Days 16 & 17 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!
6-22-23, 4:32 PM, Carp Lake near the Grand Mesa Visitor Center –
This is a gorgeous area, SPHP! For a backup plan, Grand Mesa’s looking fabulous! We’ve seen so many beautiful lakes already, and we’ve only just arrived. What’s the name of this one?
Carp Lake. Cobbett Lake on some maps, Looper.
Well, Carp or Cobbett, it’s a beauty, SPHP! What did they say in the visitor center?
Unfortunately, they basically said we’ve come a long way for nothing, Loopster. Leon Peak (11,236 ft.) isn’t going to work.
What! Why not, SPHP?
USFS Road No. 121 is closed E of Baron Lake due to deep snow, Loop, as in gated shut. We can’t get anywhere near the trailhead.
So, what are we going to do, SPHP?
Don’t know yet, sweet puppy. The Crag Crest (11,189 ft.) trail might be an option, but even if we do that, we’d still want to come back to hit Leon someday. Intended to visit both of them while we’re here this time.
Can we get to a trailhead for Crag Crest? I wouldn’t mind doing that, SPHP.
Yup, there’s a trailhead less than 0.5 mile from here N of Island Lake. On the other paw, I suppose we might consider going back to Plan A.
Speaking of paws, what about your sore paws, though, SPHP? We’re here because Plan A would be too much for them so soon after San Luis Peak (14,014 ft.) yesterday, remember?
Yeah, I know it, Loop, but they’re already feeling better than expected.
Seriously? Good enough for nearly 5,000 feet of elevation gain tomorrow, SPHP?
Even SPHP wasn’t truly convinced, but Plan A won out. After another hours long, very scenic drive, Lupe was in Lake City by dusk. Finding a gravel road near the S end of town that went to Engineer Pass, SPHP took a chance on it. Passing through a narrow gap between towering cliffs where Henson Creek gushed in a raging torrent right next to the road, the road then wound through an old mining district.
Roughly 5 miles W of Lake City, there it was! The sign SPHP had been looking for.
Let’s get out and have a look, Loopster. We’re at Nellie Creek!
Walking up a short incline, vehicles were parked in various spots among the trees. In the growing gloom, lanterns were being lit. People could be heard talking quietly among themselves as they got ready to turn in for the night. Whatever they were saying was drowned out by roar of Nellie Creek, unseen in the dark forest toward the W.
Only one empty parking spot left, SPHP. We better grab it!
6-23-23, 6:31 AM, 45ºF – People were stirring. Lupe was, too. The great day had arrived!
Ready in just a few minutes, Loopster. Putting on these new socks. Extra cushiony. Might need it. Then we’ll be on our way.
Socks and boots on, SPHP drank a strawberry Equate, then hoisted the pack. That was it for breakfast. Lupe was too excited to eat anything. Nellie Creek was still roaring somewhere off to the W.
Alright. Uncompaghre Peak (14,309 ft.) or bust! Onward! Puppy, ho!
Heading N on USFS Road No. 877, the Carolina Dog began the 4 mile long trudge to the Nellie Creek trailhead more than 2,000 feet higher. Those lucky enough to have 4WD could simply drive to it, and start from there.
The road was relatively flat at first, but a relentless climb soon began. Not that steep, but steady, with only occasional flat spots. No downhill sections at all.
No one else was walking, and, surprisingly, only one vehicle passed Lupe as she trotted higher. After a little while it came back down, the driver pausing to say that he’d merely dropped people off at the Nellie Creek trailhead. Progress was good, and spirits running high. The American Dingo passed a number of dispersed parking spots among the trees, only half of which were occupied. After 0.75 mile, they became scarce.
For the most part, although narrow, No. 877 was actually a fairly decent road. SPHP was still glad, though, that the RAV4 was stashed back in the forest close to the main road to Lake City and Engineer Pass. No. 877 did have some pretty rough, rocky spots, and sometimes ran along the edge of sheer drops.
Meanwhile, a growing concern was gnawing at SPHP. Nellie Creek was often in view now. Although not a huge stream, it always appeared to be an impassable, boulder-infested torrent.
Who cares, SPHP? It’s beautiful.
