Day 10 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
4:30 AM, end of Signpost Road on Keno Hill – Light out already. The rain had ended, but still very foggy with a chill SW wind. Lupe was hungry. Some Taste of the Wild hit the spot, then it was back to snoozing.
8:19 AM, end of Signpost Road on Keno Hill – Still no change, except that the fog was brighter now. Might as well head back down to Keno City. SPHP fired up the G6.
A mile on Signpost Road and Lupe was already below the fog. Merely a gray day down here, with decent visibility. The whole point in coming all the way to the end of the Silver Trail had been to get a shot at climbing Mount Hinton (6,752 ft.), but that was a long march. No doubt it was still up in the clouds, too.
In Keno City, Lupe and SPHP strolled idly along the main street without any real plan of attack. A woman with 2 dogs harnessed to her was also out walking. Out of the blue, she invited Lupe to come along with. Why not? Might as well.
Marielle Reveille was a yoga teacher who was into essential oils. She was in Keno City to help with cooking for a film crew that produces a TV show about gold mining. Her two dogs were Lenny and Monday. Monday had a patch on her leg where foxtail seeds had worked into her skin and created abscesses requiring a veterinarian’s services to open them. Poor Monday had to have stitches twice, and had nearly died from an overdose of painkillers.
Lenny was fine, but had a peculiar fetish for going through culverts. Even during the short walk with Lupe, Marielle had to restrain Lenny from trying to enter a culvert. The walk with Marielle, Monday, and Lenny ended at the Keno City Hotel where they were staying.
The next adventure was in Keno City real estate. A bunkhouse was for sale! The charming bunkhouse was the perfect size for a Dingo, too! Love at first sight! Lupe was ready to move to the Yukon this instant, or at least have her own summer home right here in Keno City.
The bunkhouse was adorable, and a summer home in the Yukon did sound like a wonderful idea. If a real estate agent had been present, no doubt Loopster would have had SPHP signing papers.
As it was, though, the idea got lost in the hustle and bustle of a mid-August Keno City morning. A group of three women appeared. They wanted to meet Lupe and chat about their dogs and travels. Right after that, a man on the porch of the Keno City Mining Museum hollered that coffee would be ready in 5 minutes. And so it went.
12:41 PM near the Keno City campground – Things were looking up! An hour ago, the day had suddenly turned sunny and warm. Climbing mountains was back on the agenda! Too bad the morning hadn’t been like this. Lupe could have gotten a much earlier start.
Excited by blue skies, SPHP had things ready to go. A backpacking trip in the Yukon! First time ever. If the weather held, the American Dingo was going to get her shot at Mount Hinton! A mighty big if. Clouds were already reforming. Hardly any blue left. Despite returning uncertainty, Lupe left Keno City taking the road over Lightning Creek. For the moment, at least, it was on!
After crossing Lightning Creek, the road turned SW (R) and started to climb. Lupe passed a big gravelly area on the L. Before long she came to a junction where the main road made a sharp bend back to the SE (L). A mining road closed to the public went off to the W here. Another fairly short trudge higher brought the Carolina Dog to another junction.
On a bank overlooking the intersection, a sign was partially hidden by bushes. The Bellekno Mine Road went L, and the Sourdough Trail went R. The Sourdough Trail was the road Lupe was looking for. That was the way to Mount Hinton!
The Sourdough Trail made a jog to the W, followed by a sharp curve back to the SE, before gradually turning NE. The lower switchbacks were now done. For a long way, the Sourdough Trail climbed steadily NE along the NW face of Sourdough Hill (4,739 ft.). Tall bushes along both sides of the road effectively blocked any distant views.
The road eventually began to curl around the N end of Sourdough Hill. Upon reaching the E side of the mountain, Lupe came to a sharp turn where a short, rocky section of the road climbed steeply W. For the first time, the top of Mount Hinton (6,752 ft.) was in sight off to the SE.
To the NE, Keno Hill (6,065 ft.) was now out of the clouds. Loopster’s mysterious, foggy climb of the last few hundred feet to the summit yesterday evening looked trivial from here.
