Mount Fairplay – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Mount Fairplay, Alaska (8-2-23)

Part 2 of Day 11 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

2:37 PM, Taylor Highway at the Mount Fairplay Wayside – Discouraging! That’s what the first faint view of Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) dimly seen in the distance amid a sea of smoke had been, but the mountain was considerably closer now.

The smoke doesn’t look that bad from here, SPHP. Let’s go for it!

**Mount Fairplay** (R of Center) from the **Taylor Highway**. Photo looks S.

**Taylor Highway information** posted at the Mount Fairplay Wayside.

Oh, we’re going to, Loopster! The way this Dingo Vacation has been going, we’re climbing anything that’s even marginal, unless and until we can find clearer skies. Besides, it’s been nearly 4 years since we’ve been up on Mount Fairplay, and I’m really looking forward to it.

3:40 PM, 69ºF, Taylor Highway, MP 32.8 – SPHP nearly had the backpack ready to go when a caribou suddenly emerged from the bushes on the opposite side of the road, and began trotting N. Still relaxing on her pink blanket in the RAV4, Lupe didn’t see the caribou until SPHP pointed it out. An immediate, enthusiastic barking fit ensued, spurring the caribou to pick up its pace before once again vanishing among the bushes.

Let me out, SPHP! A caribou!

I know, it was awesome, Loop! Trotted right past me. Gone now, though, so forget it. You know, if you’re interested in wildlife, maybe being a bit more subtle would help. In any case, we’ve got a mountain to climb!

SPHP opened the door, and Lupe hopped out.

**Mount Fairplay** (L) from the pullout at milepost 32.8. Photo looks ESE.

I’ve never seen Mount Fairplay looking so green before, SPHP. Usually it’s a mountain of gold!

That’s because we’ve never been here this early in the season before. Another 2 or 3 weeks, and it won’t look like summer anymore. A month, and the colors will be amazing. Actually better then, Looper, but it is what it is, and we’re here now. So, onward! Puppy ho!

SPHP crossed the highway and started up into the bushes, but the American Dingo hung back near the RAV4. In full sun and a fur coat on a warm day, suddenly Lupe wasn’t nearly as motivated as she’d been only moments ago when the caribou had been here.

You coming, Loopster? Or are you suffering from PCDS?

PCDS? What’s that, SPHP?

Post-Caribou Depression Syndrome.

Oh, I see. Yes, I think I’ve got some PCDS, SPHP, but mainly I’m just kind of hot.

We’ll take it slow and easy, Looper, so you don’t get overheated. As far as the PCDS goes, who knows? We might see more caribou during the trek up Mount Fairplay. That would be a surefire cure, wouldn’t it?

Somewhat encouraged, Lupe followed at a distance while playing her stalking game. The Carolina Dog repeatedly sat in whatever shade she could find, semi-hidden among the bushes until SPHP was out of sight, before pursuing and catching up.

Setting out for **Mount Fairplay** (R of Center). Photo looks E.

Although it didn’t look like much, a mildly steep slope forming the first part of the ascent was actually the most difficult. The bushes down near the highway were taller and thicker, and a band of alders above them presented even more challenges. Lupe enjoyed the shade and had no problem slinking between them, but SPHP had to force a way through.

Fortunately, the alders weren’t that big yet, and didn’t extend too far up the slope. SPHP managed to get past them, and progress improved as Lupe headed for the toe of a vast, gentler slope extending ESE toward a saddle on Mount Fairplay’s broad, gently rounded S ridge.

Above and beyond the alders looking back at the RAV4 (L of Center) down at the pullout along the Taylor Highway. Photo looks WNW.

On the lower end of the gentle slope leading to the **saddle on the S ridge** (Center). **Mount Fairplay** (L). Photo looks ESE.

