Surfbird Mountain – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Day 36 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

9:00 AM, 54°F, at a pullout near Kilometer 20 of the Dempster Highway – Ugh! So late! Lupe was wide awake, staring out of the G6. She probably had been for a long time. 54°F! No wonder SPHP had slept so well. Comfortably warm for once, instead of the usual Yukon chill. Lupe eagerly dashed out of the G6 as soon as she got the chance, disappearing into the woods nearby.

Cheese and English muffins for breakfast. Loop returned for that. Her right rear paw seemed OK now. Yesterday evening she had been hopping around on 3 legs shortly after getting here. A raw spot in between her pads seemed to be the problem. She must have gotten cut stepping on something sharp. Maybe the antibiotic ointment SPHP applied had actually helped?

As soon as breakfast was over, Lupe and SPHP hit the road traveling N on the Dempster Highway. Loop spotted the Tombstone Territorial Park sign near kilometer 50. A quick photo stop was clearly in order.

Lupe reaches **Tombstone Territorial Park** near kilometer 50 of the Dempster Highway.

The Dempster Highway goes right through Tombstone Territorial Park. Lupe had never been here before. As she continued N into the park, the scenery was rapidly becoming more and more stunning. Wow, this looked promising! Only September 4th, but fall colors were already evident. Even though the sky was overcast, everything was so beautiful!

Lupe stands on the Dempster Highway in **Tombstone Territorial Park** close to where the big mountains start. Fall colors were already here.

Even on an overcast day, the **Oligvie Mountains** were serving up some spectacular scenery. Photo looks NE.

The Dempster Highway wound along the W side of the North Klondike River valley. Around each bend were more magnificent sights.

The Dempster Highway winds up the North Klondike River valley. Photo looks NNE.

The highway was gaining elevation. Tree line isn’t very high in Tombstone Territorial Park. Forests were soon confined only to valleys and lower mountain slopes. Higher up, bright yellows, oranges, and reds of the tundra were splashed across the dark gray exposed rock of the steep mountain slopes. The overall effect gave the Oligvie Mountains a most striking and distinctive appearance.

The higher mountains of the **Oligvie Range** were almost entirely above tree line. Bright colors of the tundra vegetation clinging to the dark rocky slopes gave the mountains a strikingly beautiful and distinctive appearance. Photo looks NE.

As Lupe passed the Tombstone Interpretive Centre at kilometer 71.5, the Dempster Highway began climbing much more aggressively. The sense that the Carolina Dog was approaching something truly fabulous just ahead was strong.

The highway angled NW along a steep slope. The North Klondike River, which was now W of the highway, could be seen curving away toward a side valley. Such a glorious view! Had to stop for this!

Several km N of the interpretive centre, Lupe stopped along the Dempster Highway for this grand view of the **North Klondike River**. Photo looks SW.

The Tombstone Interpretive Centre is way down in the valley almost straight up from Lupe. Photo looks SSE down the **North Klondike River valley**.

Another look at the **North Klondike River** from the same spot. The colors turned out more vivid in this photo, and give a much better idea how brilliantly colored everything appeared. Unfortunately, the overcast sky had a tendency to make photos look washed out. Photo looks SW.

SPHP had stopped a little too soon to get the best view of the long valley the North Klondike River originates from. Lupe and SPHP hopped back in the G6, went a bit farther and higher, and stopped again. Incredible! Lupe could now see much more. The Carolina Dog could even see the iconic symbol of Tombstone Provincial Park. At the far end of the long valley stood Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.)!

(Note: To see topo maps after clicking on any mountain link in this post, switch from CalTopo to MyTopo at upper L on the Google dynamic map.)

From a slightly higher vantage point, Lupe could see much farther up the long North Klondike River valley. **Tombstone Mountain (7,192 ft.)** (Center) juts up at the far end. Photo looks SW.

**Tombstone Mountain** (R) with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SW.

A broader, but sadly washed out look at **Tombstone Mountain**. Photo looks SW.

Though distant Tombstone Mountain grabbed and held the attention, other beautiful mountains were much closer by.

Looking S at some of the gorgeous nearby peaks.

A river of gold pours down **North Fork Mountain (6,000 ft.)** (L). Photo looks NW.

As beautiful as these scenes were, Lupe had farther to go. When SPHP was finally able to turn away from the glorious sights right here, it was back into the G6. The Dempster Highway turned NE continuing higher, then quickly began to level out. The highway curved gradually back to the NNW, and went over a broad level saddle.

