Arctic Ocean – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Tuktoyaktuk – Land of the Pingos & The Arctic Ocean, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-14-23 to 8-16-23)

Part 2 of Day 24, Day 25 & Part 1 of Day 26 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-14-23, 3:00 PM – After leaving Inuvik, the Mackenzie River delta was in sight off to the W, but before long the river and Hwy 10 angled away from each other. As the RAV4 cruised along at a comfortable 35 to 40 mph, the mutual potato chip feast went on until Lupe didn’t want any more. SPHP then switched to orange juice and Allsorts licorice.

Outside, the weather was a balmy 50°F, with low clouds hanging across the sky from horizon to horizon. Passing through a region of numerous lakes, Hwy 10 stayed up on the high ground, to the extent that there was any, as much as possible. A thin boreal forest soon vanished completely. Low bushes and tundra covered the land.

Back in 2018, Lupe had seen many people picking berries in this region, but no one was out there today. Instead, the Carolina Dog saw groups of snowmobiles sitting alone on the tundra, their controls wrapped in tarps or plastic, apparently pre-positioned for winter’s eventual arrival.

The entire region from **Inuvik** to **Tuktoyaktuk** is a land of lakes and ponds.

We’re doing great, Loopster! Heard a lot of people complaining about how bad this highway was. So terribly washboardy and rough that some even turned around. Isn’t bad at all in the RAV4, though. Bumpy sections and potholes every now and then, but that’s true of most any gravel road.

How far is it to Tuktoyaktuk from Inuvik, SPHP?

Oh, I’ve seen figures anywhere from 140 to nearly 150 km, Loop. Think I saw a sign as we left Inuvik that said 148. A couple of hours at this rate, and we’ll be there.

As the journey N continued, the lakes visible in all directions tended to get larger and more numerous. Despite a fair amount of truck traffic, and lack of pullouts, SPHP parked briefly by the side of the road every now and then, so Lupe could get out to sniff the air and look around.

One of countless unnamed lakes seen from Hwy 10.

A really big lake eventually appeared off to the E.

Is that the ocean, SPHP?

Technically, probably not, Looper. The maps show a string of big lakes called the Eskimo or Husky Lakes that are all interconnected. It appears they drain NE into Liverpool Bay, which is an arm of the Beaufort Sea. Even if they aren’t part of the ocean, they can’t be much above sea level.

After a while, even the Eskimo Lakes were left behind. SPHP continued to stop briefly near lakes that had particularly interesting shapes.

When small hills began appearing in the distance, Lupe’s journey N was almost over. The American Dingo had reached the land of the pingos.

8-14-23, 5:10 PM – The only pullout along Hwy 10 appeared roughly 10 km from Tuktoyaktuk. Lupe could already see Ibyuk Pingo, the second highest pingo on earth from here. Displays included a map, and a list of services available in Tuktoyaktuk.

The map was interesting. However, overcome by weariness after many long days of Lupe adventures, what SPHP needed most of all was not a map, but a nap.

8-14-23, 7:24 PM – A couple hours of blissful unconsciousness had SPHP feeling much more alert. A mile or 2 past the only Hwy 10 pullout, Lupe was now at the “Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk – Land of the Pingos” sign for the first time in 5 years. Both Ibyuk Pingo and Split Pingo were in sight across Tareoknitok Lagoon.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L of Center) and **Split Pingo** (far R). Photo looks W.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (Center). Photo looks W.

It’s great being back in the Land of the Pingos, SPHP!

Absolutely, Loop! It’s a world that’s seldom seen. Shall we head into Tuk?

As far N as we can go, SPHP!

Pingo Canadian Landmark was just a bit farther. After another quick look at the pingos from the boat launch, Lupe’s next stop on the way into Tuktoyaktuk was more discouraging. Near the edge of the ocean, within view of the pingos, flocks of seagulls and ravens were busy picking through the unsightly discarded refuse of the human race.

A less than scintillating **introduction to Tuktoyaktuk**.

A worldwide problem with no easy solutions.

**Ravens** and **seagulls** seeking something of value amid the rubble.

Are you humans ever going to do anything about this, SPHP? It’s a really bad introduction to Tuktoyaktuk. Will it be this way forever?

I don’t know, Loopster. The best that can be said about it is that at least we haven’t pitched it all in the ocean yet. Maybe it can still be cleaned up some fine day, but who knows when?

The dump right by the ocean on the way into Tuktoyaktuk was nothing new. It had been here in 2018, too. During the drive through town, the rest of Tuk didn’t initially look much different, either. However, there were some changes. A new visitor center was on the R before entering the village, and the old one at the N end of Beaufort Road overlooking the Arctic Ocean had been removed to make room for more campsites.

The **Arctic Ocean** from the **campground and day use area** at the **N end of Beaufort Road** in **Tuktoyaktuk**. Photo looks WNW.

**Nunaryuam Qaangani Tariuq** had been added since Lupe was here back in 2018. Photo looks WNW.

8-14-23, 8:01 PM, Tuktoyaktuk campground, N end of Beaufort Road – This was it, the end of the line! Parked near the group shelter, the RAV4 was as far N as the road went anywhere in Canada. Back in 2018, the year after Hwy 10 opened, camping or overnight parking here was free. Now it was a cool $63.00 CAN.

