Tag: Yukon

Decoeli, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-9-16)

Day 11 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

No matter what hour of the night Lupe woke up, there was light in the northern sky.  Twilight moved slowly around the horizon, but never completely disappeared.  Lupe was N, as far N as she had ever been in her life.  Beyond huge, dark Kluane Lake, a line of mysterious unknown mountains marched away to the Arctic.  It all seemed surreal, but Lupe really was here, in the fabled Yukon!

Two days ago, Lupe had climbed her first peak in the Yukon, King’s Throne Peak (6,529 ft.) in Kluane National Park.  It had been a long, hard climb in powerful, swirling winds, but Lupe had made it to the top.  She had been rewarded with spectacular views of Kathleen Lake, Louise Lake and mountains of the Saint Elias range.

From King’s Throne Peak, Lupe had seen another peak off to the NW, the mountain she would attempt to climb today – Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.).  If Lupe could reach the summit of Decoeli, it was possible she would get to see the highest mountain in Canada, Mount Logan (19,541 ft.), far off to the WSW!

At some point, the long twilight became a long dawn, as the sun started sneaking back up toward the horizon again.  Twenty minutes after the sun finally appeared (6:30 AM, 39°F), Lupe was at the long, paved pullout on the W side of the Alaska Highway that serves as the trailhead for the trek to Decoeli.  No one else was here.  The G6 was alone in the huge parking area.

At 7:23 AM, all was ready.  Lupe and SPHP left the pullout heading S to a cairn marking the start of the route to Decoeli.  Nearby an old jeep trail headed SW into a forest of stunted trees and tall soapberry bushes.  Lupe and SPHP followed the jeep trail, which soon met another similar road coming from the E.  Lupe took the new road W.  Mount Decoeli was in sight up ahead.

Mount Decoeli from along the jeep trail. Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.
Mount Decoeli from along the jeep trail. Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.

About a kilometer from the Alaska Highway, the road ended at Summit Creek.  From here, Lupe’s route followed Summit Creek upstream.  The creek led Lupe toward a still unseen rock glacier S of Mount Decoeli.

Lupe reaches Summit Creek at the end of the road. From here, Lupe followed the creek upstream toward a still unseen rock glacier at the base of the snow streaked mountain on the L. Lupe's objective, the summit of Decoeli, is seen on the R. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe reaches Summit Creek at the end of the road. From here, Lupe followed the creek upstream toward a still unseen rock glacier at the base of the snow streaked mountain on the L. Lupe’s objective, the summit of Decoeli, is seen on the R. Photo looks WSW.

Summit Creek was running low, but not low enough for SPHP to cross without getting wet feet.  Lupe and SPHP stayed on the S side of the creek for as long as possible.  It was generally easiest to simply travel right up the creek bed.  However, Summit Creek often ran right along the S bank of the stream channel, forcing Lupe and SPHP up into the bushes above the bank.

At first, there were usually some pretty decent trails to follow through the brush, but as Lupe got farther and farther upstream, these trails deteriorated, becoming hard to find and follow.  The jungle of bushes was so dense, it was almost impossible to make any headway where there wasn’t some kind of path.

Being in the tall bushes made SPHP increasingly nervous.  Nothing more than a few feet away was in view.  With the stream babbling along close by, it wasn’t easy to hear anything else.  SPHP kept up a lively, loud conversation with Lupe, counting on Lupe to give some warning if she smelled bears in the area.

After being repeatedly forced up into the jungle, SPHP finally decided enough was enough!  Lupe and SPHP forded Summit Creek, and stayed out in the open on the wide, rocky creek bed.

Of course, fording the stream meant SPHP’s feet were now soaking wet.  They stayed that way.  Summit Creek kept insisting upon flowing back and forth all the way from one side of the stream channel to the other, so Lupe and SPHP had to keep crossing the creek.  Nevertheless, Lupe’s upstream progress was much faster out on the rocks.  Furthermore, if any bears were in the area, at least out on the creek bed they could be seen well before coming right up on them.

After a long trek, Lupe could see the rock glacier S of Decoeli up ahead.

The rock glacier is now in view below the snow-streaked mountain up ahead. Photo looks WSW.
The rock glacier is now in view below the snow-streaked mountain up ahead. Photo looks WSW.

By the time Lupe reached the toe of the rock glacier, the dense jungle of bushes on the banks of Summit Creek was gone.  Lupe left the creek bed to start climbing the green, mossy slope on the N bank.  A trail showed others had taken this route before.  Lupe liked being out on the spongy, mossy slope a lot better than being down on the rocky stream bed.

Lupe nears the toe of the rock glacier. About the time she reached it, she left the creek bed to follow a trail up the mossy slope on the R. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe nears the toe of the rock glacier. About the time she reached it, she left the creek bed to follow a trail up the mossy slope on the R. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe greatly preferred being on this spongy, mossy ground. She would eventually climb from the little knob seen on the ridgeline at (Center), up to the summit of Mount Decoeli on the R. Photo looks NW.
Lupe greatly preferred being on this spongy, mossy ground. She would eventually climb from the little knob seen on the ridgeline at (Center), up to the summit of Mount Decoeli on the R. Photo looks NW.
Lupe had already gained a fair amount of elevation on the long, gentle trek up Summit Creek to the rock glacier. Now that she had left the creek bed, though, things were about to get a lot steeper! Photo looks NW.

Only a few minutes after Lupe left the creek bed, SPHP heard voices.  Looking back, two people and a big brown dog were in sight not too far away.  They were moving fast, coming up the creek bed, just like Lupe and SPHP had.

Lupe’s route was much steeper up on the green, spongy ground, than it had been down by Summit Creek.  Rather than turn NW directly up the steep slope, it seemed best to follow the trail W for a little while making a more gradual climb.  Lupe had already crossed a big ravine and gained a fair amount of elevation above the rock glacier, by the time the two hikers and their dog overtook SPHP.

Two hikers and their big brown dog overtook SPHP near this point. Photo looks SW over the rock glacier.
Two hikers and their big brown dog overtook SPHP near this point. Photo looks SW over the rock glacier.

The two hikers were Milo and Ben, from Smithers, British Columbia, with their dog, Lucca.  Lucca was bigger than Lupe, and not too sociable.  Lucca growled menacingly.  Lupe wisely kept her distance.  Milo, Ben and SPHP had a brief, friendly conversation.

Had Lupe and SPHP seen the grizzly bear?  Uh, no.  What grizzly bear?  Where?  Milo and Ben said they had come across a huge, steaming, fresh grizzly scat at the junction of the two roads leading to Summit Creek.  Shortly after that, they saw the grizzly.  Fortunately, it just ambled off into the bushes where they lost sight of it.

SPHP was certain that a giant steaming bear scat hadn’t been at the road intersection when Lupe passed by.  Even if SPHP hadn’t noticed it, Lupe certainly would have!  The bear must have been fairly close by, though, for it to come through before Milo and Ben showed up.  Yeah, avoiding the bushes, and staying out on the rocks on the wide Summit Creek channel was definitely the way to go on the way back!

All resumed the climb up Decoeli.  Milo, Ben and Luca were soon well ahead of Lupe and SPHP.  Everyone had turned NW going directly up the steep slope.  For a little way farther, the ground was still covered with nice spongy, green plants.  Pretty soon, though, Lupe reached rocky ground again.  From here on, Lupe faced a long, steep climb up very loose scree mixed with occasional large rocks.

