Days 21, 22, and Part 1 of Day 23 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8-12-23, 5:46 AM, 45ºF, Dempster Highway at Wright Pass on the Yukon & Northwest Territories border – Sensing that SPHP had stirred, Lupe woke up. Her eyes grew big in disbelief. Springing to her paws, the Carolina Dog burst into a frantic, foaming-at-the-mouth frenzy.
SPHP, look! A fox!
Outside the RAV4, a big, handsome fox with a huge, bushy tail that had been crossing the Dempster Highway took off like all the Dingoes of Hell were after him, racing away up the side road to the microwave tower.
Yeah, I know it’s a fox, Loopster. I was about to take a photo of it! So much for that, aye?
Lupe cleverly changed the subject.
Wow! There’s an incredible sunrise, SPHP. Let’s get a picture of that.
Leaving the RAV4, the air was calm, the sky overhead wonderfully clear with no hint of the smoke of the Arctic apocalypse that had endured for weeks across thousands of miles, and which had suddenly retreated SW into the Yukon yesterday evening.
Toward the rising sun, a sea of white billowed just below Wright Pass.
It is an amazing sunrise, Loop. The lowlands are all socked in with fog. Let’s get a couple.
So, what’s the plan, SPHP? We’re off to an exciting start!
For today? We’ll see, Looper. After all the mountains we’ve climbed the past few days, my right paw is mighty sore. Still, this looks like a fabulous day coming up. Hate to waste it. If my paw gets to feeling better, maybe we can make an attempt on Peak 1402M after a bit?
That would be awesome! Put on some really thick, soft socks, SPHP.
Good suggestion, might help, Loop. Yet we still need to wait a while to let the iPhone battery charge up. It’s at only 3% after yesterday’s jaunt, kind of like my paw.
8-12-24, 8:24 AM, Wright Pass – After another snooze, SPHP woke still feeling groggy. On her pink blanket, the American Dingo continued her slumbers. SPHP’s right paw was possibly improved. The iPhone battery had made better progress. If Peak 1402M was going to happen, might as well get the pack ready now.
SPHP was nearly finished, when a white pickup truck drove up. Fred, a burly man from Inuvik, who was traveling with 2 young women, and an older one with a nice smile, none of whom ever said much of anything, greeted SPHP with what turned out to be the question of the day.
Have you seen any caribou?
They were hunters, doing what all the hunters did. Drive up and down the Dempster Highway with binoculars looking for a victim. Fred said a tourist had recently reported a herd of caribou so big down by the Rock River in the Yukon that they’d taken an hour to cross the road. Fred had already seen 4 grizzly bears this morning, 2 on each side of Wright Pass, but no caribou.
On the caribou’s side, SPHP gave a vague response of little practical value. Once extracted from the conversation, SPHP hopped into the RAV4 and turned the key.
Driving NE from Wright Pass down into the sea of fog, it was so thick that being on the highway at all seemed downright dangerous. Visibility extended barely beyond the hood of the RAV4. 2.5 miles from the pass, SPHP pulled over at the same pullout where Lupe had left only 3 days ago on her adventure to Mount Sittichinli.
By early afternoon, the fog lifted. Blue skies and puffy white clouds! Too late to even consider Peak 1402M, though. Maybe tomorrow? Despite its promising, exciting start, the day became a leisurely one of naps, short walks, and for SPHP, answering that same question over and over again.
Have you seen any caribou?
8-13-23, 1:03 AM, Dempster Highway pullout 2.5 miles NE of Wright Pass – Putting down the pen, SPHP turned off the headlamp. Made quite a bit of progress on the trip journal today. That right paw was feeling much happier, too. iPhone battery at 100% long ago. Even so, it was hard to feel optimistic about Peak 1402M. Hanging around for it may have been a mistake. Outside in the black night, a cold mist was falling in another dense fog.
8-13-23, 5:13 AM, Dempster Highway pullout 2.5 miles NE of Wright Pass – For the first time on this Dingo Vacation it got cold last night. Alert, Lupe stood in the dim morning light, staring out across the tundra. Beneath low ceiling clouds, it was still almost foggy, the landscape hazy as if seen through the veil of a dream.
What’ya looking at, Loopster?
That dark mound out on the tundra, SPHP. Do you see it? What is that?