Let’s have a look around Loopster!

There were still benches, picnic tables, and campfire barrels overlooking the Arctic Ocean, but SPHP was surprised to see that the large amount of driftwood that had been here in 2018, carried in on the currents, winds, and waves from the Mackenzie River delta, had vanished. Other than a few big, weather-beaten logs, scarcely a stick left!

Our Lady of Lourdes was still parked nearby, forlornly looking out over the Beaufort Sea which she had once plied, long, long ago.

Of course, the Arctic Ocean was the main attraction, in truth, the entire reason Lupe had come so far. Enjoying the view ocean view from the dark rocks and concrete slabs of the seawall was a must!

So awesome just being here, Looper!

Let’s do the walk along the beach, SPHP.

8-14-23, 9:20 PM, Tuktoyaktuk – The best walk along the ocean started farther S. Could have easily walked to the N end from the campground, but instead SPHP drove down to Grandma’s Kitchen, parking the RAV4 near the S end of Lupe’s 2018 traditional stroll along the Arctic Ocean.

No Dingo bans, access restrictions, or required guided tour fees here in Tuktoyaktuk, Canada like there were in Deadhorse, Alaska! At least, not yet. Lupe took full advantage. The entire walk along the beach was 0.8 mile one way. What a fabulous, rare treat!

**Lupe** enjoying her **traditional stroll** along the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks N.

No rush. Lupe sniffed here and there at will as little waves rippled ashore. Meanwhile, SPHP ambled along gathering a plastic grocery sack’s worth of trash, easily filling it long before the N end of the stroll was reached where the dark rocks of the seawall began. Once there, it was time to turn around and enjoy the incredible experience all over again on the way back to Grandma’s kitchen.

On the **dark rocks of the seawall** near the N end of the stroll. Photo looks NNW.

Heading back to Grandma’s Kitchen. Photo looks SSE.

8-14-23, 10:00 PM, Tuktoyaktuk – Back at the campground, SPHP parked the RAV4 by some of the picnic tables.

Back at the **N end of Beaufort Road**. Photo looks NNW.

C’mon, Loopster! Let’s hang around here for a while. Tide’s out! We can take the short walk out onto the spit where the locals like to fish.

**Map of Tuktoyaktuk** posted near the spit.

Near the end of the spit, a girl named Lydia was very happy. She had just caught the first fish that she’d ever caught in her life. She very kindly permitted an American Dingo to inspect her prize.

**Lupe** inspects **Lydia’s fresh catch**.

Sniffs strongly of the sea, SPHP.

I’d be surprised, if it didn’t, Looper. I’m sort of jealous. Bigger than any fish I’ve ever caught.

8-15-23, 12:02 AM – Back in 2018, Lupe had spent a cold evening under her little brown blanket in the RAV4 while SPHP burned driftwood in one of the campground fire barrels. What an incredible experience that had been, huddling by the fire in the twilight while watching the wood burn and staring out at the surf rolling in from the Arctic Ocean.

Sadly, no driftwood around to burn now. Even so, the Carolina Dog hung around the campground until well past midnight. Mid-August, but still light out. Awesome!

**Midnight** at the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks NNW.

8-15-23, 7:19 AM, 49ºF – A whole day to spend in Tuktoyaktuk! It began with a drive out to the Pingo Canadian Landmark. With the help of the telephoto lens, SPHP got a couple close ups of Ibyuk Pingo (161 ft.) and Split Pingo from across the lagoon.

I was hoping for a sunnier day, Looper. The pingos look a bit drab with all these clouds around.

Nothing to be done about that, SPHP. Let’s head back into Tuk. Time for my now traditional Tuktoyaktuk tour!

Returning to Hwy 10, a huge bird was sitting on top of a very tall post. To SPHP’s surprise, it didn’t fly off at the American Dingo’s approach.

Loopster! Come back! That bird means business!

What kind of bird is it, SPHP?

A hawk, or maybe an eagle? I don’t know, Loop. Might even be an osprey. Some kind of a raptor, that’s for sure. One that eats fish, and …

And Dingoes, SPHP?

Like I said, come back! We don’t want to find out.

Lupe’s tour of Tuktoyaktuk began with a look at some of the buildings seen along Hwy 10 on the way into town.

Some of the **first buildings** on the way into **Tuktoyaktuk**.

Lupe had seen these same **rusty pale blue tanks** in 2018, too. Apparently the Tuk paint shortage still hadn’t been alleviated yet in 2023.

Approaching **Tuk** from the SE. **Paniksak Pingo (36 ft.)** (Center). Photo looks NW.

After driving through the center of town back to the campground at the N end of Beaufort Road, SPHP parked the RAV4. Lupe’s walking tour of Tuktoyaktuk began at the Trans Canada Trail monument marking the trail’s N terminus.

Before heading S, a quick look at the facilities at the end of the road was in order. Wandering past the restrooms and group shelter, Lupe visited the kmpost marker and an old sled, both near the start of the fishing spit where Lydia caught her big fish last night.

