San Luis Peak, San Juan Mountains, Colorado (6-21-23)

Days 14 & 15 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!

6-20-23, mid-morning – Up bright and early,  Lupe had made it down out of the mountains and back to Monte Vista, the little San Luis valley town that had become somewhat of a favorite, in time for breakfast.  Now she stood peering into the murky green water of the canal near the high school and golf course.

Not taking the plunge this time around, Looper?

I’ve learned my lesson, SPHP.  You never did leap in to save me.

Would have, but you managed to rescue yourself.  Can’t say that I’m not glad you did.

Returning to shadier streets, the walk continued.  Lupe waited until she was back in the RAV4 to lap up water SPHP poured into her silver bowl, then snoozed or watched squirrels in the big cottonwoods.  Meanwhile, SPHP feasted on what remained of the orange juice and lemon Danishes left over from breakfast while working on the trip journal.

By noon, the American Dingo was on her way out of Monte Vista again, this time heading N on Hwy 285.  Turning W at Saguache, the afternoon drive on Hwy 114 up the unspoiled, arid Saguache Creek valley was very scenic.  Blue flowers bloomed in abundance in a valley so broad that Saguache Creek seemed seriously under-sized for it.

20 miles on Hwy 114 led to a L turn onto County Road NN14, a gravel road in superb condition that continued W, ultimately going over 10,032 foot Cochetopa Pass before descending again.  20 miles on NN14 brought Lupe to Upper Dome Lake, where 5 pelicans floated on the rippling blue water.  SPHP initially missed USFS Road No. 794, because it was signed as Saguache County Road 15GG at the turn.

No. 794 wasn’t bad as it wound SSW toward a collection of high peaks still sporting some snow, but wasn’t the gravel super highway County Road NN14 had been, either, especially after passing a road grader that was smoothing out some issues.  7 miles in, at a curve near Cold Spring, the most exciting thing ever happened.  Coming from the R, several sheep suddenly crossed the road right in front of the RAV4.

Lupe was beside herself with joy and enthusiasm!  Barking furiously, she leapt frantically up and down on her pink blanket, claws scraping the RAV4’s dashboard.  Exciting, no doubt, but Lupe had seen sheep before.  What was different this time was how close they were, and that they kept coming!  A continuous stream of sheep poured across the road, as the Carolina Dog became ever more hysterical.

Sheep! The most exciting thing ever!

Tens, scores, hundreds, maybe thousands of sheep crossed the road, many glancing nervously toward the maniac in the RAV4.  Still they came!  Pandemonium reigned.  After 15 minutes, when a couple of large sheepherding dogs appeared, and one trotted over and put his huge paws up on Lupe’s window, peering in to find out what all the fuss was about, the American Dingo completely lost her mind, transforming into a foaming-at-the-mouth savage, the definition of ferocity!

At the very end, a cowboy brought up the rear.  Obviously a good guy, since he was on a white horse, the cowboy rode calmly behind the last baaing sheep, as he and his dogs followed them into a valley.  Trembling, with sides heaving, Lupe gasped.

Tail end of the epic sheep drive.

SPHP, please!  Water!

And thus, the magnificent sheep drive of Saguache County Road 15GG passed into the annals of history.  As far as American Dingo legend has it, there was never anything like it, before or since.

Continuing on, the mountains were closer now.  SPHP suggested getting out for a look.

What mountains are these, SPHP?

Search me, Looper.  We’ll figure that out later.  They’re all part of the San Juan Mountains, though.

Well, do you at least know which ones we’re going to climb?

Sure do!  Only one – San Luis Peak (14,014 ft.).

Oh!  A 14’er!

Yup.  Only the 3rd one we’ll have ever climbed, Loopster.  Supposed to be relatively easy.  A long march, but with a trail all the way to the top.

Sounds awesome, SPHP!  Which one is San Luis Peak?

Oh, I don’t know.  Probably one of the ones in back, if we can see it at all from here.

Well, don’t worry!  Which ever one it is, we’re going to get there, SPHP!  Been ages since we’ve done a 14’er!