Hmm. I dunno, Loop. A big rock? Odd. Don’t remember seeing it yesterday.
The dark mound wasn’t all that far away. Lupe continued her intent stare. SPHP watched for several minutes, too. Nothing.
Where are those caribou hunters and their binoculars when you need them, anyway? C’mon, Loop, I’m going back into the RAV4. Might as well have a bite to eat, then finish up the trip journal. I’ll get you breakfast, too.
8-13-23, 5:38 AM, Dempster Highway pullout 2.5 miles NE of Wright Pass – A low, almost imperceptible growl. SPHP glanced over. Lupe’s hackles were up, and that growl was getting higher in pitch, the Carolina Dog’s excitement rapidly rising.
The mound! It’s moving, SPHP!
Sure enough, it was! Not only moving, but galloping, the mound’s long shaggy fur swaying as it raced away in the direction of Wright Pass. By the time SPHP had the camera trained on it, even the telephoto lens couldn’t get a proper focus before the mound vanished over a ridge.
Awesome! Not every day you see a musk ox, Loop. Please calm down now. It’s gone.
8-13-23, 1:36 PM, 45ºF, Dempster Highway pullout 2.5 miles NE of Wright Pass – The morning turned very foggy again, and it misted for a while. SPHP now had the trip journal caught up, and was out on the pullout heating up a pan of chili on a propane stove. Conditions had improved. Visibility was much better now.
A car full of excited people pulled up.
Hurry! Get your stove, yourself, and everything else into your vehicle. A grizzly bear is heading this way, about to come over that little rise any minute now! We just saw it!
They had a video of the approaching threat on their iPhone, eagerly showing it to SPHP before driving on. Moments later, a white pickup truck appeared, it’s occupant giving SPHP the same dire warning before driving up onto the little rise, scaring the bear away, if it was still coming at all. A gray pickup soon followed the white one onto the rise.
The chili all heated up now, SPHP got into the RAV4 with it.
A grizzly bear is supposedly on its way, Loopster. Keep an eye out for it.
Haven’t seen any bears, but I’ve been watching a couple of caribou, SPHP.
Caribou! They better get away from the Dempster Highway, ASAP.
The caribou weren’t terribly far from the same minor rise where the bear was expected. As Lupe watched, a puff of smoke rose from the ground where they were standing. The caribou took off! Stuck in the RAV4, the Carolina Dog was beside herself with excitement.
Hunters! They missed! Run, caribou, run!
The caribou fled beyond vision from the RAV4, but not from the rise where the pickups were. Their ultimate fate was unknown.
The chili and a couple of chocolate puddings consumed, it was time to get this show on the road again. With the mountains all in the clouds, Peak 1402M was off the table, but at least the beautiful lowlands were in view. SPHP watched for places to park the RAV4 in the general vicinity of Peak 1402M on the way back S, if the weather was better then.
Coming down out of the Richardson Mountains, big regions of tundra on the E side of the range had burned during the recent Arctic apocalypse. Some hillsides still smoldered, smoke rising from the charred slopes.
As the mountains receded in the rearview mirror, the weather quickly improved. Patches of blue sky appeared.
8-13-23, 3:23 PM, NWT km 44 – Beneath fair skies, Lupe stood along the edge of the Dempster Highway, Midway Lake in view beyond her. Site of a music festival in early August each year, a big pavilion in the little community of Midway was visible on the far shore.
Want to check out Midway, Loop? We never did stop in when we were here back in 2018. Shouldn’t take long.
Might as well, SPHP. Who knows what we’ll find?
Not much, as it turned out. The big pavilion where the music festival was held was pretty cool, but the rest of Midway amounted to little more than a collection of colorful shacks, most in various stages of disrepair.
E of Midway, the Dempster Highway ran along an elevated ridge just high enough to provide sweeping views of a vast, gently rolling region slanting gradually down toward the distant Peel River valley. Far to the NW, views of totally inaccessible portions of the Richardson Mountains fired SPHP’s imagination.
Shortly before leaving this ridge, a pullout appeared on the R side of the highway.
8-13-23, 4:00 PM, 58ºF, Tetlit Gwinjik View Point, NWT km 71 – A trail from the pullout led up a gentle slope among bushes and even a few scattered trees.
The sign says there’s a view point, Looper. Shall we check it out?
Of course! I’ve been cooped up in the RAV4 for a day and a half now, SPHP.