The bushes were quite a bit smaller up on the long, gentle slope, which looked like an easy stroll. However, prior experience had shown that the march higher wasn’t going to be as easy as it appeared. The tundra was very thick and spongy, making each step much more of an effort than it should have been. Walking on the giant slope was like taking a trek on an enormous marshmallow. Furthermore, although Lupe had never run into mosquitoes on Mount Fairplay before, they were here in such numbers today that SPHP finally had to break out the Deet.

The most significant obstacle, though, grew in great abundance. Wild blueberries were everywhere! Juicy, but their tartness this early in the season helped SPHP avoid becoming ensnarled in the blueberry trap for too long, although SPHP wouldn’t have objected to such an outcome in the least, if they’d been a little sweeter.

The long trudge higher went on with frequent short breaks, mostly due to the amount of effort required by the sponginess of the tundra. This slope usually had some nice water holes Lupe could take advantage of on it, but they were nearly all dry today. Didn’t really matter, since SPHP had brought plenty of water along. Just another indication of how hot and dry this summer had been in the far N.

Lupe eventually gave up on her stalking game. Hard to stay hidden on such an open slope! As the American Dingo gained elevation, the sky above looked quite blue, but smoke marred the views in all directions, especially toward the W.

Glancing back down the long, gentle slope. Photo looks WNW.

The terrain eventually began to steepen. Lupe came to firmer ground amid collections of rocks. For a while, big cumulus clouds boiling up E of the mountain caused some concern. SPHP kept an eye on them as Lupe continued higher.

On somewhat steeper, rockier terrain. **Mount Fairplay** (Center). Photo looks E.

Soon Mount Fairplay’s S ridge was directly ahead. This was the steepest part of the climb. Nothing to it, really. With many lanes of tundra to chose from, Lupe easily avoided most of the rocks.

Approaching the **S ridge** (Center). **Mount Fairplay** (L). Photo looks ESE.

Starting the S ridge ascent. Photo looks E.

**Mount Fairplay** (Center) from partway up. Photo looks NE.

A smoky glance back at the **Taylor Highway**, dimly seen below, from the top of the steepest part of the climb. Photo looks WSW.

Once the rate of climb started to diminish, the American Dingo could have angled NE more directly toward Mount Fairplay. Instead, Lupe stuck with tradition and kept climbing E onto the S ridge. This region was all a mix of fairly rocky terrain and thinner, much firmer tundra, which made progress significantly easier than down below.

**Mount Fairplay** (Center) as seen from rockier terrain while still on the way up to the **S ridge** (R). Photo looks NE.

Upon reaching the crest of the ridge, Mount Fairplay’s summit was less than 0.33 mile N. To the S, the broad ridge led to a rough rock formation Lupe had once explored after her 2018 ascent. Unfortunately, with such a late start, that bit of fun wasn’t going to be in the cards again today.

**Mount Fairplay** (Center) from the **S ridge**. Photo looks N.

The **dark, rugged rock formation** (R of Center) Lupe had once explored. Photo looks S.

Of the slightly more than 2000 feet of elevation gain required to reach the top of Mount Fairplay, less than 300 feet remained. Even though this final ascent was the rockiest part of the entire trek, it wasn’t difficult at all. Faint use trails ran among the rocks, often following narrow lanes of tundra that existed even this far up the mountain.

For most of the climb, Lupe stayed toward the E edge of the slope. Once near the top, she entered the summit region from the SW, her traditional approach which had always seemed easiest.

Starting the final ascent. Photo looks N.

Getting close to the top along the **E edge**. Photo looks N.

Approaching the towers of the summit region from along the W edge. Photo looks NNE.

6:54 PM, 66°F, Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) – Lupe stood atop a low wall of rock just N of the collection of towers and a metal shed near the S end of the rocky, but otherwise flat plain comprising the summit region. A white wooden pole jutted up from her back. This low wall, although not natural, had always seemed like the highest point despite a number of boulders near the E edge that were very close to the same elevation.

On the low rock wall about the **highest point on Mount Fairplay**. Photo looks NNW.

Great to be back on Mount Fairplay again, isn’t it, SPHP?

