Days 19 & 20 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
8-23-19, 6:34 AM, 31ºF, 1.5 miles NNW of Glenn Highway MP 123.3 – After her tremendous exertions up on Syncline Mountain yesterday, Lupe had scarcely moved a muscle all night. She was up and about bright and early now, though, sniffing among the bushes while SPHP straightened up the G6.
Still smoky this morning, so no great rush. A leisurely breakfast (beef stew!) was prepared at the Gunsight Mountain trailhead (MP 118.5). SPHP was surprised when Loop only wanted her Taste of the Wild. After breakfast she snoozed through most of the scenic drive to Palmer, where the smoke proved to be worse than ever.
Not good. Plan A had been to climb one of several possible peaks in the Palmer area, but evidently that wasn’t going to happen. Maybe the air would be clearer closer to the ocean? Lots of great peaks in Chugach State Park!
SPHP drove all the way to Anchorage, but Plan B was a flop, too. The mountains were barely visible. The smoke was as bad here as in Palmer, if not worse. Drought and forest fires in Alaska! It seemed incredible. In prior years, it had been hard to find a day when it didn’t rain.
Stops for supplies, an oil change for the G6. Hours frittered away. What to do? No sense in hanging around, the smoke wasn’t going to go away unless it rained hard, or the wind shifted. Kenai Peninsula or inland? The Carolina Dog stated no preference. SPHP gambled on inland.
N of Wasilla, a lighted sign said “FIRE MP82-91 expect 3-4 hour delays”. Plan C was looking shaky, at best.
8-24-19, 8:44 AM, 46ºF, Little Coal Creek trailhead, Denali State Park – The lighted sign had either been hype, or outdated. Lupe had gotten through yesterday with only a single 30 minute delay. She’d seen some charred acreage right next to the Parks Highway, but no flames, no billowing smoke, no emergency. However, she’d arrived at Denali State Park too late to take on any big excursions.
A beautiful morning today, though! Blue skies and no sign of smoke at all. Wind must be blowing the right direction. Better take advantage of the situation while good fortune held. After a whole day of rest, the American Dingo was ready for action!
Expectations were high! A return to Denali State Park’s beloved K’esugi Ridge was on the agenda. The Little Coal Creek trail would get the Carolina Dog up there. Ultimate destination, an off-trail exploration of Peak4500!
The Little Coal Creek trail began as a nearly level trek in a ferny forest. Lupe trotted along watching for squirrels, with occasional success. A joyful start!
The trail crossed 2 small tributaries of Little Coal Creek. Both had plank bridges. The second stream, which was the biggest, drained a nearby pond.
After passing the pond, Lupe came to a first glimpse of the Little Coal Creek valley just S of the trail. Although she could hear it, the valley was so full of trees, Looper couldn’t see Little Coal Creek.
Lupe hadn’t gained much elevation yet, but the trail began to steepen as it veered away from Little Coal Creek. The upward pace was still easy to moderate. For quite a long way, trees and tall bushes hid all views.
Eventually things began to open up. Tantalizing glimpses of the Alaska Range beyond the Chulitna River valley appeared. SPHP tried to hurry, hoping to get high enough to see more before the sky could cloud up. Vegetation shrank. Loopster made it above treeline. Although clouds partially obscured the highest peaks, all the lower ones were on display. The views were already incredible!
Lupe had never enjoyed such a clear day on the way up to K’esugi Ridge before. As she kept going, even the summit of Denali(20,310 ft.), the highest mountain in North America, sometimes appeared.
As impressive as the Denali and the Alaska range were, the beauty of K’esugi Ridge was also stunning. The Little Coal Creek trail steepened considerably shortly before the American Dingo reached the tundra.
The 3.3 mile long Little Coal Creek trail formally ended soon after Lupe reached a region of gentler slopes near K’esugi Mountain(4,700 ft.). She was now on massive K’esugi Ridge, a world of tundra and rocks!
The end of the Little Coal Creek trail was a mere technicality. The trail actually kept going, but now as the K’esugi Ridge trail. Pass 3500 on the other side of the Little Coal Creek valley was now the next objective. Skirting along the base of K’esugi Mountain, the K’esugi Ridge trail headed right for it.
Although Lupe crossed the main channel of Little Coal Creek on the way to Pass 3500, she only saw minor tributaries. However, she did heard the main stream gurgling beneath a boulder field that slowed SPHP down considerably.
Upon reaching Pass 3500, Loopster again had a sweeping view of the Chulitna River valley and the Alaska Range. Ahead, the K’esugi Ridge trail gradually descended a broad, open slope leading to a level region W of K’esugi Mountain.
