A Canadian Rockies Waterfall Tour on the Long Drive North, Alberta & British Columbia, Canada (7-25-23 & 7-26-23)

Part 2 of Day 3 & Day 4 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-25-23, 4:35 PM, 52ºF, Wilcox campground, Jasper National Park – After closing the side door behind Lupe’s perch, SPHP walked around the RAV4 and hopped into the driver’s seat.

Get all the water we need, SPHP?

Yup.  We’re ready to roll, Looper!

Wilcox Pass was awesome, SPHP!  What’s next?

Mainly the long drive N, Loop.  Need to keep making tracks, if we want to spend as much time as possible in the Yukon & Alaska.  You can look at the scenery or snooze on your pink blanket while I drive.

Not that late.  It’ll still be light out for a long time, SPHP.  Aren’t we going to stop at some of the big Canadian Rockies waterfalls along the way like we usually do?  Doesn’t take very long.  Most of them are practically right along the highway.

Fully intend to, Loopster.  No sense in missing out on your traditional Canadian Rockies waterfall tour.  In fact, we probably won’t go too much farther today.  We’ll concentrate on making tracks tomorrow once we get past Rearguard Falls.

Sounds good, SPHP, but I’ve got a request.  After seeing Tangle Ridge again from up at Wilcox Pass, it reminded me of Tangle Falls.  We usually don’t stop there.  Can we this time?  It isn’t much farther, is it?

Sure!  We can stop at Tangle Falls.  Think it’s only something like 9 km NW of the Icefields Centre.  We’ll be there before you know it, Looper.

7-25-23, 4:48 PM, Icefields Parkway No. 93, Tangle Falls pullout

Careful, Loop!  There’s a ton of traffic.  I better leash you up.

Tangle Falls was already partly in sight right across the highway, but to get a really decent look at it, Lupe would have to cross the road.  Easily done with a little patience, although room was limited along the steep shoulder on the other side.

Tangle Falls, Jasper National Park. Photo looks NE.

Sorry, Loop.  Not enough room here to get you in the picture.  Want to hike up to the base of the lower falls, like we’ve done before?  Can easily get you in there.

Do you even have to ask, SPHP?  Of course!

At the base of Tangle Falls. Photo looks ESE.
The lower falls and crystal clear pool below it. Photo looks SE.

Lupe scrambled around on the rocks at the base of the lower falls amid a fine spray of cool water.  Unfortunately, since Tangle Falls is actually a series of waterfalls instead of a single dramatic plunge, the middle and upper falls weren’t in view from the base of the lowest one.

However, while the American Dingo watched, something happened that she’d never seen before here.

Did you see that, SPHP?  They found a way up!

Sure enough, L (NW) of the lower falls, 2 young people and a black lab had scrambled up to the next level, and were now out of sight.

Let’s try that, too!  C’mon, SPHP!

Caution was required along a near vertical rock wall, but the trickiest part wasn’t all that tall.  A route up with only momentary exposure did exist, and that was all there was to it.  Entirely worth it, too!

The upper Tangle Falls were undisputedly the best.

Upper Tangle Falls. Photo looks E.
The full effect. Photo looks NE.

Clearly this was it as far as being able to go any higher, but just getting to the base of the upper falls was awesome.  Lupe hung around for a little while, enjoying the magnificence of the multiple cascading showers.

So much for making tracks today, though!  Upon returning to the RAV4 at the Tangle Falls pullout, 2 young women approached SPHP asking what direction Lupe was going?  When SPHP said N, that was the wrong way.  They’d done the entire Wilcox Pass trail clear down to Tangle Falls, and needed a ride back to the trailhead at the Wilcox campground.

No worries!  It wasn’t that far back.  SPHP made room for them.  Soon enough, the young ladies were giving Lupe a farewell pat.

Deja vu all over again!  Once again, the Carolina Dog headed N.  This time the RAV4 went right on by Tangle Falls.

7:25-23, 6:20 PM – Even though skies were rather darkly overcast, SPHP had to wait for a parking spot to open up at Sunwapta Falls.  Throngs of people were on the bridge with the best overall views, and many more were right down by the fence near the lip of the mighty roaring torrent.  Lupe had to wait her turn to get to see anything at either place.

