Five Finger Rapids – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Smoked Out & A Change of Plans – Whitehorse, Yukon Territory to Chicken, Alaska (8-1-23 & 8-2-23)

Day 10 & Part One of Day 11 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-1-23, Whitehorse, Yukon Territory –

Are you ready yet, SPHP? It’s already noon! I thought you bought all the supplies we needed yesterday?

Sorry, Loopster. I thought so, too, but I keep thinking of additional things that would be nice to have, and it will be a long time before we get another chance to acquire them once we leave town. Anyway, that’s about it. Just need to check on the weather and Dempster Highway road conditions, and we’ll be on our way.

Ugh! Why, SPHP? They told you at the visitor center only yesterday that the Dempster Highway reopened 2 days ago. Do we really have to go back there again?

A mighty long stretch of the Dempster had been closed due to wildfires, Loop – all the way from the Ogilvie River way past Eagle Plains. They warned me that part of it might get closed down again. However, we don’t have to go back to the visitor center. They said I can check for updates on 511yukon.ca. Might as well do it while we’ve still got cell service. No sense in driving clear up there if fires closed the highway again.

Seems incredible to think that wildfires could be that bad so far N, SPHP.

Yeah, absolutely nuts, isn’t it, Loop? Hardly believe it myself. Hmm. Let’s see here. Good news! The Dempster Highway is still open. 80% chance of rain today and the next several days in Faro, so there goes that potential side trip on the way there. Too bad! Guess we might as well head straight N to the Dempster.

And then on to Tuktoyaktuk, Land of the Pingos, SPHP!

8-1-23, 12:39 PM, N. Klondike Hwy No. 2, Fox Lake – Yesterday afternoon a rain shower had cleared the air in Whitehorse, but as Lupe peered into Fox Lake from the dock by the campground boat ramp, a familiar white haziness was in the air, especially toward the horizon. Not a good sign.

Sign at the entrance to the Fox Lake campground.

Out on the **Fox Lake campground dock**. Photo looks SW.

**Fox Lake** from the dock. Photo looks NW.

Peering into the cold, green, watery world of **Fox Lake**.

8-1-23, 2:57 PM, 80ºF – The smoke really wasn’t all that bad at Fox Lake, but by the time Lupe got to Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon River, it was considerably worse. Although the Carolina Dog was already well N of Carmacks and the turn E toward Faro where there was supposedly an 80% chance of rain today, the afternoon was sunny, warm, and dry. In fact, it was just plain hot in a fur coat.

The Five Finger Rapids sign looked older than it used to be. Weeds grew among the thirsty flowers in the planter beneath it. The view deck and wooden stairway down to the trail to the rapids were more weathered than SPHP remembered, too.

At the **Five Finger Rapids Recreation Site** N of Carmacks.

**Five Finger Rapids** from the upper view deck near the N Klondike Hwy. Photo looks SW.

One of the informational displays at the upper view deck.

Despite the heat and smoke-marred views, Lupe made her traditional 0.76 km trek down to the observation deck near the rapids. At least the islands among the once dangerous rapids could be clearly seen from here.

On the partially shaded trail to the lower observation deck.

**Yukon River** from the lower deck. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe panted hard in the heat on the way back up the 219 step staircase leading to the parking area. Continuing the drive N along N Klondike Highway No. 2, SPHP ran the RAV4’s AC. Meanwhile the temperature outside continued to inch higher.

8-1-23, 5:02 PM, 82ºF – After fueling up the RAV4 at Pelly Crossing and driving across the bridge, SPHP parked at the turnout overlooking the Pelly River.

**Pelly River** at **Pelly Crossing**. Photo looks SW.

Brief **history of the Pelly Crossing region**.

The smoke doesn’t seem to be getting any better, SPHP.

I know it, Loopster. Keep thinking we ought to drive out of it, but it’s been smoky for more than a thousand miles since we first noticed a haze in the air after leaving Smithers way back in British Columbia. Not sure what to do about it, except keep driving. Sooner or later, there’s got to be an end.

What happens if there isn’t, SPHP? What if the smoke extends all the way to Tuktoyaktuk?