For more than a mile the K’esugi Ridge trail was wide, well-worn, and nearly flat. Lupe passed a couple of scenic small tarns.
1.5 miles from Pass 3500, a larger tarn appeared. Beyond it was the long ridge that leads up to Peak4500.
Lupe stuck with the K’esugi Ridge trail as she continued on beyond the big tarn. Before too long the trail crossed a stream. The American Dingo didn’t have much farther to go to reach the start of the long ridge to Peak4500.
Upon reaching the base of the ridge, Lupe abandoned the K’esugi Ridge trail. Turning S, she climbed a slope that grew rocky and steepened shortly before Loop made it up to the ridgeline.
Ahead a rumpled region of tundra and rock stretched away toward a series of higher benches. Most of the tundra was a mix of red and cream colors. Little bushes added a few splashes of yellow or orange. Greens were evident wherever the ground was damp. Fields of dark gray rocks covered the steeper slopes.
The terrain wasn’t particularly rough, and it was all, oh, so beautiful! This was going to be a fabulous exploration! Looper was in for a treat!
As SPHP picked a way higher, Lupe roamed the landscape. Alaska was suffering a drought. Instead of exhibiting its usual soft sponginess, the parched tundra crunched underpaw. Wherever possible, SPHP tried to stay on rocks to avoid unnecessary damage.
Eventually Lupe reached the upper end of this first region. Before her was a similar area that sloped more gently. Beyond this plain was a ridge more formidable than anything she’d come to so far. Off to the SW was a sweeping view of a lower part of K’esugi Ridge. Lupe could see both Peak3700 and Ermine Hill(2,700 ft.).
After crossing the gentle plain near the upper end of a moist area, Lupe started climbing toward the more formidable ridge. This region was steeper and rockier, but really wasn’t all that difficult. The slope was a long one, though. Soon the Carolina Dog was ready for water and a rest. SPHP didn’t mind in the least. The break felt so good, another one was taken shortly before reaching the top.
The top of the formidable ridge turned out not to be a top at all, just the end of the steepest part of the climb. A rocky region ahead led toward a big tundra-covered slope with a slightly higher ridge in view beyond it. Maybe that was the summit?
Near the edge of the tundra was a giant boulder, easily bigger than any other rock in the vicinity. Lupe leapt up onto it. From here she could see yet another ridge a little farther off that might even be higher than the one that wasn’t too far away now.
From the giant boulder, a short stroll on the tundra brought Lupe to a pancake flat plain. The more distant ridge did appear higher than the one now close at paw. The American Dingo headed for it.
The slopes leading up onto this second ridge were an easy trek. The top turned out to be a flattish, yet uneven region with 3 high points. The S high point was 20 feet lower than the other two, which were so close to being the same elevation it was hard to tell which might be highest.
No doubt about it! Lupe had made it to the summit of Peak4500. She arrived first at the Center high point where a thick, round stone sat amid similar boulders.
The NE high point 200 feet away was different. It consisted of a narrow ridge of much smaller rocks. Since the NE high point looked just as high as the Center one, to truly claim her peakbagging success Loop had to go over there, too. Beyond a steeper rocky slope, the American Dingo had a fabulous view of K’esugi West (4,600 ft.), K’esugi Mountain(4,700 ft.) and Indian Benchmark(4,558 ft.).
Having visited both the Center and NE high points, it was still difficult to say which might be the true summit. SPHP suspected the NE high point, but it was such a close call. The S high point was clearly out of the running, but having come so far, Loop visited it, too. She was rewarded with a sweeping view of the Susitna River valley.
Although not a difficult trek, getting to Peak4500 had been a long one. Now that she’d visited all 3 high points, Lupe was ready to relax. She returned to the Center high point with its scenic big boulders, selecting a comfy spot. 55ºF, a soft NE breeze. Surrounded by the glory of Alaska atop K’esugi Ridge’s Peak 4500, the Carolina Dog laid basking in the slanting rays of the late afternoon sun.
A perfect late summer day! Clouds drifted slowly by the gleaming white form of North America’s highest mountain. Who would ever want to leave?
Yet the moment came. 1.5 hours gone by since the American Dingo had arrived up on Peak 4500. Lupe was ready. Once again she stood poised atop the highest rocks.
Onward! Puppy ho!
Oh, there was more, so much more! The adventure wasn’t over yet!
Let’s do some exploring, Looper!
Batteries recharged, Lupe was all in favor of that! Returning to Peak 4500’s NE high point, she paused only briefly before starting down the rocky N slope.
