Arctic Circle – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Beaver Slide Mountain, the Arctic Circle, and the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center, Alaska (8-19-22)

Part 2 of Day 21 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

10:11 AM, 47ºF – After leaving Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.), the Dalton Highway gradually descended to the Kanuti River, crossed it, and began to climb again.

Hey, Loop! Skies are pretty cloudy up ahead, and the last forecast we had said 70% chance of rain in Coldfoot today, so I don’t think there’s any big rush to get there. We’re coming to a big hill that I’d more or less forgotten about since the last time we were here in 2017. Should be an easy climb. Are you interested?

Will we still get to the Arctic Circle today, SPHP?

Oh, yeah! No sweat! We’re practically to it already, Looper. In fact, we’re so close that I’m thinking of naming this hill Subarctic Peak, since it’s only about 5 miles S of the Arctic Circle.

Subarctic Peak, SPHP? I like it! Sounds like a cool name for my first new Alaskan peak in 3 years. Let’s do it!

11:26 AM, 49ºF, near MP110 – The Dalton Highway went right on up and over Subarctic Peak’s E shoulder. Parking the RAV4 alongside an Alaska oil pipeline access road conveniently close to the high point, SPHP then shared a light lunch of cheese and Ritz crackers with the Carolina Dog.

Well, that ought to be about enough, Looper. You were urpy this morning, remember? Ready for a romp up Subarctic Peak?

Yes, but I’m even more ready for more cheese and crackers, SPHP.

I know, but let’s not overdue it. C’mon! Onward! Puppy, ho!

Setting out for **Subarctic Peak** (L). Photo looks W.

Trotting a short distance NW to the Dalton Highway’s high point, Lupe came to a sign.

What does it say, SPHP?

Says “Beaver Slide”, Loop.

Beaver Slide? Odd, what’s that supposed to mean, SPHP?

It means I was wrong, Loopster. I just assumed this hill didn’t have a name, but it does. Beaver Slide is a name assigned by the truckers who first drove the Dalton Highway during its construction.

Well, it’s a funny name, SPHP. You mean to tell me that the first new peak I’m climbing in Alaska is actually Beaver Slide? Subarctic Peak sounded way more daunting, maybe even dangerous!

Maybe so, Loop, but it is what it is. Besides, maybe Beaver “Slide” actually does imply some real danger to a trucker on the long approaches during icy conditions?

Oh, well then, that’s different, SPHP! Beaver Slide Mountain (2,600 ft.), or bust!

Going a little beyond the crest of the Dalton Highway prior to crossing over to the W side, the ditch was full of water. Backtracking to the high point, the ditch was drier. Lupe was reluctant to follow SPHP through thick vegetation toward a line of tall bushes until discovering a faint path that got her past them.

Emerging from the tall bushes, the path continued up a mixed slope of tundra and much lower bushes. A couple of sizable rock outcroppings were ahead. Beyond them a series of high points were in sight along Beaver Slide Mountain’s N ridge.

Heading for the **N ridge**. Photo looks WNW.

The path went W up a shallow drainage that was wet in spots. Only a few days past mid-August, but the tundra was already sporting amazing autumn colors. Brilliant reds of the alpine bearberries were the most dazzling of all.

On a dazzling carpet of alpine bearberries.

Passing between the 2 rock outcroppings, the path turned NW along the back side of the larger one. Lupe left the trail here to scramble up onto a small stony ridge. Gazing ESE back toward the start, the RAV4 was only a blue dot down by the Dalton Highway and the Alaska oil pipeline.

**Dalton Highway** and **Alaska oil pipeline** from the first stony ridge. Photo looks ESE.

To the W, an easy tundra slope led up to a saddle between the 2 high points farthest N along Beaver Slide Mountain’s N ridge.

The **saddle** (L of Center) on **Beaver Slide Mountain’s N ridge**. Photo looks W.

During the gorgeous trek up to the saddle, Lupe passed a few more wet spots, but the tundra was dry by the time she reached it. Several rocky high points were now visible off to the S, the most distant one being the apparent summit. Another high spot was only a short distance N.

**Beaver Slide Mountain summit** (L of Center). Photo looks S.

**Northernmost high point** (R of Center) along the **N ridge**. Photo looks N.

I know it’s the lowest one, but want to check out the N high point, SPHP?

Sure! Why not, Loop? We’re almost there already.

At the N high point, a knob of rock made a terrific Dingo perch offering some great views. The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline were off to the E and N. The 3 high points the American Dingo would head for next were due S. Perhaps the most intriguing view was of a big dome 7 miles WNW.

On the **N high point**. **Summit** (R of Center) in the middle. Photo looks S.

**Beaver Slide Mountain’s N high point**. Lupe started from the side road (L) linking the **Dalton Highway** and the **Alaska oil pipeline**. Photo looks SE.

**Dalton Highway** heading off to the N. Photo looks NNW.

The **intriguing dome** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

That’s a cool dome, SPHP! Looks like it wouldn’t be hard to get to, either.

Maybe someday, Miss Ambitious, but we’re not going that far today.

Does it have a name, SPHP?

Nanuk Benchmark (2,688 ft.), Looper. Or Nanuk Dome, if you prefer.

If we’re not going there today, SPHP, at least put it on my list of future possibilities.

I will, Loopster! Ready to continue on to the next high point?

Might as well hit ’em all, SPHP!

Following the broad ridge S to the next high point, Lupe was soon there. Like the N high point, this one featured a rocky Dingo perch, too.

Heading for the **next high point** (L). Photo looks S.

On the **2nd high point**. **1st (N) high point** (R). Photo looks N.