Hah!  Maybe.  A lot depends on whether we can even get to the trailhead, Looper.  I understand there are 2 creek fords along the way.  With all the snow in the San Juans this year, the streams might well be too dangerous for the RAV4 to cross.

Organ Mountain (L), San Luis Peak (R of Center), Baldy Alto (R), and Stewart Peak (far R) from USFS Road No. 794. Photo looks SW.

No. 794 wound around a lot.  The first crucial test came at Chavez Creek.  Cement slabs lining the creek bottom allayed most fears right away, but SPHP still got out to see how deep the water was.

Probably a good thing we weren’t here a week or two ago, but I think we’re golden now, Loopster!

Sure enough, the RAV4 didn’t have a bit of trouble.

At the Chavez Creek ford. Photo looks NW.

Happily, the situation was much the same at Nutras Creek, which was even shallower.

Nutras Creek. Photo looks SE.

No. 794 wound up over a big ridge then down the other side for another mile or two before SPHP passed the Stewart Creek Trail on the R.  Not much room to park there, but 0.5 mile farther there was plenty of space at the Eddiesville campground and trailhead.

6-20-23, 3:12 PM, Eddiesville – An outhouse, 2 vehicles, and a pickup truck with a horse trailer were at the end of USFS Road No. 794 when the Carolina Dog arrived, but for hours, no one else was around.  After a late lunch, she explored beyond the end of the road far enough to get a look at the Cochetopa River valley.  SPHP then spent the rest of the afternoon working on the trip journal while Lupe snoozed on her pink blanket.

Toward evening a few people arrived, set up tents, and cooked a meal – 3 CDT’ers with a dog named Mona, who had just climbed San Luis Peak, and a couple intent upon tagging their 33rd 14’er tomorrow.

Gosh, SPHP!  The Continental Divide Trail goes over San Luis Peak?  Maybe we’ll see Footsie or Svie tomorrow?

From what I can gather, San Luis Peak is an optional route along the CDT, Loop.  Don’t think Footsie or Svie can possibly be this far from Long Trek Mountain yet, but it sure would be fun to run into them again!

The horses and cowboys didn’t return until after dark.  Half an hour spent loading, and the red taillights of the horse trailer vanished into the night, leaving only stars twinkling silently in the heavens above.

6-21-23, 7:06 AM, 45ºF – The CDT’ers and hikers were just beginning to stir when Lupe left Eddiesville trotting W back up USFS Road No. 794.  Reaching the start of Stewart Creek Trail No. 470, SPHP was surprised to see several vehicles already parked along the side of the road.  After a quick glance at the posted information, it was Onward!  Puppy, ho!

About ready to leave Eddiesville. Photo looks ENE.
Start of Stewart Creek Trail No. 470. Photo looks SW.
Trail signage.
Posted map of the La Garita Wilderness.

Stewart Creek Trail No. 470 started out heading W through a meadow overlooking a broad thicket of willows down by Stewart Creek, which could not be seen among them.  Most of the pine forest on the steep slopes above the willows on the opposite side of the valley were dead, likely due to a pine bark beetle infestation years ago.

The trail was flat as it angled WSW up the Stewart Creek valley.  Progress was rapid for close to a mile.

Setting off up the Stewart Creek valley on Trail No. 470. Photo looks WSW.
In the meadow, near the edge of the willows. Photo looks SW.

Soon after reaching the forest, the trail started a gradual climb.  Short spurts higher were followed by long flat sections.  The valley narrowed, and glimpses of a series of beaver ponds along Stewart Creek began to appear.  Sadly, many of these gray green ponds looked abandoned – all silted in and very shallow.  Not a single beaver to be seen among them.

Without a cloud in the sky, Lupe appreciated the shade of the trees.  Meanwhile, progress remained excellent.

Beaver ponds along Stewart Creek. Photo looks SSE.
Enjoying the shade of the forest. Photo looks WSW.
Near a beaver dam. Photo looks WSW.

Stewart Creek Trail No. 470 remained N of Stewart Creek.  Once in a while, the trail ran right next to the stream, sometimes putting Lupe among the willows, which were sprouting new leaves.

A typical stretch of forest. Photo looks W.
By Stewart Creek. Photo looks WSW.
Among the willows. Photo looks WSW.
Flashy local beauty along the way.

