Arctic Ocean – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Lupe’s Stay at the Arctic Ocean, Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-20-18 & 8-21-18)

Days 17 & 18 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-20-18, 6:05 AM, 42°F, Pingo Canadian Landmark – Colder this morning, with a uniformly gray sky. Lupe had scarcely seen the sun yesterday, and today didn’t look to be any different. A light, but chilly W breeze blew across Tareoknitok Lagoon from over by Ibyuk and Split Pingos. Lupe watched as fog moved in and swallowed them whole.

Might as well snooze a bit longer.

A while later, Loop was awake again. No longer foggy, but nothing else had changed. Still overcast, still 42°F with a breeze. Today was the only whole day Lupe was going to get to spend in Tuktoyaktuk. If she wanted to make the most of it, the Carolina Dog had better get going. SPHP started up the G6. Within minutes, Lupe was heading back into Tuk.

Lupe had first arrived in Tuktoyaktuk late yesterday afternoon, so she’d already seen some of the main highlights, including, of course, the Arctic Ocean, the main reason everyone comes to Tuk. Today she was going to look around town a bit more carefully before enjoying another lovely romp along the ocean.

Pingo Canadian Landmark, where Lupe had spent the night, is 5 km from town near the “Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk, Land of the Pingos” sign by Tareoknitok Lagoon, the first part of the Arctic Ocean seen on the way into Tuk. The next part of Tuktoyaktuk that had come into view was also the worst. Highway 10 goes right by the unsightly Tuktoyaktuk dump.

Lupe reached Tuktoyaktuk yesterday afternoon. The first indication she had arrived was this welcoming sign by Tareoknitok Lagoon, 5 km prior to actually reaching the village.

The worst comes first! Shortly after reaching the Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk sign, the highway goes past this unsightly dump. Ugh!

After the landfill, though, things get somewhat better. The next thing Lupe saw was a curious one, a cove packed with driftwood. Surprising, since no trees grow anywhere near Tuktoyaktuk, but there is a logical explanation. The driftwood originates from the giant Mackenzie River to the W, and is brought in by ocean currents, wind, and waves.

Driftwood packed into a cove. All the driftwood near Tuk originates from the enormous Mackenzie River to the W.

For a few km beyond the driftwood-laden cove, Highway 10 winds past a number of widely scattered industrial sites. Whether these installations are somehow connected with an energy industry down on its luck, or serve some other purpose wasn’t entirely clear. It all reminded SPHP of what Lupe had seen a year ago in Deadhorse, Alaska, but on a much smaller, less prosperous scale.

One of the scattered industrial sites on the way into Tuktoyaktuk.

This building reminded SPHP of some of the hotels where oilfield workers live that Lupe had seen in Deadhorse, Alaska near Prudhoe Bay in 2017.

After passing the industrial outskirts, Highway 10 goes by a big pond as it enters the village of Tuktoyaktuk. Bob’s gas station (apparently the only gas station in town) was on the R shortly after going by the pond.

Highway 10 as it is about to enter Tuktoyaktuk.

Bob’s gas station, critical infrastructure as far as SPHP and the G6 were concerned, was on the R as Lupe entered town. At $1.68/L Canadian, prices were actually a little lower here than they had been in Inuvik.

Tuktoyaktuk has over 1,000 residents, a number which might grow with the increase in tourism made possible by Highway 10, the new all-season road from Inuvik that opened in November, 2017. Highway 10 was how Lupe had made it to Tuk!

Certainly, the much improved access provided by Highway 10 increases the potential for big changes as Tuk gets better known and businesses consider investing. It was still early in that game, though. In August 2018, as Lupe toured it today, Tuktoyaktuk still looked like an isolated Arctic village. Streets were all dirt. Homes were simple, and up on stilts. Small yards were all dirt, gravel, or natural tundra. Assorted pickup trucks, cars, snowmobiles and ATV’s were parked outside.

One of the attractions Lupe hadn’t visited in Tuktoyaktuk yesterday was the “Pingo with a Trail”, which was on the L shortly after passing Bob’s gas station. That was something the American Dingo could do! Looper was all for the idea.

The Pingo with a Trail might have been 40 feet high. Lupe scampered to the top in only a minute or two. A green bench provided a restful spot from which to take in the surprisingly good views of Tuktoyaktuk and general surroundings. The Arctic Ocean was in sight, too.

Looper was all for visiting this “**Pingo with a Trail**“! More than 1350 pingos are in the Tuktoyaktuk region. This modest one was right in town, and provided good views.

By the green bench at the summit of the “Pingo with a Trail”. Photo looks E.

**Ibyuk Pingo** (L) and **Split Pingo** (Center) from the Pingo with a Trail. Photo looks SSW.

Looking W toward the **Arctic Ocean** over part of Tuktoyaktuk.

Looking toward the N end of Tuktoyaktuk. The **Arctic Ocean** is in the distance on the L. **Tuktoyaktuk Harbor** is on the R. Photo looks N.

House at the base of the Pingo with a Trail.

After visiting the Pingo with a Trail, Lupe and SPHP drove around Tuk a bit. It was Monday, and traffic consisted mainly of white pickup trucks. Lupe went past some sod houses, but they didn’t strike her fancy. In the evening yesterday, there had been a well-attended baseball game going on in a muddy field. Lots of kids and dogs had been out and about. Near the ocean, children had been bouncing on a trampoline.

Not too much was going on today, though, perhaps because it was colder out. No boats were out on the ocean, or in the harbor. Tuktoyaktuk has an airport, but Lupe hadn’t seen any planes land or take off. Some of the larger buildings in Tuk were in better condition than most of the homes, but the Carolina Dog couldn’t go into any of them.