Two higher points were still farther S. Lupe passed a smaller crag on the way to the third high point, which was capped with a ridge of boulders. Getting up onto the third high point required a little bit of a scramble, but nothing the Carolina Dog wasn’t up to.

**Summit** (Center), and the **3rd high point** (R of Center). Photo looks S.

Approaching the **3rd high point** (Center). Photo looks S.

**3rd high point** (L), **1st high point** (Center), **2nd high point** (R). Photo looks N.

On the **3rd high point**. Photo looks SSW.

**Beaver Slide Mountain summit** (L) from the **3rd high point**. Photo looks SSW.

Only one more high point to go! From the 3rd high point, it still looked like the true summit of Beaver Slide Mountain, too, although there might possibly be something a little higher still unseen beyond it.

The S end of the 3rd high point was so precipitous that Loopster had to scramble down to the E before continuing her trek S.

**Beaver Slide Mountain summit** (Center). Photo looks S.

Starting the scramble down off the **3rd high point**. Photo looks NW.

Passing a couple of minor ridges on the way to the summit. Photo looks WSW.

1:07 PM, 52ºF, Beaver Slide Mountain (2,600 ft.) – The slope leading to the true summit was both gentler and longer than any of the other high points had been. The summit region was much more spacious, and less rugged, too. Lupe arrived to find a metal rod jutting up from the rocks, but that was it.

Heading up to the true summit. Photo looks S.

At the **true summit of Beaver Slide Mountain**. Photo looks N.

Congratulations, Loopster! May I shake your paw?

Of course, SPHP! Talk about easy! Beaver Slide Mountain is cake! Nothing dangerous about it at all.

Well, I kind of figured this one wasn’t too tough, Loopster, but look at these views! Worthwhile, wouldn’t you say? Personally, I think they’re marvelous!

Oh, I most definitely agree, SPHP. Glad we came! Naturally, I’d appreciate these views even more, if you happen to have a chocolate coconut bar.

Luck of the Dingo, I do!

Sitting down together in a 10 mph NW breeze, the chocolate coconut bar quickly vanished without a trace. For nearly half an hour, Lupe stayed on SPHP’s lap surveying the magnificent views in all directions. Beneath mostly cloudy skies, Beaver Slide Mountain itself never seemed to be in sunshine, but patches of sunlight could be seen drifting across a vast empty land of rolling hills and valleys.

The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline were still in sight to the E. A tiny blip was identifiable as the top of Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.) far to the SE only because the Dalton Highway went right by it.

**Dalton Highway** and **Alaska oil pipeline** (Center & R). Photo looks NE.

Nearly due S, Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) was 7 miles away. Lupe had been there 5 years ago. Seeing it again from here produced a wistful, funny feeling.

**Caribou Mountain** (Center) on the horizon. Photo looks S.

7 miles WNW, Nanuk Dome (2,688 ft.) continued to entice. A few miles closer, and Lupe would have set out for it today.

**Nanuk Dome** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

But it was the view more directly W here, where unspoiled hills and ridges extended seemingly to the end of the world somewhere beyond vision, that felt most compelling. Lupe could roam there forever!

1:49 PM, Beaver Slide Mountain –

Getting sunnier, SPHP. It’s wonderful here, but if we aren’t going to go any farther, maybe we should head back? I still want to visit the Arctic Circle today, and if we get far enough N afterwards, maybe we can be ready to do something in the Brooks Range tomorrow?

Alrighty, Looper. Hate to leave, but I guess that makes sense. If it’s sunny in the Brooks Range tomorrow, you’re right! We won’t want to miss out.

Final moments on **Beaver Slide Mountain**. Photo looks N.

The return was a super easy, scenic romp across the beautiful tundra. Lupe went by all the high points she’d visited during her ascent, but did not climb any of them again.

Approaching the **3rd high point** (Center) on the way back. Photo looks N.

Leaving an enchanted land! **3rd high point** (L). Photo looks SW.

Once back to the RAV4 (3:00 PM, 59ºF), the Arctic Circle was only another 5 miles N. Didn’t take long to get there, but so many people were coming and going that Lupe had to wait quite a while for her turn in front of the big sign.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was back! On this happy day, Lupe reached the true Arctic again for the 5th time!

3 years ago, the Arctic Circle was as far N as the American Dingo made it. She’d arrived along the Dempster Highway in Yukon Territory in a miserable cold rain on the verge of becoming a snowstorm that might easily have stranded the old G6. Through the gloom, Lupe had seen new snow on the Richardson Mountains before SPHP felt obliged to beat a hasty retreat.

She hadn’t been this far N since.

6:00 PM, Coldfoot, MP175 – No stopping Looper today, though! 60 miles N of the Arctic Circle at Coldfoot Camp in the Brooks Range, she waited in the RAV4 while SPHP gorged on the evening buffet. The only choice available from 5:00 PM to 9:00 PM, the buffet was $27.95, tax included.

So, was it worth it? You should have seen the Carolina Dog’s eyes light up when SPHP produced a big barbecued beef rib with plenty of savory meat attached. Munching and crunching away, Lupe devoured it, bone and all! So deliciously satisfying!

Gasoline was a mere $7.499 per gallon. The Brooks Range is no place to get stingy! SPHP let the RAV4 quench its thirst.

**Coldfoot Camp**. One operational gas pump. Better get it while the getting’s good!

The Arctic Interagency Visitor Center right across the Dalton Highway from Coldfoot Camp was open until 9:00 PM, giving SPHP a chance to play tourist after dinner while Lupe relaxed in the RAV4.

Sign at the turn off the Dalton Highway to the **Arctic Interagency Visitor Center**.

At the **Arctic Interagency Visitor Center**.

The visitor center proved to have lots of free brochures, some really nice displays, and a friendly, helpful staff. SPHP liked the dioramas best, and even attended a 40 minute long ranger talk held just before closing time.

