Yukon – Page 7 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Yukon Bound! – Getting Nowhere on the Long Road North (8-8-19 to 8-10-19)

Days 4-6 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-8-19, dawn, Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 W of Jasper – Uh-oh. Warning! Dingo triggering event ahead! Not another soul on the road yet, but SPHP had to brake. One of those portable temporary stoplights for road construction had just turned red. Lupe stared in disbelief, her eyes growing big as saucers as she began to realize what she was coming to. Her hackles rose. SPHP completely shut the windows on her side of the G6. Here it comes!

The G6 exploded with noise, as Looper sprang into action. A full-fledged 5 alarm, frothing at the mouth, barking frenzy was underway! The American Dingo bounded up and down, back and forth, whacking her head against the windshield, nose smearing against the side window, decibel level as high and shrill as she could possibly maintain it.

Egads! Turn green for pity sake! The stoplight remained a stubborn cherry red. 15 feet outside Lupe’s window a magnificent bull elk looked up momentarily. What was all that racket? Whatever it was all about, the elk decided it didn’t concern him, and went back to casually munching whatever it was he was munching.

A mile later, sides still heaving, Lupe gasped.

What is the matter with you, SPHP? It takes a thermonuclear device to get your attention! An enormous giant deer was frozen in place right there outside the G6! Easy pickings! We could have been feasting on fresh, warm, bloody venison right now! Don’t tell me you didn’t see it!

Oh, I saw it alright, beyond a brown and white blur! How could I not see it with you about to bust a gut for 10 solid minutes? I thought that light would never turn green. We are in a Canadian National Park, Loop. I’m reasonably certain park officials would frown upon us devouring a freshly killed elk right next to the highway. Besides, what makes you think it would be that easy? That giant deer must have outweighed you 50 to 1!

You would have helped me, wouldn’t you, SPHP?

Of course. I could use a few years free room and board courtesy of the Canadian government. Shudder to think what might become of you, though, Loop.

Tangle Ridge had been a grand success yesterday, but over 3,800 feet of elevation gain had taken a toll. The giant deer frenzy must have sucked up whatever energy the Carolina Dog had recovered overnight. Yukon bound, the day turned into a relaxing road trip. Serenity returned as Loopster took to snoozing on her pink blankie.

That didn’t mean there couldn’t be a few stops at favorite places. Still needed to stretch now and then to keep the blood circulating.

**Overlander Falls**, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia.

**Rearguard Falls**, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, British Columbia

**Rearguard Falls** on the **Fraser River**.

Exploring near the **Goat River** rest stop.

The whole day got spent cruising NW on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16, all of it in British Columbia after crossing the border from Alberta early on. Shortly before reaching Fort Fraser, a tall plume of black smoke came into view on Lupe’s side of the highway. Traffic was backed up ahead.

Turned out to be a badly burnt out vehicle. Spontaneous combustion? Didn’t seem to be the result of a collision. By the time Lupe went by, the fire department had already put out the fire.

Sure hope the ole’ G6 doesn’t get any ideas, SPHP!

Yeah, that’ll be us someday, Looper. We’re bailing, though, at the first sign of trouble. If you ever sniff smoke, let me know right away.

Like that would help! I’m not expecting any rapid response miracles out of you, SPHP, after that giant deer episode.

Well, warn me anyway. I’m likely to be more excitable, if the G6 threatens to burst into flames.

At the **Dry Williams Lake** rest stop. A year ago forest fires had rained ash on the G6 here.

By late afternoon, Lupe was at Steelhead Park in Houston. Small, but exquisitely maintained. Sniffing the fragrant blossoms of all the colorful flowers was pure delight! Looper paid homage to the Dingo god, too.

**Steelhead Park** in Houston is always such a lovely break!

*So why doesn’t our yard look like this, SPHP? … Something to do with a brown thumb, Loop!*

8-8-19, 5:45 PM, Smithers, British Columbia – The long drive was over for now. Lupe reached Smithers near the Babine Mountains with sufficient daylight remaining to explore the town. She visited the Bulkley River, then took a stroll down Main Street looking for the Sausage Factory. A year ago she had met the former owners, Fred and Teresa Reitsma, at Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon River. They’d been on their way to Dawson City.

Fred and Teresa had invited Lupe to drop by the Sausage Factory, if she ever got to Smithers again. Now she was here, but too late! The Sausage Factory was closed for the day. Too bad. It looked like a ritzy place! The product line was of considerable interest to a famished American Dingo, too. Maybe Loop could return tomorrow?

By the **Bulkley River** in Smithers, British Columbia.

