Denali State Park – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

K’esugi Ridge: Little Coal Creek to Peak 4500, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-24-19)

Days 19 & 20 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-23-19, 6:34 AM, 31ºF, 1.5 miles NNW of Glenn Highway MP 123.3 – After her tremendous exertions up on Syncline Mountain yesterday, Lupe had scarcely moved a muscle all night. She was up and about bright and early now, though, sniffing among the bushes while SPHP straightened up the G6.

Still smoky this morning, so no great rush. A leisurely breakfast (beef stew!) was prepared at the Gunsight Mountain trailhead (MP 118.5). SPHP was surprised when Loop only wanted her Taste of the Wild. After breakfast she snoozed through most of the scenic drive to Palmer, where the smoke proved to be worse than ever.

Not good. Plan A had been to climb one of several possible peaks in the Palmer area, but evidently that wasn’t going to happen. Maybe the air would be clearer closer to the ocean? Lots of great peaks in Chugach State Park!

SPHP drove all the way to Anchorage, but Plan B was a flop, too. The mountains were barely visible. The smoke was as bad here as in Palmer, if not worse. Drought and forest fires in Alaska! It seemed incredible. In prior years, it had been hard to find a day when it didn’t rain.

Stops for supplies, an oil change for the G6. Hours frittered away. What to do? No sense in hanging around, the smoke wasn’t going to go away unless it rained hard, or the wind shifted. Kenai Peninsula or inland? The Carolina Dog stated no preference. SPHP gambled on inland.

N of Wasilla, a lighted sign said “FIRE MP82-91 expect 3-4 hour delays”. Plan C was looking shaky, at best.

8-24-19, 8:44 AM, 46ºF, Little Coal Creek trailhead, Denali State Park – The lighted sign had either been hype, or outdated. Lupe had gotten through yesterday with only a single 30 minute delay. She’d seen some charred acreage right next to the Parks Highway, but no flames, no billowing smoke, no emergency. However, she’d arrived at Denali State Park too late to take on any big excursions.

A beautiful morning today, though! Blue skies and no sign of smoke at all. Wind must be blowing the right direction. Better take advantage of the situation while good fortune held. After a whole day of rest, the American Dingo was ready for action!

The Little Coal Creek trailhead is at Parks Highway MP 163.9 in Denali State Park.

The trailhead parking lot. Look at those blue skies! Going to be a fabulous day!

Expectations were high! A return to Denali State Park’s beloved K’esugi Ridge was on the agenda. The Little Coal Creek trail would get the Carolina Dog up there. Ultimate destination, an off-trail exploration of Peak 4500!

The Little Coal Creek trail began as a nearly level trek in a ferny forest. Lupe trotted along watching for squirrels, with occasional success. A joyful start!

Setting out on the **Little Coal Creek trail**.

Sending telepathic waves inviting squirrel down for breakfast.

The trail crossed 2 small tributaries of Little Coal Creek. Both had plank bridges. The second stream, which was the biggest, drained a nearby pond.

Only SPHP made use of the plank bridges.

A look back at the pond after crossing the stream. Photo looks NE.

After passing the pond, Lupe came to a first glimpse of the Little Coal Creek valley just S of the trail. Although she could hear it, the valley was so full of trees, Looper couldn’t see Little Coal Creek.

First glimpse of the **Little Coal Creek valley**. Photo looks SW.

Lupe hadn’t gained much elevation yet, but the trail began to steepen as it veered away from Little Coal Creek. The upward pace was still easy to moderate. For quite a long way, trees and tall bushes hid all views.

Eventually things began to open up. Tantalizing glimpses of the Alaska Range beyond the Chulitna River valley appeared. SPHP tried to hurry, hoping to get high enough to see more before the sky could cloud up. Vegetation shrank. Loopster made it above treeline. Although clouds partially obscured the highest peaks, all the lower ones were on display. The views were already incredible!

Getting close to treeline. Photo looks ENE.

The **Alaska Range** beyond the **Chulitna River valley**. Photo looks NW.

**Eldridge Glacier**. Photo looks NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe had never enjoyed such a clear day on the way up to K’esugi Ridge before. As she kept going, even the summit of Denali (20,310 ft.), the highest mountain in North America, sometimes appeared.