Sure is, Loopster! Congratulations on your 4th ascent here! Even though Mount Fairplay is just a big hill, I’ve always liked it ever since we first saw it way off in the distance back in 2017. From this angle, though, it looks like you’ve been skewered on a stick.

I suppose so, SPHP. What happened to the tower that used to be over by that pole?

Apparently someone removed it, Loop, but I have no idea why, or exactly what purpose it served in the first place.

After a glance at the smoky views to the SE, Lupe headed over to the white wooden pole. About a foot in diameter and 9 feet tall, it was firmly cemented into the ground.

The smoky view to the SE from the same rock wall.

By the white, wooden pole. Photo looks NNE.

Any idea what this is for, SPHP?

Uh, no. That’s even less clear than the reason the former tower was here, Loopster. The tower probably had something to do with communications or the weather.

Stumped by the tall, skinny stump then, SPHP?

You might say that. Have to admit that nothing that makes any sense comes to mind, Looper. Shall we go see if the Mount Fairplay survey marker is still over near the N end of the summit region?

Sure enough, the survey marker, a directional one pointing toward a benchmark that SPHP had never been able to find, was still there.

Lupe standing next to the **brass survey marker**. Photo looks SSW.

The **“Mt. Fairplay” directional marker**.

Near the survey marker was a view of distant hills and ridges to the N, smoky like in all other directions. The last time Lupe had been here in 2019, she’d gone down the mountain this way, a considerably longer route, but also leading to another fun exploration. Suddenly that day seemed simultaneously like only yesterday and a very long time ago.

The self-conflicted thought produced a wave of melancholy that swept over SPHP. Would have been nice to sit here along the N edge of the summit region pondering the view, but the air was dead calm.

The view to the N as Lupe stands directly over the survey marker. Photo looks NNE.

About time for a chocolate coconut bar, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yup! But the bugs are kind of bad here. Let’s go over to the W edge where there’s more of a breeze, Looper. We’ll split one over there.

Midway along the W edge, a patch of tundra provided a soft spot where Lupe could lay down in comfort. The chocolate coconut bar, the only food SPHP had brought along, turned out to be half melted. After the sticky mess was consumed, Lupe eagerly licked soft chocolate off the empty wrapper as SPHP held it open for her.

The light breeze out of the W actually did help to some extent. The bugs weren’t as bad here. Sitting together, the long green slope the Carolina Dog had come up was in sight far below. Once familiar hills and long ridges to the W were only dimly seen in the distance as if in a dream, and higher mountains that should have been visible far to the SW were completely hidden in the murk.

Overhead, the big cumulus clouds that had been building up during the ascent had shriveled away and sailed off to the E, no longer posing even a theoretical threat. Once upon a time, a squirrel that had mysteriously found it’s way up here had eluded Lupe by scrambling to the top of a pole over by the towers at the S end of the summit region, but nothing stirred today.

As if sedated by chocolate, Lupe’s eyes grew heavy. She put her head down and closed them. SPHP wrapped the purple Columbia pullover around her so she could doze in comfort.

Napping along the **W edge**. Photo looks NNW.

For a long time, SPHP sat there staring off into the haze while cradling Lupe’s head, stroking her soft fur and ears, and occasionally kissing her sweet nose, all the while speaking quietly of prior grand adventures both here at Mount Fairplay and elsewhere.

Had coming here been a mistake? The air quality seemed barely any better in Alaska than it had been back in the Yukon. Didn’t matter, the die was cast. The decision had been made. Lupe’s search for clear blue, or at least smoke-free, skies would continue. Whatever happened, being here on Mount Fairplay again was no mistake. Quite the contrary! This fleeting moment in time was both rare and precious. Best to relax and simply enjoy being here together again for as long as possible.

SPHP remembered the golden tundra, explorations in various directions, and brilliant fall colors of prior visits. On Lupe’s first night down along the Taylor Highway, an orange then yellow then white moon had come sneaking up over the S ridge in the middle of the night. For the first time ever, Lupe had seen an impressive display of the ghostly green aurora borealis dance among the stars.