Sunwapta Falls from the pawbridge over the gorge. Photo looks ENE.
By the fence near the brink.
The upstream view.

Sunwapta Falls is mighty impressive, SPHP, but I seem to recall a lower falls that isn’t nearly this crowded that we went to once.

That’s right, Loopster.  We went and saw the lower falls during your first ever Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies.  Only about an hour round trip.  Shall we?  It’s quite a waterfall, too, if I remember right.

The American Dingo did want to see lower Sunwapta Falls again, but didn’t get very far before it started to rain.  When persevering another 15 minutes didn’t help, SPHP was done.

Setting off on the trail to lower Sunwapta Falls before the rain set in.

Sorry, Loop.  Just raining harder.  No telling how long it’ll last.  We might as well call it before you’re completely soaked.

7-25-23, 7:50 PM, Athabasca River – Naturally, the rain ended when Lupe got back to the RAV4.  Shucks!  Getting to be about dinner time, anyway.  Instead of another foray along the trail to lower Sunwapta Falls, SPHP had driven N to Lupe’s favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River.

How does chicken and dumplings sound, Looper?

I’m famished, SPHP.  Heat ’em up!

Eagerly awaiting chicken and dumplings by the Athabasca River. Photo looks WSW.

After dinner, Lupe looked for squirrels in the forest.  Didn’t find any, but even merely searching was fun.  SPHP threw a squeaker ball for her to chase until it rolled into a mud puddle.  During occasional rain showers, SPHP worked on the trip journal in the RAV4 while Lupe snoozed or stared out the window.

In late July, even in southern Canada, it stayed light a long time.

Evening along the Athabasca River. Photo looks WNW.

7-26-23, 8:45 AM, 53ºF, Athabasca River – A dangerously daring squirrel had kept Lupe entertained for a couple of hours, and a last romp up and down the river bank was now about over.

A cloudy morning along the Athabasca River. Photo looks S.
Back at the picnic ground. Photo looks NW.

Ready for some more Canadian Rockies waterfalls, Loopster?  Say yes!

Oh, you know I love this place, SPHP, but I suppose we need to hit the road.

Yes, but not for long, Loop.  Our next stop is only 6 or 7 miles N.

7-26-23, 9:00 AM – The parking lot was filling up fast when Lupe arrived at Athabasca Falls.  Swarms of tourists were already milling around at the various viewpoints – another wait your turn situation.

Combining the power of the Sunwapta and Athabasca Rivers, which merge only 2 or 3 miles downstream of Sunwapta Falls, Athabasca Falls was an even mightier torrent.

Athabasca River above the falls (far R). Mount Kerkeslin (L of Center). Photo looks SE.
Near the brink. Photo looks NE.
Mighty Athabasca Falls. Photo looks NE.
A closer look.

Over countless eons, Athabasca Falls carved narrow chutes into the solid rock below the falls.  A path down one abandoned chute led to views of both the gorge currently channeling the flow, and the region below it where the Athabasca River spreads out again.

Athabasca Falls plunges into a narrow gorge. Photo looks ESE.
The current course from above. Photo looks WNW.
Heading down an abandoned chute.
A glimpse of the gorge currently in use. Photo looks SE.
The Athabasca River where it spreads out again below the falls. Photo looks NNW.

Athabasca Falls was it for Jasper National Park.  Lupe would see two more big waterfalls in the Canadian Rockies today, but they were both on the Fraser River in British Columbia, and a bit of a drive now.  After fueling up the RAV4 in Jasper, the American Dingo was free to snooze on her pink blanket while SPHP drove WNW through occasional drizzle on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.

7-26-23, 10:20 AM, 54ºF – The mountains may have been hidden in the clouds, but that wasn’t going to prevent Lupe from enjoying the beauty of Overlander Falls in Mount Robson Provincial Park.  Only 10 minutes on a well-worn path through the forest with a few switchbacks near the end got the Carolina Dog down to a giant, swirling, blue-green pool just below the falls.

Setting out on the Overlander Falls trail.
Overlander Falls in Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia.

Overlander Falls wasn’t very tall, but the Fraser River was already an impressively powerful stream at this point.