Outside the **Sausage Factory**, 1107 Main Street in Smithers, British Columbia.

*We’ll go in tomorrow, right, SPHP? … With any luck, Looper!*

Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) was on the agenda tomorrow, a super prominent (5,000 ft.+) peak W of Smithers. Lupe wouldn’t be able to get to the true summit, which was a technical climb. The S summit wasn’t much lower, though, and was supposed to be accessible by a route that continued higher from Crater Lake.

By sunset, Lupe was at the Crater Lake trailhead, high on Hudson Bay Mountain’s S flank. A gorgeous evening! Things were looking good!

**Hudson Bay Mountain** (L) from **Astlais Mountain** exactly one year earlier on 8-8-18.

8-9-19, 6:58 AM, Hudson Bay Mountain, near the Crater Lake trailhead – The Carolina Dog sniffed aimlessly around the G6. Fog and mist. Hardly an inspiring start to the day. It was what it was. Reality rules. No point in this. Oh, well.

Down in Smithers a short while later, it was just an overcast day. Only the upper half of Hudson Bay Mountain was shrouded in clouds, but that was the half Lupe had hoped to visit. Some sort of front must have moved in overnight, nothing too dramatic, but enough to be a spoiler. Kind of a shame. Hudson Bay Mountain wasn’t the only candidate on Lupe’s list in this region.

However, didn’t seem to be much sense in waiting around. The Yukon was still a long way. Somewhere skies were blue! Without even waiting for the Sausage Factory to open, Lupe was on her way again.

20 minutes W of Smithers, SPHP drove into rain. 20 minutes W of Seeley Lake, the long drive on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 finally came to an end. Lupe was on her way N on Cassiar Hwy No. 37! The Alaska Highway in Yukon Territory was now only 724 km (450 miles) away. The rain stopped 40 km later. At 60 km, a patch of blue sky was seen ahead.

The weather improved as the G6 sped N. The scenery was gorgeous! Big lakes, mountains, and rivers, but Lupe seldom got a break from being cooped up. This was really wild territory, with hardly a trail anywhere as far as SPHP knew. Daunting. The only significant stop Lupe made was at the Stikine River, a favorite spot known to harbor squirrels in the forest near the riverbank.

Lunch break at the **Bell 1 rest stop** 117 km N of Meziadin Junction.

At the **Stikine River**, looking upstream toward the Cassiar Hwy bridge.

Looking downstream. The Grand Canyon of the Stikine starts not far from here.

8-9-19, 7:15 PM, Beaver Dam rest stop along Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Only 75 km left to the Alaska Highway, but enough was enough. After a bite to eat, having spent practically the entire day on the road, Lupe finally got to do some exploring. N of the rest stop a dirt road curved slowly NW into the forest. Maybe it would lead to the beaver dam? None was in sight at the rest stop.

A gentle 0.33 mile uphill stroll led to a bit of a drop into a little valley. No beaver dam. So far, SPHP had found only mosquitoes. Lupe was doing better. A couple of squirrels had come to her attention, and now to her enormous satisfaction, she came across a succession of mud puddles covering the entire road. The American Dingo plopped herself right down in each one, clearly enjoying lapping up murky mineral water, and that oh, so wild and natural feeling one gets from being absolutely filthy.

Upon getting back to the Cassiar Hwy, SPHP picked as much trash out of the ditches as could be carried back to the rest stop for proper disposal.

We’re doing something wrong, Loop, when a load of trash, and a dingy Dingo are the highlight of the day!

8-10-19, 35ºF at the forest fire pond along Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Chilly out, but at least the sky was blue! By the forest fire pond Lupe squinted into the brilliant glare of the morning sun. Going to be a great day! Another one on the road again, though. Lupe had already made a few tracks. This pond was what, a mere 30 km from the Yukon?

In the early morning sunlight by the forest fire pond.

8:08 AM, 39ºF, Yukon border, Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Two days of pent-up energy could be contained no longer. The were-puppy attacked as soon as SPHP stepped out of the G6. Leaping, growling, nipping, tugging, tearing – all the usual were-puppy tactics.

You know, were-puppy, you are at least part of the reason I’m always in tatters!

Oh, you love it, SPHP! It’s all in good fun!

For some of us. I notice you don’t ever come away turning yellow and green and purple and blue.

Sorry ’bout that. Now and then I get carried away.

Apology accepted, provided you let go of my pants without ripping them any further. How about a romp in the woods along the Yukon border? Might be a squirrel out there somewhere!