8:21 PM – Gosh! Guess I dozed off, SPHP. What’s going on?

Oh, not too much, Loopster. Just been sitting here enjoying what can be seen of the views. You’ve had quite the snooze!

I had some of the most beautiful dreams, SPHP! Mount Fairplay is sort of a magical place, isn’t it?

Couldn’t agree more, Looper!

That Dingo nap did me some good. I’m feeling more energetic, SPHP. How much longer until our traditional summit hour is over?

Almost half an hour ago, Loop.

Half an hour ago? I must really have been zonked, SPHP. Guess it’s time to go, isn’t it?

Afraid so, sweet puppy. Before we depart, though, mind if we take a stroll around the perimeter of the summit region, just for a final look?

The Carolina Dog had no objections – wouldn’t take that long. In fact, Lupe seemed to enjoy her clockwise summit tour along the W edge back to the N end, then past the boulders along the E edge, and back to the towers near the S end as much as SPHP did.

**Mount Fairplay’s S ridge** (L) from the **NE edge**. Photo looks SSW.

Near the **towers at the S end of the summit region**. Photo looks S.

On one of the highest boulders at the S end. Photo looks SSW.

A final glance back before beginning the descent. Photo looks N.

8:37 PM – Lupe stood on a boulder mottled black, gray, green, and white in becoming fashion by various types of lichens. Beyond and below the American Dingo were the dark rock formation along Mount Fairplay’s S ridge, a vast open region of rolling hills, and the long green slope leading back to the highway.

Final moments in the summit region. Photo looks SSW.

Hate to say it, but I guess this is it for Mount Fairplay in 2023, Loopster. No telling how long it might be before we’re back here again, if ever. You ready to head down?

Mount Fairplay is awesome, and will always be a favorite place, but I am ready, SPHP.

The descent was a joyful, easy romp made exciting by the discovery of another caribou that Lupe detected long before SPHP did.

Back down on the S ridge. Photo looks S.

Near the end of what suddenly seemed a perfect day despite the smoke, an American Dingo still roamed happy and free across the verdant lower slopes of Mount Fairplay as a yellow orange sun sank toward the wild blue gray hills on the WNW horizon. (End 10:07 PM, 60ºF)

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track (ascent only)

Lost Chicken Hill & Mount Fairplay (8-19-19)

Mount Fairplay near Chicken, Alaska (8-25-18)

Mount Fairplay & Chicken, Alaska to the Top of the World Highway & Dawson City, Yukon Territory (9-2-17 & 9-3-17)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Lost Chicken Hill & Mount Fairplay, Alaska (8-19-19)

Day 15 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

2:31 AM, 30 ºF, Taylor Highway 0.5 mile SSW of Steele Creek Dome – Cold. And deathly quiet. Like a frozen zombie eye, a pale three-quarter moon stared down from space. A faint glow betrayed the sun’s position far to the N as it snuck along well below the horizon. Otherwise still a very dark night. Sniffing intensely, Lupe wove in and out among the bushes along the edge of the big dirt pullout.

10 minutes ago the Carolina Dog had suddenly burst into a frenzied barking spree. No sign out here now of whatever she’d detected. Might have been anything. SPHP never saw it. Perhaps best that whatever it was had vanished? As soon as the American Dingo calmed down a bit, SPHP persuaded her to retreat back into the G6.

9:23 AM, still SSW of Steele Creek Dome (4,015 ft.) – Ugh! Overslept! The sun had been up for hours! Hardly mattered. If the weather held, Lupe still had time enough to complete her adventures along the Taylor Highway today. SPHP straightened out the G6, and the American Dingo was on her way.

First stop was at the South Fork Wayside, right after crossing the bridge over the Forty Mile River. Lupe explored the forest looking for squirrels, while SPHP heated up a can of beef stew for brunch. The brown waters of the South Fork of the Forty Mile River were much lower than they had been a year ago. Loop waded in for a drink.

