K’esugi Ridge Trail – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

K’esugi Ridge: Little Coal Creek to Peak 4500, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-24-19)

Days 19 & 20 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-23-19, 6:34 AM, 31ºF, 1.5 miles NNW of Glenn Highway MP 123.3 – After her tremendous exertions up on Syncline Mountain yesterday, Lupe had scarcely moved a muscle all night. She was up and about bright and early now, though, sniffing among the bushes while SPHP straightened up the G6.

Still smoky this morning, so no great rush. A leisurely breakfast (beef stew!) was prepared at the Gunsight Mountain trailhead (MP 118.5). SPHP was surprised when Loop only wanted her Taste of the Wild. After breakfast she snoozed through most of the scenic drive to Palmer, where the smoke proved to be worse than ever.

Not good. Plan A had been to climb one of several possible peaks in the Palmer area, but evidently that wasn’t going to happen. Maybe the air would be clearer closer to the ocean? Lots of great peaks in Chugach State Park!

SPHP drove all the way to Anchorage, but Plan B was a flop, too. The mountains were barely visible. The smoke was as bad here as in Palmer, if not worse. Drought and forest fires in Alaska! It seemed incredible. In prior years, it had been hard to find a day when it didn’t rain.

Stops for supplies, an oil change for the G6. Hours frittered away. What to do? No sense in hanging around, the smoke wasn’t going to go away unless it rained hard, or the wind shifted. Kenai Peninsula or inland? The Carolina Dog stated no preference. SPHP gambled on inland.

N of Wasilla, a lighted sign said “FIRE MP82-91 expect 3-4 hour delays”. Plan C was looking shaky, at best.

8-24-19, 8:44 AM, 46ºF, Little Coal Creek trailhead, Denali State Park – The lighted sign had either been hype, or outdated. Lupe had gotten through yesterday with only a single 30 minute delay. She’d seen some charred acreage right next to the Parks Highway, but no flames, no billowing smoke, no emergency. However, she’d arrived at Denali State Park too late to take on any big excursions.

A beautiful morning today, though! Blue skies and no sign of smoke at all. Wind must be blowing the right direction. Better take advantage of the situation while good fortune held. After a whole day of rest, the American Dingo was ready for action!

The Little Coal Creek trailhead is at Parks Highway MP 163.9 in Denali State Park.

The trailhead parking lot. Look at those blue skies! Going to be a fabulous day!

Expectations were high! A return to Denali State Park’s beloved K’esugi Ridge was on the agenda. The Little Coal Creek trail would get the Carolina Dog up there. Ultimate destination, an off-trail exploration of Peak 4500!

The Little Coal Creek trail began as a nearly level trek in a ferny forest. Lupe trotted along watching for squirrels, with occasional success. A joyful start!

Setting out on the **Little Coal Creek trail**.

Sending telepathic waves inviting squirrel down for breakfast.

The trail crossed 2 small tributaries of Little Coal Creek. Both had plank bridges. The second stream, which was the biggest, drained a nearby pond.

Only SPHP made use of the plank bridges.

A look back at the pond after crossing the stream. Photo looks NE.

After passing the pond, Lupe came to a first glimpse of the Little Coal Creek valley just S of the trail. Although she could hear it, the valley was so full of trees, Looper couldn’t see Little Coal Creek.

First glimpse of the **Little Coal Creek valley**. Photo looks SW.

Lupe hadn’t gained much elevation yet, but the trail began to steepen as it veered away from Little Coal Creek. The upward pace was still easy to moderate. For quite a long way, trees and tall bushes hid all views.

Eventually things began to open up. Tantalizing glimpses of the Alaska Range beyond the Chulitna River valley appeared. SPHP tried to hurry, hoping to get high enough to see more before the sky could cloud up. Vegetation shrank. Loopster made it above treeline. Although clouds partially obscured the highest peaks, all the lower ones were on display. The views were already incredible!

Getting close to treeline. Photo looks ENE.

The **Alaska Range** beyond the **Chulitna River valley**. Photo looks NW.

**Eldridge Glacier**. Photo looks NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe had never enjoyed such a clear day on the way up to K’esugi Ridge before. As she kept going, even the summit of Denali (20,310 ft.), the highest mountain in North America, sometimes appeared.

One of the best views up the **Little Coal Creek valley**. Photo looks SE.

**Denali** (Center) appears! Photo looks NW.

**Denali** with help from the telephoto lens – a mountain among mountains!

As impressive as the Denali and the Alaska range were, the beauty of K’esugi Ridge was also stunning. The Little Coal Creek trail steepened considerably shortly before the American Dingo reached the tundra.

*It’s all so magnificent!* Photo looks NE.

The trail steepens. **K’esugi Mountain (4,700 ft.)** (Center). **Little Coal Creek valley** (R). Photo looks S.

Near the end of the Little Coal Creek trail up on **K’esugi Ridge**. **Indian Benchmark (4,558 ft.)** (R). Photo looks SE.