Yeah, but we’ll be coming to a major test soon enough, Looper. Two of them, actually. We may never even get to the trailhead, much less climb Uncompaghre Peak.
Oh? And what might those tests consist of, SPHP? Do tell!
We’re going to have to ford Nellie Creek twice, Loop. Rob Woodall’s GPS track shows a rickety bridge and a slippery log.
Don’t like that sound of that, or Nellie Creek, SPHP. You mean we drove all over creation yesterday only to come here, when you knew the whole time that this might well be a total fail?
Uh-huh, but then you saw Uncompaghre from San Luis Peak, too, Loop, and the mountain looked beyond our capabilities from there. So you’ve known this might be a fail all along, too.
That’s different, SPHP! Despite what we saw from afar, you said there was a trail to the top!
And there is, sweet puppy! At least, that’s what everyone says, so there must be.
Well, there was no sense in backing out now without seeing what the first ford actually looked like, no matter how intimidating the constant, foaming roar emitted by Nellie Creek.
After gaining 900 feet of elevation over 1.5 miles, Lupe reached the first ford at around 10,200 feet.
Hmm. Didn’t look bad at all. No big rocks, and Nellie Creek was spread out, most of it quite shallow where the road crossed it. The deepest part where the current was most powerful appeared to be only a couple of feet deep. Not much of an issue for SPHP, but neck deep on Lupe.
Lovely! So where’s the rickety bridge or slippery log Mr. Woodall wants us to take, SPHP?
How am I supposed to know? Maybe they’ve washed out since Rob was here? Anyway, wait here, Loop, I’ll cross first to make sure it isn’t any worse than it looks.
Lupe watched as SPHP removed boots and socks, then waded bare-paw across the icy cold stream.
C’mon, you can do it, Loopster! Cross right where I did, the deepest part isn’t very wide there. You’ll be over in a flash.
Lupe hesitated. Several times the Carolina Dog started in, only to retreat from the frigid water. Nellie Creek looked too wide, and the roar coming from immediately both upstream and downstream was too frightening. A couple of times, Lupe threatened to plunge into the upstream torrent where the creek was narrower, but deep, swift, and full of rocks. SPHP screamed at her not to do that.
Stay there, Loopster! I’ll come and help you.
Fording the stream again, SPHP leashed Lupe up. Carrying her over would be impossible. SPHP needed to be able to use poles to maintain balance. The escort worked, though. Completely drenched, Lupe was soon across, shaking off and sending a spray of water at SPHP.
Don’t say a thing, SPHP! Your little cold shower is nothing compared to what I’ve just been through!
The road hike continued. A beautiful view of Peak 13160 was back to the S as sunlight began reaching the road.
The second ford appeared at 10,700 feet, less than 0.75 mile beyond the first one. This ford was no big deal, yet neither SPHP nor Lupe wanted to get wet again. Here, there actually was a slippery log just upstream. Hanging onto tree branches, SPHP managed to cross without incident. Lupe easily raced across the log without any such assistance.
Nellie Creek dealt with for the final time, it was now possible enjoy the rest of the increasingly scenic road hike to the trailhead. Before long, Peak 13106 came into view ahead.
6-23-23, 9:27 AM – After passing an outhouse, Lupe finally reached the Nellie Creek trailhead at the upper end of USFS Road No. 877. Rather surprisingly, only a single gray ATV was at the parking lot, and not a soul was around. However, quite a bit of information was posted at the start of Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239. SPHP paused to take a look.
Does it say anything interesting, SPHP?
About what I expected, Loop. At least it confirms that there’s a trail to the top.
Pressing on, Uncompaghre Peak Trail No. 239 continued up the valley. At first, Nellie Creek was out of sight off to the SW as Lupe trotted along a forested stretch. Upon reaching the edge of the forest 0.25 mile from the trailhead, SPHP dumped the pack and sat down. The Carolina Dog laid down, too.
How are your paws faring, SPHP?
Surprisingly well, Loop. Thanks for asking! Now if only my lungs, heart, and legs felt more ambitious, we’d be in business. Hungry yet?
Not really. I’m fine, SPHP.
Suit yourself. Think I’ll have a little something.