The G6 might easily have made it this far up Sourdough Hill, but it was a good thing it had been left in Keno. A high clearance vehicle would have been fine, but the short, steep stretch of road to the W was quite rough. No decent place to park here, either, except a little room up toward the top where the road widened as it curved S.
After turning S, the Sourdough Trail straightened and was in better shape again as it continued climbing at a fairly good clip. However, the rate of climb was slowly decreasing by the time Looper came to a side road the led off to the W. A sign that had seen better days said “Sourdough Summit Loop”.
Oh, that was good news! A road all the way to the top of Sourdough Hill! Sourdough Hill was Lupe’s first peakbagging objective, sort of a consolation prize in case the weather deteriorated and she never made it all the way to Mount Hinton (6,752 ft.).
The summit of Sourdough Hill was only 4 km from Keno City even the way the Sourdough Trail went, but SPHP had known that the Sourdough Trail stayed well E of the summit, and never actually went to the top. As thick as the bushes were, a bushwhack to get there hadn’t been anything to look forward to.
Naturally, Lupe took the Sourdough Loop Road. This road was rutted, rocky in places, and fairly steep, but served as a great trail. The road soon turned SW. Lupe followed it farther than SPHP expected she would have to before it suddenly faded away.
What? The Summit Loop Road didn’t go all the way to the summit? That appeared to be the case. However, the top couldn’t be much farther, and on the bright side, the bushes were already thinning out.
The good news was that the American Dingo only had to follow a single track path a short distance through the bushes. After that she could avoid them entirely by staying toward the W (R). She soon reached open tundra, and after short climbs up to a couple of nearly level benches, the top of Sourdough Hill was just ahead.
The top of Sourdough Hill (4,739 ft.) was amazing! Lupe found herself at the N end of a long, broad ridge extending far to the S. Only sparse tundra vegetation was present near the steep W face of Sourdough Hill, although bushes and stunted trees could be seen not too far away down the gently curved E slope.
100+ feet away near the W edge sat the only significant natural feature of the whole plateau, a single 6 foot high rock outcropping – apparently the true summit of Sourdough Hill! 20 feet from the rocks, perched a bit lower right along the edge, was a large bench with attached desk, a real bench that must have been taken from some old schoolhouse. This bench faced NW with a commanding view overlooking Keno City.
The American Dingo headed straight for the rock formation to claim her peakbagging success! At the summit, a metal rod protruded from a loose cairn of flat rocks. A wooden placard on top of the rod was blank.
A chilly 15 mph breeze blew out of the W. Still a cloudy day, but the clouds were high. Until just a few minutes ago, SPHP had expected that Looper would be buried in bushes on Sourdough Hill, instead she had fantastic views of the Yukon wilderness in all directions!
The big old school bench was a curiosity worth checking out, too.
Hoping to find the S end of the Sourdough Loop Road, which would be a shortcut back to the Sourdough Trail at a point closer to Mount Hinton, Lupe explored the Sourdough Hill summit region a little farther S. This reconnaissance revealed a wooden post 100 feet from the true summit, but that was all. No roads, trails, or tracks of any kind.
The whole plateau was so vast that trying to find a potentially fictitious road didn’t seem worth a prolonged search. Might as well return to the Sourdough Trail the way Looper had come up. Giving up on finding the S end of the loop road, Lupe returned briefly to the true summit before continuing on. At the N end of the summit region, she stopped for a last look at Keno City from Sourdough Hill.
Once back down to the Sourdough Trail, Lupe followed it S. The road climbed steadily regaining much of the 200+ feet of elevation she had just lost. As the road started to level out, another side road appeared that went W (R). This road was grassy and marked with a cross that said “Sourdough Bench”. Might this be the S end of the Summit Loop Road? Hardly mattered now, even if it was.
Continuing on, the road leveled out for the most part on the upper E slopes of Sourdough Hill, yet Lupe kept coming to additional slight rises. It began to seem like she must be almost as high as the true summit again. Near the S end of the long Sourdough Hill ridge, the American Dingo came to a third side road on the R (W). Why, if it wasn’t the S end of the fabled Summit Loop Road! It really did exist!