**End of the road** in **Tuk**. **Restrooms** (Center in dark blue) next to the **group shelter**.

An **old sled** at the start of the **spit**.

The **fishing spit** from the **kmpost**. At high tide, most of the spit is submerged.

Satisfied without going clear out to the end of the spit, since the tide was coming in, the Carolina Dog now headed S along Beaufort Road, passing the campground sites overlooking the Arctic Ocean and Our Lady of Lourdes again.

A L turn onto Centennial Road led to a couple of sod houses.

Can you image facing a long Arctic winter in that, Looper? Grim!

Not as grim as not having a sod house, SPHP. I’ll take wintering in our house in the Black Hills over it any day, though.

Continuing to wander the side streets of Tuktoyaktuk, near the end of Liusa Road, Lupe took a shortcut over a hill that may have been a small pingo. Up here, she made a new friend. A local dog with a sore L rear paw decided to join the tour.

Lupe with her new friend. Photo looks ESE.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L) and **Split Pingo** (Center). **Arctic Ocean** (R). Photo looks SSW.

As Lupe and her new friend continued to explore the side streets of Tuk, everywhere they went, they triggered a chorus of protest from dogs that wanted to join the tour, but were tied up or otherwise confined.

It was getting to be a bit ridiculous. The American Dingo and her friend soon had all of Tuktoyaktuk howling in dismay. SPHP wasn’t entirely disappointed when this new friend finally decided it might be time to go back home, wherever that was, and Lupe reached the beach again near Grandma’s Kitchen.

**Homes** on **Ocean View Road** close to **Grandma’s Kitchen**.

Thankfully, back to the serenity of the **beach**. Photo looks WSW.

As usual, the stroll along the tranquil, silvery sea was soothing, a treat for body and soul. This time, once Lupe got to the N end of the beach, she turned E to Beaufort Road before heading N past the cemetery.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L), **Split Pingo** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

By the **Beaufort Sea**. Photo looks NW.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (Center), **Split Pingo** (R). Photo looks S.

Passing the **cemetery**. Photo looks NW.

8-15-23, 2:40 PM, 55ºF – The campground and day use area were almost empty when Lupe got back to the RAV4, which was parked at the highest spot facing the ocean. Watching the waves roll in while sharing sardines and Ritz crackers, the mood eventually turned more festive when a tour bus arrived.

Moving to a picnic table, SPHP munched on trail mix and chatted with other tourists. Lupe spent her time searching in vain for a marmot that knew the ins and outs of the passages between the rocks of the seawall.

Up on one of the seawall’s concrete slabs.

8-15-23, 5:00 PM – SPHP woke from a pleasant hour long nap.

Campground’s filling up, SPHP.

Yeah, I see that, Loop. Guess we better move or pay for a spot before they kick us out.

Driving S out of Tuktoyaktuk to the new visitor center, SPHP came out with 2 certificates for Lupe.

**Lupe’s Certificate for traveling Highway 10, the Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk highway.**

**Lupe’s Certificate for dipping her paw in the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk.**

8-15-23, 5:45 PM – SPHP parked the RAV4 at the empty ballfield.

Another stroll along the beach, Loop? Plenty of time for it.

How often are we in Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP? We better enjoy it to the utmost while we can.

Cutting over to the seawall rocks near the N end of the beach, the trek S to Grandma’s Kitchen began anew.

I don’t know how you do it, Loopster. Way too rocky for me to go barepaw here, but do you mind if I find a spot along these rocks where I can take my boots and socks off and stand in the Arctic Ocean for a few minutes?

Have at it, SPHP. You need to toughen those paws up.

Lupe along the seawall rocks. Taken while SPHP was standing a foot deep in the Arctic Ocean! Photo looks NNE.

I’ve been picking up a new rock for your rock collection every time we take this stroll, Looper. Let me know if you see one you like as we go along.

Good thinking, SPHP! Mind showing what you’ve got for me so far?

The pebbles SPHP selected during the 2 prior strolls along the beach.

Two local girls made a couple of passes up and down the beach on an ATV. Other than that, the beach was deserted. The air was calm. Even the ocean barely had a ripple. Soft rays of light descended on the silver sea from weaknesses in the clouds. All too soon on this magical evening, Grandma’s Kitchen was in sight, and it was time to turn back again.

**Grandma’s Kitchen** is the **blue-gray building** at Center with the **white addition**. Photo looks E.

Halfway back to the N end of the beach, it was decision time.

OK, Loop. I’ve got 5 candidates for your rock collection. We’ve only done our beach stroll 3 times, so you can pick the 3 rocks you want to keep, and we’ll leave the others.

4 of the choices. New ones on the L, old ones on the R.

Do I have to keep the first 2 that you already showed me, SPHP?

Nope. Select the 3 you like best, Loopster.

They’re all unique and different from each other, SPHP.

That’s on purpose, Looper, so it’s a real choice. Made up your mind yet?

Yes.

And?

Let’s keep them all, SPHP. It’s a nice set, an Arctic Ocean sampler!

Well, why not? The price was right, and they were all just pebbles. Not like they were going to take up a lot of space, or weigh much.