The trail eventually climbed well above Stewart Creek and turned SW.  Deadfall began to appear.  Some of it was quite large, seriously slowing SPHP down.  Most of the time, though, it wasn’t too bad, and progress continued at a somewhat diminished pace.

After going through several miles of forest, Stewart Creek Trail No. 470 made a single big switchback on a steep slope.  Beyond this switchback, Lupe came to the last of the deadfall before breaking out into the open.

A flight of steps at a rare clearing in the forest. Photo looks WSW.
Dealing with deadfall. Photo looks WSW.

Reaching tree line at 12,000 feet, Lupe entered a region of willows 4-6 feet high.  Meadows provided the first unobstructed views of the big ridges and peaks ahead.  Looking across the valley, the dome shaped summit of Organ Mountain (13,801 ft.) soared above a bowl of snow that was the main source of Stewart Creek.

At tree line. San Luis Peak (R of Center) peeping above the ridge. Photo looks SW.
Organ Mountain (Center). Photo looks SE.

6-21-23, 10:21 AM, Stewart Creek Trail No. 470 at 12,340 feet – Nearing the upper end of the valley, a sunny meadow before a large region of stunted willows looked like a good spot to take a break.  Together, Lupe and SPHP watched 2 people climbing the big ridge on the opposite side of the valley.  Their progress was slow, coming in spurts.

At the break spot near the upper end of the valley. Photo looks SSW.

Is that where we’re going, SPHP?

Yes, indeedy, Loopster.  Before long, the trail’s going to cross tributaries of Stewart Creek, then snake up to the top of that enormous ridge.  Once we get up there, San Luis Peak will only be another mile.

Oh, so not so far then, but still a big climb?

You’ve got it, Looper.  We’ve already come a long way, but we’ve still got nearly 1,700 feet of elevation gain to go.

How far have we gone so far, SPHP?

Distance-wise, the Peakbagger app says 5.6 miles, but it exaggerates some, and that’s from Eddiesville.  Still, the sign at the start of the trail said it was only 5.5 miles to San Luis Peak.  Don’t think that can possibly be right, except maybe as the crow flies.  Got to be longer than that.  Elevation-wise, we’ve already gained 1,900 feet, so we’re only a little over halfway.

Continuing on, the trail descended into the willows, which were only a few feet tall here, and soon led to the main tributary of Stewart Creek, a shallow, clear-running stream emerging from beneath rapidly melting snowfields.  After an easy ford or rock hop, Stewart Creek Trail No. 470 then started up the giant ridge to the S, at times crossing the snowfields, much to the Carolina Dog’s delight.

Crossing the main tributary of Stewart Creek. Photo looks SW.
Enjoying a romp on the snow! Photo looks WSW.

800 feet from the stream to the top of the ridge, a big climb!  Switchbacks made it easier.  Even so, the American Dingo had plenty of time to enjoy the increasingly impressive views of the Stewart Creek valley while SPHP plodded along, or paused to gasp for air.  The trail was in excellent shape, so there really wasn’t anything hard about it, except the ongoing battle against gravity.

Steadily gaining on the ridge. Photo looks SW.
Gazing back down the Stewart Creek valley. Photo looks ENE.

Pikas or marmots whistled unseen, drawing Lupe’s attention.  Every now and then, the American Dingo dashed away to investigate, only to return a few minutes later wearing a big smile.

Some of the steepest spots featured stone or wood stairs.  Took SPHP a while, but bit by bit, Lupe was getting there.  A few early birds appeared, already on their way back down the mountain.  By then, the top of the ridge wasn’t much farther, and San Luis Peak (14,014 ft.) was already in sight beyond it.

Ascending stone steps. Photo looks WSW.
Approaching the top of the ridge. San Luis Peak (Center). Photo looks SW.

Upon gaining the top of the broad ridge, it sloped up toward the W.  Lupe climbed only a little higher before SPHP suggested another rest break.

Seated on scree and tundra, SPHP sat petting Lupe while doing deep breathing exercises. The air felt thin, heck it was thin, up at this already magnificent viewpoint.  Lupe watched as a few more people went by, all heading back down and offering words of encouragement.