A romp and a squirrel sounded good. After visiting the Yukon border sign, Lupe dashed off into the forest. A squirrel did materialize, making SPHP look like a genius.

Made it! At the **Yukon Territory border**!

Burning off some steam early on was a good thing. 2 km N of the Yukon border Cassiar Hwy No. 37 came to an end. SPHP turned W (L) onto the Alaska Highway. Hours slipped by, the only significant stop being a now traditional one at Teslin Lake.

**Teslin Lake** – a traditional Lupe stop along the Alaska Highway.

By **Teslin Lake**. **Dawson Peaks** (R). Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

By early afternoon, Lupe had left the Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner, and was on her way back into British Columbia heading S on Hwy 7 to Atlin. A lunch stop was made on a bluff overlooking the N end of Atlin Lake and Mount Minto (6,913 ft.).

**Atlin Lake** and **Mount Minto** (R) from a bluff Lupe discovered in 2018. Photo looks S.

Atlin Lake is long and narrow. It was still quite a way to the town of Atlin on its E shore. Shortly before Loopster got there, SPHP spotted a couple of float planes on Como Lake, a small lake W of Hwy 7. Might be fun to go take a look. The American Dingo was all for it!

Checking out the float planes at **Como Lake**.

*Oh, this does look like fun! We could go soaring over the mountains!*

None of the stops today had been terribly long. By mid-afternoon, Lupe was back in Atlin again! A year ago, she’d had a terrific time climbing Monarch Mountain SE of town.

At the Atlin marina, with **Monarch Mountain** in the background. Photo looks SE.

Being back in Atlin was exciting! Lupe went to the waterfront to see the gorgeous lake and the Tarahne, a century old excursion boat which had once upon a time brought tourists to Atlin.

*Oh, it’s wonderful to be back at fabulous **Atlin Lake** again! And with big plans, too!*

By the **Tarahne**, which decades ago had brought tourists to Atlin.

Off to the SW was the reason Lupe was here. Across Atlin Lake near the far W shore was a large island. Teresa Island was dominated by a single massive mountain which occupied virtually the entire island. In 2018, Lupe had seen Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.), not only from Atlin, but also from Monarch Mountain (4,728 ft.).

**Birch Mountain**, the whole reason Lupe had returned to Atlin. Photo looks SW.

For the past year, SPHP couldn’t help thinking that Birch Mountain had looked climbable from the N. Why, Lupe could do that! From the top there ought to be a fantastic view of the Llewellyn Glacier, which the Carolina Dog had glimpsed on the far horizon from Monarch Mountain. Birch Mountain had a peculiarity, too, which added to its overall appeal. With 1,393 meters (4,570 ft.) of prominence, Birch Mountain was the 2nd most prominent lake island in the entire world!

Until Lupe had run across Birch Mountain, it had never occurred to SPHP that she might be capable of summiting the 2nd best of any class of mountain in the whole world, yet here was an opportunity to do so in this remote NW corner of British Columbia, an area Lupe had been close to on her summer Dingo Vacations these past 3 years. The whole notion was so enticing!

Beyond the usual weather considerations, 2 significant problems needed to be addressed. First, how to get over to Teresa Island? Second, how to get above tree line? The lower portions of the island looked densely forested. Was there a trail? If not, was the forest open enough to simply amble up through it without too much difficulty? If Looper could get above tree line, the upper regions of the mountain appeared to be quite manageable. SPHP was confident she could reach the summit.

Time to get some answers! Across the street from the waterfront was a hotel. SPHP went in to see what might be learned, while Lupe waited in the G6. Hotel personnel directed SPHP to the Atlin Historical Society a few blocks away. The Historical Society turned out to be a museum. Inside, a couple of old ladies were busy answering tourist’s questions.

So what did you find out, SPHP?

Nothing yet, Loop. Didn’t even talk to them. Might be wrong, but I doubt they know anything at all about getting to Teresa Island or climbing Birch Mountain in there.

What now, then?

I think there was a sign when we came into town about kayak rentals. Not going to take on Atlin Lake in a kayak, but maybe they rent motor boats, too? Let’s go have a look.

Sure enough, there was a sign. Glacier View Cabins, canoe and kayak rentals, 12 km on Warm Bay Road.

Glacier View Cabins seemed worth checking out.

Driving S on Warm Bay Road, SPHP saw no sign of Glacier View Cabins. After going an extra 2 miles, SPHP turned around. On the way back N, there it was! A sign was near a steep driveway on the E side of the road, away from Atlin Lake. SPHP drove up only as far as the first couple of cabins before parking the G6. Lupe hopped out.