A fruit cup hit the spot, without causing much further delay. The trail went on, and so did the American Dingo. Nellie Creek was soon nearby again, still a fast-flowing, rough and tumble stream, but much smaller up here. As Lupe closed in on treeline near 11,700 feet, views were starting to open up. Porous boulders full of air pockets were along the trail as snowfields appeared on high ridges ahead.
Before long, an enormous crag was in sight off to the W.
Uncompaghre Peak (14,309 ft.), SPHP?
Must be, or at least part of it, Loopster. It’s in the right direction.
As the trail and Nellie Creek valley both turned toward the crag, some truly magnificent territory came into view.
Wow! This is going to be an awesome day, SPHP!
Gotta love this! Don’t ya, sweet puppy?
No. 239 soon crossed a small tributary of Nellie Creek at a flat mucky spot full of soft, gravelly sand. A little beyond this side creek, the trail switchbacked up a steep, 50 foot high bank to the N. Near the top, Lupe had to leave the trail to find a spot where she could scramble up onto a long snowbank clinging to the bank’s upper rim.
Reaching the top of the bank, a junction with Trail No. 232, which snaked N up the steep W flank of Peak 13106 on its way to Big Blue Creek, was nearby. Looked interesting, but to the W, Uncompahgre Peak beckoned beneath a deep blue sky beyond scattered dark conifers and brilliant white snowfields.
Dingo paradise is this way, SPHP!
So it is! Hang on for just a moment, though, Looper. This sign is loose.
SPHP managed to hand-tighten only one of the 2 nuts fastening the sign to the post. The other one wouldn’t budge on the bolt.
Eh, better than it, was. Onward! Puppy, ho!
W of the junction with Big Bear Creek Trail No. 232, Lupe and SPHP both enjoyed a relatively long, flat stretch along Uncompaghre Creek Trail No. 239. Beyond the last stands of conifers, an awesome region of tundra and snowfields was ahead. Lupe had a blast racing across the open ground as pikas and marmots whistled warnings on all sides.
Inevitably, the flat stretch gave way to a steady trudge higher. Lupe crossed one snowfield after another separated by tundra. No. 239 was often muddy where it wasn’t buried beneath the snow.
6-23-23, 12:01 PM, 50ºF – The topo map showed a spring N of the trail near 12,620 feet. At a flat region of relatively dry tundra somewhat above and SW of this spring, SPHP was ready for another break. Lupe was starving. After eagerly gobbling some Taste of the Wild, she laid down next to SPHP. A cool, 10-15 mph SW breeze swept the open plain.
Two people separated by a little distance were now in sight coming down the next snowfield, the only people Lupe had seen on paw all day. Loners, they soon walked by one at a time. Neither said a word.
Hmm. Well, let’s keep going, SPHP!
On the way up that next snowfield the trail turned S, and 3 more people appeared, also already on their way down. Young and laughing, they greeted Lupe warmly before moving on with a warning:
It’s really windy up on the ridge! No so bad at the summit, though!
Reaching the top of this snowfield, more were ahead. Peak 13158 was in sight as Lupe climbed toward the crest of Uncompahgre Peak’s SE ridge.
After ascending several more snowfields, Lupe reached another trail junction just as she gained the ridgeline. Matterhorn Creek Trail No. 233 veered off to the L here.
Those young people were right! A relentless 40 mph gale roared over the crest of the ridge from out of the WSW. Curving practically straight into the teeth of it, Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239 left the junction turning due W. Ahead, a long series of steps climbed toward a rounded hill hundreds of feet higher.
2 young men were coming down the steps. One recognized Lupe.
Hey! We know you! You were coming up when we were on our way down over at San Luis Peak 2 days ago, too!
Pausing to chat with SPHP, the men pointed NW toward the steep upper ridge forming the L shoulder of the crag, warning that the trail got kinda scrambly beyond it. Then off they went, too, continuing down the steps.
“Kinda scrambly”, what’s that supposed to mean, SPHP?
Don’t know, Loopster, but coming from a couple of young guys in great shape, I don’t much like the sound of it.