The rest of the evening was spent up at the campground. SPHP chatted with the other tourists. Lupe had 2 dogs to play with, Beans and Mason, but they were both gigantic. Instead, the Carolina Dog preferred her pink blanket in the RAV4, growling whenever Beans or Mason got too close during their 3 hour frolic and wrestling match.

8-16-23, 8:15 AM, 46ºF – Foggy and a bit breezy, as Lupe set out from the baseball diamond to head over to the beach. This would be her last stroll along the Arctic Ocean to Grandma’s Kitchen. The tide was out, and on the way back, change was in the air. The fog dissipated, and it even seemed like the clouds were starting to break up.

Blue sky, SPHP!

Wow, you’re right, Loop! Is it possible we’ll get to see the sun before we leave Tuk?

Heading back N during the **final stroll** along the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks NNE.

Instead of returning to the RAV4 at the ball park when her final stroll along the Arctic Ocean was done, Lupe trotted N on Beaufort Road. Sure enough, the sun was shining by the time she passed the cemetery.

Upon reaching the campground, Lupe went all the way to the end of the fishing spit. The clouds were gone! For the first time since arriving in Tuktoyaktuk, the American Dingo stood in bright sunshine. Instead of silver, the sea was blue.

After standing there a few minutes on this beautiful morning, admiring the sea and sky and village of Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations, Loopster, on making it back to Tuk and the Arctic Ocean!

Thank you, SPHP! It’s been fun. Are we really going back S today?

We’re at the end of the road N, Loop, and it’s time.

Leaving the spit, Lupe went back to the massive concrete slabs of the sea wall for a last look at the open sea. Heading S didn’t seem right.

Back on the concrete slabs of the seawall. Photo looks SW.

The **Arctic Ocean** in blue. Photo looks NE

A morning like this is made for great deeds, SPHP! We ought to be setting out for Baffin Island to see Mount Thor!

SPHP smiled.

We think alike, Sweet Puppy! If only, but your next great deeds are S. Fear not! We’ll have a fantastic time. Promise!

Passing the campground, SPHP bid farewell to some of the other tourists met over the past couple of days, who were just beginning to stir before heading S themselves. Lupe then proceeded S on Beaufort Road to the RAV4 still waiting at the baseball diamond.

8-16-23, 10:04 AM, 51ºF – Instead of driving S, SPHP turned the RAV4 N.

One more look from the Arctic Ocean sign? What do you say, Loopster?

The Carolina Dog’s answer was a foregone conclusion.

To the **Arctic Ocean** at **Tuktoyaktuk**! What a grand adventure it had been!

Next to the Arctic Ocean sign, Lupe and the RAV4 were both pointed S. SPHP took the shot.

Great pose, Looper! Thank you. It’s time. Onward! Puppy, ho!

8-16-23, 10:15 AM – RAV4 purring smoothly, Lupe left Tuktoyaktuk. Not done here quite yet, though. 5 miles out of town, a last stop was ahead.

8-16-23, 10:27 AM – Across Tareoknitok Lagoon, illuminated by sunshine, both Ibyuk Pingo (161 ft.), second tallest in the world, and Split Pingo were seen more clearly than before.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L), **Split Pingo** (R). Photo looks W.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (Center) beyond **Tareoknitok Lagoon**.

Baffin Island! Silly us, SPHP. We haven’t even made it across Tareoknitok Lagoon!

I know. We’re just a couple of dreamers, Loop.

Dreams are fine, SPHP. It all starts with a dream, but dreams rarely amount to much without action.

True enough, Looper. Speaking of which, our time for action has arrived. Say good-bye to the Land of the Pingos.

A final lingering look, and Lupe was back on her pink blanket in the RAV4, rolling S to whatever next great adventure was in store.

In the **Land of the Pingos**, **Tuktoyaktuk**, Northwest Territories, Canada 8-16-23

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Arctic Ocean beach GPS Track

Lupe’s Tuktoyaktuk fishing spit GPS Track

Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk Highway No. 10

Lupe’s Stay at the Arctic Ocean, Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-20-18 & 8-21-18)

To the Arctic Ocean on the New All-Season Road from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-19-18)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Lupe’s Stay at the Arctic Ocean, Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-20-18 & 8-21-18)

Days 17 & 18 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-20-18, 6:05 AM, 42°F, Pingo Canadian Landmark – Colder this morning, with a uniformly gray sky. Lupe had scarcely seen the sun yesterday, and today didn’t look to be any different. A light, but chilly W breeze blew across Tareoknitok Lagoon from over by Ibyuk and Split Pingos. Lupe watched as fog moved in and swallowed them whole.

Might as well snooze a bit longer.

A while later, Loop was awake again. No longer foggy, but nothing else had changed. Still overcast, still 42°F with a breeze. Today was the only whole day Lupe was going to get to spend in Tuktoyaktuk. If she wanted to make the most of it, the Carolina Dog had better get going. SPHP started up the G6. Within minutes, Lupe was heading back into Tuk.

Lupe had first arrived in Tuktoyaktuk late yesterday afternoon, so she’d already seen some of the main highlights, including, of course, the Arctic Ocean, the main reason everyone comes to Tuk. Today she was going to look around town a bit more carefully before enjoying another lovely romp along the ocean.