The high point of the Sourdough Trail wasn’t much beyond the S end of the Summit Loop Road. The road turned SSE and began a long, gradual descent leaving Sourdough Hill behind. Loopster’s ultimate objective, Mount Hinton, was in sight far ahead.
The road reached a temporary low point S of a big saddle. A tiny creek trickled through several puddles, providing Loop with an opportunity for a drink.
The stream marked the start of a long, level stretch. Lupe regained a bit of elevation as the road curved along a hillside, but it soon leveled out again heading ESE on a forested slope. Occasionally there were views to the S of rounded mountains across the Duncan Creek valley.
The road eventually began a descent into the valley. Lupe came to an abandoned cat at a 3-way intersection, where she stayed to the R. She later ignored a major side road that went to a mining operation.
Down in the Duncan Creek valley, Lupe finally came to the low point of the Sourdough Trail between Sourdough Hill and Mount Hinton. A little tributary of Duncan Creek was running down the road in two tracks here before heading off into the bushes.
Lupe reached a second tributary of Duncan Creek shortly before coming to a barren, rocky area on the L (NE) that had been completely graded or dug out in connection with some mining operation. This tributary was somewhat bigger, but still a small stream.
Duncan Creek itself was right around the next bend. The stream had been diverted from its natural course, and now ran in a narrow ditch right beside the road.
Near the end of the large barren spot on the L (N), SPHP stopped next to Duncan Creek. Just ahead the road was much steeper and extremely rough where it re-entered the forest.
That’s Mount Hinton we’ve been seeing ahead, isn’t it, SPHP?
Yup, that’s right, Looper.
Doesn’t look that far now.
I know. Either we’ve been making mighty good time, or Hinton isn’t as far from Keno City as I thought it was. Still a good climb, though. The road looks awfully rough ahead. I’m almost certain this is the place I’ve read most people with 4WD park and start their ascent. I’d been thinking this is where we’d camp. Not a great spot, though. Kind of rocky. I suppose we can make it work.
We’re stopping here? Not that late yet, is it?
5:30 PM, Loopster. Are you thinking what I’m thinking you’re thinking?
Well, seems like it has been getting cloudier, doesn’t it? You know how the Yukon weather is, SPHP. Mount Hinton has been out in the clear all this time. Still is. We don’t want to lose this opportunity, do we?
Excellent point. Alright, we’ll keep going. Let me ditch the tiny house, sleeping bags, and some of this gear, though. I can’t lug it all to the top of the mountain.
Near the start of the forest, the road crossed either Duncan Creek or its largest tributary yet. Last chance for water! The road became terribly steep and badly eroded, as Lupe crossed the stream and kept going.
The road improved after curving SE (R). A long straight stretch was ahead going up the side of a huge slope. Not quite as steep as that rough section, but still a good workout. Even after having dropped so much weight from the pack, SPHP was pausing frequently to gasp for breath. Lupe was soon above the forest. Looking back, she had her best view yet of the Duncan Creek valley. Mount Haldane (6,023 ft.) was visible in the distance far beyond it.
Up ahead Lupe could see the huge saddle separating Mount Hinton from Peak 6200 to the SW. By the time the road curved NE, she was already higher than that saddle, although she hadn’t pulled even with it yet. The relentless climb continued, finally easing up near a turn to the E.
The Carolina Dog had made it to Mount Hinton’s lower W shoulder. Only tundra up here, with a few widely scattered bushes. Flat ground N of the road provided a good spot for a break with a view of the canyon to the N. Even Looper was ready for a rest now. She eagerly tanked up on Taste of the Wild and water before relaxing on the tundra.
Optimism still reigned. The summit of Mount Hinton was now only 1.5 km due E, but the mood was turning gray, somber. Definitely cloudier and cooler than a while ago. Ahead the road climbed only a little way before curving SE and sweeping higher along Mount Hinton’s W slope.