**Denali** (Center) & the **Eldridge Glacier** (R) beyond the **Chulitna River**. Photo looks NW.

The 3.3 mile long Little Coal Creek trail formally ended soon after Lupe reached a region of gentler slopes near K’esugi Mountain (4,700 ft.). She was now on massive K’esugi Ridge, a world of tundra and rocks!

The end of the Little Coal Creek trail was a mere technicality. The trail actually kept going, but now as the K’esugi Ridge trail. Pass 3500 on the other side of the Little Coal Creek valley was now the next objective. Skirting along the base of K’esugi Mountain, the K’esugi Ridge trail headed right for it.

The **Little Coal Creek trail** formally ends right along in here, but continues on as the **K’esugi Ridge** trail toward the saddle seen on the R. **K’esugi Mountain** (L) and **upper Little Coal Creek valley** (R). Photo looks SW.

Although Lupe crossed the main channel of Little Coal Creek on the way to Pass 3500, she only saw minor tributaries. However, she did heard the main stream gurgling beneath a boulder field that slowed SPHP down considerably.

Our next mission, should you choose to accept it, is to get up to **Pass 3500** (L). Photo looks W overlooking the **upper Little Coal Creek valley**.

Approaching the boulder field at the **base of K’esugi Mountain**. Photo looks WSW.

Looking back after crossing Little Coal Creek. Photo looks NE.

Heading for **Pass 3500**. The K’esugi Ridge trail goes over it toward the R. Photo looks W.

Upon reaching Pass 3500, Loopster again had a sweeping view of the Chulitna River valley and the Alaska Range. Ahead, the K’esugi Ridge trail gradually descended a broad, open slope leading to a level region W of K’esugi Mountain.

**Chulitna River** from **Pass 3500**. Photo looks W.

**K’esugi Ridge trail** W of Pass 3500. Photo looks W.

Glancing back at **Pass 3500** (L). **K’esugi Mountain** (R). Photo looks E.

The trail levels out a mile W of K’esugi Mountain. Photo looks WSW.

For more than a mile the K’esugi Ridge trail was wide, well-worn, and nearly flat. Lupe passed a couple of scenic small tarns.

Near one of the tarns the trail went by. Photo looks W.

Tremendous views of the **Alaska Range** were constantly on display from the K’esugi Ridge trail. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

1.5 miles from Pass 3500, a larger tarn appeared. Beyond it was the long ridge that leads up to Peak 4500.

Approaching the larger tarn. Photo looks SW.

The ridge beyond this tarn leads to Peak 4500. Photo looks S.

Glancing back. **Pass 3500** (far L). **K’esugi West (4,600 ft.)** (R). Photo looks E.

**K’esugi West (4,600 ft.)** (Center) beyond the same tarn. Photo looks SE.

**Chulitna River valley** & the **Alaska Range** from the K’esugi Ridge trail. Photo looks W.

Lupe stuck with the K’esugi Ridge trail as she continued on beyond the big tarn. Before too long the trail crossed a stream. The American Dingo didn’t have much farther to go to reach the start of the long ridge to Peak 4500.

Crossing the stream 0.25 mile beyond the big tarn. The ridge to Peak 4500 is in the background. Photo looks S.

At the **NW end of Peak 4500** about to leave the K’esugi Ridge trail. Photo looks S.

Upon reaching the base of the ridge, Lupe abandoned the K’esugi Ridge trail. Turning S, she climbed a slope that grew rocky and steepened shortly before Loop made it up to the ridgeline.

Ahead a rumpled region of tundra and rock stretched away toward a series of higher benches. Most of the tundra was a mix of red and cream colors. Little bushes added a few splashes of yellow or orange. Greens were evident wherever the ground was damp. Fields of dark gray rocks covered the steeper slopes.

The terrain wasn’t particularly rough, and it was all, oh, so beautiful! This was going to be a fabulous exploration! Looper was in for a treat!

Up on the ridge, the search for Peak 4500 begins! Photo looks SE.

As SPHP picked a way higher, Lupe roamed the landscape. Alaska was suffering a drought. Instead of exhibiting its usual soft sponginess, the parched tundra crunched underpaw. Wherever possible, SPHP tried to stay on rocks to avoid unnecessary damage.

Eventually Lupe reached the upper end of this first region. Before her was a similar area that sloped more gently. Beyond this plain was a ridge more formidable than anything she’d come to so far. Off to the SW was a sweeping view of a lower part of K’esugi Ridge. Lupe could see both Peak 3700 and Ermine Hill (2,700 ft.).

Crossing the plain leading to a more challenging ridge (R). **K’esugi West** (L). Photo looks E.

**K’esugi Ridge** is 2 miles wide and tens of miles long. **Peak 3700** (L). **Ermine Hill** (R) is the closest bump seen near **Byers Lake** (far R). Photo looks SW.

After crossing the gentle plain near the upper end of a moist area, Lupe started climbing toward the more formidable ridge. This region was steeper and rockier, but really wasn’t all that difficult. The slope was a long one, though. Soon the Carolina Dog was ready for water and a rest. SPHP didn’t mind in the least. The break felt so good, another one was taken shortly before reaching the top.