Loopster had reached North Fork Pass, the high point of the Dempster Highway in Tombstone Territorial Park. N of the pass, Lupe entered a wide valley which was part of the East Blackstone River drainage. The highway descended slowly along the E side of this valley.

The Oligvie Mountains weren’t quite as rugged here as back near the viewpoint where Lupe had just seen Tombstone Mountain. Even so, this area had an impressively stark aspect to it. Scarcely a tree was in sight. The Dempster Highway passed a kilometer E of a small lake. Loop and SPHP left the G6 here, walking a bit back up the highway experiencing an incredible sense of remoteness.

Lupe in the **North Fork Pass** region. The small lake is part of the **East Blackstone River drainage**. Photo looks W.

A closer look with help from the telephoto lens.

N of North Fork Pass bushes grew in profusion, but scarcely a tree was in sight. The **East Blackstone River valley** and the surrounding **Oligvie Mountains** exuded a stark, remote feel. Photo looks NW.

Loop on the Dempster Highway on her way back to the G6 (R). SPHP didn’t realize it yet, but her peakbagging objective, **Surfbird Mountain** (the high point of the distant ridge on the R) was already in sight. Photo looks NW.

Lupe and SPHP continued N from North Fork Pass. Somewhere, still 15 or 20 km ahead, was Lupe’s peakbagging objective for the day, Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.). The highway crossed over to the W side of the East Blackstone River. SPHP started watching for a microwave tower to the W, which doubles as the trailhead for Surfbird Mountain.

The highway again passed E of a small lake. The road was much closer to this second lake. Although the microwave tower hadn’t appeared yet, SPHP stopped so Lupe could sniff around.

Lupe near another small lake in the East Blackstone River valley. Photo looks W.

SPHP still didn’t realize it, but at this second small lake Lupe was getting very close to Surfbird Mountain. In fact, **Surfbird Mountain** is the ridge seen beyond the lake. The summit Looper would be heading to is on the L. Photo looks NW.

The turn W (L) on the side road leading to the microwave tower was supposed to be near kilometer 98.5, but SPHP had written down the wrong number. A microwave tower did come into view shortly after Lupe left the second small lake, however. That had to be it, so SPHP made the turn and drove a couple km up the side road to the tower.

Not a soul was around, which was a good thing, since there wasn’t a lot of extra space to park here where the G6 wouldn’t block access to the tower in the event a service vehicle happened along. There was plenty of room for just the G6, though.

Parked at the microwave tower a couple kilometers W of the Dempster Highway. The turn is near km 98.5. Photo looks ESE.

12:58 PM, 50°F at the microwave tower near km 98.5 of the Dempster Highway – The overcast sky was a bit discouraging, but the weather didn’t seem threatening at the moment. Having just had a bite to eat, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was ready to set off for Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.). Surfbird was supposed to be a really easy climb, so if the weather would hold out, Looper should get there.

Lines of tall bushes coming down the ridge W of the microwave tower marked drainages where there might be really wet ground, or even streams. No sense getting wet feet right off, if it could be avoided. To avoid these drainages, Lupe and SPHP set off going W straight up the slope.

Looper ready to set off for **Surfbird Mountain**. The E end of Surfbird Mountain is seen beyond her. Instead of heading directly for the mountain, Loop would go W (R) from here to gain the top of a ridge in order to avoid the wet drainage areas where tall bushes flourished. Photo looks S.

Partway up the first slope, still climbing toward the ridge out of sight on the R (W). Photo looks S.

The tundra was spongy and damp everywhere. For SPHP’s sake, Lupe did manage to avoid the wettest areas. She went all the way up to the top of the ridge W of the microwave tower. The ridge was very broad. Lupe now had a clear view of Surfbird Mountain’s summit. So easy! This climb was going to be nothing more than a stroll up a big hill. Avoiding drainages and boggy areas was all there was to it.

Instead of going directly toward the summit, Looper headed S toward a closer high point.

Up on the first ridge W of the microwave tower, Loopster has a clear view of Surfbird Mountain’s summit (R) ahead. Instead of going directly to it, she proceeded toward the high point seen beyond her (L) first. Photo looks S.

The remote, natural beauty of the Oligvie Mountains surrounded Lupe on an enormous scale. Beauty was present on a tiny scale, too, in the form of countless exquisite little tundra plants beneath her paws.

