Houston – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Yukon Bound! – Getting Nowhere on the Long Road North (8-8-19 to 8-10-19)

Days 4-6 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-8-19, dawn, Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 W of Jasper – Uh-oh. Warning! Dingo triggering event ahead! Not another soul on the road yet, but SPHP had to brake. One of those portable temporary stoplights for road construction had just turned red. Lupe stared in disbelief, her eyes growing big as saucers as she began to realize what she was coming to. Her hackles rose. SPHP completely shut the windows on her side of the G6. Here it comes!

The G6 exploded with noise, as Looper sprang into action. A full-fledged 5 alarm, frothing at the mouth, barking frenzy was underway! The American Dingo bounded up and down, back and forth, whacking her head against the windshield, nose smearing against the side window, decibel level as high and shrill as she could possibly maintain it.

Egads! Turn green for pity sake! The stoplight remained a stubborn cherry red. 15 feet outside Lupe’s window a magnificent bull elk looked up momentarily. What was all that racket? Whatever it was all about, the elk decided it didn’t concern him, and went back to casually munching whatever it was he was munching.

A mile later, sides still heaving, Lupe gasped.

What is the matter with you, SPHP? It takes a thermonuclear device to get your attention! An enormous giant deer was frozen in place right there outside the G6! Easy pickings! We could have been feasting on fresh, warm, bloody venison right now! Don’t tell me you didn’t see it!

Oh, I saw it alright, beyond a brown and white blur! How could I not see it with you about to bust a gut for 10 solid minutes? I thought that light would never turn green. We are in a Canadian National Park, Loop. I’m reasonably certain park officials would frown upon us devouring a freshly killed elk right next to the highway. Besides, what makes you think it would be that easy? That giant deer must have outweighed you 50 to 1!

You would have helped me, wouldn’t you, SPHP?

Of course. I could use a few years free room and board courtesy of the Canadian government. Shudder to think what might become of you, though, Loop.

Tangle Ridge had been a grand success yesterday, but over 3,800 feet of elevation gain had taken a toll. The giant deer frenzy must have sucked up whatever energy the Carolina Dog had recovered overnight. Yukon bound, the day turned into a relaxing road trip. Serenity returned as Loopster took to snoozing on her pink blankie.

That didn’t mean there couldn’t be a few stops at favorite places. Still needed to stretch now and then to keep the blood circulating.

**Overlander Falls**, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia.

**Rearguard Falls**, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, British Columbia

**Rearguard Falls** on the **Fraser River**.

Exploring near the **Goat River** rest stop.

The whole day got spent cruising NW on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16, all of it in British Columbia after crossing the border from Alberta early on. Shortly before reaching Fort Fraser, a tall plume of black smoke came into view on Lupe’s side of the highway. Traffic was backed up ahead.

Turned out to be a badly burnt out vehicle. Spontaneous combustion? Didn’t seem to be the result of a collision. By the time Lupe went by, the fire department had already put out the fire.

Sure hope the ole’ G6 doesn’t get any ideas, SPHP!

Yeah, that’ll be us someday, Looper. We’re bailing, though, at the first sign of trouble. If you ever sniff smoke, let me know right away.

Like that would help! I’m not expecting any rapid response miracles out of you, SPHP, after that giant deer episode.

Well, warn me anyway. I’m likely to be more excitable, if the G6 threatens to burst into flames.

At the **Dry Williams Lake** rest stop. A year ago forest fires had rained ash on the G6 here.

By late afternoon, Lupe was at Steelhead Park in Houston. Small, but exquisitely maintained. Sniffing the fragrant blossoms of all the colorful flowers was pure delight! Looper paid homage to the Dingo god, too.

**Steelhead Park** in Houston is always such a lovely break!

*So why doesn’t our yard look like this, SPHP? … Something to do with a brown thumb, Loop!*

8-8-19, 5:45 PM, Smithers, British Columbia – The long drive was over for now. Lupe reached Smithers near the Babine Mountains with sufficient daylight remaining to explore the town. She visited the Bulkley River, then took a stroll down Main Street looking for the Sausage Factory. A year ago she had met the former owners, Fred and Teresa Reitsma, at Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon River. They’d been on their way to Dawson City.

Fred and Teresa had invited Lupe to drop by the Sausage Factory, if she ever got to Smithers again. Now she was here, but too late! The Sausage Factory was closed for the day. Too bad. It looked like a ritzy place! The product line was of considerable interest to a famished American Dingo, too. Maybe Loop could return tomorrow?

By the **Bulkley River** in Smithers, British Columbia.

Outside the **Sausage Factory**, 1107 Main Street in Smithers, British Columbia.