Lupe reaches the scree. She isn't to the steepest part of the climb quite yet. Worryingly, a cloud had appeared, and now clung to the summit of Decoeli. Photo looks NW.
Lupe reaches the scree. She isn’t to the steepest part of the climb quite yet. Worryingly, a cloud had appeared, and now clung to the summit of Decoeli. Photo looks NW.
Lupe on her way up Decoeli. She went over the orange-tan colored knob beyond her, and then climbed toward the saddle seen L of Center on the ridge. Photo looks NW.

Although most of the sky was clear, a worrisome cloud formed and grew around the summit of Decoeli.  It hung around for a while, but eventually blew away to the E.  In the meantime, Lupe was making steady progress up Decoeli.  She was now approaching the most challenging part of the climb.

Lupe and SPHP reached a long, incredibly steep, scree slope.  The climb became rather unnerving.  Virtually everything was loose.  With each step up, the mountain gave way.  Rocks slid and careened down the mountain from under SPHP’s feet.  Now and then, entire areas began to slide, taking SPHP sliding back down, too, before stabilizing.  Nothing wanted to hold.  It was like trying to navigate a river of rock flowing in the opposite direction.

Most of the few large rocks on the slope were loose, too.  SPHP avoided coming up directly below them.  Even Lupe was causing showers of rocks to tumble, sometimes bounding hundreds of feet down the mountain.  It was dangerous for Lupe and SPHP to be directly above or below each other, for fear of the projectiles being released from above.

Lupe on the scary steep scree slope. The American Dingo was doing fine. She was heading for the saddle just L of Center. Photo looks NW.
Lupe on the scary steep scree slope. The American Dingo was doing fine. She was heading for the saddle just L of Center. Photo looks NW.

Lupe headed up toward large rock formations along the ridge to the WNW.  She gained elevation relentlessly.  The view back down the precipitous scree slope toward the rock glacier was tremendous.  Lupe was as calm as ever.  SPHP, however, found it better not to look down too long upon the dizzying scene.

Lupe nears the first big rock formation. No wonder the Carolina Dog was so calm on this steep scree slope – she was keeping her eyes closed! Photo looks WNW.

Lupe reached the top of the first big rock formation.  On a small area of relatively level terra firma, Lupe and SPHP took a break.  At Summit Creek, the air had been calm, but up here a cool breeze was blowing.  The views were already fantastic, even though Lupe still had a considerable climb ahead.  Lupe and SPHP relaxed for 10 minutes, recovering from the ordeal on the treacherous scree slope.

Lupe at the first rock formation above the treacherous scree slope. Photo looks S toward the rock glacier, now many hundreds of feet below.
Lupe at the first rock formation above the treacherous scree slope. Photo looks S toward the rock glacier, now many hundreds of feet below.

Lupe was now on the ridge that had been visible from below.  Another, longer ridge was in view off to the W.  The longer ridge looked like it might very well have been a considerably easier route up.  Perhaps Lupe should have stayed down near the rock glacier longer, following it farther SW before turning N to start her climb.  Maybe she should take that ridge on the way back down?

The long, low ridge seen beyond Lupe would have been a much easier route up Decoeli. To get to it, Lupe would have had to follow the rock glacier farther SW before turning N to start her climb. Photo looks W.
The long, low ridge seen beyond Lupe would have been a much easier route up Decoeli. To get to it, Lupe would have had to follow the rock glacier farther SW before turning N to start her climb. Photo looks W.

Off to the NW, SPHP saw another climber!  He was at about Lupe’s level.  Apparently, he had come up somewhere along that longer ridge, thereby avoiding the super steep, scree slope.  This new climber also saw SPHP, and waved.  SPHP waved back.  No doubt, Lupe would get to meet him at the top of the mountain.

Lupe continued her climb up Decoeli.  She was now traveling up the ridgeline, no longer on the scree slope.  The ridge was still very rocky, and quite steep, but the rocks were more stable than before.  Soon, Lupe came to another rock formation where there was a small patch of level ground.

Lupe reaches a 2nd rock formation along the ridgeline. There was a little level ground here, but Lupe still faced a fairly long climb to reach the top of Decoeli. Photo looks NW.
Lupe reaches a 2nd rock formation along the ridgeline. There was a little level ground here, but Lupe still faced a fairly long climb to reach the top of Decoeli. Photo looks NW.

Lupe was getting closer to the top of Decoeli.  She still had to gain hundreds of feet of elevation, but the nature of the climb was changing.  The slope ahead, while still steep, was broader and covered with talus.  The large rocks were much more stable.  Projectiles were no longer being released with every step.

Lupe and SPHP toiled upward.  A cold W wind was blowing.  The sky overhead was a clear, brilliant blue.  The slope diminished.  A weather vane, spinning rapidly, came into view.  Beyond it, a silver metal shack perched atop the mountain.  Milo, Ben and the new climber were all there, engaged in conversation.  Weary, Lucca had collapsed on the rocks.  She didn’t stir at all, as Lupe went by.

After gaining nearly 4,400 ft. of elevation, Lupe had made it to the top of Decoeli (7,650 ft.)!  The views were fantastic, but disappointingly, off to the WSW, there were clouds in the direction where Mount Logan should be.  High, snowy peaks were partially in view, but many summits were not.

Far to the WSW, partially shrouded by clouds, were giant snowy peaks of the Saint Elias range. This photo was taken as Lupe arrived at the summit of Decoeli. Even a partial view was a stirring sight! SPHP wondered if Lupe was gazing upon Mount Logan, the highest peak in all of Canada, among the distant giants she could see? Photo taken with the telephoto lens.
Far to the WSW, partially shrouded by clouds, were giant snowy peaks of the Saint Elias range. This photo was taken as Lupe arrived at the summit of Decoeli. Even a partial view was a stirring sight! SPHP wondered if Lupe was gazing upon Mount Logan, the highest peak in all of Canada, among the distant giants she could see? Photo taken with the telephoto lens.
Lupe on top of Decoeli! Photo looks S.
Lupe on top of Decoeli! Photo looks S.
The view toward Haines Junction. Photo looks SE.
The view toward Haines Junction. Photo looks SE.
Milo and Ben chat with Richard Baker. Poor, exhausted Lucca was passed out on the rocks. Photo looks WNW.
Milo and Ben chat with Richard Baker. Poor, exhausted Lucca was passed out on the rocks. Photo looks WNW.

After a few minutes gazing at the amazing views, Lupe and SPHP went to see Ben, Milo, and Lucca and meet the other climber.  He was Richard Baker, owner of a seasonal window cleaning business in Tucson, Arizona.  Richard was quite animated, and busy expounding upon his philosophy of life among other topics.

Milo and Ben were telling the tale of the grizzly bear.  Richard couldn’t believe he hadn’t seen the bear scat, or noticed the grizzly.  He is normally very wary in bear country, and was well-equipped with bear spray and other protective devices.

Milo and Ben were both wearing shorts, and feeling a bit uncomfortable in the cold breeze.  Since they intended to start back down soon, it was time for a photo op with them at the summit cairn.  Milo said they had just built the cairn higher while Lupe was coming up Decoeli, which explained it’s magnificently balanced slender height.