After an initial 200 foot descent to the edge of a canyon NE of Peak 4500, Lupe traveled NNW along it. Near the end she came to a flat region as she approached a small dark rocky hill. From here Loop might easily have gone NE down a long slope to Pass 3900, the saddle between Peak 4500 and K’esugi West. However, off to the WNW at the far end of the flat region was an unusual rock formation.
Hey, SPHP! Let’s go check that out!
Leading the way across the flat region, the Carolina Dog soon came to the world famous (well, it is now!) “K’esugi Stonehenge”.
After a thorough investigation, Lupe tried to take a shortcut from K’esugi Stonehenge to Pass 3900 by going E around the N side of the small dark hill. Things quickly became a bit steep.
OK, more than “a bit”. SPHP did a magnificent poultry impression and chickened out. Loop wound up traveling back across the flat region to the easy way down to Pass 3900.
From Pass 3900, it looked like it might be possible to go right up the SW face to the top of K’esugi West. Unfortunately, there wasn’t time for that.
The rest was easy. Staying close to the base of K’esugi West for a little way, the American Dingo eventually headed down to a shallow pond that came into view, and continued NW beyond it.
And oh, what a happy time it was! Lupe explored and sniffed to her heart’s content, roaming seldom seen parts of beautiful K’esugi Ridge. An evening in Dingo Heaven!
Exactly 2 hours after leaving Peak 4500, Lupe reached the K’esugi Ridge trail again. The fun wasn’t over. Still 5 gorgeous miles to go back to the Little Coal Creek trailhead.
Who could ask for anything more? (End 11:06 PM, 42ºF)
What! How could that possibly be? It defied imagination. Yet, there it was.
In early April of 2018, Lupe had a new comment on her blog, a fairly rare occurrence. The comment was from a name that SPHP recognized from Peakbagger.com. From completely out of the blue, Steven Gruhn, an active mountaineer in Alaska, had made the comment. What Steven wrote was as astounding as it was unexpected:
Hi. I stumbled across your blog after noting Lupe’s ascents of Slope Mountain and Lake Benchmark Mountain on peakbagger.com. I try to keep track of the earliest recorded ascents of every peak in Alaska and I hadn’t known of ascents to the summits of either of those peaks. Did you notice any evidence of a prior ascent on either peak? I also try to help drum up reports of noteworthy ascents for publication in the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter, the Scree. Would you be willing to submit a trip report on your ascents of those two peaks for publication in the Scree?
The whole notion was astonishing! Had Lupe climbed 2 peaks in Alaska on her 2017 Dingo Vacation that no one else had ever been up, at least in recorded history? No, that wasn’t true. Slope Mountain(4,010 ft.) and Lake Benchmark Mountain(5,000 ft.) were the two northernmost peaks that Lupe had ever climbed, but there had been definite signs of prior ascents at both.
A little way W of the summit, Lupe had come to a survey benchmark on Lake Benchmark Mountain, and at the top of Slope Mountain there had been two cairns and a big tower. Still, it made SPHP smile to think that an experienced mountaineer from Alaska, who tracked such things, did think it within the realm of possibility that the Carolina Dog had actually been the first ever to climb one or both of these peaks.
Steven certainly deserved a response! SPHP sent an email thanking Mr. Gruhn for his comment, and then went on to explain the situation Lupe had found at each peak. Of course, Lupe would be tickled pink to submit trip reports for publication in the Scree. What a great honor it would be to have anything published in the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter!
However, did Steven still think that was appropriate? After all, SPHP didn’t believe for a minute that Lupe had been the first to scale either mountain. Furthermore, Lupe and SPHP aren’t real mountaineers by any stretch of the imagination. Self-glorified day hikers, at best. Anyone could climb Lake Benchmark Mountain or Slope Mountain. Neither was difficult. No special equipment or technical expertise required.
Gruhn responded almost immediately:
Despite the presence of human-placed objects on or near the summits, I’m still interested in reports on these two ascents. The benchmark west of the summit of Lake Benchmark Mountain was placed in 1971 by the USGS via helicopter, which landed at the benchmark site, so it’s quite possible that the geologists who placed it did not venture east from the helicopter landing site … Not all of the MCA members are hardcore mountaineers; many are hikers like yourself and I’d like the Scree to reflect all types of mountaineering from hardcore stuff to hiking and skiing.
Really? So maybe Lupe actually was the first to visit the summit of Lake Benchmark Mountain? The whole notion still seemed unbelievable, but who knows? What the heck? For the time being, the first ascent of Lake Benchmark Mountain could be Lupe’s claim to fame until someone came along with evidence to dispute it. As for supplying trip reports on both peaks for publication in the Scree, apparently it was a go, with Mr. Gruhn’s blessing! If the Mountaineering Club of Alaska was willing to consider publishing them, that was a tremendous honor the American Dingo had no intention of passing up!