Near the **S Fork Wayside** picnic gazebo.

12:53 PM, 50 ºF, Mosquito Fork Dredge trailhead near Chicken, Alaska – The next stop offered a choice of adventures. A mile or two before reaching Chicken, SPHP parked the G6 at the Mosquito Fork Dredge trailhead. A nice-looking trail disappeared into the forest on its way to an overlook where an old gold mining dredge would be visible down on the Mosquito Fork of the Forty Mile River.

Truth is, peakbagging Carolina Dogs aren’t much into mining or dredges, and while forks are sometimes useful, SPHP isn’t keen on mosquitoes. Right across the Taylor Highway was a better option. Lupe could climb Lost Chicken Hill (2,150 ft.)!

Oh, let’s do that instead, SPHP! I’ll find that lost chicken! It’ll be wings and drumsticks for dinner tonight!

Heavily forested Lost Chicken Hill wasn’t much of a climb, a mere 80 feet of elevation gain or so from the trailhead, if that. Nevertheless, Lupe was enthused by the thought of hunting down that lost chicken. If she could also claim a trivial Alaskan peakbagging success as well, so much the better! After crossing the highway, she passed through a big opening carved into the S end of Lost Chicken Hill and headed up into the forest.

Starting for **Lost Chicken Hill** right across the Taylor Highway from the Mosquito Fork Dredge trailhead. Photo looks NE.

Loopster’s search for the lost chicken begins!

The dense forest was littered with small diameter deadfall, the forest floor thick with soft, spongy moss. Gently rounded Lost Chicken Hill was an easy climb. Before long, Lupe arrived at a large flat region that had to be the summit. The American Dingo prowled this way and that, but the lost chicken did not appear, and no single spot stood out as the absolute highest point.

*This seems to be about the top, but no sign of the lost chicken yet!*

Lupe sniffed and searched everywhere! She found bright red berries, she came to a variety of mushrooms and fungi, but the famous lost chicken was nowhere to be seen.

Red berries were common on Lost Chicken Hill.

Puzzling over which way the lost chicken might have gone.

I thought this would be a snap. How long has this chicken been missing, anyway, SPHP?

Not exactly sure, Looper. Probably since the gold rush days. 1880’s? 1890’s? Something like that.

So the chicken was here 130 years ago? No wonder I can’t pick up a scent!

Yeah, I’m really not that surprised, to tell you the truth.

The Carolina Dog pondered the situation.

The chicken can’t be too spry now, SPHP, but might have wandered quite a long way in 130 years. The trail is stone cold. Even if we find this chicken, it’s apt to be scrawny and tough. We should have gotten here sooner.

No doubt you’re right, Loop. Don’t worry about it. My bad. I shouldn’t have overslept.

With no chickens and no views, there didn’t seem to be much point in lingering up on Lost Chicken Hill. What the heck, Lupe had plenty of Alpo and Taste of the Wild to eat, anyway! Might as well return to the G6, and carry on. Even so, the Carolina Dog didn’t give up entirely. The whole way back she kept sniffing and exploring, just in case.

The only chickens she found, though, were the big metal ones stationed in the village of Chicken, when SPHP stopped for a quick look around.

*You can’t fool me, SPHP! These chickens aren’t even real!*

Lost Chicken Hill had been a fun romp, but only a warm-up exercise. The big prize of the day was still ahead – a favorite peak, one that Lupe had been to in both 2017 and 2018 – Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.)!

Lupe had seen Mount Fairplay on the horizon from Steele Creek Dome yesterday evening. Stopping briefly at the Mount Fairplay Wayside 30 miles S of Chicken, the mountain was now only a few miles away.

At the **Mount Fairplay Wayside**, MP 35 of the Taylor Highway.