9:40 PM, Dalton Highway N of Coldfoot – After crossing 2 bridges over the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River, a side road appeared on the R beyond MP195. After making the turn, this side road led to an enormous open space. Ahead stood a huge mountain, all golden in the late evening sun. A skiff of new snow was visible near the top.

This must be the place, Loop!

What place, SPHP? Are we going to climb that mountain?

Weather permitting, that’s the plan, Looper. Think this is where Andrew Holman and Abbey Collins set out for Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.) less than a year ago.

So, that’s Poss Mountain, SPHP?

Believe so, Loopster. Been wanting to take a stab at Poss ever since we first saw it from Sukakpak Mountain back in 2016.

Poss Mountain looks mighty steep, SPHP! Really think we can climb it?

Don’t know, Loop. Might be beyond us. Shall we find out?

On **Beaver Slide Mountain**, Yukon-Koyukuk Ranges, Alaska 8-19-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Beaver Slide Mountain GPS Track (Ascent)

Caribou Mountain, Alaska 8-16-17

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

To the Arctic Circle! – Return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood (8-16-19 & 8-17-19)

Days 12 & 13 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-16-19, 6:02 AM, 36ºF, at the Mount Haldane trailhead – Chili bean! Chilly enough to fire the G6 up to get the heater going. Might as well drive a bit. Minutes after waking, Lupe was headed S on the Silver Trail.

Mostly cloudy, with darker stuff to the W. SPHP didn’t drive far, 15 km? After crossing the Minto Bridge over the Mayo River, SPHP pulled into the rest stop on the other side. Chili for breakfast. American Dingoes love chili! Lupe happily scarfed down her share. SPHP moved the G6 close to the river where she could watch a flotilla of ducks.

The sky darkened. Mist, then rain. Hah! The decision to climb Mount Haldane (6,023 ft.) yesterday had been a good one! A beautiful day hadn’t gone to waste. Apparently, if yesterday had been spent driving to get into position for a different peak this morning, Loopster would have gotten rained out anyway. As it was, after two big days of peakbagging in a row, a lazy day was in order. Let it rain all it wanted!

8-16-19, 3:36 PM, 57ºF, Silver Trail at the Minto Bridge rest area – Rain tapering off, and the trip journal caught up. About to get underway again!

8-16-19, 4:09 PM, 51ºF, Five Mile Lakes campground – No rain here! Still heavily overcast, though. Lupe got out for a look at the lake. Nice, but certainly nowhere near five miles long or across. The name must come from being five miles N of Mayo. Turned out that the picnic ground was at a separate location a short drive from the campground.

At the **Five Mile Lakes** campground beach.

The picnic ground was empty when Lupe arrived. The lake wasn’t far away, but wasn’t in view, either. No matter. SPHP heated up a can of clam chowder for supper. American Dingoes aren’t thrilled with clam chowder. Loopster sniffed around the edges of the boreal forest and found a squirrel to bark at instead.

8-16-19, 7:42 PM, Gravel Lake – Lupe’s 2019 Silver Trail adventures were behind her now. Along the N Klondike Highway, a short stop was made for a look at Gravel Lake. Big, round, and probably shallow, Gravel Lake appeared to be merely an over-sized pond.

However, a plaque about lodgepole pines contained amazing information. These days Gravel Lake is about as far N as lodgepole pines are found in the Yukon, but 1,000,000 years ago they grew as far N as Old Crow. The virtually unbelievable part was that lodgepole pine seeds can remain dormant for 10,000 years before sprouting!

8-16-19, 8:31 PM, 55 ºF, at the start of the Dempster Highway – At the S end of the Dempster Highway, SPHP fueled the G6 up at the automated gas station. No quibbling about price, even if one wanted to. Not a good place to get stingy, anyway. Last chance for gas between here and Eagle Plains – 369 unpaved km away!

In 2018, Lupe had traveled the entire 737 km Dempster Highway all the way to Inuvik in the Northwest Territories. She had even pressed on taking the new all-season road (Hwy 10) to Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic Ocean, 845 km from here! Whether the Carolina Dog would get that far on this Dingo Vacation or not wasn’t decided yet. Adventures were in the works as far as the Richardson Mountains N of the Arctic Circle. Beyond that, the crystal ball was hazy.

At any rate, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way back to the true Arctic! To commemorate the occasion, she stopped by the big Dempster Highway sign before heading N.

The Dempster Highway starts at this junction with the North Klondike Highway 496 km/308 miles N of Whitehorse.

8-16-19, 9:39 PM, 50 ºF near Dempster Highway km 26 – Now that it was about over, Loopster saw the first hint of blue sky she’d seen all day. For a moment sunshine was on a hillside! Encouraging, although the sun never appeared. The Ogilvie Mountains were coming into view ahead! SPHP found a spot to park, so Lupe could get out for a look.

A chance to stretch after being cooped up in the G6 most of the day.

Approaching the **Ogilvie Mountains**. Photo looks N.

Far enough! Still light out, but time to call it a day. With a little luck, the Ogilvie Mountains would be out of the clouds tomorrow. Although she’d snoozed for hours in the G6, Lupe went right back to preparing for Mount Chester Henderson (6,300 ft.) in the morning.

*Shhhh! Peakbagging preparations underway!*

Not long after dark, though, the mist returned. Then rain. Not good.

8-17-19, 6:50 AM, 36 ºF – What’s this? A clear blue sky! Awesome! Full of optimism the American Dingo hit the road N. Soon she reached the S boundary of Tombstone Territorial Park. Sunlight was visible on the peaks of the Ogilvie Mountains, yet the sky was much hazier than just a short while ago. Trees were swaying in a lively breeze.