Clear to the Arctic Ocean, Loopster? That can’t be! Simply not possible! We’ll drive out of it somewhere along the way. You’ll see.

I’m starting to wonder, SPHP. The wildfires must have been bad if they closed the Dempster Highway at Eagle Plains, and that’s still a long way N.

The Dempster is open now, Loop. Maybe they got some rain in the past few days? Eagle Plains has been a monsoon every time we’ve ever been there. Remember fleeing the freezing rain that turned to snow back in 2019? We were lucky we didn’t get stuck, and that the Ogilvie River didn’t sweep us away that night. It was practically over the highway the next morning where we parked.

True enough, SPHP, but that was then, and this is now. And like you say, we’ve been through 1,000 miles of smoke already.

8-1-23, 6:01 PM – An hour later, SPHP stopped again at Stewart Crossing to have a look at the displays and let Lupe stretch her legs.

The **Silver Trail** starts at **Stewart Crossing**.

**Mayo Road history**. The Mayo Road is the Silver Trail.

The Silver Trail! Remember Mount Haldane and Mount Hinton, SPHP? They were fabulous!

Don’t forget Keno Hill way up in the fog and mist and that crazy mileage signpost where we parked, Loop.

We could sure use some of that fog and mist today, SPHP!

True enough, and from the Stewart Crossing bridge there did seem to be at least a glimmer of hope. Looking upstream, the way the Mayo Road went, the smoke wasn’t quite as thick as it had been. Unfortunately, in the downstream direction, the way N Klondike Highway No. 2 went, the smoke was as thick as before.

At the **Stewart Crossing bridge**. Photo looks S.

**Stewart River** upstream view. Photo looks SE.

**Stewart River** looking downstream from **Stewart Crossing**. Photo looks W.

NW of Stewart Crossing large regions of burnt boreal forest appeared. However, none of it was on fire now. Judging from the green grass and bushes already reemerging on the forest floor, it seemed these areas had burned during some recent prior year.

Beyond the burnt regions, N Klondike Hwy No. 2 deteriorated. The RAV4 raised great clouds of dust on long stretches where the pavement had been stripped away. A great swath of trees had been bulldozed, making the road enormously wide.

**N Klondike Highway No. 2** NW of Stewart Crossing. Photo looks NW.

The farther SPHP drove, the worse shape these construction zones were in. Bumping along, weaving among ruts and soft spots, the speed limit dropped to 30 km per hour. Despite what ought to have been excellent weather for road construction, there was no sign of activity. Eventually, enormous pieces of machinery were seen strewn motionless along the edge of the highway, like rusting dinosaurs whose epoch had come to a sudden, unexpected end.

Feels like we’re driving into the apocalypse, SPHP, like it’s the end of the world and time itself!

It was hard to disagree. Finally reaching the turnout that doubled as a Tintina Trench viewpoint, the displays that used to be here were gone. Only a limited smoke-marred view of the trench remained beyond the bushes growing up to hide it.

A hazy view of the **Tintina Trench**. Photo looks NNW.

8-1-23, 8:40 PM – It wasn’t much farther to the Dempster Highway. 20 more km, and the American Dingo was there. All was quiet as the sun sank into murky clouds in a pale orange sky. SPHP was surprised to see a new unattended gas station. The old one, which had finally upgraded its ancient pumps, now advertised itself as “discount gas” for the bargain price of $1.899 per liter.

At the **S end of Dempster Highway No. 5**. Photo looks W.

SPHP filled the RAV4’s tank.

On to Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP?

Heh, I don’t know, Loop. Let’s hang out here near the Dempster Highway display for a little while. Maybe someone will come along who can give us a report on what it’s actually like farther N?

Lupe didn’t have long to wait. 10 minutes, and 3 motorcyclists came roaring across the bridge over the N. Klondike River. Sure enough, they pulled right up onto the display’s gravel pad and stopped.

Stay in the RAV4, Loop. I’ll find out what they have to say.

SPHP met 2 middle-aged men and a younger one, who was the son of one of the older men. Their uniforms were coated with dust, and the dad had some trouble, moving gingerly. After SPHP volunteered to take group photos next to the display for each of them on their phones, they were willing to chat for a few minutes about their Dempster Highway experience before roaring away.