Nobody seemed to be around. Lupe and SPHP trudged farther up the steep driveway. At the upper end, a home sat perched on a slope with a fabulous view of Atlin Lake and the Llewellyn Glacier. SPHP rang the doorbell. No answer. Knocking and ringing again didn’t help. On the verge of giving up, Lupe and SPHP were still standing next to the door, when suddenly a man appeared carrying a basket of laundry.

Peter Sidler and his wife, Edith, who wasn’t home at the moment, own and operate Glacier View Cabins. Originally from Switzerland, Peter had been a resident of Atlin for the past 37 years. Although busy, he invited Lupe and SPHP into his home.

Peter had canoes and kayaks available for rent, but said Atlin Lake was too big and dangerous to cross over to Teresa Island in such craft. He also had a motor boat that would have worked, but it was rented out for the next 2 days. The following 2 days it was committed to participation in a search and rescue class.

Peter did share some good information. Over the years, he had climbed Birch Mountain multiple times. There were no trails on Teresa Island, and Peter was skeptical of SPHP’s proposed route from the N. He’d never tried that, but expected the willows would make it tough to get through the forest.

The best route was from the SE, where a major rock slide gets down to within 200 meters of the shore. Staying on the rocks made the climb much easier. Peter had once gone up the NW side of the mountain, but that was more difficult. Yes, Birch Mountain could be climbed in a single day, but it would be a long, hard one.

Although Peter couldn’t get Lupe to Teresa Island in the next few days, he knew who might be able to help. No regular water taxi services were available in Atlin, but Archie Wiggins had tremendous experience in the area and ran charter services with his large boat. Gary Hill might also have a suitable boat available. A call to Mr. Wiggins went unanswered. Probably out on the water with clients.

Armed with phone numbers and instructions on how to find both Wiggins and Hill, Lupe and SPHP departed after thanking Peter for all his help. Returning to Atlin, Lupe dropped by Wiggins’ house, but no one was there. At the Hill household, Gary’s wife, Bobbi, was out in the yard. She was friendly and summoned Gary. Again no luck. Gary’s boat was rented out, and wouldn’t be available for a whole week. He had no other options for Lupe.

That left Archie Wiggins, Lupe’s last and best bet. After dinner, Loop and SPHP returned to his house in Atlin. A vehicle was there now, but knocking on the door and walking around back produced no response. Hmm. Suddenly the front door opened. Barefoot and in an old T-shirt, Archie Wiggins strode out of the house. Peter and Bobbi had both called Archie leaving messages on Lupe’s behalf. So what did SPHP want?

Passage across Atlin Lake both to and from Teresa Island.

Wiggins and his boat were available tomorrow, but his response was surprising.

Don’t really know much about Birch Mountain. We don’t get much call for it. People seldom want to hike Birch. Usually they helicopter over there. Most people I deal with want to go either to Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) where there’s a trail, or Cathedral Mountain (6,965 ft.). Cathedral is a gorgeous mountain, a premier destination.

Not familiar with Cathedral. What does it cost to go there? Really came for Birch. Are you willing to take us to Teresa Island?

Are you alone? Just you and the dog?

Yes.

For drop off and pickup, it’s $1,000 to Cathedral. Really a wonderful trip, and a fabulous peak. To Birch, $175. That’s just to the NE shore. More if you want to be dropped off somewhere else.

$175?

Do you have inReach?

I suppose maybe we ought to, but no. I don’t.

We get a lot of intrepid individuals up here, who’ve done some amazing things. My customers know what they’re doing and come prepared. I’m not going to be responsible for anyone who’s going to put themselves in a situation.

With that, without waiting for a response, Archie Wiggins turned and went back into his house. The door banged shut behind him.

That went well.

Dingo feathers! I totally blew it, Looper! The moment he quoted $175 for Teresa Island, I should have asked him what time we could start in the morning. I only hesitated because I was wondering if I ought to ask him about going to the SE side of the island to the rock slide Peter mentioned. Could have done that once we were already on board crossing the lake. He would have been thrilled to charge us more, if we didn’t like the looks of the NE shore.

He still might have asked you about inReach.

Maybe, but maybe not, too. We might well have been on our way! It would have worked out. Wiggins knows what he’s doing, and he was our last and best chance. Can’t believe I let it all fall apart like that.

Too late now. Why don’t we take the helicopter, SPHP? That would be amazing!

That’s right! He did say most people helicopter to Birch.

Discovery Helicopters was close to where Hwy 7 reached Atlin. Right away SPHP ran into Matt, a young, professional helicopter pilot.

