Dalton Highway – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited, Alaska (8-31-22 & 9-1-22)

Days 33 & 34 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-31-22, 9:33 AM, Dalton Highway MP 275, Galbraith Lake campground –

Good morning, and about time, SPHP! How are your paws?

Still sore, but better. Thanks for asking, Loop. Going to be a day or two before I climb any more mountains, though. And how are you?

Ready to do some sniffing, if you’ll let me out of the RAV4, SPHP.

I will. Won’t be joining you, though. This should be a good day to catch up the trip journal while I’m incapacitated. Have fun out there!

The Carolina Dog bounded out of the RAV4 as soon as SPHP opened the door. Apparently, her paws were just fine.

Yesterday’s brief Dingo Summer was gone. Completely overcast. Not a speck of blue sky! The clouds were high enough so that the summits of nearby peaks were in sight, but bigger peaks farther S along the spine of the Brooks Range were hidden.

After yesterday’s relative calm, the S wind was back at it again. Yellow leaves were flying off the tall bushes surrounding the campsite. Last day of August, and the bushes were already looking rather bare. Here on the N side of the Brooks Range, winter was plotting its return sometime in the not too distant future.

Last day of August at the **Galbraith Lake campground**.

SPHP worked fairly diligently on the trip journal, but also eventually did manage to hobble along with Lupe on occasional short strolls.

This region near Galbraith Lake is a nice dry spot when the wind is out of the S like this, SPHP! If we stay here again tonight, maybe we can climb Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) tomorrow?

I’d really like to, Loopster, but conditions are pretty gloomy. If I knew for sure it would be sunny tomorrow, I’d be in favor of staying. However, I’d also like to see if the weather is better S of Atigun Pass. Haven’t forgotten about Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.). Would sure like to get another shot it.

As dark as those clouds are to the S, it’s still going to be rainy down there, SPHP. What will we do, if it is?

Love the Brooks Range, but Alaska is a big place. Lots of other beautiful parts of Alaska that I’m hoping we can visit on this Dingo Vacation, Loop. We’ll find something wonderful to do!

Mid-afternoon, SPHP joined Lupe on a last great romp around the entire Galbraith Lake campground. During gusts of the S wind, yellow leaves continued to fly as the American Dingo enjoyed her last outing on the N side of the Brooks Range.

Sad to even think about leaving! If the sky had started to clear up at all by now, Lake Benchmark Mountain would be on the agenda tomorrow, but conditions remained as overcast and gray as they had been earlier.

8-31-22, 3:38 PM, 55ºF, Dalton Highway MP 276 – After driving 2 miles N up the first big hill, SPHP turned around, then started back down before parking the RAV4 right along the highway.

Last chance for a good look at Galbraith Lake, Looper, but let’s be quick! Don’t want to be sitting here when the next big truck comes along.

**Galbraith Lake** from the Dalton Highway. Photo looks S.

The weather deteriorated during the drive S to Atigun Pass (4,739 ft.), pretty much as expected. 10 miles before Lupe actually got that far, the dry region near Galbraith Lake was left behind. Mist and light rain fell. The mountains were lost in fog. The Dalton Highway turned sloppy. Still hauntingly beautiful, though! Lupe made a couple of brief stops before continuing on.

Upper **Atigun River valley**. Photo looks S.

Start of the Dalton Highway’s nearly 1,000 foot climb to Atigun Pass. Photo looks SSE.

8-31-22, 4:39 PM, 41ºF, Atigun Pass (4,739 ft.) – Somewhat surprisingly, the pass itself was only sporadically foggy, conditions relatively benign. The S breeze driving one cloud after another through the pass was only 10 mph. During breaks in the fog, Lupe could actually see something of the mountains. Everything was wet, but it wasn’t cold enough to be icy, although a skiff of new snow did exist way up near the summits.

Continuing S from the pass, the sky darkened. A dreary, steady rain set in, and the Dalton Highway became a sea of mud. Big trucks ahead of the RAV4 crawled along kicking up a mucky spray. SPHP stopped at the Chandalar Shelf to let them get farther ahead. The American Dingo got out for a few minutes to enjoy a sniff.

The Chandalar Shelf was visible, but Table Mountain (6,314 ft.), where Lupe had such an incredible adventure not that long ago, and all other peaks in this region were completely hidden from view.

The **Chandalar Shelf** from the **Dalton Highway pullout at MP 238**. Photo looks SE.

8-31-22, 6:02 PM, 50ºF, Dalton Highway MP 207 – SPHP was glad to get back to pavement at MP 209, stopping only a couple of miles farther at the pullout near Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.). The clouds were higher and brighter here, with only light rain.

Hungry, Loop? We haven’t had much to eat today.

Famished, SPHP! Say, isn’t this the start of my 2016 Last Mile North?

Yup! I’ll heat us up something for dinner, then we’ll do your 2016 last mile N hike again, since it’s always relaxing and so much fun.

Chicken and dumplings, plus Ritz crackers, were what was for dinner. Lupe was happy with that.

8-31-22, 7:08 PM – The Carolina Dog was even happier when she got to repeat her 2016 last mile N for the 3rd time on this Dingo Vacation. Still overcast, but the rain was only intermittent by the time she crossed the Dalton Highway, and went past the gate over the access road leading to the Alaska oil pipeline.

Heading out for a romp along the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks NW.