Beautiful Overlander Falls.

7-26-23, 10:59 AM, 57ºFRearguard Falls Provincial Park wasn’t much farther.  Rearguard Falls wasn’t even as tall as Overlander Falls, almost just a big rapids, but was definitely worth the short hike on another easy path leading down to it.  The trail ended at a series of boardwalk steps and platforms with railings.  There had been a few people at Overlander Falls, but Lupe had Rearguard Falls all to herself this morning.

Signage up by the highway at the start of the Rearguard Falls trail.
Rearguard Falls from the upper view deck.
An unobstructed view.
Heading down to the lower decks.
On the lower deck right next to the falls.
Rearguard Falls.
An even closer view.

Once Rearguard Falls was in the rearview mirror, this really did become a travel day.  Stops were few and far between.  The American Dingo got to spend a little time at the Phil and Jennie Gaglardi Park in McBride, and also at a favorite rest area currently undergoing renovation along the Goat River, but that was about it until mid-afternoon.

At the Phil & Jennie Gaglardi Park next to the Fraser River in McBride.
By the Goat River.
Beneath the Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 bridge over the Goat River.

Shortly after passing the Ancient Forest, SPHP stopped for a hitchhiker who was trudging along carrying a heavy guitar case.  Lupe met Asheim, who had finished a 3 month stint planting trees for a logging company.  Asheim had been walking for 5 hours, and was deeply grateful for a lift to Prince George.

7-26-23, 4:29 PM, 72ºF – Turned out that Asheim’s ultimate destination was his native, spectacularly mountainous, land of Kashmir, a bit out of the way for the Carolina Dog and SPHP to completely accommodate.  After dropping Asheim off in Prince George, SPHP fueled up the RAV4, then invested in fried chicken and OJ at Save on Foods.

Lupe wasn’t keen on the OJ, but quite happy to munch away on some fried chicken as she hit the road again.

The darkly overcast sky had finally brightened on the way into Prince George, and conditions kept improving during the long drive WNW on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  Brief stops to sniff the air and stretch at the Culculz Lake and Dry Williams Lake rest areas were it for breaks.

7-26-23, 8:44 PM – Crossing the bridge over the Bulkley River, the sun was already near the horizon.  A R turn after the bridge, and SPHP parked the RAV4.

Sweet!  Would have been better if we’d made it here a little sooner, but at least we’ve got 10 minutes before sunset.  C’mon Loopster!

Where are we, SPHP?

Steelhead Park in Houston.  Time to stop and sniff the roses, or whatever they planted this year!

Arriving at Steelhead Park shortly before sunset.

Steelhead Park has been a favorite ever since Lupe’s first visit in 2016.  Back then the park had been at the height of its glory.  The flowers on display were no longer quite as spectacular, and Lupe was disappointed to see that the fountain still hadn’t been repaired yet.  Even so, Steelhead Park was still very beautiful, and this evening’s stroll through it was a perfect way to end the day.

By the sadly still defunct Steelhead Park fountain.
Steelhead Park still boasts some gorgeous flowers, though!
Pansies.
Lilies.
Starbursts.

All too soon, the sun was down and light was fading.

Still a long way to the Yukon Territory and Alaska, but that was OK.  The American Dingo had gotten far enough to be within striking distance of her next great adventure.

At Steelhead Park, Houston, British Columbia, Canada (7-26-23)

Links:

Next Adventure                         Prior Adventure

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Wilcox Pass, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (7-25-23)

Days 1 & 2, and Part 1 of Day 3 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-23-23, 11:30 AM, 82ºF – On her pink blanket atop pillows and various gear, the Carolina Dog was excited!

Ready to roll whenever you are, SPHP!

If I’ve forgotten anything else, we’re just going to have to buy it somewhere along the way.  Show time, sweet puppy!

Turning the key, SPHP backed the RAV4 out of the driveway.  Lupe’s grand and glorious 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska was underway!

Loopster ready to roll!

Stops to sniff the air and stretch were few and far between on this first day.  Lupe kept a nose out for cows and horses, but there didn’t seem to be as many of them this year.  Probably huddled around whatever water or shade they could find.  All through Wyoming, temperatures were in the mid-90’s °F as the RAV4 raced W along I-90.