No. 239 curved NW before getting all the way to the top of the hill. A helpful development, because it put Lupe below the crest of the ridge again, partially protected from the full force of the gale. Still pretty windy, but this wasn’t a bad place to take another short break.
Almost immediately, Lupe spotted 2 women coming down. Their outfits flapping wildly in the breeze, they offered another bit of advice as they went right on by without stopping:
Be careful up there!
Sheesh! Are we late for some kind of convention on Uncompahgre Peak that just broke up a little bit ago, Loop? Saw no one at all for hours, but now there’s a steady stream of people coming down.
Never mind that, SPHP. What kind of a trail is this? “Kinda scrambly!” “Be careful!” And look at that crag we’re heading for!
I know it! Thought this was supposed to be Class 2, no big deal, Loopster. Starting to get paranoid, though. C’mon! Onward! Puppy, ho! Before we get any more good news.
SPHP was wrong about getting any more news, though. Lupe wouldn’t see anyone else the rest of the day.
Uncompahgre Peak Trail No. 239 climbed back up onto the ridge again. Passing NE of several high points, the wind sounded terrible as it shot through wide gaps between them where stunning views to the W were framed by gigantic cliffs.
Both Wetterhorn Peak (14,015 ft.) and Matterhorn Peak (13,590 ft.) were out there only 2 or 3 miles away, along with an enormous amount of snow for late June.
Approaching the steep slope below the upper ridge comprising the L shoulder of the crag, confidence returned. A few big switchbacks went right up it. Cake! The only question was what the American Dingo would see from the top.
The switchbacks were easy, but near the top, SPHP’s paranoia returned.
Careful, Loopster! Stay close. Might be cliffs! No telling what we’ll see.
As soon as Lupe regained the ridgeline, the full force of the gale out of the W struck her again. Ahead, Trail No. 239 extended a short distance beyond the ridge before curling out of sight to the R. Cautiously making this turn, what came into view next was entirely different from what the rest of the trail had been like.
An already spectacular, unobstructed panoramic view of a vast region of snowy peaks and highlands was off to the SW. However, that wasn’t of immediate importance. Ahead, the terrain consisted of a steep talus slope that dropped many hundreds of feet. Traversing the talus and a snowfield, the trail headed toward columns of bedrock jutting skyward near the top of the slope.
Must be some way up between these columns, SPHP. C’mon!
After passing a rock formation, the route up became apparent. Trail No. 239 turned N straight up a very steep slope of loose soil and rock.
We’ve reached the “kinda scrambly” part, SPHP!
Yeah. Looks doable, Loopster, but I hope it doesn’t go on like this much above what we can see from here.
Carolina Dogs are natural scramblers. Lupe was clearly enjoying herself as SPHP toiled carefully after her, sending rocks clattering down the slope with nearly every step.
The route was steep enough to merit caution, but wasn’t too bad. After a 70 foot climb, it angled toward the E. As the terrain began leveling out again, Lupe rediscovered a distinct trail, which curved N, then back to the NNW among rock formations.
Rounding this corner, it was clear that Uncompahgre’s summit couldn’t be much farther. After crossing a small snowfield, a final, modest talus ridge was in sight beyond a rock-strewn plain.
Heading straight for a last line of cliffs along the SW face of the summit region, Trail No. 239 swept around to the NE, bypassing them once Lupe got close. A relatively short rocky climb got the American Dingo to a summit plateau hundreds of feet wide that sloped up toward the NW.
6-23-23, 3:32 PM, Uncompahgre Peak (14,309 ft.) – The weary trudge higher was over! Along a ragged N edge, Lupe stood calmly at the brink of cataclysmic cliffs on a boulder that appeared to be Uncompaghre’s true summit. Beyond her, a couple more high points in contention for the honor were in sight, and several miles beyond them rose a line of dramatic, snow-bearing peaks.
Coxcomb Peak (13,656 ft.), Redcliff (13,642 ft.), Precipice Peak (13,144 ft.), Dunsinane Mountain (12,742 ft.)! None of them were as high as Uncompaghre. Even the soaring spire of Wetterhorn Peak (14,015 ft.) over toward the WSW was clearly lower, Matterhorn Peak (13,590 ft.) in the foreground diminutive by comparison.