*We’ll go in tomorrow, right, SPHP? … With any luck, Looper!*

Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) was on the agenda tomorrow, a super prominent (5,000 ft.+) peak W of Smithers. Lupe wouldn’t be able to get to the true summit, which was a technical climb. The S summit wasn’t much lower, though, and was supposed to be accessible by a route that continued higher from Crater Lake.

By sunset, Lupe was at the Crater Lake trailhead, high on Hudson Bay Mountain’s S flank. A gorgeous evening! Things were looking good!

**Hudson Bay Mountain** (L) from **Astlais Mountain** exactly one year earlier on 8-8-18.

8-9-19, 6:58 AM, Hudson Bay Mountain, near the Crater Lake trailhead – The Carolina Dog sniffed aimlessly around the G6. Fog and mist. Hardly an inspiring start to the day. It was what it was. Reality rules. No point in this. Oh, well.

Down in Smithers a short while later, it was just an overcast day. Only the upper half of Hudson Bay Mountain was shrouded in clouds, but that was the half Lupe had hoped to visit. Some sort of front must have moved in overnight, nothing too dramatic, but enough to be a spoiler. Kind of a shame. Hudson Bay Mountain wasn’t the only candidate on Lupe’s list in this region.

However, didn’t seem to be much sense in waiting around. The Yukon was still a long way. Somewhere skies were blue! Without even waiting for the Sausage Factory to open, Lupe was on her way again.

20 minutes W of Smithers, SPHP drove into rain. 20 minutes W of Seeley Lake, the long drive on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 finally came to an end. Lupe was on her way N on Cassiar Hwy No. 37! The Alaska Highway in Yukon Territory was now only 724 km (450 miles) away. The rain stopped 40 km later. At 60 km, a patch of blue sky was seen ahead.

The weather improved as the G6 sped N. The scenery was gorgeous! Big lakes, mountains, and rivers, but Lupe seldom got a break from being cooped up. This was really wild territory, with hardly a trail anywhere as far as SPHP knew. Daunting. The only significant stop Lupe made was at the Stikine River, a favorite spot known to harbor squirrels in the forest near the riverbank.

Lunch break at the **Bell 1 rest stop** 117 km N of Meziadin Junction.

At the **Stikine River**, looking upstream toward the Cassiar Hwy bridge.

Looking downstream. The Grand Canyon of the Stikine starts not far from here.

8-9-19, 7:15 PM, Beaver Dam rest stop along Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Only 75 km left to the Alaska Highway, but enough was enough. After a bite to eat, having spent practically the entire day on the road, Lupe finally got to do some exploring. N of the rest stop a dirt road curved slowly NW into the forest. Maybe it would lead to the beaver dam? None was in sight at the rest stop.

A gentle 0.33 mile uphill stroll led to a bit of a drop into a little valley. No beaver dam. So far, SPHP had found only mosquitoes. Lupe was doing better. A couple of squirrels had come to her attention, and now to her enormous satisfaction, she came across a succession of mud puddles covering the entire road. The American Dingo plopped herself right down in each one, clearly enjoying lapping up murky mineral water, and that oh, so wild and natural feeling one gets from being absolutely filthy.

Upon getting back to the Cassiar Hwy, SPHP picked as much trash out of the ditches as could be carried back to the rest stop for proper disposal.

We’re doing something wrong, Loop, when a load of trash, and a dingy Dingo are the highlight of the day!

8-10-19, 35ºF at the forest fire pond along Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Chilly out, but at least the sky was blue! By the forest fire pond Lupe squinted into the brilliant glare of the morning sun. Going to be a great day! Another one on the road again, though. Lupe had already made a few tracks. This pond was what, a mere 30 km from the Yukon?

In the early morning sunlight by the forest fire pond.

8:08 AM, 39ºF, Yukon border, Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Two days of pent-up energy could be contained no longer. The were-puppy attacked as soon as SPHP stepped out of the G6. Leaping, growling, nipping, tugging, tearing – all the usual were-puppy tactics.

You know, were-puppy, you are at least part of the reason I’m always in tatters!

Oh, you love it, SPHP! It’s all in good fun!

For some of us. I notice you don’t ever come away turning yellow and green and purple and blue.

Sorry ’bout that. Now and then I get carried away.

Apology accepted, provided you let go of my pants without ripping them any further. How about a romp in the woods along the Yukon border? Might be a squirrel out there somewhere!

A romp and a squirrel sounded good. After visiting the Yukon border sign, Lupe dashed off into the forest. A squirrel did materialize, making SPHP look like a genius.

Made it! At the **Yukon Territory border**!

Burning off some steam early on was a good thing. 2 km N of the Yukon border Cassiar Hwy No. 37 came to an end. SPHP turned W (L) onto the Alaska Highway. Hours slipped by, the only significant stop being a now traditional one at Teslin Lake.