About to enter Tombstone Territorial Park. **Ogilvie Mountains** in view. Photo looks N.

8-17-19, 8:14 AM, 32 ºF, km 71.5 of the Dempster Highway at the Tombstone Interpretive Centre – What a change! Cold, windy, with new snow on the mountains. Mount Chester Henderson lost in the clouds. The interpretive center didn’t open until 9:00 AM. A weather forecast posted outside showed sunny with highs of 12 ºC and lows of 0 ºC the next several days, but that was for Dawson City, not here.

No local forecast, but there was one for where Lupe was ultimately heading – km 450 of the Dempster Highway. That had to be Wright Pass in the Richardson Mountains on the border of the Northwest Territories, or close to it! Unsurprisingly, the Wright Pass forecast wasn’t as good as Dawson City’s – highs of 3 or 4 ºC with lows of -3 to 1 ºC today and the next 3 days. Most days cloudy with periods of rain or snow.

So what did you find out, SPHP?

Mainly that we should wait for the interpretive center to open, Loop. The forecast for Dawson City, which isn’t too far away, is decent, but that’s way down by the Yukon River. Maybe the rangers can tell us a little more about what to expect up here?

New snow in the mountains across the Dempster Highway from the Tombstone Interpretive Centre parking lot. Photo looks E.

Breakfast was lukewarm. The cold wind made it nearly impossible to heat anything up. SPHP returned to the interpretive centre shortly after it opened. A surprisingly busy place, but that was due to the weather. Everyone was cancelling hikes and backpacking trips, and wondering what else there was to do?

A local forecast? Nothing official, but the ranger SPHP talked to said to expect little change. Overcast, high temps near freezing, and a 60% chance of rain or snow every day for the next 3 days. Improving after that. They did have a new extended forecast for Wright Pass, which was at least somewhat encouraging.

What’s the verdict, SPHP?

What we see is going to stick around awhile, Loop.

Mount Chester Henderson isn’t happening then, is it?

Nope, don’t even want to leave the G6 in this frigid wind. No point in it, anyway, with the mountain up in the clouds. Same situation for anything else we might consider around here.

So what now?

I’m pondering that, Looper. Seems we’ve simply hit it wrong. Our timing is off. The safe bet is to just chalk it up to bad luck and head for Alaska. Somewhere skies are blue!

We’ve come such a long way, though, SPHP! Are we really going to give up on everything we were going to do along the Dempster Highway just like that? Aren’t there any other options?

Yeah, we could just sit here or go to Dawson City waiting for the weather to improve, but that’s not in the cards for at least 4 more days. Even then, no guarantees. Only one other thing I can think of, but it’s a gamble. We could keep heading N. Things aren’t any better in the Richardsons, but if we can make it over Wright Pass, we could probably go all the way back to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk!

Oh, the Arctic Ocean would be grand! And that would chew up a few days, SPHP! Maybe it would warm up by the time we headed S again? We might still get a shot at climbing a mountain or two in the Richardson Range!

Exactly, Loopster! The extended forecast does show improvement at Wright Pass on the 21st – sunny and 9 ºC. Cloudy with showers the next day, but then mostly sunny and 11 ºC on the 23rd.

And even if none of that works out, remember Greg and Svetlana from Mount Lorne? They invited us to go to Grizzly Lake with them on the 23rd here in Tombstone Territorial Park. Maybe that would work?

Certainly a possibility. So what do you want to do, Loop?

Well, as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I feel some responsibility to make an effort to return to the true arctic. Can we just keep going N and see how things turn out? Not many Dingoes have ever been to the Arctic Ocean twice!

You can say that again! Darn few have been there even once! Actually, if we get there, you will have almost made it to the Arctic Ocean 3 times. Remember Deadhorse, Alaska? Since they didn’t allow Dingoes, I had to take the Arctic Ocean tour as your personal representative, but you were within only a few miles of the Arctic Ocean then, too. Alrighty, then. I sort of feel the same way you do. Shall we gamble?

Onward, SPHP!

Cold and windy out, but road conditions were fine. Even beneath leaden skies, the scenery was spectacular! No rush on such a day. The G6 made many stops at favorite points. The first was at the famous viewpoint overlooking the North Klondike River valley only a couple of km beyond the interpretive centre. On a clear day, Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.) could be seen at the far end.

This wasn’t a clear day.

**N Klondike River valley**, Tombstone Territorial Park. Photo looks SW.

A closer look with help from the telephoto lens.

The Carolina Dog went past Goldensides, over North Fork Pass, and saw the lower slopes of Angelcomb Peak.

Approaching **North Fork Pass**. Photo looks NNE.

**Upper E Blackstone River valley** from **North Fork Pass.** Photo looks WSW.

**North Fork Pass** looking down the **E Blackstone River valley**. Photo looks NW.

**E Blackstone River valley**. Photo looks W.

8-17-19, 11:39 AM, 30 ºF, Dempster Hwy km 95 (Bubbly Pond) – A longer stop was made at the Bubbly Pond pullout, the lower portion of a two-tier parking area on the E side of the Dempster Highway. Even colder here, but low enough to be protected from the wind, so it didn’t seem bad at all.

Lupe got a chance to sniff through the bushes, play with a stick, and show off how fast she could run! Naturally she visited the bubbly pond, too. Before hitting the Dempster Highway again, she topped it all off with a leisurely counter-clockwise sniff clear around the perimeter of the big parking area.

The bubbly pond parking area, km 95 of the Dempster Highway. Photo looks WNW.

Surfbird Mountain (km 98) was low enough to be out of the clouds and had only a skiff of snow. Farther on, Loopster made stops at the E Blackstone River rest area (km 107) E of Peak 5262 and Chapman Lake.

