Day 36 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
9:00 AM, 54°F, at a pullout near Kilometer 20 of the Dempster Highway – Ugh! So late! Lupe was wide awake, staring out of the G6. She probably had been for a long time. 54°F! No wonder SPHP had slept so well. Comfortably warm for once, instead of the usual Yukon chill. Lupe eagerly dashed out of the G6 as soon as she got the chance, disappearing into the woods nearby.
Cheese and English muffins for breakfast. Loop returned for that. Her right rear paw seemed OK now. Yesterday evening she had been hopping around on 3 legs shortly after getting here. A raw spot in between her pads seemed to be the problem. She must have gotten cut stepping on something sharp. Maybe the antibiotic ointment SPHP applied had actually helped?
As soon as breakfast was over, Lupe and SPHP hit the road traveling N on the Dempster Highway. Loop spotted the Tombstone Territorial Park sign near kilometer 50. A quick photo stop was clearly in order.
The Dempster Highway goes right through Tombstone Territorial Park. Lupe had never been here before. As she continued N into the park, the scenery was rapidly becoming more and more stunning. Wow, this looked promising! Only September 4th, but fall colors were already evident. Even though the sky was overcast, everything was so beautiful!
The Dempster Highway wound along the W side of the North Klondike River valley. Around each bend were more magnificent sights.
The highway was gaining elevation. Tree line isn’t very high in Tombstone Territorial Park. Forests were soon confined only to valleys and lower mountain slopes. Higher up, bright yellows, oranges, and reds of the tundra were splashed across the dark gray exposed rock of the steep mountain slopes. The overall effect gave the Oligvie Mountains a most striking and distinctive appearance.
As Lupe passed the Tombstone Interpretive Centre at kilometer 71.5, the Dempster Highway began climbing much more aggressively. The sense that the Carolina Dog was approaching something truly fabulous just ahead was strong.
The highway angled NW along a steep slope. The North Klondike River, which was now W of the highway, could be seen curving away toward a side valley. Such a glorious view! Had to stop for this!
SPHP had stopped a little too soon to get the best view of the long valley the North Klondike River originates from. Lupe and SPHP hopped back in the G6, went a bit farther and higher, and stopped again. Incredible! Lupe could now see much more. The Carolina Dog could even see the iconic symbol of Tombstone Provincial Park. At the far end of the long valley stood Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.)!
(Note: To see topo maps after clicking on any mountain link in this post, switch from CalTopo to MyTopo at upper L on the Google dynamic map.)
Though distant Tombstone Mountain grabbed and held the attention, other beautiful mountains were much closer by.
As beautiful as these scenes were, Lupe had farther to go. When SPHP was finally able to turn away from the glorious sights right here, it was back into the G6. The Dempster Highway turned NE continuing higher, then quickly began to level out. The highway curved gradually back to the NNW, and went over a broad level saddle.
Loopster had reached North Fork Pass, the high point of the Dempster Highway in Tombstone Territorial Park. N of the pass, Lupe entered a wide valley which was part of the East Blackstone River drainage. The highway descended slowly along the E side of this valley.
The Oligvie Mountains weren’t quite as rugged here as back near the viewpoint where Lupe had just seen Tombstone Mountain. Even so, this area had an impressively stark aspect to it. Scarcely a tree was in sight. The Dempster Highway passed a kilometer E of a small lake. Loop and SPHP left the G6 here, walking a bit back up the highway experiencing an incredible sense of remoteness.
Lupe and SPHP continued N from North Fork Pass. Somewhere, still 15 or 20 km ahead, was Lupe’s peakbagging objective for the day, Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.). The highway crossed over to the W side of the East Blackstone River. SPHP started watching for a microwave tower to the W, which doubles as the trailhead for Surfbird Mountain.
The highway again passed E of a small lake. The road was much closer to this second lake. Although the microwave tower hadn’t appeared yet, SPHP stopped so Lupe could sniff around.
The turn W (L) on the side road leading to the microwave tower was supposed to be near kilometer 98.5, but SPHP had written down the wrong number. A microwave tower did come into view shortly after Lupe left the second small lake, however. That had to be it, so SPHP made the turn and drove a couple km up the side road to the tower.
Not a soul was around, which was a good thing, since there wasn’t a lot of extra space to park here where the G6 wouldn’t block access to the tower in the event a service vehicle happened along. There was plenty of room for just the G6, though.
12:58 PM, 50°F at the microwave tower near km 98.5 of the Dempster Highway – The overcast sky was a bit discouraging, but the weather didn’t seem threatening at the moment. Having just had a bite to eat, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was ready to set off for Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.). Surfbird was supposed to be a really easy climb, so if the weather would hold out, Looper should get there.
Lines of tall bushes coming down the ridge W of the microwave tower marked drainages where there might be really wet ground, or even streams. No sense getting wet feet right off, if it could be avoided. To avoid these drainages, Lupe and SPHP set off going W straight up the slope.
The tundra was spongy and damp everywhere. For SPHP’s sake, Lupe did manage to avoid the wettest areas. She went all the way up to the top of the ridge W of the microwave tower. The ridge was very broad. Lupe now had a clear view of Surfbird Mountain’s summit. So easy! This climb was going to be nothing more than a stroll up a big hill. Avoiding drainages and boggy areas was all there was to it.