During the process of submitting materials for the requested trip reports [actually condensed versions of original posts on The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe], SPHP emailed Mr. Gruhn asking if it was possible for Lupe to become an official member of the Mountaineering Club of Alaska? She was more than willing to fill out an application form and send in her dues.
Steven responded with the story of Henry Pinkham:
Your query reminds me of the tale of Bill Putnam, who later served as President of both the Harvard Mountaineering Club and the American Alpine Club. In his youth Putnam petitioned the American Alpine Club for membership for his dog, Henry Pinkham. At the time, applicants for membership had to be sponsored by another AAC member and had to complete a certain number of climbs in a multiple mountain ranges. Henry Pinkham had met all such requirements and even had a Canadian mountain named in his honor (Mount Sir Henry in the northern Selkirks). And as Putnam reasoned, the AAC had already added several SOBs to its membership rolls. Henry Pinkham was voted into membership, but before his name could be officially added to the membership roster, Putnam’s ruse was revealed and Henry Pinkham’s membership was revoked.
Well, shucks. Clearly the implication was that Lupe could not join the MCA unless she did so surreptitiously. It would be ungrateful, to say the least, to break the rules of an organization about to bestow a great honor upon her. So Lupe never has become a card carrying member of the Mountaineering Club of Alaska, though she would have liked to.
The Henry Pinkham tale was amusing! SPHP found another account of it on a thread on SuperTopo.com in memory of Bill Putnam following his demise in 2014. The following comment was made by “hamie”:
Bill Putnam’s attempt to trick the AAC into accepting his dog Henry Pinkham as a member is a well known story, and has already been mentioned. Less well known is how he fooled the Canadian Geographic Features Naming Committee [or whatever it is called].
Way back in 1950 he and his companions made the first ascent of several mountains near Fairy Meadows in the Northern Selkirks. He decided to call these mountains the Nobility Group, and name them after himself and his friends, along with giving themselves honorary knighthoods. The results were:
Mt. Sir William. [Putnam] Mt. Sir Andrew. [Kaufmann] Mt. Sir Henry. [Pinkham, his dog!!]
The naming board was duly impressed, the names became official, and were duly printed on subsequent maps. About 10 years ago the hoax finally reached bureaucratic ears, and I believe that the official names were all revoked. Amongst other reasons it is not permitted to name mountains after living people [or mess with the bureaucracy]. Hopefully the name Sir William will now be reinstated, as it is well deserved. Sir Henry? Less likely.
On a historical note a similar, but more devious hoax was perpetrated by Kruszyna when he named the Chess Group in the Rockies.
In the end, with Mr. Gruhn’s help, everything turned out great! Lupe did get published in the Scree. Not twice, but three times! For Steven Gruhn later asked about Peak3750 up on K’esugi Ridge in Denali State Park which Lupe had climbed on her 2018 Dingo Vacation to Alaska. More than happy to oblige, Loop submitted a trip report on it, too!
So there in the Scree, among all the stories by genuine mountaineers climbing some of the most challenging mighty peaks in Alaska with ropes, ice axes, crampons and all the rest, appears the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, with her tales of adventure on peaks that are simple strolls by comparison. Honors perhaps undeserved, but each a cherished memory which Lupe and SPHP will never forget.
Many thanks to Steven Gruhn for all his hard work and interest in making it possible for Lupe to appear in the SCREE, and to the Mountaineering Club of Alaska for accepting and publishing her submissions.
Days 31 & 32 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!
Morning 9-3-18 – Clear skies! If they would last, this was Lupe’s big chance! As SPHP drove N on George Parks Highway No. 3, the Carolina Dog’s luck was holding. Near midday she arrived at the Denali South Viewpoint (MP 135.2) in Denali State Park.
It was Labor Day, and the parking lot was nearly full. People and dogs all over the place! They had all come to see what Lupe and SPHP had come to see, too – that glorious, monstrous, white mountain, highest in all of North America – Denali(20,310 ft.)!
Loopster had seen Denali in the clear from a great distance in 2016. Yet, although she had been to Denali State Park in both 2016 and 2017, the American Dingo had never caught more than glimpses of tiny portions of the mountain from anywhere nearly this close before. Lower peaks had sometimes been in view, but Denali and all the other white giants of the Alaska Range had always been shrouded by clouds.