*Not bad at all, but still a long way!* Photo looks S.

Taking it easy with a view of the **Alaska Range**. **Eldridge Glacier** (L). Photo looks NNW.

Two rest breaks are twice as nice as one! Photo looks SSE.

The top of the formidable ridge turned out not to be a top at all, just the end of the steepest part of the climb. A rocky region ahead led toward a big tundra-covered slope with a slightly higher ridge in view beyond it. Maybe that was the summit?

Above the formidable ridge now. Is that the summit (Center) ahead? Photo looks SSE.

Glancing over at **K’esugi West** (Center). Photo looks NE.

Near the edge of the tundra was a giant boulder, easily bigger than any other rock in the vicinity. Lupe leapt up onto it. From here she could see yet another ridge a little farther off that might even be higher than the one that wasn’t too far away now.

On the enormous boulder, with yet another ridge (L) now in sight. Photo looks SE.

From the giant boulder, a short stroll on the tundra brought Lupe to a pancake flat plain. The more distant ridge did appear higher than the one now close at paw. The American Dingo headed for it.

On “**Pancake Plain”** heading for the more distant ridge (L). Photo looks SE.

Approaching the once more distant ridge. Photo looks SE.

The **Alaska Range** from Pancake Plain. Photo looks NW.

*We’ve got to be getting close now!* Photo looks S.

The slopes leading up onto this second ridge were an easy trek. The top turned out to be a flattish, yet uneven region with 3 high points. The S high point was 20 feet lower than the other two, which were so close to being the same elevation it was hard to tell which might be highest.

**Peak 4500’s summit region**. **NE high point** (Center) and **Center high point** (R). Photo looks SE.

No doubt about it! Lupe had made it to the summit of Peak 4500. She arrived first at the Center high point where a thick, round stone sat amid similar boulders.

On the **highest rock at the Center high point**. **Peak 3700** (Center) beyond Loop. Photo looks SW.

On **Peak 4500’s Center high point**. Photo looks SE.

The **Alaska Range** from Peak 4500. Photo looks NW.

**Denali** from Peak 4500. Photo looks NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

The NE high point 200 feet away was different. It consisted of a narrow ridge of much smaller rocks. Since the NE high point looked just as high as the Center one, to truly claim her peakbagging success Loop had to go over there, too. Beyond a steeper rocky slope, the American Dingo had a fabulous view of K’esugi West (4,600 ft.), K’esugi Mountain (4,700 ft.) and Indian Benchmark (4,558 ft.).

**K’esugi West** (L) and **Peak 4500’s NE High Point** (R). Photo looks NE.

At the **NE high point**. **K’esugi West** (Center) & **K’esugi Mountain** (R). Photo looks N.

**K’esugi West** (L), **K’esugi Mountain** (Center) and **Indian Benchmark** (R) from Peak 4500. Photo looks NE.

Peering down **Peak 4500’s N slope**. **K’esugi West** (R). Photo looks N.

The **Center high point** (Center) from **Peak 4500’s NE high point**. Photo looks WSW.

Having visited both the Center and NE high points, it was still difficult to say which might be the true summit. SPHP suspected the NE high point, but it was such a close call. The S high point was clearly out of the running, but having come so far, Loop visited it, too. She was rewarded with a sweeping view of the Susitna River valley.

The **Susitna River valley** from the **S high point**. Photo looks S.

**Center high point** (Center) and the **NE high point** (R) from the **S high point**. The Center high point is about 600 feet away. Photo looks N.

**K’esugi West** (L), **K’esugi Mountain** (Center) and **Indian Benchmark** (R) from the **S high point**. Photo looks NE.

**Lake 1395** (Center) and the **Susitna River** (R). Photo looks E.

Although not a difficult trek, getting to Peak 4500 had been a long one. Now that she’d visited all 3 high points, Lupe was ready to relax. She returned to the Center high point with its scenic big boulders, selecting a comfy spot. 55ºF, a soft NE breeze. Surrounded by the glory of Alaska atop K’esugi Ridge’s Peak 4500, the Carolina Dog laid basking in the slanting rays of the late afternoon sun.

Dozing on **Peak 4500**. Photo looks WSW.

A perfect late summer day! Clouds drifted slowly by the gleaming white form of North America’s highest mountain. Who would ever want to leave?

**Denali**, formerly **Mount McKinley**. Photo looks NW.

Yet the moment came. 1.5 hours gone by since the American Dingo had arrived up on Peak 4500. Lupe was ready. Once again she stood poised atop the highest rocks.

**Eldridge Glacier** (R) from the Center high point. Photo looks NW.

Onward! Puppy ho!

Oh, there was more, so much more! The adventure wasn’t over yet!

Let’s do some exploring, Looper!

Batteries recharged, Lupe was all in favor of that! Returning to Peak 4500’s NE high point, she paused only briefly before starting down the rocky N slope.