Instead of going directly toward the summit, Looper headed S toward a closer high point.
A steady climb up the long slope brought Lupe to a big flat area on top of the next ridge. Total elevation gain to the summit of Surfbird Mountain is about 1,500 feet from the microwave tower. Lupe had already gained close to 1,300 feet, so most of the work was done. The ground was nice and dry up here. Looper was perfectly happy curling up and relaxing, while SPHP admired the already magnificent views.
When SPHP was ready to move on, Lupe led the way heading SW from the flat area. She lost elevation going down a dip in the broad ridge, but not any great amount. The summit of Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.) was in view beyond the dip. Lupe headed for a closer high point first.
Most of Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.) is a wide ridge. Toward the W end, the absolute summit is a narrow hill superimposed upon the main ridge. That hill wasn’t far away at all now. Lupe left the high point heading W right to it. At the top of the hill, she found a short, stony ridgeline running E/W.
Even though Surfbird Mountain was an easy climb, the views were tremendous!
Off to the W, another hill even higher than Surfbird Mountain was only a mile or so away. Lupe might easily have gone over there, but didn’t for 2 reasons.
First of all, the weather was questionable. The sky had been completely overcast all day. The situation wasn’t improving, either. Toward the S horizon, it now looked like rain or fog. A chilly S wind was sweeping over Surfbird Mountain, potentially driving the precipitation this way. SPHP didn’t relish the notion of getting drenched at some point.
Secondly, Lupe’s right rear paw was bothering her. She was occasionally hopping on 3 legs again. Making Looper go any farther on a sore paw wasn’t a kind thing to ask her to do. That just wouldn’t be right.
No worries. Surfbird Mountain was a great place to be! Might as well enjoy the awesome scenes from right here. Instead of pushing on, Lupe and SPHP spent an entire hour at Surfbird’s summit. Most of this time was spent N of and below the rocky crest to avoid the wind.
The whole sky was a sullen gray. The world stretched away to the N all brown and drab. It felt, it looked, like late November back home. What an amazing place, though! Lonely and quiet, the vast emptiness of the hills, ridges, valleys, and peaks of the Yukon’s Oligvie Range extended as far as the American Dingo could see.
Lupe sat huddled partially inside SPHP’s jacket. Watching, waiting. Nothing moved. The only sound, the swirling breeze. Sublime.
SPHP wanted to keep an eye on the weather. Every now and then, Lupe braved the cold wind, climbing the few feet necessary to get back on top of the mountain. The situation to the S never seemed to change much. Looper could linger a while longer.
Lupe’s incredible, wonderful hour at the top of Surfbird Mountain came and went. The Carolina Dog left her hiding spot, returning once more to the summit.
On the way back, Lupe varied her route somewhat. When she reached the big flat area on the second ridge, she went all the way out to its far E end. Here she had a great view of the East Blackstone River valley, and a prominent thumb of rock nearby to the N.
The return trip was a blast! So easy, with spectacular views the entire way! The weather never did deteriorate. Lupe didn’t get rained on. She had a great time roaming the gorgeous tundra. To avoid wet, tussocky areas, the Carolina Dog did have to circle back around to the W again somewhat before turning N.
Lupe returned to the G6 coming down off that same first W ridge she’d climbed on the way up. (6:32 PM, 50°F) She’d had such a grand time roaming, running, and sniffing on the way back, that she’d overdone it. Loop was frequently hopping along on 3 paws now. Worrisome. SPHP slathered more antibiotic cream on the raw area between her pads.
Surfbird Mountain was as far N as Lupe was going in Tombstone Park. Her experience today was so phenomenal, and the Oligvie Mountains had made such an impression, that the Carolina Dog was going to get to stick around a while longer. Another great adventure tomorrow! That paw better heal up!
SPHP drove back to the Dempster Highway and turned S. Before long, a pullout appeared on the E side of the road. It proved to be a two-tier pullout. No one at either place. The lower area was nice and secluded – big, flat, and surrounded by tall bushes. A stream ran along the SE side, flowing into a hidden pond. The pond was only a foot deep. Air bubbles streamed up from the bottom all over the place.
Lupe loved this spot! She enthusiastically explored the forest of bushes along the stream and pond. This would do for sure!
By late evening, the sky showed hopeful signs. Pink clouds glowed off to the NW over by Surfbird Mountain. Oh, yeah! Blue skies would really bring out the spectacular fall colors. Loop and SPHP crashed for the night thinking positive thoughts for the morrow. (9:15 PM, 50°F)
Links:
Goldensides, Ogilvie Range, Tombstone Territorial Park, Yukon Territory, Canada (9-5-17)
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I love this blog! I recently moved to the Yukon and have been to several of these places 🙂 I have yet to see Tombstone in Autumn, but totally looking forward to it. Your pictures are stunning. Lupe is an adventurous dog!
The tundra is extraordinary everywhere in the far N in autumn! Try Tombstone in early September. Moving to the Yukon is a bit on the adventurous side, too! Bet you’re loving it! Thanks for reading, and your kind words.