The familiar 1+ mile stroll N along the pipeline right-of-way was as easy and pleasant as always. A little sunshine on the mountains would have been nice, but that clearly wasn’t in the cards. Even so, the cool, moist gloom did nothing to dampen the American Dingo’s spirits, and the fall colors now at their height here added scenic brilliance.

**Dillon Mountain** from the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks E.

Falls colors along the pipeline right-of-way. Photo looks NE.

Upon reaching Dillon Creek, Lupe turned W into the mossy forest where nature had rolled out the red carpet for her. The forest rang with the shrill bark of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood once more, as she sniffed and explored, racing this way and that while searching for squirrels with some success.

8-31-22, 8:01 PM – 0.6 mile from the Alaska oil pipeline, Lupe reached the confluence of the Dietrich River and Dillon Creek. This was the endpoint of her now traditional 2016 last mile N trek. Another 10 miles N, the top of Lupe’s Mountain of the Midnight Sun was wrapped in clouds, as had been the case every time this Dingo Vacation. Nevertheless, it was still amazing just being back at this magical place again.

At the confluence of the **Dietrich River** (L) and **Dillon Creek** (R). Lupe’s **Mountain of the Midnight** **Sun** (L of Center). Photo looks N.

Must have been raining practically every day since we were last here prior to heading N for Deadhorse, SPHP. The river is higher now.

Highest we’ve ever seen it, Loop, but then we’re always here in August. Bet even Dillon Creek is a torrent when the snow melts in late spring.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, congratulating the Carolina Dog on her return to this long favorite spot, once the farthest N she had ever been. The evening was cool and gray, but Lupe lingered for a little while. Back to the S, Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) was nearly cloud-free. Its soaring N fin didn’t look as dramatic as usual against the drab sky.

**Sukakpak Mountain** (Center), **Dietrich River** (R). Photo looks S.

Sadly, unless things changed in a hurry, which appeared very unlikely, Lupe wasn’t going to get to climb Sukakpak Mountain again on this Dingo Vacation.

Not looking too good for Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.), either, is it, SPHP?

Afraid not, Loopster. We may never get there.

A last glance up Dillon Creek, and SPHP sighed.

Well, I suppose it’s time, Loop. Onward! Puppy, ho!

**Dillon Creek** (L), **Dillon Mountain** (R). Photo looks ESE.

The return was marvelous as always. Near the end, Lupe tacked on the short extra jaunt S to where the Alaska oil pipeline crossed the Dietrich River. The Dalton Highway bridge was visible from here, as well as the great N fin of Sukakpak Mountain. The rest of the summit region was back in the clouds again.

We’re going to miss this place, aren’t we, SPHP?

Always, Loop. We’re so lucky we ever got to see and experience it.

**Dalton Highway bridge** (Center) over the **Dietrich River**, **Sukakpak Mountain** (R). Photo looks SSE.

9-1-22, 8:16 AM, 48ºF, Dalton Highway MP 207 – Totally overcast again this morning, a slight bluish tint to the clouds the last hopeful sign to cling to as far as any remaining possibility for another adventure in the Brooks Range. Fog drifted among the mountains as Lupe roamed the forest barking at squirrels, while SPHP straightened out the RAV4.

Don’t go too far, Loop! We’ll be heading S in just a few minutes.

9-1-22, 9:45 AM, 50ºF, MP 175, Coldfoot Camp – Gas was still $7.49 per gallon, but the breakfast buffet was terrific! $16.95, tax included. After a hearty meal, SPHP bought a souvenir at the gift shop, then brought Lupe 5 big strips of bacon. She only got 1 of them right away, though.

Started raining again, so the Brooks Range was definitely over and done with for this Dingo Vacation. Before continuing S, Lupe dropped by the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center just across the highway, and received a 2nd bacon strip.

The **Artic Interagency Visitor Center** at Coldfoot.

9-1-22, 12:32 PM, 57ºF, MP 115 – Intermittent rain kept the rest of the drive S through the Brooks Range sloppy. Nearly 2 weeks after crossing the Arctic Circle, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood reached it again. Conditions were drier here. A 3rd bacon strip helped celebrate the occasion.

We’ve been up N a while, haven’t we, SPHP? Seems like the Arctic Circle is way down S now!

Yeah! We’ve had quite a time, Loopster. Been fabulous! So glad we came, and went all the way to Deadhorse again!

It’s been wonderful, SPHP! Where to now, though?

Not entirely sure. Don’t have to worry about that quite yet, anyway, Loop. Still have a few stops ahead of us before we get back to Fairbanks. Getting low on supplies, so we’ll buy some there, then figure it out.

9-1-22, 1:28 PM, 49ºF, Dalton Highway MP 98 – Raining again, but Lupe had to stop here! Climbing Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.) wouldn’t take long. Even beneath the dull, gray sky, the colors along the short nature trail winding up to the collection of boulders forming the summit were incredibly vivid. So much orange and red that the scenery looked fake!

**Finger Mountain summit** (L of Center) from the nature trail. Photo looks NW.

Despite the rain, Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) was dimly visible 7 miles WNW. Lupe had been there before, too, but that was an all day affair.

**Caribou Mountain** (Center) beyond the **Dalton Highway**. Photo looks WNW.

Of course, the American Dingo couldn’t complete the tiny scramble to the top all on her own. Those 2 summit boulders were way too tall! As usual, SPHP helped Lupe out with a boost.

