Dawson City – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Smoked Out & A Change of Plans – Whitehorse, Yukon Territory to Chicken, Alaska (8-1-23 & 8-2-23)

Day 10 & Part One of Day 11 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-1-23, Whitehorse, Yukon Territory –

Are you ready yet, SPHP? It’s already noon! I thought you bought all the supplies we needed yesterday?

Sorry, Loopster. I thought so, too, but I keep thinking of additional things that would be nice to have, and it will be a long time before we get another chance to acquire them once we leave town. Anyway, that’s about it. Just need to check on the weather and Dempster Highway road conditions, and we’ll be on our way.

Ugh! Why, SPHP? They told you at the visitor center only yesterday that the Dempster Highway reopened 2 days ago. Do we really have to go back there again?

A mighty long stretch of the Dempster had been closed due to wildfires, Loop – all the way from the Ogilvie River way past Eagle Plains. They warned me that part of it might get closed down again. However, we don’t have to go back to the visitor center. They said I can check for updates on 511yukon.ca. Might as well do it while we’ve still got cell service. No sense in driving clear up there if fires closed the highway again.

Seems incredible to think that wildfires could be that bad so far N, SPHP.

Yeah, absolutely nuts, isn’t it, Loop? Hardly believe it myself. Hmm. Let’s see here. Good news! The Dempster Highway is still open. 80% chance of rain today and the next several days in Faro, so there goes that potential side trip on the way there. Too bad! Guess we might as well head straight N to the Dempster.

And then on to Tuktoyaktuk, Land of the Pingos, SPHP!

8-1-23, 12:39 PM, N. Klondike Hwy No. 2, Fox Lake – Yesterday afternoon a rain shower had cleared the air in Whitehorse, but as Lupe peered into Fox Lake from the dock by the campground boat ramp, a familiar white haziness was in the air, especially toward the horizon. Not a good sign.

Sign at the entrance to the Fox Lake campground.

Out on the **Fox Lake campground dock**. Photo looks SW.

**Fox Lake** from the dock. Photo looks NW.

Peering into the cold, green, watery world of **Fox Lake**.

8-1-23, 2:57 PM, 80ºF – The smoke really wasn’t all that bad at Fox Lake, but by the time Lupe got to Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon River, it was considerably worse. Although the Carolina Dog was already well N of Carmacks and the turn E toward Faro where there was supposedly an 80% chance of rain today, the afternoon was sunny, warm, and dry. In fact, it was just plain hot in a fur coat.

The Five Finger Rapids sign looked older than it used to be. Weeds grew among the thirsty flowers in the planter beneath it. The view deck and wooden stairway down to the trail to the rapids were more weathered than SPHP remembered, too.

At the **Five Finger Rapids Recreation Site** N of Carmacks.

**Five Finger Rapids** from the upper view deck near the N Klondike Hwy. Photo looks SW.

One of the informational displays at the upper view deck.

Despite the heat and smoke-marred views, Lupe made her traditional 0.76 km trek down to the observation deck near the rapids. At least the islands among the once dangerous rapids could be clearly seen from here.

On the partially shaded trail to the lower observation deck.

**Yukon River** from the lower deck. Photo looks WSW.

Lupe panted hard in the heat on the way back up the 219 step staircase leading to the parking area. Continuing the drive N along N Klondike Highway No. 2, SPHP ran the RAV4’s AC. Meanwhile the temperature outside continued to inch higher.

8-1-23, 5:02 PM, 82ºF – After fueling up the RAV4 at Pelly Crossing and driving across the bridge, SPHP parked at the turnout overlooking the Pelly River.

**Pelly River** at **Pelly Crossing**. Photo looks SW.

Brief **history of the Pelly Crossing region**.

The smoke doesn’t seem to be getting any better, SPHP.

I know it, Loopster. Keep thinking we ought to drive out of it, but it’s been smoky for more than a thousand miles since we first noticed a haze in the air after leaving Smithers way back in British Columbia. Not sure what to do about it, except keep driving. Sooner or later, there’s got to be an end.