Montana was an oven!  101ºF when SPHP dashed into Albertson’s in Billings to grab an 8-piece baked chicken deal.  No time to get anything else in there, or the American Dingo would have baked, too, stuck in the RAV4 without the AC on, even with the windows down.

7-23-23, 8:28 PM – At 73ºF, conditions in the Little Belt Mountains were much more tolerable by the time Lupe bounded out of the RAV4 full of enthusiasm.

Kings Hill Pass (7,393 ft.)!  Love it here, SPHP!  Any preference?  Want to climb Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) first?

Sun will be down soon, Loop, so we only have time for one or the other this evening.  How about Kings Hill?  We can do Porphyry in the morning.

Shortly after cutting through the forest up to USFS Road No. 487, thunder rumbled in the distance.  Lightning played among the dark clouds to the S, and a light rain began to fall.

7-23-23, 9:07 PM, 68ºF, Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) – The rain was already over and done with by the time the American Dingo reached the brass survey benchmark near the true summit.  An orange glow was on the WNW horizon, and some of the clouds overhead glittered like gold.

Porphyry Peak (L) from Kings Hill. Photo looks WNW.
By the brass survey benchmark near the true summit. Photo looks NE.

Looks promising!  Maybe there’s going to be a nice sunset, SPHP?

You might be right, Looper.  Let’s go over by the edge to watch the show.

Going a little down the WNW slope, Lupe sat watching the developing display.  The air was cool, fresh, and the clearest it had ever been on any of Lupe’s prior visits to Kings Hill.

The sunset turned out to be the best one ever, too.

Sunset from Kings Hill. Porphyry Peak (L). Photo looks NW.

7-24-23, 7:20 AM, 69ºF – Although this was going to be another travel day, as promised, Lupe got to start the morning with a jaunt up USFS Roads No. 838 & No. 6388 to visit the Showdown ski facilities and fire lookout tower on Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.).

At the base of the Porphyry Peak fire lookout tower. Photo looks E.
The survey benchmark that was in front of Lupe in the previous photo.
Heading over to the Showdown ski lifts. Photo looks ESE.
Fire lookout tower (L), Showdown ski facility (R). Photo looks NW.

The most impressive views were of Big Baldy Mountain, which Lupe had once been to, and Yogo Peak (8,801 ft.).

Big Baldy Mountain (L) and Yogo Peak (R). Photo looks NE.

We ought to visit Yogo Peak, too, SPHP!

Maybe someday, Looper, but not today.  Canada and Alaska, remember?  This is it for your morning constitutional.  C’mon, we need to get back to the RAV4 and make some tracks.

Using one of the ski runs as a bit of a shortcut, Lupe headed down to the roads leading back to Kings Hill Pass.

Leaving Porphyry Peak. Big Baldy Mountain (R of Center), Yogo Peak (far R). Photo looks NNE.
The shortcut back to the USFS roads. Photo looks NW.

Driving out of the Little Belt Mountains, SPHP stopped briefly at the Al Buck Memorial Park so Lupe could get a drink from the spring gushing out of a hillside.  Other than a couple of quick stops for food and fuel, that was it before crossing into Canada at the N end of I-15 at 12:57 PM.

Enjoying a drink from the spring at the Al Buck Memorial Park along Hwy 89.

At midday, even the Canadian border was a scorching 99ºF!  Despite the heat, Lupe left the cool comfort of the RAV4’s AC long enough to pose by the Alberta welcome sign.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returns to Canada!

Another long drive with only occasional brief stops ensued.  By early evening, the Carolina Dog was back in the fabulous Canadian Rockies!

7-24-23, 6:30 PM, 85ºF, Banff –  As usual, beautiful Banff was jam-packed with tourists, and justifiably so.  A couple of changes were evident since Lupe had been here last year.  It was no longer possible to drive along Banff Avenue in the heart of downtown, which was now reserved solely for pawdestrians, and the fancy new upstream pawbridge over the Bow River that had been under construction in 2022 was now complete and open to the public.

Lupe’s evening in Banff began with a stroll along the turquoise blue Bow River.  Famous Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) was in sight as she crossed the new upstream pawbridge, while the downstream bridge offered a great view of the N end of Mount Rundle (9,711 ft.).