500 feet, and that was about it, just enough for a bit of a stretch and to get the circulation going again. The trail ended at a gray observation deck surrounded by bushes, fireweed past its prime, and stunted trees.
The deck featured a distant view of the Peel River and a huge expanse of mostly featureless, unspoiled territory, along with a number of displays.
Just beyond the Tetlit Gwinjik pullout, the Dempster Highway descended into the Peel River valley, which featured a thick, boreal forest. Leveling out at the bottom of the hill, the highway made a sharp turn ENE before passing between a couple of lakes. SPHP pulled the RAV4 over to the side of the road a little beyond them.
I liked this spot when we were first here back in 2018, Loop. C’mon, let’s get a photo!
Seems like you got a couple of them when we stopped here before, SPHP.
Did we? Maybe so. In that case, it’s now a tradition, Loopster!
Not a great decision. No shoulders, and traffic was significantly heavier along the Dempster Highway in 2023 than back in 2018. Semi-trucks and other vehicles kept coming down the hill and roaring past, sending up clouds of dust. Got that photo, though, before fleeing back to the RAV4.
8-13-23, 4:48 PM, NWT km 74 – The Peel River was only a mile beyond the lakes. When Lupe arrived, the free MV Abraham Francis ferry was on the far side of the river, giving the American Dingo an opportunity to escape the RAV4 for a few minutes to sniff around.
While the Peel River was big, due to the Arctic apocalypse drought, it was running much lower than back in 2018. The river wasn’t anything out of the ordinary, but the free ride on the ferry was fun.
8-13-23, 5:20 PM, NWT km 86 – After crossing the Peel River, the Dempster Highway turned N, paralleling the river, but about a mile E back in the boreal forest, so the Peel never came into view again. When the L turn into Fort McPherson appeared after only 12 km, SPHP took it.
May as well see it all, Loopster!
We toured Fort McPherson back in 2018, SPHP.
I know, but I don’t remember much about it, Looper, except that there’s more to Fort McPherson than we saw at Midway today.
True enough, but not an awful lot more. Fort McPherson did feature a few critical services, including cell service, and a Co-op gas station near Inns North, plus a few other businesses. Other highlights included the community center, and the church graveyard.
Don’t think we’re ready to be planted quite yet, are we, Loop?
Most certainly not, SPHP!
Onward, then! Puppy, ho!
Beyond Fort McPherson, the Dempster Highway wound E, meandering through a region of forested lowlands. A bit of hilliness, and frequent glimpses of small, hidden lakes added interest to this drive, which ended at the Mackenzie River near its confluence with the Arctic Red River.
8-13-23, 6:36 PM, NWT km 142 – Although also running much lower than in 2018, the Mackenzie River was more impressive than the Peel River to SPHP’s way of thinking, partly because it was bigger, and partly due to the bluffs along the banks. In addition to continuing N on the Dempster Highway, the MV Louis Cardinal ferry offered an optional side trip to the village of Tsiigehtchic, visible up on the bluffs to the S.
We’ve never been to Tsiigehtchic, SPHP. Want to check it out?
Oh, I don’t know, Loop. Not sure I want to wait for the ferry more than once here. Think I’d rather stick with the Dempster.
You’re such a creature of habit, SPHP! What happened to “may as well see it all, Loopster”? Promise you’ll take me to Tsiigehtchic someday?
Eh, maybe. Maybe not. I suppose we should go sometime, just to see it once. It’s not like I never take you anywhere, Sweet Puppy.
Beyond the Mackenzie River, the Dempster Highway ran straight and flat with few curves for many miles. Boreal forest no longer lined the road, having been cut back a long way from it, and there were fewer lakes. Every vehicle raised great plumes of dust that settled on bushes trying to survive in the broad, open strip vacated by the forest.
The Rengling River at NWT km 178 provided temporary relief from the monotony, as the Dempster Highway dove sharply into the surprisingly deep and scenic canyon the river had carved. However, straight as a stick, the highway climbed just as sharply out of the canyon and leveled out again.
More dusty miles were ahead. No distant views at all along in here, and the cheerful mood of at least some blue sky and sunshine that formerly prevailed after coming down out of the foggy Richardson Mountains was now turning more somber with a gloomy, darkly overcast sky ahead. As the RAV4 raced along raising its own plume of dust, a light mist began to fall, but soon ended.