One of the best views up the **Little Coal Creek valley**. Photo looks SE.

**Denali** (Center) appears! Photo looks NW.

**Denali** with help from the telephoto lens – a mountain among mountains!

As impressive as the Denali and the Alaska range were, the beauty of K’esugi Ridge was also stunning. The Little Coal Creek trail steepened considerably shortly before the American Dingo reached the tundra.

*It’s all so magnificent!* Photo looks NE.

The trail steepens. **K’esugi Mountain (4,700 ft.)** (Center). **Little Coal Creek valley** (R). Photo looks S.

Near the end of the Little Coal Creek trail up on **K’esugi Ridge**. **Indian Benchmark (4,558 ft.)** (R). Photo looks SE.

**Denali** (Center) & the **Eldridge Glacier** (R) beyond the **Chulitna River**. Photo looks NW.

The 3.3 mile long Little Coal Creek trail formally ended soon after Lupe reached a region of gentler slopes near K’esugi Mountain (4,700 ft.). She was now on massive K’esugi Ridge, a world of tundra and rocks!

The end of the Little Coal Creek trail was a mere technicality. The trail actually kept going, but now as the K’esugi Ridge trail. Pass 3500 on the other side of the Little Coal Creek valley was now the next objective. Skirting along the base of K’esugi Mountain, the K’esugi Ridge trail headed right for it.

The **Little Coal Creek trail** formally ends right along in here, but continues on as the **K’esugi Ridge** trail toward the saddle seen on the R. **K’esugi Mountain** (L) and **upper Little Coal Creek valley** (R). Photo looks SW.

Although Lupe crossed the main channel of Little Coal Creek on the way to Pass 3500, she only saw minor tributaries. However, she did heard the main stream gurgling beneath a boulder field that slowed SPHP down considerably.

Our next mission, should you choose to accept it, is to get up to **Pass 3500** (L). Photo looks W overlooking the **upper Little Coal Creek valley**.

Approaching the boulder field at the **base of K’esugi Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

Looking back after crossing Little Coal Creek. Photo looks NE.

Heading for **Pass 3500**. The K’esugi Ridge trail goes over it toward the R. Photo looks W.

Upon reaching Pass 3500, Loopster again had a sweeping view of the Chulitna River valley and the Alaska Range. Ahead, the K’esugi Ridge trail gradually descended a broad, open slope leading to a level region W of K’esugi Mountain.

**Chulitna River** from **Pass 3500**. Photo looks W.

**K’esugi Ridge trail** W of Pass 3500. Photo looks W.

Glancing back at **Pass 3500** (L). **K’esugi Mountain** (R). Photo looks E.

The trail levels out a mile W of K’esugi Mountain. Photo looks WSW.

For more than a mile the K’esugi Ridge trail was wide, well-worn, and nearly flat. Lupe passed a couple of scenic small tarns.

Near one of the tarns the trail went by. Photo looks W.

Tremendous views of the **Alaska Range** were constantly on display from the K’esugi Ridge trail. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

1.5 miles from Pass 3500, a larger tarn appeared. Beyond it was the long ridge that leads up to Peak 4500.

Approaching the larger tarn. Photo looks SW.

The ridge beyond this tarn leads to Peak 4500. Photo looks S.

Glancing back. **Pass 3500** (far L). **K’esugi West (4,600 ft.)** (R). Photo looks E.

**K’esugi West (4,600 ft.)** (Center) beyond the same tarn. Photo looks SE.

**Chulitna River valley** & the **Alaska Range** from the K’esugi Ridge trail. Photo looks W.

Lupe stuck with the K’esugi Ridge trail as she continued on beyond the big tarn. Before too long the trail crossed a stream. The American Dingo didn’t have much farther to go to reach the start of the long ridge to Peak 4500.

Crossing the stream 0.25 mile beyond the big tarn. The ridge to Peak 4500 is in the background. Photo looks S.

At the **NW end of Peak 4500** about to leave the K’esugi Ridge trail. Photo looks S.

Upon reaching the base of the ridge, Lupe abandoned the K’esugi Ridge trail. Turning S, she climbed a slope that grew rocky and steepened shortly before Loop made it up to the ridgeline.