Still 1,500 feet of elevation to go. At least, something like that. The break had been nice, but better get on with it! Lupe returned to the road.
Although this road (perhaps still the Sourdough Trail?) had brought the American Dingo all the way to Mount Hinton, it wasn’t going to get Lupe to the summit. Somewhere along Mount Hinton’s W slope, an ATV trail was supposed to go all the way up to the SE ridge.
Despite keeping an eye out for this ATV trail, Lupe didn’t come to it. It did look like some sort of trails were higher up, but no connecting route appeared. The road went on and on, finally disappearing around a bend leading to the S side of the mountain.
We don’t seem to be getting anywhere, SPHP. How much farther to the ATV trail?
No clue, Loop. Thought we would have reached it by now.
Maybe we should just skip it, and go straight up?
Sounds like a plan. Let’s go for it! Lead on Loopster!
Only 100 feet higher, the Carolina Dog came to a “road”. This wasn’t any ATV trail. Wide and rough, with some grass growing on it, this looked more like a route a bulldozer had once taken as it gouged and scraped its way higher.
Nothing wrong with that! The bulldozer route made a fine trail. Lupe followed it as it zig-zagged rather steeply up the W slope. Early on she passed a series of posts sticking up out of the middle of the route. Odd.
Up, up, up! The American Dingo was making great progress. High on the W slope where there was hardly any vegetation to begin with, the bulldozer had made a mess. It had gone hither and yon, scarring poor Mount Hinton rather badly. Lupe passed heaps of disturbed rock.
Above the rocky region where the bulldozer had hung out rearranging Mount Hinton, a lone route higher went SE a little way before curving NE.
Come on, SPHP! The SE ridge is in sight! We’re almost there!
SPHP plodded after Loop, arriving at the ridgeline minutes later to find her inspecting several timbers lashed together that were sticking up out of a big cairn. More timbers were on the ground next to the cairn.
The SE ridge was fairly narrow. Lupe had reached it at a minor saddle where it was gently rounded terrain. A rugged high point wasn’t far to the SE (R). What instantly grabbed attention, though, was a fearsome drop only a few feet past the cairn.
Looking over this precipice, Lupe gazed for the first time upon the wild unspoiled territory E of Mount Hinton. In a deep valley, a small dark green forest provided the only shelter. Above it loomed a mountainous ridge in multiple shades of gray, splashed here and there with patches of tan or brown. Beyond that ridge, was another one a more uniform tan. And beyond that, ridges and mountains turned blue by great distance as far as the eye could see.
Awesome! However, this wasn’t the top – the Carolina Dog had to keep going.
It appeared that Lupe might already be very close. Immediately N of the cairn was a rocky ridge. A bit of a scramble would be required to get up on top, but once there, what could be seen of the ridge from down here looked quite flat. Another post was in sight up there. The summit? Not even 100 feet higher!
Beneath a gloomy sky, Loop’s scramble among the boulders was short and quick. Little lanes of tundra made the going even easier. The first part was steepest. After that it became merely a gradual stroll higher on big rocks. The upper post soon came back into view. Lupe headed for it.
Oh, joy! Approaching the upper post, it was clear the American Dingo had reached the top of Mount Hinton (6,752 ft.)!
The summit plateau was wider at the SW end where Lupe had come up, narrower toward the NE. Four landmarks were here. The first was the upper post she had seen from the SE ridge. The second was a double post 40 feet N of the upper post. 50 feet E of the double post was a yellow metal tripod thingamajig, and 100 feet NE of the thingamajig sat Mount Hinton’s summit cairn.
Loopster went to visit the double post first. She had a terrific view of Sourdough Hill (4,739 ft.) which she had left hours ago. In the distance, Mount Haldane (6,032 ft.) was the dominant peak to the W.
Then it was on to the yellow metal tripod thingamajig. Lupe had to go by it to get to the summit cairn.
And then there she was! Sweet Lupe was sitting next to the summit cairn on Mount Hinton. A sublimely happy moment! For Looper it was temporarily, although deceptively, even sweeter with the discovery of a can labeled Islay Single Malt Whiskey stashed near the top of the cairn.