What happens if there isn’t, SPHP? What if the smoke extends all the way to Tuktoyaktuk?

Clear to the Arctic Ocean, Loopster? That can’t be! Simply not possible! We’ll drive out of it somewhere along the way. You’ll see.

I’m starting to wonder, SPHP. The wildfires must have been bad if they closed the Dempster Highway at Eagle Plains, and that’s still a long way N.

The Dempster is open now, Loop. Maybe they got some rain in the past few days? Eagle Plains has been a monsoon every time we’ve ever been there. Remember fleeing the freezing rain that turned to snow back in 2019? We were lucky we didn’t get stuck, and that the Ogilvie River didn’t sweep us away that night. It was practically over the highway the next morning where we parked.

True enough, SPHP, but that was then, and this is now. And like you say, we’ve been through 1,000 miles of smoke already.

8-1-23, 6:01 PM – An hour later, SPHP stopped again at Stewart Crossing to have a look at the displays and let Lupe stretch her legs.

The **Silver Trail** starts at **Stewart Crossing**.

**Mayo Road history**. The Mayo Road is the Silver Trail.

The Silver Trail! Remember Mount Haldane and Mount Hinton, SPHP? They were fabulous!

Don’t forget Keno Hill way up in the fog and mist and that crazy mileage signpost where we parked, Loop.

We could sure use some of that fog and mist today, SPHP!

True enough, and from the Stewart Crossing bridge there did seem to be at least a glimmer of hope. Looking upstream, the way the Mayo Road went, the smoke wasn’t quite as thick as it had been. Unfortunately, in the downstream direction, the way N Klondike Highway No. 2 went, the smoke was as thick as before.

At the **Stewart Crossing bridge**. Photo looks S.

**Stewart River** upstream view. Photo looks SE.

**Stewart River** looking downstream from **Stewart Crossing**. Photo looks W.

NW of Stewart Crossing large regions of burnt boreal forest appeared. However, none of it was on fire now. Judging from the green grass and bushes already reemerging on the forest floor, it seemed these areas had burned during some recent prior year.

Beyond the burnt regions, N Klondike Hwy No. 2 deteriorated. The RAV4 raised great clouds of dust on long stretches where the pavement had been stripped away. A great swath of trees had been bulldozed, making the road enormously wide.

**N Klondike Highway No. 2** NW of Stewart Crossing. Photo looks NW.

The farther SPHP drove, the worse shape these construction zones were in. Bumping along, weaving among ruts and soft spots, the speed limit dropped to 30 km per hour. Despite what ought to have been excellent weather for road construction, there was no sign of activity. Eventually, enormous pieces of machinery were seen strewn motionless along the edge of the highway, like rusting dinosaurs whose epoch had come to a sudden, unexpected end.

Feels like we’re driving into the apocalypse, SPHP, like it’s the end of the world and time itself!

It was hard to disagree. Finally reaching the turnout that doubled as a Tintina Trench viewpoint, the displays that used to be here were gone. Only a limited smoke-marred view of the trench remained beyond the bushes growing up to hide it.

A hazy view of the **Tintina Trench**. Photo looks NNW.

8-1-23, 8:40 PM – It wasn’t much farther to the Dempster Highway. 20 more km, and the American Dingo was there. All was quiet as the sun sank into murky clouds in a pale orange sky. SPHP was surprised to see a new unattended gas station. The old one, which had finally upgraded its ancient pumps, now advertised itself as “discount gas” for the bargain price of $1.899 per liter.

At the **S end of Dempster Highway No. 5**. Photo looks W.

SPHP filled the RAV4’s tank.

On to Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP?

Heh, I don’t know, Loop. Let’s hang out here near the Dempster Highway display for a little while. Maybe someone will come along who can give us a report on what it’s actually like farther N?

Lupe didn’t have long to wait. 10 minutes, and 3 motorcyclists came roaring across the bridge over the N. Klondike River. Sure enough, they pulled right up onto the display’s gravel pad and stopped.

