d been so confident that we’d make it back to the RAV4 tonight. Would have, too, if it weren’t for my painful paws.

8-24-23, Early, Base Camp – Lupe wanted out of the tiny house. SPHP let her go. A cool, overcast morning. SPHP thought nothing of it as fog drifted down among the lowlands of Hungry Hollow. The first part of the night had been tough, but, thankfully, SPHP’s paws were feeling somewhat better now. Lupe returned.

Why aren’t you getting ready to go, SPHP? How are your paws?

Better, but what’s the rush? Another couple of hours of rest won’t hurt a thing, will it, Looper? Besides, it’s nice and cozy in the sleeping bag.

The Carolina Dog had no objections to resuming her comfortable slumber.

8-24-23, Base Camp, 2 hours later – Trouble! SPHP’s reverie was broken by the sound of rain on the tiny house. When the rain didn’t quit within 20 minutes, SPHP nudged the American Dingo.

Loopster, wake up! We’ve got to get out of here.

Why? What’s going on, SPHP?

Rain! We’ll get drenched if we don’t get to the RAV4, ASAP! I’ll pack up in here, and as soon as there’s a lull, we’re getting out.

A lull soon came. Still raining, but very lightly. Lupe got herself soaking wet as soon as she left the tiny house, rolling on the wet tundra. SPHP sprang into action, packing the tiny house up, then hoisting the pack.

Onward! Puppy, ho!

Heading N across the level tundra plain, Lupe made rapid progress. Soon she was starting the descent down into the dreaded land of tall bushes. Although it never did rain hard again, the damage was done. SPHP stayed dry only as far as Caribou Hollow. From there a long, wretched trek through the tall bushes was simply unavoidable.

Too late! All the vegetation was already soaking wet. Bushes towering over even SPHP’s head rained cloudbursts down at every touch. Going N or NNW, this time the Carolina Dog’s mission was to head straight for the Denali Highway by the shortest possible route. It was a struggle through bogs and a wilderness of bushes, relieved only by occasional open lanes allowing a welcome spurt forward. Fortunately, in this lower region, Lupe didn’t come to any of the ravines she’d had to cross farther E.

The miserable march finally came to an end. Cold and drenched, Lupe reached the Denali Highway 700 feet from the RAV4 beneath a gray sky of eternal gloom. (End, 8-24-23, 10:15 AM)

On **Paxson Mountain**, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska 8-23-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track & Ascent Statistics

Denali Highway No. 8 Map & Brochure

Peak 4790 & Peak 4403, Hayes Range, Amphitheater Mountains, Alaska (9-2-19)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Into the Arctic Apocalypse! – To Eagle Plains, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-6-23 to 8-8-23)

Days 15, 16 & Part 1 of Day 17 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-6-23, 6:03 AM, 62ºF, Steese Highway at the Twelvemile Summit Wayside, Alaska – Lupe was already awake, panting on her pink blanket.

About time you woke up, SPHP. Can you please open the RAV4’s windows and let some air in here? I’m roasting!

Sorry, Miss Hot-Blooded. Seemed like a mighty comfortable night to me. Yes, I’ll open the windows as soon as we get going. The mosquitoes are bad, which is why they’re closed in the first place.

So, where are we going today, anyway, SPHP?

Fairbanks first. We can get some weather forecasts there, and maybe find out if there’s anywhere we can escape this endless smoke.

8-6-23, 1:15 PM, 76ºF, Fairbanks, Alaska –

Any decision yet, SPHP? You’ve been dithering for hours! It’s hot in here even with the windows open when we’re not moving.

I know it, but the situation is just incredible, Loopster! Who would have thought that we would run into the worst air quality in North America this far N? Rain expected almost every day in SW Alaska, which doesn’t do us any good, and hot and smoky almost everywhere else, even up in the Brooks Range for the next few days. Heavy rains incoming after that.

There must be someplace where it isn’t raining or on fire, SPHP.