Ben (L) and Milo (R) at the newly improved Decoeli summit cairn with their dog, Lucca, and Lupe. Ben is 16, and in school. Milo is 50, and works in the lumber industry. They were all from Smithers, British Columbia. They had been climbing mountains on 5 of the past 7 days. Like Lupe, they had also been to King's Throne. Photo looks S.
Ben (L) and Milo (R) at the newly improved Decoeli summit cairn with their dog, Lucca, and Lupe. Ben is 16, and in school. Milo is 50, and works in the lumber industry. They were all from Smithers, British Columbia. They had been climbing mountains on 5 of the past 7 days. Like Lupe, they had also been to King’s Throne. Photo looks S.

Spurred on by the cold wind, Milo, Ben and Lucca started down Decoeli.  Lupe did not see them again.  Richard, Lupe and SPHP were in no hurry to leave.  Richard and SPHP chatted while admiring the views.  Gradually, the clouds were lifting in the W!  Many towering ice-clad mountains were in sight.  Richard shared his binoculars with SPHP.

Both Richard and SPHP wondered whether or not Mount Logan was in sight, and if so, which giant peak it might be.  Richard thought it was one farther to the N than SPHP believed.  In truth, neither Richard nor SPHP really knew, but it was fun to speculate.  It remained a pretty good bet that Lupe was seeing Mount Logan somewhere over there!

Lupe scans distant giants of snow and ice from Decoeli. Somewhere over there was Mount Logan, the highest peak in all of Canada, and 2nd highest peak in North America! SPHP believes Lupe did see Mount Logan, even though neither Richard nor SPHP knew exactly which peak was it. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe scans distant giants of snow and ice from Decoeli. Somewhere over there was Mount Logan, the highest peak in all of Canada, and 2nd highest peak in North America! SPHP believes Lupe did see Mount Logan, even though neither Richard nor SPHP knew exactly which peak was it. Photo looks WSW.
SPHP believes the highest mountain at Center is Mount Cairns (9,186 ft.). Photo looks WNW.
SPHP believes the highest mountain at Center is Mount Cairns (9,186 ft.). Photo looks WNW.
Looking SE from Decoeli. Two large lakes are seen faintly on the L. Kathleen Lake is the closest. Dezadeash Lake is the more distant. The long slope rising to the R from between them is the NE ridge that Lupe climbed 2 days earlier to reach the summit of King's Throne (6,529 ft.), which is barely in view.
Looking SE from Decoeli. Two large lakes are seen faintly on the L. Kathleen Lake is the closest. Dezadeash Lake is the more distant. The long slope rising to the R from between them is the NE ridge that Lupe climbed 2 days earlier to reach the summit of King’s Throne (6,529 ft.), which is barely in view.
Kluane Lake from Decoeli. Photo looks NW.
Kluane Lake from Decoeli. Photo looks NW.
Gradually, the clouds to the W lifted, allowing a better view of the stunning, distant peaks of the Saint Elias range. Neither Richard nor SPHP knew the names of any of them, but nevertheless, they were an inspiring sight! Photo looks W.
Gradually, the clouds to the W lifted, allowing a better view of the stunning, distant peaks of the Saint Elias range. Neither Richard nor SPHP knew the names of any of them, but nevertheless, they were an inspiring sight! Photo looks W.
A world of snow and ice. Was that huge snowy ramp on the R, Mt. Logan? It was SPHP's favorite candidate. It would be fun to know the truth! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.
A world of snow and ice. Was that huge snowy ramp on the R, Mt. Logan? It was SPHP’s favorite candidate. It would be fun to know the truth! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.
Mount Logan? No one knew. It's some grand and massive peak, for certain! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.
Mount Logan? No one knew. It’s some grand and massive peak, for certain! Photo looks WSW using the telephoto lens.
More spectacular high peaks. Photo looks W.
More spectacular high peaks. Photo looks W.
A lofty white peak R of Center looks almost made of clouds. But what's that slope on the L? It was hard to tell if it was a cloud or part of some colossal mountain. Photo looks W.
A lofty white peak R of Center looks almost made of clouds. But what’s that slope on the L? It was hard to tell if it was a cloud or part of some colossal mountain. Photo looks W.

Richard and SPHP spent so long taking turns looking through the binoculars, that Lupe became a bit bored with it all.  She was tired of standing around, and disliked the cold wind.  Lupe had water, some Taste of the Wild, and curled up on as flat a spot as she could find.  SPHP covered her with a jacket to help her keep warm.

Richard Baker on Decoeli. Richard was quite animated and friendly. He shared his binoculars and philosophy with SPHP. Richard’s window cleaning business in Tucson, AZ is seasonal enough to permit him time to travel and climb mountains part of the year.

After Lupe and SPHP had been at the summit for 50 minutes, Richard announced that he was ready to head down.  Lupe and SPHP remained on top of Decoeli alone a little longer for a last look around.  The views remained simply astounding!  Climbing Decoeli had been a challenging, yet magnificently rewarding experience.

Lupe not far from the Decoeli summit cairn for the last time. Photo looks S.
Lupe not far from the Decoeli summit cairn for the last time. Photo looks S.
The best route down Decoeli passes to the R of the small prominence seen L of Center overlooking the rock glacier. Photo looks S..
Richard Baker starts down Decoeli. Mount Cairnes is in view at Center. Photo looks WNW.
Richard Baker starts down Decoeli. Mount Cairnes is in view at Center. Photo looks WNW.

Sadly, it was time to move on.  Lupe and SPHP set off following Richard down the mountain.  This time, Lupe stayed on the longer ridge going SSW.  The first part of the descent down the talus slope was still quite steep and slow, but by staying on the SSW ridge, Lupe was able to avoid having to go down the treacherous scree slope to the SE where she and SPHP had come up.

Richard was leading the way, taking the same long SSW ridge.  Even this route was steep enough so SPHP had to be careful not to send rocks bounding down the mountain toward him.  Several times SPHP had to shout a warning.

The SSW ridge led down toward a wide saddle. The rock glacier Lupe would eventually have to turn toward is out of sight farther down to the L. Although this route wasn't as difficult as the scree slope Lupe and SPHP climbed going up, it was still plenty steep. Richard can be seen ahead. SPHP had to be careful not to send loose rocks bounding down the mountain at him. Photo looks SSW.
The SSW ridge led down toward a wide saddle. The rock glacier Lupe would eventually have to turn toward is out of sight farther down to the L. Although this route wasn’t as difficult as the scree slope Lupe and SPHP climbed going up, it was still plenty steep. Richard can be seen ahead. SPHP had to be careful not to send loose rocks bounding down the mountain at him. Photo looks SSW.
Unnamed peaks beyond the saddle SSW of Decoeli. Photo looks SSW.
Unnamed peaks beyond the saddle SSW of Decoeli. Photo looks SSW.

Partly out of fear of rocks hurtling down the mountain, Richard stopped off to the side long enough to let Lupe and SPHP catch up.  While climbing Decoeli, Richard had originally come up from the SE to reach this broad, gentler slope on the long SSW ridge.  He had also had to climb up a steep, scree slope on the way, but not for nearly as far as Lupe.

Ahead was a small prominence overlooking the rock glacier to the S.  The question was whether to start down to the SE now, or circle around the W side of the prominence?  After a little discussion and scouting around, it was decided to go the long way around the W side.  There were numerous sheep trails Lupe could follow in this area.