Stay in the RAV4, Loop. I’ll find out what they have to say.

SPHP met 2 middle-aged men and a younger one, who was the son of one of the older men. Their uniforms were coated with dust, and the dad had some trouble, moving gingerly. After SPHP volunteered to take group photos next to the display for each of them on their phones, they were willing to chat for a few minutes about their Dempster Highway experience before roaring away.

So what did the motorcyclists say, SPHP? How far N did they go? Is the road still open all the way to Tuktoyaktuk? Where does the smoke end?

It was an incredible tale, Loopster. Yes, the road is open. These guys went all the way to Tuktoyaktuk, but it was smoky the entire way, even at the Arctic Ocean! They didn’t get to see much of anything except smoke. Eagle Plains was awful. Even worse, both older men crashed their bikes, one at a spot where the highway suddenly turned from gravel to river rocks. He suffered a concussion and has several cracked ribs. The young guy’s dad said he was glad that he’s done the Dempster Highway once now, but that he’s never, ever coming back.

Oh, my gosh! That’s terrible, SPHP, but river rock won’t crash the RAV4. Are we still going N?

Sheesh, I don’t know, Looper. Let me ponder it. How can the dang smoke extend clear to the Arctic Ocean? Yet it does. Kind of pointless, if we can’t see anything. I told those guys that we wanted to climb some mountains. They all said we could get to Tuktoyaktuk if we wanted to, but thought that climbing mountains in the smoke was nuts – a really bad idea.

Well, while you ponder, can we at least get out of the RAV4 for a while, SPHP?

Sure, let’s take a stroll over to the bridge.

The walk to the Dempster Highway bridge over the N. Klondike River was a short one. Soon Lupe was standing at the start of the bridge with the road that was to have provided access to many adventures during this Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation beckoning beyond her.

The road to adventure! At the **Dempster Highway bridge over the N. Klondike River**. Photo looks E.

Alright. I’ve decided. We can’t give up so easily, can we, Loop? We’ve come such a long way already to get here.

Does that mean we’re going on to Tuktoyaktuk, SPHP?

We’ll see. Let’s just take it one day at a time. Sooner or later the smoke’s got to clear. It’s not far to Tombstone Territorial Park. Maybe we can do something there tomorrow?

That sounds terrific, SPHP! I love Tombstone Park.

Returning to the RAV4, the Carolina Dog’s long anticipated journey N on the Dempster Highway began. Driving over the bridge and 4 miles past it, SPHP then parked at a wide spot near a side road. After hitting 82ºF and staying there for hours during the afternoon, the evening had now cooled off into the upper 60’s.

What’s wrong, SPHP?

Cheese and crackers, Loopster?

Sure, SPHP, but why did we stop? Are we spending the night here?

SPHP kept feeding Lupe cheese and crackers and munching away on them, too, for a while before answering.

Nope. Not spending the night here. This isn’t going to work. I already caught a glimpse of the Ogilvie Mountains ahead. Barely. The smoke is terrible, Loop. There’s a huge plume drifting into them from somewhere off to the SE. Must be big fires nearby.

So, what are we going to do, SPHP?

Alaska, Loopster! Maybe skies are blue there?

And this is it for all of the Dempster Highway adventures we had planned?

Not necessarily, Loop. Perhaps we can come back later on.

8-1-23, 11:11 PM – Fortunately, Carolina Dog are flexible planners. Lupe was unfazed. The evening air was pleasantly cool as she stood atop the ancient, decaying, over-sized bench atop Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.). Unsurprisingly, air quality still hadn’t improved in the least. The views of Dawson City and the mighty Yukon River were all marred by smoke.

On the **ancient wood bench** atop **Midnight Dome**. Photo looks S.

The **Yukon River** from behind the bench. Photo looks NW.

**Dawson City** from **Midnight Dome**. Photo looks SE.

8-2-23, 6:19 AM – Of course, the Dempster Highway wasn’t all that far back, and there had always been a chance that the sky would clear by morning. No such luck! Returning to Midnight Dome’s summit, Lupe had a final look around before SPHP drove back down the mountain.