Yes, way down by Whitehorse and Haines Junction in the Yukon, the air quality and weather are both lovely. Would be wonderful, if we were on our way back home, Looper, but we’re not.

Well, what about the Dempster Highway, SPHP? Are things any better there yet?

The air quality map says it’s still smoky all the way from Dawson City to Tuktoyaktuk, Loop. An apocalypse all the way to the Arctic Ocean! It’s unbelievable! Always dreamed of having some decent weather so we could climb a few peaks in the Richardson Range. Yet now that it’s finally warm and dry in that territory instead of the usual freezing rain and snow we’ve encountered there before, the boreal forests and tundra are on fire, and the smoke is terrible.

So, what are we going to do then, SPHP? Just sit here wasting time?

No, right or wrong, I’ll make up my mind one way or another shortly, Loopster. Promise!

SPHP did decide, but before even getting out of Fairbanks turned the RAV4 around, reversing the decision.

No Brooks Range, SPHP?

Love the Brooks Range! You know that, Loop, but we were there last year. This was supposed to be the year the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returned to Tuktoyaktuk. I guess we may as well try it. After all, how many warm, dry years are we going to have a shot at in the Richardson Mountains? This might be our only chance to do much of anything there. Maybe we’ll get lucky, and the smoke won’t be that bad by the time we get there?

I’ve never been to an Arctic apocalypse before, SPHP. Maybe it will be fun?

Count your blessings, Loopster. Apocalypses usually don’t have that much to commend them, but we’ll see.

8-6-23, 2:42 PM, Alaska Highway, halfway to Delta Junction – The smoke thickened, the sky turned an eerie orange, and it got noticeably darker.

What’s happening, SPHP? Have we reached the apocalypse already?

I don’t know. Seems that way, doesn’t it, Looper?

Suddenly, the smoke was no longer down on the highway, but looming menacingly overhead. A few miles farther, SPHP stopped at a pullout along the Tanana River. Lupe leapt out of the RAV4 for a look. Beyond the river, an enormous plume of smoke was rising from unseen fires off to the NW.

The apocalypse from along the **Tanana River**. Photo looks NW.

Hah! Look at that, Loop! Appears we’re already leaving the apocalypse behind us.

Oh, I hope so, SPHP! Didn’t think it would be this easy.

Air quality was greatly improved on the way to Tok, and remained the best it had been since way back at Telkwa Microwave Mountain in British Columbia after turning onto the Taylor Highway. A bit of haze, but Mount Fairplay was easily visible from a great distance against a blue sky when Lupe reached a pullout on a high ridge with a view.

**Mount Fairplay** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Maybe you made the right choice, SPHP? The air is definitely much clearer now than when we climbed Mount Fairplay 4 days ago.

Oh, yeah! Undisputable. We couldn’t have seen Mount Fairplay at all from here back then, Loop.

The improvement in air quality was most encouraging, but by the time Lupe reached Chicken, another plume of smoke was visible. It turned out to be farther off than it first seemed, and SPHP eventually drove past that region. However, another plume of smoke appeared N of the Top of the World Highway shortly before reaching the Canadian border.

8-6-23, 8:35 PM, Top of the World Highway – Customs closed at 6:00 PM, so Lupe had arrived much too late to enter Canada today. SPHP parked the RAV4 at a pullout a mile W of the border. NW of this pullout, a huge expanse of territory was in view. It was all somewhat smoky, and many small plumes could be seen rising from a hill only a few miles away.

Every now and then, a towering bright orange flame would flare up briefly on that hill before dying away within a few minutes. The air was much clearer to the SE, protected by a breeze that kept the smoke away. After hanging around the pullout for nearly an hour and seeing a fox trot through it, which was pretty exciting, it getting on toward sunset.

We ought to climb Davis Dome (4,124 ft.), SPHP! For an apocalypse, it’s a lovely evening, and I’ve been cooped up in the RAV4 most of the day.

Great minds think alike, Loopster! Let’s do it!