Leaving Peak 4500. After reaching the edge of the canyon seen below, Loop traveled along it to the **small dark hill** at far L. Photo looks NE.

Near the canyon S of **K’esugi West**. Lupe traveled L along the edge from here. Photo looks N.

A better view of the canyon. Photo looks NE.

After an initial 200 foot descent to the edge of a canyon NE of Peak 4500, Lupe traveled NNW along it. Near the end she came to a flat region as she approached a small dark rocky hill. From here Loop might easily have gone NE down a long slope to Pass 3900, the saddle between Peak 4500 and K’esugi West. However, off to the WNW at the far end of the flat region was an unusual rock formation.

Approaching the **small dark hill** (L). From here Lupe first explored the flat region to the L before returning to head down the slope on the R to **Pass 3900**. Photo looks N.

Hey, SPHP! Let’s go check that out!

Leading the way across the flat region, the Carolina Dog soon came to the world famous (well, it is now!) “K’esugi Stonehenge”.

Approaching **“K’esugi Stonehenge”**. Photo looks NW.

**Peak 4500** from **K’esugi Stonehenge**. Photo looks S.

After a thorough investigation, Lupe tried to take a shortcut from K’esugi Stonehenge to Pass 3900 by going E around the N side of the small dark hill. Things quickly became a bit steep.

*This way, SPHP! What do you mean by “you’re not coming”?* Photo looks NNE.

*Eh, maybe not that way either, Looper.* Photo looks NW.

OK, more than “a bit”. SPHP did a magnificent poultry impression and chickened out. Loop wound up traveling back across the flat region to the easy way down to Pass 3900.

*Think you can manage this, SPHP? …. Yes, much better!* **Pass 3900** (R).

From Pass 3900, it looked like it might be possible to go right up the SW face to the top of K’esugi West. Unfortunately, there wasn’t time for that.

**K’esugi West** from **Pass 3900**. Doesn’t look that hard to go up from the L, does it? Photo looks NE.

The rest was easy. Staying close to the base of K’esugi West for a little way, the American Dingo eventually headed down to a shallow pond that came into view, and continued NW beyond it.

Descending from Pass 3900. The ridge in the background is the one that led up to Peak 4500 during the ascent. Photo looks WNW.

Skirting the **base of K’esugi West** (R). Photo looks NNE.

Glancing back. A small slice of Peak 4500’s summit (L) is still in view. Photo looks S.

And oh, what a happy time it was! Lupe explored and sniffed to her heart’s content, roaming seldom seen parts of beautiful K’esugi Ridge. An evening in Dingo Heaven!

Heading for the shallow pond. Loop eventually passed through the gap beyond it. Photo looks NW.

The valley beyond the shallow pond. Photo looks NW.

Exactly 2 hours after leaving Peak 4500, Lupe reached the K’esugi Ridge trail again. The fun wasn’t over. Still 5 gorgeous miles to go back to the Little Coal Creek trailhead.

On the **K’esugi Ridge trail** again. **Pass 3500** (Center). Photo looks NE.

Who could ask for anything more? (End 11:06 PM, 42ºF)

**Peak 4500**, K’esugi Ridge, Denali State Park, Alaska 8-24-19

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Denali State Park

K’esugi Ridge Trail System North

K’esugi Ridge: Indian Benchmark & K’esugi Mountain, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-18-16)

K’esugi Ridge: Whimbrel Hill & the Golog Benchmark, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-19-16)

K’esugi Ridge: Ermine Hill, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-26-17)

K’esugi Ridge: Ermine Hill & Peak 3700, Denali State Park, Alaska (9-4-18)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

K’esugi Ridge: Ermine Hill, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-26-17)

Day 27 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

7:00 AM – Lupe prowled among the bushes sniffing excitedly. She liked this place! Getting to be late August. The bushes were starting to show some fall colors. SPHP stretched and walked around a bit looking at the views to the N or NE where mountains and glaciers of the Alaska Range could be seen 15 miles away beyond Monahan Flat.

Lupe’s day started off well with some excited prowling about among these bushes. Part of the Alaska Range is seen in the distance beyond Monahan Flat. Photo looks N.

Zoomed in on the Alaska Range beyond Monahan Flat.

The views were awesome, but the sky was more darkly overcast than SPHP would have liked. Lupe had an adventure planned for today over in Denali State Park. She intended to take the to Ermine Hill trail to a point where she could scramble up Ermine Hill (2,700 ft.), then press on taking the K’esugi Ridge trail to Golog Benchmark (2,970 ft.). A long day, but a fun one, if the weather didn’t interfere.

With so much in the works, Lupe had to get going. 47 miles of gravel road on Denali Highway No. 8 brought her to the pavement on George Parks Highway No. 3 at Cantwell. SPHP turned L heading SW for Denali State Park. Disappointingly, though no surprise, only the lower peaks of the Alaska Range were in view as Lupe neared Denali State Park. All the high stuff, including Denali (20,310 ft.) itself, was shrouded in clouds.