**Teslin Lake** – a traditional Lupe stop along the Alaska Highway.

By **Teslin Lake**. **Dawson Peaks** (R). Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

By early afternoon, Lupe had left the Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner, and was on her way back into British Columbia heading S on Hwy 7 to Atlin. A lunch stop was made on a bluff overlooking the N end of Atlin Lake and Mount Minto (6,913 ft.).

**Atlin Lake** and **Mount Minto** (R) from a bluff Lupe discovered in 2018. Photo looks S.

Atlin Lake is long and narrow. It was still quite a way to the town of Atlin on its E shore. Shortly before Loopster got there, SPHP spotted a couple of float planes on Como Lake, a small lake W of Hwy 7. Might be fun to go take a look. The American Dingo was all for it!

Checking out the float planes at **Como Lake**.

*Oh, this does look like fun! We could go soaring over the mountains!*

None of the stops today had been terribly long. By mid-afternoon, Lupe was back in Atlin again! A year ago, she’d had a terrific time climbing Monarch Mountain SE of town.

At the Atlin marina, with **Monarch Mountain** in the background. Photo looks SE.

Being back in Atlin was exciting! Lupe went to the waterfront to see the gorgeous lake and the Tarahne, a century old excursion boat which had once upon a time brought tourists to Atlin.

*Oh, it’s wonderful to be back at fabulous **Atlin Lake** again! And with big plans, too!*

By the **Tarahne**, which decades ago had brought tourists to Atlin.

Off to the SW was the reason Lupe was here. Across Atlin Lake near the far W shore was a large island. Teresa Island was dominated by a single massive mountain which occupied virtually the entire island. In 2018, Lupe had seen Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.), not only from Atlin, but also from Monarch Mountain (4,728 ft.).

**Birch Mountain**, the whole reason Lupe had returned to Atlin. Photo looks SW.

For the past year, SPHP couldn’t help thinking that Birch Mountain had looked climbable from the N. Why, Lupe could do that! From the top there ought to be a fantastic view of the Llewellyn Glacier, which the Carolina Dog had glimpsed on the far horizon from Monarch Mountain. Birch Mountain had a peculiarity, too, which added to its overall appeal. With 1,393 meters (4,570 ft.) of prominence, Birch Mountain was the 2nd most prominent lake island in the entire world!

Until Lupe had run across Birch Mountain, it had never occurred to SPHP that she might be capable of summiting the 2nd best of any class of mountain in the whole world, yet here was an opportunity to do so in this remote NW corner of British Columbia, an area Lupe had been close to on her summer Dingo Vacations these past 3 years. The whole notion was so enticing!

Beyond the usual weather considerations, 2 significant problems needed to be addressed. First, how to get over to Teresa Island? Second, how to get above tree line? The lower portions of the island looked densely forested. Was there a trail? If not, was the forest open enough to simply amble up through it without too much difficulty? If Looper could get above tree line, the upper regions of the mountain appeared to be quite manageable. SPHP was confident she could reach the summit.

Time to get some answers! Across the street from the waterfront was a hotel. SPHP went in to see what might be learned, while Lupe waited in the G6. Hotel personnel directed SPHP to the Atlin Historical Society a few blocks away. The Historical Society turned out to be a museum. Inside, a couple of old ladies were busy answering tourist’s questions.

So what did you find out, SPHP?

Nothing yet, Loop. Didn’t even talk to them. Might be wrong, but I doubt they know anything at all about getting to Teresa Island or climbing Birch Mountain in there.

What now, then?

I think there was a sign when we came into town about kayak rentals. Not going to take on Atlin Lake in a kayak, but maybe they rent motor boats, too? Let’s go have a look.

Sure enough, there was a sign. Glacier View Cabins, canoe and kayak rentals, 12 km on Warm Bay Road.

Glacier View Cabins seemed worth checking out.

Driving S on Warm Bay Road, SPHP saw no sign of Glacier View Cabins. After going an extra 2 miles, SPHP turned around. On the way back N, there it was! A sign was near a steep driveway on the E side of the road, away from Atlin Lake. SPHP drove up only as far as the first couple of cabins before parking the G6. Lupe hopped out.

Nobody seemed to be around. Lupe and SPHP trudged farther up the steep driveway. At the upper end, a home sat perched on a slope with a fabulous view of Atlin Lake and the Llewellyn Glacier. SPHP rang the doorbell. No answer. Knocking and ringing again didn’t help. On the verge of giving up, Lupe and SPHP were still standing next to the door, when suddenly a man appeared carrying a basket of laundry.