Going down around the prominence overlooking the rock glacier. The top of the prominence is out of sight up the L slope. Richard leads the way, while Lupe wonders what's keeping SPHP? The rock glacier is in view ahead. Photo looks SSE.
Going down around the prominence overlooking the rock glacier. The top of the prominence is out of sight up the L slope. Richard leads the way, while Lupe wonders what’s keeping SPHP? The rock glacier is in view ahead. Photo looks SSE.
Looking SSE at the mountains beyond the rock glacier. It's possible the more distant peak on the L is Mount Archibald (8,491 ft.), but SPHP isn't certain.
Looking SSE at the mountains beyond the rock glacier. It’s possible the more distant peak on the L is Mount Archibald (8,491 ft.), but SPHP isn’t certain.
Lupe on her way down Decoeli. Photo looks N.

Eventually, Lupe, Richard and SPHP all arrived down at the rock glacier.  Up close, it was possible to see there really was melting snow and glacial ice under all the rock.

Lupe down by the rock glacier.
Lupe down by the rock glacier.

Richard, Lupe and SPHP all started the journey NE toward the rock glacier’s toe.  The terrain along the NW side of the glacier was often rough and broken.  After staying near the glacier’s edge for a while, SPHP tried leading Lupe up a steep bank to a green, spongy area overlooking the glacier.  This maneuver did not help.  Lupe quickly arrived at a ravine leading right back down to the glacier.

Richard had stayed down by the rock glacier.  He forged ahead, while Lupe and SPHP navigated the ravine.  By the time Lupe reached the toe of the glacier, Richard was out of sight somewhere down Summit Creek.

Lupe and SPHP made great progress going down the wide, rock-strewn Summit Creek channel.  This time, SPHP didn’t hesitate to simply ford the creek whenever necessary.  Every now and then, Lupe caught sight of Richard far ahead.  The long trek down the creek bed was actually quite easy and fun.  Lupe and SPHP enjoyed the beautiful long Yukon evening.

Near the start of the jeep trail, Lupe and SPHP caught up with Richard again.  Richard and SPHP chatted as Lupe trotted along the road.  Richard expounded upon grizzly bears.  He was carrying bear spray and other anti-bear devices to deal with them.  He talked about how all these tall bushes with small red berries growing along the road were soapberry bushes, and how bears love soapberries!

At the intersection where the road forked, there it was, just like Milo and Ben had said.  A huge grizzly bear scat full of soapberries was right there at the intersection.  Richard still couldn’t believe he hadn’t seen it in the morning!

The sun was getting low when Lupe reached the G6.  She’d had a long, long day.  Without the slightest hesitation, she hopped into the G6.  Lupe curled up on her blankets and pillows, looking forward to a soft, comfy snooze.  For more than an hour outside, Richard and SPHP conversed about Decoeli, bears, and other things.  Richard even offered SPHP a free canister of bear spray.  SPHP thanked him, but declined.

When Richard said good-bye and drove off, SPHP joined Lupe in the G6.  The sun was about to set.  What a fantastic, memorable day it had been!  Lupe had made it to the top of Decoeli.  She had almost certainly seen Mount Logan, the highest mountain in all of Canada.

Lupe and SPHP drove N on the Alaska Highway on the way to Kluane Lake, as the still glowing evening faded slowly from the wild Yukon mountains and sky.

Half moon over mountains NW of Decoeli.
Half moon over mountains NW of Decoeli.
Lupe's long, fabulous Day of Decoeli draws to a close.
Lupe’s long, fabulous Day of Decoeli draws to a close.
Sunset, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-9-16
Sunset, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-9-16

Note: The trailhead for Mount Decoeli is a long, paved pullout 12.5 miles N of Haines Junction on the W side of the Alaska Highway.  (1.4 miles N of the Spruce Beetle trailhead.) Decoeli is near, but not actually in, Kluane National Park.  The route up is not maintained or signed in any manner.  There is no formal trail.  Elevation gain is a bit under 4,400 feet, or 1330 meters.  Distance is roughly 11 miles or 18 km round trip.

A free description of the route up Decoeli is available from visitor centers near Haines Junction and Kluane Lake.

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Kluane Lake & Shepherd’s Knoll in the Slims River Valley, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-8-16)

Day 10 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

The sky was overcast, but it wasn’t raining.  What time was it?  Good grief!  Almost 9:30 AM already!  SPHP came to.  Lupe was looking way perkier than SPHP.  Her successful climb up King’s Throne yesterday only seemed to have enlivened her.  SPHP on the other hand … well, it didn’t matter, today needed to be a rest day, anyway.

Lupe and SPHP got water and pitched garbage at the campground.  SPHP straightened up the G6.  There were a few squirrels around, so Lupe was happy.  When all was back in order again, Lupe and SPHP drove down to see Kathleen Lake.  A crew was taking down big tents that had been set up for some youth group over the weekend.  The tents had been flapping noisily in the wind much of the night.

King’s Throne Peak (6,529 ft.) was across the bay.  SPHP had been hoping for a clear, bright shot of Lupe at shining blue Kathleen Lake with mighty King’s Throne illuminated by morning sun in the background, but it wasn’t going to happen.  The top of the mountain was scraping clouds.  There wasn’t a ray of sunshine anywhere.  Kathleen Lake looked green, instead of the brilliant blue it had appeared only yesterday.

Lupe at Kathleen Lake with King's Throne Peak in the background. Lupe had been to the summit yesterday! Photo looks SW.
Lupe at Kathleen Lake with King’s Throne Peak in the background. Lupe had been to the summit yesterday! Photo looks SW.

There wasn’t a real plan for the day.  Lupe and SPHP drove to Haines Junction.  SPHP managed to get a shower at a motel.  Much better!  The skies were clearing.  Maybe it was time to head N and see what Lupe’s options were?  On the way N, Lupe went by Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.).

Mount Decoeli (R) from the Alaska Highway NW of Haines Junction. Photo looks WNW.
Mount Decoeli (R) from the Alaska Highway NW of Haines Junction. Photo looks WNW.

SPHP had hopes that Lupe would be able to climb Decoeli, but not today.  It was too much for today, right after King’s Throne.  Maybe it wasn’t a bad idea to check out the trailhead, though?  SPHP found the trailhead on a hill more than 10 miles N of Haines Junction.  The trailhead was really just a big paved pullout on the W side of the Alaska Highway.  There was no sign, no information, nothing except free parking.

Mount Decoeli from the Alaska Highway, not far from the long paved pullout that serves as a trailhead. Photo looks W.
Mount Decoeli from the Alaska Highway, not far from the long paved pullout that serves as a trailhead. Photo looks W.

It seemed like a good idea to stop by the Tachal Dhal visitor center for information.  SPHP knew the visitor center was located near the S end of Kluane Lake, a huge lake E of the Saint Elias range.  Lupe and SPHP continued N on the Alaska Highway.  Soon the lake could be seen ahead, flanked by mountains to the W.

Lupe near the Alaska Highway. Kluane Lake is in view! Photo looks NNW.
Lupe near the Alaska Highway. Kluane Lake is in view! Photo looks NNW.

Kluane Lake was huge and gorgeous!  Before even going to the visitor center, Lupe and SPHP stopped at a large pullout along the shore at the S end of the lake.

Lupe in Kluane Lake. She reported that the water was clear, cold, and good to drink. The weather, breezy and bright. Photo looks N.
Lupe in Kluane Lake. She reported that the water was clear, cold, and good to drink. The weather, breezy and bright. Photo looks N.