**Mount Fairplay** (Center) from the wayside. Photo looks SE.

Mid-afternoon already, but a decent day. This was Lupe’s big chance to visit the top of Mount Fairplay for a third time. 2,000 feet of elevation gain from the highway, but a fun and easy climb.

3:06 PM, 50 ºF, Taylor Highway pullout at MP 32.8 – Quite a few clouds around, but patches of blue sky, too. Lupe crossed the Taylor Highway and started up an embankment on the other side. Experience gained during her prior ascents from this same starting point would come in handy now. The first goal was to get up on the lower end of the broad ridge leading SE toward the big saddle S of the summit.

**Mount Fairplay** (Center) from the pullout at Taylor Highway MP 32.8. Photo looks ESE.

The broad ridge wasn’t far from the highway, or much of a climb, but this first zone was full of small trees and dense stands of large bushes. Instead of heading E straight for the ridge as she had done before, Lupe angled NE (L) taking a slightly longer route hoping to avoid the worst of the bushes.

This manuever should have worked. The bushes weren’t nearly as bad this way. Less thrashing about for SPHP ought to have saved some time, but another obstacle presented itself. Blueberries! The slope leading up to the ridge was full of luscious, ripe, wild blueberries. No problem for the American Dingo, but SPHP was quickly hooked.

Are you coming, or not, SPHP? The bushes would have been faster! We’ll never get there at this pace!

Sorry, Loop, but wild blueberries are sooo scrumptious! Just a few more, and I’ll be right with you.

Inexplicably, a few more turned out to be quite a few more. Lots more, in fact, but Lupe finally did make it up onto the broad ridge. Although blueberries were up here, too, there weren’t as many. Overall there was far less vegetation. The long slope leading SE toward the big saddle was now in view.

Finally up on the lower part of the broad ridge. Photo looks WNW.

The long slope higher ahead. Photo looks SE.

Staying farther NE than during her prior ascents, Lupe headed for the big saddle more than a mile away. The slope gradually became rockier as she climbed.

Entering rockier terrain. Photo looks SE.

It was a little earlier in the year this time around. The tundra was just beginning to change to fall colors.

The tundra wasn’t quite as colorful yet as on Lupe’s earlier ascents.

Gazing along the **W flank of Mount Fairplay**. Photo looks SSW.

Typical appearance of the lichen-covered rocks.

Before Lupe reached the start of the steeper climb up to the big saddle, she came to a broad expanse of grassy tundra. In prior years, this area had been boggy, full of tiny trickling streams and numerous waterholes. Now, however, the ground was noticeably drier. Hardly any streams, and fewer waterholes. Lupe stayed on or near the rocks as long as she could before entering the wetlands.

Approaching the boggy region. Photo looks SE.

Near the end of the rocks. The saddle beyond Lupe is the pass between **HP5120** (L) and **Mount Fairplay’s summit** (R). Photo looks NE.

Close to a waterhole. **HP5120** (R of Center) in the background. Photo looks NNE.

With less sogginess to avoid, getting to the base of the steeper climb was easier than ever before. Here the terrain became rocky again. In short order, Loopster was scrambling higher.

*So far, so good! Gets quite a bit steeper from here on, though!*

After a good scramble, Loop reached an area with more vegetation again above the steepest part. She still hadn’t made it up to the big saddle SSW of the summit.

Near the end of the steepest section. Photo looks SSE.

Easier now, but still below the big saddle SSW of the summit. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe never did get to the big saddle. Instead, the Carolina Dog turned NE heading almost directly for the summit. This was a steeper, shorter route than she’d ever taken before. Lanes of tundra provided paths of least resistance between rivers of rock.

Heading for the summit (L). Photo looks NE.

Glancing back at the big saddle on the S ridge after bypassing it. Photo looks S.

The final climb was rocky and moderately steep. Following faint paths, it wasn’t long before Lupe was approaching the summit.

Still a little way to go. Photo looks NNE.

Getting close to the top. Photo looks N.