Ahead a rumpled region of tundra and rock stretched away toward a series of higher benches. Most of the tundra was a mix of red and cream colors. Little bushes added a few splashes of yellow or orange. Greens were evident wherever the ground was damp. Fields of dark gray rocks covered the steeper slopes.

The terrain wasn’t particularly rough, and it was all, oh, so beautiful! This was going to be a fabulous exploration! Looper was in for a treat!

Up on the ridge, the search for Peak 4500 begins! Photo looks SE.

As SPHP picked a way higher, Lupe roamed the landscape. Alaska was suffering a drought. Instead of exhibiting its usual soft sponginess, the parched tundra crunched underpaw. Wherever possible, SPHP tried to stay on rocks to avoid unnecessary damage.

Eventually Lupe reached the upper end of this first region. Before her was a similar area that sloped more gently. Beyond this plain was a ridge more formidable than anything she’d come to so far. Off to the SW was a sweeping view of a lower part of K’esugi Ridge. Lupe could see both Peak 3700 and Ermine Hill (2,700 ft.).

Crossing the plain leading to a more challenging ridge (R). **K’esugi West** (L). Photo looks E.

**K’esugi Ridge** is 2 miles wide and tens of miles long. **Peak 3700** (L). **Ermine Hill** (R) is the closest bump seen near **Byers Lake** (far R). Photo looks SW.

After crossing the gentle plain near the upper end of a moist area, Lupe started climbing toward the more formidable ridge. This region was steeper and rockier, but really wasn’t all that difficult. The slope was a long one, though. Soon the Carolina Dog was ready for water and a rest. SPHP didn’t mind in the least. The break felt so good, another one was taken shortly before reaching the top.

*Not bad at all, but still a long way!* Photo looks S.

Taking it easy with a view of the **Alaska Range**. **Eldridge Glacier** (L). Photo looks NNW.

Two rest breaks are twice as nice as one! Photo looks SSE.

The top of the formidable ridge turned out not to be a top at all, just the end of the steepest part of the climb. A rocky region ahead led toward a big tundra-covered slope with a slightly higher ridge in view beyond it. Maybe that was the summit?

Above the formidable ridge now. Is that the summit (Center) ahead? Photo looks SSE.

Glancing over at **K’esugi West** (Center). Photo looks NE.

Near the edge of the tundra was a giant boulder, easily bigger than any other rock in the vicinity. Lupe leapt up onto it. From here she could see yet another ridge a little farther off that might even be higher than the one that wasn’t too far away now.

On the enormous boulder, with yet another ridge (L) now in sight. Photo looks SE.

From the giant boulder, a short stroll on the tundra brought Lupe to a pancake flat plain. The more distant ridge did appear higher than the one now close at paw. The American Dingo headed for it.

On “**Pancake Plain”** heading for the more distant ridge (L). Photo looks SE.

Approaching the once more distant ridge. Photo looks SE.

The **Alaska Range** from Pancake Plain. Photo looks NW.

*We’ve got to be getting close now!* Photo looks S.

The slopes leading up onto this second ridge were an easy trek. The top turned out to be a flattish, yet uneven region with 3 high points. The S high point was 20 feet lower than the other two, which were so close to being the same elevation it was hard to tell which might be highest.

**Peak 4500’s summit region**. **NE high point** (Center) and **Center high point** (R). Photo looks SE.

No doubt about it! Lupe had made it to the summit of Peak 4500. She arrived first at the Center high point where a thick, round stone sat amid similar boulders.

On the **highest rock at the Center high point**. **Peak 3700** (Center) beyond Loop. Photo looks SW.

On **Peak 4500’s Center high point**. Photo looks SE.

The **Alaska Range** from Peak 4500. Photo looks NW.

**Denali** from Peak 4500. Photo looks NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

The NE high point 200 feet away was different. It consisted of a narrow ridge of much smaller rocks. Since the NE high point looked just as high as the Center one, to truly claim her peakbagging success Loop had to go over there, too. Beyond a steeper rocky slope, the American Dingo had a fabulous view of K’esugi West (4,600 ft.), K’esugi Mountain (4,700 ft.) and Indian Benchmark (4,558 ft.).