Davis Dome was no big deal – an easy romp! Located immediately WSW of the pullout, less than 300 feet of elevation gain got Lupe to the top.

**Davis Dome** (Center) from the **Top of the World Highway**. Photo looks WSW.

8-6-23, 9:39 PM, Davis Dome (4,124 ft.) – The summit region was big, round, flat, and covered with tundra and small rocks. There were a few things to see up here in addition to the unobstructed expansive views. Conducting a clockwise tour, the first item of interest along this route was an odd green shack near the SW edge.

Part of the **Davis Dome summit region**. Photo looks SW.

By the mysterious green shack. Photo looks SSW.

We’ve seen other sheds like this before, SPHP. I presume it has something to do with the weather or communications like you always tell me?

Yes, I suppose so. I don’t actually know what any of them are for, Loop. Just a guess.

Two cairns were over by the N edge of the summit region. The largest cairn sat on a big rock that had a survey benchmark attached to it. And that was about it for highlights other than the views. Rounded hills and ridges, most of them lower, extended to the horizon in all directions.

While these vast empty scenes were all amazing, a couple of views stood out. Canadian and US customs over by two hills 1.5 mile NE, and looking off to the NW, an orange sun setting beyond the smoking hill.

On the **biggest cairn**. **Survey benchmark** (Center). **US/Canadian customs** is over by the two hills on the R. Photo looks NE.

**Davis Dome survey benchmark**. Sadly, no “Walker” stamp as shown on the maps.

A smoking sunset from the small cairn. Photo looks NW.

Same view with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.

20 minutes on Davis Dome, and the show was over. The sun was gone.

Getting late, Loop. Already 10:00 PM. Might as well head back. Another long drive ahead of us tomorrow.

Are we going to be making any stops along the way, SPHP?

Sure, Looper, but exactly when, where, and for how long all depends on what we find. No big adventures if it’s really smoky.

About to head back down to the RAV4. Photo looks NE.

8-7-23, 12:30 AM – SPHP woke suddenly to a low growl. A waxing moon was shining brightly in the E. At a 90º angle, a bit of twilight remained visible far to the N. Seemed a peculiar arrangement for a night sky, but not unusual in Alaska. Hackles up, Lupe was alert, watching. Something was out there in the night! Considerably larger than the fox seen earlier, a coyote, or maybe a wolf, was slinking its way across the pullout. The American Dingo exploded into a barking frenzy.

A wolf, SPHP! A real live wild wolf!

You’re a great watch Dingo, Looper, but forget it! Not letting you out there to tangle with that!

8-7-23, 7:41 AM, 64ºF – Davis Dome made a great morning constitutional, in addition to offering a first glimpse of what the day had in store. Off to the N, smoke drifted lazily in the valleys, while more billowed up toward the NW.

Morning view of the apocalypse from **Davis Dome**. Photo looks N.

Mordor as seen from afar, Looper.

Mordor? Such drama, SPHP! Look at that incredible blue sky above it all. Everyone knows Mordor doesn’t have skies like that.

Me, drama? Really, Loop? What about your gut-busting barking frenzy last night?

Totally justified. That wolf was real, SPHP!

8-7-23, 11:32 AM, 74ºF – As usual, the Carolina Dog had sailed through Canadian customs without a hitch. After a break for Ritz Crackers and cheese (Dingoes love crackers and cheese!) on the first big hill the Top of the World Highway climbed after entering Yukon Territory, SPHP hadn’t made any other stops. Smoke marred the views during the entire drive to the Yukon River where Lupe now stood waiting for the George Black Ferry to Dawson City.

Blue skies overhead, but the smoke wasn’t any better down in the river valley than it had been 5 days ago.

Waiting for the **George Black Ferry** (L) on the **Yukon River**. Photo looks ENE.

I know it’s smoky, but while we’re in Dawson, can we at least check out the views from Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.), SPHP?

But of course, Sweet Puppy, the smoke isn’t that bad, and Midnight Dome is a tradition. Basically just a drive up, so it won’t take all that long.