The **E Blackstone River** was running high. Photo looks NE.

**Chapman Lake** just N of Tombstone Territorial Park. Photo looks N.

The Carolina Dog barked at wild horses in the E Blackstone River, but they were too far away to even look up.

Wild horses in the **E Blackstone River valley**. Photo looks E with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Despite the endless gloomy sky, optimism grew. All was well! The G6 rolled on. So much fun to see these incredible places again! Lupe had been this far N on the Dempster Highway only once, but that had been just a year ago. Memory was still fresh. Suddenly being here again felt fantastic! If only the weather would turn, fabulous adventures awaited!

A quick stop at Windy Pass (km 152) recalled the tremendous day Lupe had climbing Windy Pass Peak, Distincta Peak, and Peak 5906 last year. The Carolina Dog also got a chance to stretch her legs at scenic Engineer Creek (km 168 & 172) and the bridge over the Ogilvie River.

Back at **Windy Pass**. **Windy Pass Peak** (L). Photo looks S.

**Engineer Creek**, km 168 of the Dempster Highway. Photo looks SE.

**Engineer Creek**, km 172. Photo looks S.

Dempster Highway and **Engineer Creek**, km 172. Photo looks NNE.

Bridge at the **confluence of Engineer Creek and the Ogilvie River**. Photo looks SE.

Same bridge with **Sapper Hill (3,150 ft.)** (Center) in the background. Photo looks E.

Shortly after passing Churchward Hill (km 225), the situation began to change. A light rain set in. No problem, at first, but Seven Mile Hill where the Dempster Highway climbs out of the Ogilvie River valley wasn’t much farther, and proved to be muddy and slick. Low traction caused the G6 to struggle and slip. No guardrails. A tad unnerving!

Snow was in the air by the time Lupe reached the Ogilvie Ridge rest area (km 259) at the top of Seven Mile Hill. Not sticking much … yet.

The situation was deteriorating by the time Lupe reached **Ogilvie Ridge**. Normally a great view of the Ogilvie River valley from here. Not today.

I don’t know, Looper. We better talk about this.

Thinking about turning around, SPHP? We got up Seven Mile Hill alright.

Yeah, we were doing great, but now it appears we’re heading into weather. Hasn’t been a speck of blue sky all day. Rain is one thing, but the snow scares me. We’ve got 5/8 of a full tank. If we go much farther, we won’t have any choice, but to continue on to the Eagle Plains hotel where the next fuel is. If we wait too long to turn around, we won’t have enough fuel to get back. The G6 isn’t any good in snow. If conditions worsen, we might easily end up stranded.

How much farther to the Eagle Plains hotel?

Still 110 km to go. Will take hours bumping along at a snail’s pace.

Can we stay at the hotel, if we get there, SPHP?

Sure, if they’re got room.

Well, we can go a little farther, can’t we? If it starts snowing harder, we’ll turn around having given it our best shot! If things improve or stay about the same, we can head for the hotel. How’s that?

A little dicey, but makes some sense. At least there aren’t any more hills as big as Seven Mile Hill before we get to the Eagle Plains hotel. OK, we’ll go a bit farther and see what happens.

8-17-19, 4:05 PM, 35 ºF crossing the Eagle Plains – No turning back now! Not enough fuel. A mix of snow and rain all the way since leaving Ogilvie Ridge. Fortunately, still warm enough so nothing was sticking. The Dempster Highway was a rough, pot holey, sloppy mess, but firm. The G6 crept along, jolting and splooshing through the puddles.

Despite how slowly SPHP was driving, no vehicle going N passed the G6. Scarcely any traffic at all. Occasionally a vehicle heading S appeared. Lupe actually had a few peakbagging objectives along in here, minor hills that should have been easy climbs, but SPHP couldn’t even find them in this weather. Not leaving the highway in this cold, foggy soup, anyway. No way!

8-17-19, 5:38 PM, 33 ºF, Eagle Plains hotel – Nothing dramatic happened. Just a dreary, damp, marginally above freezing day. The G6 made it! At Eagle Plains fuel was $1.70 CAN per liter, roughly $4.95 US per gallon. A bargain. Fill ‘er up! Confidence restored.

A hopeful Dingo looks forward to a pleasant evening at the **Eagle Plains Hotel** *(km 369)*.

Any rooms available? Yes! $160 CAN per night, tax included. Sounds good! Only one person? Yep, and a Dingo. Sorry, no pets. We have 2 pet friendly rooms, but both are taken.

No soft warm bed. No spacious room. Lupe was crushed.

A check of the latest weather forecast on display in the hotel wasn’t as good as the one back at the Tombstone Interpretive Center. One day of sunshine ahead 4 days from now with a high of 6 ºC. The next day 8 ºC, but cloudy. Then a 10 ºC day, but rainy. Until then 3 more days of gloom with rain, snow, and temperatures within plus or minus a few degrees of freezing.

Only one thing to do.

8-17-19, 7:03 PM, 33 ºF, windy, leaving the Eagle Plains hotel – 36 km to go. Barely raining now, so the road was a bit drier. After crossing the Eagle River, the G6 had an easier time climbing the steep hill out of the valley than last year. Kms clicked away. The lower, snow-covered slopes of the Richardson Mountains came into view.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was coming!

Approaching the **Richardson Mountains**.

8-17-19, 8:18 PM, 33 ºF, breezy at the Arctic Circle (km 405) –

Congratulations, Loopster! You’ve made it back to the true arctic for the 4th year running!

Thank you, SPHP! The mountains are all snowy!

Yeah, and the forecast is lousy. Not going to stand much chance of getting any peakbagging done in the Richardsons. Maybe Peak 3850 just S of Wright Pass on the way back from the Arctic Ocean? That’s about it.