Organ Mountain (R of Center) from the break spot on the ridge. Photo looks E.
The beautiful tundra.
Baldy Alto (Center) from the rest break ridge. Photo looks N.

Ten minutes ticked away.

You ready yet, SPHP?

Yeah, let’s do this!  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Starting the final ascent. San Luis Peak (L). Photo looks WSW.

Looked easy, felt harder than it should have been.  The trail turned to scree as Lupe headed for San Luis Peak’s N ridge.  Every step higher was a victory, and the mood became a mix of weariness and joy.  Conditions were perfect, the trail in great shape and easy to follow as it curved S.  Ultimate triumph was never in doubt.

Up in the scree. San Luis Peak (L). Photo looks SSW.
The joyous climb! Lupe on her way to only her 3rd 14’er ever, and first one in nearly 8 years. Photo looks SSW.

The trail eventually gained San Luis Peak’s N ridge.  Thrilled to see a snowbank here, Lupe immediately plunked herself right down on it.  Many snowy peaks were now in sight way off to the W.  One of them, a mighty spire higher than the others caught SPHP’s attention.  Using the telephoto lens on it, the view was disconcerting.

Cooling off on San Luis Peak’s N ridge. Photo looks W.

Ay, caramba, Loopster!  Could that be Uncompahgre Peak (14,309 ft.)?

What if it is, SPHP?

I’ll tell you what, Looper.  Uncompahgre is on your list of possibilities.  In fact, it’s your next adventure 2 days from now, if all goes as planned, but yikes!  I thought there was supposed to be a trail to the top, but it sure doesn’t look like anything we can climb.

Well then, maybe you’re looking at the wrong mountain, SPHP?

Maybe so, Loop.  They’re all a long way off.  Anyway, has your stomach frozen yet?  Let’s get to San Luis Peak.

150 feet below the summit, a young couple that had just started down a few minutes ago appeared.  Complimenting Lupe, they paused for a brief chat with SPHP.  When the young man said he’d climbed all 58 Colorado 14’ers, SPHP had one question for him.

Yes, that’s Uncompahgre Peak!  Wetterhorn Peak (14,015 ft.) is to the L, with Matterhorn Peak (13,590 ft.) between them.

Wetterhorn Peak (L), Matterhorn Peak (Center), Uncompaghre Peak (R). Photo looks WNW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Sheesh!  Really?  Well, whatever.  At least Lupe was going to get to San Luis Peak!  Continuing S, she followed the winding trail up the final scree slopes leading to the summit.

Approaching the summit. Photo looks S.

6-21-23, 1:42 PM, 65ºF, San Luis Peak (14,014 ft.) – On this superb day, everyone else had already come and gone.  Lupe arrived at the summit, finding her first 14’er since Mount Massive nearly 8 years ago deserted.  Nothing wrong with that!

San Luis Peak’s summit region was roughly 60 feet long E/W and 20 feet wide.  Not huge, but plenty of room to move around.  A semi-circular rock wall 2.5 feet tall near the E end served as a wind break, although there was scarcely any breeze at all today.  Toward the W end, a survey benchmark was attached to a single foot-high loose rock.

Lupe was glad to see a rapidly melting snowbank still clinging to the S rim, happily helping herself to bites of it whenever she felt dry.

Newly arrived on San Luis Peak! Organ Mountain (L). Photo looks E.

Wow, what a glorious, memorable day, Loopster!  Mind getting up on that survey benchmark rock for a picture?

How’s this, SPHP?

Fabulous, Loop!  You look terrific!  Smile big now for your 3rd 14’er ever!

Happy Lupe atop San Luis Peak. Photo looks SW.
San Luis Peak survey benchmark.

Satisfied that the photo had turned out well, SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, congratulating her on grand San Luis Peak success.

There was a lot to see!  From the SSE clear around to the WNW, a giant region of snow-capped peaks of the mighty San Juan Range was in view.  SPHP was surprised to see that Bennett Peak, Long Trek Mountain, and Conejos Peak still seemed to be recognizable, despite being very far SE.  Phoenix Peak (13,895 ft.) was much closer.