How many times have I been up here, SPHP? Do you remember?

This is your 7th ascent of Finger Mountain, Loop!

Lucky me, SPHP!

You certainly are, Loopster! Bet you hold the Dingo world record for Finger Mountain ascents!

7th time on the none-too-roomy **Finger Mountain summit**.

**Finger Mountain wayside** (L). **Dalton Highway** (R). Photo looks SE.

As a reward for Lupe’s latest successful ascent of Finger Mountain, SPHP doled out the 4th of the 5 bacon strips from Coldfoot Camp.

You gorged yourself at the breakfast buffet, SPHP! I know you did! Why so stingy about doling out my bacon strips?

Gives you something to look forward to at every stop, Loop. You should be glad I’m distributing them one by one.

Even Carolina Dogs have a hard time celebrating deliberate deprivation, SPHP!

9-1-22, 2:44 PM, 56ºF, MP 56 – Be that as it may, the Carolina Dog seemed happy enough to get the 5th and final bacon strip upon reaching the bridge over the Yukon River again. A tour bus arrived at the same time. Fortunately, the local tour started off with everyone paying a visit to the nearby Yukon River Camp. Meanwhile, Lupe had the N bank of the river all to herself during a short sniff along the water’s edge.

Along the **N shore of the mighty Yukon River**. Photo looks W.

**Dalton Highway bridge** over the **Yukon River**. Photo looks S.

9-1-22, 4:14 PM, 57ºF – Well, sadly, inevitably, it was over. Once again, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stood by the sign at the start of the Dalton Highway, two full weeks of glorious adventures along this road to the true Arctic now in the rear view mirror.

Back at the **start of the Dalton Highway**.

I understand what you mean about the advantages of doling out the bacon strips gradually now, SPHP! Are you sure you don’t have one more?

Sorry, Loop. 5 was all I had. You ate the last one back at the Yukon River.

In that case, you should have brought me 6 from the buffet, SPHP! Surely, the start of the Dalton Highway is worthy of a bacon strip!

Absolutely, Loop! Next time, I’ll have to be more careful with the count.

A lot of good that does me now, SPHP!

Life has its little disappointments, Loopster. Let’s just be grateful for all the marvelous adventures we’ve had.

Oh, I am, SPHP! We had some grand times along the Dalton Highway. Hope it won’t be so long next time before we return!

9-1-22, 5:50 PM, 57ºF, Fairbanks – The pavement was actually dry along much of the Elliot Highway, but by the time Lupe reached Fairbanks the sky was spitting rain again. SPHP spent a couple of hours getting free potable water at Pioneer Park, buying supplies, and fueling up the RAV4 at the now super cheap by comparison price of a mere $4.49 per gallon.

This roasted lemon pepper chicken was a great idea, SPHP! Delicious!

Yup, we’ve done a number on it, too, Loop. Not much left.

So, what now, SPHP?

Depends. Let me check the weather forecast on our fancy schmancy new iPhone. Hmm. Not that great. Sunny tomorrow, but rainy after that.

Any mountains we can climb around here in a day, SPHP?

Oh, I think we’ve got a good option on your list of possibilities, Loop. Been on your list for years. Maybe it’s about time we checked it out?

Onward then, SPHP!

9-1-22, 8:00 PM, Fairbanks – The sky was merely overcast when Lupe left Fairbanks heading N again. At Fox, SPHP took the Steese Highway. Rain showers returned as the light began to fade.

9-1-22, 8:53 PM, Upper Chatanika River State Recreation Site – A sniff along the Chatanika River proved to be Lupe’s last chance to stretch near the end of a day spent mostly in the RAV4. She didn’t go far, but if the forecast was right, the Carolina Dog would be back in action tomorrow!

**N of Atigun Pass**, Dalton Highway MP 254, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-31-22.

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lake Benchmark Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-19-17)

Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-15-16)

Lupe’s Last Mile North, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-14-16)

Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-13-16)

Cathedral Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-17-17)

Caribou Mountain, Alaska (8-16-17)

Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Beaver Slide Mountain, the Arctic Circle, and the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center, Alaska (8-19-22)

Part 2 of Day 21 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

10:11 AM, 47ºF – After leaving Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.), the Dalton Highway gradually descended to the Kanuti River, crossed it, and began to climb again.

Hey, Loop! Skies are pretty cloudy up ahead, and the last forecast we had said 70% chance of rain in Coldfoot today, so I don’t think there’s any big rush to get there. We’re coming to a big hill that I’d more or less forgotten about since the last time we were here in 2017. Should be an easy climb. Are you interested?

Will we still get to the Arctic Circle today, SPHP?

Oh, yeah! No sweat! We’re practically to it already, Looper. In fact, we’re so close that I’m thinking of naming this hill Subarctic Peak, since it’s only about 5 miles S of the Arctic Circle.

Subarctic Peak, SPHP? I like it! Sounds like a cool name for my first new Alaskan peak in 3 years. Let’s do it!

11:26 AM, 49ºF, near MP110 – The Dalton Highway went right on up and over Subarctic Peak’s E shoulder. Parking the RAV4 alongside an Alaska oil pipeline access road conveniently close to the high point, SPHP then shared a light lunch of cheese and Ritz crackers with the Carolina Dog.

Well, that ought to be about enough, Looper. You were urpy this morning, remember? Ready for a romp up Subarctic Peak?