Peter Sidler and his wife, Edith, who wasn’t home at the moment, own and operate Glacier View Cabins. Originally from Switzerland, Peter had been a resident of Atlin for the past 37 years. Although busy, he invited Lupe and SPHP into his home.

Peter had canoes and kayaks available for rent, but said Atlin Lake was too big and dangerous to cross over to Teresa Island in such craft. He also had a motor boat that would have worked, but it was rented out for the next 2 days. The following 2 days it was committed to participation in a search and rescue class.

Peter did share some good information. Over the years, he had climbed Birch Mountain multiple times. There were no trails on Teresa Island, and Peter was skeptical of SPHP’s proposed route from the N. He’d never tried that, but expected the willows would make it tough to get through the forest.

The best route was from the SE, where a major rock slide gets down to within 200 meters of the shore. Staying on the rocks made the climb much easier. Peter had once gone up the NW side of the mountain, but that was more difficult. Yes, Birch Mountain could be climbed in a single day, but it would be a long, hard one.

Although Peter couldn’t get Lupe to Teresa Island in the next few days, he knew who might be able to help. No regular water taxi services were available in Atlin, but Archie Wiggins had tremendous experience in the area and ran charter services with his large boat. Gary Hill might also have a suitable boat available. A call to Mr. Wiggins went unanswered. Probably out on the water with clients.

Armed with phone numbers and instructions on how to find both Wiggins and Hill, Lupe and SPHP departed after thanking Peter for all his help. Returning to Atlin, Lupe dropped by Wiggins’ house, but no one was there. At the Hill household, Gary’s wife, Bobbi, was out in the yard. She was friendly and summoned Gary. Again no luck. Gary’s boat was rented out, and wouldn’t be available for a whole week. He had no other options for Lupe.

That left Archie Wiggins, Lupe’s last and best bet. After dinner, Loop and SPHP returned to his house in Atlin. A vehicle was there now, but knocking on the door and walking around back produced no response. Hmm. Suddenly the front door opened. Barefoot and in an old T-shirt, Archie Wiggins strode out of the house. Peter and Bobbi had both called Archie leaving messages on Lupe’s behalf. So what did SPHP want?

Passage across Atlin Lake both to and from Teresa Island.

Wiggins and his boat were available tomorrow, but his response was surprising.

Don’t really know much about Birch Mountain. We don’t get much call for it. People seldom want to hike Birch. Usually they helicopter over there. Most people I deal with want to go either to Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) where there’s a trail, or Cathedral Mountain (6,965 ft.). Cathedral is a gorgeous mountain, a premier destination.

Not familiar with Cathedral. What does it cost to go there? Really came for Birch. Are you willing to take us to Teresa Island?

Are you alone? Just you and the dog?

Yes.

For drop off and pickup, it’s $1,000 to Cathedral. Really a wonderful trip, and a fabulous peak. To Birch, $175. That’s just to the NE shore. More if you want to be dropped off somewhere else.

$175?

Do you have inReach?

I suppose maybe we ought to, but no. I don’t.

We get a lot of intrepid individuals up here, who’ve done some amazing things. My customers know what they’re doing and come prepared. I’m not going to be responsible for anyone who’s going to put themselves in a situation.

With that, without waiting for a response, Archie Wiggins turned and went back into his house. The door banged shut behind him.

That went well.

Dingo feathers! I totally blew it, Looper! The moment he quoted $175 for Teresa Island, I should have asked him what time we could start in the morning. I only hesitated because I was wondering if I ought to ask him about going to the SE side of the island to the rock slide Peter mentioned. Could have done that once we were already on board crossing the lake. He would have been thrilled to charge us more, if we didn’t like the looks of the NE shore.

He still might have asked you about inReach.

Maybe, but maybe not, too. We might well have been on our way! It would have worked out. Wiggins knows what he’s doing, and he was our last and best chance. Can’t believe I let it all fall apart like that.

Too late now. Why don’t we take the helicopter, SPHP? That would be amazing!

That’s right! He did say most people helicopter to Birch.

Discovery Helicopters was close to where Hwy 7 reached Atlin. Right away SPHP ran into Matt, a young, professional helicopter pilot.

Birch Mountain? No problem. Alone? That’s too bad. Price is the same for up to 4 people. We fly you up to an upper ridge. Still a nice hike to the summit from there. Spectacular views! Just tell us what time you want us to meet you again for pickup back at the ridge. Too late in the day to go now, but we can get you there as early as you like in the morning.

Price? Well, 10 minutes flight time one way. Two round trip flights. That’s 40 minutes. Gotta figure some time for loading and unloading. $1,000 will do it. If someone else wants to fly beyond Birch about the same time, we could save you something on that, but don’t think we have anyone lined up at the moment. Drop in again in the morning, if you want to go. We’ll see if that’s changed, and work out the details. We’ll get Lupe up there!