Morning at the ancient **Midnight Dome bench**. Photo looks SW.

During a brief tour of Dawson City, Lupe visited the S. S. Keno, had a look at some of the shops, and hung out with a wooly mammoth, before SPHP decided it was time to get in line for the George Black ferry across the Yukon River to the Top of the World Highway.

The historic **S. S. Keno**, which once plied the **Yukon River**.

About **wooly mammoths** in the **Yukon**.

Crossing the **Yukon River** aboard the George Black ferry.

8-2-23, 12:40 PM – Crossing the Yukon River aboard the ferry took less than 10 minutes. After climbing out of the river valley, a long, ordinarily scenic drive winding W atop enormous, gently rounded ridges ensued, passing Cassiar Dome, Swede Dome, and many others along the way.

The smoky haze made the drive less thrilling today, but as SPHP parked the RAV4 on a ridge near the W end of the Canadian part of the Top of the World Highway, there seemed to be hope of improvement. Off to the NW, the sky looked bluer.

C’mon, Loopster! Let’s go for a romp. Davis Dome (4124 ft.) is in sight past US/Canadian customs. We’re almost to Alaska!

**Davis Dome** (L), **US/Canadian customs** (R) in the distance. Photo looks WNW.

A huge cairn Lupe had been to years ago still sat atop a hill just N of the highway. The American Dingo revisited it for a last look back into the Yukon before continuing on into Alaska.

Looking ENE back into the **Yukon** from the huge cairn.

As usual, Lupe breezed through US customs, entering Alaska without a hitch. The winding drive now continued SW on a beautiful new paved stretch of highway past Davis Dome all the way to Jack Wade Junction where the pavement ended and Taylor Highway No. 5 turned N on its way to Eagle on the Yukon River.

The Carolina Dog had never been any farther than Steele Creek Dome in that direction, and wasn’t bound that way today, either. Instead, SPHP continued driving SW on the Taylor Highway, which went down the Jack Wade Creek valley, crossed the South Fork of the Fortymile River, and wound around Lost Chicken Hill (2,150 ft.) shortly before reaching the historic gold mining community of Chicken, Alaska.

8-2-23, 1:33 PM ADT, 75ºF, Chicken, Alaska – After SPHP filled the RAV4’s tank at the Gold Panner, Lupe visited the big chickens out front.

Still some smoke around, SPHP, but it doesn’t seem too bad – certainly an improvement over conditions back at the start of the Dempster Highway. Maybe coming to Alaska was the right thing to do after all?

I sure hope so, Loop. I’m ready to do something other than drive forever. No more than an hour to Mount Fairplay (5,541 ft.) from here. Want to climb it again this afternoon? Been 4 years since we’ve been there.

Mount Fairplay? That would be awesome, SPHP! Onward, RAV4 ho!

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Dempster Highway Travelogue

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Doing Domes – the Top of the World Highway from Dawson City to the Alaska Border, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-24-18)

Day 21 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

7:20 AM, 50°F, Midnight Dome near Dawson City – A warm night! Kind of nice. Rained the whole time. Outside the G6, it was still coming down. Mist and fog. So no big rush to do anything. SPHP caught up the trip journal while Lupe dozed or watched raindrops on their sudden dashes down the windshield. Not too scintillating.

9:21 AM, 45°F – No change in the weather, but the American Dingo was about to get underway! A day of peakbagging Domes along the Top of the World Highway was in store. Lupe kicked things off with a super easy one. Since she had spent the night on Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.) not far from the summit, a second quick ascent was in order.

Lupe had already seen the lovely views of the Yukon River and Dawson City from Midnight Dome yesterday evening. No special reason to make another ascent except for its own sake. She certainly wasn’t going to see anything this morning. On the other paw, the summit was only a trivial 20 feet higher than the viewpoint along the loop road, and the Carolina Dog was already here, so why not?