So what did the motorcyclists say, SPHP? How far N did they go? Is the road still open all the way to Tuktoyaktuk? Where does the smoke end?

It was an incredible tale, Loopster. Yes, the road is open. These guys went all the way to Tuktoyaktuk, but it was smoky the entire way, even at the Arctic Ocean! They didn’t get to see much of anything except smoke. Eagle Plains was awful. Even worse, both older men crashed their bikes, one at a spot where the highway suddenly turned from gravel to river rocks. He suffered a concussion and has several cracked ribs. The young guy’s dad said he was glad that he’s done the Dempster Highway once now, but that he’s never, ever coming back.

Oh, my gosh! That’s terrible, SPHP, but river rock won’t crash the RAV4. Are we still going N?

Sheesh, I don’t know, Looper. Let me ponder it. How can the dang smoke extend clear to the Arctic Ocean? Yet it does. Kind of pointless, if we can’t see anything. I told those guys that we wanted to climb some mountains. They all said we could get to Tuktoyaktuk if we wanted to, but thought that climbing mountains in the smoke was nuts – a really bad idea.

Well, while you ponder, can we at least get out of the RAV4 for a while, SPHP?

Sure, let’s take a stroll over to the bridge.

The walk to the Dempster Highway bridge over the N. Klondike River was a short one. Soon Lupe was standing at the start of the bridge with the road that was to have provided access to many adventures during this Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation beckoning beyond her.

The road to adventure! At the **Dempster Highway bridge over the N. Klondike River**. Photo looks E.

Alright. I’ve decided. We can’t give up so easily, can we, Loop? We’ve come such a long way already to get here.

Does that mean we’re going on to Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP?

We’ll see. Let’s just take it one day at a time. Sooner or later the smoke’s got to clear. It’s not far to Tombstone Territorial Park. Maybe we can do something there tomorrow?

That sounds terrific, SPHP! I love Tombstone Park.

Returning to the RAV4, the Carolina Dog’s long anticipated journey N on the Dempster Highway began. Driving over the bridge and 4 miles past it, SPHP then parked at a wide spot near a side road. After hitting 82ºF and staying there for hours during the afternoon, the evening had now cooled off into the upper 60’s.

What’s wrong, SPHP?

Cheese and crackers, Loopster?

Sure, SPHP, but why did we stop? Are we spending the night here?

SPHP kept feeding Lupe cheese and crackers and munching away on them, too, for a while before answering.

Nope. Not spending the night here. This isn’t going to work. I already caught a glimpse of the Ogilvie Mountains ahead. Barely. The smoke is terrible, Loop. There’s a huge plume drifting into them from somewhere off to the SE. Must be big fires nearby.

So, what are we going to do, SPHP?

Alaska, Loopster! Maybe skies are blue there?

And this is it for all of the Dempster Highway adventures we had planned?

Not necessarily, Loop. Perhaps we can come back later on.

8-1-23, 11:11 PM – Fortunately, Carolina Dog are flexible planners. Lupe was unfazed. The evening air was pleasantly cool as she stood atop the ancient, decaying, over-sized bench atop Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.). Unsurprisingly, air quality still hadn’t improved in the least. The views of Dawson City and the mighty Yukon River were all marred by smoke.

On the **ancient wood bench** atop **Midnight Dome**. Photo looks S.

The **Yukon River** from behind the bench. Photo looks NW.

**Dawson City** from **Midnight Dome**. Photo looks SE.

8-2-23, 6:19 AM – Of course, the Dempster Highway wasn’t all that far back, and there had always been a chance that the sky would clear by morning. No such luck! Returning to Midnight Dome’s summit, Lupe had a final look around before SPHP drove back down the mountain.

Morning at the ancient **Midnight Dome bench**. Photo looks SW.

During a brief tour of Dawson City, Lupe visited the S. S. Keno, had a look at some of the shops, and hung out with a wooly mammoth, before SPHP decided it was time to get in line for the George Black ferry across the Yukon River to the Top of the World Highway.

The historic **S. S. Keno**, which once plied the **Yukon River**.