SPHP thanked Matt and returned to the G6.

Are we really going in a helicopter, SPHP?

It’s a great deal with 4 paying passengers. $250.00 each, Canadian. Lucky American Dingoes get a nice discount at the current exchange rate. How are those royalties on your blog doing? Rolling in the dough by now, I hope?

Business has been, umm, steady, SPHP.

Still nothing, aye?

Zippo.

Any book advances or movie rights in play?

The agents just mutter something about “extremely limited market”. By the way, what does “infinitesimal” mean?

In this context, Loopster, it means “Ain’t gonna happen.” How about those endorsements? Anything happening there?

I haven’t really endorsed anything except playing in the mountains and T-bone steaks.

No ad revenue, either, I don’t suppose.

There might be, eventually, if we ever come up with an ad.

I see. Well, doubt I can rustle up 3 additional paying passengers in the next few hours. Atlin is a small place. Probably doesn’t make sense to hang out at the marina tomorrow trying to buy a random ride from some boater to Teresa Island, either, since we’ll actually need to get back, too.

No helicopter ride?

At $250, yes. Absolutely. What an experience! Not at $1,000. We can get more bang for our buck at another mountain. To tell you the truth, I’m sort of used to free, other than our normal travel expenses.

And that was that. Lupe’s Birch Mountain dreams had gone up in smoke. The Carolina Dog left Atlin heading back N on Hwy 7. Sundown found her at a little rest stop along the E shore of Atlin Lake. The lake was almost mirror smooth. The evening so calm, and a little sad.

6 days into what was meant to be Lupe’s grandest Dingo Vacation of 2019, Tangle Ridge had been her only major peakbagging success. Failure at Hudson Bay Mountain. Failure at Birch. She’d traveled the long road N to the Yukon, and wasn’t far from it now, yet it seemed the Carolina Dog was getting nowhere fast.

SPHP might be concerned, but Lupe wasn’t. Tomorrow was another day.

**Birch Mountain** from the E shore of **Atlin Lake**, British Columbia, Canada 8-10-19

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Monarch Mountain near Atlin, British Columbia, Canada (8-12-18)

The Crocus Trail to Pine Creek Falls, Atlin, British Columbia, Canada (8-11-18)

Glacier View Cabins (Peter Sidler)

Discovery Helicopters

Archie Wiggins (Atlin Lake boat charters) PH: 250-651-7542

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls, Overlander Falls & Rearguard Falls in the Canadian Rockies (8-3-16 & 8-4-16)

Day 5 (Part 2) & Day 6 of Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

After an overcast, drippy morning, Lupe’s excursions to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier and Wilcox Pass had turned out great! The weather had gradually cleared up as the day went on. At mid-afternoon, as Lupe and SPHP headed N on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 looking for the next adventure, sunny blue skies prevailed.

Why not go take a look at Sunwapta Falls? These mighty falls contain the meltwaters of the Athabasca Glacier, which Lupe had just visited.

Well, one reason not to was that the Sunwapta Falls parking lot was packed. It took a while for a parking spot to open up. Lupe and SPHP went to see Sunwapta Falls along with the rest of the teeming throng. No doubt about it, Sunwapta Falls was gorgeous. A huge torrent of water plunged into a deep narrow gorge the Sunwapta River has carved over eons right through the rock.

Sunwapta Falls. This is upper Sunwapta Falls located near the parking lot. A trail leads downstream to a series of 3 more waterfalls in quick succession collectively known as lower Sunwapta Falls.

The bridge across the Sunwapta River below the falls was loaded with people. More tourists lined the chain link fences along the edges of the gorge. Lupe was lost and confused in the crowd. Once before, Lupe had taken a trail to lower Sunwapta Falls, a series of three more waterfalls in close succession downstream. The lower falls were equally impressive and worthwhile.

It wasn’t all that far to lower Sunwapta Falls. Unfortunately, today that was probably a disadvantage. The lower falls would likely be pretty busy, too. Not nearly as crowded as the upper falls, perhaps, but still busy. Lupe would have more fun somewhere else. Fortunately, Lupe and SPHP’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park wasn’t that far away. Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6, and continued N.

Maybe Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park is only intended for use by locals? It’s right off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, about 5 or 6 miles S of Athabasca Falls, but there is no sign for it anywhere along the highway. The picnic ground features only a handful of picnic tables situated right up on the E bank overlooking the Athabasca River. Across the giant river are beautiful peaks of the Canadian Rockies.