**Yukon River** (L & Center) from **Midnight Dome** near Dawson City. Photo looks SW.

8-7-23, 1:12 PM, 81ºF – After leaving Dawson City, air quality improved dramatically during the drive E to the start of the Dempster Highway.

Display at the start of the **Dempster Highway**. Photo looks E.

Wow! Can it be? Maybe the apocalypse has moved on, Loopster.

Uh, no. The journey N on the Dempster had barely begun when a huge plume of smoke came into view. A SE breeze was driving it straight at the Ogilvie Mountains. By KM 25, they could scarcely be seen at all.

Entering **Tombstone Territorial Park**. Dempster Highway KM 48. Photo looks N.

Figures. We’ll see what they have to say at the Tombstone Interpretive Center, Loop.

It’s not looking good, SPHP.

Yeah, maybe we’re crazy coming all the way back here, Looper.

Speak for yourself, SPHP. I’m just along for the adventures!

8-7-23, 3:47 PM, 74ºF, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, KM 71 –

Any news, SPHP?

Yup. Not good news, though. Guess I was nuts for coming back all this way. They say the forecast is still for widespread heat and smoke. Chance of rain in a few days, but we’re not going to just sit here hoping for that to actually happen.

So, what’s the plan, SPHP?

We’re just going to keep driving N hoping for improvement, Loop.

And if we don’t get any? Then what, SPHP?

We’re committed now, Looper. Suppose we’ll simply drive all the way to Tuktoyaktuk and take a walk along the Arctic Ocean. Then we’ll have one last shot at conditions being better on the way back S.

Into the heart of the Arctic apocalypse then, SPSP?

Looks that way, Sweet Puppy.

The smoke was bad all the way through the Ogilvie Mountains. Lupe stared out the window as the RAV4 rolled past the sites of many terrific former adventures. Goldensides, Angelcomb, Surfbird, Peak 5262, Windy Pass Peak. In a thick haze, none of them bore the same appeal today. SPHP did stop for a little while at the bubbling pond several KM before Surfbird Mountain so the American Dingo could have a sniff.

At the **bubbling pond**. Photo looks E.

Lupe was already on the way down the N side of the range by the time SPHP was willing to stop for some scenic river views. Engineer Creek and its mineral-laden orange tan waters was first. When Sapper Hill (3,084 ft.) came into view, it wasn’t much farther to the Ogilvie River. All of the drought-stricken rivers and streams were running way lower than Lupe had ever seen them before.

By **Engineer Creek**, still the same orange tan color, but a mere shadow of its former self. Photo looks S.

Approaching **Sapper Hill** (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.

**Sapper Hill** (Center) from the **Ogilvie River bridge**. Photo looks ESE.

The Ogilvie River bridge goes right over the confluence with Engineer Creek, and provides an interesting view of the dramatic color contrast in the downstream direction before the waters mix. Lupe went out on the bridge for a look.

**Upstream view** of the **Ogilvie River**. Photo looks SW.

**Downstream view** right after **Engineer Creek** joins in from the R. Photo looks NNE.

Careful, Loopster, and stay close! Let’s be quick about this. Seems like there’s 5 or 10 times as much traffic as there used to be.

Everyone else is discovering the Dempster Highway, too, SPHP, ever since the all-season extension from Inuvik to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk.

I know it, Loop. Can’t blame them for coming, the views from the highway alone are an epic adventure!

True enough, when there isn’t an Arctic Apocalypse going on and you can actually see them, SPHP.

Yeah, that’s been the whole problem lately, hasn’t it, Looper?

Two young men were relaxing under the Ogilvie River bridge. SPHP had a chat with them.

**Sapper Hill** (Center & R) from the **Ogilvie River**. Photo looks E.

What did they say, SPHP?

They’re in the process of bicycling all the way to Tuktoyaktuk, Loop. Some people do such amazing things!

Not sure that’s such a great idea during an apocalypse, SPHP, even though we’re here, too.