About **wooly mammoths** in the **Yukon**.

Crossing the **Yukon River** aboard the George Black ferry.

8-2-23, 12:40 PM – Crossing the Yukon River aboard the ferry took less than 10 minutes. After climbing out of the river valley, a long, ordinarily scenic drive winding W atop enormous, gently rounded ridges ensued, passing Cassiar Dome, Swede Dome, and many others along the way.

The smoky haze made the drive less thrilling today, but as SPHP parked the RAV4 on a ridge near the W end of the Canadian part of the Top of the World Highway, there seemed to be hope of improvement. Off to the NW, the sky looked bluer.

C’mon, Loopster! Let’s go for a romp. Davis Dome (4124 ft.) is in sight past US/Canadian customs. We’re almost to Alaska!

**Davis Dome** (L), **US/Canadian customs** (R) in the distance. Photo looks WNW.

A huge cairn Lupe had been to years ago still sat atop a hill just N of the highway. The American Dingo revisited it for a last look back into the Yukon before continuing on into Alaska.

Looking ENE back into the **Yukon** from the huge cairn.

As usual, Lupe breezed through US customs, entering Alaska without a hitch. The winding drive now continued SW on a beautiful new paved stretch of highway past Davis Dome all the way to Jack Wade Junction where the pavement ended and Taylor Highway No. 5 turned N on its way to Eagle on the Yukon River.

The Carolina Dog had never been any farther than Steele Creek Dome in that direction, and wasn’t bound that way today, either. Instead, SPHP continued driving SW on the Taylor Highway, which went down the Jack Wade Creek valley, crossed the South Fork of the Fortymile River, and wound around Lost Chicken Hill (2,150 ft.) shortly before reaching the historic gold mining community of Chicken, Alaska.

8-2-23, 1:33 PM ADT, 75ºF, Chicken, Alaska – After SPHP filled the RAV4’s tank at the Gold Panner, Lupe visited the big chickens out front.

Still some smoke around, SPHP, but it doesn’t seem too bad – certainly an improvement over conditions back at the start of the Dempster Highway. Maybe coming to Alaska was the right thing to do after all?

I sure hope so, Loop. I’m ready to do something other than drive forever. No more than an hour to Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) from here. Want to climb it again this afternoon? Been 4 years since we’ve been there.

Mount Fairplay? That would be awesome, SPHP! Onward, RAV4 ho!

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Dempster Highway Travelogue

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

On the Silver Trail to the Minto Bridge, Signpost Road & Keno Hill, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-12-19 & 8-13-19)

Days 8 & 9 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-12-19, Takhini Hot Pools NW of Whitehorse – Oh, the deliciously warm, wet luxury of it all! For a whole hour SPHP soaked in the heat of the Takhini Hot Pools. So nice to be warm and clean again! Abandoned in the G6, Loopster was missing out. The American Dingo wouldn’t have liked it anyway. She was no fan of hot or deep water.

Another hour would have been nice, but Lupe couldn’t be left for too long. Feeling great, SPHP returned to an enthusiastic greeting at the G6. A trip back into Whitehorse for supplies, and the Carolina Dog was on her way again.

A beautiful cruise N on the N Klondike Hwy was in store this afternoon. No complaints from any feisty, bored Dingoes! Yesterday’s big Mount Lorne adventure ensured that. If anything, Looper was looking even more relaxed than SPHP.

By mid-afternoon, Lupe was N of Carmacks. Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon River was coming up. A year ago, Lupe had met Fred and Teresa Reitsma there. They had just sold the Sausage Factory in Smithers, British Columbia to a long time employee, and had been on their first big adventure in their newly acquired 5th wheel camper.

Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon River is N of Carmacks along N Klondike Hwy No. 2.

Fred and Teresa weren’t around today, but Lupe still had a great time squirrel watching along the 2 km trail down to the rapids. At the end of the trail, Lupe paused for a look at the mighty Yukon River.

Overlooking the upstream end of **Five Finger Rapids** on the **Yukon River**.

In the gold rush days, Five Finger Rapids had been a navigation hazard for steamboats bound for Whitehorse. Underwater rock formations between a cluster of midstream islands created the rapids. The turbulent flow had long ago been tamed by dynamiting these obstructions to open up navigable channels.