Yes, but I’m even more ready for more cheese and crackers, SPHP.

I know, but let’s not overdue it. C’mon! Onward! Puppy, ho!

Setting out for **Subarctic Peak** (L). Photo looks W.

Trotting a short distance NW to the Dalton Highway’s high point, Lupe came to a sign.

What does it say, SPHP?

Says “Beaver Slide”, Loop.

Beaver Slide? Odd, what’s that supposed to mean, SPHP?

It means I was wrong, Loopster. I just assumed this hill didn’t have a name, but it does. Beaver Slide is a name assigned by the truckers who first drove the Dalton Highway during its construction.

Well, it’s a funny name, SPHP. You mean to tell me that the first new peak I’m climbing in Alaska is actually Beaver Slide? Subarctic Peak sounded way more daunting, maybe even dangerous!

Maybe so, Loop, but it is what it is. Besides, maybe Beaver “Slide” actually does imply some real danger to a trucker on the long approaches during icy conditions?

Oh, well then, that’s different, SPHP! Beaver Slide Mountain (2,600 ft.), or bust!

Going a little beyond the crest of the Dalton Highway prior to crossing over to the W side, the ditch was full of water. Backtracking to the high point, the ditch was drier. Lupe was reluctant to follow SPHP through thick vegetation toward a line of tall bushes until discovering a faint path that got her past them.

Emerging from the tall bushes, the path continued up a mixed slope of tundra and much lower bushes. A couple of sizable rock outcroppings were ahead. Beyond them a series of high points were in sight along Beaver Slide Mountain’s N ridge.

Heading for the **N ridge**. Photo looks WNW.

The path went W up a shallow drainage that was wet in spots. Only a few days past mid-August, but the tundra was already sporting amazing autumn colors. Brilliant reds of the alpine bearberries were the most dazzling of all.

On a dazzling carpet of alpine bearberries.

Passing between the 2 rock outcroppings, the path turned NW along the back side of the larger one. Lupe left the trail here to scramble up onto a small stony ridge. Gazing ESE back toward the start, the RAV4 was only a blue dot down by the Dalton Highway and the Alaska oil pipeline.

**Dalton Highway** and **Alaska oil pipeline** from the first stony ridge. Photo looks ESE.

To the W, an easy tundra slope led up to a saddle between the 2 high points farthest N along Beaver Slide Mountain’s N ridge.

The **saddle** (L of Center) on **Beaver Slide Mountain’s N ridge**. Photo looks W.

During the gorgeous trek up to the saddle, Lupe passed a few more wet spots, but the tundra was dry by the time she reached it. Several rocky high points were now visible off to the S, the most distant one being the apparent summit. Another high spot was only a short distance N.

**Beaver Slide Mountain summit** (L of Center). Photo looks S.

**Northernmost high point** (R of Center) along the **N ridge**. Photo looks N.

I know it’s the lowest one, but want to check out the N high point, SPHP?

Sure! Why not, Loop? We’re almost there already.

At the N high point, a knob of rock made a terrific Dingo perch offering some great views. The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline were off to the E and N. The 3 high points the American Dingo would head for next were due S. Perhaps the most intriguing view was of a big dome 7 miles WNW.

On the **N high point**. **Summit** (R of Center) in the middle. Photo looks S.

**Beaver Slide Mountain’s N high point**. Lupe started from the side road (L) linking the **Dalton Highway** and the **Alaska oil pipeline**. Photo looks SE.

**Dalton Highway** heading off to the N. Photo looks NNW.

The **intriguing dome** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

That’s a cool dome, SPHP! Looks like it wouldn’t be hard to get to, either.

Maybe someday, Miss Ambitious, but we’re not going that far today.

Does it have a name, SPHP?

Nanuk Benchmark (2,688 ft.), Looper. Or Nanuk Dome, if you prefer.

If we’re not going there today, SPHP, at least put it on my list of future possibilities.

I will, Loopster! Ready to continue on to the next high point?

Might as well hit ’em all, SPHP!

Following the broad ridge S to the next high point, Lupe was soon there. Like the N high point, this one featured a rocky Dingo perch, too.

Heading for the **next high point** (L). Photo looks S.

On the **2nd high point**. **1st (N) high point** (R). Photo looks N.

Two higher points were still farther S. Lupe passed a smaller crag on the way to the third high point, which was capped with a ridge of boulders. Getting up onto the third high point required a little bit of a scramble, but nothing the Carolina Dog wasn’t up to.

**Summit** (Center), and the **3rd high point** (R of Center). Photo looks S.

Approaching the **3rd high point** (Center). Photo looks S.

**3rd high point** (L), **1st high point** (Center), **2nd high point** (R). Photo looks N.

On the **3rd high point**. Photo looks SSW.

**Beaver Slide Mountain summit** (L) from the **3rd high point**. Photo looks SSW.

Only one more high point to go! From the 3rd high point, it still looked like the true summit of Beaver Slide Mountain, too, although there might possibly be something a little higher still unseen beyond it.

The S end of the 3rd high point was so precipitous that Loopster had to scramble down to the E before continuing her trek S.

**Beaver Slide Mountain summit** (Center). Photo looks S.

Starting the scramble down off the **3rd high point**. Photo looks NW.

Passing a couple of minor ridges on the way to the summit. Photo looks WSW.