Pingo Canadian Landmark, where Lupe had spent the night, is 5 km from town near the “Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk, Land of the Pingos” sign by Tareoknitok Lagoon, the first part of the Arctic Ocean seen on the way into Tuk. The next part of Tuktoyaktuk that had come into view was also the worst. Highway 10 goes right by the unsightly Tuktoyaktuk dump.

Lupe reached Tuktoyaktuk yesterday afternoon. The first indication she had arrived was this welcoming sign by Tareoknitok Lagoon, 5 km prior to actually reaching the village.

The worst comes first! Shortly after reaching the Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk sign, the highway goes past this unsightly dump. Ugh!

After the landfill, though, things get somewhat better. The next thing Lupe saw was a curious one, a cove packed with driftwood. Surprising, since no trees grow anywhere near Tuktoyaktuk, but there is a logical explanation. The driftwood originates from the giant Mackenzie River to the W, and is brought in by ocean currents, wind, and waves.

Driftwood packed into a cove. All the driftwood near Tuk originates from the enormous Mackenzie River to the W.

For a few km beyond the driftwood-laden cove, Highway 10 winds past a number of widely scattered industrial sites. Whether these installations are somehow connected with an energy industry down on its luck, or serve some other purpose wasn’t entirely clear. It all reminded SPHP of what Lupe had seen a year ago in Deadhorse, Alaska, but on a much smaller, less prosperous scale.

One of the scattered industrial sites on the way into Tuktoyaktuk.

This building reminded SPHP of some of the hotels where oilfield workers live that Lupe had seen in Deadhorse, Alaska near Prudhoe Bay in 2017.

After passing the industrial outskirts, Highway 10 goes by a big pond as it enters the village of Tuktoyaktuk. Bob’s gas station (apparently the only gas station in town) was on the R shortly after going by the pond.

Highway 10 as it is about to enter Tuktoyaktuk.

Bob’s gas station, critical infrastructure as far as SPHP and the G6 were concerned, was on the R as Lupe entered town. At $1.68/L Canadian, prices were actually a little lower here than they had been in Inuvik.

Tuktoyaktuk has over 1,000 residents, a number which might grow with the increase in tourism made possible by Highway 10, the new all-season road from Inuvik that opened in November, 2017. Highway 10 was how Lupe had made it to Tuk!

Certainly, the much improved access provided by Highway 10 increases the potential for big changes as Tuk gets better known and businesses consider investing. It was still early in that game, though. In August 2018, as Lupe toured it today, Tuktoyaktuk still looked like an isolated Arctic village. Streets were all dirt. Homes were simple, and up on stilts. Small yards were all dirt, gravel, or natural tundra. Assorted pickup trucks, cars, snowmobiles and ATV’s were parked outside.

One of the attractions Lupe hadn’t visited in Tuktoyaktuk yesterday was the “Pingo with a Trail”, which was on the L shortly after passing Bob’s gas station. That was something the American Dingo could do! Looper was all for the idea.

The Pingo with a Trail might have been 40 feet high. Lupe scampered to the top in only a minute or two. A green bench provided a restful spot from which to take in the surprisingly good views of Tuktoyaktuk and general surroundings. The Arctic Ocean was in sight, too.

Looper was all for visiting this “**Pingo with a Trail**“! More than 1350 pingos are in the Tuktoyaktuk region. This modest one was right in town, and provided good views.

By the green bench at the summit of the “Pingo with a Trail”. Photo looks E.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L) and **Split Pingo** (Center) from the Pingo with a Trail. Photo looks SSW.

Looking W toward the **Arctic Ocean** over part of Tuktoyaktuk.

Looking toward the N end of Tuktoyaktuk. The **Arctic Ocean** is in the distance on the L. **Tuktoyaktuk Harbor** is on the R. Photo looks N.

House at the base of the Pingo with a Trail.

After visiting the Pingo with a Trail, Lupe and SPHP drove around Tuk a bit. It was Monday, and traffic consisted mainly of white pickup trucks. Lupe went past some sod houses, but they didn’t strike her fancy. In the evening yesterday, there had been a well-attended baseball game going on in a muddy field. Lots of kids and dogs had been out and about. Near the ocean, children had been bouncing on a trampoline.

Not too much was going on today, though, perhaps because it was colder out. No boats were out on the ocean, or in the harbor. Tuktoyaktuk has an airport, but Lupe hadn’t seen any planes land or take off. Some of the larger buildings in Tuk were in better condition than most of the homes, but the Carolina Dog couldn’t go into any of them.

Lupe and SPHP soon wound up at the park near the visitor information center at the far N end of Tuktoyaktuk. This park was where the tourist facilities were along the Arctic Ocean. Loop sniffed and explored while SPHP made lunch at one of the picnic tables.

Several pickup trucks with campers were around. SPHP chatted with three missionaries for a while. Lupe met Peter, a fellow adventurer and explorer. Peter was from the Czech Republic, and had spent the last 2.5 months bicycling here solo clear across Canada from New Brunswick! From Tuktoyaktuk, he planned on continuing S into the United States and Latin America. Mind-boggling!