Cascade Mountain (Center) beyond the new upstream pawbridge. Photo looks N.
Mount Rundle (Center) from the downstream bridge. Photo looks SE.

Continuing downstream, Lupe visited Bow Falls, which was more like a steep rapids than a vertical waterfall, but awesome nevertheless.  From there, a trail led up to the historic Banff Springs Hotel.

Bow Falls (R). Photo looks NW.
Along the Bow River below the falls. Photo looks E.
The historic Banff Springs Hotel. Photo looks N.

The Carolina Dog’s evening ended with a long-standing Banff tradition – Lupe’s Pretty Puppy Parade up and down both sides of Banff Avenue in the heart of downtown.

Lupe’s one-Dingo Pretty Puppy Parade in the center of Banff.

7-25-23, 6:37 AM, 66ºF – Early sunshine was peeping through the clouds on this breezy, unsettled morning, and Banff was still quiet as Lupe left town.  At least, it was quiet until the Carolina Dog spotted several giant deers.  Nearly tame, they seemed more perplexed than alarmed as they were subjected to ferocious barking emitting from the RAV4.

Guess you told them, didn’t you, Loopster?  A bit rudely, though.

Giant deers are incredibly exciting, SPHP!  Right on the edge of town, too!  A great start to a great day.  Now that we’ve made it to the Canadian Rockies, what’s on the agenda?

Been ages since we’ve seen the Athabasca Glacier from Wilcox Pass.  Thinking we might do that, Looper.  We can stop at a few favorite spots along the way, too, if you like.

Sounds terrific, SPHP!

It was a fine plan.  However, driving W on Hwy 1, the sky soon became very dark.  The mountains turned gray, then vanished amid heavy rain.

Shucks, Loop!  Looks we’re going to miss out on the Canadian Rockies, and get stuck with a rainy day drive.  Sorry!  Nothing I can do about it, though.

Most disappointing!  However, current conditions were deceptive.  By the time the RAV4 reached Lake Louise, the rain was over and blue sky was ahead.

7-25-23, 7:49 AM, 42ºF, Bow Lake picnic area along Icefields Parkway No. 93 – So much for the baking heat of the plains!   SPHP dug a couple more layers of clothing out of the duffle bags, put them on, then accompanied the Carolina Dog down to the lakeshore.  Beyond the rippled surface, a red roof stood out way over along opposite N shore.

Mount Jimmy Simpson (R of Center) beyond Bow Lake. Photo looks NW.

The trail to Bow Glacier Falls and Mount Jimmy Simpson starts over there, remember, SPHP?  That’s the Num-Ti-Jah Lodge!

Of, course!  Awesome times, sweet puppy!  However, they’ve now changed the name from Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, to just the Lodge at Bow Lake.  Easier to remember, I suppose. 

7-25-23, 8:57 AM, – Lupe’s next stop was only a few km farther N.  The L turn off Icefields Parkway No. 93 for the Peyto Lake overlook came at the top of Bow Pass.  Surprisingly, the 0.6 km paved trail to the overlook had been rerouted since the last time the American Dingo was here.  The view deck was new, too, and much larger than it used to be.

Across the deep valley the lake was nestled in, Cauldron Peak (9,580 ft.) towered over the far shore, with Mount Patterson (10,469 ft.) standing like a sentinel along the edge of the Mistaya River valley, where a long line of magnificent mountains stretched off to the N horizon.

At the fancy new Peyto Lake view deck. Mistaya River Valley (R). Photo looks NNW.
Peyto Lake from the end of the deck. Mount Patterson (L). Photo looks NNW.
Peyto Lake with Cauldron Mountain (L), Mount Patterson (Center), Mistaya River Valley (R). Photo looks NNW.

Love how Peyto Lake has such an amazing, milky, turquoise blue color!  Don’t you, SPHP?

Oh, of course!  That’s because it’s a glacier-fed lake, Loopster.  Remember your Search for the Peyto Glacier?  We took a primitive trail down to Peyto Creek from here, and wandered up the valley.

We never did find the Peyto Glacier, SPHP.