Lupe and SPHP soon wound up at the park near the visitor information center at the far N end of Tuktoyaktuk. This park was where the tourist facilities were along the Arctic Ocean. Loop sniffed and explored while SPHP made lunch at one of the picnic tables.

Several pickup trucks with campers were around. SPHP chatted with three missionaries for a while. Lupe met Peter, a fellow adventurer and explorer. Peter was from the Czech Republic, and had spent the last 2.5 months bicycling here solo clear across Canada from New Brunswick! From Tuktoyaktuk, he planned on continuing S into the United States and Latin America. Mind-boggling!

The sun never appeared. The gray sky matched the gray sea. A steady stream of tourists came by, but the breeze was a bit chilly. Many didn’t stay long. Photo ops by the Arctic Ocean, a few minutes looking at the waves, and they were on their way.

It was fun for Lupe to have seen more of Tuktoyaktuk today, but the main attraction, and whole reason the Carolina Dog had come all this way, was to see the Arctic Ocean. After lunch was over and done with, and there was a lull in people happening by, it was time to repeat the leisurely stroll Loop had enjoyed yesterday evening along the ocean.

The possibly stray dog that Lupe had met yesterday, had come around during lunch seeking handouts again. By now, SPHP had thought long and hard, and had come up with the clever nickname “Tuk” for her. Tuk decided to join Lupe and SPHP.

By the cemetery on Beaufort Road a little S of the park at the N end of Tuktoyaktuk. Photo looks W.

Abandoning the G6 at the park for now, Lupe, Tuk and SPHP headed S on Beaufort Road. After passing the cemetery, Loop led the way back to the ocean behind an apartment building to the W. A short trek S brought her to the same nice stretch of shoreline along Kugmallit Bay that Lupe had visited yesterday.

Not another soul out here. The beach wasn’t terribly long, so there was no rush at all. Walking slowly, SPHP gazed out at the restless, remote sea at the top of the world, while enjoying the whole incredible experience of actually being at the Arctic Ocean. Loop and Tuk ran and explored, sometimes together, sometimes going their own separate ways.

Lupe on her second romp along **Kugmallit Bay** since arriving in Tuktoyaktuk. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe and “Tuk”, the possibly stray dog who often showed up at the park to panhandle. **Ibyuk Pingo** (L) and **Split Pingo** (Center) in the distance. Photo looks SSW.

“Tuk” with **Split Pingo** (R) in the background.

“Tuk” eventually realized this trek wasn’t likely to result in a meal. Lupe and SPHP were left alone. At the S end of the beach, Loopster followed the shoreline E along a sheltered cove as far as possible before reaching private property, going a little farther than she had yesterday.

At the end of the beach trek. Photo looks S.

On the way back, a lone seagull came by, and landed on the ocean. SPHP picked out another rock as a souvenir to add to Lupe’s collection. Waves kept rolling in. A little more than an hour after Loop’s second splendid journey along the Arctic Ocean began, it was over, too.

Turning back near the end of the trek. Photo looks WSW.

Later, at the park at the N end of Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP heated up clam chowder for dinner. Loop didn’t care for it, preferring Ritz crackers. She must not have been too hungry, as she scarcely touched her Alpo.

“Tuk” reappeared on another panhandling run, and this time was in luck. SPHP gave Tuk some of Lupe’s Taste of the Wild, a whole can of Alpo, and a couple different types of treats Loop had recently received from Pupjoy – Lamb Airy Bites and Coconut Shrimp. Tuk inhaled it all in seconds, looking like 5 times that much would have been preferred. SPHP wondered whether Tuk had a home? Hard to contemplate what might soon be in store for Tuk, if not. Summer was practically over.

The tide was coming in. Lupe and SPHP went over to the spit of big rocks at the N end of the park to watch the ocean gradually submerge formerly exposed seabed. More pingos were in sight on a distant shore.

At the N end of the park watching the tide come in. Photo looks NE.

Several pingos looking merely like small bumps are strung out along the distant shore. Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

Evening. Half a dozen pickup trucks with campers were around now, evidently here for the night, but hardly anyone was outside. Along the W edge of the park, just beyond the picnic tables, an embankment of large dark rocks protected the shoreline from the waves of Kugmallit Bay. Scattered among these rocks were large amounts of driftwood.

The ocean breeze was cool, and getting cooler. A fire would be nice! Lupe came along to sniff, while SPHP gathered driftwood. A fire was soon going. SPHP slowly nursed it into a larger and larger bonfire, until it actually threw off some decent heat, if one stood close enough.

A woman came by selling moccasins she had made by hand out of moose hide and seal skin. She was friendly and chatty, but soon discovered she had forgotten to bring any moccasins with her. She left to go back home to get them. After a while, she did return. The moccasins were darling, skillfully made, but for little children or babies. The woman never said how much she wanted for them. She did say she could make 2.5 pairs per day. When SPHP didn’t have a use for them, she moved on looking for someone else to talk to.

After a while, a fog moved in, and it got noticeably colder. Lupe was ready to call it a day. SPHP let her into the G6, and drew her blankie over her. The Carolina Dog settled in for an Arctic Ocean snooze, and did not return.

SPHP kept the bonfire going, while watching and listening to the ocean. No one else was out now. The fog lifted, and it got a little warmer again. Off to the N, a long line of brighter sky appeared. For several hours it drew closer, but never arrived. The fire devoured large quantities of driftwood. Poles 5 feet long, and 7 or 8 inches thick, disappeared.