Already after 8:00 PM. Mid-August, yet it was chilly – low 40’s ºF with a N breeze. The views were fabulous, particularly to the N and E, but the whole sky was a brooding, forlorn gray. For half an hour, Lupe sat on SPHP’s lap huddled under a jacket. Facing N into the wind, everything nearby was a depressing gray or brown, as if winter was on the way.
Toward the horizon row upon row of blue peaks marched away until they faded into the haze of infinity. Many of those wild peaks were striking, splendid mountains, but few appeared appeared as high as Mount Hinton. What was out there? The Carolina Dog would never know more than what she could see from here. What was out there was a vast and incredibly beautiful land – ancient, desolate, lonely, magnificent.
30 minutes of rest and contemplation had done a lot of good. The were-puppy suddenly appeared and attacked SPHP before thankfully deciding to chomp a stick instead. A measure of calm was restored with another well-received offering of Taste of the Wild.
Picture time. Lupe roamed the area near the cairn, but being virtually surrounded by huge cliffs to the N, E, and S, she couldn’t stray far.
Loop had been so lucky to get here today! No rain, at least not yet, and the clouds had remained above the mountains. Reaching Mount Hinton was a dream come true! Even though it was getting late, Lupe and SPHP lingered savoring each moment.
After 9:00 PM. A marvelous hour already flown by. Lupe’s name was in the registry. She’d seen the splendors of the Yukon from Mount Hinton. What a grand time it had been! The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood offered SPHP a high four.
The inevitable sad moment. Time to go. Lupe stayed near the cairn, while SPHP got started.
SPHP called. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood came dashing across the top of Mount Hinton.
Onward! Puppy, ho! Lupe returned to the SE ridge and the bulldozer route. She was still high on Hinton’s W face where everything was so torn up when SPHP mistakenly led her down a different bulldozer track than the one she’d come up.
Although this bulldozer track was much rougher and steeper, it didn’t matter too much. Lupe finally reached the Sourdough Trail again, not far from where she’d originally left it.
Oh, it was all so easy now! Just follow the Sourdough Trail! Downhill all the way back to where the tiny house and sleeping bags were stashed next to Duncan Creek.
As Lupe lost elevation, the air grew warmer, comfortably cool instead of chilly. The downhill march felt good. Why camp at Duncan Creek? Why not keep going? Such a beautiful evening! Decision made.
The sun was down, twilight growing dim, by the the time Lupe reached Duncan Creek again. SPHP started gathering gear up. Ugh! Back to a heavy pack. Standing stock-still peering intently at the bushes directly across the creek, the American Dingo suddenly growled deep and low.
A chill ran up SPHP’s spine. What was over there? A bear? Nothing in sight, and no noise heard over the babbling brook. If a decision hadn’t already been made to keep going, one would have been now! Quietly finishing, SPHP hoisted the pack. Looper growled a couple more times, but followed SPHP down the Sourdough Trail.
A little farther on, after crossing all the little tributaries of Duncan Creek, it happened again. Lupe was past the abandoned cat, and clear up to the level part of the road when she stopped and growled once more. This time she was peering at the trees on the L (S) next to the road. A weak flashlight revealed – nothing.
A moment’s hesitation, then onward. Whatever Lupe sensed made no appearance. Just as well.
The quiet, cool, night trek was awesome, but long trudge back up to Sourdough Hill was wearying. Even in the darkness, the sky looked funny. Rain out of the W! A shower, no more. For 45 minutes, a light rain fell. Damp, but not drenched.
The descent to Keno City had already begun when great danger ambled out of the bushes alongside the road. A dreaded porcupine! No, two of them! Fortunately, the weary Dingo showed no interest.
The scattered lights of Keno finally came into view. Even downhill was hard now. Exhaustion was setting in. The Sourdough Trail went on and on. At last it was over. Lupe was crossing Lightning Creek. There was the G6! Hallelujah! (8-15-19, 1:47 AM)
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