We’re going on to Tuktoyaktuk?

All depends on if we can make it over Wright Pass tomorrow. If we can, I think you’ll be seeing the Land of the Pingos again. Still a long way, but we’ve already come so far. Why not go for it?

The American Dingo was more than willing.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returns to the true arctic!

At the **Arctic Circle** 4 or 5 miles from the **Richardson Mountains**. Photo looks NE.

**Richardson Mountains** with help from the telephoto lens.

Same view with help from the telephoto lens.

The plan was to stay at the huge pullout at the Arctic Circle rest area for the night. Lupe hadn’t been here too long, though, before it began to snow lightly.

8-17-19, 9:50 PM, 32 ºF, at the Arctic Circle – A few vehicles had come out of the N. SPHP had been chatting with several people who stopped. Two women had just come from Inuvik. They’d made it over Wright Pass, but the road was treacherously muddy and slick coming up from Rock Creek. A man made it over the pass, too, but had picked up a nail in a tire. Had to stop every 20 km to air it up with a compressor. He agreed that Rock Creek was a mess.

A friendly family in a motorhome were the only ones still heading N. Still optimistic, they encouraged Lupe before continuing on their way.

The last tail lights disappeared. Twilight fading. Alone at the Arctic Circle! A year ago, it had rained incessantly all night here. Fortunately, it had been just warm enough. A degree or two colder, and there would have been feet, not inches, of snow. No telling how long the G6 might have been stranded. Hadn’t happened, though. The next morning Lupe had pressed on, eventually getting all the way to the Arctic Ocean.

Outside the G6, the snowflakes racing by in the wind were now huge. The ground was white. An inch already. Snowing hard and sticking! Almost no visibility. Close to blizzard conditions. If this kept up …

At the **Arctic Circle**, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-17-19

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

On the Dempster Highway to Eagle Plains, the Arctic Circle & Northwest Territories, Canada (8-17-18 & 8-18-18)

Part 2 of Day 14 & Part 1 of Day 15 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-17-18, 1:20 PM, 53°F, km 224.5 – From Churchward Hill (2,871 ft.), Lupe had seen that, on the way to the Eagle Plain plateau, the Dempster Highway went N closely paralleling the Ogilvie River. However, out on the heavily forested floodplain beyond the last of the Ogilvie Mountains, the river was seldom in sight.

Approaching the Eagle Plain plateau, the highway curved NE and soon began an impressive climb up Seven Mile Hill. The Ogilvie River was now being left behind, but from the edge of the giant escarpment, Lupe could see it again off to the SE. Somewhere beyond vision E of here, the Ogilvie would join forces with the Blackstone to form the Peel River.

At km 259.0, the Dempster Highway reached its high point along the SE edge of the Eagle Plain escarpment 1,000 feet above the valley. A huge pullout was here, plus the added convenience of an outhouse. Lupe had reached Ogilvie Ridge.

Ogilvie Ridge was a popular spot. As many as 6 or 7 vehicles were present at any given time. The day was still heavily overcast, and the cold S wind still blew. People came and went quickly. In no rush to get back out into the wind, Lupe and SPHP waited. More than 20 minutes went by, before a moment arrived when no one else was around.

Lupe and SPHP left the G6 to experience the gray, wind-swept solitude of Ogilvie Ridge.

At **Ogilvie Ridge**, km 259.0 of the Dempster Highway.

The Ogilvie River valley stretched from the S to the E. Beyond the broad, green valley, rose distant gray peaks of the Taiga Range. Churchward Hill had provided far superior views of the Ogilvie River, but for being right along the highway, Ogilvie Ridge wasn’t a bad vantage point at all.

The **Ogilvie River valley** from **Ogilvie Ridge**. Photo looks SE.

Lupe sniffed around in the bushes, while SPHP perused several colorful displays about the geological history of the region.

2:58 PM, 47°F – Continuing N from Ogilvie Ridge, the Dempster Highway kept climbing. The road wound around on big hills and ridges. This first part of the Eagle Plain plateau didn’t seem much like a plateau at all. Deep valleys flanked barren hills, but the hills were rounded, not flat.

3:22 PM – Shortly after passing what seemed to be the highway’s highest point in this region, a small pullout appeared. The long climb out of the Ogilvie River valley was over. Lupe stopped for a quick sniff. The Taiga Range of the Ogilvie Mountains could still be seen back to the SE. Ahead, the Dempster Highway kept winding N along a series of lower hills.

Probably wouldn’t have been too hard to take a stroll up to the top of the hill the pullout was on, but Loopster didn’t do it. Having already made it up Churchward Hill this morning, traveling in the comfort of the G6 on a windy, gray afternoon had its charms.

The now distant **Taiga Range** of the **Ogilvie Mountains** from near the high point of the Dempster Highway at the S end of the **Eagle Plain plateau**. Photo looks SE.

The Dempster Highway winds away across the **Eagle Plain plateau**. Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP kept going. The highway wound crazily around in what felt like a desperate attempt to stay up on a strip of hilly high ground. Up and down, this way and that, on and on!

Mountains faded away. Hills and ridges shrank. Often only the highway could be seen. Broad swaths of the spindly, Dr. Seuss trees of the boreal forest were clear cut away from both sides of the road. In their place, bushes thrived.

Despite the overcast sky, the road had been dry, or nearly so, ever since Churchward Hill. At km 335, though, suddenly the Dempster Highway was wet. Within minutes, SPHP drove into rain. The highway became slick and rough. Potholes were brimming with water.