**K’esugi West** (L) and **Peak 4500’s NE High Point** (R). Photo looks NE.

At the **NE high point**. **K’esugi West** (Center) & **K’esugi Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

**K’esugi West** (L), **K’esugi Mountain** (Center) and **Indian Benchmark** (R) from Peak 4500. Photo looks NE.

Peering down **Peak 4500’s N slope**. **K’esugi West** (R). Photo looks N.

The **Center high point** (Center) from **Peak 4500’s NE high point**. Photo looks WSW.

Having visited both the Center and NE high points, it was still difficult to say which might be the true summit. SPHP suspected the NE high point, but it was such a close call. The S high point was clearly out of the running, but having come so far, Loop visited it, too. She was rewarded with a sweeping view of the Susitna River valley.

The **Susitna River valley** from the **S high point**. Photo looks S.

**Center high point** (Center) and the **NE high point** (R) from the **S high point**. The Center high point is about 600 feet away. Photo looks N.

**K’esugi West** (L), **K’esugi Mountain** (Center) and **Indian Benchmark** (R) from the **S high point**. Photo looks NE.

**Lake 1395** (Center) and the **Susitna River** (R). Photo looks E.

Although not a difficult trek, getting to Peak 4500 had been a long one. Now that she’d visited all 3 high points, Lupe was ready to relax. She returned to the Center high point with its scenic big boulders, selecting a comfy spot. 55ºF, a soft NE breeze. Surrounded by the glory of Alaska atop K’esugi Ridge’s Peak 4500, the Carolina Dog laid basking in the slanting rays of the late afternoon sun.

Dozing on **Peak 4500**. Photo looks WSW.

A perfect late summer day! Clouds drifted slowly by the gleaming white form of North America’s highest mountain. Who would ever want to leave?

**Denali**, formerly **Mount McKinley**. Photo looks NW.

Yet the moment came. 1.5 hours gone by since the American Dingo had arrived up on Peak 4500. Lupe was ready. Once again she stood poised atop the highest rocks.

**Eldridge Glacier** (R) from the Center high point. Photo looks NW.

Onward! Puppy ho!

Oh, there was more, so much more! The adventure wasn’t over yet!

Let’s do some exploring, Looper!

Batteries recharged, Lupe was all in favor of that! Returning to Peak 4500’s NE high point, she paused only briefly before starting down the rocky N slope.

Leaving Peak 4500. After reaching the edge of the canyon seen below, Loop traveled along it to the **small dark hill** at far L. Photo looks NE.

Near the canyon S of **K’esugi West**. Lupe traveled L along the edge from here. Photo looks N.

A better view of the canyon. Photo looks NE.

After an initial 200 foot descent to the edge of a canyon NE of Peak 4500, Lupe traveled NNW along it. Near the end she came to a flat region as she approached a small dark rocky hill. From here Loop might easily have gone NE down a long slope to Pass 3900, the saddle between Peak 4500 and K’esugi West. However, off to the WNW at the far end of the flat region was an unusual rock formation.

Approaching the **small dark hill** (L). From here Lupe first explored the flat region to the L before returning to head down the slope on the R to **Pass 3900**. Photo looks N.

Hey, SPHP! Let’s go check that out!

Leading the way across the flat region, the Carolina Dog soon came to the world famous (well, it is now!) “K’esugi Stonehenge”.

Approaching **“K’esugi Stonehenge”**. Photo looks NW.

**Peak 4500** from **K’esugi Stonehenge**. Photo looks S.

After a thorough investigation, Lupe tried to take a shortcut from K’esugi Stonehenge to Pass 3900 by going E around the N side of the small dark hill. Things quickly became a bit steep.

*This way, SPHP! What do you mean by “you’re not coming”?* Photo looks NNE.

*Eh, maybe not that way either, Looper.* Photo looks NW.

OK, more than “a bit”. SPHP did a magnificent poultry impression and chickened out. Loop wound up traveling back across the flat region to the easy way down to Pass 3900.

*Think you can manage this, SPHP? …. Yes, much better!* **Pass 3900** (R).

From Pass 3900, it looked like it might be possible to go right up the SW face to the top of K’esugi West. Unfortunately, there wasn’t time for that.

**K’esugi West** from **Pass 3900**. Doesn’t look that hard to go up from the L, does it? Photo looks NE.

The rest was easy. Staying close to the base of K’esugi West for a little way, the American Dingo eventually headed down to a shallow pond that came into view, and continued NW beyond it.