When Lupe and SPHP arrived, the picnic ground was empty. Simply fantastic! Lupe rushed down to cool off in the meltwater swollen Athabasca River. She searched for squirrels in the forest, and found a few, too! Lupe and SPHP played Dingo games. No one came. Lupe was free to be herself. The American Dingo was having a blast!

Lupe shakes herself off after cooling down in the Athabasca River.

Happy times - looking for squirrels. — Happy times – looking for squirrels.

Found one! There's a squirrel in this tree! — Found one! There’s a squirrel in this tree!

Glacial meltwater tastes great when your barker gets dry!

In the Athabasca River next to her favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. Photo looks upstream (S).

View across the Athabasca River from Lupe’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. Not too shabby, aye?

When early evening arrived, it was time to leave the picnic ground to go take a look at Athabasca Falls. There were still people around this very popular and impressive waterfall, but a big majority of the usual daytime crowds had by now departed. A tremendous torrent of the combined Sunwapta and Athabasca Rivers roared over the falls.

Lupe at Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park, Canada.

Mighty Athabasca Falls is located just off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. The falls are reached via a turn onto Highway 93A.

Short trails and bridges lead to viewpoints on both sides of Athabasca Falls, and even down to a viewpoint in the gorge below. Lupe explored them all.

The frothy Athabasca River churns through the narrow gorge below the falls.

After visiting Athabasca Falls, Lupe and SPHP continued N to the tourist and railroad town of Jasper. Lupe didn’t stay in Jasper long, though. Soon Lupe and SPHP were heading NW on Yellowhead Highway No. 16 toward British Columbia. It was a beautiful evening for a drive through the Canadian Rockies, but had been another long day, too. As SPHP drove, the weary American Dingo snoozed on her pile of blankets and pillows.

In Mount Robson Provincial Park, SPHP stopped the G6 at a long pullout near Yellowhead Lake. The lake was hidden by trees. Lupe and SPHP got out to take a look. A trail led through the forest and down a very steep bank to reach the shore of the lake.

Lupe by the shore of scenic Yellowhead Lake in Mount Robson Provincial Park. Photo looks SW.

Yellowhead Lake was gorgeous, but unfortunately, there was no trail along the shore. After a few minutes spent down by the lake admiring the view, Lupe and SPHP scrambled back up the steep bank. The dense forest blocked any view of the lake. Lupe’s last brief adventure of the day was spent sniffing around in the woods near Yellowhead Lake.

Lupe and SPHP drove on, but it was getting late. The long Canadian twilight was fading. Day was done. Time to stop for the night.

The next morning, Mount Fitzwilliam was in view, tall and impressive in the early light.

Mt. Fitzwilliam looked very tall and impressive in the early morning light on 8-4-16. Photo looks ESE.

However, Lupe and SPHP were already beyond Mt. Fitzwilliam. Lupe wasn’t going back. Today was a special day. Today Lupe was going N, hundreds of miles farther N than she had ever been before! Most of the day would be spent traveling, but not too far ahead were two more big Canadian waterfalls Lupe could visit along the way. The first was Overlander Falls.

Overlander Falls on the Fraser River is in Mount Robson Provincial Park, within walking distance of the park headquarters. SPHP parked the G6 at a trailhead along Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. A sign at the trailhead displayed a simple map of the area.

This simple map was posted at the trailhead E of the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters.

Lupe was starting from the E end of the trail system, very close to Overlander Falls. A wide, well-worn path led into the forest from the highway. At first, the path lost elevation gradually, but as the roar of the falls grew louder, the trail started switchbacking down a steep slope.

In only 10 minutes, Lupe was at Overlander Falls. The falls weren’t high at all, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.

Overlander Falls wasn't high, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below. — Overlander Falls wasn’t high, but a tremendous volume of beautiful icy blue green water spilled over the brink into a vast swirling pool below.

Overlander Falls is one of two significant waterfalls on the Fraser River. The other one is Rearguard Falls farther downstream.

A plaque near the falls told the story of how Overlander Falls got its name.

This plaque at the falls relates the history of how Overlander Falls got its name.

The cool mist from Overlander Falls felt good!

Since most of Lupe’s day was going to be spent traveling in the G6, the 1.6 km Overlander Falls trail along the Fraser River to the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters was an appealing option. No one was around yet, and the trail would provide a peaceful, secluded path through the forest along the scenic blue green river. Lupe could get some exercise, and SPHP would enjoy the views. Lupe was most definitely in favor of the idea!

The Fraser River below Overlander Falls.

As it turned out, the Overlander Falls trail did not stay down near the river. Instead, it paralleled the river mostly 40 to 80 feet above it on the forested slope. The Fraser River was only occasionally in view. The trail was in good condition, but didn’t look like it sees an awful lot of use, perhaps because there are trails to more dramatic destinations nearby. (See Lupe’s fabulous hike to Mount Robson and Berg Lake in 2013 on the Berg Lake Trail!)