Although the rapids no longer existed, it was still fun to see the famous Yukon River at this historic point.

A cluster of rocky islands divide the **Yukon River** into separate channels.

Five Finger Rapids was a nice break, but the road trip resumed. At Stewart Crossing, SPHP left the N Klondike Hwy turning R (E) onto the Silver Trail (Hwy No. 11). The Silver Trail started out following the Stewart River valley upstream, but the big river was almost never in sight.

Lupe had traveled this part of the Silver Trail in 2018. The highway eventually left the Stewart River near the town of Mayo. Last year, SPHP had not bothered to take the short side road into Mayo, but perhaps it was worth checking out?

Mayo didn’t amount to much. The sleepy community showed little sign of life. The highlight was a grassy park with a gazebo overlooking the Stewart River. A plaque told a little about the history of the area. Once SPHP was done looking at it, Lupe went down a 30 foot embankment to get a drink out of the Stewart River. The river was wide, but as nearly dead calm as the rest of Mayo.

Plaque in the park overlooking the Stewart River in Mayo.

By the **Stewart River**. Photo looks downstream.

Ho-hum. Neither Mayo, nor the Stewart River were too inspiring, but at least Loop had gotten a chance to see them. Returning to the Silver Trail, the next stop was at a rest area just before reaching the Minto Bridge on the Mayo River.

By now it was evening. The whole day was almost shot. A pleasant stroll down to the Mayo River for a look at the Minto Bridge revealed a couple of interesting things. Mount Haldane (6,032 ft.) was visible beyond the bridge! Lupe had climbed Mount Haldane last year, an adventure that had turned out really well.

The **Minto Bridge** on the **Mayo River**. **Mount Haldane** is visible beyond the bridge. Photo looks N.

The second item of interest was the discovery of a Minto Bridge trail. According to a plaque, this trail made a 1 km loop, half of it following the Mayo River, the rest in the boreal forest. Nothing too spectacular, but Lupe still had time enough to do that yet this evening! By now the Carolina Dog was rested up and ready for action. Why not?

Plaque at the start of the Minto Bridge trail.

The trail looked new and seldom used. Lupe started out on the part of the loop that followed the Mayo River. Although the river was close by, the forest was dense enough so Lupe only got glimpses of it. The good news was that a squirrel or two were living in the boreal forest.

The only clear view of the Mayo River came at the far end of the loop. By then the river was beginning to widen out as part of the Wareham Lake reservoir. Ducks and swans were visible far from shore.

Near the end of the loop. This was the only clear view of the **Mayo River**.

One of the swans and some of the ducks with help from the telephoto lens.

The Minto Bridge trail was a hit! Like the rest of the trail, the part of the loop that went through the boreal forest on the way back to the rest area was nice and easy. Lupe enjoyed the whole romp, and SPHP thought a plaque about frozen wood frogs was quite interesting.

Frozen wood frogs? Frogs and the Yukon didn’t seem to be a match, but apparently they are.

The **Minto Bridge trail** is a hit! Dingo approved!

Only a little farther to go today. Crossing the Minto Bridge, a big flock of Canadian geese provided an excuse for another quick stop.

Looking up the **Mayo River** right after crossing the Minto Bridge. Photo looks NE.

Canadian geese in the **Mayo River** wetlands.

The evening ended at the Mount Haldane trailhead. One more romp for Lupe before calling it a day! For 15 minutes, the American Dingo got to explore a triangle created by nearby roads. So fun to be back with big plans for adventure tomorrow!

**Mount Haldane** from a field near the Silver Trail. Photo looks N.

8-13-19, morning at the Mount Haldane trailhead 2 miles N of the Silver Trail – Mount Haldane (6,032 ft.) was in sight despite a dreary sky. Even so, this didn’t seem like a day for big plans. Hours of steady light rain. Might as well catch up the trip journal. Lupe tore happily through the forest during several jaunts around the road triangle, but that was all the action the morning brought.

Morning at the **Mount Haldane** (R) **trailhead**. Photo looks NNW.