Towers, sheds, and wires came into view. Moments later, Lupe was among them. A big brown shed was close to where she’d come up. Loop headed for a small wall of rock a bit NE of it. This little rock wall still looked like the marginally highest point on the mountain.

The towers on **Mount Fairplay** come into sight. Photo looks NNE.

3rd annual appearance at the **true summit of Mount Fairplay**! Photo looks NW.

The top of Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) looked pretty much the same as before. The same towers and sheds were grouped near the S end and along the W side of the big, rough, but otherwise almost flat summit area. However, there was one important difference. Lupe was sad to learn that the very entertaining squirrel that had been up here in 2018 was gone! Not completely unexpected. What had possessed a squirrel to traipse all the way up here more than 1,500 feet above any tree or bush had always been a mystery in the first place.

The entire summit was roughly 300 feet long N/S and 100 feet wide E/W. Lupe’s reconnaissance started with the big rocks at the S end.

Looking down the S ridge. Photo looks SSW.

Near the E edge still looking down the S ridge. Photo looks SSW.

Same spot, but showing more of the S end of the summit region. Photo looks SW.

After enjoying the views to the S, Loop headed N along the E edge. She got all the way to the N end, and again found the survey marker where SPHP had first learned the name of this mountain back in 2017.

At the survey marker near the N end of the summit region.

An arrow on Survey marker No. 2 pointed S toward a wall of loose rock partially enclosing a shallow human-created depression several feet in diameter. Going over for her annual check, Lupe still did not see any other survey marker, in or out of the pit. Survey marker No. 2 was the only one she had ever found on Mount Fairplay, and that’s the way things stayed.

On the rough circular wall by the pit (L of Lupe) survey marker No. 2 points toward. Photo looks SSW.

Time for a break. At the N end, not far from survey marker No. 2, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap. The sky had clouded up completely, a nearly uniform indistinct gray, long before the Carolina Dog had reached the summit. Evening now, and quite cool, about 40 ºF with a 5-10 mph breeze out of the SW.

The clouds were fairly high, but the air below was hazy. Looking down Mount Fairplay’s broad N slope, rows of yellow-brown hills and ridges faded into oblivion. The American Dingo could see for miles, but not sharply, details concealed by the horizon-devouring haze.

Gazing down **Mount Fairplay’s N slope**. Photo looks N.

Three ascents of this overgrown E Alaska hill! Hard to believe it, but Loopster really was back. It all seemed so familiar, yet still incredibly remote. The scene was duller, more somber and serious than before. Not even that peakbagging squirrel to break the solitude. Refuge in the sky, Mount Fairplay stood besieged by a vast, empty unknown.

Lupe got hungry. Taste of the Wild was provided. Ahh, so much better! Energy came surging back. The were-puppy appeared, growling and threatening, and succeeded in snatching away SPHP’s glove.

The glove-snatching were-puppy of Mount Fairplay.

Hey, give that back!

Keep-away is a delightful game, one the were-puppy knew it would win. Not until SPHP was sufficiently humiliated did the glove lose its strange fascination. Abandoned among the rocks, SPHP finally retrieved it.

Well, thank you so much! Since you’re so perky, why don’t we take a stroll around the whole summit?

The were-puppy was fine with that.

The Taylor Highway from the W edge. The gently rounded yellow slope seen beyond Lupe is the broad ridge she had come up from R to L. Photo looks W.

View to the NW. The closest hill is **HP5120** (R of Center).

In the area that was Lupe’s approach to the summit. Photo looks SW.

At the S end again overlooking the big saddle along the S ridge. Photo looks SSW.

After a leisurely counter-clockwise circumnavigation, Lupe was back where she’d started. SPHP proposed lingering a while longer at the NW end. A bit gloomy up here, but Mount Fairplay was so fabulous! The weather wasn’t threatening, and the sun, though sinking, still gleamed among the clouds.

The summit as seen from the NW end. Photo looks S.

What are you staring at, SPHP? You going to stand there forever?

No. It’s just incredible to be here again, Loop. Enjoying, that’s all.