A steady climb up the long slope brought Lupe to a big flat area on top of the next ridge. Total elevation gain to the summit of Surfbird Mountain is about 1,500 feet from the microwave tower. Lupe had already gained close to 1,300 feet, so most of the work was done. The ground was nice and dry up here. Looper was perfectly happy curling up and relaxing, while SPHP admired the already magnificent views.

Loop stands along the N edge of the long slope she had just climbed. The Dempster Highway is in view below. **Two Moose Lake** is in the distance on the L. Photo looks NE.

Loopster takes a Dingo nap up on the big flat area. The summit of Surfbird Mountain is the hill seen beyond her. The high peak on the R is **Blackstone Mountain (6,900 ft.)**. **Mount Auston (6,500 ft.)** is at Center. Photo looks SW.

Looking NW toward light gray mountains of the **Patrol Range**.

View to the N. The microwave tower where the G6 is parked is seen below at Center.

When SPHP was ready to move on, Lupe led the way heading SW from the flat area. She lost elevation going down a dip in the broad ridge, but not any great amount. The summit of Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.) was in view beyond the dip. Lupe headed for a closer high point first.

Lupe in the dip in the broad ridge. The Dempster Highway is in the distance at Center. The first small lake Lupe had seen near North Fork Pass is on the R. **Angelcomb Peak (6,300 ft.)** is seen straight up from Lupe. Photo looks SE.

Crossing the dip in the broad ridge. Surfbird Mountain’s summit is the hill on the R. Loop is on her way to the closer high point on the L first. Photo looks SW.

Up on the last high point before the summit. The second lake Lupe had stopped by on the way here is on the R. Photo looks SE.

Most of Surfbird Mountain (5,300 ft.) is a wide ridge. Toward the W end, the absolute summit is a narrow hill superimposed upon the main ridge. That hill wasn’t far away at all now. Lupe left the high point heading W right to it. At the top of the hill, she found a short, stony ridgeline running E/W.

Lupe heads for the narrow hill where the summit of **Surfbird Mountain** is located. Photo looks WNW.

Loop reaches the summit! **Mount Auston** (L) and **Blackstone Mountain** (Center) are beyond her. Photo looks SW.

Lupe sits at the **true summit of Surfbird Mountain**. A chilly S breeze was blowing from behind her. **Blackstone Mountain** on the R. Photo looks SW.

Even though Surfbird Mountain was an easy climb, the views were tremendous!

Same view with help from the telephoto lens.

Looking WSW up the **Wildhorse Creek valley** (L) toward **Blackstone Mountain** and **Mount Auston**.

The **East Blackstone River** and Dempster Highway are both visible down by the second lake Lupe dropped by on the way here. **Angelcomb Peak (6,300 ft.)** is in view beyond the lake. Photo looks SE.

Both of the lakes Lupe stopped by can be seen in this photo. The first one is far away on the R. **Angelcomb Peak** is the pointy peak in view well beyond the closer lake. The near ridge on the R is the E end of **Rake Mountain**. Photo looks SE.

Off to the W, another hill even higher than Surfbird Mountain was only a mile or so away. Lupe might easily have gone over there, but didn’t for 2 reasons.

First of all, the weather was questionable. The sky had been completely overcast all day. The situation wasn’t improving, either. Toward the S horizon, it now looked like rain or fog. A chilly S wind was sweeping over Surfbird Mountain, potentially driving the precipitation this way. SPHP didn’t relish the notion of getting drenched at some point.

Secondly, Lupe’s right rear paw was bothering her. She was occasionally hopping on 3 legs again. Making Looper go any farther on a sore paw wasn’t a kind thing to ask her to do. That just wouldn’t be right.

No worries. Surfbird Mountain was a great place to be! Might as well enjoy the awesome scenes from right here. Instead of pushing on, Lupe and SPHP spent an entire hour at Surfbird’s summit. Most of this time was spent N of and below the rocky crest to avoid the wind.

The whole sky was a sullen gray. The world stretched away to the N all brown and drab. It felt, it looked, like late November back home. What an amazing place, though! Lonely and quiet, the vast emptiness of the hills, ridges, valleys, and peaks of the Yukon’s Oligvie Range extended as far as the American Dingo could see.