Two minutes after escaping the G6, Lupe was again standing on the huge, rustic wooden bench at the top of Midnight Dome.

*The views were better yesterday when there were some! Can we go now? I’m getting wet!*

Heading back down Dome Road to the North Klondike Highway and Dawson City, the thrill of not having seen a thing wore off pretty quickly. Not to worry, more excitement was only minutes away! SPHP let Lupe stand in the rain near the fabled Yukon River, which actually was in view, while waiting for the George Black ferry.

The **Yukon River** ferry landing at the N end of Dawson City.

10:19 AM, 48°F – The ride across the Yukon River aboard the George Black ferry is free, and the ferry operates around the clock. Vehicles had been disembarking on the far shore when Lupe arrived, but soon the George Black was on its way back.

The George Black ferry (L) is the only way across the **Yukon River** at Dawson City.

10:36 AM, 48°F – Once across the Yukon River, Lupe and SPHP set out on the Top of the World Highway (Hwy 9) to look for the road to Clinton and Cassiar Dome (4,450 ft.). Hwy 9 climbed steadily out of the river valley. For several miles, the road was paved. Even before it turned to gravel, Lupe was back in fog again. Rain continued without let up.

A discouraging start, but after 40 km, occasional breaks appeared in the clouds. Lupe could sometimes see nearby ridges, and even enjoyed brief moments of sunshine. This more hopeful weather held for the next 15 km, before conditions deteriorated again. Only a few km farther, about 59 km from Dawson City, the road to Clinton appeared as a R (N) turn.

SPHP hadn’t noticed any signs for Clinton along the Top of the World Highway, but a white sign 200 feet N of the junction mentioned Clinton Creek, so this had to be the right road. The topo map showed that 6 km (4 miles) N of this intersection, Clinton Road goes over a saddle that might make a decent starting point for an ascent of Cassiar Dome.

However, the weather was lousy. No point in leaving the Top of the World Highway just yet. The American Dingo was going to have to wait for improvement. SPHP parked the G6 at large level area W of Clinton Road close to the intersection. Might as well wait here.

11:47 AM, 43°F, km 59 of the Top of the World Highway – After a quick romp in the rain and fog, it was time for lunch. Canned salmon and Ritz crackers! Lupe feasted on both. Nothing changed outside, so after lunch the Carolina Dog took a long nap. Not to be outdone, SPHP joined her.

2:20 PM – Still raining, but the sky is a bit brighter, and the fog isn’t as dense. To the N, some of Clinton Road is visible. The whole area it goes through looks heavily forested. If that is what the route to Cassiar Dome is going to be like, Lupe will get absolutely soaked before she’s 20 feet from the G6.

However, off to the SW, a barren ridge is in sight. The map shows that Swede Dome (4,150 ft.) isn’t too far beyond that ridge. Maybe Lupe ought to forget Cassiar Dome, and go check out Swede Dome instead? With only a little over 300 feet of elevation gain required, Swede Dome isn’t much of a climb, but considering the circumstances, that’s a good thing! The Top of the World Highway passes right along the N and W slopes, so it won’t be a long trek, either.

Maybe Lupe can climb Swede Dome even in this weather?

On the Top of the World Highway en route to check out **Swede Dome** (Center). Photo looks SSW.

2:38 PM, 44°F – SPHP parked the G6 W of Swede Dome close to the km 64 marker. Only light rain at the moment, probably about as good as things are going to get today. Swede Dome is not forested, and the top isn’t that far away. Might as well give it a go!

Leaving the G6, Lupe crossed the highway, went up an embankment, and started up a long, broad slope.

Starting up **Swede Dome**. Photo looks ESE.

Swede Dome was an easy climb. Not too far from the top, Lupe reached a region of low bushes, and thick, spongy tundra which made things a bit more difficult, but abundant blueberries slowed SPHP down more than anything else. The steepest part of the climb was just above this zone, but didn’t take long. Soon the slope was leveling out.