Kluane Lake made a huge impression.  To the N, the cold, blue waters stretched to the horizon like a Yukon sea.  E of the lake, desolate unknown peaks marched N toward the Arctic until they vanished from view.  NW across the lake was scenic Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft.), a peak SPHP hoped Lupe might be able to climb.  To the W was the wide, flat Slims River valley.  Strange clouds of dust blew from the valley toward Kluane Lake.

Blowing dust was unexpected and puzzling.  Was the Alaska Highway gravel over there?  SPHP figured the dust must be coming from traffic on the Alaska Highway or road construction.  Later, it became evident the dust was being blown up by winds sweeping over dried out mud flats along the Slims River.

Clouds of dust were rising up from the Slims River valley, close to where the Tachal Dhal visitor center is located. At first, SPHP thought traffic or road construction was the cause. It turned out to be dust blown from dried out mud flats along the Slims River. Photo looks W.

After Lupe had a chance to wade in Kluane Lake and have a refreshing drink of Yukon water, Lupe and SPHP went on to the Tachal Dahl visitor center.  The visitor center was located in a small building in the Slims River Valley W of both Kluane Lake and the Alaska Highway.  SPHP went in to inquire about trails in the area.

There was bad news for Lupe about the trail to Sheep Mountain.  It was temporarily closed due to recent grizzly bear activity.  SPHP chatted with a ranger about a much longer trail up the Slims River Valley to the Kaskawulsh Glacier.  The best glacier viewpoint was from Observation Mountain (6,824 ft.), but getting there would involve a 3 day/2 night backpacking trip and major stream fords.

As a nice day hike, the ranger suggested the Bullion Plateau trail.  The Bullion Plateau sounded interesting, but it was already afternoon and the trail was too long to consider today.  How about something short and easy?  Right away, the ranger suggested Shepherd’s Knoll, a hill not too far away up the Slims River valley.  A very short trail goes to the top of Shepherd’s Knoll where there are views both up the valley and back toward Kluane Lake.  It sounded perfect!

A little N on the Alaska Highway from the turn to the Tachal Dhal visitor center, another gravel road leaves the highway.  This road goes 2.6 km up the Slims River valley to the Tachal Dahl trailhead.  Lupe left for Shepherd’s Knoll from here.  Lupe and SPHP started out on the main trail, which ultimately goes to the Kaskawulsh Glacier.  The trail began as an old roadbed going through a forest.

It didn’t take Lupe long, maybe 15 minutes, to reach an intersection with the Sheep Creek trail.  A few hundred feet farther along, on the valley side of the main trail, Lupe found the side trail to Shepherd’s Knoll.

Lupe near the start of the Shepherd's Knoll trail. Photo looks SE.
Lupe near the start of the Shepherd’s Knoll trail. Photo looks SE.

The Shepherd’s Knoll trail wasn’t long at all.  It climbed partway up a small hill and vanished.  Lupe continued on higher up the hill, checking out the views from different vantage points along her way.

Lupe climbing Shepherd's Knoll. The trail soon vanished, but Lupe continued up, checking out the views from various vantage points along the way. Photo looks NE.
Lupe climbing Shepherd’s Knoll. The trail soon vanished, but Lupe continued up, checking out the views from various vantage points along the way. Photo looks NE.

For as little effort as it took for Lupe to get here, the views from Shepherd’s Knoll were impressive.

Looking SW up the Slims River valley.
Looking SW up the Slims River valley.
Dust blows down the Slims River valley toward Kluane Lake. Photo looks E.
Dust blows down the Slims River valley toward Kluane Lake. Photo looks E.
Looking S across the Slims River valley from Shepherd’s Knoll.
A closer look at the snow-capped mountain across the valley using the telephoto lens.
A closer look at the snow-capped mountain across the valley using the telephoto lens.
The beautiful Slims River valley. Photo looks SSW.
The beautiful Slims River valley. Photo looks SSW.
SPHP believes the high hill in the distance is part of the Bullion Plateau. Photo looks WNW.
The Bullion Plateau? It seemed to be in the right direction. Photo looks WNW.
The Bullion Plateau? It seemed to be in the right direction. Photo looks WNW.
A wider view of the Bullion Plateau vicinity.
A wider view of the Bullion Plateau vicinity.

Even though getting to Shepherd’s Knoll hadn’t taken Lupe very far up the Slims River valley, it was certainly a worthwhile easy trek.  Lupe would have liked to do much more exploring in the Slims River area, but this was a rest day, and it was starting to get late.  Lupe and SPHP returned to the Tachal Dahl trailhead.

No one had been at the trailhead before, but now there were nearly a dozen people here.  They had just returned from an overnight backpacking trip to the Kaskawulsh Glacier.  A campground near the glacier was about as far as most of them had made it.  Only one person had succeeded in reaching the top of Observation Mountain.  The trip was more strenuous than they’d anticipated.

Lupe and SPHP went back to Kluane Lake, but this time a bit farther N along the W side of the lake.  A forested hill projected partway into the lake from mud flats deposited by the Slims River.  Silt is gradually filling in this end of the lake.

Over time, silt and mud deposited by the Slims River will completely surround the forested hill seen here by filling in adjacent portions of Kluane Lake. Photo looks ESE.
Over time, silt and mud deposited by the Slims River will completely surround the forested hill seen here by filling in adjacent portions of Kluane Lake. Photo looks ESE.

Evening was coming.  The views from the pullout along the S shore of Kluane Lake earlier in the day had been so beautiful that Lupe and SPHP returned to enjoy the evening there.

Lupe spent a few happy hours exploring the shore of Kluane Lake, while SPHP watched the ancient dust blow, and the waves roll in.

Sheep Mountain from mud flats at the far SW end of Kluane Lake. Photo looks NNW.
Sheep Mountain from mud flats at the far SW end of Kluane Lake. Photo looks NNW.
Lupe along the S shore of Kluane Lake the evening of 8-8-16. Photo looks W.
Lupe along the S shore of Kluane Lake the evening of 8-8-16. Photo looks W.
Happy times at Kluane Lake in the Yukon. Photo looks E.
Happy times at Kluane Lake in the Yukon. Photo looks E.
Evening at Kluane Lake, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-8-16.
Evening at Kluane Lake, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-8-16.

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Kings Throne, Kluane National Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-7-16)

Days 8 and 9 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

That guy at the Bell 1 rest area yesterday evening had been right.  There were bears in these woods!  As Lupe and SPHP rolled N along Cassiar Highway No. 37 early on August 6th, Lupe saw 7 bears near the road in a span of 1.5 hours.  Each bear was cause for a ferocious barkfest – from the safety of the G6, of course – as Lupe sped on by.

Day 8 of Lupe’s summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation was going to be a travel day.  SPHP drove.  Lupe looked out the window watching for wildlife.  After the bears, though, no wildlife appeared.  Lupe got bored and snoozed.

Cassiar Highway No. 37 went past beautiful mountains and lakes.  It crossed scenic rivers.  The forest never ended.  Even now, in 2016, with 7.5 billion people on the planet, Lupe really was in an unbelievably vast, uninhabited land.  The narrow strip of highway was the only link to civilization.  Everything else was unspoiled wilderness.  It all hardly seemed possible.  It felt like going back in time.  Columbus may have landed in the Americas almost 524 years ago, but along the Cassiar Highway there were still few visible consequences.

Mehan Lake from the Bell 2 rest stop along the Cassiar Highway. The Cassiar Highway passed many beautiful lakes, some of them far larger than Mehan.
Mehan Lake from the Bell 2 rest stop along the Cassiar Highway. The Cassiar Highway passed many beautiful lakes, some of them far larger than Mehan.