No other vehicles were at the Ermine Hill trailhead at milepost 156.5 when Lupe and SPHP arrived. Despite the general cloud cover, a few patches of blue sky offered encouragement. Looper was at least going to try for Ermine Hill. Whether she would continue all the way to Golog Benchmark might depend on how the weather developed.

A short stroll into the forest led to a registration station. SPHP registered, and the Carolina Dog was on her way. (9:59 AM, 51°F)

Lupe arrives at the Ermine Hill trailhead at MP 156.5 along George Parks Highway No. 3 in Denali State Park.

The Ermine Hill trail started off in a forest full of ferns. Lupe quickly reached a section of trail overgrown with tall grass, ferns, and bushes. It must have rained recently. All the vegetation was sopping wet. Within 5 minutes, Lupe and SPHP were, too.

Lupe starting out on the Ermine Hill trail. Within 5 minutes she would be one soggy doggie from all the wet vegetation overhanging the trail.

The trail gained a little elevation going up a small hill, leveled out for a short distance, then turned SW and dropped close to 200 feet down into the Byers Creek valley. A footbridge across Byers Creek tilted somewhat precariously. The creek had undermined the foundation on the near bank. Fortunately the bridge was still stable enough to cross.

Byers Creek had eroded away the foundation on the near bank for the footbridge going over it. The bridge leaned precariously, but was still stable enough to cross.

Beyond the bridge, the Ermine Hill trail paralleled Byers Creek through another area of thick, wet vegetation. The trail became quite muddy and went over a couple of similar, but much shorter and better supported footbridges. Lupe passed a scenic pond. The trail then started to climb. A final bridge crossed over a different rushing stream.

Once Lupe was over the last bridge, the trail began to climb in earnest. It wound up the W side of a steep slope in a series of long switchbacks. By the time the switchbacks ended, Loop was getting close to tree line. Here the trail straightened out, and proceeded SE up a long slope. Lupe left the forest behind, entering a zone of tall bushes. Soon she was above the bushes, too. She could now see lower peaks of the Alaska range to the N beyond the broad Chulitna River valley.

Above the forest and the zone of tall bushes, Lupe has a view across the **Chulitna River valley** of lower peaks of the **Alaska Range**. Photo looks NW.

Lupe kept going up the slope, which eventually became more gradual. The trail was heading into a sheltered valley where a few scattered trees grew among another profusion of tall bushes.

*Looks like we’re coming to more bushes again, SPHP.* Photo looks SE.

The trail map showed the Ermine Hill trail would continue SE past a narrow lake tucked near the upper end of the valley. A little beyond the lake would be an intersection with the K’esugi Ridge trail. Lupe would eventually need to go there in order to continue on to Golog Benchmark. However, since the Ermine Hill trail only skirts the NE side of Ermine Hill and doesn’t go to the top, the Carolina Dog would first need to leave the trail to finish her ascent.

Lupe drew even with a small pond to the NE. She could already see the start of the narrow lake ahead. A steep, bush-free slope appeared next to the trail offering an unobstructed lane of tundra extending up to more open ground above. This looked like a fairly easy route, so Loop and SPHP left the Ermine Hill trail and started climbing.

The route was even easier than anticipated. The slope was plenty steep enough, but there wasn’t much huffing and puffing going on. Blueberry bushes only 4 or 5 inches high were everywhere! They were loaded with sweet, ripe blueberries. So addictively delicious! SPHP spent less and less time climbing, and more and more time consuming. Progress slowed to a few steps at a time.

The open tundra was beautifully colored. Lupe had lovely views to look at. Yet she became so bored waiting for SPHP, that she took to resting on the soft tundra. Each time SPHP finally managed to go a little farther, she would test the comfort of another slightly higher spot.

*Almost there, SPHP! Come on, before I sign you up for Blueberries Anonymous!*

The Ermine Hill trail passes the near side of the narrow lake seen in the valley below. It meets up with the K’esugi Ridge trail in the open area beyond the far end of the lake. Photo looks E.

Here, Lupe has almost succeeded in leading SPHP above the deadly, delicious, time-consuming blueberry zone. The tundra was full of vivid colors. Photo looks SE.

Lupe sitting patiently waiting partway up Ermine Hill. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.

As SPHP consumed blueberries, blueberries consumed time. An hour went by before SPHP managed to gain 300 or 400 feet of elevation. Here, Lupe was on gentler, interesting terrain. Close by was a striking ridge of white sand and gray rock. It couldn’t be much more than another 100 feet higher, and looked like a cinch to climb.

Above the steep blueberry slope, Lupe found gentler terrain. The summit of **Ermine Hill** is up on the ridge beyond her. Photo looks W.

No longer distracted by blueberries, SPHP accompanied Lupe heading W for the near end of the ridge. An easy climb brought Lupe to the top of the ridgeline for a look around.