The top of the mountain was a large, nearly flat area of tundra dotted with sporadic low bushes and a few scattered conifers. Several cairns were along the N rim. Lupe came up from the W, and still had a bit of a march ahead of her to get to the actual high point.

Relaxing on the soft, wet tundra on top of **Swede Dome**. Photo looks NE.

Approaching the cairn (L of Center) at the true summit.

The true summit of Swede Dome was somewhat E of the center of the spacious flat region, nowhere near any edge. A big cairn sat at or very close to the actual high point. Nearby, an ancient battered washtub was attached to a post. Lupe got up onto the cairn to claim her Swede Dome peakbagging success!

At what appeared to be the true summit of **Swede Dome**.

*At least I got one dome done along the Top of the World Highway today!*

*Oh, yeah, this is magnificent! Without being able to see very far, we’re kind of hard up for Swede Dome highlights, aren’t we?*

Fog occasionally swept over the mountain. The cloud ceiling was too low to permit any distant views. Looper couldn’t see much from Swede Dome, except along the N edge where she could look down on the Top of the World Highway.

The Top of the World Highway from along the **N edge of Swede Dome**. Photo looks NE.

Toward the W end. The slope Lupe had come up is on the R. The G6 is in sight. Photo looks WSW.

3:26 PM, 44°F – Lupe didn’t stay up on Swede Dome for long. Less than an hour after leaving the G6, she was back. She had scarcely returned, when the sky brightened. For several minutes, sunshine filtered through the clouds. Coming on the heels of Loopster’s Swede Dome success, the sunlight was enough to revive hopes for Cassiar Dome. Clinton Road was only 5 km back. Maybe Lupe ought to at least go take a closer look?

Approaching Clinton Road, a high hill could now be seen off to the N. That had to be Cassiar Dome, didn’t it? In front of the hill was a faint rainbow.

A faint rainbow comes down to Clinton Road in front of **Cassiar Dome**. Photo looks N.

3:52 PM, 45°F – Coming from the W, a green street sign for Clinton Road did appear along the Top of the World Highway prior to the turn. SPHP drove N on Clinton Road almost to the saddle SW of Cassiar Dome. Two side roads split off from the same point on the R (NE) side of Clinton Road shortly before reaching the pass.

Most interesting! SPHP parked the G6. The map didn’t show these side roads. If either one could get Lupe closer to Cassiar Dome (4,450 ft.), that would be a huge help! The sunshine had disappeared, and it was raining again, but Lupe and SPHP got out for a look.

The side road on the L went NW toward a big ridge. Whether the road was destined to go up onto the ridge, or around to the other side couldn’t be seen from here. The top of this ridge was actually the route that SPHP intended Lupe to take over to Cassiar Dome, provided it wasn’t forested. Didn’t look like it was, either, so that was great news!

The side road to the R went NNE, more directly toward Cassiar Dome, but gradually losing elevation as it disappeared from view among tall bushes. Apparently it wasn’t headed for the top of anything. Between these two roads was a sign. Unfortunately, the sign gave no indication where either road went.

These side roads off Clinton Road are about 4 miles N of the Top of the World Highway. **Cassiar Dome** on the R. Photo looks NNE.

Sticking with the original plan by taking the side road to the L as far up onto the big ridge as possible seemed like the thing to do, except for one thing. Looking over at Cassiar Dome, a thin, but distinct line could be seen in the vegetation running horizontally along the SW slope. That line wasn’t an awful lot higher than where the G6 was now. 200 feet?

A road? Had to be, didn’t it? Maybe this side road to the R didn’t keep sinking into the valley between here and Cassiar Dome, but instead went around the N end of the valley to link up with the road over there? That would be awesome! A fabulous shortcut, a road directly to Cassiar Dome! What a gift! Lupe had to check out that possibility.

A short foray was made down the road to the R. Loop didn’t have to go far before the side road leveled out. More horizontal line could be seen on the side of the slopes ahead. Yes, it did look like this road might well be the same one visible on the side of Cassiar Dome!