Descending from Pass 3900. The ridge in the background is the one that led up to Peak 4500 during the ascent. Photo looks WNW.

Skirting the **base of K’esugi West** (R). Photo looks NNE.

Glancing back. A small slice of Peak 4500’s summit (L) is still in view. Photo looks S.

And oh, what a happy time it was! Lupe explored and sniffed to her heart’s content, roaming seldom seen parts of beautiful K’esugi Ridge. An evening in Dingo Heaven!

Heading for the shallow pond. Loop eventually passed through the gap beyond it. Photo looks NW.

The valley beyond the shallow pond. Photo looks NW.

Exactly 2 hours after leaving Peak 4500, Lupe reached the K’esugi Ridge trail again. The fun wasn’t over. Still 5 gorgeous miles to go back to the Little Coal Creek trailhead.

On the **K’esugi Ridge trail** again. **Pass 3500** (Center). Photo looks NE.

Who could ask for anything more? (End 11:06 PM, 42ºF)

**Peak 4500**, K’esugi Ridge, Denali State Park, Alaska 8-24-19

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Denali State Park

K’esugi Ridge Trail System North

K’esugi Ridge: Indian Benchmark & K’esugi Mountain, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-18-16)

K’esugi Ridge: Whimbrel Hill & the Golog Benchmark, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-19-16)

K’esugi Ridge: Ermine Hill, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-26-17)

K’esugi Ridge: Ermine Hill & Peak 3700, Denali State Park, Alaska (9-4-18)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Denali to Skagway – On the Road Again, Looking for Fun! (9-5-18 to 9-7-18)

Days 33-35 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

9-5-18, 8:04 AM, 39°F, Denali State Park – Blue skies! An encouraging start. Maybe today was the big day when Lupe would finally get to climb Reindeer Hills (5,102 ft.)? Warming the G6 up a bit, SPHP drove NE on George Parks Highway No. 3. During a quick stop at the Little Coal Creek trailhead (MP 163.9), Lupe stretched and sniffed around, while SPHP got ready for the Reindeer Hills.

A mile back, SPHP had driven past the Denali North viewpoint. Better check that out before continuing on to the Reindeer Hills!

The Denali N viewpoint is at MP 162.9 of George Parks Highway No. 3. The Denali S viewpoint is at MP 135.2. Lupe had been to the S viewpoint a couple of days ago.

Any day an American Dingo gets to see Denali (20,310 ft.) is a great one! Lupe had been to Denali State Park in both 2016 and 2017, but apart from a couple of brief partial glimpses, the highest mountain in North America had always remained hidden among the clouds.

However, today was a great day! Gleaming white against the blue sky, Denali was out in the open, along with a host of other mighty peaks of the Alaska Range.

**Denali** looms far beyond mountains on the NW side of the Chulitna River valley. Photo looks WNW.

Jagged peaks of the **Alaska Range**. Photo looks WNW.

Incredible snowy peaks like these were mere foothills compared to Denali.

Lupe had already seen Denali from the South viewpoint a couple of days ago. SPHP was of the opinion that the S viewpoint actually provided a better look at the monstrous mountain.

However, on the way to the Reindeer Hills, well out of Denali State Park along George Parks Highway No. 3, Lupe had even better views of Denali right from the highway. Far more of the frozen giant was in sight. Even from 45 miles away, the towering height and sheer massiveness of the world’s coldest mountain outside of Antarctica was incredible to behold!

**Denali** from George Parks Highway No. 3 NE of Denali State Park. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Approaching Cantwell, the Reindeer Hills came into sight, mere blips in comparison with Denali, but nevertheless, an exciting and challenging peakbagging prospect for Lupe and SPHP.

Approaching the **Reindeer Hills**. Photo looks NE.

The key question was how to access the Reindeer Hills (5,102 ft.)? At Cantwell, SPHP turned E on Denali Highway No. 8, which soon turned to gravel. The high point of the Reindeer Hills is only a couple of miles N of the highway 6 or 7 miles E of Cantwell. However, all through this area, the road stayed S of a heavily forested creek drainage.