Beyond our abilities, Loopster, but we had a great time.  If you look SW up the valley, you can actually see Peyto Peak (9,711 ft.) and part of the Peyto Glacier from right here on the view deck.

Peyto Glacier (Center), Peyto Peak (R). Photo looks SW.
Peyto Glacier (L), Peyto Peak (R), Peyto Creek (far R). Photo looks SW.

Once upon a time, the American Dingo had also taken a shorter trail from here to Bow Summit, a high spot with a gorgeous view of Bow Lake back to the S, although admittedly not as grand as the one from Mount Jimmy Simpson.

However, with Wilcox Pass on the agenda, Lupe didn’t visit Bow Summit again today.  A final quick stop at the Carson Creek picnic ground along the North Saskatchewan River, where SPHP got the pack ready, was it before the main event.

North Saskatchewan River from the Carson Creek picnic ground. Photo looks SE.

7-25-23, 11:04 AM, 48ºF – As Icefields Parkway No. 93 went up and over Sunwapta Pass, the Carolina Dog left Banff National Park behind, and entered Jasper National Park.  Wilcox Creek campground was only 2.5 km farther on the R.  For a change, the severely under-sized Wilcox Pass trailhead near the entrance to the campground wasn’t entirely overrun.  SPHP was lucky enough to grab a vacant parking spot for the RAV4, and Lupe was on her way!

The incredibly popular Wilcox Pass trail began with a short climb into the forest along a broad, smooth path.  Before long, the trail was even wider and covered with a multitude of roots.  After a fairly flat section, the trail began climbing at a good clip, eventually flattening out shortly before leading to a boardwalk with a set of stairs.

Near the start of the Wilcox Pass trail.
Lots of roots!
At the boardwalk.

Beyond the boardwalk, the trail climbed more steeply again.  The first viewpoint came soon after going around a bend NW, but only hinted at the glories yet to come.  An open slope a little farther on revealed much more.  Although the Athabasca Glacier wasn’t in sight yet, Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.), Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.), Snow Dome (11,345 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,483 ft.) were.

Snow Dome (L), Mount Kitchener (R) from the first good viewpoint. Photo looks W.

The Wilcox Pass trail leveled out to some degree as it continued NW through another stretch of forest.  When Lupe reached the next open slope, most of the Athabasca Glacier was in view.

Along the last stretch of dense forest. Photo looks NW.
Athabasca Glacier (L), Snow Dome (Center), Mount Kitchener (R). Photo looks WSW.

Something new was ahead!  Two red chairs faced the already grand view of the glacier flanked by Mount Athabasca and Mount Andromeda on the L, and Snow Dome and Mount Kitchener on the R.  Lupe got up on a platform connecting the chairs, braving a brisk SW breeze.

Red chairs viewpoint. Mount Kitchener (L), Mount Wilcox (far R). Photo looks WNW.
Hilda Peak (far L), Mount Athabasca (Center). Photo looks S.

What a great spot, Loopster!  If one didn’t feel like going any farther, these chairs wouldn’t be a bad place to hang out.  Both Hilda Peak (9,974 ft.) and the top of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) are in sight, in addition to all the big peaks over by the Athabasca Glacier.

Don’t get any ideas, SPHP.  We’re going all the way to Wilcox Pass!

The red chairs were near treeline.  Only scattered stands of increasingly stunted forest and bushes were ahead, as tundra-covered slopes began to dominate.  A relatively flat section of the trail continued a bit farther NW toward a big gully below the Wilcox Pass region, which was now starting to come into view.

Near the gully, the trail veered N, climbing steeply for 200 feet before once again angling NW.  The slope steadily diminished as Lupe entered a rumpled region of low bushes, tundra, and small rock formations.

The flat stretch of trail beyond the red chairs. Mount Wilcox (far L). Wilcox Pass region (Center). Photo looks NW.
Above the steepest stretch. Big gully (L), Mount Wilcox (L of Center). Photo looks NW.
In the rumpled region. Photo looks NW.

The Wilcox Pass trail kept flattening, literally becoming a stroll in the park – Jasper National Park!  By the time Lupe reached the shallow stream that flowed into the gully, most of Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) was in view, and Wilcox Pass wasn’t much farther.