The hours and miles went by.  There was traffic on Cassiar Highway No. 37, more than SPHP expected.  Most of it was big trucks.  Civilization may not have made much of a dent yet, but it is coming soon, even here.

For hundreds of miles, Cassiar Highway No. 37 had been good pavement, but N of the Bell 2 rest stop the road deteriorated.  Rough, broken, patchy pavement appeared.  Stretches of very dusty gravel became common.  N of the tiny community of Dease Lake, the road turned to gravel for a long way.  SPHP feared the Cassiar Highway might be nothing but dust from here on, but Lupe hit pavement again after 25 miles or so.  The worst was over.  Gradually, the Cassiar Highway improved again.

Now and then Lupe and SPHP stopped for short breaks.  At least, they were supposed to be short.  At the Beaver Dam rest stop, SPHP was so weary of driving that 15 minutes of shuteye unintentionally turned into nearly 2 hours of unconsciousness.

On the road again, SPHP felt better.  Unconsciousness has its benefits!  Lupe wasn’t far now from 2 major milestones on her journey.  Suddenly, up ahead, there it was!  A much anticipated sign was up on an embankment near the road.  Lupe just had to stop for this!

Lupe reached the Yukon border on the afternoon of 8-6-16. It was hard to believe she was really here! Photo looks N, of course!
Lupe reached the Yukon border on the afternoon of 8-6-16. It was hard to believe she was really here! Photo looks N, of course!

Lupe had made it to the Yukon!  It was hard to believe she was really here.  A relatively short drive N of the Yukon border brought Lupe to the next big milestone of the day.  Lupe’s long journey on Cassiar Highway No. 37 was over.  She had reached the Alaska Highway!  Lupe and SPHP turned W, heading for Whitehorse.

The afternoon wore on.  It was a long way to Whitehorse, hundreds of miles.  Evening came.  Nearing Teslin Lake, there was a bit of Dingo excitement when Lupe saw her 8th black bear of the day.  Lupe didn’t make it to Whitehorse.  Day 6 ended for Lupe W of Teslin Lake.  Time to stop for the night.

Evening along the Alaska Highway, 8-6-16.
Evening along the Alaska Highway, 8-6-16.
Approaching Teslin Lake.
Approaching Teslin Lake.

The next morning, Lupe did make it to Whitehorse, the capital city of the Yukon.  She didn’t stay long, though.  Lupe was on her way to her first mountain climbing adventure in the Yukon, instead!

Although there had been mountains much of the way along the Alaska Highway, Lupe first caught sight of the higher, more rugged peaks of the Saint Elias Range approaching Haines Junction.

Lupe along the Alaska Highway. Peaks of the Saint Elias Range near Haines Junction are in view ahead. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe along the Alaska Highway. Peaks of the Saint Elias Range near Haines Junction are in view ahead. Photo looks WSW.

At Haines Junction, Lupe and SPHP left the Alaska Highway, turning S on Hwy 3 to Haines.  Lupe wasn’t going all the way to Haines.  Her objective was only 17 miles away now.  About halfway there, SPHP saw a mountain to the SSW resembling a long high wall.  Was that it?  It looked incredibly steep!  SPHP’s heart sank.  Would Lupe be able to climb anything like that?

The realization quickly grew that the N end of the mountain wall really was Lupe’s objective!  Well, there was supposed to be a trail, or at least a route, to the top.  It had taken hours to get here, and was already late in the morning.  No time to second guess things, Lupe would just have to try it and see how things went.

A short drive from a turn off Hwy 3 brought Lupe to the Cottonwood Trailhead.  SPHP parked the G6.  Ten minutes later (10:32 AM, 63°F), Lupe was on the Cottonwood Trail.  The first part of the trail was quite level and followed a road through a shady forest.  Up ahead was Lupe’s mighty objective – King’s Throne Peak (6,529 ft.).

King’s Throne from the Cottonwood Trail. Photo looks SW.
Lupe on the Cottonwood Trail.
To climb King's Throne, Lupe first had to get to the base of the giant cirque in the area shown in the lower R part of this photo. From there, she would follow the steep ridge leading up to the L, before circling back around to the summit on the R via the upper ridgeline. Photo looks SW.
To climb King’s Throne, Lupe first had to get to the base of the giant cirque in the area shown in the lower R part of this photo. From there, she would follow the steep ridge leading up to the L, before circling back around to the summit on the R via the upper ridgeline. Photo looks SW.

About a mile from the trailhead, Lupe came to an intersection.  The Cottonwood Trail headed NW on its way past Kathleen Lake.  It is ultimately part of an 87 km 4-6 day backpacking loop.  Lupe took the King’s Throne trail instead.  The single track trail began to climb steeply.

At first, the trail was switchbacking up through forest, and Lupe couldn’t see much.  Eventually, though, Lupe got above tree line.  The views of Kathleen Lake to the N were already fabulous!

Lupe on the King's Throne trail. Beautiful Kathleen Lake dominates the view to the N.
Lupe on the King’s Throne trail. Beautiful Kathleen Lake dominates the view to the N.
The Cottonwood Trail starts in the forest to the R of the small bay seen on the far side of Kathleen Lake on the R side of this photo. The trail stays in the forest some distance from Kathleen Lake, which was not generally visible from the trail. The smaller long narrow lake seen beyond Kathleen Lake is Lower Kathleen Lake (Center). Beyond it to the L is even smaller Rainbow Lake. Photo looks NNE.
The Cottonwood Trail starts in the forest to the R of the small bay seen on the far side of Kathleen Lake on the R side of this photo. The trail stays in the forest some distance from Kathleen Lake, which was not generally visible from the trail. The smaller long narrow lake seen beyond Kathleen Lake is Lower Kathleen Lake (Center). Beyond it to the L is even smaller Rainbow Lake. Photo looks NNE.

King’s Throne Peak is clearly named for the giant cirque which faces NNE.  The cirque is the seat of the throne, with the high ridges wrapping around it serving as the throne’s arms and back.  It really is pretty easy to imagine the mountain serving as the throne of a titan-sized king.

Evidently the giant cirque is the ultimate destination for many hikers, and they go no farther.  As described in Kluane National Park literature, the King’s Throne trail goes only as far as the cirque.  Elevation gain from Kathleen Lake required to reach the cirque is about 1,800 feet.

Lupe nearing the giant cirque. The steep NE ridge she would have to follow to reach King’s Throne summit is up ahead. Photo looks S.

Down in the forest below, it had been a nice calm day, but as Lupe approached the giant cirque, it was starting to get pretty windy out.  The American Dingo is no great fan of wind, but she had no choice but to put up with it.

Lupe reaches the giant cirque, which is the imaginary seat of King’s Throne. It was annoyingly windy. Photo looks SW.
Just getting to this giant cirque is the ultimate objective of many hikers. Several turned around here while Lupe was in the area, encouraged by the wind to do so. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe and SPHP weren’t the only ones on the King’s Throne trail.  Quite a few other hikers were around.  Some of them turned around at the giant cirque, satisfied with the grand view of Kathleen Lake and being able to say they had hiked King’s Throne trail, which officially ends here.

Of course, Lupe was going onward!  Kluane National Park literature describes the rest of the way up to King’s Throne summit as a “route” rather than a “trail”, because it isn’t officially maintained.  The first part of the route was every bit as good as the official trail had been.  It climbed toward the steep NE ridge of the mountain.