By midnight, nearly all light had faded from the sky. Weary, and a bit cold from the wind, SPHP doused the fire. What an evening it had been, though! Think of it, only 1,426 miles from the top of the world! The rest of the night was spent at desolate Pingo Canadian Landmark.8-21-18, 7:30 AM, 33°F – Tiny snowflakes filled the air as SPHP drove back to the park at the N end of Tuktoyaktuk for the last time. The snow was already over and done with when Lupe arrived to find Peter having breakfast in the park’s open air covered shelter. SPHP chatted with him, while Peter gave Loop a pat. He was about to leave Tuktoyaktuk on his bicycle to begin the next leg of his incredible journey to Latin America.

Wishing Peter good luck and safe travels, Lupe and SPHP set off for a third and final stroll along the Arctic Ocean. The morning breeze was quite cold, but Lupe made the whole wonderful trek again. For the first time since she had arrived in Tuk, patches of blue sky could be seen. The bracing journey was over far too soon, but SPHP did remember to pick out a third souvenir stone from Kugmallit Bay.

Lupe on her final stroll along the **Arctic Ocean**. Photo looks N.

Not anxious to depart, breakfast was clam chowder again at the same picnic table at the park at the N end of Tuk. SPHP then caught up the trip journal while still enjoying a view of the Arctic Ocean.

10:55 AM, 33°F – What a joyful, incredible experience it had been! The time had come, though, for Lupe to say good-bye, most likely forever, to the Arctic Ocean and Tuktoyaktuk. SPHP was so glad she had come! Lupe got up on a couple of rocks for photos.

A little blue sky appears at the end of Lupe’s stay in Tuktoyaktuk.

And then, for a few final moments, The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stood poised in the chill breeze on the last of the big rocks she would ever be on next to the Arctic Ocean.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood at the **Arctic Ocean**.

Savored briefly, the moment passed.

Puppy, ho! Onward!

For a few minutes, tiny snowflakes again filled the air as SPHP drove out of Tuktoyaktuk after fueling the G6. The American Dingo was leaving the Land of the Pingos! New adventures lay ahead, but the Arctic Ocean was an adventure never to be forgotten.

20 km from Tuk, Lupe saw Peter again! He was pedaling hard, going fast, and waved as the G6 slowed beside him for a few seconds. Lupe barked. SPHP waved back. Peter was smiling as the G6 re-accelerated. For a few seconds he lingered – receding, then vanishing, in the rear view mirror.

The American Dingo was now destined to repeat her long journey N in reverse. Cruising S on Highway 10 to Inuvik, the plan was to head back to the Richardson Mountains on the Yukon border. Hopefully, the weather would have improved since Lupe had left Wright Pass three days ago. Maybe tomorrow the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood could begin climbing a few of the mountains she had skipped on her way N due to poor weather?

11:49 AM, 35°F, Hwy 10 – The silvery Eskimo Lakes, looking like a vast, lonely sea, were on the horizon. Worth a quick stop! Lupe could see a few small hills near the lakes. Perhaps pingos SPHP hadn’t noticed on the way N? Quite likely.

Approaching the **Eskimo Lakes** again, this time on the way S.

**Eskimo Lakes** from Highway 10 with help from the telephoto lens.

2:55 PM, 42°F – Along the Dempster Highway S of Inuvik, SPHP stopped at the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii viewpoint again. Loop needed a break from the G6. This time she took the shorter trail to the R at the first fork. The trail led to a viewpoint from which the Carolina Dog would be able to see Campbell Lake.

Lupe never made it to the end of the trail. A large group of people was ahead of her lingering on a big deck at the viewpoint. Since Loop had seen Campbell lake before, there was no sense in disturbing them. Lupe did go far enough to be able to see part of Campbell Lake again, this time on a prettier day.

Campbell Lake, S of Inuvik, on a prettier day than the first time Lupe had been here. Photo looks NW.

4:53 PM, 44°F, Mackenzie River – At the Mackenzie River, there was a bit of a wait for the MV Louis Cardinal ferry.

The MV Louis Cardinal approaches from the village of Tsiigehtchic. Photo looks SE.

Once aboard the ferry, SPHP recognized a pickup with a camper that Lupe had seen back at Tuktoyaktuk yesterday. SPHP had spoken briefly with the owner, Steve, who was from Alberta. Somewhat surprisingly, Steve appeared outside the G6 on the way over the Mackenzie River. He had important news – a warning, actually.

Steve said he had been amazed to discover that he had internet service on his phone here. He’d just finished checking the weather report. A blizzard was forecast for Eagle Plains and the Richardson Mountains tonight! 80 to 100 kph (50 – 60 mph) winds with 1 to 2 meters (3 – 6 feet) of snow expected! Thought SPHP might like to know. Steve said he was going to try to get to Eagle Plains this evening before the storm hit. At least there were facilities there where he could ride it out.

Gah! Suddenly, that changed everything, didn’t it? Weather forecasts are notoriously over-hyped these days, but even so, if only a fraction of what was predicted came to pass, it spelled the end of any peakbagging hopes Lupe had in the Richardson Mountains. More than a few inches of snow, and the G6 wouldn’t be able to handle it, either.

Summer was about to end. Who knew what getting stranded out here might mean? Big trouble, and a bigger adventure than Loop and SPHP had bargained for, that much was certain. SPHP thought about all the rain that had fallen the night Lupe had spent at the Arctic Circle on the way N. A regular monsoon. If it had been only a few degrees colder out, a meter or two of snow would have fallen back then, easy!