Yeah, they were complaining about the never-ending smoke, Loopster. I can’t imagine how much particulate they must be inhaling. Can’t be good!

Leaving the mountains wasn’t helping. Churchward Hill was visible from the Elephant Rock rest area, a mere pullout along the Ogilvie River, but the Dempster Highway was all heat, dust, and smoke as the journey down the river valley continued.

**Churchward Hill** (Center) from the **Ogilvie River**. Photo looks NNE.

The **typical Dempster Highway Arctic apocalypse** view.

8-7-23, 8:11 PM. Dempster Highway KM 259 – Surprisingly, no one was around after the big climb along Seven Mile Hill when Lupe reached the Ogilvie Ridge rest area. Normally there was a grand view of the Ogilvie and Peel river valley, as well as the N side of the Ogilvie Mountains, from here. Nothing to be seen today except particulate.

Two ravens hoping for a handout provided amusement.

At the **Ogilvie Ridge viewpoint** and rest area.

Whatever you do, SPHP, don’t ask either of these ravens if we’ll ever see blue sky again. You know what they’ll say!

Indeed I do, Loopster. Not going to make that mistake!

With precious little to be seen here today other than the ravens and a few informational plaques on display, Lupe was soon on her way again.

Still time enough for a quick adventure today, Looper.

Really? What kind of adventure, SPHP?

The Ogilvie Ridge (3,048 ft.) high point is actually still some distance ahead. Won’t be long before we’ll be in that area. The Dempster Highway gets fairly close to the summit. Without much of an effort, we could tag it, just to say we’ve been there. What do you think?

Sounds good to me, SPHP. At least it’s something!

8-7-23, 8:40 PM, 74ºF – When a tower came into view on a nearby hill ahead, SPHP slowed down, looking for an access road on the L. Going around a bend, sure enough, there it was! SPHP parked the RAV4.

This is going to be even easier than I thought, Loop. Didn’t know that this would be a road hike.

Parked at the **start of the Ogilvie Ridge tower access road**. Photo looks NE.

Immediately upon setting out, the access road curved E, then continued that way for nearly a KM before making a sweeping 180º curve N and back around to the W. The microwave tower was once again in view ahead. The Ogilvie Ridge summit was, too, somewhat beyond it.

Heading up the access road. Photo looks E.

The **microwave tower** appears ahead. **Ogilvie Ridge summit** (R). Photo looks NW.

At the end of the access road, Lupe went around the fence enclosing the tower before heading NW across a brushy meadow toward the summit. Instead of a featureless, gently rounded dome, SPHP was surprised to see that Ogilvie Ridge’s summit sported some rock formations.

Approaching the **Ogilvie Ridge summit**. Photo looks NW.

A nice little scramble to the top. Photo looks WSW.

8-7-23, 9:05 PM, Ogilvie Ridge (3,048 ft.) – Three cairns were up here, the first one toward the SE, right where Lupe came up. The others sat next to each other a bit farther NW. The microwave tower was in view from any of them, as well as a decent-sized, flat, rocky summit plateau that extended a short distance N.

Due to the apocalypse, distant views were limited to the hazy outlines of hills a few miles away, or of nothing at all, depending on the direction.

The **microwave tower** from the **lone cairn**. Photo looks SE.

**Twin cairns** (Center) next to Lupe, **most of the summit plateau** (foreground), and the **best distant view** (L) under the circumstances. Photo looks NNW.

Congratulations, Loopster! May I shake your paw? Can’t be too many Dingoes that have ever stood on the Ogilvie Ridge summit.

Certainly, SPHP! And might I remind you that it’s chocolate coconut bar time?

Ogilvie Ridge is such an easy romp that I didn’t even bring the pack, Loop.

A chocolate coconut bar would have fit in your pocket, SPHP.

Disappointingly, an exploratory stroll about the summit plateau yielded no sign of the survey benchmark that was supposed to be up here. And that was about it for Ogilvie Ridge. After a brief stay, Lupe scrambled back down the same way she’d come up, and headed back to the road.