1:07 PM, 52ºF, Beaver Slide Mountain (2,600 ft.) – The slope leading to the true summit was both gentler and longer than any of the other high points had been. The summit region was much more spacious, and less rugged, too. Lupe arrived to find a metal rod jutting up from the rocks, but that was it.

Heading up to the true summit. Photo looks S.

At the **true summit of Beaver Slide Mountain**. Photo looks N.

Congratulations, Loopster! May I shake your paw?

Of course, SPHP! Talk about easy! Beaver Slide Mountain is cake! Nothing dangerous about it at all.

Well, I kind of figured this one wasn’t too tough, Loopster, but look at these views! Worthwhile, wouldn’t you say? Personally, I think they’re marvelous!

Oh, I most definitely agree, SPHP. Glad we came! Naturally, I’d appreciate these views even more, if you happen to have a chocolate coconut bar.

Luck of the Dingo, I do!

Sitting down together in a 10 mph NW breeze, the chocolate coconut bar quickly vanished without a trace. For nearly half an hour, Lupe stayed on SPHP’s lap surveying the magnificent views in all directions. Beneath mostly cloudy skies, Beaver Slide Mountain itself never seemed to be in sunshine, but patches of sunlight could be seen drifting across a vast empty land of rolling hills and valleys.

The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline were still in sight to the E. A tiny blip was identifiable as the top of Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.) far to the SE only because the Dalton Highway went right by it.

**Dalton Highway** and **Alaska oil pipeline** (Center & R). Photo looks NE.

Nearly due S, Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) was 7 miles away. Lupe had been there 5 years ago. Seeing it again from here produced a wistful, funny feeling.

**Caribou Mountain** (Center) on the horizon. Photo looks S.

7 miles WNW, Nanuk Dome (2,688 ft.) continued to entice. A few miles closer, and Lupe would have set out for it today.

**Nanuk Dome** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

But it was the view more directly W here, where unspoiled hills and ridges extended seemingly to the end of the world somewhere beyond vision, that felt most compelling. Lupe could roam there forever!

1:49 PM, Beaver Slide Mountain –

Getting sunnier, SPHP. It’s wonderful here, but if we aren’t going to go any farther, maybe we should head back? I still want to visit the Arctic Circle today, and if we get far enough N afterwards, maybe we can be ready to do something in the Brooks Range tomorrow?

Alrighty, Looper. Hate to leave, but I guess that makes sense. If it’s sunny in the Brooks Range tomorrow, you’re right! We won’t want to miss out.

Final moments on **Beaver Slide Mountain**. Photo looks N.

The return was a super easy, scenic romp across the beautiful tundra. Lupe went by all the high points she’d visited during her ascent, but did not climb any of them again.

Approaching the **3rd high point** (Center) on the way back. Photo looks N.

Leaving an enchanted land! **3rd high point** (L). Photo looks SW.

Once back to the RAV4 (3:00 PM, 59ºF), the Arctic Circle was only another 5 miles N. Didn’t take long to get there, but so many people were coming and going that Lupe had to wait quite a while for her turn in front of the big sign.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was back! On this happy day, Lupe reached the true Arctic again for the 5th time!

3 years ago, the Arctic Circle was as far N as the American Dingo made it. She’d arrived along the Dempster Highway in Yukon Territory in a miserable cold rain on the verge of becoming a snowstorm that might easily have stranded the old G6. Through the gloom, Lupe had seen new snow on the Richardson Mountains before SPHP felt obliged to beat a hasty retreat.

She hadn’t been this far N since.

6:00 PM, Coldfoot, MP175 – No stopping Looper today, though! 60 miles N of the Arctic Circle at Coldfoot Camp in the Brooks Range, she waited in the RAV4 while SPHP gorged on the evening buffet. The only choice available from 5:00 PM to 9:00 PM, the buffet was $27.95, tax included.

So, was it worth it? You should have seen the Carolina Dog’s eyes light up when SPHP produced a big barbecued beef rib with plenty of savory meat attached. Munching and crunching away, Lupe devoured it, bone and all! So deliciously satisfying!

Gasoline was a mere $7.499 per gallon. The Brooks Range is no place to get stingy! SPHP let the RAV4 quench its thirst.

**Coldfoot Camp**. One operational gas pump. Better get it while the getting’s good!

The Arctic Interagency Visitor Center right across the Dalton Highway from Coldfoot Camp was open until 9:00 PM, giving SPHP a chance to play tourist after dinner while Lupe relaxed in the RAV4.

Sign at the turn off the Dalton Highway to the **Arctic Interagency Visitor Center**.

At the **Arctic Interagency Visitor Center**.

The visitor center proved to have lots of free brochures, some really nice displays, and a friendly, helpful staff. SPHP liked the dioramas best, and even attended a 40 minute long ranger talk held just before closing time.

9:40 PM, Dalton Highway N of Coldfoot – After crossing 2 bridges over the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River, a side road appeared on the R beyond MP195. After making the turn, this side road led to an enormous open space. Ahead stood a huge mountain, all golden in the late evening sun. A skiff of new snow was visible near the top.

This must be the place, Loop!

What place, SPHP? Are we going to climb that mountain?

Weather permitting, that’s the plan, Looper. Think this is where Andrew Holman and Abbey Collins set out for Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.) less than a year ago.

So, that’s Poss Mountain, SPHP?