So, as Steve’s pickup pulled away from the ferry after crossing the Mackenzie River, the race to beat the storm was on. Plans demolished, suddenly the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood’s new goal was to flee the true Arctic as fast as possible! Steve was right, she at least had to get to the protection of Eagle Plains.

6:37 PM, 41°F, Peel River – The Dempster Highway had become slick and wet shortly before reaching the Peel River, but the ferry was ready and waiting to go when Lupe arrived. She was across in practically no time, heading for the Richardson Mountains.

7:10 PM, 35°F, Midway Lake – The road is damp, but not as wet as back at the Peel River. The temperature has been dropping, however, and high points ahead are in fog. So far, overall visibility is still good.

7:22 PM, 34°F, 35 km to Wright Pass – Up in the fog now, heading into the first of the Richardson Mountains.

7:43 PM, 32°F – Visibility dropped to as little as 100 yards for a short while, but the road then dropped down into a valley where a rushing stream was on the L. Passed 2 guys on heavily-laden bicycles pedaling hard uphill against the wind. They are still heading N! Wondering how Peter is doing? Maybe he is in Inuvik by now?

Having lost enough elevation to escape the fog, visibility is decent again. More of the Richardson Mountains are ahead, their summits cloaked in fog. The highway is merely damp.

Out of the fog for the moment near the Richardson Mountains.

7:55 PM, 35°F – Can see Wright Pass ahead! Peak 3850 immediately to the S of the pass is in view part of the time, too, plus part of the start of the route to Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.) to the N. Seems like such a shame that Lupe is going to have to shoot straight on over the pass to continue the journey S, but the forecast is simply too dire to ignore.

Approaching **Wright Pass** (L of Center), the border with the Yukon Territory. **Peak 3850** is on the L (S) side of the pass. Photo looks SW.

**Wright Pass** (Center) from the NE with help from the telephoto lens.

8:14 PM, 32°F, Wright Pass – A 30 mph wind is blowing out of the NE over Wright Pass. Only a few minutes ago, Peak 3850 had been visible, but it’s completely hidden by fog now. Too bad, but none of these peaks are going to happen. Lupe must press on. She is already most of the way through the Richardson Mountains now, and can begin her descent down the W side of the range.

Good-bye Northwest Territories, hello Yukon!

Loop takes a stretch W of the Richardson Mountains shortly after going over Wright Pass. Lupe never did get to see much of the Richardson Mountains. Just as foggy now as when she was on her way N.

8:01 PM, 35°F, Rock River campground – Gained an hour upon entering the Yukon Territory at Wright Pass. Out of the mountains, and heading S. Stopped briefly at Lupe’s favorite No. 6 spot at the Rock River campground, site of the great 2018 Yukon Territory Squirrel Rush not so ago. Gave Loop her dinner. Cleaned windows and headlights. Onward!

8:29 PM, 33°F – Nearly due W of Mount Hare (4,070 ft.), yet another peak in the Richardson Mountains that Lupe never got to see, much less climb. 30 mph wind and light rain. Refreshingly brisk outside, but only for a minute, then it’s back into the G6! The road is a pothole mess, but not as wet, and actually in somewhat better condition than when Lupe was headed N. No blizzard has materialized so far.

Due W of Mount Hare somewhere along in here. Photo looks SE.

10:04 AM, 32°F, Eagle Plains – Apparently, some things never change. It was raining steadily by the time Lupe went past the Arctic Circle again. The Dempster Highway was one pothole after another, each jarring jolt launching a sudden spray of dirty water up over the G6. The windows were a complete mess, especially on Lupe’s side, but SPHP kept driving slowly onward.

Getting close to the Arctic Circle again on the way S.

The road was super slick going down into and back up out of the Eagle River valley, but the G6 finally made it to civilization at Eagle Plains.

After fueling the G6, SPHP went into the Eagle Plains Hotel. Restaurant closed for the night, but the bar was open. No rooms left, booked solid. Could park at the campground for $20. No snow yet, but 32°F outside, raining, and yeah, the forecast was abysmal for the next three days. Blizzard due to arrive any time now.

Steve from Alberta, who had given the initial warning about the weather back at the Mackenzie River, appeared. He had been able to drive faster in his pickup, and had made it to Eagle Plains a while ago. Steve said he was going to hang out at the campground here overnight, and wait to see what tomorrow would bring. Another guy said he had just gotten in from Tombstone Territorial Park. The weather was worse down there – heavy rain when he’d left some hours ago.

Decision time. Wait here where there were facilities, and see what the morrow would bring, likely getting snowed in at Eagle Plains, or … ?

Or, what? Try to beat the storm and get all the way back to pavement at the start of the Dempster Highway? Probably impossible, and would that even do any good?

Maybe. SPHP thanked Steve from Alberta for the blizzard warning, then went back out into the storm to join Lupe in the G6. Still 32°F, and still just raining. Not even completely dark out yet. SPHP turned the key. The G6 lit up, and sprang to life.

The adventures just keep coming, don’t they Loopster?

No room at the inn, SPHP?

Nope. No vacancy. Sorry about that.

The Carolina Dog heaved a great sigh, and stared out at the long, wet road ahead. A room would have been nice.

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Deadhorse, Alaska – the Arctic Ocean Tour & Sagavanirktok River Walk (8-21-17)

Day 22 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

5:18 AM, 44°F – Already light out, but dense fog hides everything. A strange noise, possibly electronic, is coming from somewhere every few seconds. SPHP checks the camera. No, it wasn’t left on. Lupe is awake. She hears the noise, too, but seems unconcerned. After a minute or two, the noise stops. Odd. Whatever. Back to sleep.