The first look at Denali from the viewing area near the parking lot was beautiful, but not the best one available. A 5 minute stroll along a wide path lined by trees and tall bushes brought Loopster to an even better viewpoint. Beyond the Chulitna River valley, there stood Denali, still nearly 40 miles away, gleaming white against the blue, blue sky. Denali was a thrilling sight!
While Denali was the star of the show, many other glorious peaks were on display, too. SPHP wasn’t certain of their names.
With teeming holiday crowds present, it was probably best not to linger too long. Still, it was hard to tear oneself away from Denali! Loop and SPHP hung around for 20 minutes before reluctantly moving on. SPHP drove a little farther N on George Parks Highway No. 3, stopping next at the Ermine Hill trailhead (MP 156.5).
Still early afternoon. What to do? On the one hand, seeing Denali from Ermine Hill(2,700 ft.) would be fantastic! Would take a few hours to get up there, but Lupe had time. On the other hand, Ermine Hill wasn’t the American Dingo’s only anticipated destination up on K’esugi Ridge.
Lupe had climbed Ermine Hill once before. In 2017, she had seen a considerably higher hill from the summit more than 3 miles off to the ENE. This was Peak3700, an unnamed high point. Peak 3700 had looked easy to climb, just a rounded hill at the far end of a long, gradual ridge. So Looper and SPHP had made an attempt on Peak 3700 that day. Lupe had made great progress, but was ultimately forced to retreat by an ominous cloud threatening rain.
Now Lupe was back! She had returned to Denali State Park not only to see Denali, but also to climb Peak 3700.
It was too late to get to both Ermine Hill and Peak 3700 today. Besides, Loop had spent the last 3 days in a row climbing mountains. Hadn’t she earned a day of rest? While tempting, the thought of climbing Ermine Hill right now to see Denali from on high also seemed exhausting. Loop intended to climb both Ermine Hill and Peak 3700 tomorrow, anyway. Provided the weather would hold for just another 24 hours, an ascent today was simply unnecessary.
Not a cloud in sight. Tomorrow seemed a reasonably safe bet. In the meantime, Looper could rest up. This evening she could go back to the Denali South Viewpoint to see the sunset. Such a nice, easy plan!
SPHP worked on catching up the trip journal. The Carolina Dog snoozed contentedly. After an hour or more, SPHP glanced up to see a single lane of traffic ground to a complete halt on the highway. Odd. The G6 was boxed in here at the Ermine Hill trailhead! Lupe couldn’t leave if she wanted to until the traffic cleared.
It didn’t clear. Nothing budged. Something was wrong. An accident? Perhaps a serious one? No one at all was getting through. Yet everyone seemed patient. No honking, yelling, or arm waving. None of that sort of thing.
Eventually, sirens confirmed it. Emergency vehicles appeared. Low flying helicopters woke Loop up, sending her into barking frenzies. Hours went by. SPHP finally stopped writing, and got out to stretch. Something dreadful must have happened. A man came over to chat. He was from North Pole near Fairbanks, on his way home with his family.
Word was that there had been a terrible tragedy, a fatal crash. The crash had occurred out of sight, but only 100 yards NE of the Ermine Hill trailhead. A car, pickup truck, and 2 motorcycles were involved. Of 5 people, 3 were dead, 2 more in critical condition. One was a little girl. Horrendous!
Not until 8:30 PM did the traffic start moving again. Slowly, one lane at a time, alternating directions. After 10:00 PM the first gaps appeared in the lines. By 11:00 PM it was over, the deadly highway dark and quiet. The end of a sorrowful, sobering evening.
9-4-18, 8:40 AM, 48°F – Ugh! Seriously? Tired or not, should have just done it, and gone with Lupe up to Ermine Hill yesterday afternoon. She could have seen Denali in the clear from that glorious vantage point then. Now blue skies were but a memory. Nearly the entire sky was overcast. Clouds hung so low, it was practically foggy out. So much for getting to see Denali again from on high. A lost opportunity.
Sorry, Looper! Guess I was a dope. Should have known. Alaska is the world champion at clouding up, as far as anywhere I’ve ever been goes.
We’re not going to Ermine Hill? Or Peak 3700?
Oh, yes, we are! At least it’s not raining out. Doesn’t seem like it’s going to either, not yet anyway. Might as well give it a whirl. It’s more or less now or never for Peak 3700, you know.
Let’s get going then! Maybe we’ll have some luck!
Lupe set out full of energy and enthusiasm! Having taken the Ermine Hill trail up onto fabulous K’esugi Ridge only a little over a year ago, it still seemed quite familiar. The trail started out gaining elevation gradually. Lupe passed through an area of tall grasses and colorful plants in a forest meadow.