The American Dingo saw several colorful rounded hills to the SE. Those rounded hills were all part of Ermine Hill, which encompasses a large area. In fact, the topo map shows 4 different areas contained within 2700 foot contours on Ermine Hill. SPHP anticipated Lupe might have to visit several, perhaps even all of them, to figure out which was the true summit. As it turned out, Lupe wasn’t going to have to work that hard.

Lupe reaches the top of the striking white sand and gray rock ridge. Several colorful rounded hills, all part of the **Ermine Hill** group are seen beyond her. Lupe is already about as high as they are. Photo looks SE.

The colorful rounded hills Lupe saw to the SE included 3 of the 4 areas contained within 2,700 foot contours on the topo map. Lupe was clearly about as high as any of them. The 4th area was farther W on the ridge she was already on. The ground was noticeably higher over there. So it was easy to see that the true summit of Ermine Hill (2,700+ ft.) had to be closer to the W end of this ridge.

Looper didn’t have far to go to get there. She enjoyed a gorgeous, fun, easy ridge walk among flat sandy or gravelly areas and interesting rock formations. The very top of Ermine Hill featured an unusual summit offering a variety of convenient rocky Dingo perches. Despite the clouds, the views were tremendous in all directions.

Ermine Hill’s summit offered a variety of perfect Dingo perches with tremendous views. Photo looks NW.

Lupe gained 1,625 feet of elevation from the Ermine Hill trailhead to reach the summit, making **Ermine Hill** a relatively easy peakbagging objective in the K’esugi Ridge area.

The huge **Chulitna River valley** is seen beyond Lupe. On the far side of the river only the lowest peaks of the **Alaska Range** are in view below the cloud cover. On a clear day, Lupe would have had a fantastic view of Denali, the highest mountain in North America from here! Photo looks W.

Another look at the **Chulitna River** from a slightly different angle. For hours, clouds drifted NE (R) up the river valley. Unfortunately, the great white peaks of the **Alaska Range** remained hidden all day long. Photo looks NW.

Lupe had plenty of dramatic perches to choose from. Photo looks NNE.

Looking ENE. The true summit was a little E (R) of here.

Looper on a different perch. The top of **Ermine Hill** has sort of a badlands type of feel to it, though the views certainly did not. Looking SE from close to the true summit.

This perch is very nearly as high as the true summit.

Lupe could see Golog Benchmark (2,970 ft.) off to the SW. She had been there a year ago, having first reached K’esugi Ridge and Whimbrel Hill (2,645 ft.) from the Byers Lake trailhead. Today’s original plan called for Loop to continue on to Golog Benchmark from Ermine Hill. If she did so, she would complete the entire portion of the K’esugi Ridge trail system between the Byers Lake and Ermine Hill trailheads.

However, Lupe hadn’t gotten off to a very early start, the blueberry trap was another hour lost, and the weather didn’t look all that favorable. Rain showers were drifting up the Chulitna River valley only a few miles to the NW. Furthermore, Loopster would have to first lose 1,200 feet of elevation, then gain 1,500 feet to get over to Golog Benchmark, only to repeat a portion of that process just to get back to the Ermine Hill trail. Golog looked far away.

Lupe could see **Golog Benchmark** (Center). She had been there a year ago. Back then she had come up to K’esugi Ridge from Byers Lake to get to Golog from the other side. Photo looks SW.

Loopster was perfectly content lingering up on Ermine Hill, while SPHP pondered whether it made any sense to head for Golog Benchmark.

Lupe was perfectly content to linger on **Ermine Hill** enjoying the fabulous views while SPHP pondered whether it made any sense to go on to Golog Benchmark. Sadly, the sky over the **Alaska Range** beyond the **Chulitna River** showed no sign of clearing up. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

In 2016, Lupe had reached Golog Benchmark from **Byers Lake**, seen in the distance on the L. Photo looks SW.

In the meantime, a few photos from the cluster of rocks at Ermine Hill’s true summit were in order.

Loop on one of the rocks close to Ermine Hill’s true summit. The **Chulitna River valley** is in the background. Photo looks N.

Lupe near the true summit. She had been up on the rock near Center a little while ago. Photo looks SE.

The true summit of **Ermine Hill**. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe had spent 50 minutes up on Ermine Hill. Decision time. On to Golog Benchmark, or not?

*So, what’s it gonna be, SPHP? Are we going to try for Golog Benchmark (L) again this year, or not?* Photo looks SW.

Sadly, the answer was no. Under the circumstances, Golog Benchmark just looked too far away.

However, the no go on Golog didn’t mean Ermine Hill was the end of Lupe’s explorations today. Another option existed. A little more than 3 miles away to the ENE, a big hill was in view. Peak 3700 wasn’t really much closer than Golog Benchmark as the crow flies, but Lupe’s route to it would be more direct and less time consuming.

Although Lupe wasn’t going to get to go to Golog Benchmark again, she could still try for **Peak 3700**, the distant highest hill on the R. Photo looks NE.

After nearly an hour up on gorgeous Ermine Hill, Lupe started for Peak 3700. She began by traveling Ermine Hill’s summit ridge to its far E end. She saw Ermine Hill’s other colorful hills within 2,700 foot contours again, plus a tarn nearby that she hadn’t seen on her way up.