Loop would have to battle through a lengthy stretch of trackless forest and bogs, crossing the unseen stream somewhere along the way, before reaching the lower slopes of the Reindeer Hills. The prospect seemed daunting. 8 miles from Cantwell, SPHP parked the G6 by a lovely little lake on the S side of the highway. Lupe got out for a look around, while SPHP paused to consider her options.

By the lovely pond 8 miles E of Cantwell. Photo looks SW.

Gazing at the Reindeer Hills high point, the mountain looked like an easy climb, if only Lupe could get to it!

**Reindeer Hills** high point from the parking area by the little lake. Photo looks NW.

Pondering the situation, getting across the hidden stream seemed to be the crucial issue. The topo map showed the creek being closest to the highway a couple of miles back W where it joined a tributary of the Jack River. W was sort of bad, though, because that was in the downstream direction. Even before reaching the Jack River tributary, the stream would be bigger. On the other paw, the stream was so close to the road there, it wouldn’t take Loop long to get to it. She would find out very quickly if fording the creek was realistic or not.

May as well give it a shot! SPHP drove back to the tributary of the Jack River, parking the G6 at a pullout on the SE side of the highway just N of the tributary. Full of enthusiasm, the American Dingo hopped out to give it a go. (9-5-18, 11:52 AM, 51°F)

Looking down the **tributary of the Jack River** right after it flows under Denali Highway No. 8. Photo looks WNW.

The **Reindeer Hills** high point (R of Center) from S of the **tributary of the Jack River**. The stream Looper needed to get across is hidden in the lowlands beyond her on the far side of the tributary. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe and SPHP headed N from the highway into a flat region densely covered with bushes. The bushes were only a few feet high, but to Lupe, they formed practically an impenetrable jungle. Although this area looked flat, before she made it very far, the terrain was pockmarked with holes full of water 2 or 3 feet deep. Nevertheless, Loop managed to thrash through it all until she was roughly 300 feet from the highway, where she reached the S bank of the stream she needed to cross.

The stream was only a few feet wide, but fast-flowing. The water was easily over Lupe’s head and SPHP’s knees, and perhaps deeper than that. Hard to tell. The tightly packed bushes along both banks made the prospect of getting into or out of the stream look troublesome at best.

SPHP didn’t like it. Lupe might easily get swept downstream out of sight in the frigid waters of the powerful current. Unable to touch bottom, what if she couldn’t escape the deep narrow channel? SPHP wouldn’t be able to get to her in time to help her.

No, not worth it. Maybe the confluence of this stream and the tributary of the Jack River would be an easier spot to cross?

Trying to get the confluence, Lupe fell into one of the waterholes among the bushes. She managed to scramble out, cold and wet, but didn’t care for the experience. Loopster wanted to head back to the highway. She did, too. All by herself. SPHP could explore this morass alone!

SPHP had to plead with Looper to give it one more try. Reluctantly, she did, but the confluence of the streams presented no better opportunity to cross. Alright, forget about it! Not happening! The Carolina Dog was plenty happy to return to the G6. (9-5-18, 12:21 AM, 51°F)

Much closer to Cantwell, a couple more possibilities were checked out where Lupe wouldn’t have had to cross any streams. However, potential private property issues cropped up. This area was miles from the high point of the Reindeer Hills, anyway. Already afternoon, and too late in the day to consider an attempt, even if clean access had been found.

No Reindeer Hills! Most disappointing. What to do? Seemed terrible to waste the rest of such a beautiful day, but after Loopster’s big trek up to Ermine Hill (2,700 ft.) and Peak 3700 on K’esugi Ridge yesterday, maybe a day of rest was a good thing. The plan became to drive back to Palmer, where Loop could take on Matanuska Peak (6093 ft.) tomorrow.

**Denali** again from George Parks Highway No. 3 in the afternoon. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Another look with even more help from the telephoto lens.

9-5-18, 7:57 PM, Wasilla – Not even 8:00 PM, yet the sun hung low in the W. The days were noticeably shorter now than a few weeks ago when the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood had returned to the far N. Kind of sad. Lupe’s time in Alaska was running out.

9-6-18, 6:50 AM, Palmer – Surprisingly dark. Only partially due to the changing season, though. The sky was all a depressing gray. The pointy summit of Matanuska Peak (6,093 ft.) was in view beneath the clouds, but perhaps not for much longer. Within 10 minutes, a light rain set in. Too bad.