A look from above at the rock formations where Lupe came up. Taken from the lone cairn. Photo looks NE.

8-7-23, 11:08 PM, Ogilvie Ridge – The smoke was so terrible by the time the trip journal was caught up, how far away the wildfires of the Arctic apocalypse could actually be was a real question. Perhaps worryingly close. SPHP had spoken to quite a few people during the day. Like Lupe, everyone was going to Tuktoyaktuk, had been there already, or turned back before reaching Eagle Plains, because the smoke had been ghastly. Hard to know what tomorrow, or even tonight, would bring.

8-8-23, 6:23 AM, 62ºF, Ogilvie Ridge – Well, not much of a change so far. The smoke was still awful.

At least we didn’t burn to a crisp last night, Looper. I was beginning to wonder. Onward, Sweet Puppy?

Onward, SPHP!

During the long drive to Eagle Plains, the Dempster Highway stayed up on big rounded ridges connecting various high points along the way. It was a winding, up and down journey. SPHP actually had several more hills in mind for mid-apocalypse entertainment that the Carolina Dog could tag for some rare Yukon Territory peakbagging credit. These hills were all among the highest along their stretch of the highway.

8-8-23, 7:39 AM, 58ºF – First up was Aitch Hill (2,198 ft.), roughly 40 miles beyond the Ogilvie Ridge summit. Shortly before reaching where the Dempster Highway topped out only 0.25 mile S of Aitch’s summit, a nice roomy pullout appeared on the L.

Here, we go, Loopster! Perfect spot to stash the RAV4 during our romp.

About to set out for **Aitch Hill** on another lovely apocalypse morning. Photo looks ESE.

Taking advantage of the road, Lupe followed the Dempster Highway NE a short distance before climbing a small embankment and plunging NW into the boreal forest.

Following the Dempster Highway before venturing L into the forest. Photo looks NE.

Aitch Hill was a blast! The American Dingo had a fabulous time sniffing her way first NW, then NNE in search of the true summit through a maze of narrow open lanes between the trees and bushes. No human junk cluttering up the mountain here! Aitch Hill was still wild.

There wasn’t even a cairn when Lupe reached what seemed to be about the highest point in a vast, almost level, forested region. SPHP built one.

Lupe by her cairn at the **Aitch Hill true summit**, to the extent it could be determined. Photo looks ESE.

The point where Lupe’s new cairn sat was a little SW of where SPHP had guessed the location of the true summit when entering Aitch Hill into the Peakbagger.com database. Wandering NE, it was impossible to tell if this area was any higher. Might as well head back. Turning E in search of the highway, Lupe quickly reached the edge of a 20 foot depression.

Along the rim of the **Aitch Hill depression**. Photo looks SSE.

Staying on the high ground, the American Dingo followed the rim of the depression S until she could turn E again, soon reaching the Dempster Highway on top of a steep 20 foot high bank. Turning SW, Lupe followed this edge, too, until the bank shrank away enough to enable a road hike the rest of the way back to the RAV4.

8-8-23, 9:08 AM, 64ºF, Peak 815M (2,674 ft.) – After spotting another tower on a high point only 8 miles past Aitch Hill, SPHP made a L turn off the Dempster Highway onto a road that went 0.1 mile to where it split into 3 roads. Two of them led directly to a huge gravel highway maintenance yard. The third road angled uphill off to the R.

That must be the way to the tower we saw, Looper.

About to set off for **Peak 815M** via the **road seen at far R**. Photo looks N.

After a bit of steepness right at the start, Lupe followed the road’s gentle incline NE to where it hooked ESE the rest of the way to the tower at Peak 815M’s summit less than 0.5 mile from the RAV4.

The **microwave tower atop Peak 815M**. Photo looks SE.

Looks like the true summit is inside the fence, Loopster.

So it does, SPHP, and you know what? How much higher can it be than where we’re standing right now? A few feet at most. Close enough for Dingo work, I’m claiming it! Shake my paw, and we’re outta here!