The terrain flattened out. Before long Loop lost 200 feet of elevation on her way down to Byers Creek. The tippy bridge was still here, same as last year.
Beyond the tippy bridge came a forested area crowded with ferns. The trail was full of tree roots and mucky spots. It headed downstream past a wider, shallower section of Byers Creek before finally beginning to climb out of the valley.
Before Lupe had gained much elevation, a bridge over gushing Giardia Creek marked the start of a series of long switchbacks. The switchbacks made the climb up the steep lower slopes of K’esugi Ridge a snap for SPHP. Lupe enjoyed racing back and forth on them.
Higher up, K’esugi Ridge wasn’t as steep. The switchbacks came to an end. The trail turned SE climbing more directly up the slope.
The forest thinned as Lupe gained elevation. Ferns disappeared. Birch or aspen mixed in with the conifers. Before long only scattered conifers remained as tall bushes took over.
Eventually, Lupe came to a long slope covered with low bushes. The fall colors were incredible!
Looper left the Ermine Hill trail at the upper end of the colorful slope, shortly before it was about to disappear into tall bushes again.
In 2017, Lupe had stayed on the trail 0.5 mile farther before abandoning it to begin her search for the true summit of Ermine Hill. However, she had learned back then that it wasn’t necessary to stay on the trail for so long. The true summit was up on the very first big hill on the R (S). In fact, it appeared easier to get to the summit from here than it had been from farther along the trail.
The upper slopes of Ermine Hill consist of a crumbly whitish rock. Where vegetation was lacking and the exposed rock was at all steep, it was difficult for SPHP to maintain traction. Fortunately, there weren’t too many troublesome areas. Lupe had a great time exploring on the way up. She had no traction problems at all.
The lower slopes of Ermine Hill were the steepest. Once above them, a series of ramps and benches led higher. The flatter terrain up here was mostly covered with gorgeous tundra. Brilliant reds, oranges, golds and yellows were everywhere. Blueberries were abundant some places, too. SPHP would accept no criticism for the resulting slow pace of advance.
As Lupe neared the top of Ermine Hill, she spotted an oddly shaped rock ahead atop a minor ridge. SPHP dubbed it “Shark Fin Rock”.
Of course, the Carolina Dog went to check it out.
From Shark Fin Rock an easy 5 minute trek up loose white rock brought Loop to the top of the mountain. The whole summit area was awesome with all kinds of weird rock formations. A lovely level pedestal perfect for displaying a triumphant Carolina Dog comprised the true summit.
Yes, Lupe had returned to magnificent, gorgeous Ermine Hill(2,700 ft.)!
A few tiny patches of blue sky had been visible when Lupe had left the trailhead. Now there were none. Rain still didn’t look imminent, but it was easy to believe it might be on the way. Low gray clouds covered the sky. Farther S, though, sunshine could be seen on distant ridges.
Lupe had set out on the Ermine Hill trail full of energy and enthusiasm. However, by the time she had reached Shark Fin Rock, she had already been showing signs fatigue. SPHP was surprised, but perhaps Loopster hadn’t slept well last night? Sometimes she stays awake staring into the darkness for hours on end.
Whatever the reason, after a short initial re-exploration of Ermine Hill’s summit area, the Carolina Dog was done. She didn’t want food or water, simply to rest. No problem. It wasn’t even noon yet. Plenty of time left in the day. SPHP looked forward to relaxing and enjoying the fantastic views from Ermine Hill for a while, anyway.
Another rock outcropping almost as high as the true summit was a short distance to the NW. SPHP found a comfy spot to sit down there. Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap, heaved a great sigh, and closed her eyes. SPHP stroked her soft fur.
Ermine Hill is a terrific viewpoint! Sadly, but as anticipated, Denali and all the high peaks of the Alaska Range were obscured by clouds. Only the lower peaks and the Chulitna River valley were in view. Golog Benchmark(2,970 ft.) which Lupe had reached on a prior adventure on K’esugi Ridge in 2016 was in sight to the SW. And, of course, Peak 3700, which SPHP hoped and expected Loop would get to this very afternoon, was visible only a little over 3 miles to the ENE.
A serene and wonderful half hour drifted by. Finally, Lupe stirred. Good deal! A few more photos from the top of Ermine Hill and she would be on her way to Peak 3700!
Loop and SPHP set out for Peak 3700 heading SE. Having barely started, the American Dingo paused at the edge of the Ermine Hill summit area.
Ermine Hill(s) is actually plural. Maps show several hills in this region designated as such. The topo map shows 4 separate 2,700 foot contours. The contour farthest NW where Lupe was now clearly contained the true summit of the entire Ermine Hills region.