Lupe starts on the “route” to King’s Throne summit. The steep rate of climb the route would soon adopt is evident on the slope ahead. Photo looks SE.
Kathleen Lake from near the start of the "route" part of the trek to the summit. The trail leading to the base of the giant cirque is seen below. Lupe is on her way up to the summit, but hasn't gotten to the steep part of the "route" yet.
Kathleen Lake from near the start of the “route” part of the trek to the summit. The trail leading to the base of the giant cirque is seen below. Lupe is on her way up to the summit, but hasn’t gotten to the steep part of the “route” yet.

When the route reached the steep NE ridge, it turned and worked its way almost straight up it.  For a while there was some grass around.  Later on it was all rock.  The ridgeline became increasingly narrow.  Most of the time, the trail was a bit to the E of the ridgeline.  Off to the W, on the side of the ridge toward the giant cirque, were increasingly fearsome cliffs.

Lupe starts up the route along the NE ridge. Here it was still grassy and not so steep, narrow and rocky. The giant cirque is still in view. Higher up, it was too scary to look over the cliffs in the violent swirling winds to see it. Photo looks SW.
Lupe starts up the route along the NE ridge. Here it was still grassy and not so steep, narrow and rocky. The giant cirque is still in view. Higher up, it was too scary to look over the cliffs in the violent swirling winds to see it. Photo looks SW.
Lupe gaining elevation, but still in the zone where some plants survived. Lupe's goal, the summit of King's Throne, is seen above on the R. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe gaining elevation, but still in the zone where some plants survived. Lupe’s goal, the summit of King’s Throne, is seen above on the R. Photo looks WSW.

The NE ridge was hard going.  The route was either loose rocks or very hard packed soil difficult to maintain traction on.  Hiking poles would have been an enormous help, but SPHP had none.  Even some of the bigger rocks Lupe passed by at certain points were often crumbly, loose and rotten.  Everything had to be tested.

The Carolina Dog had no problems, except for the wind.  She hated it!  As Lupe gained elevation, it swirled more and more violently around the ridgeline.  SPHP joined Lupe on all fours, and virtually crawled up the mountain.  Just trying to stand up and maintain balance was scary.  The wind attacked first from one direction, then suddenly reversed and blew just as strongly from a completely different one.

Lupe in the rocky zone. She would see almost no plants the rest of the way along the route. The big lake in the distance is Dezadeash Lake. Photo looks SE.
Lupe in the rocky zone. She would see almost no plants the rest of the way along the route. The big lake in the distance is Dezadeash Lake. Photo looks SE.

Fortunately, it wasn’t cold out, which would have been unbearable in this wind.  Still, the wind was taking a toll.  People were coming down the mountain.

Most had simply turned around, having decided it wasn’t worth it in this gale.  Among them Lupe saw climbers who had passed SPHP on the way up.  A few groups who had left earlier in the day had succeeded in reaching the summit.  They reported even windier conditions there.  Looking down, climbers who had been gaining on Lupe and SPHP could no longer be seen.  They had turned around, too.

The climb up the long, steep NE ridge seemed endless, but Lupe was gaining ground steadily. The last long stretch of the climb is seen here. Photo looks S.
The climb up the long, steep NE ridge seemed endless, but Lupe was gaining ground steadily. The last long stretch of the climb is seen here. Photo looks S.

Lupe kept climbing.  Finally, a group of four guys appeared coming down the route.  They had foreign accents and seemed very experienced.  They too, reported very windy conditions at the summit, which they had successfully attained.  They were the last people Lupe saw the rest of the day.  Lupe and SPHP were alone on the mountain.

Lupe still had a ways to go up the steep NE ridge.  Lupe pressed on.  At last, she reached the end.  She came upon a broad rocky plain which was almost level by comparison.  The difficult part of the climb was over.  The rest of the way to the summit would be much easier!

Wow, was it ever windy here, though!  SPHP wouldn’t let Lupe get too close to the cliffs above the giant cirque for fear the Carolina Dog would sail right over the edge.  For a few minutes, SPHP could only stand in one place.  Taking a step was nearly impossible.

Lupe on the extremely windy rocky plain she came to at the end of the very steep climb up the NE ridge. The summit of King's Throne Peak is the more distant high point seen on the R. Photo looks W.
Lupe on the extremely windy rocky plain she came to at the end of the very steep climb up the NE ridge. The summit of King’s Throne Peak is the more distant high point seen on the R. Photo looks W.
Kathleen Lake from the edge of the rocky plain above the NE ridge. SPHP wouldn't let Lupe get any closer to the edge than this due to the gale. Photo looks N.
Kathleen Lake from the edge of the rocky plain above the NE ridge. SPHP wouldn’t let Lupe get any closer to the edge than this due to the gale. Photo looks N.

After a few minutes, a slight lull in the wind allowed SPHP to move again.  For a little while, that was how it went.  When the wind blew hardest, SPHP had to stand stock still, ready to crouch, if necessary.  When there was a lull, progress resumed.  Maybe it would be less windy away from the edge of the giant cirque?

It was!  Away from the cliffs, the wind was noticeably weaker.  Lupe and SPHP were on the move again.  Lupe headed W toward the S side of a rounded high point where a saddle led over to the next peak to the S.

To avoid the worst of the wind, Lupe stayed to the L (S) of the near ridge. Cliffs above the giant cirque were on the other side. Photo looks WNW.
To avoid the worst of the wind, Lupe stayed to the L (S) of the near ridge. Cliffs above the giant cirque were on the other side. Photo looks WNW.
The wide valley S of King's Throne Peak on the back side of the throne is seen here on the R. Dezadeash Lake is in the distance. Photo looks SE.
The wide valley S of King’s Throne Peak on the back side of the throne is seen here on the R. Dezadeash Lake is in the distance. Photo looks SE.
The saddle connecting to the next peak S of King's Throne Peak. Photo looks SSW.
The saddle connecting to the next peak S of King’s Throne Peak. Photo looks SSW.

Maybe it was White Dingo Magic, but contrary to reports from climbers who had been here earlier, the wind was getting weaker, not worse!  Lupe worked her way up and over a high point, and turned NW toward the King’s Throne summit.  The reduced wind speed was a welcome relief.

On the high point N of the saddle leading to the peak to the S, Lupe came to this view of the King's Throne summit ahead. Lupe was almost there! Photo looks NW.
On the high point N of the saddle leading to the peak to the S, Lupe came to this view of the King’s Throne summit ahead. Lupe was almost there! Photo looks NW.

Lupe and SPHP were making good time now.  Even before Lupe reached King’s Throne summit, glorious sights came into view to the W.

Glorious sights appeared to the W as Lupe drew near King's Throne Peak's summit. The biggest lake seen here is actually the W end of Kathleen Lake. Beyond it is Louise Lake. Photo looks W.
Glorious sights appeared to the W as Lupe drew near King’s Throne Peak’s summit. The biggest lake seen here is actually the W end of Kathleen Lake. Beyond it is Louise Lake. Photo looks W.
Lupe on the final approach to the King’s Throne Peak summit. Photo looks NNW.

By the time Lupe reached the summit of King’s Throne Peak, the wind had died down to just a breeze.  Lupe and SPHP were free to really enjoy the stupendous views in every direction!