The sun never appeared. The gray sky matched the gray sea. A steady stream of tourists came by, but the breeze was a bit chilly. Many didn’t stay long. Photo ops by the Arctic Ocean, a few minutes looking at the waves, and they were on their way.

It was fun for Lupe to have seen more of Tuktoyaktuk today, but the main attraction, and whole reason the Carolina Dog had come all this way, was to see the Arctic Ocean. After lunch was over and done with, and there was a lull in people happening by, it was time to repeat the leisurely stroll Loop had enjoyed yesterday evening along the ocean.

The possibly stray dog that Lupe had met yesterday, had come around during lunch seeking handouts again. By now, SPHP had thought long and hard, and had come up with the clever nickname “Tuk” for her. Tuk decided to join Lupe and SPHP.

By the cemetery on Beaufort Road a little S of the park at the N end of Tuktoyaktuk. Photo looks W.

Abandoning the G6 at the park for now, Lupe, Tuk and SPHP headed S on Beaufort Road. After passing the cemetery, Loop led the way back to the ocean behind an apartment building to the W. A short trek S brought her to the same nice stretch of shoreline along Kugmallit Bay that Lupe had visited yesterday.

Not another soul out here. The beach wasn’t terribly long, so there was no rush at all. Walking slowly, SPHP gazed out at the restless, remote sea at the top of the world, while enjoying the whole incredible experience of actually being at the Arctic Ocean. Loop and Tuk ran and explored, sometimes together, sometimes going their own separate ways.

Lupe on her second romp along **Kugmallit Bay** since arriving in Tuktoyaktuk. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe and “Tuk”, the possibly stray dog who often showed up at the park to panhandle. **Ibyuk Pingo** (L) and **Split Pingo** (Center) in the distance. Photo looks SSW.

“Tuk” with **Split Pingo** (R) in the background.

“Tuk” eventually realized this trek wasn’t likely to result in a meal. Lupe and SPHP were left alone. At the S end of the beach, Loopster followed the shoreline E along a sheltered cove as far as possible before reaching private property, going a little farther than she had yesterday.

At the end of the beach trek. Photo looks S.

On the way back, a lone seagull came by, and landed on the ocean. SPHP picked out another rock as a souvenir to add to Lupe’s collection. Waves kept rolling in. A little more than an hour after Loop’s second splendid journey along the Arctic Ocean began, it was over, too.

Turning back near the end of the trek. Photo looks WSW.

Later, at the park at the N end of Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP heated up clam chowder for dinner. Loop didn’t care for it, preferring Ritz crackers. She must not have been too hungry, as she scarcely touched her Alpo.

“Tuk” reappeared on another panhandling run, and this time was in luck. SPHP gave Tuk some of Lupe’s Taste of the Wild, a whole can of Alpo, and a couple different types of treats Loop had recently received from Pupjoy – Lamb Airy Bites and Coconut Shrimp. Tuk inhaled it all in seconds, looking like 5 times that much would have been preferred. SPHP wondered whether Tuk had a home? Hard to contemplate what might soon be in store for Tuk, if not. Summer was practically over.

The tide was coming in. Lupe and SPHP went over to the spit of big rocks at the N end of the park to watch the ocean gradually submerge formerly exposed seabed. More pingos were in sight on a distant shore.

At the N end of the park watching the tide come in. Photo looks NE.

Several pingos looking merely like small bumps are strung out along the distant shore. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Evening. Half a dozen pickup trucks with campers were around now, evidently here for the night, but hardly anyone was outside. Along the W edge of the park, just beyond the picnic tables, an embankment of large dark rocks protected the shoreline from the waves of Kugmallit Bay. Scattered among these rocks were large amounts of driftwood.

The ocean breeze was cool, and getting cooler. A fire would be nice! Lupe came along to sniff, while SPHP gathered driftwood. A fire was soon going. SPHP slowly nursed it into a larger and larger bonfire, until it actually threw off some decent heat, if one stood close enough.

A woman came by selling moccasins she had made by hand out of moose hide and seal skin. She was friendly and chatty, but soon discovered she had forgotten to bring any moccasins with her. She left to go back home to get them. After a while, she did return. The moccasins were darling, skillfully made, but for little children or babies. The woman never said how much she wanted for them. She did say she could make 2.5 pairs per day. When SPHP didn’t have a use for them, she moved on looking for someone else to talk to.

After a while, a fog moved in, and it got noticeably colder. Lupe was ready to call it a day. SPHP let her into the G6, and drew her blankie over her. The Carolina Dog settled in for an Arctic Ocean snooze, and did not return.

SPHP kept the bonfire going, while watching and listening to the ocean. No one else was out now. The fog lifted, and it got a little warmer again. Off to the N, a long line of brighter sky appeared. For several hours it drew closer, but never arrived. The fire devoured large quantities of driftwood. Poles 5 feet long, and 7 or 8 inches thick, disappeared.

By midnight, nearly all light had faded from the sky. Weary, and a bit cold from the wind, SPHP doused the fire. What an evening it had been, though! Think of it, only 1,426 miles from the top of the world! The rest of the night was spent at desolate Pingo Canadian Landmark.8-21-18, 7:30 AM, 33°F – Tiny snowflakes filled the air as SPHP drove back to the park at the N end of Tuktoyaktuk for the last time. The snow was already over and done with when Lupe arrived to find Peter having breakfast in the park’s open air covered shelter. SPHP chatted with him, while Peter gave Loop a pat. He was about to leave Tuktoyaktuk on his bicycle to begin the next leg of his incredible journey to Latin America.