Lupe at the far E end of Ermine Hill’s big summit ridge. Below is a small lake she hadn’t seen on her way up. Photo looks SE.

The Carolina Dog was now SE of where SPHP had dallied on the steep blueberry slope on the way up. She could see more of the narrow lake the Ermine Hill trail passes by in the valley to the E.

*Oh, no! You’re not going down that blueberry slope again, SPHP, or we’ll never get to Peak 3700!* The SE end of the narrow lake that the Ermine Hill trail goes by is in view below. **Peak 3700** is somewhere out of sight beyond the hills on the L. Photo looks ESE.

There wasn’t a clear, bush-free route down from here like the blueberry slope had been. Most of the way was fine, but Loopster would have to go through a stand of tall jungley bushes to reach the Ermine Hill trail.

Lupe passed by colorful plants like this one on her descent.

The Carolina Dog was making good progress on her descent when she spotted someone 200 feet lower down on the Ermine Hill trail not far from the lake. That someone quickly proved to be two someones and a large dark brown dog. They were all staring intently at the hillside on the far (E) side of the lake.

Nothing appeared unusual about that hillside. Upon closer inspection, however, a black speck was visible way over there in a clearing between the bushes that covered most of the hill. That black speck didn’t seem to be moving, but suspicions were immediately aroused. A quick check with the camera’s telephoto lens confirmed those suspicions.

A black bear was on the hillside across the lake. Probably stuck in a blueberry trap like SPHP had been.

The people and dog watching the bear remained where they were for a few minutes, before turning around and heading back down the Ermine Hill trail. The bear was far away on the other side of the lake, but was something to stay alert for, since it was sort of on the way to Peak 3700. Lupe was going to be on that same hillside, but would pass well above the bear’s current location without having to go right by it.

The bear is visible in this photo, if expanded, but only as a dark speck. The bear is in a large clearing a little R of Center well above the lake and somewhat below the exposed rocks. Photo looks NE.

For a while, Lupe and SPHP monitored the bear’s position as Loopster continued her descent. The bear never moved before Lupe lost sight of the hillside. No doubt it was anxiously devouring as many blueberries as possible before SPHP could get over there to scarf them all down.

The Ermine Hill trail junction with the K’esugi Ridge trail is at the base of the whitish area on the R. From there, Lupe would take the K’esugi Ridge trail up the big gully seen below the peak on the L, and around the back side of the hill at far L. Photo looks ESE.

Loop had lost nearly all the elevation she needed to in order to get back to the Ermine Hill trail again when she was confronted with a jungle of tall bushes. They were much taller than even SPHP was. The American Dingo had no issues with the bushes, but SPHP struggled to get through, especially at the start where they were on a steep slope. Nevertheless, Looper and SPHP did make it down to the trail.

Lupe by a nice grouping of colorful plants having reached the Ermine Hill trail again.

Once back on the Ermine Hill trail, Lupe made rapid progress. She got past all the bushes, and soon arrived at the junction with the K’esugi Ridge trail.

Loop at the junction of the Ermine Hill and K’esugi Ridge trails. She would go NE (L) on the K’esugi Ridge trail from here. Going SW (R) would have taken her past Skinny Lake to Golog Benchmark. Photo looks ESE.

From the intersection, Lupe went NE (L) crossing the valley the narrow lake was in. The lower part of this valley was swampy. On the far side of the swamp, the K’esugi Ridge trail led Lupe up a steep creek drainage. She eventually wound up behind a wall of rock bordered by another, larger swamp.

Looking down the length of the narrow lake as Lupe went by it. The Ermine Hill trail comes up the SW (L) side of this lake. The **Chulitna River valley** is seen in the distance. Photo looks NW.

The whole ridge in the distance is part of **Ermine Hill**. The summit is out of sight toward the far R. The K’esugi Ridge trail is in view below, and meets the Ermine Hill trail over at the base of Ermine Hill. Photo looks W.

Lupe got muddy legs going across this second swamp. She seemed quite pleased with the experience. SPHP managed to gingerly use stepping stones near the rock wall to avoid the worst of the swamp. Beyond the second swamp, a very short climb led to a side trail that headed W to a nearby rocky viewpoint. Lupe and SPHP went there for a look around.

Lupe emerged from her explorations of the second swamp with muddy legs looking quite satisfied with the experience. After all, what’s more fun than wandering through a mucky swamp practically up to your chest in mud?

From the viewpoint, Lupe had a wonderful view of Ermine Hill, where she had just come from. She was now somewhere up above the slope where the bear had been. Looking down, the bear was nowhere in sight. Even though Lupe had come out on top in her encounter with a grizzly bear at the Maclaren River yesterday, it was a bit worrisome not knowing where the black bear had disappeared to. Was it close by?

From a rocky viewpoint at the end of a short spur off the main K’esugi Ridge trail, Lupe has a wonderful view of **Ermine Hill**. She appears more worried about where that black bear is now. She isn’t too far from where the bear had been earlier. Photo looks W.