Ahead, Lupe could see some of the lower Ermine Hills. They were all made of the same crumbly white rock. At this time of year, the height of autumn on K’esugi Ridge, all of them were exquisitely beautiful. How fortunate to be here today! A rich tapestry of reds, whites, golds, grays, greens and yellows cloaked the Ermine Hills. They seemed so aptly named!
Peak 3700 was calling. SPHP started down. Lupe didn’t come. Instead, she gazed longingly back at Ermine Hill’s true summit. Was something wrong? Did she want to go back?
Yes, yes she did! Lupe did want to go back. Half an hour hadn’t been enough. The Carolina Dog was still tired.
Well, OK, why not? Lupe and SPHP returned to the true summit. For a while, Loop curled up on SPHP’s lap again. Eventually, she preferred the comfort of a hollow among the summit rocks. SPHP laid out a Columbia pullover and gray jacket for her. Oh, so cozy! Just what the Dingo had ordered! Weary Lupe closed her eyes and slept soundly.
SPHP had plenty of time to enjoy the views from Ermine Hill a while longer. Dead to the world, Lupe snored. She barely stirred. Good things started happening. The cloud cover was breaking up! Patches of blue sky began to appear. The sunlight made everything so much brighter and the colors more vibrant than before.
Early afternoon now. Such a fabulous day to climb Peak 3700! If only Looper would wake up!
More than an hour drifted by. Finally, Miss Sleepyhead stirred.
Welcome back to the land of the living, Sleeping Beauty!
Did I drift off?
Umm, yeah, sort of. Twice now, actually. So, how are you feeling? Still up for Peak 3700?
Oh, much better, thanks. Yes, let’s do this!
Lupe was much better, too! This Dingo nap had been the miracle cure for what ailed her. Suddenly she was full of energy again. The Carolina Dog leapt up onto Ermine Hill’s true summit once more.
The mood of the moment was certainly brighter and cheerier than had been the case a couple of hours ago when Lupe had first reached the top of Ermine Hill. For a few glorious moments, Lupe stood bathed in sunlight at the unique and beautiful true summit.
It was time to get serious about making some progress toward Peak 3700! While still mostly cloudy in that direction, the skies appeared to be clearing. Looper had better get on with it while conditions were so favorable!
The first order of business was to get back down to the Ermine Hill trail. Loop didn’t go down the same way she had come up. Instead she headed ESE off Ermine Hill, bypassing part of the trail.
The key to returning to the Ermine Hill trail efficiently was to avoid the dense stands of tall bushes which form a nearly impenetrable barrier in many places near the trail. Loop had great success. She found a route that wasn’t too steep and completely avoided the bushes.
Once on the Ermine Hill trail again, Lupe followed it toward the saddle beyond the E end of the lake. Here, she reached the junction with the K’esugi Ridge trail.
Upon reaching the junction, Lupe turned NE (L) on the K’esugi Ridge trail. The trail crossed a marsh in the broad saddle E of the lake. Lupe had to ford a small stream before the trail started uphill again.
After passing through stands of tall bushes, the trail became quite steep heading N up a ravine containing another small stream. Lupe regained much of the elevation she’d lost coming down off of Ermine Hill.
Leaving the ravine, the K’esugi Ridge trail leveled out heading NW along the base of a steep hillside. This area was also marshy. Stepping stones helped, but there weren’t enough of them. A wet, mucky trudge made SPHP vow to look for an alternative route on the return trip.
Beyond the marsh, a short side trail led W off to a viewpoint. Here Lupe enjoyed a sweeping panorama of the entire Ermine Hill region.
Returning to the K’esugi Ridge trail, Lupe headed NE climbing steadily. Soon she was high enough to see the long ridge leading to Peak 3700.
The K’esugi Ridge trail wouldn’t take Lupe to Peak 3700. No trail went that way. However, it would bring her to the W end of the ridge leading to it. Nearing this ridge, the trail dipped into a little valley where Lupe crossed a small stream. The trail then started up again, eventually leveling out as it curved around the W end of the ridge.
Before leaving the K’esugi Ridge trail to start for Peak3700, Lupe had another look back at Ermine Hill and the Chulitna River valley beyond it. She was clearly higher than Ermine Hill now.
Lupe was now about 1.5 miles from the junction with the Ermine Hill trail. Peak 3700 was 2 miles due E. Full of enthusiasm, Loop and SPHP left the K’esugi Ridge trail and began to climb.