Holy smokers, Loopster! We actually made it! Uncompaghre! Can you believe it?
Shoot, this wasn’t so bad, SPHP. One little scramble! Nothing to it, if we could have started at the Nellie Creek trailhead, and skipped 2,000 feet of extra elevation gain.
Yeah, well, partly due to that extra 2,000 feet, I’m absolutely beat! Let me shake your paw, and let’s find a spot to sit down where it isn’t so dang windy.
Really wasn’t anywhere out of the wind up here, but finding a patch of tundra where Lupe could lay down in relative comfort near a group of boulders SW of the true summit, an attempt to use them as windbreaks provided at least some relief. Happily, at only 15-20 mph out of the W, the wind wasn’t nearly as bad as here as it had been on the SE ridge.
Exhausted, neither Lupe nor SPHP stirred, merely sitting there snacking while enjoying the stupendous views. Far to the ESE, SPHP was able to pick out Stewart Peak (13,983 ft.), Organ Mountain (13,801 ft.), and San Luis Peak (14,014 ft.), where Lupe had been just 2 days ago. From the true summit, the American Dingo had already seen that the territory to the N was much lower, except for a snow-capped range on the distant horizon.
The best views were to the S or W looking into the heart of the San Juan Range where an incredible amount of snow was still present. Above all, that snowy wilderness of jagged peaks to the WSW beyond spectacular Wetterhorn Peak (14,015 ft.) was an absolute jaw-dropper.
Sort of reminds me of being on Peak 6053 looking into Alaska, SPHP!
Yeah. Hard to believe we’re in southern Colorado right after the summer solstice, Loop.
6-23-23, 4:34 PM, 54ºF – The beef jerky supply wiped out entirely by the ravenous American Dingo, energy was returning as Lupe’s traditional summit hour ended. No rush to leave yet, though, since other than the ever-present annoying wind, conditions remained near perfect. Besides, it was picture time!
For the next half an hour, Lupe and SPHP wandered back and forth over the summit region, staying mostly among the various high points strung out along the N edge, while admiring the splendid views in all directions.
3 high points of nearly equal elevation were along the N edge. The one farthest E was the true summit. The middle high point featured a small cross, which was its claim to fame. However, it was the high point clear out at the NW end that provided the most dramatic perch. Lupe visited it several times.
5:01 PM, Uncompahgre Peak, NW high point – Sadly, it was time. From this airy perch, SPHP started Lupe’s descent GPS track nearly 1.5 hours after she’d arrived at the true summit. Going right past the true summit for the final time, the Carolina Dog returned briefly to the highest rocks once again.
SPHP never found a registry or a survey benchmark, but on a collection of rocks only a bit E of the true summit, discovered a directional marker as Lupe departed.
A last look around, and it was Onward! Puppy, ho!
It was a long way back. Tragedy struck during the scramble’s descent when a rock fell, smashing SPHP’s R pinky toe. Fortunately, not broken, but painful nonetheless. Down on the SE ridge, the wind was as terrible as ever, but conditions improved steadily below it. On this gorgeous evening, Lupe had a grand time exploring the open country on the way back to Nellie Creek.
The “slippery log” worked a second time at the upper ford. Arriving at the lower ford at dusk, the American Dingo refused to plunge into the fearsome, frigid stream again in the growing gloom. Sitting on a bank beyond SPHP’s reach, she refused to come down.
In the end, there was no other way. Leashed up, once into the stream, Lupe practically drug SPHP across in her eagerness to reach the safety of the far bank.
6-23-23, 10:20 PM – SPHP’s long hobble on the sore toe ended as the Carolina Dog leapt into the RAV4 and up onto her pink blanket. What a day it had been! Uncompahgre Peak had been awesome, entirely worth it! For the 3rd time on this Dingo Vacation, Lupe had set a new personal record for the 3rd highest mountain she’d ever climbed, coming within 124 vertical feet of her all-time best at Mount Elbert nearly 8 years ago.
Trying to sleep despite the throbbing toe, SPHP couldn’t help wondering if Lupe would ever again be on such a lofty perch as glorious, fabulous Uncompahgre Peak (14,309 ft.)?
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