Still enough daylight to try something different, if we get on with it, isn’t there?

Maybe, what do you have in mind?

Let’s go down the N slope this time. Looks easy enough, and we’ve never been that way before.

*Come on! Let’s try the N slope!* Photo looks NNE.

Last year, Lupe had explored part of the S ridge beyond the big saddle on what turned out to be a gorgeous evening spent roaming the blazing, brilliant tundra. Wasn’t going to be like that today, but the Carolina Dog was right. Although longer than going back the way she had come up, the N slope appeared perfectly feasible. Ought to be able to reach the highway before dark. Why not?

I like it! Go for it, Looper. I’ll be right behind you!

An hour and twenty minutes after reaching the top of Mount Fairplay, Lupe charged far down the N slope, greatly outdistancing SPHP. She soon dashed back to encourage SPHP to hurry. Some places it was rocky enough to slow things down quite a bit, but most of the way even SPHP set a fairly lively pace on the long downhill trek.

Exploring a new route took some of the sadness out of leaving Mount Fairplay behind.

Already partway down the N slope, Lupe returns to check on SPHP. Photo looks NNE.

Overlooking the **saddle region** (Center) between **HP5120** (straight up from Lupe’s head), and **Mount Fairplay’s N ridge** (R). Photo looks N.

0.33 mile down the N ridge, Lupe turned NW descending into the broad saddle region leading to subpeak HP5120. The saddle proved boggy, so she crossed it at the highest, driest part along the NE edge.

A glance back up the N ridge during the descent. Photo looks S.

About to drop down to the saddle leading to **HP5120** on the other side. Lupe crossed this saddle at far R, then traveled along the base of **HP5120** aiming for the little pass seen on the L. Photo looks NW.

**Mount Fairplay** from the saddle. Photo looks SSE.

Once across the saddle, it wouldn’t have been too difficult to go right up and over HP5120, but doing that seemed an unnecessary expenditure of precious energy. Instead, Looper turned SW along the base of HP5120, angling slowly higher toward a minor pass.

In the small pass at the S end of **HP5120**. **Mount Fairplay** (L). Photo looks S.

Going through the pass, Lupe came to a steep, scree-covered slope. The small rocks were loose, and often gave way underpaw. A series of faint animal trails provided better support.

Traversing the **W slope of HP5120**. Photo looks NW.

The animal trails were fun to follow, and got Lupe all the way around HP5120 down to a lower part of Mount Fairplay’s NW ridge. Ahead, a long level stretch led to a much smaller hill. Approaching the top, a pole came into view. Lupe soon reached a small solar-powered installation, perhaps a weather station?

The solar-powered station on the NW ridge. A little slice of **Mount Fairplay’s summit** (straight up from Lupe) peeks up from behind **HP5120** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

All downhill from here! From the solar-powered station, the NW ridge sloped steadily down to the Taylor Highway. Still quite a trek, but an easy one practically all the way.

Looking down the NW ridge from close to the solar-powered station. Photo looks NW.

The big, rounded ridges of **Mount Fairplay’s W slopes**. Lupe had gone up the next one over. Photo looks SSW.

**Solar station hill** (L), **HP5120** (Center), **Mount Fairplay summit** (R of Center). Photo looks SE.

**Mount Fairplay** (L of Center) from well down the NW ridge. Photo looks SE.

The only tricky part came at the end. Leaving the NW ridge, the terrain steepened as Lupe turned W searching for a way down through forest and dense bushes.

It all worked out! Without getting SPHP too tangled in vegetation, Lupe managed to reach the Taylor Highway. Only an easy 0.5 mile stroll back to the G6 remained.

As she trotted along, the sky was clearing off to the N. Two years ago, the Carolina Dog had seen the Northern Lights for the first time from the pullout at MP 32.8 W of Mount Fairplay where she’d be staying tonight. Maybe she’d get lucky again! (End 9:38 PM, 44 ºF)