Nothing to see except a bunny, and by then the Carolina Dog was fast asleep on her pink blanket. At last, a forested ridge appeared off in the distance toward the L. The Dempster Highway began to wind and climb toward it, passing the Vadzaih Van Tsik campground (NWT km 221) on the R at Caribou Creek.
8-13-23, 8:20 PM, 50ºF, NWT km 232 – Several vehicles were already parked at the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii view point pullout when Lupe arrived. However, they had all left by the time the American Dingo was done sharing a can of salmon and a package of Ritz crackers with SPHP.
Even though a bright blue double trash can sat at one end of the pullout, the place was a mess. Trash everywhere, and a display with only a few dirty, decaying photos, plus a map faded to the verge of illegibility.
Pathetic! This is the trailhead for the only decent trail we know of beyond the Richard Mountains, and look at it, Loopster. Not taking a photo while it’s looking like this.
20 minutes worth of effort produced a 95% improvement. SPHP took that photo of Lupe in front of the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii view point sign.
8-13-23, 9:14 PM, NWT km 232 – The big attraction here was a 2 mile long loop trail to the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Loop High Point (385 ft.) up on a ridge overlooking Campbell Lake, the largest lake SPHP was aware of anywhere along the Dempster Highway. An option also existed to take a much shorter spur to a Campbell Lake observation deck.
Still pretty light out. Want to hit the trail, Loop? Think we’ve got time enough for it before it gets dark.
It’s a loop trail, right, SPHP? They don’t call me Loopster for nothing!
Lupe had barely gotten started, when she came to the first junction. The spur trail to the Campbell Lake view deck split off toward the R here.
Sticking with the main loop, Lupe stayed to the L. The trail began a slow descent through the boreal forest. SPHP was pleased to see that the trail was in much better shape than the trailhead had been.
Guess the idiots aren’t much into hiking and exploring, Loopster.
We can count our blessings on that, SPHP.
Short boardwalks went over moist regions. A long wall of light gray rock appeared on the R. Soon a second junction appeared. To the L, a long boardwalk went up a gentle slope. Off to the R, the trail headed toward another wall of gray rock.
Any preference, Looper? This is the start of the loop. Either way brings us right back to this point. The boardwalk is the long way to the highest point, if that makes any difference to you.
Hardly matters if we’re going to do the entire loop, SPHP. Back in 2018, we took the boardwalk, right? Let’s do that again.
Uh-huh! Now who’s the creature of habit? But I like that way, too. Onward! Puppy, ho!
The loop trail was still as awesome as it had been back in 2018! Most of the boardwalks and stairs that Lupe came to were still in great shape. Many looked almost new, and the stairs usually had handrails. At this late hour, Lupe enjoyed perfect solitude, although for a while the roar of traffic could still be heard back along the Dempster Highway.
The trail wandered SW through the boreal forest up and down small hills, ridges, and valleys, past cliffs and walls of rock, with occasional glimpses of more distant views from minor high points.
The loop trail eventually began curving slowly toward the NW. Gaining elevation, Lupe soon reached the upper S end of the ridge overlooking Campbell Lake. Beyond a gap, a ridge of similar height and appearance was now visible toward the SW, and the wide valley S of Campbell Lake was coming into view to the W.
Continuing NW, once the trail reached the line of bluffs overlooking Campbell Lake, it turned NE. Until now, the route had been completely obvious and easy to follow. Up here, though, the trail was braided. Despite the presence of a few markers, it wasn’t always clear whether the American Dingo was on the official trail, or not.
Most of the braiding was due to the fact that the big views were often a little off-trail toward the NW, right along the very edge. Not wanting to miss a thing, Lupe visited as many of these best viewpoints as she could. At first, she saw many ponds and the course of the Campbell River down in the broad valley. Farther on, more of Campbell Lake came into view, stretching far off to the NNE beneath a dreary sky.
Returning briefly to the official trail, Lupe hopped up onto a big rock near a long, very straight and vertical wall of the same material.
8-13-23, 10:10 PM, 50ºF – 10 minutes after abandoning the big rock, Lupe reached the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Loop High Point (385 ft.), which was a short distance off-trail again. From the edge of nearby bluffs, the biggest expanse yet of Campbell Lake was in sight, and from the actual high point, virtually the entire region S of the lake was in view, too.