Birch Mountain? No problem. Alone? That’s too bad. Price is the same for up to 4 people. We fly you up to an upper ridge. Still a nice hike to the summit from there. Spectacular views! Just tell us what time you want us to meet you again for pickup back at the ridge. Too late in the day to go now, but we can get you there as early as you like in the morning.

Price? Well, 10 minutes flight time one way. Two round trip flights. That’s 40 minutes. Gotta figure some time for loading and unloading. $1,000 will do it. If someone else wants to fly beyond Birch about the same time, we could save you something on that, but don’t think we have anyone lined up at the moment. Drop in again in the morning, if you want to go. We’ll see if that’s changed, and work out the details. We’ll get Lupe up there!

SPHP thanked Matt and returned to the G6.

Are we really going in a helicopter, SPHP?

It’s a great deal with 4 paying passengers. $250.00 each, Canadian. Lucky American Dingoes get a nice discount at the current exchange rate. How are those royalties on your blog doing? Rolling in the dough by now, I hope?

Business has been, umm, steady, SPHP.

Still nothing, aye?

Zippo.

Any book advances or movie rights in play?

The agents just mutter something about “extremely limited market”. By the way, what does “infinitesimal” mean?

In this context, Loopster, it means “Ain’t gonna happen.” How about those endorsements? Anything happening there?

I haven’t really endorsed anything except playing in the mountains and T-bone steaks.

No ad revenue, either, I don’t suppose.

There might be, eventually, if we ever come up with an ad.

I see. Well, doubt I can rustle up 3 additional paying passengers in the next few hours. Atlin is a small place. Probably doesn’t make sense to hang out at the marina tomorrow trying to buy a random ride from some boater to Teresa Island, either, since we’ll actually need to get back, too.

No helicopter ride?

At $250, yes. Absolutely. What an experience! Not at $1,000. We can get more bang for our buck at another mountain. To tell you the truth, I’m sort of used to free, other than our normal travel expenses.

And that was that. Lupe’s Birch Mountain dreams had gone up in smoke. The Carolina Dog left Atlin heading back N on Hwy 7. Sundown found her at a little rest stop along the E shore of Atlin Lake. The lake was almost mirror smooth. The evening so calm, and a little sad.

6 days into what was meant to be Lupe’s grandest Dingo Vacation of 2019, Tangle Ridge had been her only major peakbagging success. Failure at Hudson Bay Mountain. Failure at Birch. She’d traveled the long road N to the Yukon, and wasn’t far from it now, yet it seemed the Carolina Dog was getting nowhere fast.

SPHP might be concerned, but Lupe wasn’t. Tomorrow was another day.

**Birch Mountain** from the E shore of **Atlin Lake**, British Columbia, Canada 8-10-19

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Monarch Mountain near Atlin, British Columbia, Canada (8-12-18)

The Crocus Trail to Pine Creek Falls, Atlin, British Columbia, Canada (8-11-18)

Glacier View Cabins (Peter Sidler)

Discovery Helicopters

Archie Wiggins (Atlin Lake boat charters) PH: 250-651-7542

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Angelcomb Peak, Tombstone Territorial Park & the Midnight Dome, Dawson City, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-23-18

Day 20 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

5:45 AM, km 107.6 at the East Blackstone River rest area – Cold! Small wonder. Ice on the windshield, and new snow on the G6. A quick step outside was discouraging. Even chillier out here, and as always, the skies were overcast. May as well hit the snooze button again. Lupe and SPHP retreated back inside, and ducked under the blankets.

A chilly start to the new day at km 107.6 of the Dempster Highway. Too cold to bother with details like focusing the camera!

9:18 AM, 31°F, km 94 at the two-tier bubbly pond pullout – Still overcast, but the clouds are tinged blue. If the sun could just warm things up a bit, maybe some of this stuff would burn off? SPHP made short work of the last Ensure, and heated up some soup. Meanwhile, Lupe wandered the edges of the big pullout sniffing among the tall bushes.

11:46 AM, 42°F, km 81 at the Angelcomb trailhead – Good news and bad news! The good news was that the day had warmed up. Even better, the sun had broken through! Blue skies here and there. As SPHP had driven S on the Dempster Highway, the Ogilvie Mountains were gorgeous, and looking so enticing!

By the time breakfast was over, the **Ogilvie Mountains** looked like they might be about to escape the cloud cover.

On the drive S, encouraging amounts of blue sky were appearing.