Might as well face it. Matanuska Peak wasn’t going to happen for Lupe, either. Suddenly it was clear that the long road home had already begun when the Carolina Dog left the Reindeer Hills behind yesterday. After stops at Fred Meyer’s for groceries and fuel, SPHP drove out of Palmer heading E on the Glenn Highway. Lupe stared out the window of the G6 as the windshield wipers slapped away the rain, and the miles rolled by.

More than 3,000 miles to go! Lupe’s adventures on this Dingo Vacation weren’t over yet. She still had time, extra days she could spend along the way. Surely, fabulous mountains were still to come. A little cooperation from the weather was all it would take. The American Dingo was merely on the road again, looking for fun!

9-6-18, 10:15 AM, 41°F, Gunsight Mountain trailhead – Forgetting about Matanuska Peak had been the right thing to do. By the time Lupe made it to Gunsight Mountain (6,441 ft.), all was mist and fog.

At the Gunsight Mountain trailhead, MP 118.5 of the Glenn Highway.

Loopster had already climbed Gunsight Mountain in 2016, but nearby Syncline Mountain (5,471 ft.) was of interest, too. Not for today, but in the hope that Lupe might return to Alaska someday, SPHP wanted to check out the Syncline Mountain access situation. A map at the Gunsight Mountain trailhead showed possible access from Belanger Pass.

Map posted at the Gunsight Mountain trailhead.

Some sort of route to Belanger Pass left the Glenn Highway at MP 123.3, only 5 miles E of here. Since it was on the way, Lupe and SPHP went to check it out.

At MP 123.3, a decent road left the N side of the highway. SPHP drove a couple of miles along it before deciding to turn around at a giant mud hole that covered most of the road. On the way out, a man was outside working on a deck for his summer home. Lupe and SPHP stopped to chat with him. He said the G6 could make it to a parking area about 3.5 miles shy of Belanger Pass. A 4WD road went over the pass and 40 miles beyond it.

Interesting, and hopefully helpful on some future date. SPHP thanked him for the information. Lupe and SPHP then went on, but not before getting a photo of the spiffy sign this guy had posted along the road not far from his driveway.

On the road to Belanger Pass. **Syncline Mountain** is the long ridge in the fog. Easily amused, SPHP liked the sign. Photo looks NW.

9-6-18, 1:07 PM, 50°F, Copper River overlook – The journey E continued. The miles rolled by. Lupe didn’t escape the G6 again until she was at the Copper River overlook one mile E of Gakona Junction along the Tok Cut-off. The sky remained dull and gray, but the rain and mist were over.

At the **Copper River** overlook a mile E of Gakona Junction.

Lupe and SPHP had often stopped here to see the magnificent view of the Copper River, but had always gone on after a few minutes. Having been cooped up in the G6 for most of a day and a half, though, Loop was anxious for action. A dirt road headed down into the river valley. Never explored it before. Maybe Lupe would enjoy a little romp to see what was down there?

Oh, yes! Lupe heartily approved of this plan. She raced ahead going back and forth checking trees for squirrels.

The road leading down from the bluffs to the Copper River.

After losing roughly 100 feet of elevation, the road curved sharply NE, then leveled out only a few feet higher than the river. Lupe and SPHP continued along the road gaining vastly different impressions.

The hike was pleasant enough. Both sides of the road were lined with trees and bushes. However, since the road always remained 10 to 20 feet from the river’s edge, and the intervening strip of land was heavily wooded, SPHP was disappointed that the Copper River was never in sight. Loopster, on the other paw, was thrilled! The trees harbored a lively squirrel population.

What joy! Everywhere she went, all up and down the road, Lupe found more squirrels to bark at.

*This is the best idea you’ve had in a while now, SPHP!*

One would think this road might eventually lead to river access at some point, but to Lupe’s great delight the road went on and on, never getting any closer or farther from the river. Meanwhile, the woods provided a steady supply of squirrels that needed a good barking at. That was fine for a while, but after 0.33 mile, SPHP insisted upon pushing through the narrow woodlands to the edge of the Copper River.