Lupe atop the summit cairn on King's Throne Peak! It was still breezy when Lupe arrived, but nothing like the gale she'd faced coming up. The views were stupendous in every direction! Louise Lake is seen in the huge valley below. Photo looks W.
Lupe atop the summit cairn on King’s Throne Peak! It was still breezy when Lupe arrived, but nothing like the gale she’d faced coming up. The views were stupendous in every direction! Louise Lake is seen in the huge valley below. Photo looks W.
Louis Lake from King's Throne Peak summit. It was hard to believe Lupe was really here, high on this fabulous mountain in remote Kluane National Park in the Yukon! Photo looks W.
Louis Lake from King’s Throne Peak summit. It was hard to believe Lupe was really here, high on this fabulous mountain in remote Kluane National Park in the Yukon! Photo looks W.
Looking SE from the summit. Dezadeash Lake is on the L. Part of Lupe's route up is visible to the R of Lupe, and also along the top of the dark lower ridge on the L.
Looking SE from the summit. Dezadeash Lake is on the L. Part of Lupe’s route up is visible to the R of Lupe, and also along the top of the dark lower ridge on the L.
Far beyond Kathleen and Louise lakes, mysterious towering snow-capped peaks of the Saint Elias Range lurked partially hidden in the clouds. Photo looks W.
Far beyond Kathleen and Louise lakes, mysterious towering snow-capped peaks of the Saint Elias Range lurked partially hidden in the clouds. Photo looks W.
Kathleen Lake from King's Throne Peak. Mount Decoeli is the distant sharp peak seen faintly straight up from the island in Kathleen Lake. Photo looks NW.
Kathleen Lake from King’s Throne Peak. Mount Decoeli is the distant sharp peak seen faintly straight up from the island in Kathleen Lake. Photo looks NW.

On the NE side of the summit, the air was almost calm.  SPHP sat down out of the wind to rest while taking in the magnificent views.  Lupe curled up in SPHP’s lap.  Lupe got petted and praised for bringing SPHP to such a wonderful place.  The Carolina Dog seemed to enjoy every moment.

The W end of Kathleen Lake and Louise Lake again. A small part of Sockeye Lake is visible toward the L beyond Louise Lake. Photo looks W.
The W end of Kathleen Lake and Louise Lake again. A small part of Sockeye Lake is visible toward the L beyond Louise Lake. Photo looks W.
Kathleen Lake. Photo looks NNW.
Kathleen Lake. Photo looks NNW.

One distant peak Lupe could see was of particular interest.  The steep top of Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.) was faintly in view to the NW far beyond Kathleen Lake.  Mount Decoeli was on the short list of peaks in Kluane National Park that SPHP hoped Lupe might be able to climb.

However, Mount Decoeli looked every bit as steep as the NE ridge coming up King’s Throne Peak.  Clearly, Decoeli would be a huge challenge.  SPHP gazed at Decoeli filled with both hope and doubt.  Would Lupe ever be on top of that daunting mountain?

Mount Decoeli is the sharp most distant peak on the R. Decoeli was on the short list of peaks SPHP thought Lupe might be able to climb in Kluane National Park. However, the mountain looked daunting from King's Throne Peak. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.
Mount Decoeli is the sharp most distant peak on the R. Decoeli was on the short list of peaks SPHP thought Lupe might be able to climb in Kluane National Park. However, the mountain looked daunting from King’s Throne Peak. Photo looks NW using the telephoto lens.

Lupe and SPHP lingered at the summit of King’s Throne Peak for more than 45 minutes.  Conditions were great, and the views were awe-inspiring.  Lupe would have stayed much longer, but she had gotten a late morning start, and it had taken a very long time for SPHP to climb, crawl and stagger all the way to the top.

The time came when Lupe had to think about starting down.  She returned to the King’s Throne summit cairn for a final look.  SPHP took another round of photos.  After all the effort expended to get here, it was hard to think about leaving already to face the steep, windy NE ridge again.

Lupe returned to the summit cairn for a final look around. Photo looks SSE.
Lupe returned to the summit cairn for a final look around. Photo looks SSE.
The first part of Lupe's route back is in view below on the lower L. It took her over the rounded hills above the snowbank. Photo looks SSE.
The first part of Lupe’s route back is in view below on the lower L. It took her over the rounded hills above the snowbank. Photo looks SSE.
This photo is a pretty good look at the easy part of the climb up King's Throne Peak along the back of the throne. The upper end of the steep NE ridge is seen on the L. Dezadeash Lake is in the distance. Photo looks SE.
This photo is a pretty good look at the easy part of the climb up King’s Throne Peak along the back of the throne. The upper end of the steep NE ridge is seen on the L. Dezadeash Lake is in the distance. Photo looks SE.
A good deal of the steep NE ridge is in view here. Photo looks ESE.
A good deal of the steep NE ridge is in view here. Photo looks ESE.
Far to the W of King's Throne Peak were mysterious higher peaks of the Saint Elias range. Lupe never got a clear look at them, but what could be seen was most intriguing. Photo looks W using the telephoto lens.
Far to the W of King’s Throne Peak were mysterious higher peaks of the Saint Elias range. Lupe never got a clear look at them, but what could be seen was most intriguing. Photo looks W using the telephoto lens.

The relative calm Lupe experienced on top of King’s Throne summit did not prevail elsewhere, although the wind wasn’t as bad as it had been earlier in the day.  Lupe and SPHP made good time on the route back until reaching the steep NE ridge.

Going down the NE ridge, the wind was still strong and unpredictable.  The terrain was so steep, the footing so unreliable, and the swirling wind so unnerving that SPHP became extraordinarily slow and cautious.  SPHP crawled, slid, and took baby steps down the mountain.  Lupe became so impatient with SPHP, the were-puppy attacked repeatedly to encourage some movement.

This was taking forever!  The sun was long gone.  The creeping Yukon twilight slowly faded.  Yet the sweeping views of the desolate mountains of the far N were chillingly inspiring.  Thousands of feet below, whitecaps could be seen on Kathleen Lake.

Even the official King’s Throne trail below the giant cirque seemed steeper and more difficult than SPHP remembered.  By now SPHP’s toes were all sore from being mashed against the front of the boots for hours.  The painful trek continued.

By the time Lupe was back on the Cottonwood Trail, SPHP was beat.  Amazingly, Lupe was bursting with American Dingo energy.  The dark forest, roaring waves crashing on the unseen shore of Kathleen Lake, and wildly swaying treetops made Lupe wild, too.  Something darted across the trail in the gloom ahead.  A coyote!  Who knew, maybe it was a wolf?  This was the Yukon!  Lupe seemed ready to dash off into the forest to live wild and free, too!

11:07 PM.  The animated American Dingo was finally back at the G6.  SPHP was still mostly alive.  What a day it had been!  Lupe had succeeded in climbing King’s Throne Peak, a feat dreamed of for a long time now.  Despite exhaustion, SPHP was filled with joy.

Congratulations, Loopster!  You did it – all the way to the top!  Well done, sweet puppy!  King’s Throne was amazingly amazing!  And you know what?  Tomorrow you aren’t even going to think about trying another stunt like that again.  Bunny hill, here you come!

Bunnies?  That grabbed Lupe’s attention!  The Carolina Dog was all in favor of Bunny Hill.

Last photo of Lupe on King's Throne Peak summit before she headed down. 8-7-16
Last photo of Lupe on King’s Throne Peak summit before she headed down. 8-7-16

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