Believe so, Loopster. Been wanting to take a stab at Poss ever since we first saw it from Sukakpak Mountain back in 2016.

Poss Mountain looks mighty steep, SPHP! Really think we can climb it?

Don’t know, Loop. Might be beyond us. Shall we find out?

On **Beaver Slide Mountain**, Yukon-Koyukuk Ranges, Alaska 8-19-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Beaver Slide Mountain GPS Track (Ascent)

Caribou Mountain, Alaska 8-16-17

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

North to Alaska – Return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! (8-17-22)

Days 19, 20, and Part 1 of Day 21 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-17-22, 7:19 AM, 55ºF, grassy bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake – Rained all night, and was still raining as Loopster got underway again. The 20 km gravel road back to the Alaska Highway was a sea of mud, the poor RAV4 a filthy mess by the time SPHP turned W onto the pavement. When the American Dingo reached Haines Junction, though, the RAV4 was looking shiny and new again, except for the rear end, which the rain hadn’t been able to wash off.

How far are we going today, SPHP?

Dunno, Loop. Depends on how long this rain continues. All the way to Alaska, easy, if it keeps up like this.

Alaska! Today? Are we really that close to Alaska, SPHP?

Yup! Remember when we climbed AB Mountain near Skagway, and you became the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, Loop? We already passed the turn to Skagway before we even got to Whitehorse.

We skipped Skagway? Why? What part of Alaska are we going to, SPHP?

As far N as we can, Looper!

The Brooks Range, SPHP?

And beyond! Deadhorse, sweet puppy! I want to see the North Slope. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is returning to the true Arctic! Of course, we won’t get that far in a day, but what’s the rush? We’ll be traveling through some fabulous territory. If things dry out, we’ll be making stops at some great spots you’ll recognize along the way.

N of Haines Junction, it was only 48ºF as SPHP drove past Decoeli. Lost in rain and fog, there was no recognizing that fabulous peak.

8-17-22, 10:02 AM – Only a short time later, the pavement was dry as SPHP made the turn off the highway onto the big pullout at the S end of Kluane Lake. Clouds hung gloomily over Sheep Mountain, but at least it wasn’t raining. A SW wind kicked up dust over in the Slims River valley. A lot of memories here as Lupe took a stroll along the lakeshore.

**Kluane Lake**. **Sheep Mountain** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Slims River valley** (Center) from **Kluane Lake**. **Sheep Mountain** (R). Photo looks WSW.

So long since the last time Lupe had been here that SPHP decided to stay a while. With a view of the mountains marching away to the N beyond Kluane Lake, SPHP spent a couple of hours working on the trip journal, glancing up now and then to watch the waves roll in. Loop slept on her pink blanket, enjoying the rest after her windy ascent of Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.) yesterday.

Taking a second leisurely stroll along the lake before moving on, Lupe went farther this time. The weather was even more unsettled now, the wind picking up, and the waves larger than they’d been earlier. SPHP enjoyed the walk right along the shoreline best, but the Carolina Dog preferred sniffing among the young aspens beyond the beach on the way back to the RAV4.

8-17-22, 1:13 PM, 59ºF – Light rain set in again as the drive N resumed along the W shore of Kluane Lake. This shower was soon left behind, though, and blue sky appeared. Hit 65ºF! For the first time today, a clear view of the mountains to the W was possible. SPHP daydreamed about climbing them, a mountain NW of Burwash Creek looked particularly interesting.

8-17-22, 2:34 PM – Didn’t seem to take hardly any time at all to get here. The weather was kind of crazy. Blue skies were nearly gone again. Cool and breezy, big clouds, dust, and fog filled the sky. Distant views of the St. Elias Mountains to the W vanished almost as soon as Lupe arrived.

However, she could still see one awesome mountain just beyond the Alaska Highway bridge over the Donjek River.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** from the **Donjek River**. Photo looks E.

Donjek Crossing Mountain, SPHP! Remember when we climbed it? Oh, what a fabulous day that was!

Heh! It was nearly your last day ever, too, Looper, if you recall!

Lunch time! The Donjek River was another favorite spot. Might as well eat here. Loop took strolls down along the river both before and after lunch. The weather continued acting up. Dust, wind, fog, patches of blue sky, intermittent rain drops, and peels of thunder! A bizarro day, but it was fun being here.

Near the mighty **Donjek River**. Photo looks SSW.

Enjoying all natural mineral water from the silt-laden **Donjek**. Photo looks SSW.

SPHP completely caught up the trip journal. Tempting to stay right here, but it wasn’t that late in the day yet, and Alaska was calling!

Onward! Puppy, ho!

8-17-22, 5:46 PM – Another magnificent river wasn’t that much farther N, one Lupe had never really spent much time at, since it wasn’t as easily accessible as the Donjek. Skies were only partly cloudy when she got to the White River, so taking this opportunity to scout it out a little better seemed in order.

Horsecamp Hill (4,600 ft.) had been on Lupe’s list of possibilities for years, and SPHP wanted to get a better look at it, too. Might be some awesome views from up there, if it wasn’t too heavily forested.

**White River** upstream view. Photo looks S.

Downstream view of the **White River**. **Horsecamp Hill** (L). Photo looks N.

N of the White River, SPHP was surprised at the number of potholes and stretches of gravel. The Alaska Highway had deteriorated in the past few years. All still perfectly passable, though, at somewhat reduced speeds.