The Overlander Falls trail was fairly level most of the time, and an easy hike. It passed Hogan’s camp, established way back when the railroad was being built. The Carolina Dog was not too impressed. Hogan’s camp now amounts to nothing more than a few rotting logs. However, Lupe did enjoy sniffing and exploring in the forest along the trail. She found a few squirrels to bark at, which made her day.

Lupe at one of the few viewpoints above the Fraser River along the Overlander Falls Trail.

Fraser River from the Overlander Falls trail.

At the W end of the Overlander Falls trail, Lupe came to a road at a bridge across the Fraser River. There was no trailhead at this end, just a small sign near the bridge pointing out the trail. Downstream from the bridge was a bend in the Fraser River. Lupe and SPHP went down to the river’s edge so Lupe could get a drink.

Lupe along the Fraser River. The Overlander Falls trail heads upstream from the N side of the bridge seen over the river. A small sign on the upstream side of the road at the start of the bridge is the only indication of the trail’s presence. Photo looks upstream.

After the American Dingo had her drink from the Fraser River, Lupe and SPHP took the road another 0.25 km to the Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters on the N side of Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. Unfortunately, the sky had been clouding up. The summit of Mt. Robson was hidden from view.

Lupe made it to Mount Robson Provincial Park headquarters, but sadly the summit of Mount Robson (behind the visitor center) was hidden in the clouds.

Lupe and SPHP returned to the Overlander Falls trail. On the way back to the G6, tragedy struck. Excited by a squirrel, while leaping around in the thick underbrush, Lupe got her right front dewclaw got hooked on something. Her dewclaw snapped completely off! It was painful and bled a little, but not much. The wounded Carolina Dog looked to SPHP for help.

Lupe returns to the Overlander Falls trail.

Lupe in pain with a snapped off right front dewclaw looks to SPHP for help. This photo is typical of the Overlander Falls trail as it went through the deep forest near the Fraser River.

SPHP examined Lupe’s paw, kissed the terrible wound many times, and gave Lupe lots of attention. When that didn’t cure it, SPHP carried Lupe along the trail.

Naturally, her right front paw hurt where the dewclaw had snapped off right at the base. Lupe was certain she couldn’t go on. Until she could. After 15 minutes of being carted around like a sack of potatoes, at Hogan’s camp Lupe decided she could manage on her own just fine. Back at the G6, Dr. SPHP applied anti-biotic ointment and a bandage (9:55 AM).

Lupe recuperating in the G6 with her right front paw with the snapped off dewclaw all bandaged up.

Lupe’s adventures (and misadventures) at Overlander Falls were complete. Time to get back on the road again (10:12 AM), but only for a short stretch. Lupe had very little chance to recuperate before reaching the trailhead for Rearguard Falls. She did fine anyway.

This sign at the Rearguard Falls trailhead told of the end of the salmon’s struggle here in their quest to swim up the Fraser River.

The trail to Rearguard Falls wasn’t very long. Lupe soon came to an elaborate system of walkways with metal railings near the falls. Like Overlander Falls, Rearguard Falls wasn’t all that high. Rearguard Falls was almost more like a cascade. It was still impressive and very beautiful. Lupe and SPHP stayed at Rearguard Falls for close to an hour.

Rearguard Falls on the Fraser River. Rearguard Falls is downstream from Overlander Falls.

Lupe on the boardwalks leading to Rearguard Falls.

Rearguard Falls in Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Lupe probably would have liked to soak her painful dewclaw wound in the cold waters of Rearguard Falls.

Part of the reason Lupe was at Rearguard Falls so long was that other people kept coming and going. Some of them had very fancy cameras they set up on tripods. At the closest viewpoint next to the falls, several photographers set up their tripods in succession, each one occupying the coveted spot continuously for 15 or 20 minutes.

It didn’t matter to Lupe or SPHP how long they took. The stunningly beautiful river, the hypnotic roar of the falls both soothing and powerful, the mountain scenery, and perfect weather made Rearguard Falls a great place to be. Waiting for a turn at the closest viewpoint, SPHP chatted with people, while Lupe relaxed or enjoyed being admired and petted by friendly tourists.

One lady was here with her husband (who was busy with his camera and tripod at the coveted spot) and two sons. They were from the Netherlands. She said they had saved money for 10 years to come to Canada. Eventually they were going to sail up the inland passage on the Pacific Ocean near the end of their trip. They loved Canada, and were having a fabulous time!

Finally, it was Lupe’s turn at the closest spot to Rearguard Falls. Two photos, a final lingering look, and Lupe’s time at Rearguard Falls was over (11:31 AM).