So taking the side road to the R became the new plan, but the plan couldn’t be implemented yet. Raining too hard! The way things were looking, Lupe would almost certainly get drenched if she took on Cassiar Dome today, probably multiple times, but that didn’t mean she had to start out when it was raining this hard. Lupe and SPHP retreated to the G6, as more rain and fog swept through the region.

4:39 PM – Still rather foggy, but not raining. Now or never! Abandoning the G6, Lupe and SPHP headed out taking the side road to the R. Other than one empty beer can, Loop saw no sign that anyone ever comes this way anymore. Not a speck of trash. In a few spots, the wilderness was starting to close back in, but the road was never completely blocked. The little road served as a great path, fine nearly the entire way. The Carolina Dog made rapid progress.

Shortly after starting out on the minor side road that went to the R. Photo looks N.

Looper leading the way exploring ahead. The SW slope of **Cassiar Dome** is in the fog on the R. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe had a blast running and sniffing, but wisely did not venture into the wilderness on either side of the road.

After going perhaps a couple of miles, the road reached the lower SW slopes of Cassiar Dome (4,450 ft.). The most direct route to the summit would have been to leave the road right away and start climbing. However, the mountainside was steep here, and thickly covered with wet bushes taller than SPHP.

Lupe wouldn’t have to climb terribly far to get up above the bushes, but such a feat looked like a struggle. The Carolina Dog was already sopping wet from vegetation on the road. SPHP was only wet to mid-thigh, and wasn’t anxious to get totally soaked head to foot.

Maybe the road would climb above the bushes, if Looper followed it far enough around the S end of Cassiar Dome? That might add quite a bit of distance, but following the road was fast. Wouldn’t take that long to at least give it a shot.

So Lupe stuck with the road quite a bit farther as it curved SE around the N end of the Cassiar Creek valley. Loop got all the way to the S end of Cassiar Dome where the road turned E. She’d gained a little elevation, but not much. However, it was enough. The slope leading higher to the N wasn’t as steep as before, and only a narrow band of tall bushes had to be negotiated before Lupe would reach open ground.

Leaving the road, the American Dingo charged N up the slope. Lupe was beyond the stand of tall bushes in practically no time. Only relatively low bushes, rocks, tundra, and scattered stunted conifers up here. Off to the SE, Clinton Road was in sight. SPHP could tell where the junction with the side roads was back where the G6 was parked. Lupe still hadn’t gained much elevation. 200 feet max, maybe less.

Looking back to the SE shortly after leaving the side road. Clinton Road is easily seen on the L on the far ridge. The side road Lupe had taken to get here is faint, but detectable on the R. The roads meet at the distant gentle saddle at Center.

Beginning her search for the summit of Cassiar Dome, Lupe headed N. She had gone so far S on the road that it was going to be a bit of a trek. Loop came to a series of big benches on the way. None were difficult climbs.

Looking N at one of the first big benches Lupe climbed on the way up **Cassiar Dome**.

A colorful slope leading to another bench. Photo looks NW.

As Lupe climbed, stunted trees and even low bushes vanished. The last couple of benches were just rocks and tundra. By the time Lupe reached the top of the last bench, she was on a wide tundra plain in dense fog. The terrain sloped barely higher as Looper continued N. Couldn’t be too much farther to the summit, could it?

On the last bench, wondering how much farther to the summit? Would the true summit even be a recognizable point? Photo looks N.

In the Yukon fog, what was probably only a 5 to 10 minute march N on the uppermost bench seemed endless. At last, a dimly perceived dark form could be seen ahead. A few more steps, and the looming presence transformed into a hill of dark rock. This hill was maybe 100 feet high. That had to be it! The summit of Cassiar Dome was up there!

Lupe approaches the hill of dark rock at the N end of the last bench. Photo looks N.

Up until now, Lupe had been exceptionally lucky. So far, she had only been sprinkled on a few times. Suddenly, though, the fog was getting darker and denser. Rain! Going to get it this time! Before taking on the dark rocky hill, SPHP stopped to put on the rain poncho.