Wishing Peter good luck and safe travels, Lupe and SPHP set off for a third and final stroll along the Arctic Ocean. The morning breeze was quite cold, but Lupe made the whole wonderful trek again. For the first time since she had arrived in Tuk, patches of blue sky could be seen. The bracing journey was over far too soon, but SPHP did remember to pick out a third souvenir stone from Kugmallit Bay.

Lupe on her final stroll along the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks N.

Not anxious to depart, breakfast was clam chowder again at the same picnic table at the park at the N end of Tuk. SPHP then caught up the trip journal while still enjoying a view of the Arctic Ocean.

10:55 AM, 33°F – What a joyful, incredible experience it had been! The time had come, though, for Lupe to say good-bye, most likely forever, to the Arctic Ocean and Tuktoyaktuk. SPHP was so glad she had come! Lupe got up on a couple of rocks for photos.

A little blue sky appears at the end of Lupe’s stay in Tuktoyaktuk.

And then, for a few final moments, The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stood poised in the chill breeze on the last of the big rocks she would ever be on next to the Arctic Ocean.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood at the **Arctic Ocean**.

Savored briefly, the moment passed.

Puppy, ho! Onward!

For a few minutes, tiny snowflakes again filled the air as SPHP drove out of Tuktoyaktuk after fueling the G6. The American Dingo was leaving the Land of the Pingos! New adventures lay ahead, but the Arctic Ocean was an adventure never to be forgotten.

20 km from Tuk, Lupe saw Peter again! He was pedaling hard, going fast, and waved as the G6 slowed beside him for a few seconds. Lupe barked. SPHP waved back. Peter was smiling as the G6 re-accelerated. For a few seconds he lingered – receding, then vanishing, in the rear view mirror.

The American Dingo was now destined to repeat her long journey N in reverse. Cruising S on Highway 10 to Inuvik, the plan was to head back to the Richardson Mountains on the Yukon border. Hopefully, the weather would have improved since Lupe had left Wright Pass three days ago. Maybe tomorrow the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood could begin climbing a few of the mountains she had skipped on her way N due to poor weather?

11:49 AM, 35°F, Hwy 10 – The silvery Eskimo Lakes, looking like a vast, lonely sea, were on the horizon. Worth a quick stop! Lupe could see a few small hills near the lakes. Perhaps pingos SPHP hadn’t noticed on the way N? Quite likely.

Approaching the **Eskimo Lakes** again, this time on the way S.

**Eskimo Lakes** from Highway 10 with help from the telephoto lens.

2:55 PM, 42°F – Along the Dempster Highway S of Inuvik, SPHP stopped at the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii viewpoint again. Loop needed a break from the G6. This time she took the shorter trail to the R at the first fork. The trail led to a viewpoint from which the Carolina Dog would be able to see Campbell Lake.

Lupe never made it to the end of the trail. A large group of people was ahead of her lingering on a big deck at the viewpoint. Since Loop had seen Campbell lake before, there was no sense in disturbing them. Lupe did go far enough to be able to see part of Campbell Lake again, this time on a prettier day.

Campbell Lake, S of Inuvik, on a prettier day than the first time Lupe had been here. Photo looks NW.

4:53 PM, 44°F, Mackenzie River – At the Mackenzie River, there was a bit of a wait for the MV Louis Cardinal ferry.

The MV Louis Cardinal approaches from the village of Tsiigehtchic. Photo looks SE.

Once aboard the ferry, SPHP recognized a pickup with a camper that Lupe had seen back at Tuktoyaktuk yesterday. SPHP had spoken briefly with the owner, Steve, who was from Alberta. Somewhat surprisingly, Steve appeared outside the G6 on the way over the Mackenzie River. He had important news – a warning, actually.

Steve said he had been amazed to discover that he had internet service on his phone here. He’d just finished checking the weather report. A blizzard was forecast for Eagle Plains and the Richardson Mountains tonight! 80 to 100 kph (50 – 60 mph) winds with 1 to 2 meters (3 – 6 feet) of snow expected! Thought SPHP might like to know. Steve said he was going to try to get to Eagle Plains this evening before the storm hit. At least there were facilities there where he could ride it out.

Gah! Suddenly, that changed everything, didn’t it? Weather forecasts are notoriously over-hyped these days, but even so, if only a fraction of what was predicted came to pass, it spelled the end of any peakbagging hopes Lupe had in the Richardson Mountains. More than a few inches of snow, and the G6 wouldn’t be able to handle it, either.

Summer was about to end. Who knew what getting stranded out here might mean? Big trouble, and a bigger adventure than Loop and SPHP had bargained for, that much was certain. SPHP thought about all the rain that had fallen the night Lupe had spent at the Arctic Circle on the way N. A regular monsoon. If it had been only a few degrees colder out, a meter or two of snow would have fallen back then, easy!