Lupe at the coveted spot closest to Rearguard Falls.

Lupe and SPHP spent nearly all the rest of the day traveling on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16. Both Lupe and SPHP were farther N than they had ever been before. Lupe was entering a whole new world!

NW of the junction with Hwy 5, traffic on Hwy 16 greatly diminished. Almost everyone else had turned S on Hwy 5 heading for Kamloops. Lupe was in a valley miles wide, with a wall of high mountains on each side. Nearly all the land was forested, but at first there were some farms and fields near the highway, too. Haystacks were abundant, but curiously, not livestock. Lupe watched diligently for a long time, but saw only one herd of cows to bark at.

After a while, the farms and fields disappeared. On both sides of the valley, the high mountains were getting progressively smaller and more distant. Unbroken forest stretched in every direction as far the eye could see. Despite being in what appeared to be a complete wilderness, no wildlife was seen except for ravens picking at roadkill.

With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe’s eyelids began to droop. Soon she was snoozing, as the countless miles of endless forest went by. To SPHP, it was all increasingly magical, to be here, at last, with Lupe in a wilderness that stretched ahead for not only hundreds, but literally thousands of miles, heading toward the unknown.

With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe drifted off to a peaceful sleep on her way to more adventures as the miles flew by. Maybe her snooze wasn't all peaceful? While in Dingo Dreamland, sometimes her lips and paws twitched. — With no cows or horses to bark at, and no wildlife to hold her attention, Lupe drifted off to a peaceful sleep on her way to more adventures as the miles flew by. Maybe her snooze wasn’t all peaceful? While in Dingo Dreamland, sometimes her lips and paws twitched.

Granted, what lay ahead wasn’t completely unknown. SPHP had maps and descriptions, had seen photos online, and had a general plan for Lupe’s 2016 Dingo Vacation adventures. All that was helpful, necessary and informative to a degree, but only scratched the surface of the possibilities and realities in this gigantic new territory Lupe was traveling through. And all the preparations weren’t the same as finally being here, actually seeing it all for the very first time.

The mountains were gone, replaced by distant blue ridges, by the time Lupe neared Prince George. Lupe woke up as the G6 slowed entering the city. Prince George turned out to be a lively and attractive city situated along the scenic Fraser River. It was the only large town Lupe would see in all of British Columbia. SPHP made a couple of stops for gas and groceries.

As Hwy 16 headed WNW from Prince George, farms and fields appeared again, carved out of the seemingly limitless forest. To Lupe, the open fields meant cows and horses. This time the Carolina Dog wasn’t disappointed. Although most of the fields were full of haystacks and bales, Lupe did see lots of cows and horses. She got plenty of most satisfying barking in. Now and then she had to stop long enough to slurp up water to wet her poor overworked parched barker.

At a rest stop near Cluculz Lake, Lupe and SPHP devoured half of a whole roasted chicken purchased in Prince George, while a rain shower passed over. Between the exciting cows and horses, and tasty roasted chicken, Lupe was very much revived. Back on the road again, she remained awake and watchful.

The long drive was marvelously relaxing. Lush green fields surrounded by dark forests appeared, and subsequently retreated from view. Distant blue ridges defined the horizon. Gray white clouds drifted across a partly sunny blue sky, trailing rain dark streaks of rain behind them. For a long time, the G6 said it was a perfect 71°F out.

The green fields closer to Prince George gradually disappeared, swallowed by the primal forest. Lupe passed through a few small towns of significance – Vanderhoof, Fraser Lake, and Burns Lake. The farther Lupe went, the less traffic remained on the road. The sun was low by the time Lupe reached Houston, a tiny, quiet community near the Bulkley River.

In Houston, right alongside Yellowhead Highway No. 16, was a very beautiful small park with a fountain, manicured lawn, and a profusion of vibrantly colored flowers. Here Lupe and SPHP stopped to stretch their legs and admire Houston’s crown jewel, in the little time remaining while it was all still aglow in the sharply slanting rays of earth’s sinking star.

Lupe reached beautiful Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia near day's end. — Lupe reached beautiful Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia near day’s end.

Steelhead Park was full of a dazzling array of colorful flowers in perfect condition.

It must take an enormous amount of work to keep Steelhead Park looking so immaculately manicured. The entire park was in tip top shape!

Rainbow trout and steelheads are the same species, but live very different lives. Rainbow trout live their lives entirely in fresh water, while steelheads are anadromous, meaning they spend part of their lives in the sea.

And so, for now, we leave American Dingo explorer and adventurer Lupe in the little town of Houston, deep in northern British Columbia, at the end of Day 6 of her super fabulous Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation among the brilliant blossoms of Steelhead Park.