By noon the rain was over. Trip journal caught up. No sense just sitting here. Maybe there was still time to do something today over by Keno? Returning to the Silver Trail, Lupe stopped by E Halfway Lake near the Silver Trail Inn. A plaque told about the edge of Beringia, the boundary between ancient glaciers and Beringia, a vast region that had remained unglaciated even during the ice ages.

By **E Halfway Lake**, km 76 along the Silver Trail. Photo looks S.

During the ice ages, the E edge of Beringia was right around this part of the Yukon.

Keno City, an old mining town, is located at the end of the 111 km long Silver Trail. Lupe made a few sightseeing stops along the way, but was soon approaching Sourdough Hill (4,739 ft.), a huge ridge overlooking the town.

Been a while since these mining carts were last in service.

**Mount Haldane** from the Silver Trail. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Approaching Keno City. **Sourdough Hill** dead ahead!

Keno City wasn’t very big, but it was far from being a ghost town. The Keno City Mining Museum looked quite nice and was open. So were a restaurant, a hotel, a motel, and a campground by Lightning Creek. A shack served as a tourist information center where brochures on area highlights were available.

The “Signpost” was an attraction of interest to a peakbagging Dingo. An 11 km dirt road went up to the Signpost on Keno Hill. Inquiring at the museum, SPHP was told that the road was rough in spots, but that the G6 had no doubt been through worse. That sounded like an adventure! A regional topo map was on display at the visitor center. SPHP took a photo of the Keno Hill section, and Lupe was on her way!

Keno Hill is a huge ridge with multiple summits with various names. The true summit was apparently known as Monument Hill. The Signpost is located NE of Keno Summit.

The 11 km road to the Signpost starts a block away from the Keno City Mining Museum.

8-13-19, 3:00 PM, the Signpost turnaround loop near Keno Summit – The drive up Signpost road had been interesting to say the least. The road started out fairly steep, but in decent shape. After gaining a tremendous amount of elevation, it wasn’t as steep, but became rougher as it began switchbacking higher. As the G6 crept along, Lupe stared out at increasingly impressive views of local desolation and distant silvery mountains.

Gradually swinging around the W end of higher ground to the NE, Signpost road crossed a huge plateau of tundra, ultimately curving NE to end at a turnaround loop on flat terrain. A rocky ridge superimposed on the flatter ground was off to the SW. Near the start of the loop there was a kiosk with a poster about the history of the Signpost. Beyond a stone monument, the Signpost itself stood off to the N near the edge of the mountain.

Lupe left the G6 for a look around. Barely 50ºF with a chilly 15 mph SW breeze. The amorphous gray sky seemed practically within grasp. Loop sniffed about while SPHP took a quick look at the poster.

“The original Signpost was erected by United Keno Hill Mines in 1956 when the company hosted a group of visiting scientists during the International Geophysical Year. The signs point to the cities represented by the delegates. It was replaced in 1989 with the current steel signpost.”

And with that, moments after arriving, fog swept over Keno Hill. Lupe and SPHP retreated into the G6.

Summer sausage and crackers! The American Dingo munched happily away, ignoring the fog streaming by outside. Late in the afternoon, but the plan for the day was finally set. If the weather improved, Looper would try to get to Monument Hill a mile to the E, the true summit of the whole Keno Hill (6,065 ft.) ridge.

This loop the G6 was parked at was the official end of Signpost Road, but the road actually extended farther E. All the way to Monument Hill? Who knew? Lupe was already at 5,500 feet, so that might be easily be the case. Without being able to see anything at all, though, even along the way, it seemed pointless to try.

Full of summer sausage and crackers, a contented Carolina Dog took to snoozing.

8-13-19, 6:30 PM, the Signpost turnaround loop near Keno Summit – No change, until just recently. Out of the fog now, but the cloud deck sailing overhead out of the W was only 100 to 150 feet higher. A dark gray edge in that direction never seemed to get here. On the SW horizon, a silvery ghost haunted the narrow band of visibility below the clouds – Mount Haldane!

A bored, well-fed, well-rested American Dingo yawned and stretched.

So, are we ever going to do anything here, SPHP?