Lupe sat huddled partially inside SPHP’s jacket. Watching, waiting. Nothing moved. The only sound, the swirling breeze. Sublime.

Watching the world from Surfbird Mountain on a somber, gray day. Photo looks W.

While the vast scene to the N looked brown and drab, nearby objects revealed intricate colors and patterns.

SPHP wanted to keep an eye on the weather. Every now and then, Lupe braved the cold wind, climbing the few feet necessary to get back on top of the mountain. The situation to the S never seemed to change much. Looper could linger a while longer.

Lupe and SPHP spent a lot of time on the grassy spot below the rock Loop is perched on. Photo looks ENE.

*Stay right there, Loopster! That’s a great rock you’re on. I want to get a dramatic Dingo shot. ….. Well, hurry it up then, SPHP! This wind is annoying.*

*How does this look? Dramatic enough for you? …. Oh, pretty good, Loop. A little bright blue sky wouldn’t hurt a thing, but seems to be in mighty short supply today.*

Lupe’s incredible, wonderful hour at the top of Surfbird Mountain came and went. The Carolina Dog left her hiding spot, returning once more to the summit.

**Mount Auston** (L) and **Blackstone Mountain** (R). Photo looks SW.

The **Wildhorse Creek valley**, **Blackstone Mountain** (Center) and **Mount Auston** (L) from **Surfbird Mountain**. Photo looks SW.

Looking down into **Wildhorse Creek valley**. **Rake Mountain** (Center) is on the other side. Photo looks S.

Well, that’s about it. This is Lupe, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, from atop **Surfbird Mountain** in **Tombstone Territorial Park.** I’ve never been on a mountain this far N in the Yukon Territory before. It’s a mighty fine peak and easy to climb. If you come here, bring some sunshine if you can, but you won’t be disappointed either way!

On the way back, Lupe varied her route somewhat. When she reached the big flat area on the second ridge, she went all the way out to its far E end. Here she had a great view of the East Blackstone River valley, and a prominent thumb of rock nearby to the N.

On the way back to the G6, Lupe went way out to the E end of the lower ridge on the L. Photo looks ENE from the E end of Surfbird Mountain’s little summit ridge.

Looking down on the Dempster Highway from the NE end of Surfbird Mountain. **Two Moose Lake** is the larger lake on the L. **Lone Moose Lake** is on the R. The side road leading to the microwave tower is at lower L. Photo looks NE.

Looking down on the thumb of rock (L) at the NE end of **Surfbird Mountain**. Photo looks NE.

The return trip was a blast! So easy, with spectacular views the entire way! The weather never did deteriorate. Lupe didn’t get rained on. She had a great time roaming the gorgeous tundra. To avoid wet, tussocky areas, the Carolina Dog did have to circle back around to the W again somewhat before turning N.

The return trip was great fun! Remote Oligvie Mountain views like this one the whole way. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

*So gloriously beautiful here! Makes you want to keep going forever, doesn’t it, SPHP? ….. Sure does, Loop! Afraid you’re going to have to rest that paw up, though.*

The tundra jungle from an ant’s viewpoint.

Lupe returned to the G6 coming down off that same first W ridge she’d climbed on the way up. (6:32 PM, 50°F) She’d had such a grand time roaming, running, and sniffing on the way back, that she’d overdone it. Loop was frequently hopping along on 3 paws now. Worrisome. SPHP slathered more antibiotic cream on the raw area between her pads.

Surfbird Mountain was as far N as Lupe was going in Tombstone Park. Her experience today was so phenomenal, and the Oligvie Mountains had made such an impression, that the Carolina Dog was going to get to stick around a while longer. Another great adventure tomorrow! That paw better heal up!

SPHP drove back to the Dempster Highway and turned S. Before long, a pullout appeared on the E side of the road. It proved to be a two-tier pullout. No one at either place. The lower area was nice and secluded – big, flat, and surrounded by tall bushes. A stream ran along the SE side, flowing into a hidden pond. The pond was only a foot deep. Air bubbles streamed up from the bottom all over the place.

Lupe loved this spot! She enthusiastically explored the forest of bushes along the stream and pond. This would do for sure!

By late evening, the sky showed hopeful signs. Pink clouds glowed off to the NW over by Surfbird Mountain. Oh, yeah! Blue skies would really bring out the spectacular fall colors. Loop and SPHP crashed for the night thinking positive thoughts for the morrow. (9:15 PM, 50°F)