The ridge leading to Peak 3700 was broad and strewn with countless rocks. Many rocks were covered with the thick, crunchy black lichens common in parts of Alaska. The pristine, trackless tundra was gorgeous. So many brilliant colors! So much exquisite detail!
It was an easy climb. Just wandering really, from one modest high point to the next. No tree or bush existed to block any of the tremendous views in all directions. Natural beauties were everywhere from the tiny to the vast.
Happy Lupe! So full of joy! She ran great distances, sometimes far from SPHP. She explored and sniffed. She was never gone too long, but came running back frequently. Her pink tongue dangled, her chest heaved. The Dingo’s eyes were bright and spoke of the wonders she was seeing and sensing all around.
SPHP fully shared Looper’s enthusiasm. Except for the clouds still hiding the mighty, but bashful Alaska Range, conditions were perfect. This trek was 10,000 delights, pure fun! The excitement grew as Lupe reached the area where she had been forced to turn back in 2017.
Not this time!
Lupe pressed on. Everything was going great! The American Dingo stayed on the high ground toward the N edge of the ridge. Gradually the tundra became more sparse. The way grew rockier. Lupe crossed one boulder field of white rocks. Nothing too steep or long or difficult.
Peak 3700 was farther than SPHP had believed in 2017, but Loop was getting there!
One more high point to go. Was this really the summit? Yes, it was!
Lupe made it up onto a rather long, rocky ridge 30 to 50 feet wide. This area wasn’t all rocks, there was tundra up here, too. The highest rocks were still a bit farther E. A quick, easy stroll and Lupe had done it! She was poised atop what appeared to be the highest rock on Peak3700.
Having hoped for this moment ever since Lupe had been forced to turn back in 2017, not knowing if she would ever return, SPHP was thrilled to congratulate Lupe on her grand success. Yet coming here had been so much fun both as a dream and as reality that SPHP felt a touch of sadness that the journey was over.
Well, it certainly had been a grand time, but Lupe wasn’t feeling sad. She was pooped! The Carolina Dog had burnt herself out again with all her enthusiastic exploratory exertions.
Fortunately, right next to the highest rock was a wonderfully convenient Dingo Shelter. It had a soft tundra floor, solid rock walls on 3 sides, and the highest rock on the mountain even overhung it to provide a partial roof. Looper took an immediate liking to it. She curled up there, while SPHP sat on the highest rock gazing out at all the wonders to be seen from Peak 3700 up on K’esugi Ridge.
Some of the most fascinating sights from Peak 3700 were of wonders only hinted at today. Although the afternoon had become mostly sunny over K’esugi Ridge, clouds still hid Denali and the Alaska Range. Every now and then, though, the clouds parted enough to offer tantalizing glimpses of mighty white peaks.
100 yards E of the highest rock, Peak 3700’s summit ridge dropped away sharply. After a short respite in the Dingo Shelter, Loopster decided to accompany SPHP toward that end of the ridge for a look at the Susitna River valley. Lupe could see a huge expanse of Alaskan wilderness.
Returning to the summit, SPHP realized that from a slightly different perspective, at least a couple of other rocks seemed to be in contention for the title of true summit. Lupe hopped up on a long skinny contender barely wide enough to balance upon.
Lupe had seen enough. Running all over mountains is exhausting work! Peak 3700 had a Dingo Shelter and the American Dingo fully intended to return to it! SPHP helped her get comfy. Loop eagerly accepted water and Taste of the Wild. Then, while SPHP sat only a few feet above her on the official highest rock, it was lights out for the Carolina Dog.
A glorious hour at the top of Peak 3700 slipped away. Lupe awakened, batteries freshly recharged. She sat for a few minutes with SPHP on the highest rock. The inevitable moment had arrived.
It was sad to leave Peak3700, but hours of fun remained. The return trip was a total blast! Downhill nearly the entire way, the American Dingo streaked across the seemingly endless, incredibly gorgeous tundra roaming far and wide, spectacular panoramas on all sides!
Oh, and did Lupe discover a way to avoid taking the K’esugi Ridge trail through the mucky upper marsh on the way back? She did! SPHP was happy to follow her on a detour up onto and along the top of the steep little hill next to the marsh.
It was dark when the Carolina Dog made it back to the G6 at the Ermine Hill trailhead, all tuckered out once more. What a fabulous day it had been, though! Lupe really had returned to K’esugi Ridge. She’d revisited beautiful Ermine Hill, and this time had actually made it to Peak 3700.
Not that any of it had been all that difficult. Quite the contrary! All it had taken was a little cooperation from the weather, and Lupe’s love of adventure. Of course, a few Dingo naps along the way hadn’t hurt a thing, either! (End 10:12 PM, 51°F)