7:54 AM, 44°F – Wow, stayed conked out a long time! Still foggy, but the silvery Sagavanirktok River is now in view. Loop’s ready to get out and sniff the air. There’s that strange noise again. It’s not electronic. Birds resembling loons afloat on the Sag are the source. Cool!

It’s Monday morning. Deadhorse is awake now and apparently back to work, no longer the ghostly place it was last night. Loop hears loud noises, a variety of banging and clanging coming from across the Dalton Highway. The Carolina Dog hates loud noises! Lupe wants back in the G6, where she curls up to snooze some more.

Lupe wakes up to a view of the silvery **Sagavanirktok River** in Deadhorse, Alaska. Photo looks SE.

9:00 AM, 45°F – The trip journal is caught up again now. Lupe’s nap is done. The fog has lifted somewhat. Out of the G6 for another look at the Sagavanirktok River. Then it’s time to scout out breakfast possibilities, and find out more about the Arctic Ocean tour – today’s big event!

After her early nap, Lupe checks out the view of the **Sagavanirktok River** again. More than an hour has gone by, and the fog has lifted.

In 2016, Lupe had taken the Dalton Highway halfway to Deadhorse. She’d climbed a pair of wonderful peaks in Alaska’s Brooks Range, Sukakpak Mountain and Dillon Mountain, and gone on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure.

While in the Brooks Range, Lupe and SPHP had met several groups of people who had been all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway. Deadhorse is only 6-8 miles S of Prudhoe Bay. However, for oilfield security purposes, the public is not allowed free access to the Arctic Ocean. The only way to get there is by taking a guided tour.

SPHP asked everyone Lupe met if they had taken the Arctic Ocean tour, but nobody had. Everybody liked Alaska’s North Slope, and most had seen some really cool wildlife along the Dalton Highway – snowy owls, arctic foxes, caribou and even musk ox – but no one liked Deadhorse, an ugly industrial complex. And no one thought the price of the Arctic Ocean tour was worth it. Everyone had seen other oceans elsewhere, and that was good enough for them.

Really? The Arctic Ocean not worth it? Not even once, just to have been there and seen some part of the polar ocean at the top of the world? SPHP already knew that Dingoes weren’t officially allowed on the Arctic Ocean tour, but intended to plead Lupe’s case. If Loop had to buy a ticket, too, so be it. Even cheapskate SPHP would spring for that, if it meant the American Dingo could stand on the shore of the Arctic Ocean!

The Arctic Ocean tour begins at Deadhorse Camp, a long boxy yellow tan building visible on the L side of the Dalton Highway on the way into Deadhorse. Lupe had stopped by Deadhorse Camp late yesterday evening.

Lupe had stopped by Deadhorse Camp yesterday evening. It was easy to spot on the L side of the Dalton Highway shortly after reaching the outskirts of Deadhorse.

Since Deadhorse Camp was already within sight, SPHP drove over there first. Lupe waited in the G6 while SPHP went inside.

Already a little past 9:00 AM, it turns out that the first Arctic Ocean tour of the day has already left. The tour is conducted twice daily. A shuttle bus leaves from Deadhorse Camp at 8:30 AM and 3:30 PM. Each tour typically takes a little under 2 hours. Most of the tour is actually about the Prudhoe Bay oilfield. However, limited access to the Arctic Ocean is provided for 15 to 30 minutes. Cost is $69.00 per person, which includes all taxes and fees.

Fine, fine! It was all fine, except for one thing.

I’m sorry, Loopster! You can’t go. I tried to talk them into it, even offered to buy you a separate ticket, but it all fell on completely deaf ears. They were adamant. No Dingoes allowed.

I won’t ever get to see the Arctic Ocean?

No. I know it isn’t fair, and I’m terribly sorry. Apparently there’s just no way to get them to change their minds.

So, now what?

Well, if you don’t mind, I’d like to go on the tour myself, as the personal representative of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood. It’s the best we can do under the circumstances.

And I have to wait here in the G6?

Yes. It’s only a couple of hours. You can take it easy, and have another nap.

I suppose that’s OK, SPHP. As Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I suppose I really ought to send you as my representative since I can’t go myself. Are you leaving now?

Oh, good. Glad you see it that way, Loop. No, I’m not leaving yet. The next tour isn’t until later this afternoon. We can go do some other stuff in the meantime.

Like what?

Well, for starters, we should go to the end of the Dalton Highway. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood should get her picture taken there for posterity, don’t you think? It’s only a couple of miles from here.

Oh, yeah! That’s true! We didn’t get a picture there last night, did we? Let’s go get that taken care of before we forget.

Lupe stands on the Dalton Highway in Deadhorse, Alaska. The 414 mile long highway officially ends at the T intersection in front of **Lake Colleen** just ahead. Photo looks W.

Looking back from the end of the Dalton Highway. This is the start of the way back S to Livengood and Fairbanks. Photo looks E.

Lupe poses near **Lake Colleen** a little beyond the end of the Dalton Highway. Lake Colleen is the largest lake in Deadhorse. It’s possible to drive completely around it.

SPHP congratulated Lupe on reaching the end of the Dalton Highway. Maybe she would like to send her Grandma a postcard from Deadhorse? Loop thought that would be a good idea! Wouldn’t Grandma be surprised to learn she was way up here practically at the Arctic Ocean?