From a rock outcropping capping a small rise near the stream, a huge ridge was in sight beyond Mount Wilcox.

Recognize that ridge, Loop?  You were there since the last time we visited Wilcox Pass.

Hmm.  Not sure, SPHP.  Give me a hint!

Well, it’s possible to continue over Wilcox Pass along this trail and wind up over there, but that’s not how we did it.  Instead we started down by Tangle Falls where the NW end of the Wilcox Pass trail reaches Icefields Parkway No. 93 again.

Tangle Falls!  That’s a great hint, SPHP.  That must be Tangle Ridge!  Oh, that was another great day in the Canadian Rockies!

Indeed it was, Loopster!  Fun to see Tangle Ridge again from here.

Closing in on Wilcox Pass. Mount Wilcox (L). Photo looks NW.
Mount Wilcox (L of Center), Tangle Ridge (R). Photo looks NW.
About to cross the shallow stream. Photo looks NW.
Tangle Ridge (Center) from Wilcox Pass. Photo looks NW.

7-25-23, 12:35 PM, 41ºF – Wilcox Pass was so cold and windy when Lupe arrived, that SPHP dumped the pack then layered up – stocking cap, coat, gloves, the whole bit.  Although the Carolina Dog had seen surprisingly few people thus far, plenty were up here, all dressed like winter was coming while exploring the vast Wilcox Pass region.

Wilcox Pass. Tangle Ridge (L). Photo looks NNW.
Hilda Peak (L), Mount Athabasca (R) from Wilcox Pass. Photo looks S.
Mount Wilcox (Center) from Wilcox Pass. Tangle Ridge (R). Photo looks NW.

A sign said it was 1.4 km to Wilcox Ridge.  As awesome as all the wide open spaces were at Wilcox Pass, the pass was never the Carolina Dog’s ultimate destination.  Wilcox Ridge was where the stupendous view of the Athabasca Glacier was.  Lupe always went there!  Despite the cold wind, coming all the way to Wilcox Pass and not going to Wilcox Ridge would be simply ridiculous.

Wilcox Ridge from Wilcox Pass. Photo looks W.

The spur trail heading W up into the Wilcox Ridge region used to fade away, simply becoming more of a choose-your-own-path route once it turned SW.  However, the trail was now very distinct.  If there was any question at all about it, new cairns held together by wire cages, each bearing a yellow diamond, marked the way.

More than halfway to the Wilcox Ridge viewpoint, Lupe came to a long rock wall serving as a windbreak.  That was new, too.  The Carolina Dog was glad one thing hadn’t changed.  Bighorn mountain sheep still grazed these windswept slopes.

Signage at the Wilcox Pass trail junction.
Hilda Peak (far L), Mount Athabasca (Center) from one of the yellow diamond cairns. Photo looks S.
At the rock wall windbreak. Photo looks SW.
Mountain sheep relaxing on the tundra.

The Wilcox Ridge Trail went over a series of minor ridges and ravines on the way to what appeared to be a more formal viewpoint than Lupe had ever seen here before.  Quite a few people were already present as the American Dingo arrived.  Preferring more solitude, SPHP decided to take a side route farther W, closer to the SE end of the narrow ridge leading up Mount Wilcox before selecting another spot along the SW edge where Lupe could relax on a patch of tundra.

Approaching the Wilcox Ridge Athabasca Glacier viewpoint. Photo looks SW.
Heading a little farther W before taking a break. Mount Wilcox (R). Photo looks W.

7-25-23, 1:36 PM, 43ºF – The 30 mph gale sweeping in from the SW felt really cold at the viewpoint SPHP had chosen.  Fortunately, conditions weren’t nearly as bad while relaxing just a few feet back from the edge.  Facing SW directly into the breeze, Lupe once again enjoyed one of the most magnificent easily accessible views in the Canadian Rockies.

Mount Athabasca (11,414 ft.) and Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) on the L, and Snow Dome (11,345 ft.) and Mount Kitchener (11,483 ft.) on the R, with the Athabasca Glacier between them, flowing down from the almost entirely hidden Columbia Icefield.