There was supposed to be a viewpoint at km 347.0 where the Richardson Mountains could be seen for the first time. SPHP missed it, but did stop at a wet pullout that appeared a little farther on. Lupe got out for a look around, but no mountains were in sight. A vast, rolling plain stretched away into the fog.

5:38 PM, 44°F, Eagle Plains Hotel & Service Center, km 369.0 – It hadn’t been much farther to the first and only fuel available in the entire 369 km (229 miles) since way back at the start of the Dempster Highway. The Eagle Plains Hotel & Service Center, situated on a hill, probably offers fine views on a clear day, but Lupe arrived amid rain and fog.

With no clue as to how far it might be to the next gas station, a fuel stop was an absolute necessity. Eagle Plains was a full service station. Before SPHP could pump any gas, a relatively young man appeared. That was his job. Fill’er up?

Yes, please!

Asking was a mere formality. The attendant already knew the answer. When it’s 229 miles between opportunities, does anyone skimp? Way up here in the Yukon, it’s a helluva walk back to civilization. Conceivable that stroll might get a mite chilly, too, any time of year.

SPHP didn’t bother asking the price. Whatever it was, one just paid it, and felt fortunate to have the opportunity to do so. The receipt would reveal what a fabulous bargain SPHP had just made.

31.52 liters at $1.65 Canadian per liter came to $52.00 Canadian. That was the same as $39.80 US for 8.328 gallons, or $4.78 US per gallon at the current exchange rate.

Eh, not much worse than going to California, Looper!

Loop spotted a muster point nearby. Was that a requirement? SPHP didn’t know. No one else was mustering, but the American Dingo put in an appearance, just in case.

Nothing happened, though. Nobody came to muster with her, or even say what all the mustering was supposed to be about. Maybe it had been a long summer? Perhaps the local Canadians were sick and tired of mustering on these endless, blistering hot August days?

Loop mustering on yet another baking hot **Eagle Plains** summer day.

However, Loop didn’t get totally ignored in Eagle Plains. A doorman, snappily dressed all in black, came prancing jauntily over from the Eagle Plains Hotel. When he didn’t welcome the Carolina Dog to Eagle Plains, but instead leapt right up onto the G6, and started demanding rewards merely for the privilege of parking in the muddy parking lot, Lupe was pretty put out. The were-puppy appeared and barked ferociously at him. Of all the nerve!

Since Eagle Plains was the only civilized spot for such a long distance, SPHP felt that even if the doorman’s demands were outrageous, perhaps it was best to at least toss him a few raisins and cashews. The doorman was evidently satisfied. He eventually flew off, defusing the whole Dingo/doorman confrontation.

Dressed all in black, the Eagle Plains doorman comes over from the hotel to demand payment for the privilege of parking in the parking lot.

Pretty cheeky to hop right up on a G6 defended by a ferocious were-puppy, but it paid off! SPHP gave in, and bought him off with raisins and cashews.

The Dempster Highway crosses the Eagle River 9 km N of Eagle Plains. Despite its soaring name, the river wasn’t particularly inspiring. Murky brown water in what amounted to a big ditch. Since it was raining, the Eagle River hardly seemed worth stopping for. SPHP paused on the bridge, but only long enough for Lupe to get a look from the G6.

The **Eagle River** was more of a ditch full of muddy water than a scenic highlight.

6:35 PM, 44°F, km 405.5 – Other than the commemorative sign, there wasn’t much more to see here than at the Eagle River. Nevertheless, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was back! Lupe had reached the Arctic Circle again for the first time in nearly a year. It was a glorious moment! A moment destined to be prolonged.

The Arctic Circle featured a huge parking area with two entrances off the Dalton Highway. Two man-made attractions sat along the border of the muddy lot – the commemorative sign, and an outhouse. Of course, the big attraction was the invisible one, the unseen Arctic Circle itself. This was the edge of the true Arctic! Everything to the N was part of the fabled frozen land of the Midnight Sun.

Midnight Sun? The Carolina Dog hadn’t seen the sun all day. Rain, wind, fog! Beneath a leaden sky, it was darker and seemed later than it really was. Who knew what lay ahead? The highway had been greasy slick coming up out of the Eagle River valley. Rough and full of potholes after that. Maybe this was far enough? Maybe Loop ought to spend the night right here at the Arctic Circle?

As the evening wore on, dense fog turned the world a featureless gray. The rain increased in intensity. Traffic ceased. The windows fogged over. Dinner. A warm blankie. To the steady beat of rain on the roof, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood settled in for a snooze.

One of the displays – the most interesting one with a map.

At the start of the Land of the Midnight Sun.

Home for the night. The G6 did get moved farther from the sign, in case anyone else happened by.

8-18-18, 4:17 AM, km 405.5, the Arctic Circle – Light out, kind of. Still raining, still foggy. The growing light did nothing to dispel the gloom. Every time SPHP had woken up, it had been raining, not lightly, but steady. How much had fallen in the past 10 hours? Half an inch an hour, easy. Maybe double that. A regular monsoon!

What was the Dempster going to be like? A sea of mud? Maybe the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood wasn’t going any farther? Maybe she was stuck here, unable even to retreat? The poor G6 wasn’t exactly a Jeep, even if SPHP treated it like one.

Nothing to do about it now, though, except sit tight. The G6 wasn’t going anywhere. Not until SPHP saw similar vehicles out on the Dempster. Better safe here than sunk to the axles somewhere in the literal middle of nowhere.

5:54 AM – Brighter out, still socked in with fog, but the rain had finally let up. Only a light mist now. A few other vehicles had spent the night here. None had budged yet. Not a hint of activity. Certainly none on the highway. Lupe needed out. She made a quick tour of the area. From close to the commemorative sign, a couple of picnic tables sat in a flat area down an embankment. Bet those get a lot of use!