The clerk at the Prudhoe Bay Hotel had given SPHP a simple map of Deadhorse last night. It didn’t show much detail, but all the major roads were on it, and so was Brooks Range Supply. The clerk had said Brooks Range Supply had a gift shop. That might be a good place to look for a postcard.

The simple map of Deadhorse that SPHP received courtesy of the Prudhoe Bay Hotel. Not much detail, but the major roads are shown.

When Lupe reached Brooks Range Supply, she found a sign welcoming her to Deadhorse, Alaska on the side of the building. SPHP recognized this sign, having seen it online before Lupe ever left home on this Dingo Vacation. Now Lupe was actually here, thousands of miles from home!

Lupe outside Brooks Range Supply. SPHP recognized the yellow sign welcoming Looper to Deadhorse from the internet.

SPHP went into Brooks Range Supply while Lupe lounged about in the G6. The main floor was a giant parts store. No doubt it all would have been enormously useful if Loop intended to start up her own oilfield. However, as profitable as that might have been, it wasn’t actually the case.

A little exploring revealed that the Deadhorse post office was located here, too. It was also on the main floor down a hallway. The gift shop turned out to be a much smaller area upstairs. The gift shop had lots of clothing, mugs, and all that sort of stuff for tourists. They had postcards too, but the postcards about Alaska were all generic. SPHP had hoped to find something specific to Deadhorse, Prudhoe Bay, or the Arctic Ocean. No such luck.

SPHP bought an Alaska postcard, anyway. SPHP then returned to Lupe in the G6, to write up her postcard to Grandma before mailing it. Lupe made sure SPHP mentioned she was sending lots of love to Grandma, too.

After mailing the postcard, it was late morning. Still plenty of time left before the afternoon Arctic Ocean tour. On the way to Brooks Range Supply, SPHP had seen a multi-story hotel called the Aurora. Maybe it was possible to get lunch there? It meant another wait for Lupe in the G6, but she didn’t mind as long as she got some Taste of the Wild.

Loop outside the Aurora Hotel. The Aurora turned out to be a great place to eat!

Upon entering the Aurora Hotel, signs indicated blue slip-on boot covers were required to help keep the hotel floors clean. This is apparently standard practice everywhere in Deadhorse. The Prudhoe Bay Hotel had required them last night, too. The disposable boot covers were provided free at the entryway, along with benches to sit on while putting them on. Everyone complies, and so did SPHP.

Coming to the Aurora for lunch proved to be a fantastic idea! SPHP learned that an all you can eat luncheon was about to be served. It was buffet style and being set up right now. $15.00 tax included. A huge, high-ceiling dining area featured tall glass windows overlooking Lake Colleen. When the buffet was ready, the food was delicious! A wide variety of entrees was available. Being the middle of the day, the dining room was mostly empty. The Aurora’s customers are mostly oilfield workers, who were either working or sleeping this time of day.

SPHP tanked up on everything imaginable while watching waterfowl on Lake Colleen. It was 12:34 PM when SPHP waddled out of the Aurora.

Certainly took your sweet time, didn’t you?

Oh, Loopster! Too bad you can’t go in there. The Aurora is fantastic! So good. Better get used to the wait. Found out breakfast is served 4:30 AM to 7:30 AM. Not missing that before we leave Deadhorse in the morning.

Well, at least someone is having a grand time in Deadhorse!

Oh, come on. Here, I’ve smuggled you out some bacon. Besides, you’re going to have some fun now. We have time for a Sagavanirktok River walk. Should be a good time.

Bacon? Now you’re talking, SPHP!

Deadhorse is full of all sorts of interesting stuff. Here Lupe stands near a line of whatever in the heck they are not far from the Aurora Hotel.

For an hour, Loopster did have fun along the Sagavanirktok River. She explored rock jetties along the riverbank. She sniffed around gullies in the tundra nearby. The Carolina Dog watched geese flying in formation, and barked excitedly each time an airplane roared low overhead.

The Sag looked all silvery from even a short distance, but up close it was more of a greenish silver. The water was neither murky nor particularly clear. It was possible to see quite a few feet down into the water. The river was hundreds of feet wide, but other than the main channel, most of it didn’t appear deep. Though the current looked strong, the river’s surface rippled only slightly.

Lupe near the start of her early afternoon **Sagavanirktok River** walk.

Looking upstream. The bank is all artificially built up along here to prevent flooding.

Lupe explores rocks of one of the jetties. Photo looks downstream.

Checking out one of the gullies near the Sagavanirktok River. Some of the gullies were much deeper than this.

Deadhorse was a busy place in the middle of the day. Lupe eventually became concerned with all the industrial noises she was hearing, and wanted to return to the G6. (1:57 PM) SPHP had noticed that a small gift shop in the Aurora Hotel did have postcards about Prudhoe Bay. Might as well go back and get one. Time enough to do that before heading over to Deadhorse Camp.

2:45 PM – Loop’s relaxing in the G6. Just arrived at Deadhorse Camp to pay for the Arctic Ocean tour. The guy who takes the money asks for SPHP’s identification, which is duly presented, then mentions there’s a problem. Half an hour ago, BP (formerly British Petroleum, which holds the lease in the tour area) emailed the Deadhorse Camp tour operators that everyone must make reservations at least 24 hours in advance. This is so they have time to run an FBI check.

In recent times, this has always technically been a requirement, but they haven’t been enforcing it. SPHP can’t go on this afternoon’s Arctic Ocean tour, unless the BP people waive the requirement. Will seeing an American passport help? No. It all depends on the shuttle bus driver, who is a long time BP employee. Until he arrives, nothing to do but wait. The Deadhorse Camp guy says he will encourage a waiver, but no promises.