Hmm. Water was way up against the bank, putting an end to any dreams of a stroll out on a nice long exposed stretch of riverbed.

*Too bad you didn’t bring a raft, SPHP. That would have been quite an adventure!* Lupe by the **Copper River**.

9-6-18, 8:30 PM, Donjek River, Yukon Territory – The Copper River had been the highlight of the day. 456 miles from where she’d left Palmer, Alaska this morning, Lupe arrived at another mighty river, the Donjek, in the Yukon Territory. Clouds had spit rain on and off all day long.

There was a glorious mountain here S of the river. SPHP had taken to calling it Donjek Crossing Mountain. Ever since Lupe had first crossed the Donjek River in 2016, thought had been given to climbing it, but the weather hadn’t ever cooperated. Wasn’t looking all that promising this evening, either, but who knew what the morning might bring?

In any case, stopping here for the night. Going to give it a chance. The Donjek River was very low. As day turned to dusk, the Carolina Dog had a fabulous time wandering up and down exposed riverbed with SPHP.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** beyond the Alaska Highway bridge over the **Donjek River**. Photo looks ENE.

9-7-18, 6:10 AM, Donjek River – Light out, but the news was as expected. An hour and a half ago, it had been raining. No rain now, but heavily overcast. SPHP petted Lupe, and got an enthusiastic licking in return. No huge rush, may as well sleep in a bit. Not likely, but maybe the sky would clear?

9-7-18, 8:48 AM, Donjek River – No change. Low ceiling. Simply dismal. Donjek Crossing Mountain, along with every other high point, was cloaked in clouds. Otherwise nice enough out, but no point in climbing anything only to spend the whole day lost in a fog.

Lupe still managed to have a fun morning constitutional romp along the mighty Donjek River, though, before pressing on.

*Even without being able to see the mountains, the **Donjek River** is still an impressive sight, isn’t it? Think of how enormous it must be during the spring snow melt!* Photo looks SW.

The weather gradually improved on the road S. By the time Loop got to Kluane Lake, patches of blue sky were visible off to the E. However, the visitor center at the SW end was closed when she arrived. A few miles farther, Lupe and SPHP stopped again at a big pullout at the far S end of the lake.

S shore of **Kluane Lake**. Photo looks N.

This pullout is a favorite spot. Lupe had first been here in August, 2016 only a few months after an incredible change occurred. In May, 2016, Kluane Lake’s principal water source was naturally diverted elsewhere. Meltwaters from the Kaskawulsh Glacier broke through a former ice barrier, and completely changed course. Instead of flowing N into the Slims River and Kluane Lake, the meltwaters now flowed E into the Kaskawulsh River.

This dramatic change had happened practically overnight. Sadly, the water level in Kluane Lake has been dropping ever since. The lake was still huge and beautiful, but noticeably lower again this year. Lupe and SPHP spent a little while enjoying the lake, the mountain views, and a few rambunctious Dingo games.

**Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.)** from **Kluane Lake**. Lupe had climbed Sheep Mountain in 2017. Photo looks NW.

Light rain fell in Whitehorse when SPHP stopped for supplies, although it had been merely cloudy on the way here from Kluane Lake. The rain didn’t last, and by evening Lupe was back in Alaska! With 2 big cruise ships in port, Skagway was busy.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood dropped by the Arctic Brotherhood building, just to let them know they still have some competition. Then she took a stroll down to see the cruise ships, before finishing up her tour with a sight-seeing drive out to Dyea.

Lupe visits the old Arctic Brotherhood building in Skagway, now a tourist information center.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returns! Lupe joined the Arctic Sisterhood when she climbed **AB Mountain (5,036 ft.)** near Skagway in 2017.

Checking out the cruise ships down by Taiya Inlet.

*So, SPHP. When are you going to take me on one of these? Dingoes love luxury you know!*

For 3 days now, Lupe had been mostly on the road, taking her fun in bits and pieces at short stops along the way. Bigger opportunities for more than that hadn’t panned out. However, with any luck, tomorrow that would change. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Circle would be hitting the trail to high adventure once again, right here in Skagway!

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Sheep Mountain, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-13-17)

AB Mountain – Lupe Joins the Arctic Sisterhood!, Skagway, Alaska (8-7-17)

The New Arctic Brotherhood

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