So, as Steve’s pickup pulled away from the ferry after crossing the Mackenzie River, the race to beat the storm was on. Plans demolished, suddenly the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood’s new goal was to flee the true Arctic as fast as possible! Steve was right, she at least had to get to the protection of Eagle Plains.

6:37 PM, 41°F, Peel River – The Dempster Highway had become slick and wet shortly before reaching the Peel River, but the ferry was ready and waiting to go when Lupe arrived. She was across in practically no time, heading for the Richardson Mountains.

7:10 PM, 35°F, Midway Lake – The road is damp, but not as wet as back at the Peel River. The temperature has been dropping, however, and high points ahead are in fog. So far, overall visibility is still good.

7:22 PM, 34°F, 35 km to Wright Pass – Up in the fog now, heading into the first of the Richardson Mountains.

7:43 PM, 32°F – Visibility dropped to as little as 100 yards for a short while, but the road then dropped down into a valley where a rushing stream was on the L. Passed 2 guys on heavily-laden bicycles pedaling hard uphill against the wind. They are still heading N! Wondering how Peter is doing? Maybe he is in Inuvik by now?

Having lost enough elevation to escape the fog, visibility is decent again. More of the Richardson Mountains are ahead, their summits cloaked in fog. The highway is merely damp.

Out of the fog for the moment near the Richardson Mountains.

7:55 PM, 35°F – Can see Wright Pass ahead! Peak 3850 immediately to the S of the pass is in view part of the time, too, plus part of the start of the route to Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.) to the N. Seems like such a shame that Lupe is going to have to shoot straight on over the pass to continue the journey S, but the forecast is simply too dire to ignore.

Approaching **Wright Pass** (L of Center), the border with the Yukon Territory. **Peak 3850** is on the L (S) side of the pass. Photo looks SW.

**Wright Pass** (Center) from the NE with help from the telephoto lens.

8:14 PM, 32°F, Wright Pass – A 30 mph wind is blowing out of the NE over Wright Pass. Only a few minutes ago, Peak 3850 had been visible, but it’s completely hidden by fog now. Too bad, but none of these peaks are going to happen. Lupe must press on. She is already most of the way through the Richardson Mountains now, and can begin her descent down the W side of the range.

Good-bye Northwest Territories, hello Yukon!

Loop takes a stretch W of the Richardson Mountains shortly after going over Wright Pass. Lupe never did get to see much of the Richardson Mountains. Just as foggy now as when she was on her way N.

8:01 PM, 35°F, Rock River campground – Gained an hour upon entering the Yukon Territory at Wright Pass. Out of the mountains, and heading S. Stopped briefly at Lupe’s favorite No. 6 spot at the Rock River campground, site of the great 2018 Yukon Territory Squirrel Rush not so ago. Gave Loop her dinner. Cleaned windows and headlights. Onward!

8:29 PM, 33°F – Nearly due W of Mount Hare (4,070 ft.), yet another peak in the Richardson Mountains that Lupe never got to see, much less climb. 30 mph wind and light rain. Refreshingly brisk outside, but only for a minute, then it’s back into the G6! The road is a pothole mess, but not as wet, and actually in somewhat better condition than when Lupe was headed N. No blizzard has materialized so far.

Due W of Mount Hare somewhere along in here. Photo looks SE.

10:04 AM, 32°F, Eagle Plains – Apparently, some things never change. It was raining steadily by the time Lupe went past the Arctic Circle again. The Dempster Highway was one pothole after another, each jarring jolt launching a sudden spray of dirty water up over the G6. The windows were a complete mess, especially on Lupe’s side, but SPHP kept driving slowly onward.

Getting close to the Arctic Circle again on the way S.

The road was super slick going down into and back up out of the Eagle River valley, but the G6 finally made it to civilization at Eagle Plains.

After fueling the G6, SPHP went into the Eagle Plains Hotel. Restaurant closed for the night, but the bar was open. No rooms left, booked solid. Could park at the campground for $20. No snow yet, but 32°F outside, raining, and yeah, the forecast was abysmal for the next three days. Blizzard due to arrive any time now.

Steve from Alberta, who had given the initial warning about the weather back at the Mackenzie River, appeared. He had been able to drive faster in his pickup, and had made it to Eagle Plains a while ago. Steve said he was going to hang out at the campground here overnight, and wait to see what tomorrow would bring. Another guy said he had just gotten in from Tombstone Territorial Park. The weather was worse down there – heavy rain when he’d left some hours ago.

Decision time. Wait here where there were facilities, and see what the morrow would bring, likely getting snowed in at Eagle Plains, or … ?

Or, what? Try to beat the storm and get all the way back to pavement at the start of the Dempster Highway? Probably impossible, and would that even do any good?

Maybe. SPHP thanked Steve from Alberta for the blizzard warning, then went back out into the storm to join Lupe in the G6. Still 32°F, and still just raining. Not even completely dark out yet. SPHP turned the key. The G6 lit up, and sprang to life.

The adventures just keep coming, don’t they Loopster?

No room at the inn, SPHP?

Nope. No vacancy. Sorry about that.

The Carolina Dog heaved a great sigh, and stared out at the long, wet road ahead. A room would have been nice.

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

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