3:30 PM – The shuttle bus has arrived. The driver hadn’t even seen the email yet. The Deadhorse Camp guy says that when he does, the driver checks everyone’s ID information then agrees to simply blow the email off, at least for this afternoon’s tour. The Arctic Ocean tour is a go! SPHP pays the $69.00 in cash, and climbs aboard the shuttle bus along with the 4 other people taking the tour. Minutes later, the tour is underway.

The tour is very informal. The driver gives no prepared talk, but is willing to answer questions. He is an Alaska native born in Kotzebue, a town of 3,500 on the W coast a little N of the Arctic Circle. He has seen herds of several thousand wild reindeer there. Zinc mining is the big employer in Kotzebue.

The driver has been working on the North Slope for 28 years in various capacities, and lives in Anchorage now. Most oilfield workers do. The company pays for flights between the job and Anchorage, on a rotating on/off cycle. While in Deadhorse, everyone works every day. Not much else to do here, anyway.

A brief stop at the East Checkpoint. The tour is authorized to continue on through the Prudhoe Bay oilfields. The driver points out several of the many scattered oilfield facilities seen from the road, and explains their purpose. If requested, he will stop anywhere along the way for photos or a longer look.

One of a variety of oilfield facilities the Arctic Ocean tour goes by.

Swans on a pond en route to the Arctic Ocean.

What you get out of the shuttle bus part of the tour depends entirely on what you put into it. Ask no questions, and it’s just a taxi ride. You won’t learn much of anything. A man from western Colorado asks a number of questions. SPHP keeps up a near constant Q & A session with the driver, who is a friendly guy. No one else says anything, except a woman with a fancy camera who wants to stop wherever there’s wildlife.

SPHP notices a pile of clean white towels on the seat behind the bus driver, and makes a joke about should have brought a bathing suit, then suddenly realizes that’s exactly what those towels are for. The shuttle bus driver confirms it. Dang! Really should have worn a bathing suit. Never even thought of it until now. A swim in the Arctic Ocean would have been something! Too late now.

Something like half an hour after leaving Deadhorse Camp, the shuttle bus arrives at its destination. This is it, the Arctic Ocean! Everyone piles out. Ahead a gravelly spit of land protrudes a couple hundred yards out into the sea. No one can go anywhere except this one little peninsula. The driver says that Prudhoe Bay is on the L (W) and the Beaufort Sea is on the R (E). Seems unlikely to be strictly true, but we’re going with it. Everyone walks out toward the end of the spit.

This is it! The highlight of the **Arctic Ocean** tour. For $69 you can walk out to the end of this gravelly spit of land protruding into the sea. On the L is **Prudhoe Bay**, on the R is the **Beaufort Sea**. If only Lupe could have been here!

Everything is gray. The ocean is gray, the sky is gray, the rocks are gray. The sea is quite calm. SPHP takes off shoes and socks, and wades in. The water is cold, but no worse than the streams Lupe has been fording in Alaska. The water is surprisingly shallow near shore. SPHP wades 30 or 40 feet out into the Beaufort Sea. The ocean is only knee deep.

Looking out across the **Beaufort Sea**.

The personal representative of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stands out in the Beaufort Sea experiencing the Arctic Ocean for 5 minutes, then bends down to pluck a stone off the seabed. Except for a narrow white stripe, the stone is a uniform dull gray. Worn smooth by the action of the waves, it’s a little over 2 inches long. A 0.25 inch diameter depression on one side is the only significant feature.

A souvenir. Something real to take home from the Arctic Ocean. Utterly meaningless to the rest of the world, but forever a tangible reminder of this moment a few tens of feet off the N coast of Alaska. Clutching the small stone, SPHP wades back to join the other tour members on shore.

The **Beaufort Sea** from the end of the spit.

Various energy industry facilities are off in the distance strung out all along the coast in both directions. Nearby a double row of rusty barrels extends out into the sea. Little waves lap the shore line. Too bad Lupe couldn’t be here. It’s a great day. Temps in the 40’s °F. Wonder what this place must be like in winter? Brutal, no doubt.

A view of some sort of oil industry facility across the bay with help from the telephoto lens. The tour guide said that all Prudhoe Bay facilities are onshore. No off-shore drilling goes on up here.

Another oil industry complex across **Prudhoe Bay** with help from the telephoto lens.

A double line of rusting barrels extends out into the **Arctic Ocean**.

Side view looking toward the **Beaufort Sea**.

Other tour members start back to the shuttle bus. Must be time. SPHP lingers at the end of the spit, staring out across the Arctic Ocean. The North Pole is somewhere out there, still roughly 1,200 miles away. This is as close as SPHP will ever get.

Final look at the **Arctic Ocean** before boarding the shuttle bus.

The shuttle bus ride back to Deadhorse Camp retraces the original route to the ocean. Three arctic foxes playing together are the highlight of the return trip.

One of the three arctic foxes seen on the way back to Deadhorse Camp. Look at that magnificent bushy tail!

The 3 foxes were very lively and enjoyed rough and tumble games with each other.

Lupe would have loved playing with the foxes! How they might have felt about being joined by an American Dingo is another matter.

Another energy industry complex on the way back to Deadhorse Camp.

So, how was the Arctic Ocean tour, SPHP? Was it worth it?

Yeah, it was Loop. Really wished you could have been there the whole time, though. I waded right out into the Arctic Ocean!

Wasn’t it frigid?