Keeping an eye and keen nose out for the bear, Lupe returned to the main K’esugi Ridge trail. The trail now climbed steadily as it wound its way N up tundra covered hillsides. Lupe loves this kind of high open territory! The Carolina Dog was soon dashing away across the tundra to explore whatever she could find of interest. Meanwhile, SPHP stuck with the trail.

The trail crossed a couple of small streams. After a mile or so, it leveled out on high ground while rounding a big ridge coming down from the E. This was the same ridge that ought to take Loop to Peak 3700. SPHP now joined Lupe in her off trail explorations to begin the climb up the long ridge. Unseen, Peak 3700 was now a little more than 2 miles due E.

Lupe leads the way, charging off for **Peak 3700**! Photo looks E.

Exploring the huge ridge was a grand time! The ridge was big and broad and hilly. Lots of rocks, some quite large, were scattered across it, but most places there was plenty of nice soft-on-the-paws tundra vegetation, too. Lupe climbed up a series of hilly high points, but each proved to be only another false summit.

Looking for **Peak 3700**. Photo looks E.

Lupe finally reached the top of a larger hill where big rocks covered with black lichens were common. She could now see several considerably higher hills ahead, still perhaps a mile or more away.

One of the two most distant hills was almost certainly the summit of Peak 3700. Loopster would have to lose some elevation to continue on toward them, but all the intervening terrain from here to the top of Peak 3700 looked easy no matter which distant hill was the true summit.

The summit of **Peak 3700** appears ahead! It had to be either the distant hill seen straight up from Lupe, or the somewhat closer one to the L. Photo looks E.

Lupe worked her way down the E side of the rocky hill she was on and reached the tundra. Though still a mile away, Peak 3700 seemed to be in the bag already! Lupe was doing great, the terrain was a cinch, and she was making great progress.

It wasn’t that simple. The sky had been growing darker for some time. Loop hadn’t seen the sun for several hours, and it was starting to feel late. Clouds were everywhere. A huge dark one now appeared passing directly overhead. This cloud didn’t seem to be dropping much rain, none on Lupe yet, but certainly seemed like it might at any moment.

Rain showers could be seen in several directions. They weren’t terribly far away. If Lupe kept going, SPHP was convinced she was destined to get drenched. Even if this dark cloud didn’t rain on her, it certainly seemed like only a matter of time before another one would.

Reluctantly, SPHP concluded the only prudent thing for Lupe to do was turn around. The clouds had held off most of the day, but a rainy evening appeared to be in store. No sense in getting wet and chilled. Another 30 minutes and Loop would have made it to the top of Peak 3700. Now she wasn’t going to get there. So close and yet, so far!

Loopster at the turn around point. Sadly her ascent of **Peak 3700** had to be called off due to deteriorating weather. Photo looks E.

Ever since reaching Ermine Hill, Lupe had enjoyed a fantastic day up in the alpine tundra. The return trip was no different. The Carolina Dog ran like the wind, streaking across vast distances, pausing briefly here and there to sniff and investigate more thoroughly. It was so much fun to watch her go – feeling vibrant and wonderful, so full of life, all joyful and excited to be here. Lupe returned to check on SPHP often, looking like the happiest Dingo in the world, strong and beautiful.

The dark cloud passed by without raining on Lupe or SPHP. Dodged a bullet there. The sky brightened, but remained overcast. Rain showers could still be seen, but none appeared headed this way yet.

On the way back. **Ermine Hill** is the lower gray hill on the L. The **Chulitna River** is seen in the distance. Overhead, the end of the dark cloud is approaching. Fortunately, this cloud never did rain on Lupe. Photo looks W.

**Golog Benchmark** is the distant high point at Center. The much closer lower gray ridge on the R is part of **Ermine Hill**. Photo looks SW.

A rain shower drifts up the **Chulitna River valley**. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

SPHP reached the K’esugi Ridge trail again. Lupe still spent most of her time running and playing on the tundra. She never did see that black bear again.

**Ermine Hill** from the K’esugi Ridge trail. Photo looks WSW.

It wasn’t until SPHP made it all the way back to the forest well on the way down the Ermine Hill trail, that Lupe finally decided she better stick to the trail, or at least very close by.

Loop was near the tippy footbridge over Byers Creek, when suddenly the sky darkened again. SPHP had already been gloating that Loopster was actually going to make it all the way back to the G6 without getting rained on. Clearly rain was now on the way, but the G6 wasn’t much more than 0.5 mile away. Surely, the American Dingo could still get there before the rain hit!

Uh, uh. Halfway there, the raindrops started. Slowly at first, but soon building to a steady downpour. If SPHP had aborted the attempt on Peak 3700 only 10 minutes earlier, Lupe would have arrived back at the the G6 completely dry. As it was, both the American Dingo and SPHP returned cold, absolutely drenched and miserable. (8:32 PM)

Ermine Hill had been a fabulous day, but it rarely pays to gloat.