Phoenix Peak (L of Center). Photo looks SE.

To the S, Peak 13,285 at the head of the Spring Creek drainage wasn’t as high Phoenix Peak, but had more snow.  The next line of snowy peaks beyond it was on the far horizon.  Looking SW, the scene was similar.

Peak 13285 (L of Center). Photo looks SSW.
Looking WSW.

Uncompahgre Peak’s fearsome presence far to the WNW was near the limit of how far N the snow went.  Another line of snow-bearing peaks was farther N, but so distant that it was at the edge of vision.

Three peaks directly N were much closer, and more interesting because they could be seen in great detail, these were Column Ridge (13,795 ft.), Stewart Peak (13,983 ft.), and Baldy Alto (13,698 ft.).

San Luis Peak summit region. Uncompahgre Peak (L of Center) on the horizon. Photo looks WNW.
Column Ridge (L), Stewart Peak (Center), Baldy Alto (R). Photo looks N.

Completing the scenic tour was a view from on high of the Stewart Creek valley to the NE, and Organ Mountain (13,801 ft.) almost directly E.

Stewart Creek valley (L), Organ Mountain (R). Photo looks ENE.

Hmm.  Surprising!  Sorry, but there doesn’t seem to be a registry in which to record your glorious ascent, Loopster.

Don’t worry about it, SPHP.  I’m famished!  Anything left to eat?

For you?  Beef jerky, Taste of the Wild, and water, if you want it.

The Carolina Dog did want it, all of it.  SPHP helped her out with the jerky, then polished off a fruit cup, and the last of the trail mix as well.

Must have been the elevation, in addition to the long march in, which SPHP estimated at a little over 7 miles.  For whatever reason, alone atop San Luis Peak, surrounded by magnificence in all directions, a profound weariness set in after eating.  A nap sounded awesome!  SPHP laid on the dirt, legs bent so Lupe could hide partly beneath them from the sun.  With head resting against the pack, SPHP tried to doze.

For more than an hour, the American Dingo scarcely moved.  Once in a while, a faint SW breeze stirred.  If there’d been a thermostat to set it, the temperature couldn’t have been any more perfect.  Lying there with eyes shut, SPHP may have fallen asleep.  Lupe most certainly did.

Mid-afternoon on a Colorado 14’er on the longest day of the year, yet no one came.  All the action had apparently already taken place earlier.  Lupe’s entire traditional summit hour ticked away.  So what?  No rush.  She stayed for another one, and then some.

Relaxing on San Luis Peak. Photo looks WSW.

The long rest definitely made a difference.  Reviving, Lupe and SPHP roamed back and forth, taking pictures while admiring the splendor in all directions.

Loop on the snow over by the survey benchmark rock. Uncompahgre Peak (R) on the horizon. Photo looks W.

6-21-23, 4:07 PM, San Luis Peak – Sad, but true!  For the last time Lupe stood with her paws on the survey benchmark rock, countless snowy mountains beyond her, Uncompahgre Peak looming in the distance.  SPHP shook the Carolina Dog’s paw once more.  4 minutes later she was poised along the summit’s N edge ready to start back to Eddiesville.

About to head down. Column Ridge (L), Stewart Peak (Center), Baldy Alto (R). Photo looks N.

The return on Stewart Creek Trail No. 470 was both scenic and fun, and went much faster than Lupe’s ascent.  Not a soul was on the trail, but 2 were off it.

Turned out the beaver ponds weren’t entirely abandoned, after all.
The presence of 2 beavers meant hope for the future.

6-21-23, 7:20 PM – As Lupe hopped up onto her pink blanket in the RAV4, Eddiesville seemed lonely and quiet compared to yesterday when the CDT’ers were here.  San Luis Peak had been a marvelous, memorable, but long day.  Hobbling around, heating up a can of chili for dinner, SPHP’s paws were sore and raw.

Uncompahgre Peak – 5,000 feet of elevation gain 2 days from now?  Heh!

Loopster, sweet puppy, we’re going to need a new plan!

On San Luis Peak, San Juan Mountains, Colorado 6-21-23
Lupe’s GPS Track

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