Not as bad as I expected, but then it’s a balmy day in August. No worse than all the streams and bogs you’ve been traipsing through almost daily on this trip.

What did you like best about it?

Just being there, thinking about where I was on the globe. Zillions of people have been to the ocean, but not that many have ever been to the Arctic Ocean.

Hardly any Dingoes either, I don’t suppose, given the anti-Dingo policies around here.

Probably not, but your cousins have been there!

What?!

We saw three arctic foxes! They were playing together. You would have loved that. And their tails! Magnificent! I like your curly tail, but these foxes had some of the most exquisite tails you’ve ever seen.

Oh, fun! But I think I better stick with the tail I’ve got. I’m rather attached to it, and it to me. So, now what?

Well, how about a tour of Deadhorse? You can at least do that. We’ll just drive around seeing whatever there is to see. We can follow it up with a second Sagavanirktok River walk this evening.

Sounds good. Especially the river walk part. I’m not really so into all this industrial stuff, but we might as well see it while we’re here.

Leaving Deadhorse Camp, Lupe and SPHP drove most of the few major roads in Deadhorse. Several short side roads and a couple of large loops constituted most of the Carolina Dog’s Deadhorse tour.

Nearly everything Lupe saw was directly related to the energy industry. Various industrial installations, a wide variety of oil service companies, drilling rigs, heavy equipment, maintenance and storage facilities, and stacks of supplies were about it. White pickup trucks were all over the place, and semi trucks came and went.

The only businesses open to serving the general public seemed to be the small airport, a couple of unmanned gas stations, various boxy “hotels”, and the gift shop at Brooks Range Supply.

Not a single home was seen anywhere. All the oilfield workers live in the hotels.

Idle drilling rigs in Deadhorse. Energy prices had been low for a couple of years now.

Lupe went clear around Lake Colleen on her tour of Deadhorse. Here she’s NW of the lake only 6 miles from Prudhoe Bay.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood a little NW of Lake Colleen.

A truck maintenance and repair facility. Some places in Deadhorse looked quite new like this one. Others appeared much older.

Lots of oil service companies have offices and facilities in Deadhorse.

SPHP has a red stocking cap that says “Halliburton”. It was picked up at a garage sale years ago, but brought SPHP instant acceptance here in Deadhorse. Everyone seemed to think SPHP worked here!

Hotels in Deadhorse really look strange. They are all boxy like this, but are often surprisingly nice inside. Only some of them cater to the public. Most are full of oilfield workers since there are no homes at all in Deadhorse.

One of two gas stations in Deadhorse. This is the fanciest one. Both are completely unmanned. No convenience stores here or anywhere else in Deadhorse. Except for energy industry related businesses, there’s no business district at all.

Mural on one of the buildings. Deadhorse is part of Alaska’s nearly 95,000 square mile North Slope Borough.

8:17 PM – Having had a bite to eat, it was time for Lupe’s evening walk along the Sagavanirktok River. For the first time in many days, most of the sky overhead was completely blue, though clouds existed farther off in every direction. The Sag, as it’s called locally, reflected the sky and was now a beautiful blue itself.

Lupe starts her second **Sagavanirktok River** walk of the day – an unhurried, evening stroll upstream.

Following the beautiful **Sagavanirktok River** upstream in Deadhorse.

The American Dingo wasn’t the only one out enjoying the lovely evening by the Sagavanirktok River. Several fishermen were trying their luck from the bank. A couple of hardy souls came floating down the river. Even though only a light intermittent breeze was blowing, a man kept trying to launch a green kite. The kite would soar briefly before plunging back to earth.

A couple of hardy souls go floating by down the Sagavanirktok River.

The green kite soars briefly on a weak, unreliable breeze.

After a long relaxing stroll, Lupe reached a van parked near the river not far from Deadhorse Camp. The van belonged to a graduate student in theoretical chemistry from Germany. He was watching caribou far beyond the opposite bank of the Sagavanirktok with binoculars. The student let SPHP take a peek.

The theoretical chemist already had reservations to take the Arctic Ocean tour tomorrow. SPHP advised him to wear his swim suit. Lupe enjoyed being petted while the student and SPHP chatted.

This was far enough. The sun was getting low. The moment came to turn around, and begin the walk back to the G6.

Lupe at the endpoint of her **Sagavanirktok River** walk.

Looper had quite a romp among the gullies near the river. She sniffed and explored to her heart’s delight.

Among the gullies where Loop had a fun romp.

The sun took a long time to slide toward the horizon. It was still light out and would be for a while when Lupe reached the G6 again. (9:37 PM) Almost an hour later, SPHP invited Loop to come out and watch the sun go down over the Deadhorse airport. A brilliant sunset seemed like a possibility due to some thin clouds.

The Carolina Dog was done for the day. She wanted to curl up under her blankie instead. SPHP left her to snooze, and walked 5 minutes to the top of a mound of dirt 15 feet higher than the surrounding tundra.

Alone, SPHP stood watching the sun sink. The sunset was pretty, but the hoped for pinks and reds never really developed. It was still a gorgeous evening, a magical moment. An Alaska Airlines plane took off from the airport and curved away overhead. A glistening Sagavanirktok River rippled by near the end of its journey to the Arctic Ocean.

The set up for the sunset looked promising.

But the pinks and reds never really developed.

Tomorrow Lupe would leave for other adventures. SPHP was glad she’d come here, though, beyond the Brooks Range and across the North Slope to Deadhorse at the N end of the Dalton Highway near Prudhoe Bay.

Sagavanirktok River, Deadhorse, Alaska 8-21-17

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