The bad news was that the weather wasn’t consistent. Still plenty of clouds hanging around. The mood kept changing depending on which way they went. Lupe had two peakbagging options nearby to select from. A longer, more difficult route to Mount Chester Henderson via Charcoal Creek Ridge, or a shorter trail up Angelcomb Peak (6,300 ft.).

Then again, still plenty of clouds hanging around.

With the weather as variable as it was, maybe sticking with the shorter trail up Angelcomb made the most sense? On the road S, the Carolina Dog decided the question once and for all, by suddenly puking up on her blankets. The other bad news! Yeah, better stick with the shorter trail.

Lupe waits near the Dempster Highway during a quick stop to clean up her blankets. She seemed to feel much better immediately after throwing up, but maybe it was best to go for the easiest peak today, in case she got worse again.

On the E side of the Dempster Highway at about km 81, a closed yellow gate across a wide side road blocked access to a highway maintenance area used for gravel storage. This side road effectively serves as a trailhead for an unofficial trail up Angelcomb Peak (6,300 ft.). Even though several other vehicles were already here when Lupe arrived, SPHP had plenty of room to park the G6.

The American Dingo was in sunshine, but Angelcomb Peak was still in the clouds as Lupe set out.

Setting out for **Angelcomb Peak**. Photo looks NE.

Beyond the yellow gate, Lupe quickly came to a big flat area with a huge mound of gravel stacked on one side. Information SPHP had seen online indicated that Lupe ought to go toward the R (SE) side of the gravel yard to look for a trail. However, a stack of big boulders sat over that way.

Straight ahead toward Angelcomb Peak, a gentle slope covered with bushes overlooked the gravel yard. A couple of people up there were working their way R (SE) toward the area the trail was supposed to be in. Maybe they were already on the trail? The route they were taking certainly looked easier than dealing with the boulders.

Loop went straight on past the mound of gravel, and got up onto the same slope. The bushes were chest high on SPHP, and a complete jungle for Lupe. The trail was nowhere to be seen, but there were lanes among the bushes that were relatively easy to follow. The people had vanished. Lupe and SPHP headed off to the R, in the same general direction they had taken. Sure enough, within minutes, Loopster did come to a trail.

The trail was in decent shape, and gained elevation at a moderate pace. It headed E up the S side of a little draw toward a high point not too far away. As Lupe got higher, the bushes began to thin out. By the time she was close to the high point, they were already becoming scarce. Back to the W, Looper could see the gravel yard, the Dempster Highway, and the wide upper East Blackstone River valley.

On the S side of the little draw near the start of the unofficial trail to Angelcomb Peak. Photo looks ENE.

The gravel yard Lupe started from is beyond her. The wide valley the **East Blackstone River** originates from (Center) is across the Dempster Highway. Photo looks W.

The trail didn’t go all the way to the first high point it had been heading toward. However, only a short side trip was required to go visit it, so Lupe did. The view of Angelcomb Peak to the N was encouraging. The clouds had lifted enough so that even the summit was sort of in sight.

The trail heads toward **Angelcomb Peak’s S ridge** (R). The summit (Center) looked like it might soon be cloud-free. Photo looks N.

Checking out the first little high point. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe returned to the trail, which now headed up Angelcomb Peak’s S ridge. The next phase of the journey was to get up to a big, relatively flat, rocky shelf that was quite a bit higher. The trail headed right for it.

Heading up the S ridge. The flat rocky area (R) is an intermediate goal en route to the summit (Center). Photo looks N.

*We’re almost to the flatter rocky part of the ridge now!* Photo looks NNE.

Even before Loopster reached the first high point, someone had been standing way up on the rocky shelf. As Lupe got close, a woman was coming down. SPHP talked to her briefly. Her husband was still up there watching Dahl sheep through his field glasses. Pressing onward, Lupe and SPHP soon met Michael Kawerninski.

Michael was friendly, and encouraged SPHP to take a look through his binoculars at 3 Dahl sheep grazing on the slopes of Trapper Mountain (6,628 ft.) to the E. The sheep were mere tiny white specks, so far away they were difficult to spot without the glasses. Lupe gave no indication that she was even aware of their existence.

Just like Lupe, Michael and his wife had been all the way to Tuktoyaktuk on the Arctic Ocean, so it was fun talking with him. They were from Smithers, British Columbia, which Lupe has been to several times. In fact, Lupe had passed through Smithers on her way N. Michael was about to follow his wife down, but said he would leave information at the G6 about hiking trails in the Smithers area.