8-17-22, 7:03 PM – Well, actually 6:03 PM Alaska time! Lupe was here!

Entering **Alaska** for the first time in 3 years!

This is a terrific sign, SPHP! Why haven’t we ever stopped here before?

Because I never thought to look for a Welcome to Alaska sign until after we went through US Customs, Loop, and this sign comes just before it.

8-17-22, 6:13 PM – After 2 questions, the customs agent returned SPHP’s passport, wishing Lupe a good day.

Congratulations Miss Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! You’re in!

Thank you, SPHP! That was easy!

As always! Helps that you’ve got an innocent, trustworthy face, Loop!

92 miles to Tok! A peaceful evening drive through a region of low hills ensued. Tall, thin, Dr. Suess-like trees of the boreal forest extended far and away on both sides of the Alaska Highway.

8-17-22, 8:00 PM – Missed it! Turning around, SPHP drove back to a big, paved pullout less than 25 miles from Tok. Not a soul here other than an annoying number of mosquitoes. Not much of a view, either, but this would do for the night.

8-18-22, 7:12 AM, 58ºF – Clear and sunny in Tok! Compared to what it had been in Canada, cheap gas, too. At a mere $4.769 per gallon, SPHP filled the RAV4 completely.

Lupe had only been on the last stretch of the Alaska Highway from Tok to Delta Junction once before, and SPHP had little recollection of it. This was not mountainous territory, most of the drive merely hilly to pancake flat. Highlights included bridges over 3 rivers, the Robertson, Johnson, and Gerstle. Large, braided streams, they were somewhat reminiscent of the Donjek and White.

8-18-22, 9:53 AM – N of Delta Junction, SPHP stopped at a pullout along the Tanana River. Time to get out, have a look, and sniff the air for a few minutes. No sooner had Lupe ventured over to the river’s edge than a couple of boys came running over. They asked a million questions about Lupe, wanted to pet her, and were anxious to show SPHP a couple of sticks they had been whittling with jack knives.

New found friends by the **Tanana River**.

Gray with silt, the Tanana was like all the other big rivers Lupe had been seeing. Snow-capped peaks beyond it were an inspiring sight, but a long way off. A few miles later, another pullout on a bluff provided a better overall view of the Tanana River itself.

Magnificent, unidentified peaks beyond the **Tanana River**.

The American Dingo went into a barking frenzy prompted by low-flying jets near Eielson AFB. North Pole wasn’t much farther, and Fairbanks was just beyond that.

Beneath sunny skies with puffy white clouds, Lupe reached Fairbanks for the first time in 5 years before noon. Last chance to to resupply and fuel up with cheap gas! Free potable water at Pioneer Park, too. Once those tasks were taken care of, the Carolina Dog was free to move on. Everything was going according to plan. Only one problem.

Decision time, Loop.

About what, SPHP?

About where to go, Looper.

I thought we already knew? We’re heading N, right, SPHP?

That was the plan, but now I’m not so sure. Checked the weather forecast for Coldfoot when we got into town. It’s completely flipped from the last forecast the iPhone gave me back in Whitehorse 3 days ago. Coldfoot was supposed to be sunny and clear for a whole week. Now that we’ve come all this way, it’s saying 90% chance of rain today, 70% tomorrow, and cloudy for days after that.

Well, what are our options, SPHP?

We could delay our jaunt N by a couple of days, Loop. The forecast looks a little better down here. Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) is NE out the Steese Highway. Might be fun?

You decide, SPHP! I’m happy either way.

After dithering for half an hour, SPHP made a questionable decision, continuing due N at Fox.

The drive to Livengood was beautiful! Elliot Highway No. 2 wound up and down heavily forested ridges separated by deep valleys. Not much traffic, except some big trucks. Knew where those were coming from!

8-18-22, 5:21 PM – Blinking in the late afternoon sunshine, Lupe stood in front of a sign she hadn’t seen in nearly 5 years. Must have rained not too long ago, because the pullout in front of it was muddy.

At the **start of the 414 mile long Dalton Highway**.

Naturally, the Dalton Highway was damp and muddy in spots, too. The rear end of the RAV4 was soon on its way back to being a filthy mess, but that was to be expected sooner or later on the Dalton even in the best of times. The drive was awesome! Occasional sprinkles from silver-lined clouds, the pale blue sky of the far N over dark green forests, and from some of the highest ridges, views of distant hills and mountains of the trackless wilderness.

After not having been here for so many years, it was like returning to a world once glimpsed in a long forgotten dream.

Near MP40. Out for a short stroll along the scenic **Dalton Highway**.

8-18-22, 7:00 PM – MP56! Lupe stood at the upper end of the bridge over the Yukon River, first big scenic landmark along the Dalton Highway. Although traffic was only intermittent, it wasn’t a good idea to stand there too long. A quick photo, and SPHP called her back.

On the **Dalton Highway bridge over the Yukon River**. Photo looks NNE.

Much safer to check out the mighty Yukon River from the N bank. After driving over the bridge, SPHP parked the RAV4 near an old friend, the Alaska oil pipeline. Lupe was happy to see it again before wandering over to the river for a look.

By the **Alaska oil pipeline**. Photo looks N.

**Dalton Highway bridge** from the N bank. Photo looks SW.

Down by the **N bank**. Photo looks SSE.