Sure! We can go check out the stone monument and the Signpost, if you like. At least we have some limited views now. I doubt Monument Hill is going to escape the fog this evening, but we still might want to see how far we can get. That road to the E looks intriguing. Maybe it goes all the way to the summit? Might be now or never, depending on what tomorrow brings.

Outside the G6, the wind had died down considerably. Didn’t seem as cold. The Monument Hill vote quickly swung in favor of “now” instead of “never”, but not until a visit had been paid to the famous Signpost. The stone monument was closer, so Lupe inspected it first. Turned out this was the site of the first mineral claim filed in this region following the discovery of silver ore.

The plaque explaining the monument’s significance.

Overlooking a deep valley and several lakes, the Signpost was in need of some maintenance. A sign for the “Silver Basin trail” was laying loose on its concrete foundation.

At the Signpost. **Ladue Lake** (Center). Photo looks N.

*They ought to fix that, before it gets lost!*

Then it was off for Monument Hill (6,065 ft.) while at least some sort of window of opportunity still existed. Lupe started up the damp road that continued E from the end of Signpost road.

This ridge was the highest ground near the end of Signpost road. Although not the top of the mountain, it is probably the point marked “**Keno Summit**” on the **topo map**. Photo looks SSW.

Setting out for Monument Hill, the true summit of the entire Keno Hill ridge. Photo looks E.

Heading E toward the region known as Minto Hill, Looper hadn’t gone very far before the road divided. A decaying cabin was perched next to the road to the L (N) not far from the intersection. Lupe went to see it.

The same valley the Signpost overlooks, as seen from the old cabin. Part of **Gambler Lake** is the closest. **Ladue Lake** on the R. Photo looks NNW.

Looking back toward the end of Signpost Road from the old cabin. **Keno Summit** (L). **Mount Haldane** (Center). The G6 is visible on the R. Photo looks WSW with help from the telephoto lens.

The crumbling cabin wasn’t much to look at. The road that went past it headed N starting downhill just beyond it, clearly not the way to go. Returning to the intersection, Lupe followed the road to the R, which continued E up a slope. Soon she was beginning to get up into the fog.

By the side of the road looking up the mysterious foggy slope. Photo looks ENE.

Following the road that went to the R from the first intersection. Photo looks ESE.

Before long, the Carolina Dog reached a second intersection where the road divided again. This time the road to the R (SE) went past a big rock formation as it began descending into a valley. Lupe climbed up onto the rocks, but the fog was getting thicker. Nothing to see here.

The road that went R at the second intersection went by these rocks. Photo looks E.

Returning to the second intersection, Lupe followed the road that went L (N). This road led higher, climbing at an increasing pace as it began to curve E again. Skirting the N edge of Keno Hill, the road became nothing but rock. Optimism grew. Maybe this road actually did go all the way to the summit? Couldn’t be much farther now!

Continuing higher on the road that went L from the second intersection. Photo looks ENE.

Wanna bet? Turning SE as Lupe topped out, the road became less rocky crossing a flat region a good 100 yards wide before dropping down a rounded edge. E of the broad ridge Lupe had just crossed, a plain of dark rock interspersed with tundra sloped gradually higher.

Peering up the slope E of the road. Photo looks ENE.

The road doesn’t go all the way to the top, SPHP.

No, it doesn’t. That’s clear now, about the only thing that’s clear.

So do we keep going? Shouldn’t be much farther, should it?

That’s what I thought, but this fog might be exaggerating our perception of how far we’ve come. Don’t really like the notion of wandering off away from the road. Fog is treacherous. So easy to get disoriented! Doesn’t help that this terrain is so featureless. While I’d like to see you get your peakbagging success, Looper, we aren’t going to see anything, even if you do make it to the summit.

We could go a little way, couldn’t we? Maybe we’ll see something?

Maybe. Alright, but only a little way. We’re turning back if we don’t come to some sort of trail or landmark.

Sniffing 100 yards E, higher ground could be seen another 100 to 200 yards farther. That didn’t seem too far, so the Carolina Dog kept going. After gaining 30 to 40 feet of elevation, the slope became more gradual again, but the terrain was still definitely a little higher to the E. A 2 foot long pipe with an orange ribbon wrapped around it was just ahead. A fairly big cairn was faintly visible 50 to 60 feet beyond the pipe.