When Michael left, Lupe went on. The rocky shelf wasn’t completely flat, and the trail wasn’t always right on top of it, but this region was much easier than what was ahead. Beyond the rocky area, the trail steepened considerably. Before Lupe even got that far, the sky suddenly started clearing to the E. The fog blew away. At one point, Lupe had such a great view of Trapper Mountain, that SPHP thought maybe she could go climb it after summiting Angelcomb!

The sky begins to clear over by **Trapper Mountain**. Photo looks NE.

*Look at that! Maybe we can go climb **Trapper Mountain** next?* Photo looks E.

Excited and spurred on by that notion, Lupe’s now steepening trek up Angelcomb Peak continued. However, the clouds soon returned. The next time SPHP glanced over toward Trapper Mountain, it had vanished again! Lupe could still see to the S and W, though.

The trail didn’t always stay right up on the ridgeline. Here Lupe is W of, and a bit below, the rocky shelf. Photo looks N toward the summit (Center).

**Goldensides Mountain**, which Lupe had climbed in 2017, is on the L. The Dempster Highway and **North Fork Pass** are on the R. Photo looks S.

Getting to the final push up **Angelcomb Peak**. Photo looks NW.

**Mount Robert Henderson (6,998 ft.)** appears briefly in the distance on the L. **Blackcap Mountain (6,000 ft.)** is at Center. **Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.)** is beyond Lupe on the R. Photo looks SE.

**North Fork Pass** and the Dempster Highway. Photo looks S.

Upper **East Blackstone River valley** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

**Angelcomb Peak’s S ridge**. This is the way Lupe came up. Photo looks SSE.

On the final steep ascent, the path faded and became braided. Several times SPHP lost it completely. Didn’t matter, since it was perfectly clear the route went straight on up to the sharp peak ahead. That was about the only thing that was clear, though. Angelcomb Peak (6,300 ft.) was still in the clouds. During the last 200 feet of elevation gain, Loopster climbed in a cold fog.

Poor Loop didn’t complain, but she wasn’t having much fun. She felt sick again, and threw up once more. With encouragement from SPHP, she persevered and managed to reach the summit of Angelcomb Peak.

Feeling sick in the cold fog, but still heading higher. Fortunately, not much farther now!

The top of Angelcomb Peak was an airy, rocky, little hillock. Most of the hill was covered with dirt or scant vegetation from which a number of rocks protruded a foot or two higher. Two rocks, quite close together and nearly equal in elevation, formed the true summit. They were right along the edge of a fog-filled chasm of indeterminable depth to the NE. A ragged ridgeline to the NW vanished into fog, too.

Despite the gloomy conditions and not feeling so great, the American Dingo immediately perched up on the highest rocks to claim her rather nauseating peakbagging success.

Success! Lupe at the **true summit of Angelcomb Peak**. Photo looks NW.

On the same summit rock, but this time looking NE.

Only a minute later, the fog began to thin a little. More of the NW ridge could be seen. Loop could also see to the S and W. However, virtually nothing could be seen to the N or E yet.

A minute later, more of the **NW ridge** came into view. Photo looks NW.

The **East Blackstone River valley**. Photo looks WSW.

The **summit of Angelcomb Peak** – just about the whole thing. Photo looks ESE.

*Well, we made it! Hope you don’t feel as queasy about it as I do!*

After a quick initial look around, SPHP sat leaning against the highest rocks. Lupe curled up on a patch of dirt nearby. A 10 mph S breeze felt quite chilly. Between the breeze, the fog, and the cold hard ground, the Carolina Dog was soon persuaded to get up on SPHP’s lap, which was warmer and more comfortable, and where SPHP could stroke her.

Since Lupe was only 200 feet up into the fog, SPHP figured breaks in the clouds might appear fairly often. Visibility was poor overall, but with a little patience Looper might get some pretty decent, if brief, views.

This theory worked out fairly well. Often the fog was so thick, Lupe couldn’t see a thing, but it never stayed that way. One after another, clouds streamed on by, suddenly revealing big views. The views never lasted, either. The next cloud was always on the way.

The views that did appear were almost always to the S or W. Lupe never saw Trapper Mountain to the E again. At one point, Angelcomb’s whole NW ridge was completely out in the open, and toward the end of Lupe’s stay, the fog did clear out of the deep valley to the NE enough to be able to see the bottom of that formerly hidden chasm.

Off to the S, Lupe sometimes saw Goldensides Mountain (6,000 ft.), a terrific peak she had climbed almost a year ago, and its close neighbor Blackcap Mountain (6,000 ft.).

**Angelcomb Peak’s NW ridge** during a brief moment out in the clear. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

The **East Blackstone River** and ponds near **North Fork Pass**. Photo looks SW.