The intrepid American Dingo started climbing. Lupe arrived at the top of Cassiar Dome (4,450 ft.) in the worst weather of the day. Raining hard with a cold W wind. Miserable!

The summit area was roundish, at least an acre in size. Big patches of dark-colored rocks were scattered over tundra-covered terrain. Lupe came up near the S end. Not too far to the NE sat what appeared to be a large cairn of dark rocks. This cairn was higher than anything else on the mountain, but may not have been at the true summit. The highest natural terrain seemed to be closer to the NW edge.

Lupe visited both the cairn and the natural high ground, but under these inhospitable conditions, only briefly. Couldn’t see a thing in this fog, anyway, and the cold wind and rain weren’t any fun at all.

On the big cairn of dark rock on top of **Cassiar Dome**.

*Better get your photo fast, SPHP! I’m not staying up here forever!*

Exploring (briefly) the summit of **Cassiar Dome**. The cairn is L of Center.

*This doing domes business isn’t as much fun as I’d hoped it would be.*

The weather improved markedly shortly after Lupe began her descent. She went down the SW slope to begin with, but then had a mysteriously long march curling back around to the E looking for the long upper bench where she had finally seen the summit hill. Perhaps SPHP had gotten turned around in the fog to some extent?

Whatever the reason for the unexpectedly long march, Lupe did make it back to the upper bench.

Back on the long upper bench during the descent. Photo looks S.

On the way down the various benches, Lupe emerged from the fog. She now enjoyed her best views from Cassiar Dome. The weather was still unsettled, but Loop could see farther than before. Wispy banks of fog sailed with dramatic effect among rounded hills and ridges beneath a still overcast sky.

View to the WNW while still fairly high on **Cassiar Dome**.

The side road Lupe followed from Clinton Road is easily seen on the far slope beyond her. Clinton Road is on the L. Photo looks SW.

Looking over the Cassiar Creek valley toward Clinton Road. The junction with the Top of the World Highway is on the L. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.

For Lupe, the highlight of the whole trek back down the benches to the side road was seeing two deer, or maybe they were caribou? Lupe didn’t care which they were. Even though they were a long way off, she was excited and keenly interested.

*Oh, Lupe, it’s you! You scared the piss outta me!*

The descent down the benches was pretty easy. Once Loop made it back to the side road, she still had close to 3 miles to go to get back to the G6 the way the road went. It was all fun, though.

Well, almost. During the return, Lupe had only been lightly sprinkled on a few times. Ten minutes before the Carolina Dog made it back to the G6, though, the sky darkened again. Hurrying didn’t help. Only five minutes short of the G6, Loop and SPHP endured a second drenching.

8:10 PM, 45°F – Immediately upon reaching the G6, SPHP drove back to the Top of the World Highway and turned W. It wasn’t raining over by Swede Dome, in fact Lupe had a much better view of Swede Dome now than she’d had earlier.

**Swede Dome** from the Top of the World Highway. Photo looks SSW.

**Swede Dome** with help from the telephoto lens. Lupe had climbed it earlier from the R.

SPHP stopped briefly at km 64 again, where Lupe had started her trek up Swede Dome. The weather had improved so much that Loop could now see from the highway the views to the W that had been hidden when she’d been way up on Swede Dome.

Lupe returns to km 64 of the Top of the World Highway. Photo looks WSW.

9:23 PM, km 106 – Too late! Lupe arrived at Alaska/Yukon border to find the customs station and gates closed. Only open 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM. Loop was going to have to wait until morning to enter Alaska for the first time on this Dingo Vacation.

No problem! SPHP drove back E a couple of km to a high ridge where a big pullout was on the S side of the Top of the World Highway. The American Dingo could spend the night right here! The customs station at the border was in view, so Lupe could even monitor any activity.

Heh! Maybe not. Minutes later, the fog rolled in once more.

The customs station on the Alaska/Yukon border is in view past Lupe’s head on the side of the far ridge. Photo looks NW.

*Let’s see, two domes done today. Three, if I get to count Midnight Dome again.*

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.