Looking S. Mount Athabasca (L), Mount Andromeda (Center), Athabasca Glacier (R).
Mount Andromeda (L), Athabasca Glacier (Center), Snow Dome (R). Photo looks SSW.
Athabasca Glacier (L), Snow Dome (R), Mount Kitchener (R edge). Photo looks SW.

Still a truly incredible scene, SPHP, but there isn’t as much snow and ice as I remember.

Yup.  The Athabasca Glacier is steadily retreating, Loopster.  One day in the not too distant future, it will be but a memory.

That’s a terribly sad thought, SPHP!  This has to be one of my favorite places in the Canadian Rockies, although seeing the Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge, Berg Lake at the base of Mount Robson , Moraine Lake, and Lake Louise all rank way up there, too.

All fabulous choices, Looper.  However, if we were limited to being able to come back to only one spot in the Canadian Rockies ever again, I might well choose Wilcox Pass and this view.  Most spectacular scenic reward for a half day hike there is!

Peering over the edge, Sunwapta Lake, the meltwater pond that used to be at the toe of the glacier once upon a time, and the Icefields Centre, where it’s possible to get tickets to actually ride in a snowcoach up onto the Athabasca Glacier, were in sight 1,400 feet below.  Looking back to the ESE, Sunwapta Pass and Nigel Peak were in view.

Icefields Centre (Center) down by Icefields Parkway No. 93. Sunwapta Lake (R) below the toe of the Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks ESE.
Nigel Peak (L) and Sunwapta Pass (R). Photo looks ESE.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, congratulating the Carolina Dog on her return to this marvelous scene for the first time in nearly 7 years, then shared a chocolate coconut bar with her.

For over an hour, Lupe and SPHP hung out together in the cold breeze, admiring the glory in all directions, chief of which was the splendid panorama of the Athabasca glacier and surrounding mighty peaks.

Mount Andromeda (L), Athabasca Glacier (Center), part of Snow Dome (R). Photo looks SSW.
Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks SSW with help from the telephoto lens.
Happy Lupe with Mount Athabasca (L) and the Athabasca Glacier (R) beyond her. Photo looks S.

Oh, we’ll never get tired of Wilcox Pass and these views of the Athabasca Glacier, will we, SPHP?

Not even if we live to be 100, Loopster!

7-25-23, 2:38 PM – Absent-mindedly, SPHP shook the box, then looking down realized it was empty.

Holy moly, Loop!  I’ve eaten an entire box of Dots sitting here.  Guess I’ll be on a sugar high now!  Sadly, our hour at this splendid perch has flown.  Ready to move on?

Hate to leave, SPHP, but more adventures lie ahead, don’t they?

Gobs of ’em, Looper, a whole Dingo Vacation chock full of them!

A final appreciative look, and Lupe was on her way.

Mount Athabasca (L), Mount Andromeda (Center), Athabasca Glacier (far R).

After leaving her fabulous viewpoint, Lupe explored the region closer to the SE end of Mount Wilcox.  Great fun, but all too quickly, she arrived back at Wilcox Pass.  Still awesome views all around, but just a matter of following the trail back now.

Leaving the Wilcox Ridge viewpoint. Mount Wilcox (Center). Photo looks NW.
Back at Wilcox Pass. Mount Wilcox (L edge), Tangle Ridge (Center). Photo looks NW.

7-25-23, 4:06 PM, 52ºF – Warmer, actually quite pleasant, with scarcely even a breeze, when Lupe leapt back onto her pink blanket in the RAV4 at the Wilcox Pass trailhead.

Wilcox Pass, and lots of beautiful places on the way to it!  My 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska is off to a terrific start, SPHP!

And still time enough for more sight-seeing yet today, Loop.  Hope you’re in the mood for some awesome Canadian Rockies waterfalls, sweet puppy!

I am!  Turn the key, and let’s hit the road N.  Onward!  SPHP, ho!

The Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome & Mount Kitchener from Wilcox Ridge, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada 7-25-23
Lupe’s GPS Track

Links:

Next Adventure                    Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track

Tangle Falls to Tangle Ridge, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-7-19)

Peyto Lake & Lupe’s Search for the Peyto Glacier, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (7-26-13)

Mount Jimmy Simpson, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-6-18)

Bow Glacier Falls, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada (8-2-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.