By the pipe with a bit of orange ribbon. The big cairn is straight up from Lupe’s head. Photo looks NE.

What the pipe signified wasn’t clear, but at least it was some sort of a landmark. Staying S of the big cairn, the American Dingo headed farther into the gloom.

Before long, what looked like another cairn appeared ahead. A moment later the fog swallowed it again. It had definitely been higher, so Lupe pressed on. The cairn reappeared as she got closer, but turned out to be only a single black and white rock, larger and whiter than most.

At the second “cairn”, actually a single large rock. Photo looks E.

Another glimpse of higher terrain ahead. The fog seemed to be getting thicker. These “landmarks” Lupe had found didn’t really amount to much. Despite SPHP’s increasing wariness, Loop continued E. A quick climb up another small rise and two more big cairns appeared.

The summit? Maybe. These cairns were only 30 or 40 feet apart. The tallest was toward a N edge. The other cairn sat SE of the N one. The American Dingo headed for the tall cairn. Even once she got there, it was hard to say, if this was the top of Monument Hill, or not. Nothing higher in sight, but quite a bit of ground to the S and E all looked roughly the same elevation. Inconclusive.

By the tall cairn that sat near a N edge. The second cairn is straight up from Lupe. Photo looks SE.

Perhaps Keno Hill (6,065 ft.) had one of those enormous summits where no one point is really noticeably higher than the rest? A little scouting looking for E and S edges might be required to confirm it.

Not necessary! While gazing SE toward the other big cairn from the N one, the fog momentarily weakened. Visibility improved. Well beyond the second cairn a rocky ridge appeared, definitely higher than where Lupe was now. A tall pole stood erect at the high point, jutting up from yet another cairn.

Thar she blows, SPHP! That’s got to be the true summit, doesn’t it?

The fog closed in again. The ridge vanished. No doubt about it, though, Loopster was right!

200 yards away? No more than that. A light rain began as Lupe closed in on Monument Hill, true summit of the whole Keno Hill ridge. Not all that steep from this direction, but the approach was extremely rocky.

Approaching the **top of Monument Hill**. Photo looks SE.

Made it! This was the summit alright. The Carolina Dog had seen on the way here that the terrain did drop away farther E. From the top of the ridge, the ground was seen sloping sharply away to the S, too.

SPHP congratulated Loop on reaching the top of Keno Hill! No views, of course. In fact, conditions seemed to be worsening. No sign of a registry, or a survey benchmark shown on the topo map. With a zillion rocks in the area, no telling where it might be.

In light rain and fog, Lupe sat next to the wooden pole at the high point. A moment of glory, but not one to be savored. No sense lingering under these conditions. 5 minutes, perhaps a bit more, and that was it.

On top of **Keno Hill**. Photo looks SSE.

Final moments atop **Keno** *(Monument)* **Hill**.

Foggy Keno Hill had been an adventure! Lupe had wandered a long way from the road, much farther than SPHP had originally intended. Still in fog, all the cairns she had passed along the way did help guide her back. Loopster never did see that one large black and white rock again, but did pass by the pipe with the orange ribbon.

Once back to the road, the rest was easy.

Back at the road, below the clouds again. Photo looks NW.

Near **Keno Summit** close to the end of Signpost Road. Photo looks SW.

8-13-19, 8:40 PM, the Signpost – Back from Monument Hill, the Signpost beckoned. Loopster returned. The road she had taken partway to the summit was in view to the E, the upper reaches of the mountain still cloaked in fog. At the very top of the Signpost was a sign SPHP hadn’t noticed before, one that showed how far N Lupe had already made it on this Dingo Vacation.

Loopster retired to the G6. 20 minutes later, a dense fog swept over the mountain. Rain lashed the tundra. The W wind blew in gusts. Light was fading.

11 km beyond the end of the Silver Trail! 185 miles from the Arctic Circle! With night coming on at 5,500 feet at the end of Signpost road, Keno Hill felt incredibly desolate and remote.