The rain started in again. Back to the G6! May as well snooze some more. “Well-rested” was the predicted future state of things.

The new day bore an uncanny resemblance to the old.

The Arctic Circle picnic area was deserted. SPHP suspected this was its natural state.

9:45 AM – Rain, rain, rain! Wind, too. It hadn’t rained all the time, but did more often than not. A flurry of activity had occurred around 9:00 AM, though. Two big white pick-up trucks started it off, charging by out on the Dempster Highway around 8:40 AM. A green van then appeared out of the N sending up a gigantic spray as it encountered long chains of pothole lakes upon the road.

Other vehicles came and went. People pulled in to use the rest room, or take a look at the commemorative sign. None of their vehicles, however, were as small and pathetic as the intrepid G6. The wait continued.

*You know, SPHP, if you’ve got such a thing for invisible circles, maybe we could try the Tropic of Cancer next time around?*

11:28 AM, 44°F – Alright! Still rainy, still foggy, but it must be OK out there. After a lull, a parade of vehicles had come by. Most were huge pickups, or other massive high-clearance 4WD’s of one sort or another. However, a number of sport utility vehicles, a small tour bus, and even a motor home had been by, too. And just lately, a couple of passenger cars and two motorcycles.

A guy came along on a bicycle, and disappeared over the embankment down toward the picnic tables. That was it! The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way. Going N, too, not S!

It was slow going, but the Dempster Highway wasn’t nearly as muddy as SPHP had feared, as long as one stayed away from the shoulders. The road was rough, though, and full of potholes, each an abyss of unknown depth. The G6 crept along enduring one jarring jolt and drenching spray of dirty water after another, but Lupe was on move again.

There were places where the road was much smoother, pothole free, but they didn’t last long. Amazingly, only 10 minutes from the Arctic Circle, SPHP drove out of the rain. The windshield wipers had to be kept on to sweep away the filthy water still spraying up from the road. However, the fog had lifted a little, and it was possible to see.

Hills were ahead. Lupe was getting closer to the Richardson Mountains. The land was changing. What could be seen below the cloud cover was increasingly beautiful.

Loop out on a nice smooth stretch of highway after SPHP drove out of the rain.

**Foothills of the Richardson Mountains** are ahead. The highway stayed W of them.

The land became more beautiful as Lupe continued N.

12:38 PM, km 445.8 at the Rock River campground – After following a rip-roaring creek down to a low forested area, Lupe reached the Rock River campground at a bend in the Dempster Highway. As SPHP read the map, the campground was not actually on the Rock River, but on White Fox Creek, a major tributary.

It had taken an hour to drive 40 km (25 miles) to get here from the Arctic Circle. The campground, though open, was deserted. Time for lunch, and this appeared to be a great spot for a break from the rough ride N. While SPHP prepared a meal, Loopster made a thrilling discovery. This Arctic forest was full of squirrels!

So, Rock River campground became an instant hit. After lunch, Lupe and SPHP took a stroll around the entire campground loop. Like all the other streams that had been seen from the highway on the drive here, White Fox Creek was full bank to bank, practically at flood stage.

Lupe was more interested in sniffing eagerly from one promising tree to the next. To her everlasting delight, she frequently found a bundle of joy chattering away high above her. For a deserted campground, between the American Dingo and the squirrels, Rock River was a noisy place.

Relaxing at Rock River campground shortly before striking it rich with squirrels.

**White Fox Creek** was running high, full bank to bank.

2:19 PM, 48°F – No doubt the Carolina Dog would have preferred to stay at the Rock River campground a while longer to stake her claim in the great 2018 Yukon Squirrel Rush. And perhaps that would have been the better choice, but Lupe’s journey N continued.

Even before reaching the Rock River campground, the highway had been heading N along the W flank of the Richardson Mountains. Sadly, the mountains were completely lost in the clouds. Loopster had already gone by Mount Hare (4,070 ft.) without even seeing it.

Climbing out of the White Fox Creek valley, the Dempster Highway came to a high, rolling prairie. Large hills and ridges were to the NW, the still unseen Richardson Mountains to the E. This was a gorgeous area!

N of the Rock Creek campground, the Dempster Highway led to a gorgeous rolling prairie with big hills and ridges to the NW. Photo looks NNW.

The Richardson Mountains lie hidden to the R (E) of the highway. Photo looks NE.

Lupe had a few peakbagging candidates in the Richardson Mountains along in here, but none were worth an attempt given the weather. No point in putting out any big effort just to see nothing, and risk getting lost in the fog. Maybe the weather would be better on the return trip? Lupe could do her peakbagging then, SPHP reasoned.

A typical stretch of the Dempster Highway W of the Richardson Mountains.

Onward! The Dempster Highway started curving NE and climbing. Up, up! Views of the beautiful highlands became more spectacular, faded to gray, then vanished. The road wound ever higher past hillsides torn up during recent road construction. The highway leveled out. A parking lot appeared on the S side of the road. SPHP stopped.

3:11 PM, km 465.0 – Outside the G6, dense fog raced by driven onward by a 40 mph gale roaring out of the W. An uninviting, unforgiving world. This was it! Wright Pass (3,133 ft.), end of the Yukon Territory!

Incredibly, E of Wright Pass was an even more remote and mysterious land. A land neither Lupe nor SPHP had ever seen, or even been close to, before. Abandoning the G6, buffeted by the chill wind, together Loop and SPHP walked to the edge of the unknown to experience, for the first time, the Northwest Territories.

When she got there, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood couldn’t see a thing.

At **Wright Pass**, border of the Yukon Territory and Northwest Territories, Canada 8-18-18

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

The Dempster Highway Travelogue Guide

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.