8-8-23, 10:14 AM, 65ºF – The morning’s final peak was the best, and by far the most daring, Arctic apocalyptic experience of all. 11.5 miles past Peak 815M, SPHP turned L again onto a wide side road directly across the Dempster Highway from Corbett Hill’s NW slope.

Parked along the side road. **Dempster Highway** (L). Photo looks S.

Are you out of your mind, SPHP? It’s still on fire!

Just a little smoke, Loopster. We’re used to it by now, aren’t we?

Where there’s smoke there’s fire, SPHP! Let’s skip this one.

Eh, looks to me like the fire largely burnt itself out in the past few days, Looper. We’ll be fine. It’s only a little over 0.5 mile to the summit. Won’t take us long. If anything flares up at all, or if it gets breezy, we’ll come right back. Promise.

The American Dingo was leery, but followed SPHP up into the freshly charred forest.

Starting up **Corbett Hill’s NW slope**. Photo looks SE.

Lupe soon got used to the blackened tundra. Showers of brown needles fell off the trees whenever SPHP brushed up against them. Only parts of Corbett Hill had burned, leaving patches of both charred and untouched tundra and forest.

Exploring still smoldering **Corbett Hill**. Photo looks E.

Lupe passed several 6 to 8 foot deep pits, 20 feet wide and 40 feet long, dug by machinery for some unfathomable reason. There were no roads to them. More than halfway to the summit, she reached a big clearing.

The big clearing on the way to the summit. Photo looks SE.

If this doesn’t look like an Arctic apocalypse, I don’t know what does, SPHP!

Have to agree, Looper. Seems incredible, doesn’t it? Sure isn’t what the word “Arctic” typically brings to mind.

8-8-23, 10:43 AM, 65ºF, Corbett Hill (2,497 ft.) – Lupe rested comfortably on a patch of unburned tundra next to a metal tripod at the apparent true summit. A survey marker was centered directly below the tripod.

Congratulations, Loopster! Corbett Hill! Told ya we’d make it. Safe as a mouse in church.

Maybe so, SPHP. It’s certainly been an unusual adventure. Kind of freaked me out, but I don’t really mind it at all now. Still might be a good idea to head back soon, though.

Oh, we’re going to, Loop. Eagle Plains is only 3 miles from Corbett Hill. I’m looking forward to lunch at the Arctic Circle Restaurant. I’ll make sure you get a treat, too.

Well, what are we waiting for then? Onward! SPHP, ho!

8-8-23, 11:38 AM, 68ºF, Dempster Highway KM 369 – Eagle Plains was sure different from the other times Lupe had been here. Usually it was soaking wet and frigid, sometimes snowing hard and even threatening to become a blizzard. In these modern days of the Arctic apocalypse, though, Eagle Plains was smoky, warm, and dry.

After SPHP filled the RAV4 with fuel ($2.15 CAN per liter), Lupe got to go into the Eagle Plains Hotel with SPHP. She didn’t enter the restaurant, but got to meet some of the denizens in the lobby.

Outside the entrance to the **Arctic Circle Restaurant**.

SPHP did enter the restaurant. Had a Reuben sandwich and a Coke.

Entering the **Arctic Circle Restaurant**.

Prices were high, service was slow, portions were small, but everyone was friendly, and it was good! The Arctic Circle Restaurant and Eagle Plains Hotel were the only such services between Dawson City and Inuvik, an island of civilization in a truly vast wilderness. Lupe and SPHP were lucky to be here! (Note: Fuel is available from 2 automated stations at the start of the Dempster Highway.)

8-8-23, 12:58 PM, 71ºF, Eagle Plains – As promised, Lupe got her treat, a Dingo stick. A white dog outside the hotel got one, too.

Nice, but next time get me a Reuben sandwich, too, SPHP. What’s next on our apocalypse tour?

Only 35 KM to the Arctic Circle, Loopster. We’ll be there within the hour!