Looking down **Angelcomb’s short SW ridge**. The gravel yard where Lupe started out from is on the L. Photo looks SW.

Most of the fog finally drifts away revealing the valley to the NE.

After 30 minutes at the summit of Angelcomb Peak, Lupe was feeling better. She’d had enough, though, and was ready to start down.

At a dramatic point shortly after beginning the descent. Photo looks S.

Lupe went right back down the S ridge, the same way she had come up. The views improved at first, as she got below the cloud cover. By now, though, there wasn’t any blue sky anywhere.

Lupe on the descent. **Blackcap Mountain** (L) and **Goldensides Mountain** (R) are both near the (Center). Photo looks SSE.

**Blackcap Mountain** (L) and **Goldensides Mountain** (R) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSE.

A glance over at the ridge leading to **Trapper Mountain** (R). Photo looks E.

Lupe was definitely feeling better. She ran about sniffing and exploring, exhibiting no signs of her earlier problems. The descent went quickly. The American Dingo stayed on the trail all the way to the very end to see where it actually came out at. In the little draw the path had come up, she came to a 10 foot drop into a gully that appeared to have been washed out during heavy rains.

The washed out gully at the start of the trail. Photo looks W.

A two second scramble down into the gully ultimately led to the pile of boulders in the SE part of the maintenance yard. When Lupe got back to the G6, SPHP found the note Michael Kawerninski had promised under the windshield wiper. (4:13 PM, 43°F)

5:16 PM, 42°F, km 71.5 at the Tombstone Interpretive Centre – With so many clouds, and Lupe not at her best, Angelcomb Peak had certainly been the right choice today! After getting back to the G6, SPHP had driven S to the Tombstone Interpretive Centre to see what the weather forecast was for tomorrow. Maybe after a good night’s rest, Lupe could do Mount Chester Henderson? That would be awesome!

The weather forecast posted in the Tombstone Interpretive Centre, dashed that hope. 60% chance of showers tomorrow, 100% chance of rain the next day, then one nice day when it was supposed to be sunny. After that, 60% chance of showers again.

Forget it! Not sticking around for days hoping for a single nice one. Sadly, Lupe’s adventures along the Dempster Highway, and the new all-season road to Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean were over. Angelcomb Peak was the grand finale! All that remained was the drive back to the start of the Dempster Highway. What a fantastic, memorable trip it had been, though!

6:32 PM, 59°F, km 0 at the start of the Dempster Highway – SPHP couldn’t believe how much better the weather was S of Tombstone Territorial Park. Blue skies appeared. The temperature soared to an amazing 61°F! Lupe bathed in brilliant sunshine. SPHP fueled up the G6 at the junction with the North Klondike Highway.

Heading W on the North Klondike Highway to Dawson City, it all lasted 10 glorious minutes. Back under cloudy skies. Oh, well! At least it was still the warmest out it had been in many days.

In Dawson City, Lupe enjoyed an hour spent window shopping. SPHP broke down and bought an Alaska burger, whatever that was, at Dino’s Restaurant. An Alaska burger turned out to be a fish sandwich with fries. Lupe couldn’t stomach fish yet, and turned her nose up at it.

At a Dawson City park near the Yukon River.

9:50 PM, 50°F at Midnight Dome – One last late peakbagging adventure to take care of! Just E of Dawson City was a L turn off the North Klondike Highway onto Dome Road. Dome Road was paved and wound all the way up Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.), a big hill overlooking Dawson City and the mighty Yukon River.

The end of the road made a loop past a viewpoint where a couple of plaques told about Dawson City, and related an entertaining tale about how Midnight Dome got its name.The views of Dawson City and the Yukon River from Midnight Dome were lovely, and the peakbagging was a cinch. From the viewpoint by the road, Lupe only had to gain 20 feet of elevation on a short stroll to the top of a mostly barren, rounded hill. On top of the hill was a single perfectly ordinary picnic table, and a huge, rustic wooden bench.

After testing out the bench, which easily supported a single American Dingo, Lupe returned to the G6.

**Dawson City** and the **Yukon River** from **Midnight Dome**. The Klondike River joins in from the L (E). Photo looks upstream (SW).

The **Yukon River**. Photo looks downstream (NW).

On the back side of the Midnight Dome opposite the viewpoint, but still high on the mountain, there was a rest area where the loop at the end of the road started. Across the road from an outhouse was a decent place to park. A couple of other vehicles were parked here already, but there was still room for the G6. It was getting late. Why not? Loopster could spend the night on Midnight Dome!

Didn’t take long to get settled in. The rain started half an hour later.