Just think, Loop! The giant Mackenzie River delta is on the far side of the bluffs across the lake. During the spring melt-off, when the N flowing river is choked with ice, it sometimes backs all the way up into Campbell Lake, flooding the entire region we’re seeing S of it, too.
Campbell Lake must look like an ocean then, SPHP!
In a sense, it is, Loopster. We aren’t that far from Mackenzie Bay where the river empties into the Beaufort Sea.
Although Lupe would never be here at that time of year, it was fun to think about the dramatic scenes and events of the far N wilderness that only wildlife and very few people ever experience.
8-14-23, 10:25 AM – SPHP put away the pen.
Trip journal’s all caught up again. How about a morning constitutional, Loop? You up for it? We can take the spur trail to the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii observation deck before heading on.
Silly question! Of course the Carolina Dog wanted to go! The spur trail was even shorter than SPHP remembered from 2018. Encouraged to move right along by mosquitoes that hadn’t been present at all during yesterday evening’s hike, but which were out in force now, 5 minutes and Lupe was already at the observation deck, enjoying a view of Campbell Lake again.
In addition to the views, several plaques were on display.
8-14-23, 11:52 AM, Dempster Highway, NWT km 266 –
SPHP, isn’t that the Jak Territorial Park tower?
Yup. We’re nearly to Inuvik, Loopster. Want to stop in and see if the tower has been repaired yet?
Sure, it’s been 5 years, SPHP. If they’re ever going to fix it, it ought to be done by now.
The 10 meter high tower had been closed to the public and Dingoes, too, when Lupe had last been here in 2018. No such disappointment today, though. Happily, the tower was open! Only 6 km from Inuvik, the tower featured views of the vast Mackenzie River delta, the campground next to the tower, and many informational displays.
Lupe got excited when a helicopter flew by the tower with a big bucket of water dangling beneath it, no doubt intending to dump it on a fire somewhere. However, there was no sign of smoke in any direction.
I think the Arctic apocalypse is over, SPHP. At least around here.
8-14-23, 12:23 PM, NWT km 272 – Nooooooo! It was gone! The iconic sign at the entrance to Inuvik that had been here in 2018 was no more. In it’s place was a piece of modern art evoking the aurora borealis. Nice enough, but in SPHP’s estimation it didn’t hold a candle to the old sign. The American Dingo ventured no opinion one way or another.
Inuvik was the traditional N end of the 737 km long Dempster Highway, and the end of the journey N, except during the winter on the frozen Mackenzie River ice road. However, as in 2018, Inuvik was not destined to be the end of Lupe’s adventures N today, for on November 15, 2017, the 148 km long all-season Highway 10 extension to Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic Ocean opened up.
Time enough for that in a bit. Inuvik was the only town of significant size anywhere between Dawson City way back in the Yukon clear to the Arctic Ocean. Spending a little time in Inuvik, SPHP bought supplies at North Mart, and joined Lupe in a tour of some of the sights.
So what did you get us in North Mart, SPHP?
Well, let’s see, Loop. Orange juice …
Yuk!
A roasted chicken …
Oh, excellent! I’m famished, SPHP. Let’s eat it now!
Potato chips …
I like those, too!
Allsorts licorice candy …
All yours, SPHP!
That was about it. Lupe couldn’t wait to tear into the delicious roasted chicken, most of which was immediately consumed while still parked downtown in the RAV4. SPHP hit the Allsorts, chugged some orange juice, then drove to the North Wind gas bar.
$2.22 CAN per liter, Loopster!
It’s a long walk, SPHP. Fill’er up, and let’s roll!
8-14-23, 2:38 PM – Heading N out of town on Highway 10, SPHP tore open the big bag of potato chips.
Want some, Loop?
Don’t mind if I do, SPHP!
SPHP tossed a handful of chips onto Lupe’s pink blanket, replenishing her supply whenever it ran low. Beneath the cloudy sky, the RAV4 sped N through a green, gently rolling landscape, as Lupe and SPHP both munched happily away.
On your way to the Arctic Ocean, Looper! Not many Dingoes can ever say that! What an adventure, aye?
Happens every now and then when you’re the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, SPHP!
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Lupe’s Tithegeh Chii Vitaii Loop Trail GPS Track
The Dempster Highway Travelogue
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.