Evening along the **Yukon River**. Photo looks WNW.

Lemon pepper chicken! Now that was tasty, SPHP!

Guess I should have bought 2 of them in Fairbanks, Loop. We ate the whole thing!

Full of chicken, the lovely evening drive N continued.

8-18-22, 8:53 PM, MP98 – Must have rained hard here within the last hour. The last few miles of the Dalton Highway before SPHP made the turn into the Finger Mountain Wayside were a sloppy mess full of big mud puddles. Somewhere the sun was still up, but Lupe couldn’t see it due to all the dark clouds toward the N.

Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.), SPHP! We’ve got to climb it!

Absolutely, sweet puppy! Let’s go!

Finger Mountain’s summit was practically right there, only a short stroll N of the rest area. A nature trail wound up a small hill to the dramatic rock formation at the very top. The air was cool and moist, on the chilly side, actually, as SPHP took the long way around reading various plaques about the flora along the way.

Two ravens flew off as Lupe began the tiny scramble to the summit. SPHP had no intention of getting up there, but was more than willing to provide the American Dingo with the required, slightly nerve-wracking, final boost.

On **Finger Mountain** again for the first time in nearly 5 years. Photo looks NW.

Oh, my gosh, SPHP! Can’t believe I’m here on Finger Mountain again!

I know! Seems so strange, and yet so familiar, doesn’t it? You’ve almost done it, too. Only 17 miles to the Arctic Circle from here. The return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is nearly complete!

I’ve been neglecting my Arctic Sisterhood duties for a long time, SPHP, but it wasn’t my fault. All Covid-19’s fault!

Tell me about it, Loop! None of that matters now, though, we’re back! This is as far as we’re going tonight, though. Your all new adventures in the true Arctic start tomorrow, weather permitting, of course.

As the evening sky demonstrated, that last part was somewhat in doubt. After helping Lupe down off Finger Mountain’s summit, a stroll was taken across the Dalton Highway to another, smaller rock outcropping with a view of Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) off to the WNW.

Remember our long journey to Caribou Mountain, Loop? Nobody goes there.

How can I ever forget, SPHP? It was all grand, until the very end.

Oh, yeah! We got soaked, didn’t we?

I sure did, SPHP. At least you had your old blue Cookie Monster outfit!

8-19-22, early – SPHP opened an eye. Lupe was peering out the window of the RAV4 into a thick, gray fog.

You’re awake, SPHP? Good! Can you let me out for a few minutes?

Sure thing, Loop. Need to sniff the air?

The Carolina Dog needed to do more than that. Once out of the RAV4, Lupe puked along the perimeter of the wayside parking lot. Not a lot, just a little.

Queasy, aye, Looper? Too much lemon pepper chicken? Don’t worry about it. Unless this fog dissipates, we won’t be going anywhere for a while.

Returning to the RAV4, Lupe got back up onto her pink blanket. Clearly, a morning snooze was in order. By the time Loop woke up again, the fog had a blue tinge to it, and a bright spot revealed the position of the sun.

How ya feeling, Loopster?

Much better, SPHP, thank you!

Good! Looks like this fog is about to break up. Feel up to climbing Finger Mountain again?

It’s so easy, I might as well log another ascent while we’re still here, SPHP. After all, not very often that I get the chance. We ought to visit Finger Rock, too!

That’s the spirit! You must be feeling better, Loop. Glad to see it!

8-19-22, 8:24 AM – In weak sunshine, Lupe stood atop Finger Mountain once again. She stayed there only long enough for SPHP to get photos from a couple of different angles before helping her back down again.

Back atop **Finger Mountain**. Photo looks W.

The most dramatic angle. Photo looks SSW.

The greater **Finger Mountain summit region**. Photo looks NNE.

How was it up there, Loop? Still feeling good enough to visit Finger Rock?

I’m fine now, SPHP. Let’s do it!

Finger Rock, which Finger Mountain is named for, was 0.5 mile SSE of the true summit Lupe had already visited. Bushes along an intermittent use path leading to it were soaking wet, and noticeably taller than the only other time Lupe had visited Finger Rock years ago. By the time she got to it again, the Carolina Dog mighty soggy, too.

Plaque about Finger Mountain and Finger Rock.

Approaching **Finger Rock** (L). Photo looks SSE.

Since Finger Rock wasn’t the summit of anything other than itself, Lupe contented herself with a little light scrambling around on the big rocks near its base. Finger Rock looked quite different, tall and skinny, or kind of fat and stout, depending on the angle of view.

Content with her morning inspection of famous Finger Rock, Lupe headed back to the Finger Mountain Wayside.

8-19-22, 9:46 AM – From a boulder near the summit of Finger Mountain, Lupe scanned the Kanuti River basin. Still quite cloudy that way.

**Kanuti River Basin** (R) from **Finger Mountain**. Photo looks N.

Just think! We can see more than 2/3 of the remaining distance to the Arctic Circle from here, Loop. Is the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood ready to resume her adventures in the true Arctic?

I can hardly wait, SPHP! Been waiting for this day for a long, long time!

Me, too, Loopster! Me, too!

On **Finger Mountain**, Yukon-Koyukuk Ranges, Alaska 8-18-22.

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

AB Mountain – Lupe Joins the Arctic Sisterhood, Skagway, Alaska (8-7-17).

Slope Mountain and Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)